AMA DABLAM 6812M

GRADING (Alpine/Fitness): TD/5 (click for more grading Infos)

OVERVIEW

Ama Dablam 6812M is renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountains in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain for climbing enthusiasts. Whether you plan to tackle it before or after a bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Many alpinists and mountaineers consider a climb of Ama Dablam to be a "must-do" experience.

Pre-requisite requirements (2 or more 6000M + multi-pitch climbing skills): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Cholatse, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c

History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ama Dablam's expedition has been a dream for many mountaineers. Its Southwest ridgeline is the safest route to climb this amazing peak.

HIGHLIGHTS

  • Ama Dablam 6812M summit

  • South-west ridge route, Camp 1 - 2 (possible camp 2.9 or 3) strategy

  • 10 days in Ama Dablam Base camp 4570M and higher

  • 1:1 Guide/Climber ratio throughout the expedition

  • Scenic Khumbu valley trek

  • Spring 2025

    20th April - 12th May

    Autumn 2025

    20th October - 11th November

  • USd 8,750 P/P

    Deposit required: USD 1,000 p/p

    Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD

    • IFMGA or NMA certified Guide leader

    • $500 Individual tip pool. (This is not summit bonus tips) The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)

    • Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

    • 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (At Baruntse only, 1:2 Ratio at Mera Peak)

    • Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )

    • Supplemental Oxygen cylinder for emergency use only (Personal O2 system can be arranged at $550 P/P with 1 bottle and 1 regulator system)

    • 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

    • All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

    • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

    • Solo tent at BC, and 2 person tent at higher camps

    • 30 kgs personal weight (Extra additional weight, clients will need to hire an additional porter. Estimated $1000 USD for 27-28 days)

    • Meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options, etc)

    • Burners and expedition equipment

    • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone

    • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

    • Lodge accommodation during the trek

    • Porters per guest

    • Arrival pick-up and departure

    • Internal flights

    • Basic First aid kit

    • Welcome or Farewell leave Dinner

    • Visas and travel insurance

    • Summit Bonus ($800 per member)

    • Entertainment and food (Kathmandu)

    • Bottled drinks and beverages

    • Evacuation (will be done in your account)

    • Single supplement Charges

    • Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions

    • Optional trips

    • Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    • Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon

    • International flights to Kathmandu

  • 2023 Autumn 1 Summit Success

    2024 Fall season. Summit by NAMAS team.

    🗓️ 29.10.2024 - 2 X members

    🗓️ 30.11.2024 - 2 X Members

SECURE YOUR SPOT - DEPOSIT PAYMENT

ITINERARY

Day 1 & 2 Arrival and Kathmandu (Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )

Day 3 Lukla / Monjo 2800M (5 - 7 hours)

Day 4 & 5 Namche Bazaar/ Acclimatisation 3440M (3 hours acclimatisation trek, up to 3375M)

Day 6 Namche / Phortse 3840M (6 hours)

Day 7 Phortse to Pangboche 3985M (5 - 6 hours)

Day 8 - 19 (12 Days of climbing, Ama Dablam Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training and preparation for summit bid. Camp 1, Camp 2, possibly Camp 3 and Summit)

Day 20 Return trek to Namche (6 - 7 hours)

Day 21 Return trek to Lukla (6 - 7 hours)

Day 22 Fly Lukla to Ramechap (30 min) and drive to Kathmandu (4-6 hours, traffic dependent)

Day 23 Departure

ACCOMMODATIONS

Day 1 - 2 and 25 (5 Star hotel. Kathmandu - Hotel Dusit Princess)

    • Baruntse 7129M & Ama Dablam Expedition

    • Ama Dablam & Cholatse 6460M Expedition

    • Manaslu 8163M & Ama Dablam Expedition

    Inquire for price

  • LINK

    USD 17,750 P/P

    Deposit required: USD 4,000 p/p

STRATEGY

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

During the Ama Dablam expedition, we will set up 2-3 camps and climb through the safest route, the southwest ridge. After establishing ourselves at Base Camp, trekking up the moraine we will move higher to Camp 1 (5,807 meters/19,052 feet). From Camp 1, fixed-line ropes are used for traversing on solid granite and climbing on snow/rocky exposed ridges and vertical granite to Camp 2. Camp 2 (6,200 meters/20,594 feet), also known as the "YELLOW TOWER," is reached after 60-70 feet of vertical rock climbing. This marks the start of the more difficult and objectively dangerous part of the climb.

Base Camp (4529M) - Camp 1 (5800M) and Camp 2 (6100M) Rotation

Camp 2 Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam Expedition

Renaye, climbing to mushroom ridge, Ama Dablam Expedition. Photo - Masaru Kanda

From Days 12 to 19-20, we will review our climbing skills and complete a few acclimatization rotations to get accustomed to the terrain and properly acclimatize our bodies for the final summit push. During these rotations, we will carry our personal gear to our camps and store it there.

The very exposed nature of the route on Ama Dablam provides exciting climbing, although the slope is not as steep as one might expect. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day, the route crosses between ice cliffs and follows a snow arête directly to the 6,810 meter summit. However, the climb is physically demanding and requires long hours of climbing on the final summit day.

Camp 2.1 or Camp 3 (6400M) (Situational) and Summit bid

SKILLS REQUIRED . . .

Amadablam is a climbers mountain. You will need exceptional physical fitness and climbing skills. Clients should be able to take care of themselves during climbing days. Eating well, staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb should be your second nature. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within you and your ability to climb. We suggest certain skills especially for Amadablam style expedition.

  • Rock climbing indoors and outdoors - (i) learn the basics of wearing harness and helmets (ii) tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot (iii) basics of using belaying device correctly (iv) Use ascending and descending devices (iv) basics of using ropes , start/end when climbing (v) learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features simultaneously.

  • The more experience you have on rock climbing, taking on tougher rotes in different types of rock, the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing style and adjusting during the expeditions.

  • Abseiling. This is the simplest yet the one of the most important skills to master. Some multi - pitch abseiling knowledge/experience are also required

  • Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.

  • Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on vertical climb. Ice arrest skills to save your self incase of slips or fall, being comfortable while descending and abseiling with crampons in all types of terrains.

  • Climbing in Altitude. We will be climbing Island peak as a training/acclimatising peak. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of how your body copes in high altitude. You are responsible to build you fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation. Equally important clients have to be aware of their eating pattern and staying hydrated.

( All training will be provided in Amadablam base camp by your expedition leader, to refresh your skill memories and get you started into climbing )

ADD'S ON . . .

  • Personal Sherpa $3200 p/p
  • Extra Oxygen bottle $350 per bottle
  • All heli charter includes passengers luggage.

*Prices stated $ is US Dollars

EQUIPMENT LIST . . .

Mountain climbing Gears

  • Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
  • Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
  • A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
  • Ascender or Jummar
  • Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
  • Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
  • Crampons 12 point

Mountaineering boots

  • Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m; La Sportiva or equivalent
  • Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
  • Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
  • Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

Body Layers:

  • Expedition suits - North face Himalayan suit or similat
  • 4 merino base layers: top / bottom set
  • 5 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
  • Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
  • Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
  • Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

  • Wool hat (ski hat)
  • Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
  • Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
  • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
  • Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
  • Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

  • Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
  • Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
  • High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
  • Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
  • Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
  • Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: Plastic spoon
  • Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
  • Lip balm with sunblock
  • Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 litter capacity
  • Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
  • Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
  • Hand warmers & toe warmers
  • Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
  • Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
  • Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
  • Travel Clothes
  • Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
  • Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smart phone, etc
  • Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
  • Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
  • Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*

Related blog articles:

Altitude sickness

World’s most dangerous airport, Lukla

$20 BY 2020, a case for our himalayan porters

Mountain climbing gears checklist

EQUIPMENT HIRE . . .

**Equipment hire (link)

Bundle Price per expedition: £300 | $350 p/p**

Client’s will try and receive full gears when they arrive in Nepal.

“Rental gears are exclusively used by and for Namas adventure clients rental purpose only. We do not rent gears to other operators. We only provide high-quality gears.”

Benefits of renting gears with us:

  • Save money on gears that will end up costing you £2000 | $2700
  • Save cost on extra airline baggage weights $60 per kg (on average)
  • Saves you time and energy to go through all the research and hassle of finding the gears

Gears Included (Bundle package)

  • -23C/-30C Kailas Mountain 900 Down Sleeping Bag
  • 12 Point Kantz Crampons
  • Climbing Helmet
  • Climbing harness
  • 3X Carabiners
  • Z-lite sleeping foam mat
  • 150L Duffle bag
 

When is the best time to summit Ama Dablam? . . .

March - May

October - November

Which route will Namas team choose? I can see the mountain is very steep and exposed, What is your climbing strategy? . . .

Yes, Ama Dablam is more technical than most of the other climbs that we do. Above Camp 1, we are on fixed ropes moving over technical terrain for the rest of the climb. We are often 'clipped in' while moving around Camp 2! The route we ascend is the Southwest Ridge, which is the standard route on the mountain. We also offer a trip that ascends the highly technical North Ridge of Ama Dablam. Please contact our office for further information on this route.

How long is a typical day on the mountain?? . . .

Time duration and distance varies from camp to camp, but on normal climbing day can expect an average of 6 hours climb. Summit attempt days are usually the longest one, as we have to descend down to our chosen camp. (Camp 1 or 2 depending on our overall progress)

What is summit day like? . . .

Summit day in Ama dablam is the most straightforward day of the whole climb!. If we choose to climb from Camp 2 then expect a 12+ hours back and forth climb but if our Sherpa team decides it is safe to set up camp 2.9 then summit to camp 2 should be an approx of 10 hours climb. This is the only day where we will be climbing on ice and snow route with no rock slabs.

Contingency Days during Ama Dablam Expedition? . . .

We have added contingency day on our 14 days climbing/summit days. If the weather is all great then from base camp to summit and back can be achieved in 7/8 days if that is not the case then we have already added an extra 4 days as a contingency so that our team can have extra days for summit attempt when things don't go as planned. Yes, I would highly recommend return flight to stay flexible as this will give you the opportunity to extend/shorten your departure date.

Guides /Sherpas for Ama Dablam Expedition? Ratio : clients. Qualification and level of English? . . .

On this expedition we aim to have max 8 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IFMGA / NMA certified. He will be the main leader of the team. Western guide with IMFGA certified can be arranged upon request. Additional* charges apply. But we believe that Nepalese IFMGA certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritise local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.

Sherpa ratio 1:2. Our Sherpas are NMA ( Khumbu climbing centre trained/certified ). Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.

How much tips do you suggest for guides and porter teams? Summit tips? . . .

Most of our guest give tips during the end of the trek/climb. Your booking payment already consist a tip pool of $500. We will fairly distribute the tips among your drivers, assistant guides and porters.

Guest also donates trekking equipments like jackets, trek poles, gloves or hats to porters which is greatly appreciated. Guest can also buy our porters dinner, during the final day of the trek for all their hard work and for making their trek possible

Suggested Additional Summit tips $300.

What are the skills/prior experience required for this climb? . . .

You'll need to be comfortable using ropes, ice axe, crampons and jumars. Although ropes are fixed line the all way to the summit, you need to be able to climb steep rock and hard water ice, carrying a big pack. Previous high-altitude mountaineering experience is a must and your must be capable of climbing alpine AD routes. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions around your experience for climbing Ama Dablam.

How do I know this is the right trip for me? . . .

Ama Dablam Expedition climb really depends on your ambition to go on great challenging climbing adventure. To help you clarify if this is the right expedition for you, our grading system can help you determine if this is the right expedition and if it is the right time to take upon trips of such nature. If you are yet unsure please do contact our team and we will walk you through where you are in your current experience level and guide you into choosing the right expeditions.

How many guides/ Sherpas will be assigned to our group? . . .

For Ama Dablam Expedition 1:2 Sherpa guides are assigned to our group.

How many in a group? . . .

Min 2 - Max 8

Who is this trip for? . . .

Any climbers 18+ with relevant climbing experiences.

Who goes on this Expedition? . . .

Climbers from all over the globe with different backgrounds, interest and mountaineering skill level join our expeditoin. Some climbers even join this expedition after climbing Everest or other higher expedition because all climbs are fundamentally different and challenging.

Can my friends and family join me on the trek into Base Camp? . . .

Yes, it is possible. Please email us about this and give you relevant informations.

Can I contact other climbers to join this expedition? . . .

Yes, we highly encourage that. Maybe its your friend with whom you have been on amazing/challenging adventure trips before, a you met during your other expeditions, a challenge you seek together or any other ideas where you think the other person might enjoy this amazing climb.

Baggage allowance by Namas Expedition team for Ama Dablam Expedition? . . .

We allow 40kgs of personal weight for this expedition.

Is it possible to organise a private expedition? . . .

We will be more than happy to organise Ama Dablam private expedition for you and your group. As long as it is with in the suitable season. Extra cost will apply as we will have to organise a seperate logistical and planning for private expedition request. Please contact our team for any private trips or expeditions.

What fitness/conditioning level is needed for this climb? . . .

You need to be in excellent shape for this climb. Although Ama dablam climb is supported by Sherpa guides and ropes, due to the technical nature of the peak, it is critical that you are in the best shape possible. Sherpa support is moderate on this climb, you are expected to be able to carry all of your personal gear needed for the climb. Our Sherpa teams will primarily be responsible for transporting our group gear.

Technical preparation and trainings for Ama Dablam Expedition? . . .

  • Basic Bouldering and rope climbing session in your local climbing centre.

  • Commitment to regular endurance and strengthening training.

  • Basic Ice climbing course to help you with use of rope climbing, ice axe, crampons and understand the nature of physical demands that the mountain requires.

  • 4000 - 6500 M peak of mountain summit. Your adaptability to high altitude and climbing on high steep terrains.

How heavy will my bagpack be? . . .

We will be moving a lot of our personal gears during acclimatisation rotation and safely leave it in our personal tent. This lightens the load and normally your packs are 18–25kg/40–55lb.

How do you I train for a trip like this? . . .

We have written blog post on training for mountaineering which can give yo a guidance and tips on how long to what type of training you should undertake to train yourself well for challenging mountaineering expeditions.

Physical fitness needed for Ama Dablam Expedition? . . .

You need to be in your top shape for this climb. Due to the technical nature of the peak, it is very important that you are in the best shape possible. Also, as Sherpa support is moderate on this climb, you are expected to be able to carry all of your personal gear needed for the climb. Sherpa teams are primarily responsible for carrying group gears to the camps.

What sort of hotels do we stay at in the city? . . .

All Namas expedition team stays at the Hotel Manalsu or Tibet in Kathmandu (Arrival) and Dwarikas (Departure). Arrivals hotels are only 15 minutes walk from the tourist centre of Thamel. Our chosen hotel provides swimming pool, restaurants, spa and massage near by and plenty of local shops near by to buy souviners.

What are the lodges like? Can I have my own room or tent? . . .

Lodges or tea houses we use during trekking days are local Sherpa tea houses. You will love the cultural ambience of the tea houses. Places we book are kept tidy, clean, modern lodges—the best that are available in each village. They are well-known locations to us and we have a good relationship with the lodge owners. Private rooms can be booked at additional cost. Our standard trips are based on shared rooms, usually twin-share and sometimes triple-share. On the mountain you will share a tent with one, or sometimes two other climbers.

If you would like a personal tent during Expedition days, Base camp personal tent can be arranged. Please do let us know in advance so that our team can make the necessary arrangements.

Will Showers and laundry be available during expedition? . . .

On our trekking days tea houses we stay will offer hot showers and laundry services for a small fee. At the Base Camp we will set up our own shower tents, where showers are available and there will be access to hot water for you to do your clothes washing. Laundry powder is provided.

Is foods included in our expedition fees? . . .

All our expeditions are all-inclusive. Breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as ample hot and cold drinks during trek and expedition days are included. We can cater for vegetarians as well as many other special diets as long as we are informed of this prior to the trip. All of our expeditions provide excellent local and Western food.

What are the food like? . . .

During the trekking days in tea houses mostly foods are prepared according to your choice in the menu. Rice and Lentils (Dal bhat being the famous diet) to pasta, soups, pizza, mash potato, dumplings etc. But during the camping days we provide both cooked and packed/canned food supplies packed from Kathmandu.

Options are limited during camping days. Mostly Rice/lentils/veg/ pasta for cooked foods and freezed dried foods, chocolate/energy bars, biscuits, hydration tablets. We will have varieties of freezed dried foods (chicken, veg, spaghetti etc ) which are specially made for expeditions.

What is the best way to get to Nepal? . . .

You will need to search for flights to Kathmandu Tribhuvan Intn'l airport. Regular flights operate into Kathmandu via Bangkok, Doha, Dubai, Trukey, Hong Kong, Singapore and Delhi.

Do I need to get a visa for Nepal? . . .

Yes. For most nationalities, a visa can be obtained on-arrival into Kathmandu airport or border entry points or can be issued prior through an Nepalese embassies or consulated abroad. Upon arrival, be sure to have the correct USD amount in cash for your visa application and photos can be take through the kiosk machine available at the airport. Currently, a 40-day visa costs $40 and 90-day visa costs US$100. Please dp make sure that your passport has at least six months validity.

Do I need to arrive the day before the trip starts? And when should I book my flight to leave? . . .

We have got you all covered. All our trip programme itinerary already have an arrival day and a departure day built into them. Please plan to arrive at early hours on Day 1 of the itinerary. If you plan to come early and explore Kathmandu then you are welcome as Kathmandy offers tons of culutral experiences. If you would like a 1-2 days tours please do let us know and we can provide suggestions. Namas Nepal representative will meet and pick you up at the airport and the first of many team briefings will take place on the evening of Day One. Please do not book to depart before the scheduled final trip itinerary day. All the details will also be sent on the final email.

When should I book my ticket? . . .

We recommeend you to book 90-60 days prior to your trip start date to ensure your trip has met the minimum numbers and will operate. If you see a good deal and want to book your flights, then ensure that you can make changes to your ticket or you run the risk of losing it if we do have to cancel the trip. In such situations, we are usually able to help you book on to an alternate departure, either with us or another operator.

Can I get a cheap ticket online? . . .

Yes, please make sure you have a flexible departure date on your ticket. With the nature of our expedition and the places we do are not straight forward as we due to unforseen cisrumstances we might have to add 1-2 days extras to complete our expedition which will lead to extension of our itinerary. In those circumstances you do not want to end up paying extra for your departures.

Where do we meet? Will I be picked up? . . .

As you arrive in Kathmandu, Namas guide or representative will receive you at the airport with our shuttle car/van. If you are arriving before the scheduled trip start date and want to be receiced at airport then please do let us know in advance and we can make the arrangements to pick you up. Or there are airport taxies to help you.

What if I am arriving early or departing late? . . .

Namas team can make necessary arrangements or recommendations should you want to explore more of Nepal. Please do let us know in advance or even to our team in Nepal to help you with these matter.

Will you provide clothing and expedition equipment list? . . .

Upon Ama Dablam inquiry and confirmation email we will email you all the necessary documentation needed, including detailed equipment lists. If you have questions you have after reading through our equipment list you can always reach out to us and we can assist you in preparing for the trip as well as recommending and sourcing a range of clothing and equipment suitable for the climb. Our list are prepared with recommendation from our Sherpa climbing team.

Do I really need all the equipment on the equipment list? . . .

Yes, these lists have been carefully prepared and please bring everything on the list!

How heavy will my bagpack be? . . .

We will move our personal gear up the mountain during our acclimatisation rotation and store it in your assigned tents. Normally our packs are 18-25kg/40-55lb.

Logistical support for Ama Dablam Expedition. Kitchen staffs and porters? . . .

Logistical team during expedition. we will have 1 head chef with 1-2 helpers for small numbers ( 1-4 groups ). And 3 - 4 ( for 5 - 8 groups ). Porters numbers also depend on the number of climbers. We allow 40Kgs per client for this expedition and each porter will carry 30kgs per client. So, with the increase in weights per client the no. of porter team increases.

What kind of Tents will we use during Ama Dabalam Expedition? Brands/sizes and setups? **. . .*

We will use alpine 3/4 season tents from Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment and Kailas. Most of our client tents are 2 person tents but a single tent can be provided for any solo climbers joining the team. Although we recommend 2 people in a tent to have company and preserve the natural heat. Head of Sherpa team Sardar will be in charge of all the tent setups. On 2020 we will have new tents, burners, and other climbing equipment.

What type of sleeping bag is recommended for Ama Dablam Expedition ? Will extra blankets available if required? . . .

4 season goose downfilled sleeping bag that can handle upto -40C is recommended. This will be clearly stated in your recommended gear list but for Ama Dablam expeditions. We suggest buying a sleeping bag big enough to allow you to wear extra clothes in if it is especially cold .

How much weight will we carry on the expedition? . . .

Once we begin our expedition from base camp, our strong Sherpa team that will carry all the team equipment, food and ropes and you will carry all your personal gear. This can weigh around 18–25kg/40–55lb. So you will need to be at your best physical shape in order to climb the mountain with your bagpack load.

Will supplemental oxygen be provided during the expedition? Is this included in our expedition fee? . . .

Ama Dablam expedition climbers are not porvided supplemental oxygen, however our team do take oxygen as a medical backup. If you would like to request one then we can make the arrangements upon request. (Extra charges apply) as this is not included in our expedition fees.

What high altitude medication will be available on the expedition? Do we need to take tablets before/ during the trek? . . .

All our guides carry extensive medical kits including various medications for altitude illness. If you have a previous history of altitude illness then please discuss this with us and your physician, otherwise there is no need to take preventative medication before or during your expedition.

You need to bring any medications you regularly use (don’t forget to tell us about them), plus extras. Also bring a small first aid kit including a blister kit and mild headache medication for the normal altitude headaches.

Will there be any access to a satellite phone? If yes then what would be the charges for usage? . . .

Yes, on all our expedition our guides take satellite phones and you are welcome to use these at US$3 per minute. There will be a daily dispatches blog on our Namas adventure website, where your friends and family can follow your progress.

Is there internet throughout the expedition? . . .

Once you get hold of local Nepalese sim card, internet can be accessed throughout the trail all the way to Ama Dablam Base camp. Internet speed wont be as reliable once we go higher but we can expect some internet coverage. Once we start to ascend towards Camp 1 an higher there will not be any internet coverage.

Will there be any power source for charging batteries, etc. available throughout the expedition? . . .

All our expedition team is equipped with solar panels and battery charging stations. Our first priority wil always be to charge our radios, satellite phones and expedition electrical equipment. There is usually enough power to then charge your personal electrical equipment.

While on trek, tea houses will also have power available with with Asian plugs (needed) and offer recharging for a fee.

What is the best equipment for photography in alpine environments? . . .

As camera technology is changing and getting smaller and better, we recommed light and durable cameras for photography. If you are a serious photographer then you will have your preferences on camera gears but just for enthusiast to record and document your memory mirrorless cameras from SONY, Cannon and small action camera like gopro or insta 360 are recommended. Drone is gaining its popularity but please ask us information for drone use rules and regulation. For safety reason Nepal is very stict with drone use and we do not want it to be a hassle during our expedition days.