Legendary French mountaineer, Marc Batard and his team of Nepalese and french climbers have discovered a new route for Everest Expedition. Batard wants to further observe and test this route on his 2022 Spring Everest Expedition (without supplement O2) to see if it is commercially feasible. This alternative new route avoids the most dangerous part of the Nepal side Everest expedition, climbing the Great Khumbu Icefall.
This new route can be started from the village of Gorakshep which is at 5100M and the climbing route falls beneath the Nuptse ridge. The climb starts at an adjacent peak that was unnamed. Batard wanted to pay his homage to his former Sherpa team (Sundari Sherpa), named the peak Sundari Peak 5880M and the route Sundari route. Sundari Sherpa was part of his Everest expedition (1988) member who inspired him to climb Everest and break the speed record of the first ascent in less than 24hrs.
The route then leads to Camp 1 at 6065M, which is above Khumbu Icefall. Batard came up with this new route to find a safer alternative. Avoid the dangers of Khumbu Icefall which is nerve-racking even for experienced climbers. Batard team has fixed new 700M routes with 1000M ropes and 10mm screw blots. The idea is to have via-Ferrata with fixed metal railings, so that Sherpas with a heavy load can use it making it much-much safer compared to the dangerous Khumbu icefall. The team is aiming to fix the remaining 400M to Camp 2 (6400M).
What are your thoughts on this new proposed route which seems much safer, not just for the clients but to Sherpa members too? Please comment below.
We think this is a great alternative and this could even open a possibility for the Autumn Everest expedition. Historically Autumn season is avoided by expedition companies to avoid the dangers of avalanches that come falling from the hanging serac above the icefall.
Even if the Autumn season is not possible, this will give Sherpa’s working in Everest/Lhotse expedition an extra layer of safety when working in the mountains. We wish Batard and his team very best wishes and a safe summit during their 2022 (without supplement O2) expeditions.
God's speed and success. Live Your Story.
Namas Adventure team