Baruntse expedition

2024/25 Baruntse Peak 7129M / Mera peak 6476m Expedition

31-35 DAYS | *Return via 🚁 helicopter bc to Lukla

EQUIPMENT RENTALS AVAILABLE (LINK)

GRADING (Alpine/Fitness): AD+/4 (click for more grading info)

✅ DEPARTURE: 7th October - 10th November (ONLY 4 SPOTS)

BONUS - ADDITIONAL 2 ROUTE FIXING MEMBERS WITH THE TEAM

BOOK BY 7TH AUGUST 2024

BOOK NOW

Cost . . .

31 days via Amphu Lhbasta pass return via Helicopter

$11,250

35 days via Mera Peak 6476M return via Helicopter

$11,500 P/P

Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD

Deposit required: $1000 p/p

All-inclusive. Guaranteed departure. No extra hidden costs.

2024 Bartunse Departures . . .

Autumn 2024

31 Days via Amphu Lhbatsa pass 5860M : 11th October - 10th November (2 SPOTS)

35 Days via Mera peak 6476M: 7th October - 10th November (2 SPOTS)

(Bookings for autumn 2024 closes on September 20th)

"Minimum 4 members required for the expedition to run"

Baruntse 14 Days+ Express . . .

14 - 18 Days

Cost: $27,000 USD

Note - Minimum of 10 week of hypoxic training mandatory

Mountain cleaning Project 2023 - 2025 . . .

"Let's get the shit out". Baruntse Base camp cleaning project from 2023 - 2025. More details below in the description.

Summit records by Namas Adventure team . . .

2022 Autumn season, Namas Sherpa Guide members were the first team to fix the fixed line rope to the summit paving way for Namas client members and other teams to safely climb and access summit of Baruntse. Baruntse summit was finally possible to everyone after 5 unsucccessful season.


WHAT'S INCLUDED ...

  • IFMGA or NMA certified Guide leader

  • Mera Peak 6476M on 35-Day Itinerary

  • Helicopter flight back to Lukla from Baruntse BC after returning to BC.

  • Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

  • 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (At Baruntse only, 1:2 Ratio at Mera Peak)

  • Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )

  • Supplemental Oxygen cylinder for emergency use only (Personal O2 system can be arranged at $550 P/P with 1 bottle and 1 regulator system)

  • 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

  • All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

  • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

  • Solo tent at BC, and 2 person tent at higher camps

  • 40 kgs personal weight (Extra additional weight, clients will need to hire an additional porter. Estimated $1000 USD for 27-28 days)

  • Meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options, etc)

  • Burners and expedition equipment

  • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone

  • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

  • LOdge accommodation during the trek

  • Porters per guest

  • Arrival pick-up and departure

  • Internal flights

  • Basic First aid kit

  • Welcome or Farewell leave Dinner

WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED ...

  • Visas and travel insurance

  • Summit Bonus ($800 per member)

  • Entertainment and food (Kathmandu)

  • Bottled drinks and beverages

  • Evacuation (will be done in your account)

  • Single supplement Charges

  • Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions

  • Optional trips

  • Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

  • Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon

  • International flights to Kathmandu

INQUIRY FORM

EXPEDITION OVERVIEW

Baruntse Peak climbing is one of the best accessible peaks climb to achieve at the 7000M level. Mount Baruntse is located between Mount Everest (8848M), Lhotse (8516M), and Makalu (8463M) with other Himalayan peaks stretching on either side. This mountain offers a chance to gain valuable experience and skills that can be applied to higher peaks. Prior experience in alpine/mountain climbing is required for this expedition, and we will carefully verify any such experience before accepting applicants. This is to ensure that all team members are well-equipped to handle the challenges of the climb.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one or more): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua (Similar semi-technical 6000M peaks or higher)

There is no denying the beauty of climbing this 7000M giant, but it is by no means an easy feat. With a difficulty rating of AD+, the climbing route includes technical climbs and glacier routes that will test your skills and endurance. Despite its challenges, this mountain will provide the necessary experience to prepare you for climbing 7500-8000 meter peaks in the future, should that be your goal. The South-East Ridge of Mount Baruntse is known for its steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff around 7000 meters, making it a somewhat difficult climb. As a result, we recommend the more accessible and popular South Ridge to climb to the summit.

Our expedition consists of two camps: Camp 1, located just after West Col at an altitude of 6,100m, and Camp 2 on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. The Baruntse Peak expedition itinerary also includes a few days' treks into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region.

History: Baruntse was first climbed on 30 May 1954, via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Guide/Client ratio: Our expedition maintains a 1:1 guide-client ratio for the Baruntse climb. However, for Mera Peak, the ratio is 1:2. In Baruntse in certain specific situations, such as when fixing summit ropes, the expedition leader may make adjustments, and some members may temporarily shift to a 1:2 ratio during rotations or summit push.

2023 - 2025 Clean up project . . .

It is disheartening to see the pollution and waste left behind by expedition members in the pristine places of the Himalayas. While we often focus on the beauty of the mountains and the inspiration of great climbs, we often forget about the negative impacts that we can have on these environments. Cans, glass bottles, plastics, and other forms of waste can be found scattered throughout the base camps, left to accumulate and degrade the natural beauty of the area. If not properly managed, the situation will only continue to worsen. The Baruntse base camp has been a home for our team members, but we must acknowledge our role in contributing to this issue and take steps to minimize our impact on the mountain. We have been running expeditions on this peak since 2021, and it is our responsibility to ensure that we leave it in a better state than we found it.

How do your bookings help us on this project?

As of the 2023 expedition season (autumn), we will be implementing a new initiative to address the issue of pollution and waste at the base camp.

From each booking, we will be contributing $50 (for 6000 meter peaks), $100 (for 7000 meter peaks), and $200 (for 8000 meter peaks) to this project.

Our team will actively participate in cleaning up and collecting waste products, as well as establishing a dedicated waste management site at the base camp. We estimate that it will take one season to set up the waste collection area and an additional 3-4 seasons to fully clean up the mess left behind at the base camp. We will use local rock and stones to create the waste collection area, and the waste will be transported to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) for proper disposal. We hope that other operators in the region will join us in this effort to keep our mountains clean, and we will provide yearly updates on our progress.

CLIENT TESTIMONIALS . . .

Philip A Andrews (USA)

Our expedition to Mera and Baruntse was an amazing experience in every way, even when things didn’t go to plan. The itinerary was complex, taking us off the beaten path into some really remote country and attempting two different mountains. The Namas team organized it all flawlessly. They consistently hit the sweet spot between luxe and local, providing high-quality logistics while keeping things very Nepalese. And true to their ethical commitment, it was clear that they dealt fairly with the locals, who all seemed happy to be working with us.

On the trail Bisesh was a fine cultural guide and an easy traveling companion. Lead guide Noor was endlessly thoughtful and kind, as well as a super-solid technical leader with full IFMGA certification. Our basecamp cook was a master, and even our young porters we hope to see working up to guiding roles soon.

But while we were at altitude the pandemic was catching up to Nepal. Kathmandu was in lockdown, all international flights canceled. When an infection scare affected another team we had to break camp and change plans. The team proved very flexible and open in handling the uncertainty and delays that followed, as we waited it out in the mountains, then made a run for Kathmandu. Bisesh was critical in getting me out of the country, from working personal connections to secure seats on a charter flight, to lining up covid tests and the necessary paperwork.

Throughout these ups and downs Bisesh and the team were supportive, communicative, collaborative, and calm, as well as good company. I’d recommend them without hesitation, and personally I’m looking forward to returning soon for further adventures.

Frido Van Dijk 🇳🇱

Baruntse and Mera Peak Expedition (2022)

️⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️

The first Baruntse expedition in years to reach the top via the normal route.

It was a privilege to be part of this well-organized expedition. Base camp was very comfortable. Nice group of experienced, driven, and skilled Sherpa’s with countless 8000-meter climbs to their name. The attitude of founder Bishesh (for this occasion participant and expedition coordinator) was very casual, flexible, and pleasant. Would definitely recommend Namas.

Charles And Claude Chabert 🇦🇺

Baruntse 7129M/ Mera Peak & Lobuche East Expedition (2022)

️⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️

Awesome Baruntse expedition. Well-organised friendly team who did everything possible to ensure our trip was a success! Looking forward to our next adventure together. Thx Bisesh and team👌🏻👍🏻

Expedition Highlights

  • Baruntse 7129M and Mera peak 6476M (35-day itinerary)

  • 1:1 Guide/Climber ratio during Summit Climb. 1:2 ratio on Mera Peak climb.

  • South-east ridge route, Camp 1 - 2 strategy

  • 15 days in Baruntse Base camp 5460M and higher. Heated Dining tent and Single person tent at base camp

  • Return via helicopter after the expedition

  • Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M via Khumbu Valley (28-day itinerary)

INQUIRE NOW

Baruntse / Mera Peak Itinerary

Day 1 Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

Day 2 Trip Preparation Day

Day 3 Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (2730m/8954ft): 3-4 hours

Day 4 Paiya to Pangoma (2850m/93,48ft): 5-6 hours

Day 5 Pangoma to Nigmsa (2745m/90,03ft): 4-5 hours

Day 6 Nigmsa to Chetra khola (3150m/10332ft): 7-8 hours

Day 7 Chetrakhola to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 6-7 hours

Day 8 Kothe to Tangnang (4,350m/14,270ft): 3-4 hours

Day 9 Thangnang to Khare - 5,045m/16,486ft : 2-3 hours

Day 10 Acclimatisation day

Day 11 Khare to High camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 4-5 hours

Day 12 Summit Mera Peak and Kongma 

Day 13 Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari (5035m/16519 ft): 6 hours

Day 14 Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp (5300m/17388 ft): 6 hours 

Day 15 - 20 Rest day at the Baruntse Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, Training, and preparation for a summit bid 

Day 21 - 32 Camp 1, Camp 2 and Summit (Contingency, rotations between camp 1, camp 2 & BC and Summit Bid)

Day 33 Baruntse BC pack up and helo 🚁 to Lukla

Day 34 Fly back to Kathmandu 

Day 35 Departure

28 Days Baruntse Only Itinerary . . .

Day 1 Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

Day 2 Trip Preparation Day

Day 3 Fly to Lukla and trek to Monjo 2800M (6 hours)

Day 4 Monjo to Namche 3440M (5 - 6 hours)

Day 5 Namche Acclimatisation day (upto 3800M+)

Day 6 Namche to Phortse 3840M (6 hours)

Day 7 Phortse to Pheriche 4371M (6 hours)

Day 8 Pheriche to Chukung 4730M (5-6 hours)

Day 9 Chukung to Amphu Lhabtsa pass north base camp 5600M (5 - 6 hours)

Day 10 Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5845M to Baruntse BC 5640M (6 - 7hours)

Day 11 - 28 Baruntse BC climbing period (15 days climbing period) Puja ritual ceremony, training, rotations and summit push.

Day 29 Fly 🚁 from Baruntse BC to Lukla (or before if our expedition ends early)

Day 30 Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 31 Departure

ACCOMMODATIONS

Day 1 - 2 and 27 (Kathmandu 5 star hotel single room)

Day 9 - 25 (Alpine Camping)


EXPEDITION STRATEGY

Baruntse Expedition route

Baruntse Expedition route

EXPEDITION ROUTE

The Southeast Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb that primarily involves traversing snow-covered terrain. However, it also includes steep sections of ice at 50° and a prominent ice cliff around 7000 meters. Corniced sections of the upper summit ridge may be encountered, but the lower slopes of the mountain are generally considered to have low avalanche risk. In the past, the most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions are favorable and the mountain is objectively safe. However, in recent years (2013-2018), a higher number of summits have been achieved during the autumn season, leading to debate about the optimal time to climb. Fixed ropes are in place to protect climbers on the steeper sections of the mountain and on the cornices that must be traversed between camps.

(31 Days Itinerary) Amphu Lapcha Pass 5800M via Khumbu region

Amphu Lhabtsa pass ice formations

Amphu Lhabtsa pass ice formations

Amphu Lapcha hosts zigzag glaciers with base camps on the north and south where we have to stop for a camp night. Amphu Lapcha pass is considered one of the toughest passes in Nepal and requires your full climbing skills to make it over the pass. Jumaring up to climb the face of the wall, climbers will also have to scramble/traverse the rocky section of the mountain.

The view from Amphu Labtsa passes is grand and mesmerizing, with Imja valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse, and surrounding peaks all visible.

(35 Days Itinerary) Mera Peak 6476M Acclimatisation peak

For climbers who join our 35-day Baruntse/Mera itinerary, we have included Mera Peak 6476M as our acclimatization/training peak. Mera Peak is a non-technical trekking peak with minimal objective dangers, but it is still physically demanding. Our group will spend one night at the high camp, situated at an altitude of 5800 meters, and make an early morning summit push to reach the Mera Peak summit at 6476 meters. Following the summit, we will continue downwards to Kongma Dingma. Please note that this day will be a long climbing day, and climbers should be particularly aware of this.

Baruntse Base Camp 5460M

Baruntse base camp is at 5640M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col, and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for Camp 2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 M is placed, from where the summit is attempted.

Our team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike the glacier just outside of camp and spend a few sessions perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. The hike features dirt trails, scrambles over rocks, and crosses beautiful glaciers. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse peak and then heading back to Baruntse base camp.

Puja Day Ceremony at Base Camp - West Col - Camp 1 (6100 M) Approx 6 hours

Baruntse expedition puja ceremony

Puja ceremony day in Baruntse Base Camp

Puja ceremonies are performed by praying and asking permission from the god mountain for safe passage, success, and safety of the team in the morning, which is customary before beginning a climb. Many of the western climbers participating take part by placing an object to be used in the climb - ice axe, crampons, boots - on an altar that was made from stones and adorned with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags. The ceremony is concluded with readings and ritual blessings.

Guiding Sherpa leader teams fix the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas set up the safest way through the crevasses, overhangs, and icefalls.

Climbers at Baruntse West col 5900M

Climbers at Baruntse West col 5900M

Sherpas’ team carries the loads from basecamp at 5400 meters to camp 1 at 6100 meters and then returns to basecamp. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West col which is the final ascent before reaching Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consists of 45 degrees 200-meter-high ice wall. Beautiful views of the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu, and other Himalayan peaks are visible.

Clients are meant to carry their personal loads 60L - 70L throughout the climb.

Camp 1 - Camp 2 (6,400M) | Time approx: 3 - 4 hours

Baruntse Expedition, Camp 2, 6442M

Baruntse Camp 2, 6442M, Photo by - Pal Skyrud

Camp 2 (6,400M) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse southeast. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle-like slope.

Camp 2 - Summit Push and Back to Camp 1 | Time approx: 10 - 12 hours. Technical Challenges at 6900M ridge

Baruntse summit ridge

Namas Guide Pega Sherpa, descending/traversing down the exposed Baruntse ridge at 7000M elevation.

Very sharp ridge at (approx 6900m). The sharp ridge provides excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Ladders are required due to the crevasse at 6900M. Sherpa team fixing the rope will assess the crevasse opening ridge. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further 60 - 90 min climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu which can be seen anywhere in the Himalayas.

Making it to the summit is 60% job done. Descending is one of the grueling parts of climbing parts of mountain climbing. From there the descend with all the abseiling skills will demand the climbers’ full attention. So, climbers can celebrate their moment at the top. If weather permits and stays non-windy then climbers might be able to enjoy 30 - 60 min of a celebratory moment with the panoramic view Himalayas. But normally our guiding team will advise the climbers when to descend. It’s best to celebrate and at the same time refuel and gain some of your energy back to be able to descend back to camp 2 or 1 safely. A lot of mountain incidents happen on the way back while descending.

Baruntse summit

🏔Makalu 8463M seen from Baruntse summit, taken by Namas Adventure guide Nima Sherpa

Advice to climbers keen on climbing Baruntse Peak

To Baruntse Summit 7129 M

Interested climbers will definitely have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 200 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. Route fixing guides/Sherpas have to take a large number of ropes to fix the way. Baruntse is not for novice climbers. Climbers need to have relevant experiences of previous non-technical and technical climbing experiences. Climbing experiences in the alps, Andes mountains, and the Himalayas is necessary. For climbers with some experience in mountain climbing, it is another great experience to climb Baruntse to further bag and gain a lot of knowledge in mountaineering.

More Sources on Baruntse Peak:


BARUNTSE Expedition BLOG ARTICLES

Everything you need to know about Baruntse Peak climbing expedition

When to climb Baruntse? Spring or Autumn

Visual Journey of Baruntse 7129M Expedition

Experiences, skills & fitness required to climb Baruntse expedition

Baruntse Peak: Climbers guide

Baruntse or Himlung Himal, Which 7000M peak to climb?

BARUNTSE USEFUL BLOG POSTS:

INQUIRE NOW

WHAT'S INCLUDED

  • IFMGA or NMA certified Guide leader

  • Mera Peak 6476M on 35-Day Itinerary

  • Helicopter flight back to Lukla from Baruntse BC after returning to BC.

  • Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

  • 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (At Baruntse only, 1:2 Ratio at Mera Peak)

  • Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )

  • Supplemental Oxygen cylinder for emergency use only (Personal O2 system can be arranged at $550 P/P with 1 bottle and 1 regulator system)

  • 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

  • All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

  • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

  • Solo tent at BC, and 2 person tent at higher camps

  • 40 kgs personal weight (Extra additional weight, clients will need to hire an additional porter. Estimated $1000 USD for 27-28 days)

  • Meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options, etc)

  • Burners and expedition equipment

  • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone

  • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

  • Lodge accommodation during the trek

  • Porters per guest

  • Arrival pick-up and departure

  • Internal flights

  • Basic First aid kit

  • Welcome or Farewell leave Dinner

WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED

  • Visas and travel insurance

  • Summit Bonus ($800 per member)

  • Entertainment and food (Kathmandu)

  • Bottled drinks and beverages

  • Evacuation (will be done in your account)

  • Single supplement Charges

  • Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions

  • Optional trips

  • Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

  • Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon

  • International flights to Kathmandu

ADD'S ON . . .

  • Personal Sherpa $3200 p/p

  • Extra Oxygen bottle $550 per bottle

  • All heli charter includes passengers luggage. *Prices stated $ is US Dollars

EQUIPMENT LIST . . .

Mountain climbing Gears

  • Helmet (Black diamond, Petzel)
  • Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
  • A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
  • Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
  • Rappel device: ATC or figure 8

Mountaineering boots

  • Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m; La Sportiva or equivalent
  • Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
  • Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
  • Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

Body Layers:

  • Expedition suits - North face Himalayan suit or similat
  • 4 merino base layers: top / bottom set
  • 5 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
  • Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
  • Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
  • Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

  • Wool hat (ski hat)
  • Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
  • Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
  • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
  • Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
  • Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

  • Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
  • Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
  • High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
  • Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
  • Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
  • Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: Plastic spoon
  • Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
  • Lip balm with sunblock
  • Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 litter capacity
  • Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
  • Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
  • Hand warmers & toe warmers
  • Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
  • Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
  • Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
  • Travel Clothes
  • Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
  • Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smart phone, etc
  • Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
  • Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
  • Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*

Related blog articles:

Altitude sickness

World’s most dangerous airport, Lukla

$20 BY 2020, a case for our himalayan porters

Mountain climbing gears checklist

EQUIPMENT HIRE . . .

**Equipment hire (link)

Bundle Price per expedition: £300 | $350 p/p**

Client’s will try and receive full gears when they arrive in Nepal.

“Rental gears are exclusively used by and for Namas adventure clients rental purpose only. We do not rent gears to other operators. We only provide high-quality gears.”

Benefits of renting gears with us:

  • Save money on gears that will end up costing you £2000 | $2700
  • Save cost on extra airline baggage weights $60 per kg (on average)
  • Saves you time and energy to go through all the research and hassle of finding the gears

Gears Included (Bundle package)

  • -23C/-30C Kailas Mountain 900 Down Sleeping Bag
  • 12 Point Kantz Crampons
  • Climbing Helmet
  • Climbing harness
  • 3X Carabiners
  • Z-lite sleeping foam mat
  • L Duffle bag

DIFFERNT ROUTES ON BARUNTSE . . .

2021 WEST FACE "HEAVENLY TRAP" - Marek "Mara" Holecek and fellow Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh

1995 WEST FACE RUSSIAN EFIMOV - Sergi Efimov and 5 team members

 

Gallery

FAQ’s (Frequently asked questions)


Expedition Route / Guide and teams / Tips & General questions

When is the best time to plan for Baruntse Expedition? . . .

October - November (Autumn)

Which route will Namas team choose? I can see the mountain is very steep and exposed, What is your climbing strategy? . . .

Baruntse Peak is one of the less technical 7000M climbing mountain in the Himalayas (Nepal). We will climb through the south-east ridge of the mountain. Fixed rope lines will be setup by our rope fixing team all the way to the summit.

Our stragey will be to use Camp 1 and camp 2 climbing through the standard route of south east ridge. More detailed information on Expedition stragey coloumn above

How long is a typical day on the mountain?? . . .

Time duration and distance varies from camp to camp, but on normal climbing day can expect an average of 6 hours climb. Summit attempt days are usually the longest one, as we have to descend down to our chosen camp. (Camp 1 or 2 depending on our overall progress)

What is summit day like? . . .

Summit day in Baruntse is the straightforward climb through the narrow ridge. We will be mostly climbing through ice and snow terrains and will be a early day (am) start to the summit and back to camp 2 or 1.

Contingency Days during Baruntse Expedition? . . .

We have added contingency day on our 15 days climbing/summit days. If the weather is all great then from base camp to summit and back can be achieved in 5/6 days if that is not the case then we have already added an extra 4 days as a contingency so that our team can have extra days for summit attempt when things don't go as planned. Yes, I would highly recommend return flight to stay flexible as this will give you the opportunity to extend/shorten your departure date.

Guides /Sherpas for Baruntse Expedition? Ratio : clients. Qualification and level of English? . . .

On this expedition we aim to have max 8 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IMFGA or NMA certified. He will be the main leader of the team. Western guide with IFMGA certified can be arranged upon request. Additional* charges apply. But we believe that Nepalese IFMGA certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritise local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.

Sherpa ratio 1:1. Our Sherpas are NMA (Khumbu climbing centre trained/certified). Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.

How much is the Summit tip for my personal guide? . . .

Suggested Additional Summit tips $800. Incase of no summit we ask members to tip $400+ to your guide member

What are the skills/prior experience required for this climb? . . .

You'll need to be comfortable using ropes, ice axe, crampons and jumars. Although ropes are fixed line the all way to the summit, you need to be able to climb steep rock and hard water ice, carrying a big pack. Previous high-altitude mountaineering experience is a must and your must be capable of climbing alpine AD routes. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions around your experience for climbing Ama Dablam.

How do I know this is the right trip for me? . . .

Baruntse Expedition climb being a less technical climb relatively, this mountaineering adventure really depends on your ambition to go on a great challenging climbing adventure. To help you clarify if this is the right expedition for you, [our grading][2] system can help you determine if this is the right expedition and if it is the right time to take upon trips of such nature. If you are yet unsure please do contact our team and we will walk you through where you are in your current experience level and guide you into choosing the right expeditions.

How many guides/ Sherpas will be assigned to our group? . . .

For Baruntse Expedition 1:1 Sherpa guides are assigned to our group.

How many in a group? . . .

Min 2 - Max 8

Who is this trip for? . . .

Any climbers 18+ with relevant climbing experiences.

Who goes on this Expedition? . . .

Climbers from all over the globe with different backgrounds, interest and mountaineering skill level join our expeditoin. Some climbers even join this expedition after climbing Everest or other higher expedition because all climbs are fundamentally different and challenging.

Can my friends and family join me on the trek into Base Camp? . . .

Yes, it is possible. Please email us about this and give you relevant informations.

Can I contact other climbers to join this expedition? . . .

Yes, we highly encourage that. Maybe its your friend with whom you have been on amazing/challenging adventure trips before, a you met during your other expeditions, a challenge you seek together or any other ideas where you think the other person might enjoy this amazing climb.

Baggage allowance by Namas Expedition team for Baruntse Expedition? . . .

We allow 40kgs of personal weight for this expedition.

Is it possible to organise a private expedition? . . .

We will be more than happy to organise private Baruntse expedition for you and your group. As long as it is with in the suitable season. Extra cost will apply as we will have to organise a seperate logistical and planning for private expedition request. Please contact our team for any private trips or expeditions.

What fitness/conditioning level is needed for this climb? . . .

You need to be in excellent shape for this climb. Although Baruntse climb is supported by Sherpa guides and ropes, due to the technical nature of the peak, it is critical that you are in the best shape possible. Sherpa support is moderate on this climb, you are expected to be able to carry all of your personal gear needed for the climb. Our Sherpa teams will primarily be responsible for transporting our group gear.

Technical preparation and trainings for Baruntse Expedition? . . .

  • Basic Bouldering and rope climbing session in your local climbing centre.
  • Commitment to regular endurance and strengthening training.
  • Basic Ice climbing course to help you with use of rope climbing, ice axe, crampons and understand the nature of physical demands that the mountain requires.
  • 4000 - 6500 M peak of mountain summit. Your adaptability to high altitude and climbing on high steep terrains.

How heavy will my bagpack be? . . .

We will be moving a lot of our personal gears during acclimatisation rotation and safely leave it in our personal tent. This lightens the load and normally your packs are 18–25kg/40–55lb.

How do you I train for a trip like this? . . .

We have written blog post on training for mountaineering which can give yo a guidance and tips on how long to what type of training you should undertake to train yourself well for challenging mountaineering expeditions.

Physical fitness needed for Baruntse Expedition? . . .

You need to be in your top shape for this climb. Due to the semi-technical nature of the peak, it is very important that you are in the best shape possible. Also, as Sherpa support is moderate on this climb, you are expected to be able to carry all of your personal gear needed for the climb. Sherpa teams are primarily responsible for carrying group gears to the camps.

Hotels / Foods

What sort of hotels do we stay at in the city? . . .

All Namas expedition team stays at the Hotel Manalsu or Tibet in Kathmandu (Arrival/Departure). Arrivals hotels are only 15 minutes walk from the tourist centre of Thamel. Our chosen hotel provides swimming pool, restaurants, spa and massage near by and plenty of local shops near by to buy souviners.

What are the lodges like? Can I have my own room or tent? . . .

Lodges or tea houses we use during trekking days are local Sherpa tea houses. You will love the cultural ambience of the tea houses. Places we book are kept tidy, clean, modern lodges—the best that are available in each village. They are well-known locations to us and we have a good relationship with the lodge owners. Private rooms can be booked at additional cost. Our standard trips are based on shared rooms, usually twin-share and sometimes triple-share. On the mountain you will share a tent with one, or sometimes two other climbers.

If you would like a personal tent during Expedition days, Base camp personal tent can be arranged. Please do let us know in advance so that our team can make the necessary arrangements.

Will Showers and laundry be available during expedition? . . .

On our trekking days tea houses we stay will offer hot showers and laundry services for a small fee. At the Base Camp we will set up our own shower tents, where showers are available and there will be access to hot water for you to do your clothes washing. Laundry powder is provided.

Is foods included in our expedition fees? . . .

All our expeditions are all-inclusive. Breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as ample hot and cold drinks during trek and expedition days are included. We can cater for vegetarians as well as many other special diets as long as we are informed of this prior to the trip. All of our expeditions provide excellent local and Western food.

What are the food like? . . .

During the trekking days in tea houses mostly foods are prepared according to your choice in the menu. Rice and Lentils (Dal bhat being the famous diet) to pasta, soups, pizza, mash potato, dumplings etc. But during the camping days we provide both cooked and packed/canned food supplies packed from Kathmandu.

Options are limited during camping days. Mostly Rice/lentils/veg/ pasta for cooked foods and freezed dried foods, chocolate/energy bars, biscuits, hydration tablets. We will have varieties of freezed dried foods (chicken, veg, spaghetti etc ) which are specially made for expeditions.

Visa Information / Flights / Pre travel

What is the best way to get to Nepal? . . .

You will need to search for flights to Kathmandu Tribhuvan Intn'l airport. Regular flights operate into Kathmandu via Bangkok, Doha, Dubai, Trukey, Hong Kong, Singapore and Delhi.

Do I need to get a visa for Nepal? . . .

Yes. For most nationalities, a visa can be obtained on-arrival into Kathmandu airport or border entry points or can be issued prior through an Nepalese embassies or consulated abroad. Upon arrival, be sure to have the correct USD amount in cash for your visa application and photos can be take through the kiosk machine available at the airport. Currently, a 40-day visa costs $40 and 90-day visa costs US$100. Please dp make sure that your passport has at least six months validity.

Do I need to arrive the day before the trip starts? And when should I book my flight to leave? . . .

We have got you all covered. All our trip programme itinerary already have an arrival day and a departure day built into them. Please plan to arrive at early hours on Day 1 of the itinerary. If you plan to come early and explore Kathmandu then you are welcome as Kathmandy offers tons of culutral experiences. If you would like a 1-2 days tours please do let us know and we can provide suggestions. Namas Nepal representative will meet and pick you up at the airport and the first of many team briefings will take place on the evening of Day One. Please do not book to depart before the scheduled final trip itinerary day. All the details will also be sent on the final email.

When should I book my ticket? . . .

We recommeend you to book 90-60 days prior to your trip start date to ensure your trip has met the minimum numbers and will operate. If you see a good deal and want to book your flights, then ensure that you can make changes to your ticket or you run the risk of losing it if we do have to cancel the trip. In such situations, we are usually able to help you book on to an alternate departure, either with us or another operator.

Can I get a cheap ticket online? . . .

Yes, please make sure you have a flexible departure date on your ticket. With the nature of our expedition and the places we do are not straight forward as we due to unforseen cisrumstances we might have to add 1-2 days extras to complete our expedition which will lead to extension of our itinerary. In those circumstances you do not want to end up paying extra for your departures.

Where do we meet? Will I be picked up? . . .

As you arrive in Kathmandu, Namas guide or representative will receive you at the airport with our shuttle car/van. If you are arriving before the scheduled trip start date and want to be receiced at airport then please do let us know in advance and we can make the arrangements to pick you up. Or there are airport taxies to help you.

What if I am arriving early or departing late? . . .

Namas team can make necessary arrangements or recommendations should you want to explore more of Nepal. Please do let us know in advance or even to our team in Nepal to help you with these matter.

Expedition Gears and equipments / Internet / Power

Will you provide clothing and expedition equipment list? . . .

Upon Baruntse Expedition inquiry and confirmation email we will email you all the necessary documentation needed, including detailed equipment lists. If you have questions you have after reading through our equipment list you can always reach out to us and we can assist you in preparing for the trip as well as recommending and sourcing a range of clothing and equipment suitable for the climb. Our list are prepared with recommendation from our Sherpa climbing team.

Do I really need all the equipment on the equipment list? . . .

Yes, these lists have been carefully prepared and please bring everything on the list!

How heavy will my bagpack be? . . .

We will move our personal gear up the mountain during our acclimatisation rotation and store it in your assigned tents. Normally our packs are 18-25kg/40-55lb.

Logistical support for Baruntse Expedition. Kitchen staffs and porters? . . .

Logistical team during expedition. we will have 1 head chef with 1-2 helpers for small numbers ( 1-4 groups ). And 3 - 4 ( for 5 - 8 groups ). Porters numbers also depend on the number of climbers. We allow 40Kgs per client for this expedition and each porter will carry 30kgs per client. So, with the increase in weights per client the no. of porter team increases.

What kind of Tents will we use during Baruntse Expedition? Brands/sizes and setups? *. . .

We will use alpine 3/4 season tents from Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment and Kailas. Most of our client tents are 2 person tents but a single tent can be provided for any solo climbers joining the team. Although we recommend 2 people in a tent to have company and preserve the natural heat. Head of Sherpa team Sardar will be in charge of all the tent setups. On 2020 we will have new tents, burners, and other climbing equipment.

4 season goose downfilled sleeping bag that can handle upto -40C is recommended. This will be clearly stated in your recommended gear list but for Ama Dablam expeditions. We suggest buying a sleeping bag big enough to allow you to wear extra clothes in if it is especially cold .

How much weight will we carry on the expedition? . . .

Once we begin our expedition from base camp, our strong Sherpa team that will carry all the team equipment, food and ropes and you will carry all your personal gear. This can weigh around 18–25kg/40–55lb. So you will need to be at your best physical shape in order to climb the mountain with your bagpack load.

Will supplemental oxygen be provided during the expedition? Is this included in our expedition fee? . . .

Ama Dablam expedition climbers are not porvided supplemental oxygen, however our team do take oxygen as a medical backup. If you would like to request one then we can make the arrangements upon request. (Extra charges apply) as this is not included in our expedition fees.

What high altitude medication will be available on the expedition? Do we need to take tablets before/ during the trek? . . .

All our guides carry extensive medical kits including various medications for altitude illness. If you have a previous history of altitude illness then please discuss this with us and your physician, otherwise there is no need to take preventative medication before or during your expedition.

You need to bring any medications you regularly use (don’t forget to tell us about them), plus extras. Also bring a small first aid kit including a blister kit and mild headache medication for the normal altitude headaches.

Will there be any access to a satellite phone? If yes then what would be the charges for usage? . . .

Yes, on all our expedition our guides take satellite phones and you are welcome to use these at US$3 per minute. There will be a daily dispatches blog on our Namas adventure website, where your friends and family can follow your progress.

Is there internet throughout the expedition? . . .

Once you get hold of local Nepalese sim card, internet can be accessed throughout the trail all the way to Khare village. Internet speed wont be as reliable once we go higher but we can expect some internet coverage. Once we start to ascend towards Mera Peak an higher there will not be any internet coverage.

Will there be any power source for charging batteries, etc. available throughout the expedition? . . .

All our expedition team is equipped with solar panels and battery charging stations. Our first priority wil always be to charge our radios, satellite phones and expedition electrical equipment. There is usually enough power to then charge your personal electrical equipment.

While on trek, tea houses will also have power available with with Asian plugs (needed) and offer recharging for a fee.

What is the best equipment for photography in alpine environments? . . .

As camera technology is changing and getting smaller and better, we recommed light and durable cameras for photography. If you are a serious photographer then you will have your preferences on camera gears but just for enthusiast to record and document your memory mirrorless cameras from SONY, Cannon and small action camera like gopro or insta 360 are recommended. Drone is gaining its popularity but please ask us information for drone use rules and regulation. For safety reason Nepal is very stict with drone use and we do not want it to be a hassle during our expedition days.

Insurance

What insurance do we need to get? . . .

Insurances are mandatory in all our trips, there is a requirement for each expedition member to have insurance to cover any personal or medical mishaps that may occur before or during the expedition. [Click here for more information on expedition insurance.][2]

Do I need evacuation insurance? . . .

Yes, it is very important and a must. Many of our expeditions are in remote places with no roads and third world medical services. In an unlikely event scenario, we would want you to be evacuated asap and get you the right medical attention.

Who do you recommend for insurance? . . .

Insurances varies on your nationality but there are a handful of insurances that cover most of the countries especially for mountaineering expeditions. [Please click the link here][2], we have a list of recommended insurance providers that we tust and which our clients have previously used.

What is Trip Cancellation Insurance? . . .

For very unknown and unforeseen circumstances you may be forced to cancel their trips for reasons such as family illness, injury to one’s self, business issues, etc. In times like this you want to have a peace of mind protecting your investments on trips, flight tickets. So trip cancellation insurnace should gurantee protection of your money that you have paid for.