Understanding and Managing Khumbu Cough: Essential Tips for Everest Climbers
Gorakshep, Khumbu, Everest region
Khumbu cough is no new news to climbers and any climbers who are planning their Everest or Lhotse expedition should be informed about this sickness. Often experienced by climbers especially at Mount Everest or Lhotse expedition, is more than just an inconvenience—it can be a significant barrier to reaching the summit. As commercial Everest expedition runs only during the spring season, we tend see more cases during this season and slowly spreading down the region. This blog post delves into the nature of Khumbu cough, exploring its causes, prevention strategies, and management techniques. We have to be clear this is not a scientific data we can share and this article is drawn from our mountain operation experiences especially during Everest climb, we offer practical advice to help climbers minimize the impact of this condition, though we are not medical professionals.
What is Khumbu Cough?
Khumbu cough, or high altitude cough, is commonly reported by climbers ascending beyond 2,500 meters. It results from the cold, dry air found at high altitudes, which irritates the respiratory tract. Prolonged exposure to this harsh environment can lead to persistent, painful coughing that can cause complications such as rib fractures or even more severe respiratory issues.
Prevention Strategies: Preventing Khumbu cough starts with understanding and preparing for the conditions you’ll face in high-altitude climbing:
Moisture and Warmth: Keep your throat and airways warm and moist. Use a scarf or mask to cover your mouth and breathe through a buff to warm the air before it enters your lungs.
Hydration: Stay well-hydrated. Dry air can dehydrate you quickly, exacerbating the risk of developing the cough.
Acclimatization: Follow a careful acclimatization schedule to give your body time to adjust to the altitude. This can also help mitigate the symptoms of Khumbu cough.
Avoid Overexertion: Pace yourself to avoid excessive breathing rates, which can increase the irritation of your respiratory tract.
Diagnosis and Symptoms
Diagnosis of Khumbu cough is primarily based on symptoms, as it tends to develop in specific, high-altitude environments. Symptoms include a persistent dry cough that intensifies during the night and after exertion. If you experience these symptoms, it is advisable to consult with a guide or medical professional available on your expedition.
Treatment and Management
While there is no specific treatment for Khumbu cough, managing the symptoms effectively can improve comfort and climbing performance:
Rest and Recovery: Take ample rest if symptoms develop. Pushing through the cough can lead to more severe complications.
Warm Beverages: Sipping warm beverages can soothe the throat and reduce coughing bouts.
Medication: Over-the-counter cough suppressants and throat lozenges may provide temporary relief. However, always consult with a health professional before taking medication at altitude.
Descent: If symptoms become unbearable or are accompanied by other signs of altitude sickness, descending to a lower altitude can provide relief.
Health clinics in Khumbu region
Everest base camp - Everest Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA)
Lukla hospital
Namche Bazaar Clinics and Khunde Hospital
Pheriche HRA branch
Pro Tip: If you experience symptoms of Khumbu cough or any sickness during your Everest expedition, it’s best to consult with the Everest HRA team. Since helicopters are frequent in the region, consider taking a helicopter ride to Namche, Lukla, or even Kathmandu for treatment and recovery. Once you’re back to full strength, you can rejoin the expedition to catch the Everest summit window, which typically begins around May 10th. Stay safe and prioritize your health! 🏔️
Conclusion: Khumbu cough is a common yet challenging condition faced by high-altitude climbers. By taking preventive measures and managing symptoms effectively, climbers can reduce its impact. Remember, while we offer advice based on our mountaineering experience, consulting with medical professionals during your preparation and on the expedition is crucial.
Stay safe and climb smartly as you embark on your Everest expedition. Let us know your experiences or any tips you might have regarding Khumbu cough in the comments below!
Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy - Namas Adventure
Everest Base Camp - Expedition moments
The Everest, as in the mountaineering, is the greatest goal of climbing adventures. As a mountaineering challenge, it has attracted people to come and explore this breathtaking Himalayan mountain. The most desirable achievement accomplishing here is to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest 8848M.
There is a system that every Everest climber should follow to increase the likelihood of success. It’s based on experience, planning and skill but there are other factors too such as clear weather window, sheer persistence and training. Our expert team of Everest expedition strategists take all the factors involved and build a plan that ensures your dream becomes a reality, not just once but time and time again. Everest results from the combination of a great strategy and a system. If you decide to join an Everest expedition, you will be dealt with professional guides who will do everything they can to ensure you reach the summit. We give you a structured game plan to assure that you’ll get to base camp and one day, to the summit of Mount Everest.
Everest Base Camp 5346M
We take a slow trek through the world's iconic Everest base camp trek, acclimatising and getting the perspective of the local region. Our first goal will be to summit Lobuche east as our acclimatisation peak. After that our team heads towards our final camp to settle in Everest base camp.
If you want to invite your family or friends to join you until Everest Base camp or Lobuche East Peak climb (Beginner/Intermediate) then you can find more information on the link below or please mail us to make those arrangements.
For more information on Everest Base Camp (Click here)
Lobuche East 6119M climb for training and acclimatisation
We use Lobuche East peak as our acclimatisation and training peak. Mount Lobuche East 6119M is another popular 6,000M climbing peak in Nepal. This peak will provide us a perfect starting point to refresh our skills, climb a 6000M+ peak to get our body acclimated to high altitude, and enjoy the climb with our fellow expedition members. As this will be the group’s first climb together, this will give our guides a better understanding of where each climber are in terms of confidence, fitness and skills.
We will be using base camp and high camp before we summit Lobuche East mountain and head back to base camp and rest for a night there before we move towards Everest BC.
Everest Base Camp 5346M
Preparation will have already begun even before the arrival of climbers at the base camp. Our base camp manager and the team will have already set up our individual camps, storage camps, comms-media stations, toilet-showers, kitchen-dining tents, and Namas base camp HQ for all other briefing purposes.
Puja Ceremony
2024 Namas Everest expedition team at base camp after puja ceremony
All of our expeditions only begin after a Puja ceremony. Where a dedicated Lama Guru (head Monk) will conduct the ceremony. He will recite the prayers to The Mountain gods asking for well-being, safety, safe passage and a successful expedition. All climbers will be requested to take part in the ceremony as this is very important for the guides and your climbing gears will also be blessed during the puja.
Training at Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall. (Ladders, fixed lines training) 5486M / 17998ft
Training at Khumbu ice fall
After settling at base camp, this is where all the climbing team will reside for the next 40+ days. Climbing ladders to cross the great Khumbu icefall is the first real objective/technical challenge when climbing Everest. So, we focus a large portion of our training on getting used to crossing these ladders. Another part of our training will be climbing on the glaciers which are near to our base camp. Here we will further refine our skills by climbing vertical ice walls using fixed ropes and ice axe. We do our best to mimic the environment in the icefall and train walking on the step ladder step by step. By the time we start our way to climb Khumbu icefall to climb up to camp 1, all climbers will have a good understanding of crossing the ladders and will also be guided personally in real-time.
How many rotations: Each time we go from base camp to Camp 1 we will have to cross Khumbu ice fall.
When will climbers sleep here: No, we do not sleep here.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 1 Everest Expedition
Camp 1 is will be setup once Khumbu Icefall challenge is crossed. The camp is setup below the Nuptse in an icy and snowy surface. The route gets even from here onwards up to camp 2. This will be the first area where climbers will have to share tents and accommodate in an alpine environment.
How many rotations: 2 rotations
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly.
Camp 2 (6400M/20997ft)
Hike from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a fairly even one out of all the climb during the entire expedition. The route is a pass sitting right between Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse face right in front when climbers hike.
How many rotations: 2 rotation
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and when descending back from the summit.
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M / 23622ft+)
Camp 3 sits at a steep section of Lhotse's face. This climb and will be one of the most strenuous uphill climbs using fixed-line ropes from camp 2 to camp 3. Camps here are one of the most dangerous ones as they are set up in small ledges/pockets where it is suitable. We ask all our climbers to make sure their safety ropes are tied onto the main safety ropes as there have been many falls and incidents, particularly during nighttime.
How many rotations: 2 rotation
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and possibly when descending back from the summit if they are too tired to make it to camp 2.
South Col (Camp 4) (7906M / 25938ft)
This will the final camp before heading to the summit. The camp sits at 7906M just 100M below the Death Zone area. Climbers will be using oxygen bottles when they are in their tents as the air is very thin here. From the South Col to the summit it is about 1.7-1.9 miles and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. We will begin our summit bid just before midnight with a steep climb up the Southside of Everest. Upon reaching the Balcony at 27,500 feet, climbers turn West up the ridge to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step onto the Summit Ridge, and then to the summit.
How many rotations: None
When will climbers sleep here?: 1 night
Summit of Everest (8848.86M / 29031.69 ft)
Hillary ridge - Everest expedition
Our aim will be to stand at the summit around 7 - 10 am in morning. The climb to the summit will be one of the hardest and toughest part of the entire expedition. As we leave the south col, first we will have to climb a steep hill about 30-40 degrees to the balcony of the south side of Everest. From there with the support of fixed-line rope we jummar and ascend climbing on the southeast ridge to the south summit. Here we rest and replace our new O2 cylinder and after regaining our energy, climb to cornice traverse, then to Hillary's step, and finally reach the summit or roof of the world, Everest. For most climbers, once they climb the Hillary step it will roughly take 30min to reach the summit of Everest.
Once on the summit, we rejoice our moment, celebrate take pictures and soak it all in before we gather our moment and get ready to head back down to our camps. The duration of your summit depends upon how long the good weather window will remain open. Remember on any mountain climb the summit is only halfway done. Heading down is another dangerous part there have been many incidents. We slowly make our way through the same route to South Col camp with our aim to stop at Camp 2. The entire climb will be about 16 - 20 hours depending on the fitness level of climbers.
Are planning to climb and summit to the roof of the World one day? We run expedition to Everest every year (2023) taking all your climbing personal needs into accounts as well as implementing responsible and sustainable strategy in our expedition strategy. Our team is here to assist you in making your dream of climbing Everest being safe with tons of fun and being responsible & sustainable during our expeditions. Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to inquire.
Live Your Dream. Live Your Story
Insider tips to prepare for Everest Expedition
Wester cwm Everest Expedition. 2024 Everest climb
Hey folks, this is Bisesh, Chief Adventurer at Namas Adventure. As you prepare for your next major mountaineering endeavor, such as an Everest expedition, I'm excited to share some personal insights and valuable tips that helped me successfully summit Everest on my first attempt. I hope these suggestions will aid you in your preparations and contribute to your success on the mountain.
Preparing for an Everest expedition or any extreme altitude mounatin expeditions can be an overwhelming experience, given the abundance of information available on preparation strategies. It's crucial to understand that climbing Everest—or any high-altitude mountain—demands extensive experience, encompassing both triumphs and setbacks. You must acquaint your mind and heart with all possible outcomes. Remember, every climber is unique, and a generic training regimen won't necessarily enable you to perform optimally against these formidable peaks.
Now that you've tailored a training plan to your specific needs and are preparing with discipline, I'd like to share some personal strategies that supported my preparations and actual ascent. My hope is that you can adapt some of these tools and tips to tackle your challenges with greater finesse and derive more enjoyment from your climb.
These preparation strategies played a pivotal role in my successful ascent of Everest —even though I was afflicted with Khumbu cough and a fever just four days before the summit push, and was only at 50% of my health post-recovery.
To provide some context, I am a fit, athletic male in my mid-30s, currently residing in New York City. It doesn’t get more urban and densely populated than NYC. I trained rigorously 5-6 days a week for 5 months, dedicating 1.5 to 2 hours each day to my fitness regime. I continue to train with the same intensity as I prepare for the upcoming Annapurna 1 (Spring 2025) and K2 (Summer 2026) expeditions. Should I optimize my training methods in any way, I will be sure to update this blog post to share my latest insights and adaptations.
Training
I focused on enhancing my VO2 max capacity. I incorporated interval & muscular endurance training, along with plyometrics. These workouts are critical for increasing aerobic capacity, especially when preparing for high-altitude climbs where oxygen levels are significantly lower.
Specifically, I engaged in a structured interval training regimen. This consisted of 10 minutes of jogging in Zone 2 to warm up, followed by more intense segments: four sets of 3-minute runs in Zone 4, each set interspersed with 3 minutes of rest. Additionally, I included four sets of 30-second all-out sprints, again with 3 minutes of rest between each sprint. This combination of medium and high-intensity intervals was designed to push my aerobic system to adapt and improve.
I committed to this training schedule once a week for four months. Over time, this regimen significantly enhanced my VO2 max, equipping me with the stamina needed to tackle the rigorous demands of high-altitude climbing.
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VO2 max, or maximal oxygen uptake, is the maximum amount of oxygen that an individual can utilize during intense or maximal exercise. It is measured in milliliters of oxygen used in one minute per kilogram of body weight (ml/kg/min). This measurement is considered the best indicator of an athlete's cardiovascular fitness and aerobic endurance.
The concept behind VO2 max is simple: it measures the efficiency with which your body can pull oxygen from the blood to produce energy. During exercise, your muscles require more oxygen to generate the energy needed to sustain activity. The more oxygen you can use during high-intensity activity, the more energy you can produce.
VO2 max is influenced by several factors, including genetics, training, age, gender, and altitude. Regular, sustained cardiorespiratory training can lead to improvements in VO2 max, as your cardiovascular system becomes more efficient at delivering oxygen to your muscles and your muscle cells become better at using that oxygen.
In sports science, VO2 max is used to:
Assess an athlete’s cardiovascular capacity and fitness level. Tailor training programs to improve endurance and performance. Evaluate the effectiveness of training regimens and monitor changes in fitness levels over time. A higher VO2 max allows athletes to perform more intense physical activity for longer periods, which is particularly important in endurance sports like running, cycling, and rowing.
Cold shower everyday and cold plunge 30F twice a month
Incorporating cold exposure into my training routine has been another critical factor in preparing for the harsh conditions of Everest. With the rising popularity of cold showers and cold plunges, I decided to embrace this trend—and it has proven immensely beneficial. Initially, I integrated cold showers into my training regimen during my Annapurna IV climb. Despite the initial discomfort and my reluctance towards the frigid water, I maintained discipline and subjected myself to daily cold showers.
Over time, not only did I adapt, but I also began to crave these showers, especially during the harsh winters of New York, which run from November to March. This practice significantly aided in acclimating to cold conditions.
Sauna 2-3 times a week. 20 min
I incorporated sauna visits into my routine 2-3 times a week for about 20 minutes each session. While saunas are known for their heat, they provided a vital counterbalance to the cold exposure. Post-training, the sauna served as an excellent recovery tool, offering cardiovascular health benefits and enhancing overall wellness—truly a win-win in my training program.
Intermittent fasting 5 days
Intermittent fasting also played a role in my preparation, with a regimen from Monday to Friday. At high altitudes, appetite can diminish significantly, and meals are often sparse. Training my body to function effectively while fasting mimicked the conditions I would face on the mountain, particularly between Camp 3 and the summit, where eating becomes a challenge. This adaptation was crucial during the strenuous stretches from Camp 2 to 3 and onto the summit.
Wim hof breathing technique
I also explored the Wim Hof breathing technique, practicing it 2-4 times a week, especially in the mornings. While it's hard to quantify the direct impact of this practice, deep breathing is essential at high altitudes. Emulating such conditions during the preparation phase likely provided a significant advantage. The technique proved especially useful when trekking to higher elevations and at base camps, helping to enhance my respiratory capacity and overall altitude tolerance.
Nutrition
Coke or sodas or fruit jelly drinks (during Expedition)
You might find this surprising, but an essential tip for high-altitude expeditions like Everest is to stock up on extra bottles of Coke for the higher camps. During your rotations to Camp 2 and Camp 3, try to include 2-3 bottles in your supplies. Then, for your summit push, leave a couple at Camp 4 and take a few with you to the summit. You’ll be incredibly grateful to have access to Coke at these elevations.
Coke or similar sugary drinks can taste surprisingly delightful and almost heavenly in the thin mountain air—trust me on this. After our summit push, as we descended back to Camp 4 and took some time to rest before heading down to Camp 2, we observed many climbers arriving from Camp 3. They were particularly eager for a sip of Coke, some even willing to pay a premium, driven by sheer desperation. So, remember: Coke, Coke, Coke—make sure you have it with you. It’s more than just a beverage up there; it’s a small luxury that can provide a big morale boost.
Protein powder meals and energy CHews
This aspect of preparation involves trial and error, and it’s crucial as you build up to an Everest expedition: make sure to test various kinds of meals. On the mountain, solid meals can become difficult to consume due to the extreme environment and altitude-induced appetite loss. An effective hack is to opt for quick, protein-powered meals, ensuring that you still receive the necessary nutrition without the struggle of heavy digestion.
One strategy I adopted was incorporating RecPak and Ka’Chava into my diet. These meal replacements are not only nutritious but also easy to prepare and consume in challenging conditions. They offer a balanced blend of proteins, vitamins, and minerals, which can be a game-changer when traditional eating becomes cumbersome. These meals provide a convenient way to maintain energy levels and nutritional intake when solid foods are less appealing or harder to digest. Testing different meal options before your expedition is essential to discover what works best for your body at altitude, ensuring you can maintain your strength and focus on the climb ahead.
Energy chews are another favorite of mine, especially during climbing. I prefer them over energy gels, which can freeze in extreme cold. Chews are incredibly handy; they're easy to carry, don't freeze, and provide a quick, substantial energy boost exactly when I need it. I've found them particularly useful during short breaks in climbing, as they are not only convenient but also effective in delivering that much-needed punch of energy. GU energy chews are my go to.
Khumbu cough and rest/recovery at lower altitudes
Khumbu cough and related sicknesses are almost an inevitable part of any Everest expedition. Most climbers experience these ailments during their journey, with the specific cause of such widespread occurrence not entirely understood. However, a plausible reason could be the close quarters and shared paths among climbers from various teams, facilitating the rapid spread of viruses.
If you find yourself feeling under the weather, which could indicate the onset of Khumbu cough or another sickness, I strongly recommend taking immediate action. Descending to a lower altitude, such as Lukla or even Kathmandu, can be crucial. Given the frequent helicopter flights servicing these areas, securing a ride to receive medical attention and recover at a lower altitude should be manageable. Returning with improved health can make a significant difference in your ability to continue the climb.
During our rest and recovery days, I experienced the onset of the Khumbu cough while we were taking a rest day in Namche Bazaar after we finished our final acclimatisation rotation. Unfortunately, other members of our team had already contracted the illness, and on the last day of our acclimatization period, I too fell ill. As we were scheduled to fly to base camp the following day, we decided to postpone our departure by two days due to my and other member’s health, which was at about 30-40% of its normal capacity.
On returning to base camp the next day stopped in Lukla, where I immediately felt a difference in the air quality and a resurgence of energy—suggesting that Lukla could be a viable option for recovery. This experience underscores the importance of listening to your body and being flexible with your itinerary to accommodate necessary health measures. Proper acclimatization and readiness to adapt plans are key to managing and overcoming altitude sickness and other health issues during high-altitude expeditions.
Rest and Recovery at lower altitude
Namche Bazaar 3430M
Our team uses a strategic acclimatization rest at Namche Bazaar for effective rest and recovery (R&R). After rotations to Camp 2 and 3, we helicopter from Base Camp to Namche to spend 3-4 days recuperating. This lower altitude offers thicker air and a chance to enjoy varied foods, significantly aiding in recovery. We found this R&R period essential before the final summit push, allowing climbers to rejuvenate physically and mentally. I highly recommend incorporating a similar strategy to enhance overall performance and summit success.
TEAM
By the time you are poised to attempt a commercial climb of Everest, you will likely have undertaken numerous preparatory climbs under the guidance of either a local Sherpa or an international guide. This is crucial, as Everest and other extreme altitude peaks subject climbers to intense emotional and physical challenges. During these preliminary climbs, your guide will have the opportunity to become intimately familiar with your strengths and weaknesses in mountainous environments. This relationship forms a vital bond that can prove indispensable when facing the toughest moments of the climb.
I can confidently say that the success of our expedition was significantly influenced by our guides, who had previously climbed with each team member, understood each person's capabilities, and knew how to motivate and push us effectively. The familiarity and trust built with our guides were crucial, especially in moments when we were on the brink of exhaustion. Therefore, it is essential to have a guide who not only knows you well but also has the ability to inspire and drive you forward when you feel like giving up. This connection can make all the difference in achieving your goal of reaching the summit.
Affermations
During the grueling push from Camp 3 to Camp 4, and then from Camp 4 to the summit, where winds reached a harrowing 40-50 mph, two specific affirmations proved crucial in helping me and my team persevere through the toughest moments.
The first comes from David Goggins, a man whose resilience and sheer mental fortitude are nothing short of inspirational. His mantra, “Who’s gonna carry the boats?” became a rallying cry for me when mental fatigue began to set in.
The second affirmation was a morning ritual: “It will get tougher, it will be harder, but today is not the day we give up. Today we march, one step at a time. You chose this, and it will be difficult. This is Everest. So today is not the day to give in.” During the climb this helped me, could not quantify then but as I now reflected back this was a powerful affermations that really helped me during the climb.
These affirmations not only bolstered our physical stamina but also strengthened our mental resilience, proving indispensable throughout the journey to the summit.
Bonus Suggestion: Express Climb
If you're capable, opting for an "Everest Express Climb" can be a highly effective strategy for conquering the world's highest peak. This approach is not for everyone; it requires meeting specific prerequisites and involves rigorous preparation.
To consider this strategy, you must first ensure you meet all the prerequisites. Specialized training is essential, which should include expert assistance.
There are several reasons to opt for the express route, but a key benefit is minimizing your exposure to the harsh conditions of the Khumbu region. This strategy is particularly advantageous as it reduces the time spent in extreme conditions, thereby decreasing the likelihood of illness. Being sick at high altitudes is challenging to overcome and can significantly impact your strength and recovery, even after you've recuperated. By shortening your time on the mountain through an express climb, you can potentially avoid these complications and maintain a higher level of health throughout your expedition.
I hope you found this blog article engaging and that the suggestions offered will assist you in preparing for your upcoming Everest climb or any other mountaineering expedition. Climbing mountains is undoubtedly challenging, but it stands as one of the most rewarding adventures that can deeply fulfill your soul. I trust that you will be able to utilize these tips, along with your own tricks, to enjoy a safe and successful climb.
Mountaineering is a close-knit community, and my wish is for everyone to have a successful and safe expedition, leaving you with feelings of contentment and joy.
Thank you and Namaste. I look forward to seeing you in the mountains. Let’s go live that daring story. After all, that is all we have.
Much love & Namaste 🙏🏼
Bisesh - Chief Adventurer
Namas Adventure
2024 Namas Adventure Everest Team.
How Much Does It Cost to Climb Annapurna 1? - Namas Adventure
Annapurna 1
Ready to take on the challenge of climbing Annapurna 1, one of the most formidable 8000M peaks known for its daunting challenges and avalanches? If you're planning to climb Annapurna 1, this blog post outlines the financial commitment required. At Namas Adventure, we offer two tailored programs to meet your needs: the Standard Program and the Express Program, available upon inquiry. Let’s explore the costs and what each program includes to ensure you're fully prepared for this unparalleled adventure.
annapurna 1 Expedition Overview
Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for Annapurna 1 climb:
Standard Annapurna Expedition: 35-40 Days
Express program (upon inquiry): 19 Days or less
These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.
Standard Expedition Costs
The Standard Annapurna 1 Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. Our all inclusive cost includes:
Cost: $35,000 per person
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.
Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides with over five guided summits at several 8000M & 7000M expeditions.
Helicopter Services: Acclimatisation hike point to Base camp and base camp to Pokhara
Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.
Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.
Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.
Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.
Annapurna Express Expedition Costs
The Annapurna Express Expedition is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.
Cost: From $49,000+ per person.
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.
Guiding Services: Highly experienced IFMGA guides and additional support or two NMA certified guides with significant 8000M, 7000M and 6000M climbing experiences.
Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 8 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.
Helicopter Services: Shared flight between Pokhara - Annapurna BC - Pokhara
Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.
Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.
Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 6 oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.
Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.
Additional Costs
From $10,000 - $20,000+
International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.
Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.
Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.
Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.
Summit Bonuses: $1,500 per guide.
Group Tips: $500 per person. Customary for support guides and kitchen staff.
Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers and mountaineering courses.
High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,
Everest Adds-On: $67000 P/P+
Conclusion
Embarking on an Annapurna climb is a decision that resonates deeply within the mountaineering community. Successfully completing this expedition not only challenges you physically and mentally but also earns you considerable respect among fellow climbers.
Our Standard Program offers a comprehensive yet affordable pathway, while the Express Expedition provides a quicker, more luxurious experience. Both options are designed to help you achieve your mountaineering ambitions with tailored support and amenities.
For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Annapurna Expedition Page and Namas Adventure’s Express Expedition Page.
Embarking on an Annapurna climb is a decision that not every climber makes lightly. The risks involved are well understood, and a key part of preparing for such a formidable challenge involves understanding the associated costs. This initial step is crucial as you plan and prepare for the journey towards the summit, ensuring you are fully equipped and informed for the adventure ahead.
Join us and take on Annapurna I with the Namas team. Let’s write your Annapurna 1 story.
Live Your Story
How Much Does It Cost to Climb Manaslu? - Namas Adventure
Archives from 2024 Manaslu Expedition
Climbing Manaslu offers an accessible entry into the 8000M category, making it a popular choice for climbers looking to take on an 8000er challenge. It is known as one of the more affordable options for 8000M expeditions. If Manaslu is part of your climbing goals, understanding the financial commitment is essential. Namas Adventure offers two distinct climbing programs for Manaslu: the Standard Program and the Express Program. Let's explore the costs and what's included in these popular Manaslu climbing programs to help you prepare effectively.
Manaslu Expedition Overview
Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for climbing Mount Everest:
Standard Manalsu Expedition: 30 Days
Manaslu Express: 21 Days or less
These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.
Standard Expedition Costs
The Standard Manaslu Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. The costs are divided into three tiers:
Cost: $18,850 per person
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.
Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides
Helicopter Services: Ktm - Samagaon. Samagoan - Ktm
Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.
Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.
Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.
Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.
Manaslu Express Expedition Costs
Manaslu express program is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.
Cost: From $33,000 per person.
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.
Guiding Services: Highly experienced NMA certified guide with several Manaslu summit and additional assistant guide
Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 10 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.
Helicopter Services: Transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, Lobuche, and Base Camp.
Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.
Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.
Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 6 personal oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.
Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.
Additional Costs
From $10,000 - $20,000+
International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.
Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.
Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.
Internet at Base Camp: $300+ for internet cards.
Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.
Summit Bonuses: $1,500 per guide
Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers
High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,
Annapurna IV 7525M Add-On: $12,000
Conclusion
Climbing Manaslu is a transformative experience, set in a mountain steeped in significant spirit. No 8000M climb is straightforward, and while Manaslu is less crowded compared to Everest, it serves as an exceptional gateway for those seeking a singular 8000M challenge. Our Standard program provides a comprehensive yet accessible approach, while the Express Expedition offers a luxurious, time-efficient alternative. Both are designed to help you achieve your mountaineering aspirations with varying levels of support and amenities, tailored to your needs.
For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Manaslu Expedition Page and Manaslu Express Expedition Page.
Want to climb atleast one 8000M mountain? Join us to Manalsu 8163M to take on your dream adventure. Let’s write your 8000M story with team NAMAS.
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7000M and 8000M expedition 2025 departures - Namas Adventure
Planning your next high-altitude adventure? Namas Adventure's 2025 departures for 7000M and 8000M peaks cater to climbers of varying skills, from entry-level enthusiasts to advanced level climbers. For more detailed information about each expedition, please click on the expedition name.
7000M
Entry Level
Perfect for climbers with basic technical skills and a good fitness level. Climbers must have experience at altitudes over 5000M - 6000M and are looking to push their limits further:
Intermediate Level
Ideal for those with some high-altitude experience, good technical skills, and fitness level.
Advanced Level
Suitable for climbers with advanced skills and experience.
8000M
Entry Level
For climbers with intermediate technical skills and great fitness. Must have previous experience at altitudes over 6000M, including at least one 7000M peak.
Advanced Level
The ultimate test for top-tier climbers, requiring advanced technical knowledge and peak physical fitness.
Whether you're looking to step up your climbing game or tackle the world's highest peaks, Namas Adventure has an expedition for you. Join us to reach beyond the clouds and achieve the extraordinary in 2025.
Inquire here
Namas Adventure Team
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Exploring the Summits: How Many Climbers Have summited Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South?
Annapurna massif range seen from Pokhara. Annapurna south (left), Machhapuchre Fish tail (middle), Annapurna 1, Annapurna 4, Annapurna 2 and Annapurna 3.
The Annapurna Range, with its towering peaks and breathtaking landscapes, has long captivated mountaineers in search of the ultimate challenge. From the notorious dangers of Annapurna 1 to the awe-inspiring beauty of Annapurna South, and from the treacherous slopes of Annapurna 2 to the demanding ascent of Annapurna 3, capped by the elusive and shy summit of Annapurna 4, each peak holds its own tale of triumph, endurance, and exploration. But how many have successfully conquered these majestic giants?
In this blog, we delve into the total number of summit records on Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South.
SUMMITS (1955 -2024)
Annapurna 1, 8091M: 476 Summits
Annapurna 2, 7937M: 16 Summits
Annapurna 3, 7555M: 34 Summits
Annapurna 4, 7525M: 138 Summits
Annapurna South, 7219M: 35 Summits
The Annapurna Range stands as one of the least climbed and most revered regions in the Himalayas. While the Khumbu region draws the majority of climbers to its towering peaks, the Annapurna range offers something different—a raw, untamed experience reserved for those seeking true wilderness and personal discovery.
In the modern era, where accolades and records often take precedence, the essence of mountaineering can sometimes be lost. But climbing in the Annapurnas isn’t about simply conquering a summit; it’s about embracing the journey, the hardships, and the introspection that comes with each step. These remote peaks demand respect, and the path to the top is often a deeply personal one.
The challenge of the Annapurna climbs lies not just in their technical difficulty, but in the solitude and purity they offer. With fewer climbers and less attention, these mountains become a sanctuary for true explorers, where every ascent feels like a pioneering achievement. You may even find yourself among the few who have reached these exclusive summits, but that isn't the ultimate goal.
For those seeking even more, we invite you to look beyond Annapurna. Western Nepal offers another realm of untouched beauty and challenging climbs. Dhaulagiri and Putha Hiunchuli, towering and remote, present some of the most pristine and unexplored expeditions in the Himalayas. However, that’s a journey deserving of its own story—one we’ll dive into in a different article.
Mountaineering is, at its core, about falling in love with the process—the struggle, the beauty, and the unpredictability of the climb. In the Annapurnas, the journey will shape you far more than the destination. And that is the heart of what climbing in these majestic mountains is truly about.
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NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM
NAMAS team near the final section of Annapurna 4 summit, Annapurna 2, 7937M summit seen behind .
How Much Does It Cost to Climb Mount Everest ?
If you've ever dreamed of conquering the world's highest peak, understanding the financial commitment is crucial. Climbing Mount Everest offers unparalleled challenges and rewards, and Namas Adventure provides two distinct programs to suit your needs: the Standard Program and the Express Program. Let's break down the costs and inclusions for these popular Everest climbing programs.
Everest Expedition Overview
Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for climbing Mount Everest:
Standard Everest Expedition: 45-53 days
Everest Express Expedition: 21 - 30 days
These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.
Standard Everest Expedition Costs
The Standard Everest Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. The costs are divided into three tiers:
Tier 1: $73,000 per person
Tier 2: $67,000 per person (does not include helicopter services)
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.
Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides with over five summits.
Helicopter Services: Included in Tier 1 services for transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, and Base Camp. Rest days in BC - Namche - BC
Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.
Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.
Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.
Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.
Everest Express Expedition Costs
The Everest Express Expedition is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.
Cost: From $95,000 per person.
Inclusions:
Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.
Guiding Services: Highly experienced IFMGA guides and additional support from Sherpa staff.
Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 10 to 12 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.
Helicopter Services: Transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, Lobuche, and Base Camp.
Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.
Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.
Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 20+ oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.
Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.
More inclusion information on our website - Click here
Exclusions:
International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.
Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.
Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.
Additional Costs
From $10,000 - $20,000+
International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.
Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.
Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.
Internet at Base Camp: $300+ for internet cards.
Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.
Summit Bonuses: $1,500 - $3,500 per guide.
Group Tips: $500 - $1000 per person. Customary for support guides and kitchen staff.
Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers and mountaineering courses.
High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,
Lhotse 8516M Add-On: $18,000 for an additional 8000M climb.
Conclusion
Climbing Mount Everest is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that comes with significant costs. The Standard Everest Expedition offers a comprehensive approach at a more accessible price point, while the Everest Express Expedition provides a luxurious and expedited time-efficient option. Both programs ensure a pathway to achieving your mountaineering dreams with varying levels of support and amenities.
For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Everest Expedition Page and Namas Adventure’s Everest Express Expedition Page.
Embarking on an Everest climb is a monumental decision, and understanding the costs involved is the first step towards reaching your summit.
Namas Founder - Bisesh. Everest Summit 2024 Spring (May 20th)
Everything You Need to Know About the Annapurna 1, 8091M Expedition
Annapurna 1, standing at 8,091 meters (26,545 feet), is the 10th highest peak in the world and is renowned for being one of the most challenging 8000M+ expeditions. Climbing this peak is a significant achievement that demands extensive preparation, endurance, and skill. Successful expeditions to Annapurna one have become more frequent, but the mountain remains one of the most difficult among the 8000-meter peaks. This comprehensive guide will cover everything you need to know about the Annapurna one expedition, including the best time to climb, costs, unique offerings by Namas Adventure, historical context, and essential logistics.
When is the Best Time to Climb Annapurna 1?
Spring (March-May) is considered the best time to climb Annapurna 1. During this period, the weather is relatively stable, climbing conditions are optimal, and temperatures are more manageable, reducing the risk of severe weather disruptions. The clear skies and favorable conditions make this the ideal window for a successful summit.
Cost of Annapurna 1 Expedition
Our cost for the Annapurna 1 expedition is detailed on our (website - click here). This includes premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, focusing on your safety, successful summit, experiencing local culture, and having fun. Here’s a detailed list of what's included in your booking:
Certified Guide Leader: Certified guide leader to ensure safety and expert guidance.
Helicopter Services: Shared helicopter services from Pokhara to Annapurna 1 base camp and from Base Camp to Pokhara.
Accommodations: Two nights before the expedition in Kathmandu and one night after the expedition in Pokhara and Kathmandu hotel.
Permits and Fees: All necessary trekking and climbing permits.
Gear and Equipment: Expedition tents (single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps) and other essential climbing equipment.
Oxygen Supply: 2 X supplemental oxygen cylinders for client use.
Meals and Logistics: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner on trek and expedition days, along with lodge accommodation during the trek.
Support Team: A head chef and kitchen helpers, additional Sherpa support, porters, and a comprehensive first aid kit.
Waste Management: Dedicated high-altitude porters to transport waste from higher camps to Base Camp for proper disposal.
For a detailed breakdown of what is included in the cost, please refer to the Annapurna 1 expedition PDF
Unique Value proposition by Namas Adventure
Namas Adventure distinguishes itself with a strong commitment to responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountaineering practices. Here are some key highlights of what sets us apart:
Annapurna specialist: Our team at Namas Adventure excels in extreme altitude mountaineering, especially within the Annapurna region. With unparalleled local knowledge and highly experienced guides, we are among the best teams to climb with on Annapurna 1.
Local Expertise: We possess extensive local expertise and strong connections to ensure a seamless and efficient expedition. Our seasoned guiding team is integral to the smooth running of your journey, allowing you to focus on the climb and the experience.
Individualized Preparations/Planning: Members participating in our Annapurna 1 team undergo strict pre-qualification checks. Once members sign up, we gain deeper insights into each client's needs and create personalized preparation plans. We understand that each member has a unique set of strengths, weaknesses, and requirements, so our approach is tailored to address these individual aspects effectively.
Premium client Services: To enhance safety and comfort, we provide convenient helicopter services, including flights to base camp after acclimatization hikes in the Annapurna region. Upon completion of the expedition, we offer a return from base camp to Pokhara, ensuring a stress-free travel experience.
Waste Management: Namas Adventure implements strict waste management protocols to minimize our environmental impact. This includes the use of WAGBAGs at higher camps and transporting waste to designated landfill sites, preserving the pristine beauty of the mountains.
Additional guide support system,: We prioritize personalized attention and safety with a high guide-to-client ratio, 1:1 guide-to-client arrangement with additional support Sherpa team in the team. Additional Sherpa support further ensures that every client receives the guidance and care needed for a successful and memorable expedition.
History, Significance, and the First Ascent
The first ascent of Annapurna 1 was achieved by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. This historic climb marked the first successful summit of an 8000-meter peak.
High Camps and Acclimatization Strategy
Annapurna 1 expeditions typically have four high camps:
Base Camp (4,190m/13,747ft)
Camp I (5,150m/16,896ft)
Camp II (5,700m/18,700ft)
Camp III (6,500m/21,325)
Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)
Summit (8,091m/26,545ft)
Our team will conduct an acclimatisation hike before reaching the base camp and then conduct two rotations between camps 1,2 and 3. The most common route to the summit of Annapurna 1 is the Northwest Ridge route.
Which is the most dangerous section in the Annapurna 1 expedition?
The most dangerous section of the Annapurna 1 climb lies between Camps 2, 3, and 4. This area is particularly hazardous due to its vertical geography, which includes avalanche-prone zones, hard blue ice, and massive hanging seracs, making the ascent extremely challenging.
The steep and exposed south face of Annapurna 1 rises 3,000 meters from the base camp to the summit, making it one of the most perilous climbs in the world. This face is notorious for its high risk of avalanches and rockfalls, posing significant dangers to climbers. The steep terrain, combined with frequent avalanches in this zone, further increases the difficulty and risk involved in the ascent.
What can climbers expect during the summit push on Annapurna 1?
The summit push on Annapurna 1 begins from Camp 4 at 7,400 meters. Climbers start their ascent in the early hours, navigating steep, icy slopes under the cover of darkness to avoid daytime avalanche risks. The route involves traversing hard blue ice and climbing through a series of seracs, which are massive, unstable blocks of ice. As daylight breaks, climbers encounter the steepest sections, requiring technical ice-climbing skills. The final approach to the summit is a narrow ridge with breathtaking views on either side, leading to the peak at 8,091 meters. This gruelling and exposed climb tests every ounce of endurance and skill, culminating in the ultimate reward of standing atop one of the world’s highest and most challenging peaks.
Preparation for Annapurna 1 Expedition
Previous Experience Required
Climbers need significant high-altitude experience to attempt Annapurna one. Previous ascents of several 4000M - 6000M climbs and at least one or more 7000-meter peaks are highly recommended. Experience on other 8000M climbs is a bonus. This experience helps climbers understand the physical and mental demands of high-altitude climbing.
Training and Fitness Requirements
Climbers must be in peak physical condition to attempt Annapurna 1. A training plan should focus on endurance, strength, and flexibility. Essential components of the training regimen include:
Long-Distance Running: To build cardiovascular endurance.
Hiking with Heavy Packs: To simulate the weight carried during the climb.
Strength Training: To build the muscle necessary for climbing.
Flexibility Exercises: To maintain agility and prevent injuries.
Technical Skills
Confidence in essential climbing skills, such as ascending and traversing with crampons, using ice axes, and being proficient with rope knots, is crucial for the Annapurna one expedition. Mastery of techniques like jummaring and ascending steep, exposed, and uncomfortable sections is also vital. Whether climbing in the alpine style or classic mountaineering style, having technical knowledge and experience with larger peaks is necessary for a successful Annapurna climb.
Mental Preparation
High-altitude mountaineering is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Experienced climbers recognize that both success and failure are possible outcomes, and understanding this reality is essential. Experience plays a crucial role in building the mental resilience needed to face unforeseen challenges in the mountains.
On Annapurna 1, you will encounter tough climbing environments and difficult days that may make you question your decision to climb. During these times, it is vital to stay mentally strong and sharp, pushing yourself to go that extra inch to successfully and safely complete your expedition. Techniques such as meditation, visualization, and stress management can further enhance mental resilience, helping you navigate the challenges of high-altitude climbing.
Gear and Equipment
Investing in quality gear is recommended at any given expedition and Annapurna 1 is no ordinary case. Please find all the expedition gear required for the Annapurna 1 expedition in the link below.
Safety and Risk Management
Annapurna 1 has one of the highest fatality rates among the 8000-meter peaks due to its extreme altitude, avalanche-prone slopes and technical challenges. Ensuring safety involves:
Thorough Preparation: Detailed planning and rigorous training.
Experienced Guides: Hiring experienced guides with a proven track record. Especially in Nepal, local guides do the heavy work and you need a team of Sherpa guides who can do both the heavy lifting and safe guiding.
Safety Protocols: Strict adherence to safety protocols and being prepared for emergencies.
Health Monitoring: Regular health checks and immediate descent in case of severe altitude sickness symptoms.
Key Achievements and Records
The range of ages among those who have climbed Annapurna 1 is staggering. The youngest person to climb Annapurna 1 was Nima Rinji Sherpa at 17 years old, while the oldest was 60-year-old Carlos Soria Fontan from Spain. Several disabled climbers have also reached the summit, showcasing the inclusivity and determination within the mountaineering community.
Notable Incidents and Fatalities
Annapurna 1 has seen many fatalities over the years, primarily due to avalanches and falls. Despite these risks, the mountain continues to attract climbers from around the world. The fatality rate has been dropping in recent years due to improved safety measures and better preparation.
Importance of LOCAL Experienced Guides
Local experienced guides are essential for navigating the technical challenges and ensuring safety on Annapurna 1. According to Nepalese law, a local guide is required for high-altitude expeditions above 6,000 meters. Even experienced climbers benefit greatly from the local knowledge and expertise that these guides provide.
Sherpa guides are particularly vital in these expeditions, as they handle most of the heavy lifting, carrying all necessary logistics to higher camps 1-4, and play a key role in guiding clients. Their strength and expertise, along with their ability to coordinate with other team members, are crucial for the success of the Annapurna expedition or any extreme climbing endeavour.
In contrast, Western guides do not carry loads to the higher camps, highlighting the unique and indispensable role that Sherpa guides play in high-altitude climbing.
Nutrition and Hydration
Proper nutrition and hydration are crucial for maintaining energy and health during an expedition. Each climber should understand their personal meal plans for the higher camps. Although it can be challenging to eat at high altitudes when losing appetite and the challenges of cooking proper meals, freeze-dried meals, snack/energy bars, protein powders, and vitamin supplements are excellent alternatives.
Your guiding team will prepare water at the higher camps, but it's essential for climbers to drink 4-6 litres of water daily to stay hydrated and aid acclimatization. Beverages like Coke and fruit juices can also be helpful and enjoyable for staying hydrated and maintaining energy levels.
Insurance and Emergency Evacuation
Comprehensive travel and medical insurance are essential, covering high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuations. Helicopter evacuation is the primary method of emergency transport in the Annapurna region. Climbers should ensure their insurance policy includes this coverage. Along with evacuations, your insurance should cover the following
Cancellation or curtailment
Helicopter rescue
Repatriation
The altitude that you are expected to attain
Grade of trek/climb/expedition
Medical cover
Next climbing goals after Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition
K2 8611M
K2 8611M
K2 stands as a formidable challenge following the Annapurna 1 expedition.
Challenge yourself to a new level with a combined 8,000-meter expedition to both Everest and Lhotse in a single journey.
Or take on the challenge of a double Annapurna climb by summiting both Annapurna 2 and 4, part of the stunning Annapurna massif.
Conclusion
Climbing Annapurna one, 8091M is a monumental achievement that requires meticulous preparation, unwavering determination, and respect for the mountain. With Namas Adventure, climbers can focus on the challenge and enjoyment of the climb, knowing that every detail is taken care of. Proper planning, expert guidance, and a commitment to safety and sustainability ensure a successful and memorable expedition.
For more information and to book your expedition, visit our Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition page.
“On Annapurna, every step tests your limits, but it's in those moments of doubt and struggle that you discover your true strength and resilience. The mountain demands respect, and in return, it offers the rarest of rewards: a deeper understanding of yourself.” - Maurice Herzog, Annapurna, First Conquest
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Visual journey Everest 8848.86 Expedition Nepal
Early reminder - Click to enlarge on images
Climbing Mount Everest is not just an expedition; it's a breathtaking journey through some of the most visually stunning landscapes on Earth. From the ascent through the Khumbu Icefall's towering seracs to the vast, snow-covered expanse of the Western Cwm, each phase of the climb offers unique, awe-inspiring vistas. The thrill of ascending past the South Col into the thin air of the "Death Zone" combines a mix of fear, exhilaration, and awe, as climbers are surrounded by the world's highest peaks piercing the sky. Reaching the summit rewards adventurers with a panoramic spectacle of rugged peaks under a pristine sky, where the sheer majesty of nature is palpable, making the grueling climb a profoundly transformative experience.
Lukla to Lobuche village
Our Everest expedition journey begins in the cultural city of Kathmandu. Here, we meet the team, conduct expedition briefings, and perform a final gear check. After two days, we fly to Lukla via helicopter and start our beautiful trek through the Khumbu region, visiting picturesque villages like Namche, Phortse, Pangboche, Dingboche, and finally Lobuche.
Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu via helicopter
Lobuche East Acclimatisation
Our first acclimatization rotation is at Lobuche East Peak, reaching an altitude of 6,119 meters. This climb helps us practice technical skills and properly acclimatize before heading to Everest Base Camp.
Learn more about Lobuche East 6119M peak climbing here.
First Everest acclimatisation, Lobuche East Peak 6119M
Base Camp 5436M
Base Camp is our home for the entire expedition. We conduct puja ceremonies, and acclimatization rotations, and enjoy a well-equipped camp setup. Facilities include a kitchen, dining area, rest dome tent, communication tent, and toilets. We will also acclimatize at Kalapatthar and Pumori High Camp (5,600m) while waiting for the summit ropes to be fixed.
Khumbu Ice Fall
Traning at Khumbu Ice Fall
The SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) team fixes the icefall route, and we spend a day training near our base camp. We practice climbing techniques, ladder navigation, jumaring, and abseiling. This refresher training ends with some fun ice climbing on the glacier.
Ice fall route to camp 1 (Max 8 hours)
Once the SPCC announces that the route is fixed, we begin our climb through the icefall to Camp 1. Our first rotation helps us acclimatize and familiarize ourselves with the challenging icefall route.
Camp 1, 6100M
Camp 1 is set up on terraced ice walls, offering stunning views of Everest 8848.86, Lhotse 8516M, and Nuptse 7861M. We spend two nights acclimatizing here before moving to Camp 2.
Camp 1 to Camp 2, 6500M (4 - 5 hours)
The climb to Camp 2 is relatively easy, following a zigzag flat surface and avoiding crevasses. We aim to reach Camp 2 early to avoid the intense sunlight.
Camp 2 - Camp 3, 7100M+ (4-6 hours)
The climb to Camp 3 starts with a flat hike to the base of the Lhotse wall, followed by a steep, vertical ascent. Camp 3 is set up halfway through the Lhotse face wall.
Tiny black dots of climbers moving to camp 3
Camp 3 - Camp 4, 7950M (8-10 hours)
We begin a further vertical climb to Camp 4, passing the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur. This is a tough day with little opportunity to rest
Everest Camp 4
Camp 4 - South Balcony, 8400m (4 - 6 hours)
Starting early, we push for the summit, moving through the Everest South Col route. The views from the South Balcony are spectacular, offering a glimpse of the Tibetan plateau and the Himalayas.
Camp Hillary Ridge, 8790m (3-4 hours)
The climb above the South Balcony towards the South Summit is all uphill before reaching the iconic Hillary Ridge. The Hillary Ridge is exposed and uneven. Climbing higher up the ridge leads to the summit of Everest, the highest point on Earth. The panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, and Kanchenjunga are unparalleled, making the grueling climb worthwhile.
Summit 8848.86M
Summit of Everest 8848.86M
Descend. Going up is optional, coming down is mandatory.
Reaching the summit of Everest 8848.86, the highest point on our planet, is an unparalleled experience. On a clear summit day, the panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, Kanchenjunga, and countless other 7000m and 6000m peaks are truly breathtaking. This unique feeling is known only to those who have made the climb.
We offer exclusive small team expeditions (8-12 climbers) both Standard and Express expedition options on both the South and North sides of Everest (beginning in 2026). If climbing Everest is your dream, join our dedicated and expert team to make it a reality.
Is summiting Everest/Lhotse your ultimate dream goal adventure? We have departures every spring. For more information on our Everest expedition or any of our other expeditions, please visit our website.
Feel free to call or WhatsApp us at +1 347-476-9547, or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com. We look forward to helping you achieve your mountaineering dreams.
Let’s write you top of the world story.
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Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition
Everest Expedition 8848M
Note - Mt. Everest is officially a little higher. 8848.86M / 29,031.69FT (2020 new measurement)
1. When is the best time to climb Mt. Everest?
Spring (April-May) is the best time to climb Everest. All major commercial expeditions are organised during spring.
2. How much does Mt. Everest expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With our team, Namas Adventure team, your Everest expedition costs (website - click here). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. 🚁 Helicopter services to Lukla and rest day rotations BC - Namche Bazaar - BC and return to Lukla after your summit. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture, and having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holidays and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
🚁 Shared helicotper Kathmandu to Lukla. BC to Kathmandu and to Kathmandu.
🚁 to Namche Bazzar for 3-4 days and fly back to BC
✈️ Kathmandu or Ramechap - Lukla - Kathmandu or Ramechap (for members without helicopter option)
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff).Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu - Lukla. Base Camp - Namche Bazaar - BC. Base Camp - Lukla (Once the expedition ends)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
2:1 or 1:1 Guide/client ratio
1 Additional Sherpa Support for every 2 climbing members
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. Single room. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents, a single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
8 or 16 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use
60 kgs personal weight
Meals for Camps 1 - 4
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
The arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. How is namas operating Mt. Everest expedition differently?
We will have a dedicated high-altitude porter(s) to transport our waste from Camps 1 and 2 to Base Camp. The client-leading Sherpa team will assist in bringing the waste down from Camps 3 and 4 to Camp 2 during rotations and the summit descent.
WAGBAG
All members are required to bring a wag bag for use at higher camps and to carry their wag bags down to Base Camp for proper disposal. While this might seem standard practice, not every company does this. We have been implementing this protocol since our first Everest expedition.
Once waste reaches Base Camp, it will be securely sealed and transported via yak down to the valley for proper disposal at a designated landfill site. We firmly believe that when conducting expedition operations in our mountains, we have a moral duty to protect the environment and keep it clean for future generations.
There is a growing concern about pollution and waste being left on the mountains. This is a legitimate concern that we share. In line with our commitment to sustainable values, we are implementing these waste management strategies and continuously improving our program to address this issue.
We appreciate your cooperation in maintaining the pristine condition of our beautiful mountains.
4. The first ascent and debate
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition led by Lord John Hunt from the Nepal south col side. There is also the debate on whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the top of Everest from North side (tibet), on the final push of the 1924 expedition. They went missing soon after. No one knows whether they reached the top, a feat that, if proved, would rewrite climbing history.
5. The oldest and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest
The range of ages among those who have climbed Everest is staggering. The oldest person was Yuichiro Miura from Japan at 80 in 2013, while the youngest was American Jordan Romero at 13 in 2010.
A number of disabled climbers have reached the summit, including blind American Erik Weihenmayer in 2001 and double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand in 2006.
6. How many people have died on Everest?
Sadly 308 people have died on Everest, between 1922 and 2021. 165 have died on the Nepali side, while the remainder died on the Tibetan North side.
On 18 April 2014, 16 high-altitude local workers, including 13 Sherpas, were killed in the Khumbu Icefall below Camp 1, following a serac collapse on the mountain’s west shoulder. It was the worst single loss of life in the mountain’s history.
Despite this tragic loss of life, the fatality rate on Everest has been dropping in recent years, both for foreign climbers and hired high-altitude workers. According to the Himalayan Database – a useful resource for research on Everest – there were 61 deaths between 1950 and 1999 among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 1.52%. Between 2000 and 2014 there were 31 fatalities among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 0.57% – based on the number of journeys through the icefall.
7. Who holds the most Everest summit record?
Nepalese Sherpas hold the record for the most ascents. Kami Rita Sherpa X 29 summits and on second Ngima Nuru Sherpa X 22 summits.
8. How many climbing routes are there to climb Everest?
There are seventeen different routes to climb Everest. The two most famous and standard routes are South Col from Nepal and North Ridge from Tibet.
More detailed climbing routes on Alan Arnett's blog: https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12/28/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2018-edition/
Image from Alan Arnett Blog site
9. What experience do climbers need to climb Mt. Everest? Are guides necessary to climb Mt. Everest?
If you are a total beginner then you will definitely want to check out our Road to Everest program.
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 7000M and 1 X 8000M+ of any alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mt. Everest. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get the wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
For intermediate experience level climbers with no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience we highly suggest you build and gain the right experience before committing to climb Everest. Patience and right skill and experience is key and mostly the difference between death and survival in Everest.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
10. How many high camps are there on Mount Everest?
Strategically with Everest expedition we will have 4 high altitude camps.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 2 (6400M/20,997ft)
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M/23,622+ft)
South Col or Camp 4 (7906M/25,938ft)
11. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Mt. Everest expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
On our Everest Expedition, our team will climb Lobuche East 6119M for their acclimatization/training peak and we will strategically conduct several rotations between Camp 1 - 3 to acclimatise properly.
During the main expedition, our base camp will be fully stationed and extra facilities will be available. We will conduct training day and several rotation to acclimatise during our expedition. More details are on our Everest climbing strategy.
Note - If you want to shorten your Everest (Express) itinerary to 45 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
12. What training is required/experience for Mt. Everest expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Everest is the ultimate climb for many and by no means is an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M and 1X 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the ice fall or even the high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
13. How hard is Mt. Everest climbing expedition?
Everest expedition is graded at E / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 45 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Everest base camp our first objective challenge of navigating the great Khumbu icefall begins, mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, climbing on ladders just between the crevasse and ascending up the huge icefall to camp 1. As we go into higher elevation breathing will be challenging but with proper rotation acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment. You can expect to climb around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp 3 or camp 2 and then descend towards base camp the next day. Our teams will already have set up Everest base camp and the remaining 4 camps before client members reach there on their rotation and climbing days. Training walking on ladders, ice climbing and rotations are all meant to prepare you and acclimatize you for your summit. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mt. Everest expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mt. Everest expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Everest Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Mt. Everest Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our Everest base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
15. What trip insurance will I need for Mt. Everest Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
16. Next climbing goals after Mt. Everest Expedition climbing
Everest expedition being one of the most sought out expedition is also one of the expedition with the most organised facilitated expedition. After completing your Everest expedition successfully there are are other mind boggling and challenging/adventure filled expedition which we can recommend.
1. Annapurna 1, 8091m
The iconic Annapurna 1, is known for being one of the difficult and dangerous 8000er to climb.
2. K2, 8611M
K2, another dangeours and difficult second highest peak in the world.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Other related articles:
A Guide to Climbing at-least one 8000M+ Mountain peak
Manaslu 8163M. Considered one of the lesser difficult 8000er
How can I prepare to climb an 8000m peak? I aspire to summit at least one 8000m peak. What steps should I take to fulfill this dream of mine? These are common inquiries we receive from passionate adventurers seeking guidance on their journey to conquer the world's highest peaks.
Is it your dream to climb at least one 8000M+ in your lifetime? If so, then in this blog article we aim to guide you towards how to prepare for an 8000M+ climb through preparatory stages, and which 8000m peak should undoubtedly be on your initial list.
Embarking on the journey to summit an 8000m peak is a dream cherished by many adventurers. In this comprehensive guide, we provide expert advice to prepare you for this monumental endeavor and recommend the ideal peaks to start your journey. Pushing your limits and summiting one of the 8000M peaks on Earth can be an incredibly rewarding and life-changing experience.
Setting Your Goals High: Summiting an 8000m peak epitomizes the ultimate test of endurance, skill, and mental resilience. Few achievements rival the sense of accomplishment gained from conquering these towering giants. By setting your sights on an 8000m peak, you embark on an extraordinary adventure that promises unforgettable experiences and lifelong memories.
Preparation Is Key: Climbing an 8000m peak demands meticulous planning, rigorous training, and expert guidance. Before undertaking such a formidable challenge, it is imperative to undergo comprehensive mountaineering training and seek guidance from seasoned professionals. Additionally, climbing several 4000m-6000m peaks is essential to hone your skills and build confidence for the ultimate ascent.
Gradual Progression: Success in mountaineering requires patience and gradual progression. Before attempting an 8000m expedition, it is advisable to summit at least one 7000m or 7500m peak to acclimatize to higher altitudes and assess your readiness. This incremental approach allows you to gain valuable experience and confidence before tackling the grandeur of an 8000m peak.
Endurance & Strength is Essential: Achieving success at high altitudes necessitates exceptional physical fitness and endurance. Incorporate regular endurance, muscular endurance, and strength training into your routine to build stamina and resilience. Activities such as hiking, running, cycling, and weight training are invaluable in preparing your body for the rigors of high-altitude climbing.
Mind Over Matter: Mental preparedness is just as crucial as physical strength in the realm of mountaineering. Cultivating a positive mindset, envisioning success, and mentally preparing for the trials ahead are paramount. Maintaining focus, determination, and resilience amidst adversity is key to overcoming obstacles and inching closer to your summit goal. While these may seem like clichés, they hold immense significance during the final stages of safely completing your ascent of an 8000m peak.
So, which 8000M+ should you climb? Below are our recommendations
Choosing Your Peak: For climbers with minimum prerequisites, Cho Oyu (8201m) or Manaslu (8163m) stands out as the ideal 8000M mountain expedition. Amongst 8000M mountains, these peaks are renowned for their least difficult terrain, lower fatal rate, and higher success rates, making them favorable choices. However, it's essential to acknowledge the inherent challenges of any mountain expedition and approach each ascent with respect and caution. No mountain expedition should be taken lightly.
Consider Everest: For seasoned climbers with great fitness profiles, with a proven track record of conquering numerous endurance events such as marathons, ultras, and Ironman competitions, coupled with successful ascents on multiple 4000m, 6000m, and 7000m expeditions, Mount Everest beckons as the ultimate challenge. Everest calls upon those who are prepared to push their boundaries and stand atop the world's highest summit.
With an ever-growing community of climbers, well-established teams, and increasingly safer routes compared to other 8000m expeditions, Everest stands as an exceptional choice for individuals possessing exceptional physical fitness, unwavering mental toughness, a wealth of climbing experiences, and the financial means to embark on a guided expedition.
Moreover, considering the inclusion of Lhotse 8516M alongside Everest offers a compelling proposition. With approximately 70% of the route overlapping, this can fit right in the mix for double 8000er.
In Conclusion: Embarking on the journey to climb an 8000m peak is an extraordinary endeavor that promises unparalleled rewards. While meticulous planning, physical fitness, and preparation are essential, it's when the challenges become most daunting that your mental fortitude truly shines. Battling every inch of the mountain, refusing to surrender easily, and persevering through each demanding step are the ultimate keys to success.
Though these principles may seem straightforward in theory, they demand unwavering self-discipline, meticulous planning, relentless self-motivation, and a steadfast commitment to gradual progress from the very moment you commit to pursuing your dream of conquering an 8000m peak. Remember, the journey to success may be challenging, but with unwavering dedication and perseverance, you can ascend to the pinnacle of achievement.
At Namas Adventure, we are dedicated to helping adventurers like yourself turn their dreams into reality and conquer the world's highest peaks. Let's begin by discussing your plans and aspirations, and together, we'll take the necessary steps forward. Allow our experienced team to guide you towards achieving your dream of summiting an 8000m mountain peak.
Your dream adventure awaits—let's make your 8000M dream a reality.
Live Your Story.
Expeditions Mentioned
INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING
IFMGA GUIDED 14 DAYS COURSE.
CHULU FAR EAST 6059M
6000M PEAK EXPEDITIONS
SOLO, COMBO OR THREE PEAKS
7000M EXPEDITIONS
BEGINNER. INTERMEDIATE & ADVANCED LEVEL 7000ER
CHO OYU 8201
MANASLU 8163M
EVEREST/LHOTSE
Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what Makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition - Namas Adventure
In this blog article discover why climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th-highest mountain is considered one of the easier and safest 8000m peaks to climb:
Elevation - At 8,201m, Cho Oyu is in the lowest category of the 8000m peaks, so there is slightly less altitude to acclimatize to compared to giants like Everest (8,848m) or K2 (8,611m).
Standard Route - The normal West Ridge route is relatively straightforward, with no major technical sections or steep pitches. It involves mostly moderate to steep snow climbing.
Gradient - The slope gradients on the standard route don't exceed about 30 degrees, making it less steep than other major 8000ers.
Weather - Cho Oyu sees less severe weather compared to the peaks in the western Himalayas. The post-monsoon season has relatively stable weather.
Camps - There are only 3 camps from the Advanced base camp to the summit, limiting the amount of gear hauling required.
Sherpa Support - 1:1 Sherpa guide with additional Sherpa team for logistics support. Experienced Sherpa teams fix ropes and establish camps, providing crucial support.
Previous Experience mandatory checks- Most climbers tackle Cho Oyu after building experience on lower several 6000M and 7000m peaks first. The Chinese authorities are very strict when approving permits and only allow climbers with proof of a previous 7000M summit certificate to climb Cho Oyu.
Fatality Rate - Historically, Cho Oyu has had a lower death rate compared to other 8000ers. Proper preparation greatly minimizes risks.
In conclusion, Cho Oyu 8201M emerges as an attainable choice for climbers embarking on their first 8000m peak, thanks to its manageable technical difficulty, safely positioned higher camps, and the invaluable support of experienced Sherpa teams. While it offers a relatively lower fatality rate, it is crucial to approach Cho Oyu with the utmost respect and thorough training. Adequate preparation remains paramount to ensure a safe and successful climb.
Are you ready to embark on your dream of climbing an 8000M peak with the lowest fatality rate? Look no further than our Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition. We pride ourselves on keeping our team small and agile, ensuring a high-quality experience focused on your safety and summit achievement. Join us for an unforgettable adventure filled with exhilaration and camaraderie as we conquer Cho Oyu together.
Namas Adventure / Expedition Team
Live Your Story
Annapurna IV 7525M expedition: Pre requisite experiences, fitness level, and skills requirement - Namas Adventure
Annapurna IV, Climbing high above camp 2
What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Annapurna IV? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Annapurna IV?
To undertake a successful ascent of Annapurna IV, individuals must possess a solid foundation in high-altitude mountaineering and alpine-style climbing techniques. This encompasses a high level of proficiency in skills such as scrambling, traversing, and navigating steep and treacherous rocky or icy terrain. Additionally, climbers should be well-versed in the safe and effective use of fixed-line ropes and climbing equipment.
Furthermore, being acclimatized to and comfortable with the cold and harsh mountain conditions prevalent at high altitudes is of utmost importance. It is strongly advised that climbers have prior experience scaling peaks of several 4000M to 6000M elevations, as well as at least one expedition to a 7000-meter that involves technical climbing. This level of experience is crucial for adequately preparing for the challenges inherent in an Annapurna IV expedition.
Climbers with a proven history of successful high-altitude ascents are welcome to consult and undergo an evaluation by our team to assess their eligibility for the Annapurna IV expedition. We encourage climbers to provide us with their climbing portfolio, fitness routines, and expedition plans for a thorough evaluation. While it is important to acknowledge that Annapurna IV is comparatively less prone to objective dangers, it is crucial to recognize that this expedition presents its own set of distinctive challenges and potential hazards. Therefore, it is vital for individuals to be well-prepared and possess the necessary confidence to effectively manage the specific skills and conditions associated with this undertaking.
What are the prerequisites for climbing Annapurna IV?
Two or more 6000M peaks and one 7000M expedition. Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Himlung Himal, Baruntse (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9/5.10 (not a must but a bonus)
Individuals considering an ascent of Annapurna IV should possess a robust background in high-altitude climbing, including a track record of successful climbs on several peaks ranging from 4000 to 6000 meters, as well as at least one 7000-meter peak that requires semi-technical to technical climbing skills. Many climbers opt to include Annapurna IV in their mountaineering journey as a stepping stone to more challenging 8000-meter peaks like Mount Everest or K2. It should be noted that Annapurna IV is not a widely popular climb, making it an ideal expedition for those seeking a remote and less crowded alpine climbing experience.
Fitness level - 4
Our Annapurna IV mountain expedition requires participants to meet a fitness level of 4, indicating an exceptional overall fitness level that encompasses the ability to adapt to and acclimatize in high-altitude environments. This entails possessing a high degree of endurance, strength, and mental resilience, as well as the capacity to endure prolonged exposure to extreme weather conditions. Participants must also be prepared for the physical demands of carrying loads weighing between 8-12 kilograms over multiple days. Given the challenging nature of this expedition, previous experience in high-altitude climbing is highly recommended to adequately prepare both mentally and physically for the altitude and terrain challenges.
Preparing for the demanding conditions of Annapurna IV necessitates significant dedication and effort. Achieving the required fitness level requires a focus on developing high levels of endurance and strength.
As a general indicator of the fitness level required, it is recommended that individuals be capable of running a half marathon to a marathon distance or cycling for 5-6 hours. For those who prefer hiking, being able to carry a load of 25 to 30 kilograms and hike for over 6 hours is a suitable benchmark. Completing a triathlon is also a strong indicator of being in peak physical condition. Improving one's VO2 max is crucial.
In addition, implementing a well-rounded strength and muscle endurance training routine is essential. This can be achieved through various approaches, such as engaging in cross-fit sessions, high-intensity interval training (HIIT) sessions, and kettlebell training. It is important to note that such training should be done under the guidance of a professional trainer or coach to ensure it is tailored to the individual's specific needs and goals.
Skills to be learned.
Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it really simple. So there are five basic skills you must - must know.
Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9 to 5.10. Indoors or outdoors. (For reference check out our - Alpine grading)
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.
Participating in an Annapurna IV (7525M) expedition requires a solid foundation of previous high-altitude climbing experience and a high level of physical fitness. In addition, possessing advanced skills such as rope techniques, outdoor lead climbing, and ice climbing can greatly enhance your chances of success. If you don't have access to mountains in your local area, focusing on indoor and outdoor rock climbing can help you maintain your skills and fitness levels.
While commercial expeditions typically handle logistics, it is still important to be prepared and have a good understanding of the technical aspects of the climb. Thanks to the expertise and competence of Sherpa guide leaders in Nepal, summit attempts on Annapurna IV have become more attainable. It's worth noting that this expedition is not popular among climbers, and only a few teams will be attempting to climb this mountain. Your team should be prepared to fix ropes to the summit, and all members participating in the expedition must be physically and mentally ready to put in the hard work and push themselves to successfully and safely ascend this 7500-meter peak.
It's important to recognize that the success of an expedition relies on the competence of all team members, from operational management to field guides. Once you have enrolled and possess the necessary skills and experience, it is crucial to commit to a physical training regimen to ensure you are fully prepared for the demands of the expedition.
Let’s go climbing. Live Your Story
Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M
Are you ready to take on the magnificent Annapurna IV 7525M in Nepal? If you're eager to take on this breathtaking and demanding peak, and perhaps set your sights even higher on other majestic mountains, the passionate team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is here to make your dream come true! We are thrilled to offer our assistance and answer any questions you may have about the expedition. To get in touch, simply email us at bookings@namasadventure.com or give us a call/WhatsApp at +447446976060. Our dedicated team members are eagerly waiting to help you embark on this incredible journey.
The Best Spring Climbing Expeditions in Nepal: 7000M, 7500M and 8000M - Namas Adventure
Spring is an excellent time for climbing in Nepal, as the weather is generally clear and stable, and the days are longer. There are several popular peaks to tackle during this season, including some of the highest and most challenging mountains in the world. If you're planning a spring climbing expedition in Nepal, here are a few options to consider and you could join us every spring
Mount Everest 8848M and Lhotse 8516M
This is the crown jewel of Nepal's climbing scene, and it's no surprise that many people flock to the country specifically to tackle this iconic peak. Spring is the best and the busiest season on Everest, as the weather is typically the most favorable. However, keep in mind that it's also the most crowded and competitive time to climb, as there are many other teams vying for the same summit window.
Lhotse is located just next to Everest and shares the same base camp and higher camps up to camp 3, so it's a convenient option for climbers who are already in the area. Many teams and our team offer Lhotse as an add-on or as a solo expedition. Lhotse is the fourth-highest peak in the world, and it offers a challenging and rewarding climb for those who are up to the task.
Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 to 60 days
Mt. Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Standing at 8463 meters tall, this peak is located in the northeast region of the country and sits on the border of Nepal and China. As one of the eight-thousanders, Makalu offers a more technically challenging climb than Mt. Everest and is known for its lack of crowds. The spring season is the best time to tackle Makalu, as the weather and snow conditions are generally favorable. With its distinctive pyramid shape and beautiful views, Makalu is a must-climb for those looking to avoid the crowds of the more popular Everest expedition or for those seeking a new challenge after climbing the world's highest peak.
Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 - 45 Days
Located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, Ama Dablam is a beautiful and technically challenging peak that is often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas." It's a popular choice for experienced climbers who are looking for a less crowded alternative to Everest, and the spring season offers the best weather for a successful ascent.
Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 21 - 30 Days
Annapurna I 8091M
Spring is one of the best times to take on the Annapurna massif range. Annapurna I is the tenth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8019 meters tall. Located in north central Nepal, it is part of the Annapurna mountain range and is considered one of the most dangerous peaks to climb due to its steep and unpredictable terrain. Despite the risks, many climbers are drawn to Annapurna I each year due to its beautiful views and challenging routes
Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 - 45 days
Annapurna IV (7525 meter) is a lesser-known peak in the Annapurna mountain range of Nepal, standing at 7525 meters tall. It is located between Annapurna II and III. Despite its relatively low elevation compared to other peaks in the range, Annapurna IV is a challenging climb due to its steep and rocky terrain but less technical and dangerous compared with the other Annapurna peaks.
Level: Intermediate + to Advanced. Time required: 25 - 33 Days
Himlung Himal 7126M
This is another exciting 7000M mountain peak to climb during the spring season. Comprised of bit snowy conditions when compared to the autumn season, Himlung Himal is an exciting peak to climb where there are fewer teams taking on the challenge of climbing during the spring. With the right amount of team members (4+) this 7000er is one of the safest and easiest objectives to take on.
Level: Intermedaite to +. Time required: 25 - 30 days
No matter which peak you choose, it's important to remember that climbing extreme and technical high-altitude peaks in the Himalayas is a serious undertaking that requires a high level of fitness, technical skill, and mental fortitude. Make sure you have the necessary experiences, mindset, and commitment to physical training before venturing into these daring endeavors. Namas expedition team can help you navigate the complexities of planning your expedition. With the right preparation and mindset, a spring climbing goals expedition in Nepal can be an unforgettable and life-changing experience.
Let’s go take on your spring climbing goals.
Namas Adventure Team
Live Your Story
2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions - Namas Adventure
Tendi Sherpa, at the top of the world. Athlete member of Himlai, wearing Himali 8000M down suit
If you have read our 2021 best Mountaineering down suits blog post (link) then those suits are still relevant and solid. There have not been major changes on the brands we listed but there are new players in the game and we believe it’s worth checking them out too. The reason, a lot of these suits performed and made it to the summits of Everest, Makalu, or other extremes/death zone altitude peaks. These new suits in the market can definitely be an option for you.
High-quality mountaineering down suits are a must in any extreme or death zone altitude expeditions. Highly specialized suits and only to be worn high in the Himalayas or during arctic crossing adventures. As you would have already spent a lot on your expedition, high-quality gears are another area where a lot of your expenses (About $7K - $10K USD) will be involved. Cutting corners is not an option, as you would not want to mess up your expedition just because you purchased poor-quality gears. You should be ready to face the weather at extremes during mountaineering adventures at 8000M, such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, or even at 7000M Baruntse, Himlung Himal, or Ama Dablam. Your down suit should be versatile to keep you warm, breathable, and easily adjustable. Below are some of the best 2022 down suits we can recommend for any climbers who are preparing for their 7000M - 8000M+ expeditions in the coming years.
HIMALI - 8000M DOWN SUITS
Himali may be the only brand that gives proper recognition to Nepalese guide members such as Tendi Sherpa, Mingma G (Winter K2 2021), Nima Tenji Sherpa, and Pasang Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa. (Pro-team page). It’s about time, Nepalese Sherpa gets other forms of recognition. Our Kudos to the Himali team 👏🏼
Himali 8000M down suit is designed to withstand the extreme conditions encountered on 8,000m peak expeditions. Built by using Pertex® QuantumPro ripstop nylon shell; it is tightly woven for durability and boasts a built-in microporous coating to repel precipitation. This Down Suit is packed with RDS certified 1000 fill-power HyperDry Down for ultimate premium lightweight warmth. With detail-focused their expedition suit features double chest zippers that work together to stop the wind, keeping this down suit highly functional without adding unneeded weight. The use of bright contrasting color designs helps you to stand out and be seen. It is truly built for the highest and harshest conditions on Earth.
1000 Fill Power RDS Certified HyperDRY™ Down
Pertex® Pro
Windproof & Waterproof
Integrated stuff sack in the left-hand pocket
Eco-DWR coating
Water Expanding Thread
Fleece Lined Front Pockets
YKK® Zippers
Internal Mesh Pockets
Large Hood Lip is designed to protect against wind and snow
Adjustable Wrist Cuffs
Fully Seam Taped
Feathered friends - Expedition Down Suit
Made in Seattle, Washington Feathered friends have been in designing and making expedition down suits for 25 years. The best feature is their down suits are made to order and customizable (3-4 weeks). Their expedition Suit has been the down suit of choice by the world’s foremost mountain athletes and made it to the top of many 8,000m peaks and extensively in the North and South poles. Balancing warmth, weight, and durability, the Expedition Suit is built to defend against the earth’s worst conditions.
900+ Fill Goose Down
Waterproof, breathable Pertex® Shield® XT
Tuck-stitched/baffled construction
Dual zipper front entry
Drop seat rainbow zipper
Adjustable internal suspender system
Leg zips
Two internal water bottle pockets
Reinforced knees, seat, shoulders and sleeves
Articulated arms
Napoleon style zippered pockets
Two insulated chest cargo pockets
Fully adjustable hood
D-ring mitt clips
Velcro adjustable cuff
We have all seen Millet’s amazing 8000M expedition boots and it’s time we explore their 8000M down suits too. Made with 800 RDS goose down, and ultra thermal protection Millet’s trilogy MPX down suit is built to endure harsh conditions and is a robust expedition suit. The reinforced knees and seat are built to withstand abrasion whilst the functional zip systems including a back opening and two-way zipper at the front allow it to be worn during the full length of your expedition. With large zippers and an adjustable hood, this suit is both helmet and oxygen mask compatible.
High protection for expeditions. Knees and buttocks reinforced
Delivered with storage pouch
Inner support waistband
Front fastening with two-way zip, with a large underplacket for thermal protection
Zipped drop seat system under wide insulated flap
Adjustable at the waist and cuffs
Capacious helmet hood, adjustable, oxygen mask-compatible
2 large interior pockets
4 big zipped pockets
Cargo pocket on thigh
Everest outfit - 8000M Khang-ri Summit suit
Born, made/tested in Nepal, the Everest outfit Khang-RI summit suit is another expedition suit that was worn by Everest ice fall doctors and route setters. Kami Rita Sherpa (26th Everest Summitier, pictured above) who lead the 2022 spring Everest/Lhotse expedition team to fix the rope can vouch for this made in Nepal suit. If they pro’s can vouch for it and have been tested rigorously then we surely can have our confidence on this suit.
Details are not mentioned on their website. Please contact Everest Outfit for any details.
Montane expedition suits rather come in a 2 piece system. Their expedition jacket and salopettes have been worn by climbers like Jon Gupta to the summit of Everest. Designed for use in the most extreme environments on earth, the Apex 8000 Down Jacket has been developed in conjunction with expedition leading mountaineers and tested in high altitudes of 8000M+. Filled with 500g of the highest quality water-resistant goose down within a box walled construction. With the additional water-resistance of PrimaLoft® insulation in key areas, there is no compromise to functionality or features on this piece of survival gear.
The expedition suits listed are some of the additional down suits we believe interested climbers should explore after all it all comes down to personal preferences once we know that these suits have been tested and worn by climbers during their expedition. Expedition suits are not updated every year like other clothing lines. What should matter is its performance at extremes and you can be confident in the 2021 and 2022 expedition down suits that we have listed in our blogpost. After utility and then it comes down to the brand you prefer, colors, styles, sustainability values, and reviews.
Conclusion
Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With adventure brands innovating and developing high-quality down suits you have more options now. We have listed (2021 and 2022) some of the most famous down suits out there in the market today. We cannot stress this enough quality (highest) matters. This is the last place on earth where you would not have adequate clothing gear. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes so you’ll need the best of the best which are listed above. Also, we highly recommend you read our 2021 mountaineering down suit blogpost. (Link)
Which mountaineering down suit will you buy for your upcoming extreme expedition? Please comment below :)
Suit up. Climb on.
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Mountain expeditions in Nepal during the autumn season - Namas Adventure
Barutnse expedition camp 1 6100M
Planning your next 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M mountain expeditions in Nepal during the Autumn season?
September - November (autumn in Nepal) is another best time to plan your Himalayan adventures. After the spring headlines of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu stories, autumn awaits to write new chapters and records in other Himalayan peaks.
p.s. - Everest or Lhotse expedition is not organized during the autumn season. Why do you ask? There is the financial side with almost no teams to cover up for Khumbu icefall doctors fees and the weather window is generally very short.
Manaslu 8163M (Late August - September) and Ama Dablam 6810M (October - November) attract the majority of the climbers but the way we see it there are other amazing peaks that can be climbed and explored. Here are our suggestions
7000M Expeditions
Baruntse Expedition 7129M
Remote, Raw, and Rugged. Semi-technical climb in nature, Baruntse peak is one of the 7000er mountains that is accessible to climb during autumn. The knife ridge to the summit is not for the faint-hearted. Perfect 7000M expedition that gives you a solid feel of proper mountaineering (classic and alpine style) and best of all there aren’t many climbers. No traffic and one we love taking upon.
Join us here during autumn climbs (October - November)
Himlung Himal final summit ridge
A classic 7000er climb in the Annapurna region. Remote, safer, accessible, and less technical with a high chance of summit success. Expect some long climbing days, particularly on summit day. A moderate amount of teams are attempting Himlung during the autumn season.
Join us for Himlung Himal 7126M expedition (September - October - November) every year.
Annapurna IV 7525M
ANNAPURNA IV 7525M
Breaking above the 7500M zone, Annapurna IV 7527M is the perfect mountaineering objective for climbers who do not want to avoid crowds/traffic to prepare for their Everest or other 8000M peak expeditions. Annapurna IV is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna II 7937M/26040FT on the western side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the eastern face. The climbing route has fewer objective dangers and is relatively a semi-technical climb.
Far away from the sight of Everest and if you want to have a feel of the classic mountaineering expedition and raw-pristine moments then the far west expedition to Putha Hiunchuli 7246m in Nepal surely won’t disappoint.
You are a pro-seasonal high altitude skier and want to up your shredding game? This peak provides you with a perfect line. We venture into Putha Hiunchuli every 2 to 3 years. Check out our next departure dates to Putha Hiunchuli on our page.
8000M Expeditions
Manaslu 8163M
Manaslu true summit 8163m
Manaslu, the mountain of spirit, is the most climbed 8000M+ mountain during the Autumn season. Now with the true summit finally becoming clear to all the climbers, the final 100M traverse to the summit does not get easier. Manaslu is also considered one of the easiest mountains at 8000M level.
We organize a Manaslu expedition every season, join our ever so small and fun-loving team, not to forget to the true summit.
Dhaulagiri 8167M
Approaching Dhaulagiri 8167M
Located in the central west of Nepal, Dhaulagiri 8167 M mountain is another 8000er expedition that is organized mostly during the autumn season. Dhaulagiri attracts a handful of climbers during the autumn season. This is the world’s lucky 7th highest mountain.
Check out 8000M expedition pages for upcoming Dhaulagiri expeditions.
Kanchenjunga 8586M
Kanchenjunga 8586M
Mount Kanchenjunga 8586M is the final 8000M on the eastern flanks of the Himalayan belt. It sits right on the border of Nepal and India (Sikkim). A handful of expeditions are organised every year and some summits have been recorded during autumn season too.
6000M Expeditions
Ama Dablam 6810M
After the Manaslu climb, almost 90% of the team is focused on the Ama Dablam. Be it to summit this peak or to strategize with next season’s Everest climb. Either way, expect a decent crowd of climbers at Ama Dablam.
Join us at Ama Dablam every autumn and possibly during early winter too. For the ones that can brave the cold.
Climbing the ridge to Cholatse camp 2
If you want to escape the gatherings of climbers at Ama Dablam and instead climb an equally challenging or may even be a tougher peak in the Khumbu region then Cholatse is a perfect mountain to climb. Do not underestimate this mountain because it does not boast higher but the climbing routes are second to none. Climbing on a long exposed knife-edge ridge and climbing ice headwalls are some amazing feats to take on at Cholatse.
Plenty of crux and not forget the ever visible Gokyo valley during your entire climbing period. Join us at Cholatse every year during the autumn season.
Note - With Everest/Lhotse expedition not operating during the autumn season, most of the certified guides (350 - 400) are not occupied and are raring to go and help climbers achieve their dream adventures in other mountain peaks.
Since autumn is another big season to achieve your dream climbs in Nepal, are you planning any of the above-mentioned mountaineering adventures? We organize, all-inclusive expeditions during the autumn season and would love to welcome you onboard our teams. Unlike others, we organize a team of max 8 small and a compact teams, which enables us to plan swiftly and have an intimate group during our expeditions.
Join us on our 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M expeditions during autumn in any given year. Let’s go on your dream adventures.
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Climbing your first 8000M mountain peak - Namas Adventure
Which 8000M Mountain peak should I first aim for?
Which is the easiest, accessible, and safest 8000M peak to climb first?
What should my first ideal 8000M peak climb be?
Which 8000M should be my first challenge?
When considering an 8000M mountain peak expedition, it is important to have the right experience and preparation. Before attempting any 8000M peak, we recommend that climbers have completed at least two 6000M peak expeditions, such as Lobuche East 6119M, Island Peak 6189M, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua or Chulu West 6419M, as well as at least one expedition to a peak of 7000M or higher, such as Baruntse 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M, or Putha Hiunchuli 7246M. These expeditions will provide valuable experience and understanding of what it takes to be successful at high altitudes, as well as the physical and mental demands of long and challenging days in the mountains.
With that said, it is important to note that there are no easy or comfortable climbs at 8000M. However, when comparing the 14X8000M peaks, the expeditions listed below are considered entry-level and are generally considered to be less technical and safer options at this altitude
Manaslu 8163M
Manaslu 8163M, is the eighth highest mountain in the world and is considered an introductory 8000M mountain peak. This should be the choice for many climbers, who want to make this their first-ever expedition into 8000M. Granted this expedition sees many climbing teams during the autumn climbing season, this factor makes this expedition relatively safer logistically and with enough team support. There are fewer technical sections and fewer hazards. This has been the most preferred 8000M expedition ever since the Cho-Oyu expedition from the Chinese side has been uncertain and difficult dealing with Chinese authorities.
The lower section (between camp 1 and camp 2) has most of the objective danger and is also prone to avalanches. Make no mistake, all-mountain big or small is prone to these objective dangers. Climbing the true summit of Manaslu is another technical challenge. (Manaslu true summit blogpost link) The last 50M - 60M will have to be traversed on exposed slope sections and the summit can only fit 1-2 climbers at a time. You will need to sharpen your ice climbing and traversing climbing skills. But if you are comfortable with the fore summit then you need not worry about the final 50M - 60M technical climbing challenges on Manaslu.
Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.
This expedition is considered a must final crucial expedition for the “Road to Everest” expedition goal. Our team organizes Manaslu every year. Join us and let us help you step into 8000M safely and climb a true summit of Manaslu 8163M.
Cho-Oyu 8201M
Cho Oyu 8201M
Cho-Oyu 8201M, the 6th higher peak in the world is another safer mountain and gets its famous tag as the easiest 8000M peak. Located between Nepal and China, this 8000M peak lies 20km away from Mt.Everest. Where the difficulty lies in climbing this peak is complicated rules with Chinese authorities and uncertainties. New commercial routes from the Nepal side are begin tested (Gelje Sherpa team and Pioneer expedition team - 2022 Winter expedition) but the new route from the Nepal side is difficult and exposed. Only 14 people have climbed from Nepal’s side. Should the two team succeed with their expeditions, this will open doors to the Cho-Oyu expedition from Nepal’s side and a perfect alternative to climbing another 8000M peak from the Nepalese side.
Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.
Teams set up 3 higher camps with several rotations to strategize for the summit push. There are no real technical sections and the objective dangers are very few on the Chinese side of this peak. It is also one of the shorter 8000M expedition and base camp is even accessible by jeep. This makes it one of the most attractive expeditions for interested climbers and there have been well over 1000 ascents on this peak. On the Nepal side, the base camp is far, rugged, and longer compared to the Chinese side. This mountain is also a popular safer choice for high altitude skiers and snowboarders due to low objective risk and good snow conditions. Cho-Oyu 8201M, is mostly preferable to climb during the autumn season.
Our team is assessing situations with Nepal side climb and should the commercial route be tested and declared safer/accessible, we aim to plan the expedition from 2024 Autumn. Join us then
Are you planning your first-ever 8000M expedition? Want to test yourself in the death zone altitude before climbing higher to Mt. Everest or other tougher 8000M mountains? We hope the guidance and suggestion in this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of which 8000M to climb first. The right experience is a must and very important. Not only do inexperience and inadequate preparations hinder your chance of completing the expedition or endanger your life but also put the life of guide members and the team in danger too. Our team can help you prepare in the best way to gain the right experience to complete your dream of the first 8000M peak expedition.
Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼
Namas Adventure Team
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Mount Everest expedition. New route, Nepal South side - Namas Adventure
New Proposed Sundari route, Everest Expedition, Nepal.
Legendary French mountaineer, Marc Batard and his team of Nepalese and french climbers have discovered a new route for Everest Expedition. Batard wants to further observe and test this route on his 2022 Spring Everest Expedition (without supplement O2) to see if it is commercially feasible. This alternative new route avoids the most dangerous part of the Nepal side Everest expedition, climbing the Great Khumbu Icefall.
This new route can be started from the village of Gorakshep which is at 5100M and the climbing route falls beneath the Nuptse ridge. The climb starts at an adjacent peak that was unnamed. Batard wanted to pay his homage to his former Sherpa team (Sundari Sherpa), named the peak Sundari Peak 5880M and the route Sundari route. Sundari Sherpa was part of his Everest expedition (1988) member who inspired him to climb Everest and break the speed record of the first ascent in less than 24hrs.
The route then leads to Camp 1 at 6065M, which is above Khumbu Icefall. Batard came up with this new route to find a safer alternative. Avoid the dangers of Khumbu Icefall which is nerve-racking even for experienced climbers. Batard team has fixed new 700M routes with 1000M ropes and 10mm screw blots. The idea is to have via-Ferrata with fixed metal railings, so that Sherpas with a heavy load can use it making it much-much safer compared to the dangerous Khumbu icefall. The team is aiming to fix the remaining 400M to Camp 2 (6400M).
What are your thoughts on this new proposed route which seems much safer, not just for the clients but to Sherpa members too? Please comment below.
We think this is a great alternative and this could even open a possibility for the Autumn Everest expedition. Historically Autumn season is avoided by expedition companies to avoid the dangers of avalanches that come falling from the hanging serac above the icefall.
Even if the Autumn season is not possible, this will give Sherpa’s working in Everest/Lhotse expedition an extra layer of safety when working in the mountains. We wish Batard and his team very best wishes and a safe summit during their 2022 (without supplement O2) expeditions.
God's speed and success. Live Your Story.
Namas Adventure team
Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure
For years if not decades climbers have been debating about reaching the true summit(4) of Manaslu and where it actually is. Finally this year the drone shot captured by Jackson Groves during his Manaslu expedition made it clear as daylight to the world. His images clear the argument once and for all. Jackson himself mentions in his blog (Journeyera) that he stopped short at the fore summit and did not proceed to the main summit.
Mingma G seen climbing to the main summit. Majority of climbers previously stopped at the fore summit, claiming Manaslu 8163M Summit.
Mingma G, who set up the fix-rope at the pinnacle snow point of the summit (true summit) along with the Himalayan database claimed that this was only achieved only after 45 years (1976). Others argue otherwise but now we can understand why reaching the true summit which is 20m-25m away from the fore summit (Shelf 2) is such a dangerous challenge to overcome at 8100M+ level.
The last section is very technical and exposed which has to be climbed down a few feet, traversed through steep, snow, and rocky slopes with more than a hundred-meter drop, and is clearly not for any inexperienced climbers.
Manaslu 8163M expedition is considered an introductory 8000M+ expedition to see how non-seasoned climbers handle themselves climbing at the death zone but the last section from the fore summit to the true summit is not for the inexperienced climbers. For one the climb is a very dangerous and technical climb this final section which won’t be able to handle any sort of traffic jams and any form of rescue in between is near to impossible. Only very experienced seasoned climbers who want to stamp their name on the elitist group whose aim to hold records or gather as many summits are advised or if you have several previous climbing experiences (not just 2 or 3) then going up to the real summit is advised. Also, bearing in mind now that the true summit is clear to many, most climbers will be attempting the pinnacle point hence traffic might become an issue in such a small section.
Prior to this year (Autumn 2021), Manaslu 8163M summit has been claimed by many but it turns out only a handful of climbers had been to the main summit. The Tolerance zone concept proposed by Stefan Nestler is particularly interesting. His concept suggests two types of summiteers -
The general summit group: Many who have claimed to be at the summit have gone back home believing that they have been to the true summit. This will definitely come as an annoyance to many but the majority of the climbers who do not care about being in the absolute elite list won’t be back to climb Manaslu just to climb the few last meters.
The elitist summit group: Are the absolutes who make no compromises even to the last stone or snow point at the very top to claim the true summit. These climbers will have to come back to update their summit records.
Moving forward climbers who want to climb Manaslu as an introductory 8000M expedition will have to think really hard and make a sensible decision before venturing further away from the fore summit to the true summit. For the ones who want to be on the elite table list, the debate has ended and the true summit is clear. Operators too will have to be clear about the true summit and fore summit plans.
So, as the debate ends, are you planning to climb Manaslu 8163M in near future? Namas Adventure/Expedition team will be planning our expedition strategy to the true summit. However, to the non-seasoned climbers, the option of climbing the fore summit is still possible with our team.
See you in the mountains.
Go. Live Your Story.