Understanding and Managing Khumbu Cough: Essential Tips for Everest Climbers
Gorakshep, Khumbu, Everest region
Khumbu cough is no new news to climbers and any climbers who are planning their Everest or Lhotse expedition should be informed about this sickness. Often experienced by climbers especially at Mount Everest or Lhotse expedition, is more than just an inconvenience—it can be a significant barrier to reaching the summit. As commercial Everest expedition runs only during the spring season, we tend see more cases during this season and slowly spreading down the region. This blog post delves into the nature of Khumbu cough, exploring its causes, prevention strategies, and management techniques. We have to be clear this is not a scientific data we can share and this article is drawn from our mountain operation experiences especially during Everest climb, we offer practical advice to help climbers minimize the impact of this condition, though we are not medical professionals.
What is Khumbu Cough?
Khumbu cough, or high altitude cough, is commonly reported by climbers ascending beyond 2,500 meters. It results from the cold, dry air found at high altitudes, which irritates the respiratory tract. Prolonged exposure to this harsh environment can lead to persistent, painful coughing that can cause complications such as rib fractures or even more severe respiratory issues.
Prevention Strategies: Preventing Khumbu cough starts with understanding and preparing for the conditions you’ll face in high-altitude climbing:
Moisture and Warmth: Keep your throat and airways warm and moist. Use a scarf or mask to cover your mouth and breathe through a buff to warm the air before it enters your lungs.
Hydration: Stay well-hydrated. Dry air can dehydrate you quickly, exacerbating the risk of developing the cough.
Acclimatization: Follow a careful acclimatization schedule to give your body time to adjust to the altitude. This can also help mitigate the symptoms of Khumbu cough.
Avoid Overexertion: Pace yourself to avoid excessive breathing rates, which can increase the irritation of your respiratory tract.
Diagnosis and Symptoms
Diagnosis of Khumbu cough is primarily based on symptoms, as it tends to develop in specific, high-altitude environments. Symptoms include a persistent dry cough that intensifies during the night and after exertion. If you experience these symptoms, it is advisable to consult with a guide or medical professional available on your expedition.
Treatment and Management
While there is no specific treatment for Khumbu cough, managing the symptoms effectively can improve comfort and climbing performance:
Rest and Recovery: Take ample rest if symptoms develop. Pushing through the cough can lead to more severe complications.
Warm Beverages: Sipping warm beverages can soothe the throat and reduce coughing bouts.
Medication: Over-the-counter cough suppressants and throat lozenges may provide temporary relief. However, always consult with a health professional before taking medication at altitude.
Descent: If symptoms become unbearable or are accompanied by other signs of altitude sickness, descending to a lower altitude can provide relief.
Health clinics in Khumbu region
Everest base camp - Everest Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA)
Lukla hospital
Namche Bazaar Clinics and Khunde Hospital
Pheriche HRA branch
Pro Tip: If you experience symptoms of Khumbu cough or any sickness during your Everest expedition, it’s best to consult with the Everest HRA team. Since helicopters are frequent in the region, consider taking a helicopter ride to Namche, Lukla, or even Kathmandu for treatment and recovery. Once you’re back to full strength, you can rejoin the expedition to catch the Everest summit window, which typically begins around May 10th. Stay safe and prioritize your health! 🏔️
Conclusion: Khumbu cough is a common yet challenging condition faced by high-altitude climbers. By taking preventive measures and managing symptoms effectively, climbers can reduce its impact. Remember, while we offer advice based on our mountaineering experience, consulting with medical professionals during your preparation and on the expedition is crucial.
Stay safe and climb smartly as you embark on your Everest expedition. Let us know your experiences or any tips you might have regarding Khumbu cough in the comments below!
Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy - Namas Adventure
Everest Base Camp - Expedition moments
The Everest, as in the mountaineering, is the greatest goal of climbing adventures. As a mountaineering challenge, it has attracted people to come and explore this breathtaking Himalayan mountain. The most desirable achievement accomplishing here is to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest 8848M.
There is a system that every Everest climber should follow to increase the likelihood of success. It’s based on experience, planning and skill but there are other factors too such as clear weather window, sheer persistence and training. Our expert team of Everest expedition strategists take all the factors involved and build a plan that ensures your dream becomes a reality, not just once but time and time again. Everest results from the combination of a great strategy and a system. If you decide to join an Everest expedition, you will be dealt with professional guides who will do everything they can to ensure you reach the summit. We give you a structured game plan to assure that you’ll get to base camp and one day, to the summit of Mount Everest.
Everest Base Camp 5346M
We take a slow trek through the world's iconic Everest base camp trek, acclimatising and getting the perspective of the local region. Our first goal will be to summit Lobuche east as our acclimatisation peak. After that our team heads towards our final camp to settle in Everest base camp.
If you want to invite your family or friends to join you until Everest Base camp or Lobuche East Peak climb (Beginner/Intermediate) then you can find more information on the link below or please mail us to make those arrangements.
For more information on Everest Base Camp (Click here)
Lobuche East 6119M climb for training and acclimatisation
We use Lobuche East peak as our acclimatisation and training peak. Mount Lobuche East 6119M is another popular 6,000M climbing peak in Nepal. This peak will provide us a perfect starting point to refresh our skills, climb a 6000M+ peak to get our body acclimated to high altitude, and enjoy the climb with our fellow expedition members. As this will be the group’s first climb together, this will give our guides a better understanding of where each climber are in terms of confidence, fitness and skills.
We will be using base camp and high camp before we summit Lobuche East mountain and head back to base camp and rest for a night there before we move towards Everest BC.
Everest Base Camp 5346M
Preparation will have already begun even before the arrival of climbers at the base camp. Our base camp manager and the team will have already set up our individual camps, storage camps, comms-media stations, toilet-showers, kitchen-dining tents, and Namas base camp HQ for all other briefing purposes.
Puja Ceremony
2024 Namas Everest expedition team at base camp after puja ceremony
All of our expeditions only begin after a Puja ceremony. Where a dedicated Lama Guru (head Monk) will conduct the ceremony. He will recite the prayers to The Mountain gods asking for well-being, safety, safe passage and a successful expedition. All climbers will be requested to take part in the ceremony as this is very important for the guides and your climbing gears will also be blessed during the puja.
Training at Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall. (Ladders, fixed lines training) 5486M / 17998ft
Training at Khumbu ice fall
After settling at base camp, this is where all the climbing team will reside for the next 40+ days. Climbing ladders to cross the great Khumbu icefall is the first real objective/technical challenge when climbing Everest. So, we focus a large portion of our training on getting used to crossing these ladders. Another part of our training will be climbing on the glaciers which are near to our base camp. Here we will further refine our skills by climbing vertical ice walls using fixed ropes and ice axe. We do our best to mimic the environment in the icefall and train walking on the step ladder step by step. By the time we start our way to climb Khumbu icefall to climb up to camp 1, all climbers will have a good understanding of crossing the ladders and will also be guided personally in real-time.
How many rotations: Each time we go from base camp to Camp 1 we will have to cross Khumbu ice fall.
When will climbers sleep here: No, we do not sleep here.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 1 Everest Expedition
Camp 1 is will be setup once Khumbu Icefall challenge is crossed. The camp is setup below the Nuptse in an icy and snowy surface. The route gets even from here onwards up to camp 2. This will be the first area where climbers will have to share tents and accommodate in an alpine environment.
How many rotations: 2 rotations
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly.
Camp 2 (6400M/20997ft)
Hike from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a fairly even one out of all the climb during the entire expedition. The route is a pass sitting right between Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse face right in front when climbers hike.
How many rotations: 2 rotation
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and when descending back from the summit.
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M / 23622ft+)
Camp 3 sits at a steep section of Lhotse's face. This climb and will be one of the most strenuous uphill climbs using fixed-line ropes from camp 2 to camp 3. Camps here are one of the most dangerous ones as they are set up in small ledges/pockets where it is suitable. We ask all our climbers to make sure their safety ropes are tied onto the main safety ropes as there have been many falls and incidents, particularly during nighttime.
How many rotations: 2 rotation
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and possibly when descending back from the summit if they are too tired to make it to camp 2.
South Col (Camp 4) (7906M / 25938ft)
This will the final camp before heading to the summit. The camp sits at 7906M just 100M below the Death Zone area. Climbers will be using oxygen bottles when they are in their tents as the air is very thin here. From the South Col to the summit it is about 1.7-1.9 miles and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. We will begin our summit bid just before midnight with a steep climb up the Southside of Everest. Upon reaching the Balcony at 27,500 feet, climbers turn West up the ridge to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step onto the Summit Ridge, and then to the summit.
How many rotations: None
When will climbers sleep here?: 1 night
Summit of Everest (8848.86M / 29031.69 ft)
Hillary ridge - Everest expedition
Our aim will be to stand at the summit around 7 - 10 am in morning. The climb to the summit will be one of the hardest and toughest part of the entire expedition. As we leave the south col, first we will have to climb a steep hill about 30-40 degrees to the balcony of the south side of Everest. From there with the support of fixed-line rope we jummar and ascend climbing on the southeast ridge to the south summit. Here we rest and replace our new O2 cylinder and after regaining our energy, climb to cornice traverse, then to Hillary's step, and finally reach the summit or roof of the world, Everest. For most climbers, once they climb the Hillary step it will roughly take 30min to reach the summit of Everest.
Once on the summit, we rejoice our moment, celebrate take pictures and soak it all in before we gather our moment and get ready to head back down to our camps. The duration of your summit depends upon how long the good weather window will remain open. Remember on any mountain climb the summit is only halfway done. Heading down is another dangerous part there have been many incidents. We slowly make our way through the same route to South Col camp with our aim to stop at Camp 2. The entire climb will be about 16 - 20 hours depending on the fitness level of climbers.
Are planning to climb and summit to the roof of the World one day? We run expedition to Everest every year (2023) taking all your climbing personal needs into accounts as well as implementing responsible and sustainable strategy in our expedition strategy. Our team is here to assist you in making your dream of climbing Everest being safe with tons of fun and being responsible & sustainable during our expeditions. Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to inquire.
Live Your Dream. Live Your Story
Insider tips to prepare for Everest Expedition
Wester cwm Everest Expedition. 2024 Everest climb
Hey folks, this is Bisesh, Chief Adventurer at Namas Adventure. As you prepare for your next major mountaineering endeavor, such as an Everest expedition, I'm excited to share some personal insights and valuable tips that helped me successfully summit Everest on my first attempt. I hope these suggestions will aid you in your preparations and contribute to your success on the mountain.
Preparing for an Everest expedition or any extreme altitude mounatin expeditions can be an overwhelming experience, given the abundance of information available on preparation strategies. It's crucial to understand that climbing Everest—or any high-altitude mountain—demands extensive experience, encompassing both triumphs and setbacks. You must acquaint your mind and heart with all possible outcomes. Remember, every climber is unique, and a generic training regimen won't necessarily enable you to perform optimally against these formidable peaks.
Now that you've tailored a training plan to your specific needs and are preparing with discipline, I'd like to share some personal strategies that supported my preparations and actual ascent. My hope is that you can adapt some of these tools and tips to tackle your challenges with greater finesse and derive more enjoyment from your climb.
These preparation strategies played a pivotal role in my successful ascent of Everest —even though I was afflicted with Khumbu cough and a fever just four days before the summit push, and was only at 50% of my health post-recovery.
To provide some context, I am a fit, athletic male in my mid-30s, currently residing in New York City. It doesn’t get more urban and densely populated than NYC. I trained rigorously 5-6 days a week for 5 months, dedicating 1.5 to 2 hours each day to my fitness regime. I continue to train with the same intensity as I prepare for the upcoming Annapurna 1 (Spring 2025) and K2 (Summer 2026) expeditions. Should I optimize my training methods in any way, I will be sure to update this blog post to share my latest insights and adaptations.
Training
I focused on enhancing my VO2 max capacity. I incorporated interval & muscular endurance training, along with plyometrics. These workouts are critical for increasing aerobic capacity, especially when preparing for high-altitude climbs where oxygen levels are significantly lower.
Specifically, I engaged in a structured interval training regimen. This consisted of 10 minutes of jogging in Zone 2 to warm up, followed by more intense segments: four sets of 3-minute runs in Zone 4, each set interspersed with 3 minutes of rest. Additionally, I included four sets of 30-second all-out sprints, again with 3 minutes of rest between each sprint. This combination of medium and high-intensity intervals was designed to push my aerobic system to adapt and improve.
I committed to this training schedule once a week for four months. Over time, this regimen significantly enhanced my VO2 max, equipping me with the stamina needed to tackle the rigorous demands of high-altitude climbing.
-
VO2 max, or maximal oxygen uptake, is the maximum amount of oxygen that an individual can utilize during intense or maximal exercise. It is measured in milliliters of oxygen used in one minute per kilogram of body weight (ml/kg/min). This measurement is considered the best indicator of an athlete's cardiovascular fitness and aerobic endurance.
The concept behind VO2 max is simple: it measures the efficiency with which your body can pull oxygen from the blood to produce energy. During exercise, your muscles require more oxygen to generate the energy needed to sustain activity. The more oxygen you can use during high-intensity activity, the more energy you can produce.
VO2 max is influenced by several factors, including genetics, training, age, gender, and altitude. Regular, sustained cardiorespiratory training can lead to improvements in VO2 max, as your cardiovascular system becomes more efficient at delivering oxygen to your muscles and your muscle cells become better at using that oxygen.
In sports science, VO2 max is used to:
Assess an athlete’s cardiovascular capacity and fitness level. Tailor training programs to improve endurance and performance. Evaluate the effectiveness of training regimens and monitor changes in fitness levels over time. A higher VO2 max allows athletes to perform more intense physical activity for longer periods, which is particularly important in endurance sports like running, cycling, and rowing.
Cold shower everyday and cold plunge 30F twice a month
Incorporating cold exposure into my training routine has been another critical factor in preparing for the harsh conditions of Everest. With the rising popularity of cold showers and cold plunges, I decided to embrace this trend—and it has proven immensely beneficial. Initially, I integrated cold showers into my training regimen during my Annapurna IV climb. Despite the initial discomfort and my reluctance towards the frigid water, I maintained discipline and subjected myself to daily cold showers.
Over time, not only did I adapt, but I also began to crave these showers, especially during the harsh winters of New York, which run from November to March. This practice significantly aided in acclimating to cold conditions.
Sauna 2-3 times a week. 20 min
I incorporated sauna visits into my routine 2-3 times a week for about 20 minutes each session. While saunas are known for their heat, they provided a vital counterbalance to the cold exposure. Post-training, the sauna served as an excellent recovery tool, offering cardiovascular health benefits and enhancing overall wellness—truly a win-win in my training program.
Intermittent fasting 5 days
Intermittent fasting also played a role in my preparation, with a regimen from Monday to Friday. At high altitudes, appetite can diminish significantly, and meals are often sparse. Training my body to function effectively while fasting mimicked the conditions I would face on the mountain, particularly between Camp 3 and the summit, where eating becomes a challenge. This adaptation was crucial during the strenuous stretches from Camp 2 to 3 and onto the summit.
Wim hof breathing technique
I also explored the Wim Hof breathing technique, practicing it 2-4 times a week, especially in the mornings. While it's hard to quantify the direct impact of this practice, deep breathing is essential at high altitudes. Emulating such conditions during the preparation phase likely provided a significant advantage. The technique proved especially useful when trekking to higher elevations and at base camps, helping to enhance my respiratory capacity and overall altitude tolerance.
Nutrition
Coke or sodas or fruit jelly drinks (during Expedition)
You might find this surprising, but an essential tip for high-altitude expeditions like Everest is to stock up on extra bottles of Coke for the higher camps. During your rotations to Camp 2 and Camp 3, try to include 2-3 bottles in your supplies. Then, for your summit push, leave a couple at Camp 4 and take a few with you to the summit. You’ll be incredibly grateful to have access to Coke at these elevations.
Coke or similar sugary drinks can taste surprisingly delightful and almost heavenly in the thin mountain air—trust me on this. After our summit push, as we descended back to Camp 4 and took some time to rest before heading down to Camp 2, we observed many climbers arriving from Camp 3. They were particularly eager for a sip of Coke, some even willing to pay a premium, driven by sheer desperation. So, remember: Coke, Coke, Coke—make sure you have it with you. It’s more than just a beverage up there; it’s a small luxury that can provide a big morale boost.
Protein powder meals and energy CHews
This aspect of preparation involves trial and error, and it’s crucial as you build up to an Everest expedition: make sure to test various kinds of meals. On the mountain, solid meals can become difficult to consume due to the extreme environment and altitude-induced appetite loss. An effective hack is to opt for quick, protein-powered meals, ensuring that you still receive the necessary nutrition without the struggle of heavy digestion.
One strategy I adopted was incorporating RecPak and Ka’Chava into my diet. These meal replacements are not only nutritious but also easy to prepare and consume in challenging conditions. They offer a balanced blend of proteins, vitamins, and minerals, which can be a game-changer when traditional eating becomes cumbersome. These meals provide a convenient way to maintain energy levels and nutritional intake when solid foods are less appealing or harder to digest. Testing different meal options before your expedition is essential to discover what works best for your body at altitude, ensuring you can maintain your strength and focus on the climb ahead.
Energy chews are another favorite of mine, especially during climbing. I prefer them over energy gels, which can freeze in extreme cold. Chews are incredibly handy; they're easy to carry, don't freeze, and provide a quick, substantial energy boost exactly when I need it. I've found them particularly useful during short breaks in climbing, as they are not only convenient but also effective in delivering that much-needed punch of energy. GU energy chews are my go to.
Khumbu cough and rest/recovery at lower altitudes
Khumbu cough and related sicknesses are almost an inevitable part of any Everest expedition. Most climbers experience these ailments during their journey, with the specific cause of such widespread occurrence not entirely understood. However, a plausible reason could be the close quarters and shared paths among climbers from various teams, facilitating the rapid spread of viruses.
If you find yourself feeling under the weather, which could indicate the onset of Khumbu cough or another sickness, I strongly recommend taking immediate action. Descending to a lower altitude, such as Lukla or even Kathmandu, can be crucial. Given the frequent helicopter flights servicing these areas, securing a ride to receive medical attention and recover at a lower altitude should be manageable. Returning with improved health can make a significant difference in your ability to continue the climb.
During our rest and recovery days, I experienced the onset of the Khumbu cough while we were taking a rest day in Namche Bazaar after we finished our final acclimatisation rotation. Unfortunately, other members of our team had already contracted the illness, and on the last day of our acclimatization period, I too fell ill. As we were scheduled to fly to base camp the following day, we decided to postpone our departure by two days due to my and other member’s health, which was at about 30-40% of its normal capacity.
On returning to base camp the next day stopped in Lukla, where I immediately felt a difference in the air quality and a resurgence of energy—suggesting that Lukla could be a viable option for recovery. This experience underscores the importance of listening to your body and being flexible with your itinerary to accommodate necessary health measures. Proper acclimatization and readiness to adapt plans are key to managing and overcoming altitude sickness and other health issues during high-altitude expeditions.
Rest and Recovery at lower altitude
Namche Bazaar 3430M
Our team uses a strategic acclimatization rest at Namche Bazaar for effective rest and recovery (R&R). After rotations to Camp 2 and 3, we helicopter from Base Camp to Namche to spend 3-4 days recuperating. This lower altitude offers thicker air and a chance to enjoy varied foods, significantly aiding in recovery. We found this R&R period essential before the final summit push, allowing climbers to rejuvenate physically and mentally. I highly recommend incorporating a similar strategy to enhance overall performance and summit success.
TEAM
By the time you are poised to attempt a commercial climb of Everest, you will likely have undertaken numerous preparatory climbs under the guidance of either a local Sherpa or an international guide. This is crucial, as Everest and other extreme altitude peaks subject climbers to intense emotional and physical challenges. During these preliminary climbs, your guide will have the opportunity to become intimately familiar with your strengths and weaknesses in mountainous environments. This relationship forms a vital bond that can prove indispensable when facing the toughest moments of the climb.
I can confidently say that the success of our expedition was significantly influenced by our guides, who had previously climbed with each team member, understood each person's capabilities, and knew how to motivate and push us effectively. The familiarity and trust built with our guides were crucial, especially in moments when we were on the brink of exhaustion. Therefore, it is essential to have a guide who not only knows you well but also has the ability to inspire and drive you forward when you feel like giving up. This connection can make all the difference in achieving your goal of reaching the summit.
Affermations
During the grueling push from Camp 3 to Camp 4, and then from Camp 4 to the summit, where winds reached a harrowing 40-50 mph, two specific affirmations proved crucial in helping me and my team persevere through the toughest moments.
The first comes from David Goggins, a man whose resilience and sheer mental fortitude are nothing short of inspirational. His mantra, “Who’s gonna carry the boats?” became a rallying cry for me when mental fatigue began to set in.
The second affirmation was a morning ritual: “It will get tougher, it will be harder, but today is not the day we give up. Today we march, one step at a time. You chose this, and it will be difficult. This is Everest. So today is not the day to give in.” During the climb this helped me, could not quantify then but as I now reflected back this was a powerful affermations that really helped me during the climb.
These affirmations not only bolstered our physical stamina but also strengthened our mental resilience, proving indispensable throughout the journey to the summit.
Bonus Suggestion: Express Climb
If you're capable, opting for an "Everest Express Climb" can be a highly effective strategy for conquering the world's highest peak. This approach is not for everyone; it requires meeting specific prerequisites and involves rigorous preparation.
To consider this strategy, you must first ensure you meet all the prerequisites. Specialized training is essential, which should include expert assistance.
There are several reasons to opt for the express route, but a key benefit is minimizing your exposure to the harsh conditions of the Khumbu region. This strategy is particularly advantageous as it reduces the time spent in extreme conditions, thereby decreasing the likelihood of illness. Being sick at high altitudes is challenging to overcome and can significantly impact your strength and recovery, even after you've recuperated. By shortening your time on the mountain through an express climb, you can potentially avoid these complications and maintain a higher level of health throughout your expedition.
I hope you found this blog article engaging and that the suggestions offered will assist you in preparing for your upcoming Everest climb or any other mountaineering expedition. Climbing mountains is undoubtedly challenging, but it stands as one of the most rewarding adventures that can deeply fulfill your soul. I trust that you will be able to utilize these tips, along with your own tricks, to enjoy a safe and successful climb.
Mountaineering is a close-knit community, and my wish is for everyone to have a successful and safe expedition, leaving you with feelings of contentment and joy.
Thank you and Namaste. I look forward to seeing you in the mountains. Let’s go live that daring story. After all, that is all we have.
Much love & Namaste 🙏🏼
Bisesh - Chief Adventurer
Namas Adventure
2024 Namas Adventure Everest Team.
How Much Does It Cost to Climb Annapurna 1? - Namas Adventure
Annapurna 1
Ready to take on the challenge of climbing Annapurna 1, one of the most formidable 8000M peaks known for its daunting challenges and avalanches? If you're planning to climb Annapurna 1, this blog post outlines the financial commitment required. At Namas Adventure, we offer two tailored programs to meet your needs: the Standard Program and the Express Program, available upon inquiry. Let’s explore the costs and what each program includes to ensure you're fully prepared for this unparalleled adventure.
annapurna 1 Expedition Overview
Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for Annapurna 1 climb:
Standard Annapurna Expedition: 35-40 Days
Express program (upon inquiry): 19 Days or less
These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.
Standard Expedition Costs
The Standard Annapurna 1 Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. Our all inclusive cost includes:
Cost: $35,000 per person
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.
Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides with over five guided summits at several 8000M & 7000M expeditions.
Helicopter Services: Acclimatisation hike point to Base camp and base camp to Pokhara
Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.
Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.
Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.
Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.
Annapurna Express Expedition Costs
The Annapurna Express Expedition is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.
Cost: From $49,000+ per person.
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.
Guiding Services: Highly experienced IFMGA guides and additional support or two NMA certified guides with significant 8000M, 7000M and 6000M climbing experiences.
Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 8 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.
Helicopter Services: Shared flight between Pokhara - Annapurna BC - Pokhara
Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.
Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.
Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 6 oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.
Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.
Additional Costs
From $10,000 - $20,000+
International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.
Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.
Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.
Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.
Summit Bonuses: $1,500 per guide.
Group Tips: $500 per person. Customary for support guides and kitchen staff.
Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers and mountaineering courses.
High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,
Everest Adds-On: $67000 P/P+
Conclusion
Embarking on an Annapurna climb is a decision that resonates deeply within the mountaineering community. Successfully completing this expedition not only challenges you physically and mentally but also earns you considerable respect among fellow climbers.
Our Standard Program offers a comprehensive yet affordable pathway, while the Express Expedition provides a quicker, more luxurious experience. Both options are designed to help you achieve your mountaineering ambitions with tailored support and amenities.
For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Annapurna Expedition Page and Namas Adventure’s Express Expedition Page.
Embarking on an Annapurna climb is a decision that not every climber makes lightly. The risks involved are well understood, and a key part of preparing for such a formidable challenge involves understanding the associated costs. This initial step is crucial as you plan and prepare for the journey towards the summit, ensuring you are fully equipped and informed for the adventure ahead.
Join us and take on Annapurna I with the Namas team. Let’s write your Annapurna 1 story.
Live Your Story
How Much Does It Cost to Climb Manaslu? - Namas Adventure
Archives from 2024 Manaslu Expedition
Climbing Manaslu offers an accessible entry into the 8000M category, making it a popular choice for climbers looking to take on an 8000er challenge. It is known as one of the more affordable options for 8000M expeditions. If Manaslu is part of your climbing goals, understanding the financial commitment is essential. Namas Adventure offers two distinct climbing programs for Manaslu: the Standard Program and the Express Program. Let's explore the costs and what's included in these popular Manaslu climbing programs to help you prepare effectively.
Manaslu Expedition Overview
Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for climbing Mount Everest:
Standard Manalsu Expedition: 30 Days
Manaslu Express: 21 Days or less
These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.
Standard Expedition Costs
The Standard Manaslu Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. The costs are divided into three tiers:
Cost: $18,850 per person
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.
Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides
Helicopter Services: Ktm - Samagaon. Samagoan - Ktm
Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.
Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.
Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.
Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.
Manaslu Express Expedition Costs
Manaslu express program is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.
Cost: From $33,000 per person.
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.
Guiding Services: Highly experienced NMA certified guide with several Manaslu summit and additional assistant guide
Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 10 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.
Helicopter Services: Transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, Lobuche, and Base Camp.
Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.
Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.
Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 6 personal oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.
Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.
Additional Costs
From $10,000 - $20,000+
International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.
Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.
Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.
Internet at Base Camp: $300+ for internet cards.
Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.
Summit Bonuses: $1,500 per guide
Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers
High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,
Annapurna IV 7525M Add-On: $12,000
Conclusion
Climbing Manaslu is a transformative experience, set in a mountain steeped in significant spirit. No 8000M climb is straightforward, and while Manaslu is less crowded compared to Everest, it serves as an exceptional gateway for those seeking a singular 8000M challenge. Our Standard program provides a comprehensive yet accessible approach, while the Express Expedition offers a luxurious, time-efficient alternative. Both are designed to help you achieve your mountaineering aspirations with varying levels of support and amenities, tailored to your needs.
For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Manaslu Expedition Page and Manaslu Express Expedition Page.
Want to climb atleast one 8000M mountain? Join us to Manalsu 8163M to take on your dream adventure. Let’s write your 8000M story with team NAMAS.
Live Your Story
7000M and 8000M expedition 2025 departures - Namas Adventure
Planning your next high-altitude adventure? Namas Adventure's 2025 departures for 7000M and 8000M peaks cater to climbers of varying skills, from entry-level enthusiasts to advanced level climbers. For more detailed information about each expedition, please click on the expedition name.
7000M
Entry Level
Perfect for climbers with basic technical skills and a good fitness level. Climbers must have experience at altitudes over 5000M - 6000M and are looking to push their limits further:
Intermediate Level
Ideal for those with some high-altitude experience, good technical skills, and fitness level.
Advanced Level
Suitable for climbers with advanced skills and experience.
8000M
Entry Level
For climbers with intermediate technical skills and great fitness. Must have previous experience at altitudes over 6000M, including at least one 7000M peak.
Advanced Level
The ultimate test for top-tier climbers, requiring advanced technical knowledge and peak physical fitness.
Whether you're looking to step up your climbing game or tackle the world's highest peaks, Namas Adventure has an expedition for you. Join us to reach beyond the clouds and achieve the extraordinary in 2025.
Inquire here
Namas Adventure Team
LIVE YOUR STORY
Exploring the Summits: How Many Climbers Have summited Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South?
Annapurna massif range seen from Pokhara. Annapurna south (left), Machhapuchre Fish tail (middle), Annapurna 1, Annapurna 4, Annapurna 2 and Annapurna 3.
The Annapurna Range, with its towering peaks and breathtaking landscapes, has long captivated mountaineers in search of the ultimate challenge. From the notorious dangers of Annapurna 1 to the awe-inspiring beauty of Annapurna South, and from the treacherous slopes of Annapurna 2 to the demanding ascent of Annapurna 3, capped by the elusive and shy summit of Annapurna 4, each peak holds its own tale of triumph, endurance, and exploration. But how many have successfully conquered these majestic giants?
In this blog, we delve into the total number of summit records on Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South.
SUMMITS (1955 -2024)
Annapurna 1, 8091M: 476 Summits
Annapurna 2, 7937M: 16 Summits
Annapurna 3, 7555M: 34 Summits
Annapurna 4, 7525M: 138 Summits
Annapurna South, 7219M: 35 Summits
The Annapurna Range stands as one of the least climbed and most revered regions in the Himalayas. While the Khumbu region draws the majority of climbers to its towering peaks, the Annapurna range offers something different—a raw, untamed experience reserved for those seeking true wilderness and personal discovery.
In the modern era, where accolades and records often take precedence, the essence of mountaineering can sometimes be lost. But climbing in the Annapurnas isn’t about simply conquering a summit; it’s about embracing the journey, the hardships, and the introspection that comes with each step. These remote peaks demand respect, and the path to the top is often a deeply personal one.
The challenge of the Annapurna climbs lies not just in their technical difficulty, but in the solitude and purity they offer. With fewer climbers and less attention, these mountains become a sanctuary for true explorers, where every ascent feels like a pioneering achievement. You may even find yourself among the few who have reached these exclusive summits, but that isn't the ultimate goal.
For those seeking even more, we invite you to look beyond Annapurna. Western Nepal offers another realm of untouched beauty and challenging climbs. Dhaulagiri and Putha Hiunchuli, towering and remote, present some of the most pristine and unexplored expeditions in the Himalayas. However, that’s a journey deserving of its own story—one we’ll dive into in a different article.
Mountaineering is, at its core, about falling in love with the process—the struggle, the beauty, and the unpredictability of the climb. In the Annapurnas, the journey will shape you far more than the destination. And that is the heart of what climbing in these majestic mountains is truly about.
LIVE YOUR STORY
NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM
NAMAS team near the final section of Annapurna 4 summit, Annapurna 2, 7937M summit seen behind .
Comparing 7000M Peaks: Which One is Right for Your Next Expedition?
Annapurna IV 7525M summit seen in the middle with Annapurna 2 on the left.
Perhaps you have completed several 4,000m to 6,000m summit expeditions and are now seeking a greater challenge. You might be exploring 7,000m mountains to enhance your high-altitude mountaineering experience, with aspirations of climbing Everest or one of the other 8,000m peaks. Alternatively, you may simply wish to immerse yourself in the pure exploration and remoteness that these high-altitude adventures offer.
Unsure on which 7000M peak to choose? In this blog post, we compare five prominent 7,000m mountain expeditions—Annapurna IV 7525M, Baruntse 7129M, Tilicho Peak 7134M, Himlung Himal 7126M, and Lenin Peak 7134M—to help you make an informed decision for your high-altitude journey.
1. Annapurna IV (7,525m)
Annapurna 4 base camp 4850M
Location: Annapurna Range, Nepal
Level: Advanced level
Technical Difficulty: High
Best Time to Climb: Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October)
Duration: 30 days
Key Features: Annapurna IV is a remote and lesser-climbed peak in the Annapurna range, known for its technical challenges. Climbers must have advanced skills in rock and ice climbing, as the route includes steep sections, exposed ridges, and deep snow. The peak's isolation offers a more immersive and adventurous experience, but it also demands excellent logistical planning. With only about 150 people ever reaching the summit, Annapurna IV is ideal for seasoned mountaineers seeking a quieter climb.
P.s. - Annapurna IV can be your expedition to prepare for Everest, Annapurna 1 or K2 expeditions.
Pros: Quieter, remote, and ideal as preparation for Everest or technical 8000m peaks.
Cons: Avalanche risk, technical sections, and steep terrain make it unsuitable for beginners.
2. Baruntse (7,129m)
Location: Barun Region, Nepal
Level: Intermedaite level
Technical Difficulty: Moderate to High
Best Time to Climb: Autumn (October-November)
Duration: 24 days
Key Features: Baruntse sits between the Everest and Makalu ranges, offering breathtaking views of both. It is popular among climbers preparing for lower 8000m peaks like Manaslu 8163M or Cho Oyu 8201M. The ascent becomes more technical after 6900m, particularly along the exposed summit ridge, which requires climbers to stay focused under challenging conditions. It’s a solid test for intermediate climbers who are ready for more demanding expeditions.
Pros: A great option for climbers seeking a moderate technical challenge before moving to 8000m peaks.
Cons: Exposed summit ridge demands advanced skills and leaves little room for error.
3. Tilicho Peak (7,134m)
Tilicho Peak 7134M on the left
Location: Annapurna Range, Nepal
Level: Intermedaite level
Technical Difficulty: High
Best Time to Climb: Spring (April-May) and Autumn (October-November)
Duration: 25-30 days
Key Features: Tilicho Peak offers a dramatic climb above Tilicho Lake, the highest lake in the world at 4900m. Though less famous than other Annapurna peaks, Tilicho is a technically demanding climb with steep rock scrambling, snow, and ice conditions at higher altitudes. This peak is for experienced climbers who have strong mountaineering skills and the endurance to navigate long, steep sections. Due to its remoteness, logistical planning is crucial, and only experienced teams should attempt this climb.
Pros: Stunning, remote, and less crowded with incredible views.
Cons: Requires advanced technical skills and careful planning due to the isolation.
4. Himlung Himal (7,126m)
Himlung Himal camp 1
Location: Manaslu Region, Nepal
Level: Entry level
Technical Difficulty: Moderate
Best Time to Climb: Autumn (September-October)
Duration: 25-30 days
Key Features: Himlung Himal offers a more moderate challenge, making it an excellent choice for climbers looking for an introduction to 7000m expeditions. The route to the summit is non-technical, consisting mainly of steady snow slopes and moderate crevasses. It’s a great option for those with limited experience who want to test themselves at high altitudes without the intense technical demands of other peaks.
Pros: Suitable for less experienced climbers with a straightforward route.
Cons: May not appeal to those seeking a more rugged, technical challenge.
5. Lenin Peak (7,134m)
Lenin Peak
Location: Pamirs, Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan
Level: Entry level
Technical Difficulty: Moderate
Best Time to Climb: Summer (July-August)
Duration: 21-24 days
Key Features: Lenin Peak is one of the most accessible 7000m peaks, attracting many first-time high-altitude climbers. Its long, glaciated slopes offer a relatively straightforward ascent with minimal technical sections, but the altitude is still a serious challenge. Climbers must be well-acclimatized to avoid altitude sickness, and the unpredictable weather—particularly strong winds—adds another layer of difficulty.
Pros: Ideal for beginners seeking a high-altitude challenge without intense technical demands.
Cons: Crowded during peak season, with risks associated with altitude and harsh weather.
Comparison Summary
Which Peak is Right for You?
For Advanced Climbers: If you're looking for a highly technical challenge, Annapurna IV and Tilicho Peak are your best options. These peaks offer steep routes with plenty of rock and ice climbing, perfect for climbers with significant experience and no interest in crowded routes.
For Intermediate Climbers: Baruntse provides a good balance between moderate and challenging sections, making it a solid choice for those with some technical skills who are preparing for lower 8000m peaks.
For Beginners: Himlung Himal and Lenin Peak are great for climbers who are new to 7000m expeditions and want to experience the challenge of high-altitude mountaineering without the intense technical difficulties of other peaks.
Choosing the right peak depends on your experience, skill level, and what you want to achieve. Whether you’re aiming for a quiet, immersive climb on Annapurna IV or looking for an accessible, non-technical adventure on Lenin Peak, there’s a 7000m peak out there for you.
For more details on these expeditions and to plan your next adventure, visit our 7000M expedition page.
NAMAS Adventure
Everything you need to know about Lenin Peak 7134M Expedition
1. When is the best time to climb Lenin Peak?
The best time to embark on a Lenin Peak 7134M expedition is during the summer, from July to August. This period offers the most favorable weather conditions, allowing for safer ascents and clearer views of the surrounding Pamir range.
2. How much does the Lenin Peak 7134M Expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas Adventure operating the expedition differently?
For detailed pricing information, please visit the Namas Adventure Lenin Peak page. We provide premium, all-inclusive climbing services designed to ensure a safe, successful summit while embracing local culture. As a responsible and ethical mountain adventure brand, we emphasize saustainable practices and deliver an unforgettable climbing experience.
How do we stay different? - While most companies choose to offer 1:3 ratio we offer 1:2 ratio to being with only selecting members who meet our pre-requisites and guide team will form of certified guide members from Nepal who will have led several 8000M, 7000M and 6000M expedition along with Lenin peak guiding experiences.
What’s included in your Lenin Peak booking:
1:1 or 1:2 certified Guide leader
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
2 nights before the expedition and 2 day after the expedition. Hotel in Bishkek and Osh. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra hotel bookings)
Experienced high altitude guide
Installed high altitude tents on 5300M and 6100M (2 persons in tent!)
Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
High altitude food
Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary);
Meeting/seeing off at the airport;
Transfer Osh – IMC “Pamir” – Osh
Lunch en route to/from IMC;
Accommodation in hotel for 2 nights in total during the program
Rent of walkie-talkie;
Registration with rescue team;
Ecological fee.
3. The first ascent of Lenin Peak 7134M
Lenin Peak was first summited by Karl Wien and his German team in 1928. The northwest ridge was their route to the top, and it remains the most frequently used route for climbers today.
4. How many climbing routes are there to Lenin Peak?
The most popular and safest route is the northwest ridge, offering a well-established path to the summit. While there are other variations, this route is ideal for climbers looking for a less technical but physically demanding ascent.
5. What experience do climbers need to climb Lenin Peak? Are guides necessary?
To climb Lenin Peak, climbers need prior experience on at least one 6000M peak and should be proficient in basic alpine mountaineering skills, including the use of crampons, fixed ropes, and techniques for traversing steep, icy terrain. Lenin Peak is a non-technical but high-altitude climb, so physical fitness and mental resilience are crucial.
While not as technical as other 7000M peaks, Lenin Peak requires the support of local guides. Namas Adventure provides certified guides to ensure your safety and guide you through the challenges of high-altitude mountaineering.
6. How many high camps are there on the Lenin Peak expedition?
There are three established high-altitude camps on Lenin Peak:
Camp 1 (4400M) – The first base camp after the trek.
Camp 2 (5300M) – Positioned at a strategic location for acclimatization.
Camp 3 (6100M) – The final camp before the summit push.
7. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Lenin Peak?
A well-paced itinerary is crucial for acclimatization and safety. At Namas Adventure, our itinerary includes multiple rotations between base camp and high-altitude camps to help your body adjust to the extreme elevation. These rotations are critical for a successful summit and minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
8. What training is required for the Lenin Peak expedition? Can you suggest a training plan?
Lenin Peak is graded as a AD+ climb, making it accessible to experienced mountaineers with a solid understanding of high-altitude environments. You’ll need to focus on endurance, core, and strength training. Long-distance running, cycling, and hiking with weighted backpacks are great ways to prepare. We recommend starting your training at least 3-4 months before your climb. For detailed guidance, check out our mountain expedition training blog.
9. How difficult is the Lenin Peak climbing expedition?
Lenin Peak is considered a non-technical climb, but it is challenging due to the altitude. The climb demands excellent physical conditioning, as you will be spending up to 16+ hours on summit day, with long stretches of trekking, climbing, and descending. Weather conditions, particularly high winds and cold, can make the summit day even more demanding.
10. What clothing and gear are required for Lenin Peak? Can I rent gear for this expedition?
For Lenin Peak, you’ll need high-quality, cold-weather gear, including double-layered boots suitable for 7000M peaks (e.g., La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa Phantom 8000). A comprehensive gear list can be found on our equipment blog.
We do not recommend renting gear locally, as quality control can be an issue. Instead, we advise purchasing gear from reputable brands before your expedition.
You can rent alpine bundle from our team, this will have to be transported from Nepal and additional cost will appply.
11. What types of food and hydration options are available on the Lenin Peak Expedition?
During the trek to base camp, meals are provided by local tea houses. Once at base camp, our team prepares a variety of meals, including freeze-dried options for higher camps. Proper hydration is essential—drink 4-6 liters of water daily to help with acclimatization. Our team will prepare waterfor you at high camps.
12. What insurance is required for the Lenin Peak Expedition?
We highly recommend having comprehensive travel insurance that covers high-altitude trekking, mountaineering. While there is no helicopter evacuations but extra our team will have an emergency response protocols that include medical kits, oxygen, and first aid training. Namas Adventure partners with Global Rescue for emergency services. In case of altitude sickness or any other emergency, supplemental oxygen will be your quickest way off the mountain. Ensure that your policy includes this coverage.
13. What’s next after completing the Lenin Peak expedition?
After successfully summiting Lenin Peak, you can aim for other high-altitude challenges such as:
These peaks offer the next level of technical difficulty and can serve as excellent choice for technical climbing and the 8000M expeditions can serve as a stepping stone into Everest, K2, Annapurna 1 or other difficult 8000M expeditions.
For more information, visit our Lenin Peak page or reach out to us at bookings@namasadventure.com.
“Great things are done when men and mountains meet; This is not done by jostling in the street.”
Challenge yourself, live your story, and dare great things with Namas Adventure!
How Much Does It Cost to Climb Mount Everest ?
If you've ever dreamed of conquering the world's highest peak, understanding the financial commitment is crucial. Climbing Mount Everest offers unparalleled challenges and rewards, and Namas Adventure provides two distinct programs to suit your needs: the Standard Program and the Express Program. Let's break down the costs and inclusions for these popular Everest climbing programs.
Everest Expedition Overview
Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for climbing Mount Everest:
Standard Everest Expedition: 45-53 days
Everest Express Expedition: 21 - 30 days
These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.
Standard Everest Expedition Costs
The Standard Everest Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. The costs are divided into three tiers:
Tier 1: $73,000 per person
Tier 2: $67,000 per person (does not include helicopter services)
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.
Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides with over five summits.
Helicopter Services: Included in Tier 1 services for transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, and Base Camp. Rest days in BC - Namche - BC
Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.
Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.
Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.
Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.
Everest Express Expedition Costs
The Everest Express Expedition is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.
Cost: From $95,000 per person.
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.
Guiding Services: Highly experienced IFMGA guides and additional support from Sherpa staff.
Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 10 to 12 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.
Helicopter Services: Transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, Lobuche, and Base Camp.
Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.
Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.
Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 20+ oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.
Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.
Additional Costs
From $10,000 - $20,000+
International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.
Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.
Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.
Internet at Base Camp: $300+ for internet cards.
Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.
Summit Bonuses: $1,500 - $3,500 per guide.
Group Tips: $500 - $1000 per person. Customary for support guides and kitchen staff.
Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers and mountaineering courses.
High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,
Lhotse 8516M Add-On: $18,000 for an additional 8000M climb.
Conclusion
Climbing Mount Everest is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that comes with significant costs. The Standard Everest Expedition offers a comprehensive approach at a more accessible price point, while the Everest Express Expedition provides a luxurious and expedited time-efficient option. Both programs ensure a pathway to achieving your mountaineering dreams with varying levels of support and amenities.
For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Everest Expedition Page and Namas Adventure’s Everest Express Expedition Page.
Embarking on an Everest climb is a monumental decision, and understanding the costs involved is the first step towards reaching your summit.
Namas Founder - Bisesh. Everest Summit 2024 Spring (May 20th)
Everything You Need to Know About the Annapurna 1, 8091M Expedition
Annapurna 1, standing at 8,091 meters (26,545 feet), is the 10th highest peak in the world and is renowned for being one of the most challenging 8000M+ expeditions. Climbing this peak is a significant achievement that demands extensive preparation, endurance, and skill. Successful expeditions to Annapurna one have become more frequent, but the mountain remains one of the most difficult among the 8000-meter peaks. This comprehensive guide will cover everything you need to know about the Annapurna one expedition, including the best time to climb, costs, unique offerings by Namas Adventure, historical context, and essential logistics.
When is the Best Time to Climb Annapurna 1?
Spring (March-May) is considered the best time to climb Annapurna 1. During this period, the weather is relatively stable, climbing conditions are optimal, and temperatures are more manageable, reducing the risk of severe weather disruptions. The clear skies and favorable conditions make this the ideal window for a successful summit.
Cost of Annapurna 1 Expedition
Our cost for the Annapurna 1 expedition is detailed on our (website - click here). This includes premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, focusing on your safety, successful summit, experiencing local culture, and having fun. Here’s a detailed list of what's included in your booking:
Certified Guide Leader: Certified guide leader to ensure safety and expert guidance.
Helicopter Services: Shared helicopter services from Pokhara to Annapurna 1 base camp and from Base Camp to Pokhara.
Accommodations: Two nights before the expedition in Kathmandu and one night after the expedition in Pokhara and Kathmandu hotel.
Permits and Fees: All necessary trekking and climbing permits.
Gear and Equipment: Expedition tents (single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps) and other essential climbing equipment.
Oxygen Supply: 2 X supplemental oxygen cylinders for client use.
Meals and Logistics: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner on trek and expedition days, along with lodge accommodation during the trek.
Support Team: A head chef and kitchen helpers, additional Sherpa support, porters, and a comprehensive first aid kit.
Waste Management: Dedicated high-altitude porters to transport waste from higher camps to Base Camp for proper disposal.
For a detailed breakdown of what is included in the cost, please refer to the Annapurna 1 expedition PDF
Unique Value proposition by Namas Adventure
Namas Adventure distinguishes itself with a strong commitment to responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountaineering practices. Here are some key highlights of what sets us apart:
Annapurna specialist: Our team at Namas Adventure excels in extreme altitude mountaineering, especially within the Annapurna region. With unparalleled local knowledge and highly experienced guides, we are among the best teams to climb with on Annapurna 1.
Local Expertise: We possess extensive local expertise and strong connections to ensure a seamless and efficient expedition. Our seasoned guiding team is integral to the smooth running of your journey, allowing you to focus on the climb and the experience.
Individualized Preparations/Planning: Members participating in our Annapurna 1 team undergo strict pre-qualification checks. Once members sign up, we gain deeper insights into each client's needs and create personalized preparation plans. We understand that each member has a unique set of strengths, weaknesses, and requirements, so our approach is tailored to address these individual aspects effectively.
Premium client Services: To enhance safety and comfort, we provide convenient helicopter services, including flights to base camp after acclimatization hikes in the Annapurna region. Upon completion of the expedition, we offer a return from base camp to Pokhara, ensuring a stress-free travel experience.
Waste Management: Namas Adventure implements strict waste management protocols to minimize our environmental impact. This includes the use of WAGBAGs at higher camps and transporting waste to designated landfill sites, preserving the pristine beauty of the mountains.
Additional guide support system,: We prioritize personalized attention and safety with a high guide-to-client ratio, 1:1 guide-to-client arrangement with additional support Sherpa team in the team. Additional Sherpa support further ensures that every client receives the guidance and care needed for a successful and memorable expedition.
History, Significance, and the First Ascent
The first ascent of Annapurna 1 was achieved by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. This historic climb marked the first successful summit of an 8000-meter peak.
High Camps and Acclimatization Strategy
Annapurna 1 expeditions typically have four high camps:
Base Camp (4,190m/13,747ft)
Camp I (5,150m/16,896ft)
Camp II (5,700m/18,700ft)
Camp III (6,500m/21,325)
Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)
Summit (8,091m/26,545ft)
Our team will conduct an acclimatisation hike before reaching the base camp and then conduct two rotations between camps 1,2 and 3. The most common route to the summit of Annapurna 1 is the Northwest Ridge route.
Which is the most dangerous section in the Annapurna 1 expedition?
The most dangerous section of the Annapurna 1 climb lies between Camps 2, 3, and 4. This area is particularly hazardous due to its vertical geography, which includes avalanche-prone zones, hard blue ice, and massive hanging seracs, making the ascent extremely challenging.
The steep and exposed south face of Annapurna 1 rises 3,000 meters from the base camp to the summit, making it one of the most perilous climbs in the world. This face is notorious for its high risk of avalanches and rockfalls, posing significant dangers to climbers. The steep terrain, combined with frequent avalanches in this zone, further increases the difficulty and risk involved in the ascent.
What can climbers expect during the summit push on Annapurna 1?
The summit push on Annapurna 1 begins from Camp 4 at 7,400 meters. Climbers start their ascent in the early hours, navigating steep, icy slopes under the cover of darkness to avoid daytime avalanche risks. The route involves traversing hard blue ice and climbing through a series of seracs, which are massive, unstable blocks of ice. As daylight breaks, climbers encounter the steepest sections, requiring technical ice-climbing skills. The final approach to the summit is a narrow ridge with breathtaking views on either side, leading to the peak at 8,091 meters. This gruelling and exposed climb tests every ounce of endurance and skill, culminating in the ultimate reward of standing atop one of the world’s highest and most challenging peaks.
Preparation for Annapurna 1 Expedition
Previous Experience Required
Climbers need significant high-altitude experience to attempt Annapurna one. Previous ascents of several 4000M - 6000M climbs and at least one or more 7000-meter peaks are highly recommended. Experience on other 8000M climbs is a bonus. This experience helps climbers understand the physical and mental demands of high-altitude climbing.
Training and Fitness Requirements
Climbers must be in peak physical condition to attempt Annapurna 1. A training plan should focus on endurance, strength, and flexibility. Essential components of the training regimen include:
Long-Distance Running: To build cardiovascular endurance.
Hiking with Heavy Packs: To simulate the weight carried during the climb.
Strength Training: To build the muscle necessary for climbing.
Flexibility Exercises: To maintain agility and prevent injuries.
Technical Skills
Confidence in essential climbing skills, such as ascending and traversing with crampons, using ice axes, and being proficient with rope knots, is crucial for the Annapurna one expedition. Mastery of techniques like jummaring and ascending steep, exposed, and uncomfortable sections is also vital. Whether climbing in the alpine style or classic mountaineering style, having technical knowledge and experience with larger peaks is necessary for a successful Annapurna climb.
Mental Preparation
High-altitude mountaineering is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Experienced climbers recognize that both success and failure are possible outcomes, and understanding this reality is essential. Experience plays a crucial role in building the mental resilience needed to face unforeseen challenges in the mountains.
On Annapurna 1, you will encounter tough climbing environments and difficult days that may make you question your decision to climb. During these times, it is vital to stay mentally strong and sharp, pushing yourself to go that extra inch to successfully and safely complete your expedition. Techniques such as meditation, visualization, and stress management can further enhance mental resilience, helping you navigate the challenges of high-altitude climbing.
Gear and Equipment
Investing in quality gear is recommended at any given expedition and Annapurna 1 is no ordinary case. Please find all the expedition gear required for the Annapurna 1 expedition in the link below.
Safety and Risk Management
Annapurna 1 has one of the highest fatality rates among the 8000-meter peaks due to its extreme altitude, avalanche-prone slopes and technical challenges. Ensuring safety involves:
Thorough Preparation: Detailed planning and rigorous training.
Experienced Guides: Hiring experienced guides with a proven track record. Especially in Nepal, local guides do the heavy work and you need a team of Sherpa guides who can do both the heavy lifting and safe guiding.
Safety Protocols: Strict adherence to safety protocols and being prepared for emergencies.
Health Monitoring: Regular health checks and immediate descent in case of severe altitude sickness symptoms.
Key Achievements and Records
The range of ages among those who have climbed Annapurna 1 is staggering. The youngest person to climb Annapurna 1 was Nima Rinji Sherpa at 17 years old, while the oldest was 60-year-old Carlos Soria Fontan from Spain. Several disabled climbers have also reached the summit, showcasing the inclusivity and determination within the mountaineering community.
Notable Incidents and Fatalities
Annapurna 1 has seen many fatalities over the years, primarily due to avalanches and falls. Despite these risks, the mountain continues to attract climbers from around the world. The fatality rate has been dropping in recent years due to improved safety measures and better preparation.
Importance of LOCAL Experienced Guides
Local experienced guides are essential for navigating the technical challenges and ensuring safety on Annapurna 1. According to Nepalese law, a local guide is required for high-altitude expeditions above 6,000 meters. Even experienced climbers benefit greatly from the local knowledge and expertise that these guides provide.
Sherpa guides are particularly vital in these expeditions, as they handle most of the heavy lifting, carrying all necessary logistics to higher camps 1-4, and play a key role in guiding clients. Their strength and expertise, along with their ability to coordinate with other team members, are crucial for the success of the Annapurna expedition or any extreme climbing endeavour.
In contrast, Western guides do not carry loads to the higher camps, highlighting the unique and indispensable role that Sherpa guides play in high-altitude climbing.
Nutrition and Hydration
Proper nutrition and hydration are crucial for maintaining energy and health during an expedition. Each climber should understand their personal meal plans for the higher camps. Although it can be challenging to eat at high altitudes when losing appetite and the challenges of cooking proper meals, freeze-dried meals, snack/energy bars, protein powders, and vitamin supplements are excellent alternatives.
Your guiding team will prepare water at the higher camps, but it's essential for climbers to drink 4-6 litres of water daily to stay hydrated and aid acclimatization. Beverages like Coke and fruit juices can also be helpful and enjoyable for staying hydrated and maintaining energy levels.
Insurance and Emergency Evacuation
Comprehensive travel and medical insurance are essential, covering high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuations. Helicopter evacuation is the primary method of emergency transport in the Annapurna region. Climbers should ensure their insurance policy includes this coverage. Along with evacuations, your insurance should cover the following
Cancellation or curtailment
Helicopter rescue
Repatriation
The altitude that you are expected to attain
Grade of trek/climb/expedition
Medical cover
Next climbing goals after Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition
K2 8611M
K2 8611M
K2 stands as a formidable challenge following the Annapurna 1 expedition.
Challenge yourself to a new level with a combined 8,000-meter expedition to both Everest and Lhotse in a single journey.
Or take on the challenge of a double Annapurna climb by summiting both Annapurna 2 and 4, part of the stunning Annapurna massif.
Conclusion
Climbing Annapurna one, 8091M is a monumental achievement that requires meticulous preparation, unwavering determination, and respect for the mountain. With Namas Adventure, climbers can focus on the challenge and enjoyment of the climb, knowing that every detail is taken care of. Proper planning, expert guidance, and a commitment to safety and sustainability ensure a successful and memorable expedition.
For more information and to book your expedition, visit our Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition page.
“On Annapurna, every step tests your limits, but it's in those moments of doubt and struggle that you discover your true strength and resilience. The mountain demands respect, and in return, it offers the rarest of rewards: a deeper understanding of yourself.” - Maurice Herzog, Annapurna, First Conquest
LIVE YOUR STORY
Visual journey Everest 8848.86 Expedition Nepal
Early reminder - Click to enlarge on images
Climbing Mount Everest is not just an expedition; it's a breathtaking journey through some of the most visually stunning landscapes on Earth. From the ascent through the Khumbu Icefall's towering seracs to the vast, snow-covered expanse of the Western Cwm, each phase of the climb offers unique, awe-inspiring vistas. The thrill of ascending past the South Col into the thin air of the "Death Zone" combines a mix of fear, exhilaration, and awe, as climbers are surrounded by the world's highest peaks piercing the sky. Reaching the summit rewards adventurers with a panoramic spectacle of rugged peaks under a pristine sky, where the sheer majesty of nature is palpable, making the grueling climb a profoundly transformative experience.
Lukla to Lobuche village
Our Everest expedition journey begins in the cultural city of Kathmandu. Here, we meet the team, conduct expedition briefings, and perform a final gear check. After two days, we fly to Lukla via helicopter and start our beautiful trek through the Khumbu region, visiting picturesque villages like Namche, Phortse, Pangboche, Dingboche, and finally Lobuche.
Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu via helicopter
Lobuche East Acclimatisation
Our first acclimatization rotation is at Lobuche East Peak, reaching an altitude of 6,119 meters. This climb helps us practice technical skills and properly acclimatize before heading to Everest Base Camp.
Learn more about Lobuche East 6119M peak climbing here.
First Everest acclimatisation, Lobuche East Peak 6119M
Base Camp 5436M
Base Camp is our home for the entire expedition. We conduct puja ceremonies, and acclimatization rotations, and enjoy a well-equipped camp setup. Facilities include a kitchen, dining area, rest dome tent, communication tent, and toilets. We will also acclimatize at Kalapatthar and Pumori High Camp (5,600m) while waiting for the summit ropes to be fixed.
Khumbu Ice Fall
Traning at Khumbu Ice Fall
The SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) team fixes the icefall route, and we spend a day training near our base camp. We practice climbing techniques, ladder navigation, jumaring, and abseiling. This refresher training ends with some fun ice climbing on the glacier.
Ice fall route to camp 1 (Max 8 hours)
Once the SPCC announces that the route is fixed, we begin our climb through the icefall to Camp 1. Our first rotation helps us acclimatize and familiarize ourselves with the challenging icefall route.
Camp 1, 6100M
Camp 1 is set up on terraced ice walls, offering stunning views of Everest 8848.86, Lhotse 8516M, and Nuptse 7861M. We spend two nights acclimatizing here before moving to Camp 2.
Camp 1 to Camp 2, 6500M (4 - 5 hours)
The climb to Camp 2 is relatively easy, following a zigzag flat surface and avoiding crevasses. We aim to reach Camp 2 early to avoid the intense sunlight.
Camp 2 - Camp 3, 7100M+ (4-6 hours)
The climb to Camp 3 starts with a flat hike to the base of the Lhotse wall, followed by a steep, vertical ascent. Camp 3 is set up halfway through the Lhotse face wall.
Tiny black dots of climbers moving to camp 3
Camp 3 - Camp 4, 7950M (8-10 hours)
We begin a further vertical climb to Camp 4, passing the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur. This is a tough day with little opportunity to rest
Everest Camp 4
Camp 4 - South Balcony, 8400m (4 - 6 hours)
Starting early, we push for the summit, moving through the Everest South Col route. The views from the South Balcony are spectacular, offering a glimpse of the Tibetan plateau and the Himalayas.
Camp Hillary Ridge, 8790m (3-4 hours)
The climb above the South Balcony towards the South Summit is all uphill before reaching the iconic Hillary Ridge. The Hillary Ridge is exposed and uneven. Climbing higher up the ridge leads to the summit of Everest, the highest point on Earth. The panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, and Kanchenjunga are unparalleled, making the grueling climb worthwhile.
Summit 8848.86M
Summit of Everest 8848.86M
Descend. Going up is optional, coming down is mandatory.
Reaching the summit of Everest 8848.86, the highest point on our planet, is an unparalleled experience. On a clear summit day, the panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, Kanchenjunga, and countless other 7000m and 6000m peaks are truly breathtaking. This unique feeling is known only to those who have made the climb.
We offer exclusive small team expeditions (8-12 climbers) both Standard and Express expedition options on both the South and North sides of Everest (beginning in 2026). If climbing Everest is your dream, join our dedicated and expert team to make it a reality.
Is summiting Everest/Lhotse your ultimate dream goal adventure? We have departures every spring. For more information on our Everest expedition or any of our other expeditions, please visit our website.
Feel free to call or WhatsApp us at +1 347-476-9547, or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com. We look forward to helping you achieve your mountaineering dreams.
Let’s write you top of the world story.
Live your Story
Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition
Everest Expedition 8848M
Note - Mt. Everest is officially a little higher. 8848.86M / 29,031.69FT (2020 new measurement)
1. When is the best time to climb Mt. Everest?
Spring (April-May) is the best time to climb Everest. All major commercial expeditions are organised during spring.
2. How much does Mt. Everest expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With our team, Namas Adventure team, your Everest expedition costs (website - click here). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. 🚁 Helicopter services to Lukla and rest day rotations BC - Namche Bazaar - BC and return to Lukla after your summit. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture, and having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holidays and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
🚁 Shared helicotper Kathmandu to Lukla. BC to Kathmandu and to Kathmandu.
🚁 to Namche Bazzar for 3-4 days and fly back to BC
✈️ Kathmandu or Ramechap - Lukla - Kathmandu or Ramechap (for members without helicopter option)
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff).Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu - Lukla. Base Camp - Namche Bazaar - BC. Base Camp - Lukla (Once the expedition ends)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
2:1 or 1:1 Guide/client ratio
1 Additional Sherpa Support for every 2 climbing members
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. Single room. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents, a single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
8 or 16 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use
60 kgs personal weight
Meals for Camps 1 - 4
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
The arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. How is namas operating Mt. Everest expedition differently?
We will have a dedicated high-altitude porter(s) to transport our waste from Camps 1 and 2 to Base Camp. The client-leading Sherpa team will assist in bringing the waste down from Camps 3 and 4 to Camp 2 during rotations and the summit descent.
WAGBAG
All members are required to bring a wag bag for use at higher camps and to carry their wag bags down to Base Camp for proper disposal. While this might seem standard practice, not every company does this. We have been implementing this protocol since our first Everest expedition.
Once waste reaches Base Camp, it will be securely sealed and transported via yak down to the valley for proper disposal at a designated landfill site. We firmly believe that when conducting expedition operations in our mountains, we have a moral duty to protect the environment and keep it clean for future generations.
There is a growing concern about pollution and waste being left on the mountains. This is a legitimate concern that we share. In line with our commitment to sustainable values, we are implementing these waste management strategies and continuously improving our program to address this issue.
We appreciate your cooperation in maintaining the pristine condition of our beautiful mountains.
4. The first ascent and debate
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition led by Lord John Hunt from the Nepal south col side. There is also the debate on whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the top of Everest from North side (tibet), on the final push of the 1924 expedition. They went missing soon after. No one knows whether they reached the top, a feat that, if proved, would rewrite climbing history.
5. The oldest and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest
The range of ages among those who have climbed Everest is staggering. The oldest person was Yuichiro Miura from Japan at 80 in 2013, while the youngest was American Jordan Romero at 13 in 2010.
A number of disabled climbers have reached the summit, including blind American Erik Weihenmayer in 2001 and double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand in 2006.
6. How many people have died on Everest?
Sadly 308 people have died on Everest, between 1922 and 2021. 165 have died on the Nepali side, while the remainder died on the Tibetan North side.
On 18 April 2014, 16 high-altitude local workers, including 13 Sherpas, were killed in the Khumbu Icefall below Camp 1, following a serac collapse on the mountain’s west shoulder. It was the worst single loss of life in the mountain’s history.
Despite this tragic loss of life, the fatality rate on Everest has been dropping in recent years, both for foreign climbers and hired high-altitude workers. According to the Himalayan Database – a useful resource for research on Everest – there were 61 deaths between 1950 and 1999 among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 1.52%. Between 2000 and 2014 there were 31 fatalities among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 0.57% – based on the number of journeys through the icefall.
7. Who holds the most Everest summit record?
Nepalese Sherpas hold the record for the most ascents. Kami Rita Sherpa X 29 summits and on second Ngima Nuru Sherpa X 22 summits.
8. How many climbing routes are there to climb Everest?
There are seventeen different routes to climb Everest. The two most famous and standard routes are South Col from Nepal and North Ridge from Tibet.
More detailed climbing routes on Alan Arnett's blog: https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12/28/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2018-edition/
Image from Alan Arnett Blog site
9. What experience do climbers need to climb Mt. Everest? Are guides necessary to climb Mt. Everest?
If you are a total beginner then you will definitely want to check out our Road to Everest program.
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 7000M and 1 X 8000M+ of any alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mt. Everest. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get the wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
For intermediate experience level climbers with no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience we highly suggest you build and gain the right experience before committing to climb Everest. Patience and right skill and experience is key and mostly the difference between death and survival in Everest.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
10. How many high camps are there on Mount Everest?
Strategically with Everest expedition we will have 4 high altitude camps.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 2 (6400M/20,997ft)
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M/23,622+ft)
South Col or Camp 4 (7906M/25,938ft)
11. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Mt. Everest expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
On our Everest Expedition, our team will climb Lobuche East 6119M for their acclimatization/training peak and we will strategically conduct several rotations between Camp 1 - 3 to acclimatise properly.
During the main expedition, our base camp will be fully stationed and extra facilities will be available. We will conduct training day and several rotation to acclimatise during our expedition. More details are on our Everest climbing strategy.
Note - If you want to shorten your Everest (Express) itinerary to 45 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
12. What training is required/experience for Mt. Everest expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Everest is the ultimate climb for many and by no means is an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M and 1X 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the ice fall or even the high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
13. How hard is Mt. Everest climbing expedition?
Everest expedition is graded at E / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 45 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Everest base camp our first objective challenge of navigating the great Khumbu icefall begins, mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, climbing on ladders just between the crevasse and ascending up the huge icefall to camp 1. As we go into higher elevation breathing will be challenging but with proper rotation acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment. You can expect to climb around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp 3 or camp 2 and then descend towards base camp the next day. Our teams will already have set up Everest base camp and the remaining 4 camps before client members reach there on their rotation and climbing days. Training walking on ladders, ice climbing and rotations are all meant to prepare you and acclimatize you for your summit. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mt. Everest expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mt. Everest expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Everest Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Mt. Everest Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our Everest base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
15. What trip insurance will I need for Mt. Everest Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
16. Next climbing goals after Mt. Everest Expedition climbing
Everest expedition being one of the most sought out expedition is also one of the expedition with the most organised facilitated expedition. After completing your Everest expedition successfully there are are other mind boggling and challenging/adventure filled expedition which we can recommend.
1. Annapurna 1, 8091m
The iconic Annapurna 1, is known for being one of the difficult and dangerous 8000er to climb.
2. K2, 8611M
K2, another dangeours and difficult second highest peak in the world.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Other related articles:
Intermediate level 7000M+ Mountaineering Expeditions - Namas Adventure
In this article, we aim to introduce you to the thrilling world of 7000-meter intermediate-level expeditions. These remote climbs offer a unique blend of adventure, challenge, and joy, with fewer summits compared to their higher counterparts. A perfect mission for intermediate-level climbers, these expeditions provide an exciting opportunity to push your limits and conquer towering peaks. While 7000-meter peaks may not boast the same bragging rights as 8000-meter summits, they offer a special experience for those who seek pure joy in thin-air alpine challenges and push themselves to extreme altitudes. Whether you're testing your skills or simply marveling at the wonders of nature, embarking on a 7000-meter expedition promises an exhilarating journey filled with excitement and achievement. Below, we'll explore some of the best intermediate-level 7000M peaks that we've had the privilege of exploring, providing you with valuable information to help you plan your next adventure. We look forward to the opportunity to serve you on any expedition you choose to embark on.
Note - We will continue to expand and update our list of peaks as we explore more 7000-meter peaks in the years to come.
Baruntse 7129M
First on the list for intermediate 7000-meter-plus peak is Mount Baruntse. Standing at 7129 meters, Baruntse is conveniently located between the Khumbu region and the towering peak of Makalu (8646m). Mera Peak (6476m) serves as an excellent acclimatization peak before tackling Baruntse, and it can also be accessed via the Ampahu Lhabtas pass (5800m). The climb itself involves setting up two high alpine camps, with relatively fewer objective dangers, offering climbers a high success rate. Most successful summit attempts occur during the autumn season climb.
Pre-requisite requirements include climbing experience on peaks such as Lobuche East and Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu Three Peaks or Annapurna Three Peaks, Alpamayo, Mont Blanc, Zermatt, or other similar-grade mountains. These experiences will help prepare climbers for the challenges of Mount Baruntse.
Be ready for a very cold base camp.
Tilicho Peak, standing at an impressive 7134 meters, presents a thrilling yet fulfilling challenge for climbers seeking technical ascents in the 7000-meter peak range. The journey begins with a scenic trek through the Annapurna circuit, leading to the stunning Tilicho Lake, the highest lake in the world at an elevation of 4910 meters.
Located north of Manang in the Annapurna Region, Tilicho Peak boasts a majestic northeast ridge covered in snow, offering panoramic views of the high Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east. Nearby lies the mystical land of Mustang to the north.
To undertake this adventure, climbers should meet certain prerequisites, such as experience on peaks like Alpamayo, Khumbu Three Peaks, or Annapurna Three Peaks, Himlung Himal and have mixed climbing grade 2-3 or ice climbing experience WIII-IV.
The standard climbing route follows the northwest shoulder, with Base Camp situated at 4800 meters at the lake's northwest end. With fewer climbers in the Annapurna mountain range, adventurers can enjoy the breathtaking landscape almost exclusively to themselves.
KHAN TENGRI 7439M
Khan Tengri 7439M, is located in Kazakhstan (highest peak). This breathtaking mountain falls on the Tien Shan mountain range of Central Asia (boundaries between Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and the Uygur Autonomous Region of Xinjiang, China), Khan Tengri offers an exhilarating challenge for intermediate climbers seeking an unforgettable adventure.
Pre-requisite requirements for this expedition include, Lobuche East & Island Peak, Khumbu 3 Peak or Annapurna 3 Peak, Alpamayo, Himlung Himal or expeditions with similar grades
Climbing Khan Tengri presents a unique set of challenges, blending technical skill with physical endurance. This expedition is also known for gaining altitude rapidly and objective dangers of avalanches are higher too making it one of the peaks with at least 7000M summits with the amount of climbers at the peak each season. Aspiring climbers should expect to navigate steep slopes, crevasses, and changing weather conditions. The weather in Khan Tengri is known for its notorious nature and is unpredictable, with temperatures dropping drastically and strong winds posing additional obstacles. However, with proper preparation and guidance, climbers can overcome these challenges and reach the summit.
Conclusion
Embarking on a 7000-meter intermediate expedition is a journey filled with challenge, adventure, and personal growth. Each of these peaks presents formidable sets of mixed challenges, combining technical prowess with classic mountaineering skills, all while demanding both physical and mental resilience. From the towering peaks of Baruntse to the technical ascents of Tilicho Peak, every expedition offers climbers the opportunity to push their limits and conquer remarkable heights.
As we continue to explore more peaks and expand our experiences, we eagerly anticipate sharing more adventures with you. Whether you're drawn to the thrill of high-altitude climbing or simply captivated by the beauty of the world's tallest mountains, there's an expedition waiting for you.
We embark on select peaks yearly and would be honored to have the chance to take you on one of these remote and less summited expeditions. Together, we can create unforgettable memories and face the challenge of the mountains, discovering just how far you can push yourselves and leveling up for even greater adventures. Dream big, prepare diligently, and let's make this climb together.
Let's go, LIVE YOUR STORY
Climbers Guide: Annapurna IV or Annapurna 4, 7525M
Annapurna IV, false summit 7300 and real summit 7525M (middle top)
MOUNTAIN OVERVIEW
Name: Annapurna IV or Annapurna 4 (Link)
Elevation: 7525M/24688FT
Co-ordinates: 28°32′15″N 84°4′58″E
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/Autumn, 0 - 20)
Difficulty grading: TD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Location: Annapurna region. Humde, Manang.
Parent Mountain: Annapurna massif
Acclimatisation Rotation: 1 rotation
Camps: 4 high camps
Summits: 1 Fore Summit / 1 Main Summit
Country: Nepal
ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN
Annapurna IV, standing at 7,527 meters, presents an ideal mountaineering challenge for climbers seeking a rewarding ascent with manageable technical requirements. Situated within the renowned Annapurna massif range, it occupies a prominent position between Annapurna II (7,937 meters) to the west and Annapurna III (7,555 meters) to the east.
Unlike its neighboring peaks, Annapurna IV offers a climbing route with fewer inherent dangers and a semi-technical nature, making it accessible to climbers with moderate experience levels. Within the Annapurna massif range, it is recognized as the least perilous and least technically demanding summit.
Despite its exceptional attributes, Annapurna IV remains relatively less frequented compared to other peaks in the region. However, its allure lies in its lesser-known status, offering climbers the opportunity for a unique and memorable ascent amidst the breathtaking Himalayan landscape.
HISTORY
Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.
HOW TO GET HERE?
There is one main route to get to Annapurna IV Base Camp.
Via Humde village, Manang
Manang village, acclimatisation hike 3519M
Route to Annapurna IV Base Camp 4800M - 4850M
We highly recommend an acclimatization trek to Manang village at 3,519M, before hiking up to the AIV base camp. Climbers will navigate through lush pine forests and uphill terrain heading toward base camp. Climbers will have to hike up the steep hill and moraine to reach the Annapurna IV base camp situated at 4,800 meters.
Set against the backdrop of the majestic Annapurna massif, the Annapurna IV base camp offers a picturesque setting with panoramic views of Annapurna II, IV, and III. The flat surfaces of the hill provide ample space for setting up multiple camps, while nearby glacier lakes and streams serve as reliable water sources for expedition use.
Annapurna IV, Base Camp, 4800M - 4850M
Route to Camp 1 5500M. 5 - 7 hours
Traversing the moraine glacier, climbers will ascend to the base of the mountain. The journey to Camp 1 entails a challenging ascent up a steep, rocky slope. To assist climbers, a fixed line will be established by the team, facilitating vertical climbs with inclines ranging from 60 to 80 degrees on sharp rock slabs. Negotiating this rugged terrain involves scrambling, jummaring, and traversing exposed sections of the mountain—a crucial initial technical phase of the ascent.
Expeditions conducted during the spring season should anticipate encountering a substantial amount of snow compared to expeditions in autumn.
Camp 1, 5500M
Route to Camp 2, 5500M - 5600M. 5- 6 hours
The ascent to Camp 2 commences with a challenging uphill climb of loose rocky terrain before climbers reach a designated crampon point. Here, team members secure their crampons in preparation for an 80-degree steep climb across icy and snowy terrain.
Climbing towards camp 2, the route carefully avoids areas prone to avalanches, it skirts the left side of the mountain, where avalanche activity is more common. Despite initial apprehensions, climbers can rest assured that the climbing route is designed with safety in mind and is not susceptible to avalanches. Although a few crevasses may be encountered along the way, they are manageable, either by navigating around them or making calculated leaps across. It is essential for climbers to remain securely attached to the fixed line throughout the ascent.
Offering breathtaking views of the Annapurna wall and the expansive glacier, this climb presents a picturesque and rewarding experience amidst the awe-inspiring scenery of the Himalayas.
Annapurna IV Camp 2 (5500M - 5600M)
Camp 2, 6500M
Situated on a compact, level expanse of the mountainside, this camp offers protection from strong winds originating from the north and northeast sections of the mountain range. Prepare to be captivated by the breathtaking panorama unfolding before you. From this vantage point, the majestic peak of Manaslu, towering at 8,163 meters, commands attention in the distant horizon. Additionally, the formidable wall of Annapurna II dominates the landscape, extending far into the leftward vista, where the impressive silhouettes of Himchuli and the Chulu ranges adorn the skyline..
View from camp 2. Annapurna II 7937M and Manaslu 8163M in the far distant.
Route to Camp 3 (6 - 7 hours)
Upon departing from Camp 2, climbers will immediately face a challenging ascent up the headwall, marked by a steep incline. Following the climb past two prominent boulders, climbers will encounter a sizable crevasse directly ahead. While manageable, this crevasse presents a notable obstacle, with plans for ladder crossings in future expeditions should the opening widen.
Upon successfully navigating the crevasse and ascending another incline, climbers will find themselves traversing across a vast expanse of snowfield. After approximately 1.5 to 2 hours of rigorous climbing, Camp 3 comes into view, offering a welcome respite amidst the stunning mountainous terrain.
Camp 3, 6600M
Positioned on the expansive shoulder of the mountain, Camp 3 offers 360 views of the surrounding mountains. Fishtail (Machhapucchre) mountain is directly to the north-east along with Annapurna 1 and south. With a sweeping view of a significant portion of the mountain directly ahead, climbers have the option to strategize their summit route either along the mountain's slopes or via its southern aspect. Given the complexity of this vast slope and the absence of marked routes typical of more commercialized mountains, the presence of experienced leaders and skilled route setters is imperative.
Navigating this terrain demands a high level of expertise, as the route may not be easily discernible, and few climbers are likely to traverse it. Additionally, certain areas may pose a risk of avalanches, underscoring the importance of proficiency in navigation and avalanche detection. With the guidance of seasoned professionals, climbers can confidently navigate the challenges of Camp 3 and proceed with their ascent toward the summit.
Annapurna IV Camp 3 6600M
The chaos to navigate to make it to the summit.
Route to Camp 4, (6 - 8 hours)
Embarking from Camp 3 towards Camp 4 involves traversing snowy fields and negotiating uphill slopes before descending across snow fields. The subsequent grueling ascent presents a continuous uphill climb toward the mountain's shoulder, requiring precise navigation skills from route setters.
This route offers teams two challenging options: a direct push to the summit from Camp 3, with an overnight stop at Camp 4 on the return, or a camp at Camp 4 followed by a summit push before returning to Camp 3. Camp 4, positioned at 7000 meters altitude on a flat surface, demands extra caution due to potentially windy conditions.
Camp 4 can be on the setup on the shoulder (middle) of the mountain.
true Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M to Camp 4 (7000M). 10-12 Hours
Climbers need to prepare themselves mentally for a lengthy, steep, and arduous journey to the summit. The ascent from Camp 3 to the summit and back typically spans 12-14 hours. Following departure from Camp 3, climbers face a daunting 1000-meter climb characterized by its steepness and length, making it a formidable challenge.
Safety measures include the installation of fixed lines along perilous and overhanging sections of the mountain walls. Weather permitting, summit views offer a breathtaking panorama encompassing the entire Annapurna massif range, including Annapurna I, II, III, Gangapurna, and Tilicho Peak, as well as prominent peaks like Manaslu (8163 meters), Machhpucchre, Ganesh Himal, and Dhaulagiri.
Upon completion of the summit, the objective is to return safely to Camp 4. Camp overnight, rest for a night and then an early downhill morning to base camp, which is expected to be a long 8-10 hours descend from the mountain, bringing our expedition to a conclusion.
Namas Adventure team members at Annapurna IV 7525M true summit. This one will be for life time memories. What a climb and pure test of grit, will and mental toughness.
Watch full Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition video
Feel inspired to embark on a 7525M remote expedition with not many climbers? Let us be your guide to remote mountain peaks in the Himalayan region, including the challenging Annapurna IV at 7525 meters. Our specialized team excels in safely accessing and navigating these pristine mountain territories, opening up new possibilities for exploration and discovery.
Visit our website for more information on our Annapurna IV expedition and our range of international expeditions. For booking inquiries, reach out to us at bookings@namasadventure.com.
Unleash the explorer within you, and climb where less has been.
LIVE YOUR STORY - NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM
A Guide to Climbing at-least one 8000M+ Mountain peak
Manaslu 8163M. Considered one of the lesser difficult 8000er
How can I prepare to climb an 8000m peak? I aspire to summit at least one 8000m peak. What steps should I take to fulfill this dream of mine? These are common inquiries we receive from passionate adventurers seeking guidance on their journey to conquer the world's highest peaks.
Is it your dream to climb at least one 8000M+ in your lifetime? If so, then in this blog article we aim to guide you towards how to prepare for an 8000M+ climb through preparatory stages, and which 8000m peak should undoubtedly be on your initial list.
Embarking on the journey to summit an 8000m peak is a dream cherished by many adventurers. In this comprehensive guide, we provide expert advice to prepare you for this monumental endeavor and recommend the ideal peaks to start your journey. Pushing your limits and summiting one of the 8000M peaks on Earth can be an incredibly rewarding and life-changing experience.
Setting Your Goals High: Summiting an 8000m peak epitomizes the ultimate test of endurance, skill, and mental resilience. Few achievements rival the sense of accomplishment gained from conquering these towering giants. By setting your sights on an 8000m peak, you embark on an extraordinary adventure that promises unforgettable experiences and lifelong memories.
Preparation Is Key: Climbing an 8000m peak demands meticulous planning, rigorous training, and expert guidance. Before undertaking such a formidable challenge, it is imperative to undergo comprehensive mountaineering training and seek guidance from seasoned professionals. Additionally, climbing several 4000m-6000m peaks is essential to hone your skills and build confidence for the ultimate ascent.
Gradual Progression: Success in mountaineering requires patience and gradual progression. Before attempting an 8000m expedition, it is advisable to summit at least one 7000m or 7500m peak to acclimatize to higher altitudes and assess your readiness. This incremental approach allows you to gain valuable experience and confidence before tackling the grandeur of an 8000m peak.
Endurance & Strength is Essential: Achieving success at high altitudes necessitates exceptional physical fitness and endurance. Incorporate regular endurance, muscular endurance, and strength training into your routine to build stamina and resilience. Activities such as hiking, running, cycling, and weight training are invaluable in preparing your body for the rigors of high-altitude climbing.
Mind Over Matter: Mental preparedness is just as crucial as physical strength in the realm of mountaineering. Cultivating a positive mindset, envisioning success, and mentally preparing for the trials ahead are paramount. Maintaining focus, determination, and resilience amidst adversity is key to overcoming obstacles and inching closer to your summit goal. While these may seem like clichés, they hold immense significance during the final stages of safely completing your ascent of an 8000m peak.
So, which 8000M+ should you climb? Below are our recommendations
Choosing Your Peak: For climbers with minimum prerequisites, Cho Oyu (8201m) or Manaslu (8163m) stands out as the ideal 8000M mountain expedition. Amongst 8000M mountains, these peaks are renowned for their least difficult terrain, lower fatal rate, and higher success rates, making them favorable choices. However, it's essential to acknowledge the inherent challenges of any mountain expedition and approach each ascent with respect and caution. No mountain expedition should be taken lightly.
Consider Everest: For seasoned climbers with great fitness profiles, with a proven track record of conquering numerous endurance events such as marathons, ultras, and Ironman competitions, coupled with successful ascents on multiple 4000m, 6000m, and 7000m expeditions, Mount Everest beckons as the ultimate challenge. Everest calls upon those who are prepared to push their boundaries and stand atop the world's highest summit.
With an ever-growing community of climbers, well-established teams, and increasingly safer routes compared to other 8000m expeditions, Everest stands as an exceptional choice for individuals possessing exceptional physical fitness, unwavering mental toughness, a wealth of climbing experiences, and the financial means to embark on a guided expedition.
Moreover, considering the inclusion of Lhotse 8516M alongside Everest offers a compelling proposition. With approximately 70% of the route overlapping, this can fit right in the mix for double 8000er.
In Conclusion: Embarking on the journey to climb an 8000m peak is an extraordinary endeavor that promises unparalleled rewards. While meticulous planning, physical fitness, and preparation are essential, it's when the challenges become most daunting that your mental fortitude truly shines. Battling every inch of the mountain, refusing to surrender easily, and persevering through each demanding step are the ultimate keys to success.
Though these principles may seem straightforward in theory, they demand unwavering self-discipline, meticulous planning, relentless self-motivation, and a steadfast commitment to gradual progress from the very moment you commit to pursuing your dream of conquering an 8000m peak. Remember, the journey to success may be challenging, but with unwavering dedication and perseverance, you can ascend to the pinnacle of achievement.
At Namas Adventure, we are dedicated to helping adventurers like yourself turn their dreams into reality and conquer the world's highest peaks. Let's begin by discussing your plans and aspirations, and together, we'll take the necessary steps forward. Allow our experienced team to guide you towards achieving your dream of summiting an 8000m mountain peak.
Your dream adventure awaits—let's make your 8000M dream a reality.
Live Your Story.
Expeditions Mentioned
INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING
IFMGA GUIDED 14 DAYS COURSE.
CHULU FAR EAST 6059M
6000M PEAK EXPEDITIONS
SOLO, COMBO OR THREE PEAKS
7000M EXPEDITIONS
BEGINNER. INTERMEDIATE & ADVANCED LEVEL 7000ER
CHO OYU 8201
MANASLU 8163M
EVEREST/LHOTSE
Best 7000M+ peaks to climb in Nepal - Namas Adventure
Near the summit of Annapurna IV 7525M
Although 7000M peaks do not have the same level of prestige as 8000M peaks or the highest peaks in the world, they can still be a great challenge for adventure seekers. While these peaks may not be as well-known as their higher counterparts, they offer a unique and rewarding experience for climbers. 7000-meter peaks are ideal for those who are seeking a true adventure challenge, and who are motivated by a love of climbing, cultural immersion, and personal accomplishment. If you are one of these passionate climbers, consider embarking on a mountaineering expedition to one of the six 7000er peaks in Nepal listed in this post. These peaks offer a chance to push your limits and achieve something truly remarkable.
Below we have listed 6 amazing and remote peaks to climb in the Nepalese Himalayan range.
Note - Prior experience of alpine or mountaineering climb above 4000+M - 6000M+ is a must. Skill and fitness requirements will vary from different mountain peak objectives.
1. Himlung Himal 7126M (Least difficult & least technical 7000er)
Summit of Himlung Himal 7126M, Vincente 2022 Fall expedition.
Altitude: 7126M / 23,379ft
Climbers’ experience level: Intermediate/Advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring, 5-20), Moderate (Autumn, 50 - 150)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October
Duration: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camp 1/2/3
Himlung Himal, standing at 7126 meters, is widely considered to be one of the safest and easiest 7000 meter peaks to climb in Nepal. Thanks to new, safer routes pioneered by French and Swiss climbers, Himlung Himal may become more accessible to climbers seeking a less technically demanding experience in western Nepal. The peak was not climbed until 1992, when it was conquered by a Japanese expedition, due to the fact that the area was not open to foreigners until the early 1990s. Located between the Manaslu and Annapurna ranges, the base camp for Himlung Himal is set up at an elevation of 4900 meters. The previous route up the peak, via the northwest ridge, has become increasingly prone to avalanche danger. A new, normal route was pioneered in 2013 by Kari Kobler of Switzerland, which offers an interesting and relatively short climb with limited objective danger. This route ascends the south flank of the northwest ridge to reach the upper crest, bypassing the previous route.
Note - Himlung Himal 7126M has the most successful summit records amongst all the 7000M+ commercial expeditions in Nepal. (Himalayan Database)
The Himlung Himal climbing expedition involves establishing 2-3 high camps at elevations of 5430 meters, 6000 meters, and 6300 meters. The summit day involves an ascent of 1100 meters through snow slopes with an angle of 40-45 degrees, requiring good snow conditions. Deep snow can pose a challenge even for strong teams. The climb is technically simple and objectively safe, making it an ideal preparation for your first 8000 meter peak.
History: First Ascent by the Japanese team in 1992.
Climb - Himlung Himal Link
2. Baruntse Peak 7129M (intermediate level and demanding)
Namas team on Baruntse Summit and fixed the climbing line to the summit during 22 fall expedition
Altitude: 7129M/ 23,389 ft
Acclimatization peak: Mera Peak 6476M
Climbers experience level: Intermediate level Experience
Crowd level: Minimum (Autumn, 15 - 40 climbers)
Location: Makalu Barun National Park
When to climb?: March-May or September - November
Duration: 32 - 35 Days
Difficulty Grading: D/ 4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Camping at Mera Peak/Baruntse BC/Camp 1 - 2
The Baruntse 7129M and Mera Peak 6476M climbing expedition offers a challenging and rewarding experience at the 7000 meter level. Baruntse, standing at 7129 meters, is located between Lhotse and Makalu, with other Himalayan peaks stretching out on either side. Teams often climb the nearby Mera Peak (6476 meters/21,246 feet) as an acclimatization climb, which falls on the same route as Baruntse. Once the base camp is established and the team has undergone training and a Puja ceremony, the real climb begins. Baruntse involves semi-technical climbing on steep slopes of 60 - 70 degrees incline to Camp 1 at 6000M via west col. The second camp is located at 6420 meters. Both camps are set up in exposed areas and are prone to high winds, so climbers should be prepared for unexpected weather conditions. The climbing route consists mainly of ice and snow, with very little rocky terrain after the first camp. Crevasses may appear more during the spring season compared to autumn along the route, and the objective at around 6900 meters can be dangerous. Experienced guidance is recommended in order to safely navigate the route to the summit.
History: Baruntse was first climbed on May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Climb - Baruntse with Mera Peak Expedition link
3. Annapurna IV 7525M (advanced level, technical & physically demanding)
Altitude: 7525M / 24,688ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate+/Advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/Autumn, 0 - 20)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October
Total no of days: 33 Days
Difficulty grading: TD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camps 1/2/3/4
Annapurna IV 7525M, is a great mountaineering objective for climbers looking for a challenging, but relatively safe and semi-technical climb. At 7527 meters, it is part of the Annapurna massif range and is located between Annapurna II and Annapurna III. While it may not be as popular as other peaks in the region, it offers fewer objective dangers and is considered the least technical of the Annapurna massif peaks (Annapurna I, II, III, IV, and Gangapurna). This mountain is not climbed as often as other peaks in the region.
History: Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.
4. Tilicho Peak 7134M (intermediate level and remote climb)
Tiicho Peak 7134M.
Altitude: 7134M / 23,405ft ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate to advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/autumn, 0-10 members)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October-November
Total no of days: 32 Days
Difficulty grading: D+/4 (Alpine grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Basecamp, Camps 1/2/3
If you're seeking a technical challenge at the 7000M level, Tilicho Peak may be the climb for you. The expedition starts with a beautiful trek through the Annapurna circuit, culminating in a visit to Tilicho lake, the highest lake in the world, at an elevation of 4910 meters. Located in the Annapurna region of Nepal to the north of Manang, Tilicho Peak stands at a majestic 7134 meters. Its northeast ridge, covered in snow, towers over the Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, with the hidden kingdom of Mustang just a few miles to the north. The standard climbing route for the peak is the northwest shoulder, with the base camp located at 4910 meters on the northwest end of the lake.
Tilicho Peak is a technical climb that requires proficiency in climbing skills and physical fitness. It is recommended that climbers have previous experience in alpine and high-altitude climbing. The peak is graded as 4D, with a combination of rock and ice climbing, as well as glaciers. There are three high camps established on the route to the summit of Tilicho Peak. The climb from the base camp to Camp 1 at 5800 meters is straightforward, along a 50-degree mixed rock and ice route that is 590 meters in length. Camp 2, at 6200 meters, is located on the shoulder and can be accessed via a 55-degree snowfield that is 450 meters in length. The shoulder has an angle of 55 degrees and an 800-meter snowfield, with low objective danger and minimal exposure due to the wide width of the shoulder. Fixed ropes are required for the 40-degree slope to reach Camp 2 at 6300 meters. The summit is approached by climbing stretches of a 60-degree slope.
History: The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder.
Climb - Tilicho Peak (Click here)
5. Putha Hiunchuli 7246M (Dhaulagiri VII) (least difficult and least technical. Remote 7000er)
Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) 7246M, Photo by - Nunatak
Altitude: 7,246M / 23773ft
Difficulty: Least difficult and least technical
Crowd level: Minimum (Autumn, 5 - 20)
Location: Dhaulagiri Range
When to climb?: September - October
Total no of days: 31 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Basecamp, Camp 1/2/3
Dhaulagiri VII (also known as 'Putha Hiunchuli') is one of the most accessible 7000M+ peaks in the Dhaulagiri range. It is located in the remote Dolpo or the wild west region of Nepal. Although most of the 7000M+ peaks are in remote corners of Nepal, this region even to locals is remotest compared to other regions of Nepal.
The climbing route has no significant technical climbing, the mountain is still a serious undertaking and provides excellent training for those who want to attempt Everest or other 8,000m peaks. Teams will be setting up three high altitude camps and a base camp. This can be considered as one of the easy climbs when we compare it amongst other 7000M peaks yet it is not to be underestimated. If you want to add an extra thrill then climbers with off-piste ski experiences can attempt a ski when descending.
History: This peak was first climbed by J.O.M Roberts and Ang Nima Sherpa in 1954.
Climb - Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) Click here
6. Ama Dablam 6819M (advanced level & technical climb)
Altitude: 6,812M / 22,349ft
Acclimatization: Island peak 6180M
Climbers experience level: Advanced/Pro Level
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring, 5 - 20), Excessive (Autumn, 200 - 300) Mid October - Mid November is the busiest.
Location: Khumbu Region
When to climb?: September - November
Total no of days: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: TD+/5 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Cam / Camping Island Peak BC/Highcamp/ Ama Dablam BC / Camp 1-2 and Camp 2.1 (depending on yearly climbing assessment)
Ama Dablam, standing at 6,856 meters, may not be as tall as some of the other 7000M peaks, but it is no less challenging. In fact, it is considered to be just as difficult as many of the 7000-meter peaks and is a must-do for alpine and mountain climbing enthusiasts. The combination of rock, snow, and ice climbing, along with exposed terrain and sections of almost 90-degree slopes, makes this peak a true test of skill and endurance. It is also known for its beauty and is highly sought after by even seasoned Everest summiteers. If you are looking for a thrilling and challenging mountain climbing experience, Ama Dablam is the peak for you.
Expedition teams normally utilize Island peak 6189M as an acclimatization peak before settling down at Ama Dablam base camp. The peak attracts a lot of climbers during the autumn season, rightly so because of its climbing nature. This expedition involves a cultural trek into the base camp and climbing on technical rock, vertical snow and ice routes and stunning exposed panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit. Teams climb Amadablam via the South West ridge, a technical route, and the standard route setting up 2 or possibly 3 camps (camp 3 depends on the assessment by each year’s rope fixing team). The route on the summit day is on steep snow and ice slopes, with outrageous exposure directly to the summit.
History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition lead by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Climb - Ama Dablam with Island Peak Expedition (Link)
If you're looking to add some incredible mountain climbing experiences to your repertoire, consider tackling one of the 7000M+ peaks. Whether you're looking to build up to climbing even higher or just want the thrill of a mountaineering expedition, the peaks listed above offer some of the best mountain climbing adventures in the world. Located in remote areas and reaching high altitudes, each of these peaks has its own unique character and climbing challenges. We hope that these 7000M+ peaks will receive the recognition they deserve and that Nepal will continue to welcome mountain climbers from around the globe.
If you have any questions then there are some peaks like Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Tilicho Peak, Himlung Himal, and Annapurna IV expedition. We at Namas organize yearly departures but for other peaks such as Putha Hiunchuli, and Gangapurna upon inquiry our team will be able to organize a fully serviced expedition.
Go. Dare greater things.
Live Your Story.
Other related articles:
Visual journey of Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition - NAMAS ADVENTURE
Annapurna IV, false summit 7300 and real summit 7525M (middle top)
Early reminder - Click to enlarge on images
Annapurna IV, standing tall at 7525 meters, is an exhilarating gem nestled within the roaring Annapurna massif. Although it may be the least tallest among the Annapurna peaks, conquering it is anything but easy. With fewer commercial teams venturing this way, it's an ideal choice for climbers seeking remoteness and a healthy dose of adventure. During the fall of 2023, we were the sole expedition on the mountain, a small group of 15 intrepid souls facing this magnificent giant, offering a visual feast for those seeking their next mountaineering challenge.
Our journey kicks off in Kathmandu, embarking on a scenic drive to Besisahar. From there, it's an adventurous off-road (albeit bumpy) ride along the Annapurna circuit trail to reach the charming village of Koto. Trekking approximately 20 kilometers leads us to the picturesque village of Humde. Along the way, we conduct acclimatization rotations and soak in the stunning natural beauty while relishing delicious meals in the serene village of Manang.
2023 Fall Namas Adventure Annapurn IV squad. Jeep ride via beautiful waterfalls
Village of Upper Pisang and Gateway to heaven (Swarga Dwar) Mountain in the middle.
Manang village, acclimatisation hike 3519M
Route to Annapurna IV Base Camp 4800M - 4850M
The trek to Annapurna IV Base Camp involves a significant altitude gain in a single day. Following our acclimatization trek to Manang village at 3519 meters, once acclimatized, we gear up for a steep ascent of 1400 meters to reach the Annapurna 4 base camp. The trail winds through lush pine forests, leading us uphill as we make our way toward the base camp.
Annapurna IV, Base Camp, 4800M - 4850M
Route to Camp 1 5500M. 5 - 7 hours
As you set off from the base camp, your first challenge looms large, appearing tall, mean, and quite intimidating. Yet, once you begin the climb, it's not as daunting as it seems!
If this camp doesn't impress you, I'm not sure what will! 😎
Route to Camp 2 5500M - 5600M. 5- 6 hours
Ascending through snow and ice starts now! The adventure kicks off with a steep uphill climb from camp 1 to camp 2.
Annapurna IV Camp 2 (5500M - 5600M)
Camp 2 is positioned strategically on a compact, level area of the mountain, offering protection from the robust winds that gust from the north and northeast sides. From this vantage point, the impressive Manaslu at 8163 meters looms in the distant backdrop, flanked by the colossal Annapurna II. The panoramic vista extends extensively to the left, showcasing the Himchuli and other Chulu ranges. It's a stroke of luck to bivouac at this spot; the vistas here continually improve, with clouds often swirling below, adding a dramatic flair to this already stunning landscape.
View from camp 2. Annapurna II 7937M and Manaslu 8163M in the far distant.
Route to Camp 3 (6 - 7 hours)
Once again, the day kicks off with an exhilarating ascent, scaling the steep headwall immediately upon departure from camp 2. A substantial crevasse looms ahead after navigating the headwall, followed by a sprawling plateau of flat snow leading to camp 3. Careful navigation and caution are key on this route.
The thrilling culmination of challenges awaits as you navigate the final daunting terrain towards the summit.
Annapurna IV Camp 3 6600M
Route to the true Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M to BC. 16 - 18 hours
An early start marks the beginning of the journey towards the ultimate goal. It'll be an arduous and audacious day, braving the elements and keeping an eye on the winds.
Namas Adventure team members at Annapurna IV 7525M true summit. This one will be for life time memories. What a climb and pure test of grit, will and mental toughness.
The summit stands narrow, fully exposing the Annapurna massif on all sides. Views extend to Machhapucchre (Fishtail), Manaslu at 8163 meters, and the sprawling Pokhara valley, all visible from this vantage point.
Are you planning the Annapurna IV 7525M expedition as your next big mountaineering adventure? We have departures every year (spring/autumn). For more information on our Annapurna IV expedition or any of our other expeditions do check out our website.
(Call/WhatsApp) - +1 347-476-9547 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Which 7000M mountain peak should I climb? A Guide to Choosing Your next 7000M High-Altitude Adventure: Namas Adventure
With so many amazing options available, it can be difficult to decide which mountain to choose for your next high-altitude expedition. In this blog post, we will provide you with valuable insights and considerations to help you make an informed decision and select the perfect 7000M mountain peak for your climbing aspirations.
The first and foremost is to check your past climbing Experience and Skill Level: Before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, it is crucial to assess your climbing experience and skill level. While 7000M peaks are generally less demanding than their 8000M counterparts, they still require a solid foundation of mountaineering skills and high-altitude experience. Consider factors such as previous high-altitude climbs, technical proficiency, and your ability to adapt to extreme environments.
Easy and Safe - 7000er
Himlung Himal 7126M (Highest summit success in Nepal)
Himlung Himal (7126M) is a classic Himalayan expedition known for being one of the easiest and least technical 7000 meter+ mountains to climb (although it should not be underestimated). It has the highest recorded summit success rate (according to the Himalayan Database) compared to other peaks. Himlung Himal is also renowned as one of the safest climbable peaks with fewer technical difficulties. It is located in the same Himalayan belt as other giants like Manaslu and the Annapurna massif, so you can expect stunning views of the surrounding peaks from the summit.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7126M
Difficulty: 4/PD (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 2 to 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Considered one of the safest, easiest 7000M+ expeditions with the highest recorded summit success in Nepal
Towering at 7,134 meters along the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, Lenin Peak presents an excellent introduction to high-altitude mountaineering above 7,000 meters. Considered one of the more straightforward ascents at this elevation range, it serves as ideal preparation for attempting the Himalayan giants to 7500M or 8,000-meter peaks.
Also named Pik Lenin, this expedition begins in the ancient city of Osh in southern Kyrgyzstan, which radiates a palpable sense of history as the country's second-largest city and oldest continuously inhabited settlement. Home to approximately 250,000 residents, Osh's diverse blend of Uzbeks, Kyrgyz, Russians, and Tajiks infuses the architecture, language, and cuisine with rich cultural elements. Much as it did 3,000 years ago along the Silk Road, Osh still serves as a thriving trading hub connecting Central Asia and China. This gateway city marks the start of the journey before venturing into the high mountains.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7134M
Preparatory climb for 7500M or lower 8000M peaks
One of the least technical 7000M mountain
Difficulty: AD/ 4 (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
Can be your first 7000M+ expedition
Mount Nun is the preeminent peak within the Nun Kun massif situated in the mighty Zanskar Range of the Indian Himalayas. This iconic mountain range, nestled in the Leh Ladakh region, contains two eminent peaks: the lofty Mount Nun at 7,135 meters, the highest summit in the area, and its slightly shorter companion, Mount Kun at 7,077 meters.
A successful ascent of Mount Nun presents ambitious climbers with a prime opportunity to garner invaluable high-altitude mountaineering skills on a classic Himalayan expedition, paving the way for future ascents of even more demanding 7,500 meter or 8,000 meter giants.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7135M
Difficulty: AD/4 (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
12 days of climbing
Can be your first 7000M climb
Spantik 7027M, the majestic peak in the Karakoram region. This expedition is considered straightforward and less technical and offers an excellent opportunity to challenge yourself at altitudes above 7,000 meters while immersing in the beauty of the mountain area, its warm-hearted people, and its captivating culture. With a well-organized expedition, Spantik provides an affordable and rewarding climbing experience, making it a fantastic choice for mountaineers seeking both adventure and cultural exploration. Don't miss the chance to conquer this stunning peak and create unforgettable memories in the enchanting Karakoram.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7027 M
Difficulty: AD/4 (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Can be your first 7000M climb
Baruntse Peak is another attainable 7,000-meter summit in the Himalayas. This expedition is slightly technical and challenging climb compared to the above-mentioned expeditions. Situated amongst giants like Lhotse, and Makalu, Baruntse lies embedded within a stunning panorama of jagged Himalayan peaks. Its accessibility provides climbers with an unparalleled opportunity to develop critical mountaineering skills and high-altitude experience to prepare for future ascents of more demanding summits.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7129M
Difficulty: 4/PD (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 2 to 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Safe, challenging, and technical sections. Definitely an epic climb
Technical and Challenging 7000er
Annapurna IV 7525M (Prepare for Everest)
Annapurna IV presents the ideal mountaineering objective for climbers seeking a balance of challenge and relative safety. Part of the mighty Annapurna range in Nepal, Annapurna IV lies between the taller Annapurna II (7,937m) to the west and Annapurna III (7,555m) to the east. The established route up Annapurna IV poses fewer objective hazards and is a relatively semi-technical ascent compared to its neighbors. Of the Annapurna peaks (I, II, III, IV, and Gangapurna), Annapurna IV is considered the least dangerous and technically demanding. Despite its accessible profile, this mountain sees far less traffic than other regional giants. For climbers pursuing a balance of adventure and prudent risk, Annapurna IV stands out as an excellent choice.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7525M
Preparatory climb for Everest or other 8000M expedition
Difficulty: 4/D (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
21 days of climbing
Challenging, and technical expedition. Should not be your first 7000er climb.
Pumori 7161m
Mount Pumori will test climbers' endurance and technical skills, though the rewards overwhelmingly compensate for the required effort. Part of the Mahalangur Himal section of the Himalayan range, Pumori lies between the Nangpa La Pass and Arun River, surrounded by giants like Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. Considered a technically demanding expedition, Pumori requires climbers to have sufficient high-altitude experience and fitness. Due to exposed ridges and several avalanche-prone sections, small groups are ill-advised. Instead, an adequately sized team is needed to establish ropes and navigate tricky passages. With relentless steepness testing both physical and mental reserves, Pumori lures only the most determined risk-takers equipped with seasoned technical expertise. For those up for the challenge, Pumori promises immense satisfaction in conquering one of the region's toughest peaks.
Expedition Highlights
Elevation: 7161M
Preparatory climb for Everest or other 8000M expedition
Difficulty: 4/E (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
18 - 20 days of climbing
Challenging, and technical expedition. Should not be your first 7000er climb.
With careful evaluation of your skills, experience, risk tolerance, and personal goals, you can identify the ideal 7000M mountain for your next high-altitude expedition. Do your research, inquire and consult with our team, build up your fitness, prepare your gear, and make sure you join a responsible, skilled team. The thrills of standing atop one of these iconic peaks make all the rigorous training and planning worthwhile. Whichever incredible mountain you choose, cherish and be prepared for a life-changing adventure amid some of the most dramatic landscapes on Earth. With the right preparation and positive mindset, you will return home with memories to last a lifetime.
Let’s welcome you to our yearly departure team and scale to the top of these mountains while making this an epic experience of a lifetime. Our team is ready to hear from you and help you achieve your dream adventure.
Namas Adventure Team
Live Your Story
Everything you need to know about Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Cho Oyu 8201M
Climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th highest peak, is an incredible opportunity to stand atop one of the “easier” 8000m giants. Located on the Nepal-Tibet border, Cho Oyu offers stunning Himalayan scenery and a chance to glimpse life in Tibet. This complete guide provides everything you need to know to prepare for and succeed on the mighty Cho Oyu.
1. When is the best time to climb Cho Oyu?
The autumn months of September-October are an ideal season for climbing Cho Oyu.
2. How much does the Cho Oyu expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
Our Cho Oyu expedition is priced at USD $33,000 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio with additional Sherpa guides for high-altitude logistics/ rescue missions and the use of 4 X personal supplemental oxygen (highest in the industry). Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. Additional Supporting Guides will be allocated based on climbing members’ number.
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Chinese government climbing permits)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trail head. Tibet and Kathmandu
Flights Lhasha - Kathmandu - Lhasha
Expedition tents, single tents in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
4 Oxygen Bottles
60 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. The first ascent of Cho Oyu 8201M?
Cho Oyu was first summited in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition.
5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Cho Oyu?
There are two main commercial expedition routes in Cho Oyu. The west ridge route is the choice for most expedition companies.
6. Why is Cho Oyu considered easy and safest 8000M expedition?
Cho Oyu stands out as one of the easier and safer 8000m peaks, mainly attributed to its manageable technical difficulty and a camping/climbing route that is less susceptible to avalanches. The post-monsoon period in this region of Tibet-Nepal offers relatively stable weather conditions, resulting in a historically lower fatality rate compared to other peaks above 8000m. The presence of skilled Sherpa guides and the Nepalese climbing system further enhance the safety measures associated with Cho Oyu for high-altitude expeditions.
7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Cho Oyu 8201M expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?
Experiences - To participate in the Cho Oyu expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is a must for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions. Unlike other places, rules in Tibets are strict and clients will have to present proof of certification for the pre-requirements before climbing 8000M peaks.
For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M+ climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Cho Oyu may be considered. In Tibet, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.
8. What is the number of high camps established for the Cho Oyu expedition?
We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Cho Oyu expedition mission.
Route: West Ridge, Tibet
Advanced Base Camp (5800M/18372FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 1 (6500M/21,325FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 2 (7100M/3,294FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 3 (7400M/24278FT)
Cho Oyu Summit (8201M/27765FT) 12 - 16hrs
9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Cho Oyu expedition?
As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During Cho Oyu expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Advanced Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.
10. What level of training and experience is required for the Cho Oyu expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?
When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Cho Oyu expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (50-60Km+) weekly or cycling (100-160Km weekly), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
11. How hard is Cho Oyu How difficult is the climb?
Cho Oyu expedition is graded at D+ /4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Cho Oyu climb will require 35-42 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.
This expedition takes place in a remote location and we have a limited team size of Max 10 climbers.
12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?
Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider the Cho Oyu expedition as a perfect preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu 8163M expedition, Cho Oyu offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and less objective dangers compared to Manaslu (Avalanches especially and the true summit of Manaslu are tougher & technical compared to Cho Oyu)
13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Cho Oyu expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Cho Oyu climb?
Proper gear selection is essential for a successful climb. We highly recommend investing in high-quality gear and clothing and paying attention to layering properly for optimal comfort. As temperatures can drop to extreme lows of -20C/-40C at night, it is imperative that you are well-equipped to stay warm. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Regarding gear rental in Nepal, we do not recommend it. We understand that purchasing all the necessary gear can be costly, but it is worth the investment in the long run. It is preferable to rent gear from reputable adventure gear companies such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Kailas in your home city, rather than relying on potentially subpar gear available for rental in Nepal.
Recommended boots for Cho Oyu Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Cho Oyu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.
During the Cho Oyu Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.
Our team will provide packed dried meals as an alternative option and recommend a daily water intake of 4-6 liters. It's essential to stay hydrated throughout the expedition, and we suggest bringing hydration tablets or filtration bottles to ensure clean water is readily available. Additionally, we advise avoiding smoking and alcohol consumption while on the expedition as it can negatively impact performance and acclimatization.
Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.
15. Recommended insurance cover for Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Cho Oyu. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer essential comprehensive coverage, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas. Unfortunately, helicopter rescue is not possible in Tibet/China.
16. Next climbing goals after Cho Oyu Expedition?
Upon the successful completion of your Cho Oyu 8201M expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Mt Everest Express, Makalu 8563M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M or Express climb, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.
A. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition or Mt. Everest Express (30 Days or less)
The Mt. Everest expedition or Mt. Everest Express expedition is not only one of the most popular but also one of the most well-facilitated expeditions. Upon successfully completing your Cho Oyu climb, climbers should be ready to plan their dream climb to the highest peak in the world. MT. Everest 8848M
Ama Dablam 6810M is a technically demanding climbing goal for many mountaineers, known for its stunning beauty and exposed nature in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain to climb among mountaineering enthusiasts. We recommend considering climbing Ama Dablam before or after a larger expedition, such as Mount Everest, as it presents a significant mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is widely considered a "must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers.
C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)
Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.
Don't hesitate to reach out to us with any further questions. You can ask us in the comments below or send an email to bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will respond to you as soon as possible. Remember to take care of yourself and to always strive for greatness. Challenge yourself, dare to do great things, and make your story one worth telling.
Namaste
Namas Adventure Team