VISUAL JOURNEY OF AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION

Ama Dablam's expedition is one of the most thrilling climbs in the Khumbu region. Ama Dablam's view dominates the view during Everest trekking routes. Not only is the climb beautiful and challenging but also physically/mentally demanding. Land in the buzzing historic city of Kathmandu following then to the famous Lukla airport your expedition begins. Your trek follows through the same trail of the iconic Everest base camp trek. The route then splits from the Pangboche village (4529M) to the Ama Dablam base camp 4529M and into the mountain.

Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of Ama Dablam 6810M.

Everest trail and Ama Dablam on the right, Everest/Lhotse on the right background

Dingboche. Island Peak far-left background and Ama Dablam on the right.

Island Peak 6189M. Acclimatization training peak.

Island Peak (Imja-Tse) is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine/fitness PD/2. Our team utilizes Island Peak 6189M or Lobuche East 6119M for training/acclimatization peak before climbing Ama Dablam. The climb in these peaks is an accomplishment on its own and an experience to climb another 6000M peak in the Khumbu region.

Island Peak 6189M

Island Peak, Ridge traverse leading to Summit 6189M

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

This will be climbers home for 12-14 days. This will be a full fledge camp with kitchen/dining tent, resting camp where the rest of the crew will be there to support the expeditions.

Camp 1 (5800M)

The route to camp 1 is mostly traversing on rocky boulders, a somewhat loose and exposed ridge that is mostly dry during the autumn season and mixed with ice and snow during the spring season. Camp 1, can accommodate about 10 - 12 tents, which are set on the slopes of the rocky boulders and overcrowding can be an issue when all the teams are planning their final summit bid at the same time. The journey from base camp to camp 1 takes about 5 - 6 hours.

Camp 2, 6200M “Yellow Tower”

Images by Jackson Groves / Journey Era

The duration from camp 1 to camp 2 takes about 4-5 hours. As soon as climbers start off their journey from camp 1 the climb begins through clipping on a fixed-line.

The route is on the steep ridge, exposed on both sides. The routes on the way to camp 2 are stable. After traversing on the boulders and snow the final challenge for the day arrives at the yellow tower. The daunting “Yellow tower” is a straight 80 - 90 degrees vertical wall. Climbing with all the loads can be quite a challenge. So climbers need to be on their game on this part of the climb. Yellow tower climb can be graded at 6a rock climbing grade.

Camp 2 can only house about 7 to 8 tents so during the busy season it is hard to find the ideal spot and when overcrowded other makeshift camps have to be set up on the edges. This camp is not for the faint-hearted climbers but views from camp 2 are just out of this world.

Climbing the Mushroom ridge to Camp 3 (Situational)

The mushroom ridge traverse is one of the most challenging parts of climbing up to camp 3 and when descending down after summit bid. Rock falls can occur if climbers are ahead and climbers will have to traverse through a couloir on thier way to camp 3. This is the final technical section before reaching camp 3 or the summit.

Route to Ama Dablam Camp 3 (6400M)

Camp 3 depends a lot on the condition of snow and ice in the mountain. (Most likely to be set up during spring season than autumn.) The route goes from the back of the tower. Very exposed section and again depending on the season climbers will have to traverse on ice or granite slabs. Rockfalls can occur when there are lots of other climbing teams ahead. Some have even reported rocks the size of a football (soccer). The climb up is 70-80 degrees vertical and upon traversing climbers will reach the uncompromising mushroom ridge.

Lots of new and old fixed ropes can be found on this section. When climbing in the dark make sure to clip onto the right fixed line. Traversing through another super steep couloir on the ridge and steadily heading up climbers will arrive at camp 3 area. By this point, you will already have climbed for 5 hours. Nowadays, most teams do not stop at camp 3 and head straight to the summit. Arriving just beneath the pyramid the summit lies above the Dablam slopes.

Summit 6810M

Summit of Ama Dablam is a broad plateau. An amazing feat to undertake and the achievement of a lifetime. On a clear day Mt. Everest, Lhotse Shar, Baruntse, Makalu, Cholatse, Taboche, and surrounding Himalayan peaks are visible.

AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION

ama dablam expedition

Are you planning the Ama Dablam expedition as your next big mountaineering adventure? We have departures every year (spring/autumn). For more information on our Ama Dablam expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

Visual Journey of Ama Dablam Expedition - Namas Adventure