You have signed up (or want to signup) for your next big mountaineering project. So where do you begin? You know you need to be fit and strong to be able to successfully complete your mountaineering goal. So, what specific training do I need to undertake? Climbing mountains is unique and different compared to other outdoor adventure activities. It combines the athleticism of a triathlete and the dedication of a warrior in the most dangerous terrain on the planet. It’s an uphill pursuit demanding strong legs, cardiovascular fitness, and the technical ability to climb fast and safe over rock, ice, and snow. Mountaineering is more than a sport – transcending mere athletics into an unpredictable competition where “losing” might prove fatal. It’s a tall order to train for all the above, especially when you have to work full-time and have family and life responsibilities. First and fore most you will want to train like an athlete mindset and have a structured training plan and routines specific to your climbing goal. You can get creative with your patterns with in the training structure.

Training is the most important vehicle for preparations. The goal of your training is to get physically and mentally prepared to successfully complete your expedition. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout our expedition. Mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. As you will be climbing in high altitudes, both your cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at different levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain. The greater your level of fitness, the more efficiently you can acclimate to altitude. Fit climbers spend less energy on certain tasks, leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatisation.

When Training for mountaineering you should particularly focus on two key areas of endurance building, developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart and lungs) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, agility and balance), following specific goals and timeline.

Go Simply, train smart, climb well and enjoy for experience. Also remember continuity, gradualness and modulation are very important.

Build a Aerobic base for Endurance

Endurance fitness is considered the most important fitness for all mountaineers. Your expedition and body will demand various level of intensity all day through out. Excellent cardiovascular and motor fitness is very necessary. One of the fundamental concept of training for any sport is that even (climbing) specific training must come on top of a very well-established base of conditioning. Cardiovascular Endurance is the ability of the heart and lungs to supply oxygen-rich blood to the working muscle tissues and the ability of the muscles to use oxygen to produce energy for movement. To get the most from your cardiovascular workouts, the ACSM suggests that you exercise three to five times a week at 60 to 75 percent of your maximum heart rate. Sessions should be at least 30 minutes to 2 - 3 hours long, and you should choose exercises that use large muscle groups in a rhythmical fashion, such as cycling, running, swimming or rowing.

RUN - Running is an efficient training tool. It could be running in urban areas or trail running, both are equally beneficial. You will particularly want to train in Zone 2 mostly and Zone 3 more towards specific training periods.

HIKE – Hike long distances or uphill with a pack (10% Body weight) on Zone 1. Once again, the intensity and duration are up to you, or your trainer. If also honing skills by rock climbing, use long approaches to double up.

CYCLING AND BACKCOUNTRY SKIING – Good activities to build into your program if you have access to the tools and the terrain. Indoor Options – Many standard fitness gyms offer Stairmasters, treadmills, and floor space to do intervals.

Our recommendations

6000M+ peaks

Time: 4 months 6000 M Peaks

Monthly: 150K- 200K ( Zone 1 & 2 during base training period) (Zone 2 and 3 Specific training period)

Base training example (Week 1 - 10)

Monday - 10K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Tuesday - Morning (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout) + Evening 5K (Zone 1-2) Running

Wednesday - 10K Run (Zone 1-2) + 10 min stretch

Thursday - Morning 5K (Zone 1-2) + Evening (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout)

Friday - 5K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Saturday - 15K Running (Zone 1-2)

Sunday - Rest Recover

Specific training example ( Week 11 - 14)

Monday - 10K (Zone 3) + 1 - 2 hours of Muscular endurance indoor climb

Tuesday - AM 10K (Zone 1-2) + Evening (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout)

Wednesday - 1500M elevation gain with 20% of your body weight weight. ( Could be hill climb near to you home or find staircase) + 10K Run (Zone 3)

Thursday - Am 5K recover easy run + PM 1-2 hours of gym climb for muscular endurance

Friday - Easy Run 10K + Off

Saturday - 1500M elevation gain with 20% of your body weight weight. ( Could be hill climb near to you home or find staircase) +5 K Run (Zone 1-2)

Sunday - Rest and recover

Tapering ( Week 15 - 16)

After 14 weeks of training, in these last two weeks before your trip you want to feel confident, healthy and strong physically and mentally. Excitement kicks in so and do not want to be over worked or fatigued when you come towards the last week just before your trip. Being patient and disciplined in key and in these last two week you want to reduce the load on your training but still maintain your overall fitness.

Monday - 10K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Tuesday - Morning (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout) + Evening 5K (Zone 1-2) Running

Wednesday - 5K Run (Zone 1-2) + 10 min stretch

Thursday - Morning 5K (Zone 1-2) + Evening (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout)

Friday - 5K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Saturday - 10K Running (Zone 1-2)

Sunday - Rest Recover

7000M - 8000M peaks

Time: 6 months 200K - 250K Per month

Monthly: 200K - 250K ( Zone 1 & 2 during base training period) (Zone 2 and 3 Specific training period)

Base training example (Week 1 - 18)

Monday - 10K (Zone 1-2) Run + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Tuesday - AM (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout) + Evening 5K (Zone 1-2) Running

Wednesday - 15K Run (Zone 1-2) + 10 min stretch

Thursday - AM 5K (Zone 1-2) + Evening (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout)

Friday - 10K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Saturday - 20K Running (Zone 1-2)

Sunday - Rest Recover

Specific training example ( Week 19 - 22)

Monday - 10K (Zone 2-3) + 1 - 2 hours of Muscular endurance indoor climb

Tuesday - AM 10-15K (Zone 1-2) + Evening (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout)

Wednesday - 1500M elevation gain with 20% of your body weight weight. (Could be hill climb near to you home or find staircase) + 10K Run (Zone 3)

Thursday - Am 5K recover easy run + PM 1-2 hours of gym climb for muscular endurance

Friday - Easy Run 15-20K (Zone 1-2)

Saturday - 1500M elevation gain with 20% of your body weight weight. (Could be hill climb near to you home or find staircase) +5 K Run (Zone 1-2)

Sunday - Rest and recover

Tapering ( Week 23 - 24)

Monday - 10K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Tuesday - Morning (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout) + Evening 5K (Zone 1-2) Running

Wednesday - 5K Run (Zone 1-2) + 10 min stretch

Thursday - Morning 5K (Zone 1-2) + Evening (30 min Core work out + 30 Min strength workout)

Friday - 5K (Zone 1-2) Running + 10/20 Min Yoga/stretch

Saturday - 10K Running (Zone 1-2)

Sunday - Rest Recover

MOTOR FITNESS

A motor skill is associated with muscle activity. You carry out motor skills when your brain, nervous system and muscles work in concert to move parts of your body in large or small manoeuvres. Motor skills improve with practice and all six components determine your level of athletic ability. These are all important factors in your ability to climb smoothly and efficiently on mountainous terrain.

INTERVAL TRAINING

Interval training is built upon alternating short, high-intensity bursts of speed with slower, recovery phases throughout a single workout.The technique of interval training calls for including surges in activity while maintaining an elevated heart rate. Interval training, used over a long period of time, can increase the heart’s capacity for pumping blood through the body.

RECOMMENDATIONS

Warm up for 15 minutes.
Run, bike, or row for 8-10 seconds at a nearly all-out effort. Take 3 minutes active recovery and repeat 5 or 6 more times.
Finish with a 10-minute cool down.

Strength and Core strengthening

In addition to leg strength, mountaineering requires a strong core (back and stomach) as heavy pack weights add a new dimension to climbing. Strength training principles are essentially the same for upper and lower bodies. Strength training can involve body weight exercises as well as routines using traditional weights.

RECOMMENDATIONS

2 X Week (Throughout your training period)

Strength: Box step ups with 10% - 15% body weights, Squats, lunges, and leg presses, Push-ups, pull-ups, dips.

Core strength: Scott’s killer core routine,

Specific training

Pre acclimatise altitude trek.

Recovery

Diet

other things to do

10 min Yoga everyday

When you near your expedition date, begin making your workouts more mountaineering specific with hikes and climbs and occasional interval sessions aimed at broadening your range of comfort at various effort levels. Make sure you stretch after every long interval trainings. Stretching helps reduce muscular tension and increases flexibility.

Preparing yourself by committing to weekly training routines is very important. Expedition in the mountains/Himalayas requires a lot of physical, mental and psychological toughness this nature of activity demands athlete level fitness. Its is about putting your self in the uncomfortable zone and pushing your self to higher limits to see what you as a person can achieve. Expedition into the mountains of any type should not be underestimated. The journey is a challenge in itself. It will push you out of your comfort zone and you will need to dig deeper mentally and physically. It is worth every effort and this will be your life’s greatest adventure. On a plus side it will motivate you to lead a healthy and inspiring life.

Now you know how you have to train for mountain expeditions. Get yourself out there, enjoy your training and stay fit and together with Namas Adventure’s team and like minded adventurers, let’s take on your expeditions into Mera Peak, Island Peak, Aconcagua, Amadablam or other higher mountains. Happy Adventure.

Article references

Live strong: https://www.livestrong.com/article/534286-six-components-of-fitness-related-to-motor-skills/
Very well fit: https://www.verywellfit.com/interval-training-workouts-3120774
Shape.com: https://www.shape.com/fitness/workouts/interval-training-short-workouts-really-pay

Here is a video of Chad Kellogg training for Everest.

BIG EXPEDITIONS INVOLVE JETLAG, dirty bus rides, long treks, and a grueling schedule played out over many weeks. The air will be thin and you’ll be lugging packs, post-holing, and sleeping in cramped spaces. You’ll be too hot and too cold, dehydrated, and hypoxic. Arriving at the mountain, just starting actual climbing demands a six-hour approach through steep talus and deep snow, lugging a monstrous load. How to prepare?

Climbing mountains is unique in the world of outdoor activities. It combines the athleticism of a triathlete and the dedication of a warrior in the most dangerous terrain on the planet. It’s an uphill pursuit demanding strong legs, cardiovascular fitness, and the technical ability to climb fast and safe over rock, ice, and snow. Mountaineering is more than a sport – transcending mere athletics into an unpredictable competition where “losing” might prove fatal. It’s a tall order to train for all the above, especially when you have to work full-time and have family and life responsibilities. However, dedicated, consistent training can get you where you want to be, no matter what else you have on your plate. Inclement weather, avalanches, collapsing seracs, and thin air can’t be controlled, but you can control how much preparation you do in the form of hard work and smart training.

ENDURANCE

Any successful expedition climber stands on a bedrock of endurance. Endurance is more than being able to run a marathon (though that wouldn’t hurt). It requires durable, all-around fitness. Mental and physical attributes intertwine with technical skills in what can unfold into a life-and-death drama. Expedition travel, approach, and time on the mountain play out over weeks or months and demand completion of critical tasks under duress. Start any big expedition training program by building cardiovascular fitness. This is the ability of the heart and lungs to supply oxygen-rich blood to the working muscle tissues, and the ability of the muscles to use oxygen to produce energy for movement. In other words, it’s the ability to keep going up for longer periods of time. Cardio training taps aerobic and anaerobic systems.

Part 1 – Build A Base

Start out by creating a base of fitness. You need to train in order to train, if that makes sense. Depending on your level of fitness, spend 4 to 6 weeks doing cardio at least three days per week. The following exercises are the perfect place to start.

RUN – Running is an efficient training tool. Do at least 30 minutes per session, several times per week. Added length and frequency will be based on your training plan.

HIKE – Hike long distances or uphill with a pack. Once again, the intensity and duration are up to you, or your trainer. If also honing skills by rock climbing, use long approaches to double up.

Part 2 – Increase Resistance and Duration and Add Relevant Movement

If satisfied with your base fitness, lengthen the duration of exercise, do resistance exercises, and add interval training.

INTERVAL TRAINING

Complete brief (30-second) sprints throughout a longer run.
Do 30-minute high intensity rides on your bike.
20-minute treadmill sessions, alternating 30-second sprints with 30-second jogging intervals.
Hike uphill with 30-second runs between 30-second slow-hike intervals. You can add a pack with weight to increase resistance.

RESISTANCE TRAINING

Weightlifting, like bench-press, military press, and bicep curls.
Bodyweight exercises like push-ups, chin-ups, and one-leg pistol squats.
Core training like crunches, sit-ups, roll-outs, and planks.

RELEVANT MOVEMENT: MOTOR FITNESS

Motor fitness allows you to do your training in the context of real-life movement, which translates directly to carrying a heavy pack on uneven terrain, for hours at a time, day after day. These exercises can be integrated after building your base.

Trail run on uneven terrain.
Yoga—a good idea to do consistently.
Balance exercises, can do weightlifting and core exercises on a balance ball, or attempt standing exercises on a single leg.
Tai chi—as with yoga, a good thing to do consistently if preferred.
Slacklining.

Part 3 – Add Technical Skills

Training up your technical skills should be the fun part of your program. This phase might last a month or more. Mountains are composed of rock, ice, and snow, and before planning any expedition, you should have minimal proficiency in climbing all three. Keep maintaining your base aerobic and anaerobic fitness, but make sure you’re adding in technical climbing as well.

Gym – Work on basic strength for the genre of climbing you anticipate. Indoors is also a good place to practice rope skills, find clinics, and seek professional guidance.

Rock/Ice Climbing – If you live near crags, make climbing a regular part of your week. Do long approaches (or run/bike to the crag) to mimic longer days. Enchain routes for more technical climbing. Practice relevant rope systems.

Travel – Visit best-in-class venues to stay motivated and keep your skills fresh. A nice trip is a reward for your hard work but keep on the program by interspersing the climbing with a few runs.

Mimic what you intend to climb. If your objective involves technical ice, then by all means put your time in winter climbing. If you plan to climb Trango Tower, then a trip up El Cap is a good idea. If you are looking at Everest, then become proficient in the snow and ascending fixed ropes.

TRAINING PROGRAM

Consistency is key. There are many ways to train, but what that looks like is dependent on time, necessity, and preference.

Structure Your Program

Even if you are climbing four days a week, you’ll need to add an aerobic component. If completely deskbound, a very focused weekly schedule is efficient. Use weekends to your advantage. Personal trainers will provide a program, schedule, and feedback tailored to your needs. They also provide a big motivator—accountability through consultation and guidance. Most of us fall in between these extremes of completely deskbound and active all day, so tailor your training program to the realities of daily life. You can take the self-starter approach or go all-in for a trainer. Regardless, seeking expert advice (like this article!) is vital.

BUILD YOUR OWN

For some, the DIY approach works. Do your research on the web, get a mountaineering training book, and ask the experts. If you have the lifestyle, you can take an unstructured approach—long days, mixed with high frequency and high volume activities—usually climbing, backcountry skiing, and climbing local peaks. One famous alpinist prior to a big climb spent the summer building log fences—alone and by hand—between the odd day of rock climbing.

PROFESSIONAL TRAINERS

Most of us are too busy to self-prescribe a regimen and fewer yet can maintain a self-imposed schedule. We all need help. For those of us who need a lot of help and have the resources, a personal trainer is a perfect way to get the most out of your limited time. Any trainer will stress rest, solid sleep, and a nutritious diet to supports your training efforts. To locate training resources, Google “Mountaineering Training” and you’ll see numerous options.

Mental Training

Chances are if you’ve stuck with your training program over a couple of months, you’ll have had to find some internal strength and mental reserves you might not have known were there. Every time you get up and go train your body, you’re training your mind as well, so whatever training you do is pulling double duty. However, there’s an extra step you can take to train your brain, and that’s visualization. Top athletes in all sports use this process to succeed in their respective endeavors, and expedition climbers can do the same thing. Take time every day to sit and think about what the trip will be like. Do it over your morning coffee or before you go to sleep at night, but picture yourself on the mountain. Picture yourself in the midst of a long day, still a few hundred feet from the summit, tired, hungry, scared, and unsure. How will you react? See yourself forging ahead, still moving toward the top, really going after your goal even when you feel like quitting. Imagine the 40mph winds, the blowing snow, and the frustration of post-holing to your waist yet again. The more you can face these realities beforehand, the better you’ll deal when you’re in them.