Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy - Namas Adventure
Everest Base Camp - Expedition moments
The Everest, as in the mountaineering, is the greatest goal of climbing adventures. As a mountaineering challenge, it has attracted people to come and explore this breathtaking Himalayan mountain. The most desirable achievement accomplishing here is to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest 8848M.
There is a system that every Everest climber should follow to increase the likelihood of success. It’s based on experience, planning and skill but there are other factors too such as clear weather window, sheer persistence and training. Our expert team of Everest expedition strategists take all the factors involved and build a plan that ensures your dream becomes a reality, not just once but time and time again. Everest results from the combination of a great strategy and a system. If you decide to join an Everest expedition, you will be dealt with professional guides who will do everything they can to ensure you reach the summit. We give you a structured game plan to assure that you’ll get to base camp and one day, to the summit of Mount Everest.
Everest Base Camp 5346M
We take a slow trek through the world's iconic Everest base camp trek, acclimatising and getting the perspective of the local region. Our first goal will be to summit Lobuche east as our acclimatisation peak. After that our team heads towards our final camp to settle in Everest base camp.
If you want to invite your family or friends to join you until Everest Base camp or Lobuche East Peak climb (Beginner/Intermediate) then you can find more information on the link below or please mail us to make those arrangements.
For more information on Everest Base Camp (Click here)
Lobuche East 6119M climb for training and acclimatisation
We use Lobuche East peak as our acclimatisation and training peak. Mount Lobuche East 6119M is another popular 6,000M climbing peak in Nepal. This peak will provide us a perfect starting point to refresh our skills, climb a 6000M+ peak to get our body acclimated to high altitude, and enjoy the climb with our fellow expedition members. As this will be the group’s first climb together, this will give our guides a better understanding of where each climber are in terms of confidence, fitness and skills.
We will be using base camp and high camp before we summit Lobuche East mountain and head back to base camp and rest for a night there before we move towards Everest BC.
Everest Base Camp 5346M
Preparation will have already begun even before the arrival of climbers at the base camp. Our base camp manager and the team will have already set up our individual camps, storage camps, comms-media stations, toilet-showers, kitchen-dining tents, and Namas base camp HQ for all other briefing purposes.
Puja Ceremony
2024 Namas Everest expedition team at base camp after puja ceremony
All of our expeditions only begin after a Puja ceremony. Where a dedicated Lama Guru (head Monk) will conduct the ceremony. He will recite the prayers to The Mountain gods asking for well-being, safety, safe passage and a successful expedition. All climbers will be requested to take part in the ceremony as this is very important for the guides and your climbing gears will also be blessed during the puja.
Training at Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall. (Ladders, fixed lines training) 5486M / 17998ft
Training at Khumbu ice fall
After settling at base camp, this is where all the climbing team will reside for the next 40+ days. Climbing ladders to cross the great Khumbu icefall is the first real objective/technical challenge when climbing Everest. So, we focus a large portion of our training on getting used to crossing these ladders. Another part of our training will be climbing on the glaciers which are near to our base camp. Here we will further refine our skills by climbing vertical ice walls using fixed ropes and ice axe. We do our best to mimic the environment in the icefall and train walking on the step ladder step by step. By the time we start our way to climb Khumbu icefall to climb up to camp 1, all climbers will have a good understanding of crossing the ladders and will also be guided personally in real-time.
How many rotations: Each time we go from base camp to Camp 1 we will have to cross Khumbu ice fall.
When will climbers sleep here: No, we do not sleep here.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 1 Everest Expedition
Camp 1 is will be setup once Khumbu Icefall challenge is crossed. The camp is setup below the Nuptse in an icy and snowy surface. The route gets even from here onwards up to camp 2. This will be the first area where climbers will have to share tents and accommodate in an alpine environment.
How many rotations: 2 rotations
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly.
Camp 2 (6400M/20997ft)
Hike from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a fairly even one out of all the climb during the entire expedition. The route is a pass sitting right between Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse face right in front when climbers hike.
How many rotations: 2 rotation
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and when descending back from the summit.
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M / 23622ft+)
Camp 3 sits at a steep section of Lhotse's face. This climb and will be one of the most strenuous uphill climbs using fixed-line ropes from camp 2 to camp 3. Camps here are one of the most dangerous ones as they are set up in small ledges/pockets where it is suitable. We ask all our climbers to make sure their safety ropes are tied onto the main safety ropes as there have been many falls and incidents, particularly during nighttime.
How many rotations: 2 rotation
When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and possibly when descending back from the summit if they are too tired to make it to camp 2.
South Col (Camp 4) (7906M / 25938ft)
This will the final camp before heading to the summit. The camp sits at 7906M just 100M below the Death Zone area. Climbers will be using oxygen bottles when they are in their tents as the air is very thin here. From the South Col to the summit it is about 1.7-1.9 miles and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. We will begin our summit bid just before midnight with a steep climb up the Southside of Everest. Upon reaching the Balcony at 27,500 feet, climbers turn West up the ridge to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step onto the Summit Ridge, and then to the summit.
How many rotations: None
When will climbers sleep here?: 1 night
Summit of Everest (8848.86M / 29031.69 ft)
Hillary ridge - Everest expedition
Our aim will be to stand at the summit around 7 - 10 am in morning. The climb to the summit will be one of the hardest and toughest part of the entire expedition. As we leave the south col, first we will have to climb a steep hill about 30-40 degrees to the balcony of the south side of Everest. From there with the support of fixed-line rope we jummar and ascend climbing on the southeast ridge to the south summit. Here we rest and replace our new O2 cylinder and after regaining our energy, climb to cornice traverse, then to Hillary's step, and finally reach the summit or roof of the world, Everest. For most climbers, once they climb the Hillary step it will roughly take 30min to reach the summit of Everest.
Once on the summit, we rejoice our moment, celebrate take pictures and soak it all in before we gather our moment and get ready to head back down to our camps. The duration of your summit depends upon how long the good weather window will remain open. Remember on any mountain climb the summit is only halfway done. Heading down is another dangerous part there have been many incidents. We slowly make our way through the same route to South Col camp with our aim to stop at Camp 2. The entire climb will be about 16 - 20 hours depending on the fitness level of climbers.
Are planning to climb and summit to the roof of the World one day? We run expedition to Everest every year (2023) taking all your climbing personal needs into accounts as well as implementing responsible and sustainable strategy in our expedition strategy. Our team is here to assist you in making your dream of climbing Everest being safe with tons of fun and being responsible & sustainable during our expeditions. Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to inquire.
Live Your Dream. Live Your Story
Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition
Everest Expedition 8848M
Note - Mt. Everest is officially a little higher. 8848.86M / 29,031.69FT (2020 new measurement)
1. When is the best time to climb Mt. Everest?
Spring (April-May) is the best time to climb Everest. All major commercial expeditions are organised during spring.
2. How much does Mt. Everest expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With our team, Namas Adventure team, your Everest expedition costs (website - click here). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. 🚁 Helicopter services to Lukla and rest day rotations BC - Namche Bazaar - BC and return to Lukla after your summit. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture, and having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holidays and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
🚁 Shared helicotper Kathmandu to Lukla. BC to Kathmandu and to Kathmandu.
🚁 to Namche Bazzar for 3-4 days and fly back to BC
✈️ Kathmandu or Ramechap - Lukla - Kathmandu or Ramechap (for members without helicopter option)
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff).Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu - Lukla. Base Camp - Namche Bazaar - BC. Base Camp - Lukla (Once the expedition ends)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
2:1 or 1:1 Guide/client ratio
1 Additional Sherpa Support for every 2 climbing members
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. Single room. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents, a single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
8 or 16 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use
60 kgs personal weight
Meals for Camps 1 - 4
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
The arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. How is namas operating Mt. Everest expedition differently?
We will have a dedicated high-altitude porter(s) to transport our waste from Camps 1 and 2 to Base Camp. The client-leading Sherpa team will assist in bringing the waste down from Camps 3 and 4 to Camp 2 during rotations and the summit descent.
WAGBAG
All members are required to bring a wag bag for use at higher camps and to carry their wag bags down to Base Camp for proper disposal. While this might seem standard practice, not every company does this. We have been implementing this protocol since our first Everest expedition.
Once waste reaches Base Camp, it will be securely sealed and transported via yak down to the valley for proper disposal at a designated landfill site. We firmly believe that when conducting expedition operations in our mountains, we have a moral duty to protect the environment and keep it clean for future generations.
There is a growing concern about pollution and waste being left on the mountains. This is a legitimate concern that we share. In line with our commitment to sustainable values, we are implementing these waste management strategies and continuously improving our program to address this issue.
We appreciate your cooperation in maintaining the pristine condition of our beautiful mountains.
4. The first ascent and debate
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition led by Lord John Hunt from the Nepal south col side. There is also the debate on whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the top of Everest from North side (tibet), on the final push of the 1924 expedition. They went missing soon after. No one knows whether they reached the top, a feat that, if proved, would rewrite climbing history.
5. The oldest and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest
The range of ages among those who have climbed Everest is staggering. The oldest person was Yuichiro Miura from Japan at 80 in 2013, while the youngest was American Jordan Romero at 13 in 2010.
A number of disabled climbers have reached the summit, including blind American Erik Weihenmayer in 2001 and double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand in 2006.
6. How many people have died on Everest?
Sadly 308 people have died on Everest, between 1922 and 2021. 165 have died on the Nepali side, while the remainder died on the Tibetan North side.
On 18 April 2014, 16 high-altitude local workers, including 13 Sherpas, were killed in the Khumbu Icefall below Camp 1, following a serac collapse on the mountain’s west shoulder. It was the worst single loss of life in the mountain’s history.
Despite this tragic loss of life, the fatality rate on Everest has been dropping in recent years, both for foreign climbers and hired high-altitude workers. According to the Himalayan Database – a useful resource for research on Everest – there were 61 deaths between 1950 and 1999 among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 1.52%. Between 2000 and 2014 there were 31 fatalities among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 0.57% – based on the number of journeys through the icefall.
7. Who holds the most Everest summit record?
Nepalese Sherpas hold the record for the most ascents. Kami Rita Sherpa X 29 summits and on second Ngima Nuru Sherpa X 22 summits.
8. How many climbing routes are there to climb Everest?
There are seventeen different routes to climb Everest. The two most famous and standard routes are South Col from Nepal and North Ridge from Tibet.
More detailed climbing routes on Alan Arnett's blog: https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12/28/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2018-edition/
Image from Alan Arnett Blog site
9. What experience do climbers need to climb Mt. Everest? Are guides necessary to climb Mt. Everest?
If you are a total beginner then you will definitely want to check out our Road to Everest program.
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 7000M and 1 X 8000M+ of any alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mt. Everest. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get the wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
For intermediate experience level climbers with no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience we highly suggest you build and gain the right experience before committing to climb Everest. Patience and right skill and experience is key and mostly the difference between death and survival in Everest.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
10. How many high camps are there on Mount Everest?
Strategically with Everest expedition we will have 4 high altitude camps.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 2 (6400M/20,997ft)
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M/23,622+ft)
South Col or Camp 4 (7906M/25,938ft)
11. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Mt. Everest expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
On our Everest Expedition, our team will climb Lobuche East 6119M for their acclimatization/training peak and we will strategically conduct several rotations between Camp 1 - 3 to acclimatise properly.
During the main expedition, our base camp will be fully stationed and extra facilities will be available. We will conduct training day and several rotation to acclimatise during our expedition. More details are on our Everest climbing strategy.
Note - If you want to shorten your Everest (Express) itinerary to 45 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
12. What training is required/experience for Mt. Everest expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Everest is the ultimate climb for many and by no means is an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M and 1X 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the ice fall or even the high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
13. How hard is Mt. Everest climbing expedition?
Everest expedition is graded at E / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 45 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Everest base camp our first objective challenge of navigating the great Khumbu icefall begins, mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, climbing on ladders just between the crevasse and ascending up the huge icefall to camp 1. As we go into higher elevation breathing will be challenging but with proper rotation acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment. You can expect to climb around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp 3 or camp 2 and then descend towards base camp the next day. Our teams will already have set up Everest base camp and the remaining 4 camps before client members reach there on their rotation and climbing days. Training walking on ladders, ice climbing and rotations are all meant to prepare you and acclimatize you for your summit. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mt. Everest expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mt. Everest expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Everest Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Mt. Everest Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our Everest base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
15. What trip insurance will I need for Mt. Everest Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
16. Next climbing goals after Mt. Everest Expedition climbing
Everest expedition being one of the most sought out expedition is also one of the expedition with the most organised facilitated expedition. After completing your Everest expedition successfully there are are other mind boggling and challenging/adventure filled expedition which we can recommend.
1. Annapurna 1, 8091m
The iconic Annapurna 1, is known for being one of the difficult and dangerous 8000er to climb.
2. K2, 8611M
K2, another dangeours and difficult second highest peak in the world.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Other related articles:
Everything you need to know about Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Cho Oyu 8201M
Climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th highest peak, is an incredible opportunity to stand atop one of the “easier” 8000m giants. Located on the Nepal-Tibet border, Cho Oyu offers stunning Himalayan scenery and a chance to glimpse life in Tibet. This complete guide provides everything you need to know to prepare for and succeed on the mighty Cho Oyu.
1. When is the best time to climb Cho Oyu?
The autumn months of September-October are an ideal season for climbing Cho Oyu.
2. How much does the Cho Oyu expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
Our Cho Oyu expedition is priced at USD $33,000 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio with additional Sherpa guides for high-altitude logistics/ rescue missions and the use of 4 X personal supplemental oxygen (highest in the industry). Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. Additional Supporting Guides will be allocated based on climbing members’ number.
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Chinese government climbing permits)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trail head. Tibet and Kathmandu
Flights Lhasha - Kathmandu - Lhasha
Expedition tents, single tents in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
4 Oxygen Bottles
60 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. The first ascent of Cho Oyu 8201M?
Cho Oyu was first summited in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition.
5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Cho Oyu?
There are two main commercial expedition routes in Cho Oyu. The west ridge route is the choice for most expedition companies.
6. Why is Cho Oyu considered easy and safest 8000M expedition?
Cho Oyu stands out as one of the easier and safer 8000m peaks, mainly attributed to its manageable technical difficulty and a camping/climbing route that is less susceptible to avalanches. The post-monsoon period in this region of Tibet-Nepal offers relatively stable weather conditions, resulting in a historically lower fatality rate compared to other peaks above 8000m. The presence of skilled Sherpa guides and the Nepalese climbing system further enhance the safety measures associated with Cho Oyu for high-altitude expeditions.
7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Cho Oyu 8201M expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?
Experiences - To participate in the Cho Oyu expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is a must for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions. Unlike other places, rules in Tibets are strict and clients will have to present proof of certification for the pre-requirements before climbing 8000M peaks.
For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M+ climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Cho Oyu may be considered. In Tibet, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.
8. What is the number of high camps established for the Cho Oyu expedition?
We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Cho Oyu expedition mission.
Route: West Ridge, Tibet
Advanced Base Camp (5800M/18372FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 1 (6500M/21,325FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 2 (7100M/3,294FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 3 (7400M/24278FT)
Cho Oyu Summit (8201M/27765FT) 12 - 16hrs
9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Cho Oyu expedition?
As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During Cho Oyu expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Advanced Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.
10. What level of training and experience is required for the Cho Oyu expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?
When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Cho Oyu expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (50-60Km+) weekly or cycling (100-160Km weekly), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
11. How hard is Cho Oyu How difficult is the climb?
Cho Oyu expedition is graded at D+ /4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Cho Oyu climb will require 35-42 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.
This expedition takes place in a remote location and we have a limited team size of Max 10 climbers.
12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?
Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider the Cho Oyu expedition as a perfect preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu 8163M expedition, Cho Oyu offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and less objective dangers compared to Manaslu (Avalanches especially and the true summit of Manaslu are tougher & technical compared to Cho Oyu)
13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Cho Oyu expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Cho Oyu climb?
Proper gear selection is essential for a successful climb. We highly recommend investing in high-quality gear and clothing and paying attention to layering properly for optimal comfort. As temperatures can drop to extreme lows of -20C/-40C at night, it is imperative that you are well-equipped to stay warm. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Regarding gear rental in Nepal, we do not recommend it. We understand that purchasing all the necessary gear can be costly, but it is worth the investment in the long run. It is preferable to rent gear from reputable adventure gear companies such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Kailas in your home city, rather than relying on potentially subpar gear available for rental in Nepal.
Recommended boots for Cho Oyu Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Cho Oyu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.
During the Cho Oyu Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.
Our team will provide packed dried meals as an alternative option and recommend a daily water intake of 4-6 liters. It's essential to stay hydrated throughout the expedition, and we suggest bringing hydration tablets or filtration bottles to ensure clean water is readily available. Additionally, we advise avoiding smoking and alcohol consumption while on the expedition as it can negatively impact performance and acclimatization.
Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.
15. Recommended insurance cover for Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Cho Oyu. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer essential comprehensive coverage, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas. Unfortunately, helicopter rescue is not possible in Tibet/China.
16. Next climbing goals after Cho Oyu Expedition?
Upon the successful completion of your Cho Oyu 8201M expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Mt Everest Express, Makalu 8563M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M or Express climb, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.
A. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition or Mt. Everest Express (30 Days or less)
The Mt. Everest expedition or Mt. Everest Express expedition is not only one of the most popular but also one of the most well-facilitated expeditions. Upon successfully completing your Cho Oyu climb, climbers should be ready to plan their dream climb to the highest peak in the world. MT. Everest 8848M
Ama Dablam 6810M is a technically demanding climbing goal for many mountaineers, known for its stunning beauty and exposed nature in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain to climb among mountaineering enthusiasts. We recommend considering climbing Ama Dablam before or after a larger expedition, such as Mount Everest, as it presents a significant mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is widely considered a "must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers.
C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)
Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.
Don't hesitate to reach out to us with any further questions. You can ask us in the comments below or send an email to bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will respond to you as soon as possible. Remember to take care of yourself and to always strive for greatness. Challenge yourself, dare to do great things, and make your story one worth telling.
Namaste
Namas Adventure Team
Other related articles:
Everything you need to know about Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Annapurna IV climbing route
1. When is the best time to climb Annapurna IV?
The spring months of March-May and autumn months of September-October are ideal seasons for climbing.
2. How much does the Annapurna IV expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
Our Annapurna IV expedition starts from USD $12,950 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio and the use of personal supplemental oxygen. Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
1X Supplemental Oxygen system
4 start Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu. 2 nights upon arrival and 1 night before departure.
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc) upon request
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/ GPS tracker
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. The first ascent of Annapurna IV 7525M?
Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.
5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Annapurna IV?
There is one commercial expedition route. North West ridge of the mountain.
6. How many peaks are included in the Annapurna Massif? Additionally, what is the level of difficulty of climbing Annapurna IV (7525M) compared to other peaks in the Annapurna range, and is it considered a safe climb?
It is a fact that Annapurna I (8091M) holds the reputation of being one of the most challenging peaks to climb in the world, with a 29% fatality rate. It is important to note, however, that the Annapurna massif range comprises of 6 distinct peaks, each with its own level of difficulty and inherent risks.
Annapurna I (Main) 8091M/26545ft, Annapurna I (Central) 8051M/26414ft, Annapurna I (East) 8010M/26280ft
Annapurna II 7937M/26040ft
Annapurna III 7555M/24786ft
Annapurna IV 7525M/25688ft
Annapurna South 7219M/23684ft
Annapurna Fang 7647M/25089ft
When compared to the other peaks in the Annapurna massif, 🏔 Annapurna IV (7525M) is considered to be one of the less challenging peaks to climb, with relatively fewer objective hazards present.
7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Annapurna IV expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?
Experiences - To participate in the Annapurna IV expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one easier 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is beneficial for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions.
For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Annapurna IV may be considered. In Nepal, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.
Professional Local Guides - As per Nepalese regulations, guides are mandatory for high-altitude peaks above 6000 meters. To obtain a permit for any major expedition, it must be done through a registered local company. However, for experienced climbers with a wealth of climbing experience, there may be routes that even local guides may not be familiar with. In such cases, it would be wise to consider having a guide as a backup option, even if you plan to explore new routes.
8. What is the number of high camps established for the Annapurna IV expedition?
We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Annapurna IV expedition mission.
Advanced Base camp 5700M
Camp 1 (6200M)
Camp 2 (6650M)
Camp 3 (7470M - 7500M)
Camp 4 Probability
9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Annapurna IV expedition?
As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During the Annapurna IV expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.
10. What level of training and experience is required for the Annapurna IV expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?
When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Annapurna IV expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (2-4 hours), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Personal trainer, ElevationfitnessLA - We have partnered with experienced personal trainers who can help you prepare for your mountaineering projects. One such trainer is Austin from Elevation Fitness LA (email). Austin is a personal trainer based in LA who has a passion for the outdoors and adventure. He has extensive experience in mountaineering, having completed expeditions such as Denali, Ama Dablam, peaks in the Alaska range, the Alps, and the Cascades, as well as being an avid rock climber. With 7 years of experience in the personal training industry, Austin is well-equipped to assist in your training and preparation for your upcoming climbing project.
11. How hard is Annapurna IV? How difficult is it to climb Annapurna IV 7525M?
Annapurna IV expedition is graded at AD+ / 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Annapurna IV climb will require 32 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.
This expedition takes place in a remote location and has a limited team size. If you are looking for a more secluded and less crowded climbing experience, this is the perfect expedition for you.
12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?
Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider using the Annapurna IV expedition as a preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu expedition, Annapurna IV offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and at a significantly lower cost.
13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Annapurna expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Annapurna IV climb?
Proper gear selection is essential for a successful climb. We highly recommend investing in high-quality gear and clothing and paying attention to layering properly for optimal comfort. As temperatures can drop to extreme lows of -20C/-40C at night, it is imperative that you are well-equipped to stay warm. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Regarding gear rental in Nepal, we do not recommend it. We understand that purchasing all the necessary gear can be costly, but it is worth the investment in the long run. It is preferable to rent gear from reputable adventure gear companies such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Kailas in your home city, rather than relying on potentially subpar gear available for rental in Nepal.
Recommended boots for Annapurna IV Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Annapurna IV Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.
During the Annapurna IV Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.
Our team will provide packed dried meals as an alternative option and recommend a daily water intake of 4-6 liters. It's essential to stay hydrated throughout the expedition, and we suggest bringing hydration tablets or filtration bottles to ensure clean water is readily available. Additionally, we advise avoiding smoking and alcohol consumption while on the expedition as it can negatively impact performance and acclimatization.
Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.
15. Recommended insurance cover for Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Annapurna IV. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer comprehensive coverage that includes helicopter evacuation, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas.
It is important to note that in case of an emergency, our guides will assess your condition and determine the best course of action. However, if helicopter evacuation is deemed necessary, we will contact the insurance company and obtain approval before proceeding. Keep in mind that the cost of evacuation will be your responsibility, but it can be claimed back through your insurance once you return home. Our team in Kathmandu will also provide guidance on the necessary steps to take for a successful claim. It's worth mentioning that there was a scam of helicopter evacuation in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to ensure that the claims are genuine.
16. Next climbing goals after Annapurna IV Expedition?
Upon the successful completion of your Annapurna IV expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Manaslu 8163M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.
A. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition
Ama Dablam 6810M is a technically demanding climbing goal for many mountaineers, known for its stunning beauty and exposed nature in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain to climb among mountaineering enthusiasts. We recommend considering climbing Ama Dablam before or after a larger expedition, such as Mount Everest, as it presents a significant mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is widely considered a "must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers.
B. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition
The Mt. Everest expedition is not only one of the most popular, but also one of the most well-facilitated. Upon successfully completing your climb, we highly recommend exploring other equally challenging and adventurous expeditions that we can provide.
C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)
Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.
Don't hesitate to reach out to us with any further questions. You can ask us in the comments below or send an email to bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will respond to you as soon as possible. Remember to take care of yourself and to always strive for greatness. Challenge yourself, dare to do great things, and make your story one worth telling.
Namaste
Namas Adventure Team
Other related articles:
Mount Everest expedition. New route, Nepal South side - Namas Adventure
New Proposed Sundari route, Everest Expedition, Nepal.
Legendary French mountaineer, Marc Batard and his team of Nepalese and french climbers have discovered a new route for Everest Expedition. Batard wants to further observe and test this route on his 2022 Spring Everest Expedition (without supplement O2) to see if it is commercially feasible. This alternative new route avoids the most dangerous part of the Nepal side Everest expedition, climbing the Great Khumbu Icefall.
This new route can be started from the village of Gorakshep which is at 5100M and the climbing route falls beneath the Nuptse ridge. The climb starts at an adjacent peak that was unnamed. Batard wanted to pay his homage to his former Sherpa team (Sundari Sherpa), named the peak Sundari Peak 5880M and the route Sundari route. Sundari Sherpa was part of his Everest expedition (1988) member who inspired him to climb Everest and break the speed record of the first ascent in less than 24hrs.
The route then leads to Camp 1 at 6065M, which is above Khumbu Icefall. Batard came up with this new route to find a safer alternative. Avoid the dangers of Khumbu Icefall which is nerve-racking even for experienced climbers. Batard team has fixed new 700M routes with 1000M ropes and 10mm screw blots. The idea is to have via-Ferrata with fixed metal railings, so that Sherpas with a heavy load can use it making it much-much safer compared to the dangerous Khumbu icefall. The team is aiming to fix the remaining 400M to Camp 2 (6400M).
What are your thoughts on this new proposed route which seems much safer, not just for the clients but to Sherpa members too? Please comment below.
We think this is a great alternative and this could even open a possibility for the Autumn Everest expedition. Historically Autumn season is avoided by expedition companies to avoid the dangers of avalanches that come falling from the hanging serac above the icefall.
Even if the Autumn season is not possible, this will give Sherpa’s working in Everest/Lhotse expedition an extra layer of safety when working in the mountains. We wish Batard and his team very best wishes and a safe summit during their 2022 (without supplement O2) expeditions.
God's speed and success. Live Your Story.
Namas Adventure team
Everything you need to know about Tilicho Peak 7134M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Tilicho base camp is set on the east side of the Mountain at 4900M
1. When is the best time to climb Tilicho peak?
Autumn (September - Mid November) is the best time to organise Tilcho Peak 7134M expedition.
2. How much does Tilicho 7134M Expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With Namas Adventure/Expedition team, please check our website (link). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead. We explore the least climbed and remote peaks in the Himalayas and around the globe.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members)
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (ACAP region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. The first ascent of Tilicho peak 7134M.
Tilicho Peak was first climbed by a French expedition led by Emanuel Schmutz in 1978 via the North West Shoulder.
4. How many climbing routes are there to climb Tilicho Peak?
Officially Tilicho peak has only been summited via the northwest shoulder.
5. What experience do climbers need to climb Tilicho Peak expedition? Are guides necessary?
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 6000M and several technical peaks of with alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Tilicho peak mountain. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get a wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc.
Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections, traversing on mountain slopes and climbing through spurs on the routes. Climbers must be highly efficient with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains, and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
This expedition is not for intermediate experience level climbers.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
6. How many high camps are there on this expedition?
Strategically on Tilicho peak expedition, we will have 2 to 3 high-altitude camps.
Camp 1 (5800M)
Camp 2 (6200M)
Camp 3 (6600M) - possibility after assessing the weather, snow/ice and other objective dangers in the mountains.
7. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Tilicho peak expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions, it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
During the expedition, our team will do a couple of rotations between camps 1 and 2 to acclimatize and get familiar with the routes. This gives our body to acclimatize at the extreme altitude and drop supplies at higher camps.
Note - If you want to shorten your Tilicho Peak (Express) itinerary to 24-25 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
8. What training is required/experience for Tilicho Peak expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Tilicho peak is graded at D+ (Fitness level) and by no means should this expedition be taken lightly and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M or 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, past climbing experiences, knowledge all play a vital role in order to successfully complete this expedition.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. And nothing beats the good old ways of climbing other smaller peaks and testing yourself before your main expedition. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
9. How hard is Tilicho Peak climbing expedition?
Tilicho Peak expedition is graded at D+/ 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 14 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Tilicho base camp 4900M our first objective challenge is to reach camp 1 navigating the ridge of North shoulder climbing through. spurs and steep 70 to 90 degree climbs to reach camps 1 and 2. Mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, and traversing on exposed ridges.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. and the wind starts to pick up. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment as we climb to gain 500+M to reach the summit and descend down back to camp 1. You can expect to climb for around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend as any normal climbs. Our base camp team members meanwhile will be waiting for your arrival. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
10. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Tilicho Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for this expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Mount Tilicho peak 7134M Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
11. What types of foods are available during Tilicho Peak Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our tilicho base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
12. What trip insurance will I need for this Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
13. Next climbing goals after Tilicho Peak Expedition climbing
Once you complete your objective of climbing Tilicho Peak you can start to plan further into other technical high altitude peaks that satisfy your climbing objective.
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest as Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Mera, Baruntse and Makalu (Triple Combo) or Baruntse with Mera Peak
Makalu Triple combo climbing expedition is one of the exciting mountain climbing expedition we organise at Namas Adventure. Climb the 5th highest peak in the world which is technically challenging but with a mix of climbing Mera Peak 6476M as your acclimatisation peak and Baruntse 7129M as your training peak. Mera Peak will be the most comfortable climbing peak helping you acclimatise and then we proceed onto the next 7000M peak objective of climbing Baruntse. The idea is to summit a 6000M+ peaks then to 7000M+ peak and then finally a 8000M peak.
Baruntse peak 7129M is one of the most remote peak sitting between Makalu and Everest/Lhotse. We will use this expedition to acclimatise further and also to train/refresh our climbing skills at higher altitude. Climbing Baruntse peak should further prepare us for taking on our final objective of climbing Makalu. After summiting Baruntse we then proceed towards Makalu base camp descending down via Sherpani col route.
Makalu 8463M will be the ultimate goal for this expedition. A mix of technical climb and extreme altitude this climb does not come easy. This expedition challenge is perfect after Everest expedition. You will need a serious endurance and strength in your fitness tank. Make this part of your climbing how ever it suits you. Some climbers want to climb all 14 X 8000M peaks or just another 8000M peak climbing achievement. What ever your goal Makalu is one of the best expedition to take on before or after Everest expedition.
We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your ultiamate dream of climbing Mt. Everest. If you are looking for a great climbing team and want to have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mt. Everest Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on Everest summit successfully. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
3. Manaslu 8163M Expedition
Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.
4. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Your ultiamte expedition climbing to the Roof of the world. Mt. Everest Expedition.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.