Mountain expeditions in Nepal during the autumn season - Namas Adventure
Barutnse expedition camp 1 6100M
Planning your next 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M mountain expeditions in Nepal during the Autumn season?
September - November (autumn in Nepal) is another best time to plan your Himalayan adventures. After the spring headlines of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu stories, autumn awaits to write new chapters and records in other Himalayan peaks.
p.s. - Everest or Lhotse expedition is not organized during the autumn season. Why do you ask? There is the financial side with almost no teams to cover up for Khumbu icefall doctors fees and the weather window is generally very short.
Manaslu 8163M (Late August - September) and Ama Dablam 6810M (October - November) attract the majority of the climbers but the way we see it there are other amazing peaks that can be climbed and explored. Here are our suggestions
7000M Expeditions
Baruntse Expedition 7129M
Remote, Raw, and Rugged. Semi-technical climb in nature, Baruntse peak is one of the 7000er mountains that is accessible to climb during autumn. The knife ridge to the summit is not for the faint-hearted. Perfect 7000M expedition that gives you a solid feel of proper mountaineering (classic and alpine style) and best of all there aren’t many climbers. No traffic and one we love taking upon.
Join us here during autumn climbs (October - November)
Himlung Himal final summit ridge
A classic 7000er climb in the Annapurna region. Remote, safer, accessible, and less technical with a high chance of summit success. Expect some long climbing days, particularly on summit day. A moderate amount of teams are attempting Himlung during the autumn season.
Join us for Himlung Himal 7126M expedition (September - October - November) every year.
Annapurna IV 7525M
ANNAPURNA IV 7525M
Breaking above the 7500M zone, Annapurna IV 7527M is the perfect mountaineering objective for climbers who do not want to avoid crowds/traffic to prepare for their Everest or other 8000M peak expeditions. Annapurna IV is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna II 7937M/26040FT on the western side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the eastern face. The climbing route has fewer objective dangers and is relatively a semi-technical climb.
Far away from the sight of Everest and if you want to have a feel of the classic mountaineering expedition and raw-pristine moments then the far west expedition to Putha Hiunchuli 7246m in Nepal surely won’t disappoint.
You are a pro-seasonal high altitude skier and want to up your shredding game? This peak provides you with a perfect line. We venture into Putha Hiunchuli every 2 to 3 years. Check out our next departure dates to Putha Hiunchuli on our page.
8000M Expeditions
Manaslu 8163M
Manaslu true summit 8163m
Manaslu, the mountain of spirit, is the most climbed 8000M+ mountain during the Autumn season. Now with the true summit finally becoming clear to all the climbers, the final 100M traverse to the summit does not get easier. Manaslu is also considered one of the easiest mountains at 8000M level.
We organize a Manaslu expedition every season, join our ever so small and fun-loving team, not to forget to the true summit.
Dhaulagiri 8167M
Approaching Dhaulagiri 8167M
Located in the central west of Nepal, Dhaulagiri 8167 M mountain is another 8000er expedition that is organized mostly during the autumn season. Dhaulagiri attracts a handful of climbers during the autumn season. This is the world’s lucky 7th highest mountain.
Check out 8000M expedition pages for upcoming Dhaulagiri expeditions.
Kanchenjunga 8586M
Kanchenjunga 8586M
Mount Kanchenjunga 8586M is the final 8000M on the eastern flanks of the Himalayan belt. It sits right on the border of Nepal and India (Sikkim). A handful of expeditions are organised every year and some summits have been recorded during autumn season too.
6000M Expeditions
Ama Dablam 6810M
After the Manaslu climb, almost 90% of the team is focused on the Ama Dablam. Be it to summit this peak or to strategize with next season’s Everest climb. Either way, expect a decent crowd of climbers at Ama Dablam.
Join us at Ama Dablam every autumn and possibly during early winter too. For the ones that can brave the cold.
Climbing the ridge to Cholatse camp 2
If you want to escape the gatherings of climbers at Ama Dablam and instead climb an equally challenging or may even be a tougher peak in the Khumbu region then Cholatse is a perfect mountain to climb. Do not underestimate this mountain because it does not boast higher but the climbing routes are second to none. Climbing on a long exposed knife-edge ridge and climbing ice headwalls are some amazing feats to take on at Cholatse.
Plenty of crux and not forget the ever visible Gokyo valley during your entire climbing period. Join us at Cholatse every year during the autumn season.
Note - With Everest/Lhotse expedition not operating during the autumn season, most of the certified guides (350 - 400) are not occupied and are raring to go and help climbers achieve their dream adventures in other mountain peaks.
Since autumn is another big season to achieve your dream climbs in Nepal, are you planning any of the above-mentioned mountaineering adventures? We organize, all-inclusive expeditions during the autumn season and would love to welcome you onboard our teams. Unlike others, we organize a team of max 8 small and a compact teams, which enables us to plan swiftly and have an intimate group during our expeditions.
Join us on our 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M expeditions during autumn in any given year. Let’s go on your dream adventures.
Live Your Story
Visual Journey of Ama Dablam Expedition - Namas Adventure
Ama Dablam 6810M
VISUAL JOURNEY OF AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION
Ama Dablam's expedition is one of the most thrilling climbs in the Khumbu region. Ama Dablam's view dominates the view during Everest trekking routes. Not only is the climb beautiful and challenging but also physically/mentally demanding. Land in the buzzing historic city of Kathmandu following then to the famous Lukla airport your expedition begins. Your trek follows through the same trail of the iconic Everest base camp trek. The route then splits from the Pangboche village (4529M) to the Ama Dablam base camp 4529M and into the mountain.
Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of Ama Dablam 6810M.
Lukla Airport
Namche Bazaar
Everest trail and Ama Dablam on the right, Everest/Lhotse on the right background
Trek via the beautiful Gokyo lake 4900M
Dingboche. Island Peak far-left background and Ama Dablam on the right.
Island Peak 6189M. Acclimatization training peak.
Island Peak (Imja-Tse) is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine/fitness PD/2. Our team utilizes Island Peak 6189M or Lobuche East 6119M for training/acclimatization peak before climbing Ama Dablam. The climb in these peaks is an accomplishment on its own and an experience to climb another 6000M peak in the Khumbu region.
Island Peak, Ridge traverse leading to Summit 6189M
Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M
This will be climbers home for 12-14 days. This will be a full fledge camp with kitchen/dining tent, resting camp where the rest of the crew will be there to support the expeditions.
Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M
Camp 1 (5800M)
The route to camp 1 is mostly traversing on rocky boulders, a somewhat loose and exposed ridge that is mostly dry during the autumn season and mixed with ice and snow during the spring season. Camp 1, can accommodate about 10 - 12 tents, which are set on the slopes of the rocky boulders and overcrowding can be an issue when all the teams are planning their final summit bid at the same time. The journey from base camp to camp 1 takes about 5 - 6 hours.
Camp 2, 6200M “Yellow Tower”
The duration from camp 1 to camp 2 takes about 4-5 hours. As soon as climbers start off their journey from camp 1 the climb begins through clipping on a fixed-line.
The route is on the steep ridge, exposed on both sides. The routes on the way to camp 2 are stable. After traversing on the boulders and snow the final challenge for the day arrives at the yellow tower. The daunting “Yellow tower” is a straight 80 - 90 degrees vertical wall. Climbing with all the loads can be quite a challenge. So climbers need to be on their game on this part of the climb. Yellow tower climb can be graded at 6a rock climbing grade.
Camp 2 can only house about 7 to 8 tents so during the busy season it is hard to find the ideal spot and when overcrowded other makeshift camps have to be set up on the edges. This camp is not for the faint-hearted climbers but views from camp 2 are just out of this world.
Climbing the Mushroom ridge to Camp 3 (Situational)
The mushroom ridge traverse is one of the most challenging parts of climbing up to camp 3 and when descending down after summit bid. Rock falls can occur if climbers are ahead and climbers will have to traverse through a couloir on thier way to camp 3. This is the final technical section before reaching camp 3 or the summit.
Route to Ama Dablam Camp 3 (6400M)
Camp 3 depends a lot on the condition of snow and ice in the mountain. (Most likely to be set up during spring season than autumn.) The route goes from the back of the tower. Very exposed section and again depending on the season climbers will have to traverse on ice or granite slabs. Rockfalls can occur when there are lots of other climbing teams ahead. Some have even reported rocks the size of a football (soccer). The climb up is 70-80 degrees vertical and upon traversing climbers will reach the uncompromising mushroom ridge.
Lots of new and old fixed ropes can be found on this section. When climbing in the dark make sure to clip onto the right fixed line. Traversing through another super steep couloir on the ridge and steadily heading up climbers will arrive at camp 3 area. By this point, you will already have climbed for 5 hours. Nowadays, most teams do not stop at camp 3 and head straight to the summit. Arriving just beneath the pyramid the summit lies above the Dablam slopes.
Summit 6810M
Ama Dablam Summit 6810M
Summit of Ama Dablam is a broad plateau. An amazing feat to undertake and the achievement of a lifetime. On a clear day Mt. Everest, Lhotse Shar, Baruntse, Makalu, Cholatse, Taboche, and surrounding Himalayan peaks are visible.
AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION
Are you planning the Ama Dablam expedition as your next big mountaineering adventure? We have departures every year (spring/autumn). For more information on our Ama Dablam expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com