Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition
Everest Expedition 8848M
Note - Mt. Everest is officially a little higher. 8848.86M / 29,031.69FT (2020 new measurement)
1. When is the best time to climb Mt. Everest?
Spring (April-May) is the best time to climb Everest. All major commercial expeditions are organised during spring.
2. How much does Mt. Everest expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With our team, Namas Adventure team, your Everest expedition costs (website - click here). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. 🚁 Helicopter services to Lukla and rest day rotations BC - Namche Bazaar - BC and return to Lukla after your summit. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture, and having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holidays and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
🚁 Shared helicotper Kathmandu to Lukla. BC to Kathmandu and to Kathmandu.
🚁 to Namche Bazzar for 3-4 days and fly back to BC
✈️ Kathmandu or Ramechap - Lukla - Kathmandu or Ramechap (for members without helicopter option)
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff).Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu - Lukla. Base Camp - Namche Bazaar - BC. Base Camp - Lukla (Once the expedition ends)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
2:1 or 1:1 Guide/client ratio
1 Additional Sherpa Support for every 2 climbing members
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. Single room. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents, a single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
8 or 16 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use
60 kgs personal weight
Meals for Camps 1 - 4
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
The arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. How is namas operating Mt. Everest expedition differently?
We will have a dedicated high-altitude porter(s) to transport our waste from Camps 1 and 2 to Base Camp. The client-leading Sherpa team will assist in bringing the waste down from Camps 3 and 4 to Camp 2 during rotations and the summit descent.
WAGBAG
All members are required to bring a wag bag for use at higher camps and to carry their wag bags down to Base Camp for proper disposal. While this might seem standard practice, not every company does this. We have been implementing this protocol since our first Everest expedition.
Once waste reaches Base Camp, it will be securely sealed and transported via yak down to the valley for proper disposal at a designated landfill site. We firmly believe that when conducting expedition operations in our mountains, we have a moral duty to protect the environment and keep it clean for future generations.
There is a growing concern about pollution and waste being left on the mountains. This is a legitimate concern that we share. In line with our commitment to sustainable values, we are implementing these waste management strategies and continuously improving our program to address this issue.
We appreciate your cooperation in maintaining the pristine condition of our beautiful mountains.
4. The first ascent and debate
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition led by Lord John Hunt from the Nepal south col side. There is also the debate on whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the top of Everest from North side (tibet), on the final push of the 1924 expedition. They went missing soon after. No one knows whether they reached the top, a feat that, if proved, would rewrite climbing history.
5. The oldest and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest
The range of ages among those who have climbed Everest is staggering. The oldest person was Yuichiro Miura from Japan at 80 in 2013, while the youngest was American Jordan Romero at 13 in 2010.
A number of disabled climbers have reached the summit, including blind American Erik Weihenmayer in 2001 and double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand in 2006.
6. How many people have died on Everest?
Sadly 308 people have died on Everest, between 1922 and 2021. 165 have died on the Nepali side, while the remainder died on the Tibetan North side.
On 18 April 2014, 16 high-altitude local workers, including 13 Sherpas, were killed in the Khumbu Icefall below Camp 1, following a serac collapse on the mountain’s west shoulder. It was the worst single loss of life in the mountain’s history.
Despite this tragic loss of life, the fatality rate on Everest has been dropping in recent years, both for foreign climbers and hired high-altitude workers. According to the Himalayan Database – a useful resource for research on Everest – there were 61 deaths between 1950 and 1999 among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 1.52%. Between 2000 and 2014 there were 31 fatalities among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 0.57% – based on the number of journeys through the icefall.
7. Who holds the most Everest summit record?
Nepalese Sherpas hold the record for the most ascents. Kami Rita Sherpa X 29 summits and on second Ngima Nuru Sherpa X 22 summits.
8. How many climbing routes are there to climb Everest?
There are seventeen different routes to climb Everest. The two most famous and standard routes are South Col from Nepal and North Ridge from Tibet.
More detailed climbing routes on Alan Arnett's blog: https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12/28/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2018-edition/
Image from Alan Arnett Blog site
9. What experience do climbers need to climb Mt. Everest? Are guides necessary to climb Mt. Everest?
If you are a total beginner then you will definitely want to check out our Road to Everest program.
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 7000M and 1 X 8000M+ of any alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mt. Everest. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get the wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
For intermediate experience level climbers with no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience we highly suggest you build and gain the right experience before committing to climb Everest. Patience and right skill and experience is key and mostly the difference between death and survival in Everest.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
10. How many high camps are there on Mount Everest?
Strategically with Everest expedition we will have 4 high altitude camps.
Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)
Camp 2 (6400M/20,997ft)
Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M/23,622+ft)
South Col or Camp 4 (7906M/25,938ft)
11. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Mt. Everest expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
On our Everest Expedition, our team will climb Lobuche East 6119M for their acclimatization/training peak and we will strategically conduct several rotations between Camp 1 - 3 to acclimatise properly.
During the main expedition, our base camp will be fully stationed and extra facilities will be available. We will conduct training day and several rotation to acclimatise during our expedition. More details are on our Everest climbing strategy.
Note - If you want to shorten your Everest (Express) itinerary to 45 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
12. What training is required/experience for Mt. Everest expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Everest is the ultimate climb for many and by no means is an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M and 1X 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the ice fall or even the high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
13. How hard is Mt. Everest climbing expedition?
Everest expedition is graded at E / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 45 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Everest base camp our first objective challenge of navigating the great Khumbu icefall begins, mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, climbing on ladders just between the crevasse and ascending up the huge icefall to camp 1. As we go into higher elevation breathing will be challenging but with proper rotation acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment. You can expect to climb around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp 3 or camp 2 and then descend towards base camp the next day. Our teams will already have set up Everest base camp and the remaining 4 camps before client members reach there on their rotation and climbing days. Training walking on ladders, ice climbing and rotations are all meant to prepare you and acclimatize you for your summit. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mt. Everest expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mt. Everest expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Everest Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Mt. Everest Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our Everest base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
15. What trip insurance will I need for Mt. Everest Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
16. Next climbing goals after Mt. Everest Expedition climbing
Everest expedition being one of the most sought out expedition is also one of the expedition with the most organised facilitated expedition. After completing your Everest expedition successfully there are are other mind boggling and challenging/adventure filled expedition which we can recommend.
1. Annapurna 1, 8091m
The iconic Annapurna 1, is known for being one of the difficult and dangerous 8000er to climb.
2. K2, 8611M
K2, another dangeours and difficult second highest peak in the world.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
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Everything you need to know about Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Cho Oyu 8201M
Climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th highest peak, is an incredible opportunity to stand atop one of the “easier” 8000m giants. Located on the Nepal-Tibet border, Cho Oyu offers stunning Himalayan scenery and a chance to glimpse life in Tibet. This complete guide provides everything you need to know to prepare for and succeed on the mighty Cho Oyu.
1. When is the best time to climb Cho Oyu?
The autumn months of September-October are an ideal season for climbing Cho Oyu.
2. How much does the Cho Oyu expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
Our Cho Oyu expedition is priced at USD $33,000 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio with additional Sherpa guides for high-altitude logistics/ rescue missions and the use of 4 X personal supplemental oxygen (highest in the industry). Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. Additional Supporting Guides will be allocated based on climbing members’ number.
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Chinese government climbing permits)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trail head. Tibet and Kathmandu
Flights Lhasha - Kathmandu - Lhasha
Expedition tents, single tents in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
4 Oxygen Bottles
60 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. The first ascent of Cho Oyu 8201M?
Cho Oyu was first summited in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition.
5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Cho Oyu?
There are two main commercial expedition routes in Cho Oyu. The west ridge route is the choice for most expedition companies.
6. Why is Cho Oyu considered easy and safest 8000M expedition?
Cho Oyu stands out as one of the easier and safer 8000m peaks, mainly attributed to its manageable technical difficulty and a camping/climbing route that is less susceptible to avalanches. The post-monsoon period in this region of Tibet-Nepal offers relatively stable weather conditions, resulting in a historically lower fatality rate compared to other peaks above 8000m. The presence of skilled Sherpa guides and the Nepalese climbing system further enhance the safety measures associated with Cho Oyu for high-altitude expeditions.
7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Cho Oyu 8201M expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?
Experiences - To participate in the Cho Oyu expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is a must for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions. Unlike other places, rules in Tibets are strict and clients will have to present proof of certification for the pre-requirements before climbing 8000M peaks.
For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M+ climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Cho Oyu may be considered. In Tibet, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.
8. What is the number of high camps established for the Cho Oyu expedition?
We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Cho Oyu expedition mission.
Route: West Ridge, Tibet
Advanced Base Camp (5800M/18372FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 1 (6500M/21,325FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 2 (7100M/3,294FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 3 (7400M/24278FT)
Cho Oyu Summit (8201M/27765FT) 12 - 16hrs
9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Cho Oyu expedition?
As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During Cho Oyu expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Advanced Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.
10. What level of training and experience is required for the Cho Oyu expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?
When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Cho Oyu expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (50-60Km+) weekly or cycling (100-160Km weekly), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
11. How hard is Cho Oyu How difficult is the climb?
Cho Oyu expedition is graded at D+ /4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Cho Oyu climb will require 35-42 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.
This expedition takes place in a remote location and we have a limited team size of Max 10 climbers.
12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?
Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider the Cho Oyu expedition as a perfect preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu 8163M expedition, Cho Oyu offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and less objective dangers compared to Manaslu (Avalanches especially and the true summit of Manaslu are tougher & technical compared to Cho Oyu)
13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Cho Oyu expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Cho Oyu climb?
Proper gear selection is essential for a successful climb. We highly recommend investing in high-quality gear and clothing and paying attention to layering properly for optimal comfort. As temperatures can drop to extreme lows of -20C/-40C at night, it is imperative that you are well-equipped to stay warm. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Regarding gear rental in Nepal, we do not recommend it. We understand that purchasing all the necessary gear can be costly, but it is worth the investment in the long run. It is preferable to rent gear from reputable adventure gear companies such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Kailas in your home city, rather than relying on potentially subpar gear available for rental in Nepal.
Recommended boots for Cho Oyu Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Cho Oyu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.
During the Cho Oyu Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.
Our team will provide packed dried meals as an alternative option and recommend a daily water intake of 4-6 liters. It's essential to stay hydrated throughout the expedition, and we suggest bringing hydration tablets or filtration bottles to ensure clean water is readily available. Additionally, we advise avoiding smoking and alcohol consumption while on the expedition as it can negatively impact performance and acclimatization.
Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.
15. Recommended insurance cover for Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Cho Oyu. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer essential comprehensive coverage, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas. Unfortunately, helicopter rescue is not possible in Tibet/China.
16. Next climbing goals after Cho Oyu Expedition?
Upon the successful completion of your Cho Oyu 8201M expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Mt Everest Express, Makalu 8563M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M or Express climb, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.
A. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition or Mt. Everest Express (30 Days or less)
The Mt. Everest expedition or Mt. Everest Express expedition is not only one of the most popular but also one of the most well-facilitated expeditions. Upon successfully completing your Cho Oyu climb, climbers should be ready to plan their dream climb to the highest peak in the world. MT. Everest 8848M
Ama Dablam 6810M is a technically demanding climbing goal for many mountaineers, known for its stunning beauty and exposed nature in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain to climb among mountaineering enthusiasts. We recommend considering climbing Ama Dablam before or after a larger expedition, such as Mount Everest, as it presents a significant mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is widely considered a "must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers.
C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)
Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.
Don't hesitate to reach out to us with any further questions. You can ask us in the comments below or send an email to bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will respond to you as soon as possible. Remember to take care of yourself and to always strive for greatness. Challenge yourself, dare to do great things, and make your story one worth telling.
Namaste
Namas Adventure Team
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Everything you need to know about Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Annapurna IV climbing route
1. When is the best time to climb Annapurna IV?
The spring months of March-May and autumn months of September-October are ideal seasons for climbing.
2. How much does the Annapurna IV expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
Our Annapurna IV expedition starts from USD $12,950 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio and the use of personal supplemental oxygen. Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
1X Supplemental Oxygen system
4 start Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu. 2 nights upon arrival and 1 night before departure.
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc) upon request
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/ GPS tracker
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. The first ascent of Annapurna IV 7525M?
Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.
5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Annapurna IV?
There is one commercial expedition route. North West ridge of the mountain.
6. How many peaks are included in the Annapurna Massif? Additionally, what is the level of difficulty of climbing Annapurna IV (7525M) compared to other peaks in the Annapurna range, and is it considered a safe climb?
It is a fact that Annapurna I (8091M) holds the reputation of being one of the most challenging peaks to climb in the world, with a 29% fatality rate. It is important to note, however, that the Annapurna massif range comprises of 6 distinct peaks, each with its own level of difficulty and inherent risks.
Annapurna I (Main) 8091M/26545ft, Annapurna I (Central) 8051M/26414ft, Annapurna I (East) 8010M/26280ft
Annapurna II 7937M/26040ft
Annapurna III 7555M/24786ft
Annapurna IV 7525M/25688ft
Annapurna South 7219M/23684ft
Annapurna Fang 7647M/25089ft
When compared to the other peaks in the Annapurna massif, 🏔 Annapurna IV (7525M) is considered to be one of the less challenging peaks to climb, with relatively fewer objective hazards present.
7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Annapurna IV expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?
Experiences - To participate in the Annapurna IV expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one easier 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is beneficial for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions.
For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Annapurna IV may be considered. In Nepal, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.
Professional Local Guides - As per Nepalese regulations, guides are mandatory for high-altitude peaks above 6000 meters. To obtain a permit for any major expedition, it must be done through a registered local company. However, for experienced climbers with a wealth of climbing experience, there may be routes that even local guides may not be familiar with. In such cases, it would be wise to consider having a guide as a backup option, even if you plan to explore new routes.
8. What is the number of high camps established for the Annapurna IV expedition?
We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Annapurna IV expedition mission.
Advanced Base camp 5700M
Camp 1 (6200M)
Camp 2 (6650M)
Camp 3 (7470M - 7500M)
Camp 4 Probability
9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Annapurna IV expedition?
As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During the Annapurna IV expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.
10. What level of training and experience is required for the Annapurna IV expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?
When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Annapurna IV expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (2-4 hours), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Personal trainer, ElevationfitnessLA - We have partnered with experienced personal trainers who can help you prepare for your mountaineering projects. One such trainer is Austin from Elevation Fitness LA (email). Austin is a personal trainer based in LA who has a passion for the outdoors and adventure. He has extensive experience in mountaineering, having completed expeditions such as Denali, Ama Dablam, peaks in the Alaska range, the Alps, and the Cascades, as well as being an avid rock climber. With 7 years of experience in the personal training industry, Austin is well-equipped to assist in your training and preparation for your upcoming climbing project.
11. How hard is Annapurna IV? How difficult is it to climb Annapurna IV 7525M?
Annapurna IV expedition is graded at AD+ / 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Annapurna IV climb will require 32 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.
This expedition takes place in a remote location and has a limited team size. If you are looking for a more secluded and less crowded climbing experience, this is the perfect expedition for you.
12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?
Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider using the Annapurna IV expedition as a preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu expedition, Annapurna IV offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and at a significantly lower cost.
13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Annapurna expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Annapurna IV climb?
Proper gear selection is essential for a successful climb. We highly recommend investing in high-quality gear and clothing and paying attention to layering properly for optimal comfort. As temperatures can drop to extreme lows of -20C/-40C at night, it is imperative that you are well-equipped to stay warm. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Regarding gear rental in Nepal, we do not recommend it. We understand that purchasing all the necessary gear can be costly, but it is worth the investment in the long run. It is preferable to rent gear from reputable adventure gear companies such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Kailas in your home city, rather than relying on potentially subpar gear available for rental in Nepal.
Recommended boots for Annapurna IV Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
14. What types of foods are available during Annapurna IV Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.
During the Annapurna IV Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.
Our team will provide packed dried meals as an alternative option and recommend a daily water intake of 4-6 liters. It's essential to stay hydrated throughout the expedition, and we suggest bringing hydration tablets or filtration bottles to ensure clean water is readily available. Additionally, we advise avoiding smoking and alcohol consumption while on the expedition as it can negatively impact performance and acclimatization.
Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.
15. Recommended insurance cover for Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Annapurna IV. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer comprehensive coverage that includes helicopter evacuation, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas.
It is important to note that in case of an emergency, our guides will assess your condition and determine the best course of action. However, if helicopter evacuation is deemed necessary, we will contact the insurance company and obtain approval before proceeding. Keep in mind that the cost of evacuation will be your responsibility, but it can be claimed back through your insurance once you return home. Our team in Kathmandu will also provide guidance on the necessary steps to take for a successful claim. It's worth mentioning that there was a scam of helicopter evacuation in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to ensure that the claims are genuine.
16. Next climbing goals after Annapurna IV Expedition?
Upon the successful completion of your Annapurna IV expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Manaslu 8163M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.
A. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition
Ama Dablam 6810M is a technically demanding climbing goal for many mountaineers, known for its stunning beauty and exposed nature in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain to climb among mountaineering enthusiasts. We recommend considering climbing Ama Dablam before or after a larger expedition, such as Mount Everest, as it presents a significant mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is widely considered a "must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers.
B. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition
The Mt. Everest expedition is not only one of the most popular, but also one of the most well-facilitated. Upon successfully completing your climb, we highly recommend exploring other equally challenging and adventurous expeditions that we can provide.
C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)
Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.
Don't hesitate to reach out to us with any further questions. You can ask us in the comments below or send an email to bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will respond to you as soon as possible. Remember to take care of yourself and to always strive for greatness. Challenge yourself, dare to do great things, and make your story one worth telling.
Namaste
Namas Adventure Team
Other related articles:
Himlung Himal 7126M difficulty: Entry-level challenging 7000M mountain expedition - Namas Adventure
Near the summit of Himlung Himal 7126M
How hard is it to climb Himlung Himal? How difficult is it to climb Himlung Himal?
Climbing a Himlung Himal 7126M peak can be a physically and mentally demanding undertaking that requires a high level of physical fitness but not so much technical climbing skill. This 7000M+ peak expedition is classed as easy/safe (amongst the 7000M peak expeditions) and records one of the highest summit successes at the 7000er level. However, any climbers interested in this expedition should not underestimate the challenges this expedition poses.
Climbers who have a strong foundation of endurance and strength training, as well as experience with rock climbing, will be better prepared to handle the physical demands and technical challenges of this expedition.
Difficulty grade: AD+ and Fitness level: 4.
(Alpine / Fitness grade link)
The trek up to the base camp is a gradual several-day hike, slowly adapting and acclimatizing to the altitude and environment. Climbing high to Camp 1 involves a relatively easy 4-6 hour climb through glaciers, moraines, and small valleys. However, the traverse from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is more challenging, involving a steep and exposed scree slope that may be affected by snow conditions. The route to Camp 2 also involves traversing a glacier and avoiding crevasses, and fixed ropes will be used on the steeper and more exposed parts of the route. The risk of avalanches is generally low on both Camp 1 and Camp 2, but conditions should always be checked by the guide members.
The summit push on Himlung Himal is expected to be the longest and most challenging part of the climb. It involves a steep 45-50° vertical climb of 1100 meters in altitude, which is physically and mentally demanding. It is important for climbers to carefully plan their energy reserves not only for the ascent but also for the descent back to Camp 1, which can be a long and physically demanding journey. Your summit push day will be a 10 - 12hr+ journey.
Upon completing the Himlung Himal climb, you will have gained valuable experience that can prepare you for other challenging climbs in the Himalayas, such as Baruntse (7129 meters), Ama Dablam (6810 meters), Annapurna IV (7525 meters), or Manaslu (8163 meters). Our team is here to guide you through this exciting and remote expedition climbing journey.
Let’s climb. Go. Live Your Story
Climbing your first 8000M mountain peak - Namas Adventure
Which 8000M Mountain peak should I first aim for?
Which is the easiest, accessible, and safest 8000M peak to climb first?
What should my first ideal 8000M peak climb be?
Which 8000M should be my first challenge?
When considering an 8000M mountain peak expedition, it is important to have the right experience and preparation. Before attempting any 8000M peak, we recommend that climbers have completed at least two 6000M peak expeditions, such as Lobuche East 6119M, Island Peak 6189M, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua or Chulu West 6419M, as well as at least one expedition to a peak of 7000M or higher, such as Baruntse 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M, or Putha Hiunchuli 7246M. These expeditions will provide valuable experience and understanding of what it takes to be successful at high altitudes, as well as the physical and mental demands of long and challenging days in the mountains.
With that said, it is important to note that there are no easy or comfortable climbs at 8000M. However, when comparing the 14X8000M peaks, the expeditions listed below are considered entry-level and are generally considered to be less technical and safer options at this altitude
Manaslu 8163M
Manaslu 8163M, is the eighth highest mountain in the world and is considered an introductory 8000M mountain peak. This should be the choice for many climbers, who want to make this their first-ever expedition into 8000M. Granted this expedition sees many climbing teams during the autumn climbing season, this factor makes this expedition relatively safer logistically and with enough team support. There are fewer technical sections and fewer hazards. This has been the most preferred 8000M expedition ever since the Cho-Oyu expedition from the Chinese side has been uncertain and difficult dealing with Chinese authorities.
The lower section (between camp 1 and camp 2) has most of the objective danger and is also prone to avalanches. Make no mistake, all-mountain big or small is prone to these objective dangers. Climbing the true summit of Manaslu is another technical challenge. (Manaslu true summit blogpost link) The last 50M - 60M will have to be traversed on exposed slope sections and the summit can only fit 1-2 climbers at a time. You will need to sharpen your ice climbing and traversing climbing skills. But if you are comfortable with the fore summit then you need not worry about the final 50M - 60M technical climbing challenges on Manaslu.
Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.
This expedition is considered a must final crucial expedition for the “Road to Everest” expedition goal. Our team organizes Manaslu every year. Join us and let us help you step into 8000M safely and climb a true summit of Manaslu 8163M.
Cho-Oyu 8201M
Cho Oyu 8201M
Cho-Oyu 8201M, the 6th higher peak in the world is another safer mountain and gets its famous tag as the easiest 8000M peak. Located between Nepal and China, this 8000M peak lies 20km away from Mt.Everest. Where the difficulty lies in climbing this peak is complicated rules with Chinese authorities and uncertainties. New commercial routes from the Nepal side are begin tested (Gelje Sherpa team and Pioneer expedition team - 2022 Winter expedition) but the new route from the Nepal side is difficult and exposed. Only 14 people have climbed from Nepal’s side. Should the two team succeed with their expeditions, this will open doors to the Cho-Oyu expedition from Nepal’s side and a perfect alternative to climbing another 8000M peak from the Nepalese side.
Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.
Teams set up 3 higher camps with several rotations to strategize for the summit push. There are no real technical sections and the objective dangers are very few on the Chinese side of this peak. It is also one of the shorter 8000M expedition and base camp is even accessible by jeep. This makes it one of the most attractive expeditions for interested climbers and there have been well over 1000 ascents on this peak. On the Nepal side, the base camp is far, rugged, and longer compared to the Chinese side. This mountain is also a popular safer choice for high altitude skiers and snowboarders due to low objective risk and good snow conditions. Cho-Oyu 8201M, is mostly preferable to climb during the autumn season.
Our team is assessing situations with Nepal side climb and should the commercial route be tested and declared safer/accessible, we aim to plan the expedition from 2024 Autumn. Join us then
Are you planning your first-ever 8000M expedition? Want to test yourself in the death zone altitude before climbing higher to Mt. Everest or other tougher 8000M mountains? We hope the guidance and suggestion in this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of which 8000M to climb first. The right experience is a must and very important. Not only do inexperience and inadequate preparations hinder your chance of completing the expedition or endanger your life but also put the life of guide members and the team in danger too. Our team can help you prepare in the best way to gain the right experience to complete your dream of the first 8000M peak expedition.
Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼
Namas Adventure Team
Live Your Story
Mount Everest expedition. New route, Nepal South side - Namas Adventure
New Proposed Sundari route, Everest Expedition, Nepal.
Legendary French mountaineer, Marc Batard and his team of Nepalese and french climbers have discovered a new route for Everest Expedition. Batard wants to further observe and test this route on his 2022 Spring Everest Expedition (without supplement O2) to see if it is commercially feasible. This alternative new route avoids the most dangerous part of the Nepal side Everest expedition, climbing the Great Khumbu Icefall.
This new route can be started from the village of Gorakshep which is at 5100M and the climbing route falls beneath the Nuptse ridge. The climb starts at an adjacent peak that was unnamed. Batard wanted to pay his homage to his former Sherpa team (Sundari Sherpa), named the peak Sundari Peak 5880M and the route Sundari route. Sundari Sherpa was part of his Everest expedition (1988) member who inspired him to climb Everest and break the speed record of the first ascent in less than 24hrs.
The route then leads to Camp 1 at 6065M, which is above Khumbu Icefall. Batard came up with this new route to find a safer alternative. Avoid the dangers of Khumbu Icefall which is nerve-racking even for experienced climbers. Batard team has fixed new 700M routes with 1000M ropes and 10mm screw blots. The idea is to have via-Ferrata with fixed metal railings, so that Sherpas with a heavy load can use it making it much-much safer compared to the dangerous Khumbu icefall. The team is aiming to fix the remaining 400M to Camp 2 (6400M).
What are your thoughts on this new proposed route which seems much safer, not just for the clients but to Sherpa members too? Please comment below.
We think this is a great alternative and this could even open a possibility for the Autumn Everest expedition. Historically Autumn season is avoided by expedition companies to avoid the dangers of avalanches that come falling from the hanging serac above the icefall.
Even if the Autumn season is not possible, this will give Sherpa’s working in Everest/Lhotse expedition an extra layer of safety when working in the mountains. We wish Batard and his team very best wishes and a safe summit during their 2022 (without supplement O2) expeditions.
God's speed and success. Live Your Story.
Namas Adventure team
Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure
For years if not decades climbers have been debating about reaching the true summit(4) of Manaslu and where it actually is. Finally this year the drone shot captured by Jackson Groves during his Manaslu expedition made it clear as daylight to the world. His images clear the argument once and for all. Jackson himself mentions in his blog (Journeyera) that he stopped short at the fore summit and did not proceed to the main summit.
Mingma G seen climbing to the main summit. Majority of climbers previously stopped at the fore summit, claiming Manaslu 8163M Summit.
Mingma G, who set up the fix-rope at the pinnacle snow point of the summit (true summit) along with the Himalayan database claimed that this was only achieved only after 45 years (1976). Others argue otherwise but now we can understand why reaching the true summit which is 20m-25m away from the fore summit (Shelf 2) is such a dangerous challenge to overcome at 8100M+ level.
The last section is very technical and exposed which has to be climbed down a few feet, traversed through steep, snow, and rocky slopes with more than a hundred-meter drop, and is clearly not for any inexperienced climbers.
Manaslu 8163M expedition is considered an introductory 8000M+ expedition to see how non-seasoned climbers handle themselves climbing at the death zone but the last section from the fore summit to the true summit is not for the inexperienced climbers. For one the climb is a very dangerous and technical climb this final section which won’t be able to handle any sort of traffic jams and any form of rescue in between is near to impossible. Only very experienced seasoned climbers who want to stamp their name on the elitist group whose aim to hold records or gather as many summits are advised or if you have several previous climbing experiences (not just 2 or 3) then going up to the real summit is advised. Also, bearing in mind now that the true summit is clear to many, most climbers will be attempting the pinnacle point hence traffic might become an issue in such a small section.
Prior to this year (Autumn 2021), Manaslu 8163M summit has been claimed by many but it turns out only a handful of climbers had been to the main summit. The Tolerance zone concept proposed by Stefan Nestler is particularly interesting. His concept suggests two types of summiteers -
The general summit group: Many who have claimed to be at the summit have gone back home believing that they have been to the true summit. This will definitely come as an annoyance to many but the majority of the climbers who do not care about being in the absolute elite list won’t be back to climb Manaslu just to climb the few last meters.
The elitist summit group: Are the absolutes who make no compromises even to the last stone or snow point at the very top to claim the true summit. These climbers will have to come back to update their summit records.
Moving forward climbers who want to climb Manaslu as an introductory 8000M expedition will have to think really hard and make a sensible decision before venturing further away from the fore summit to the true summit. For the ones who want to be on the elite table list, the debate has ended and the true summit is clear. Operators too will have to be clear about the true summit and fore summit plans.
So, as the debate ends, are you planning to climb Manaslu 8163M in near future? Namas Adventure/Expedition team will be planning our expedition strategy to the true summit. However, to the non-seasoned climbers, the option of climbing the fore summit is still possible with our team.
See you in the mountains.
Go. Live Your Story.
Everything you need to know about Tilicho Peak 7134M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Tilicho base camp is set on the east side of the Mountain at 4900M
1. When is the best time to climb Tilicho peak?
Autumn (September - Mid November) is the best time to organise Tilcho Peak 7134M expedition.
2. How much does Tilicho 7134M Expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With Namas Adventure/Expedition team, please check our website (link). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead. We explore the least climbed and remote peaks in the Himalayas and around the globe.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members)
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (ACAP region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. The first ascent of Tilicho peak 7134M.
Tilicho Peak was first climbed by a French expedition led by Emanuel Schmutz in 1978 via the North West Shoulder.
4. How many climbing routes are there to climb Tilicho Peak?
Officially Tilicho peak has only been summited via the northwest shoulder.
5. What experience do climbers need to climb Tilicho Peak expedition? Are guides necessary?
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 6000M and several technical peaks of with alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Tilicho peak mountain. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get a wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc.
Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections, traversing on mountain slopes and climbing through spurs on the routes. Climbers must be highly efficient with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains, and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
This expedition is not for intermediate experience level climbers.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
6. How many high camps are there on this expedition?
Strategically on Tilicho peak expedition, we will have 2 to 3 high-altitude camps.
Camp 1 (5800M)
Camp 2 (6200M)
Camp 3 (6600M) - possibility after assessing the weather, snow/ice and other objective dangers in the mountains.
7. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Tilicho peak expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions, it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
During the expedition, our team will do a couple of rotations between camps 1 and 2 to acclimatize and get familiar with the routes. This gives our body to acclimatize at the extreme altitude and drop supplies at higher camps.
Note - If you want to shorten your Tilicho Peak (Express) itinerary to 24-25 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
8. What training is required/experience for Tilicho Peak expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Tilicho peak is graded at D+ (Fitness level) and by no means should this expedition be taken lightly and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M or 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, past climbing experiences, knowledge all play a vital role in order to successfully complete this expedition.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. And nothing beats the good old ways of climbing other smaller peaks and testing yourself before your main expedition. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
9. How hard is Tilicho Peak climbing expedition?
Tilicho Peak expedition is graded at D+/ 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 14 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Tilicho base camp 4900M our first objective challenge is to reach camp 1 navigating the ridge of North shoulder climbing through. spurs and steep 70 to 90 degree climbs to reach camps 1 and 2. Mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, and traversing on exposed ridges.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. and the wind starts to pick up. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment as we climb to gain 500+M to reach the summit and descend down back to camp 1. You can expect to climb for around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend as any normal climbs. Our base camp team members meanwhile will be waiting for your arrival. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
10. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Tilicho Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for this expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Mount Tilicho peak 7134M Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
11. What types of foods are available during Tilicho Peak Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our tilicho base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
12. What trip insurance will I need for this Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
13. Next climbing goals after Tilicho Peak Expedition climbing
Once you complete your objective of climbing Tilicho Peak you can start to plan further into other technical high altitude peaks that satisfy your climbing objective.
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest as Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Mera, Baruntse and Makalu (Triple Combo) or Baruntse with Mera Peak
Makalu Triple combo climbing expedition is one of the exciting mountain climbing expedition we organise at Namas Adventure. Climb the 5th highest peak in the world which is technically challenging but with a mix of climbing Mera Peak 6476M as your acclimatisation peak and Baruntse 7129M as your training peak. Mera Peak will be the most comfortable climbing peak helping you acclimatise and then we proceed onto the next 7000M peak objective of climbing Baruntse. The idea is to summit a 6000M+ peaks then to 7000M+ peak and then finally a 8000M peak.
Baruntse peak 7129M is one of the most remote peak sitting between Makalu and Everest/Lhotse. We will use this expedition to acclimatise further and also to train/refresh our climbing skills at higher altitude. Climbing Baruntse peak should further prepare us for taking on our final objective of climbing Makalu. After summiting Baruntse we then proceed towards Makalu base camp descending down via Sherpani col route.
Makalu 8463M will be the ultimate goal for this expedition. A mix of technical climb and extreme altitude this climb does not come easy. This expedition challenge is perfect after Everest expedition. You will need a serious endurance and strength in your fitness tank. Make this part of your climbing how ever it suits you. Some climbers want to climb all 14 X 8000M peaks or just another 8000M peak climbing achievement. What ever your goal Makalu is one of the best expedition to take on before or after Everest expedition.
We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your ultiamate dream of climbing Mt. Everest. If you are looking for a great climbing team and want to have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mt. Everest Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on Everest summit successfully. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
3. Manaslu 8163M Expedition
Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.
4. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Your ultiamte expedition climbing to the Roof of the world. Mt. Everest Expedition.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Other related articles:
Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition
Manaslu BC 4800M
Manaslu Expedition is considered a must climb for anyone seeking to climb Everest or other challenging 8000M+ peaks in the world. Crowning itself the eighth highest peak in the world, this mountaineering expedition is suitable for anyone with 6000M - 7000M+ climbing experience. This is a perfect expedition to experience not only the challenges of climbing an extreme altitude peak but also experience the death zone altitude climb. The climbing route is technical and strenuous with fixed rope line support available to reach the summit. We expect all climbers to be extremely fit for any 7000M - 8000M+ expedition.
During climbing days, Sherpa guides leaders from several groups work together to set up the ropes. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snowy surfaces with an exposed section past 6600M+ all the way to the summit. Be ready for long duration of climbing on steep vertical section, crossing through crevasse and jumar/climbing/walking on steep sections for long hours. This is definitely a must climb for any climbers seeking high altitude climbing adventure if you particularly dream to climb Mt.Everest.
*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Manaslu 8163M climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Manaslu?
Manaslu is best suited to climb at the end of Monsoon season in Nepal. (3rd week of August to October)
Note - Manaslu is one of the most popular climbs at 8000M+ level in Nepal after Everest. You can expect several teams to attempt the climb in any given year.
2. How much does the Manaslu expedition cost? What does it include?
With Namas Adventure team, the Manaslu expedition costs $18250 P/P (Heli charter Ktm - Samagaon - Ktm) and $17500 P/P (trek to Samagaon and back via helicopter to Ktm from Samagoan). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their expedition and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IMFGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$1000 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
🚁 Helicopter charter to Nearest village (Sama Gaon) from Base camp and 🚁 helicopter charter back to Kathmandu after you summit and return to base camp. (clients who choose this option)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. ( Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )
2 X Oxygen cylinder (Additional Cylinder $500 per O2 cylinder)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
60 kgs personal weight
Meals at higher camps
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/GPS tracking system
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. What experience do climbers need to climb Manaslu? Are guides necessary to climb Manaslu?
Experiences - Previous high altitude (6000M - 7000M+) alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Manaslu. If you have climbed peaks above 6000M+ such as Chulu West 6419M, Lobuche East & Island Peak and 7000er peaks such as Baruntse Peak 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M,and Mt. Nun 7135M sets you up perfectly for the Manaslu expedition. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal and can be anywhere else in the world. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience in hiking/climbing/traversing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Must be comfortable and proficient in using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. You should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, and basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
On most major expeditions in Nepal for the majority of the time, climbers will have to rely on their jumaring skill and strength (ascending) and rappeling/abseiling skills to safely descend down the mountains. Your strength and endurance to continue for a long duration are very key for any climbers to complete this expedition.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Manaslu Expedition, you will have to go through a registered local company. For intermediate-level or even professional experience-level climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The standard climbing route does have several objective dangers/challenges and there are chances of avalanche, there for local knowledge and guidance is super key on any major expeditions.
If you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for the climbing Manaslu expedition?
On high-altitude climbing trips it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
On the Manaslu expedition, we have strategized our itinerary with 4 high camps and several rotations between camps 1, 2, and 3 so that climbers are well acclimatized, recovered, and stronger to complete the expedition successfully.
More details are on our Manaslu climbing strategy.
5. What training is required/experience for Manaslu climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Manaslu climbing is by no means an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 6000M - 7000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the mountains. We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Kettle bell strength + endurance training twice or three times a week are also recommended to build muscular endurance. We advise you to schedule your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
6. How hard is Manaslu climbing expedition?
Manaslu expedition is graded at 4E in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 35 days of alpine climbing days with contingency days in case of bad weather. The climb will demand every ounce of your fitness and awareness. Breathing will be challenging but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
When we depart from the base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. Once staged up and set up at base camp the climbers prepare here for the next 35 days of climbing and summiting Manaslu. Once setting off from camps to camps Manaslu has some of the longest and uphill steep climbs. Climbing route is in a very exposed area and there are significant dangers of crevasses opening and avalanches. Ladders are set up by guide members from several expedition team and it is best to always follow the instructions of your guide when climbing.
All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges.
7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Manaslu climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Manaslu expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-30c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Mountaineering Boots for Manaslu Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. What types of foods are available during Manaslu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Most of the foods are prepared in the Base camp and during your climbing days foods are carried up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food as our chef will prepare energy-dense delicacies in our base camp kitchen and all you have to do is enjoy your meal, recover and get stronger. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
9. What trip insurance will I need for Manaslu Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Manaslu region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts and a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim.
There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Manaslu Expedition climbing
If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition
3. Makalu 8463M, Nepal
Manaslu Expedition is one of the exciting 8000M mountain climbing expedition in Nepal. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Manaslu climbing journey. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Manaslu Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.
Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
When to climb Ama Dablam? (Spring or Autumn) - Namas Adventure
Ama Dablam climbing to camp 2
When planning an expedition to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal, you may be wondering what the best time to tackle this peak is. With years of experience leading expeditions and local knowledge from our guides, we can say that it really depends on your preference for climbing in different conditions. Luckily, Ama Dablam is accessible for climbing in both spring and autumn. In this article, we will outline the conditions you can expect during each season, so you can choose the one that best fits your style and preferences.
What’s the difference between Spring & Autumn climb? 🧗
There are fewer climbers during the spring season (70% fewer climbers) compared to the autumn season.
More snow/Ice on the mountain during the spring season result.
The spring season sees a longer daylight duration compared to the autumn season.
Spring climbing days are colder & more snow showers are to be expected.
Autumn sees more stable weather compared to the spring season.
More Avalanche prone (Camp 3) during Autumn.
Spring (Mid March - End May) sees a lot more snow compared to autumn. The spring season on Ama Dablam is a true test of adventure and endurance. With fewer crowds and the added challenge of fresh, deep snow, it's the perfect opportunity for thrill-seekers to test their mettle. The chance to stake a claim on the notorious Yellow Tower is a rare and coveted opportunity, and the chance to tackle the mountain's vertical and exposed sections with minimal traffic is an experience not to be missed. Spring tests your patience, especially when things don't go according to plan, and teams may need to improvise a lot. That's why spring sees fewer climbers on other peaks (excluding Everest and Lhotse) compared to autumn. However, when spring does offer clear weather, it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal.
Irina Galay - Ama Dablam Spring Expedition
Autumn (Mid-September - End of November) attracts many climbers to most of the peaks in Nepal. The snow and ice melt during spring and monsoon, revealing granite rock formations that are visible while climbing. The post-monsoon air brings clean and crisp conditions, and the snow in the Himalayan peaks has melted and settled significantly compared to the deep, snowy conditions of spring. This makes the climbing conditions more favorable for all climbers. The season starts earlier, with shorter days and stable weather conditions. The autumn season begins in September and typically sees snowfall towards the end of November, with heavy falls expected as winter approaches. Ama Dablam is particularly popular with climbers during this season, and is probably the most famous peak to climb in autumn."
Descending Ama Dablam - Autumn season
Conclusion
As you stand at the base of Ama Dablam, the icy peak towering above you, you can't help but feel a surge of excitement and nerves. This is a mountain that demands respect, with its steep, technical routes and high altitudes. But you are ready for the challenge.
Whether you choose to brave the snowy conditions of spring or the crisp, stable autumn weather, one thing is certain: this will be an adventure you'll never forget. With fewer climbers on the mountain during the spring season, you may even have the chance to claim your own slice of solitude on the iconic Yellow Tower.
As you make your way up the mountain, the challenges will come thick and fast. From vertical ice walls to exposed traverses, Ama Dablam will test every ounce of your skill and determination. But as you stand on the summit, triumphant, you'll know that the reward was worth it.
So what are you waiting for? Grab your gear and join us on an unforgettable journey to the top of Ama Dablam. It may be tough, but the memories you'll make will last a lifetime
Lets, go summit Ama Dablam and other peaks around the world.
Go.
Live Your Story.
Question.
Which season do you plan to climb Ama Dablam & Island Peak (or Lobuche East(? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.
We organize Ama Dablam and Island Peak expedition (or Lobuche East via Gokyo) every year during spring and occasionally during autumn. Planning to climb Baruntse one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.
Baruntse New Route (West Face "A Heavenly trap")
New West face route. Heavenly trap. 2021 May Completed by two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh
Two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and fellow Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh completed a new route ascent to Baruntse 7129M in alpine style via the west face route which they named as “Heavenly trap” (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m). They dedicated this route line to their friend Petr Machold & Kuba Vanek, who passed away in this same route 8 years ago.
Marek true to his alpine style described this as one of his hardest climbs. On top, they completed this feat during Cyclone YASS. The pair originally planned and packed for 6 days of the climb instead they had to spend 10 days up in the walls with 7 bivouac camps. Sounds gnarly and super intense. Marek outlines and gives us a glimpse they suffered and endured everything that was thrown at them.
COMPARING BARUNTSE TWO ROUTES
Standard route vs Heavenly trap. Difference of Classic mountaineering style vs Alpine style
In the image above you can see the difference between the two routes (In Green - Heavenly trap, Alpine-style vs In Blue - Standard route, classic mountaineering style). Almost all expedition companies (including Namas Adventure/EXPEDITION) organize Baruntse expedition with classic mountaineering style. This style and route are easier and safer if you compare it with the alpine climbing style. Not to say mountaineering style is easy but when making the comparison it is pretty much clear which climbing style is tougher.
Two Alpine style routs of Baruntse. Russain-Efimov 1995 & Czech 2021.
We highlight some of the moments from this epic climb.
“The Heavenly Trap” route (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m). Westface. Baruntse. Image courtesy - Alpine Magazine.
21st May 2021 - Soon after navigating the glaciers they had to bivouac just below the base of the mountain.
22nd May 2021 - 10 Hours on crampons and climbing. Hard ice climb starts from the lower section. Tougher sections as they climb higher. Bivouac in sitting position.
23rd May 2021 - Good weather. Diagonal lead climb. Slow progress and lots of energy used. Tent in snow rib and bivouc.
24th May 2021 - Most difficult passage of the ascent. Climbing during heavy snowfall. Snowfall and wind all night.
25th May 2021 - Bad weather, no option but to climb. Plan to summit early but with snowfall and wind making it tough on the mixed section which will take all day. Summit around 4 PM in foggy conditions and low visibility. No summit cheers or photos as the weather are at its extreme. Set up the tent and wait it out.
26th - 28th May 2021 - Devlisih weather. Struggling even to boil water or take a piss. Wet, cold, frozen and pray it all settles down. Clears snow several times from the tent.
29th May 2021 - Weather improves and this is the opportunity. Descends down 1000M. Risk of avalanche so descends slowly. Impossible to make it to the glacier hence the final and another brutal bivouac awaits.
30th May 2021 - Beautiful morning and with this opportunity they call helicopter evacuation via satellite phone. Finally, around 7 am the helicopter evacuates them and flies them to Lukla.
Radoslav "Radar" Groh (left) and Marek "Mara" Holecek (Right)
Find our more detailed interview provided by Marek in the climbing magazine and alpinist magazine.
Video
Want to climb Baruntse (Classic Mountaineering style) in the remote Makalu/Barun region of Nepal? For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
2021 Best Mountaineering Boots 7000 - 8000M - Namas Adventure
Extreme high altitude mountaineering is a geared heavy activity. Specialised gears are a must and mountaineering boots specially fit in that category. Mountaineering boots should be considered as an investment, as these boots are not only meant for climbing but serve other crucial functions to keep your feet protected so that the climber's feet are warm, safe, and performing. Let’s talk about the best boots for 7000M - 8000M+ level. How many or which boots depend on your personal preference. i.e one pair of boots for 7000m and the other pair for 8000M+ or just one pair for all expeditions. First, let’s discuss the important functional features of the boots and the rest can come later. Below are 2021’s best extreme high altitude boots for 7000M- 8000M+ level. So if you are planning expeditions like Baruntse, Manaslu, Ama Dablam, Himlung Himal, or Mt. Everest these are the boots we highly recommend. First, let us help you be clear with the category of boot and crampons needed for this type of expedition.
Mountaineering boots and crampon category (More on Boots category blog post):
B3 Boots (7000M & 8000M+)
B3 boots are designed for extreme mountaineering. This category of boots has the stiffest soles and uppers available, providing lateral and medial support for front pointing, step-kicking, and traversing on steep terrain giving climbers a high level of traction for the most challenging conditions. This category includes high-altitude double boots as well as lighter technical climbing models. These boots allow both heels and toe welts to allow fitting of C2 - C3 crampons to take advantage of the easy step-in attachment system of heel clip and toe bar. B3 boots are the best when it comes to innovations and standards of high-altitude mountaineering boots.
Insulations
Double
As the name suggests double boots feature a structured outer boot combined with an insulating liner boot that can be removed. They are generally slightly heavier than single boots and are bulkier, but they do offer that extra level of warmth. They can also be easier to dry in more remote locations, but the inner booties can be worn while you are tucked inside your sleeping bags.
Triple
This is a hybrid mountaineering boot and is becoming increasingly popular amongst both the makers and climbers when it comes to extreme mountaineering. Perhaps more similar to a single boot with the addition of an integrated gaiter for extra warmth and snow protection, this also helps to keep them drier than a single boot. If they do become wet, you can’t dry them as easily as you can a double boot.
Lacing system
Standard lacing system
Like the name suggest standard lacing system are the same as in any boots. The only benefit of this to BOA system is, should it break or is damaged it is easily replaceable with other extra laces. Like any normal shoelaces.
Boa system
BOA systems are a handy and easy method to loosen or tighten your shoes. Simply rotate the screws to tighten or pop open and adjust your feet to loosen. The only downside of this system is that it is hard or impossible to repair when you are climbing in the mountains. We have a kind of love-hate relationship with this, very convenient on one end and if it breaks we have no way to repair it especially in the mountains.
Crampons category
C2
C2 crampons are referred to as mixed, hybrids, or semi-step crampons. These crampons are ideal for winter climbing and alpinism. The binding system of C2 crampons is compatible with B2 and B3 boots as they require a stiff sole and heel groove to lock onto. Traditionally C2 crampon usually has 10-12 points that include secondary spikes, that are semi-sharp.
C3
C3 crampons combine a metal toe bail with a plastic heel lever and as a result, they are referred to as ‘Step in’. The Step-in system requires very stiff boots with both a crampon heel and toe groove, because of this they are only compatible with B3 mountaineering boots. C3 crampons normally have 12-14 points that offer the best performance on steep icy slopes and technical mixed routes. Additionally, aggressive front points offer the best penetration on hard ice and on some models the front tips are replaceable. These are ideal for the hardest winter climbs and high-altitude ascents.
Famous ones:
La Sportiva - Olympus Mons Cube
When it comes to mountaineering and boots La Sportiva is one of the market leaders and they do make amazing mountaineering boots. Olympus Mons Cube is their latest non plus ultra of technicality for Himalayan mountaineering, arctic crossings, and uses in extremely cold conditions. The boot is 100% made in the Dolomites and guarantees lightweight, quick fit, safety, and water repellent for the mountaineer. The model features extremely contained external volumes, for a dual thermal high mountaineering boot and reduced weight compared to the previous version becoming the lightest model in its category.
Boot Features
Gaiter: Water repellent, stretch Cordura® + extremely high abrasion-resistant fabric with UltraSonic Welding technology and internal heat sealing + inner water repellent gusset
Inner Shell: High tenacity Nylon uppers + PE with different densities + thermo-reflective aluminum
Lacing: Double Boa® Fit System in the upper part and in the lower part of the shell for differentiated lacing
Removable double bootie: High cut outer layer: 6 mm PE + EVA Single Density with Flex Zone and double hook&loop closure - Low cut inner layer: 4 mm PE + EVA Single Density
Insole: Insulating carbon HoneyComb 3 mm + Gold Insulation Aerogel 3 mm by PrimaLoft®
Midsole: TPU 2 mm polyurethane with differentiated thickness at the toe and heel for attaching the crampon + front insert for tech skialp binding
Sole: Combination of Vibram® Litebase and Vibram® MorFlex® Expanded EVA for maximum lightweight, abrasion resistance and thermal insulation
Weight: 1.300 g (1/2 pair)
Sizes: 38 - 48 (+ 1/2) (49-50 on request)
Scarpa - Phantom 8000
Worn by Nims Dai and the Nepalese team who summited the first K2 Winter climb. So you can be certain that these boots are bound to perform in the extremes. The Phantom 8000 represents the very pinnacle of SCARPA design to create the warmest technical boot for use on the world’s highest and coldest mountains. Built around the expedition-proven double boot concept, the innovative Phantom 8000 uses state of the art construction materials for lightweight, waterproof, and warmth. The gaiter now had an offset waterproof zip to make the outer boot even easier to get on and off when wearing gloves. The inner shell is now even warmer as well as easier to operate. Wintherm technology creates a secondary layer of insulation under the gaiter. The Sock-fit XT tongue combined with the new fast lock lace system and fast strap closure make it even easier to get a close, precise fit, with no pressure points over the foot.
Boot Features
Crampon Rating C3
Inner Boot Altitude 8000
Insole Carbon Fiber + EVA + Aerogel®
Last Outer Boot- HAR8 Liner- RL
Sole Vibram 0 Gravity Lite
Upper PU-Tek + S-Tech + H-Dry®
Weight 2650g pair 42
Millet - Everest Summit GTX
Millets iconic EVEREST SUMMIT GTX is their benchmarking boot built for most extreme conditions. Recco tracking technology is integrated into their boots. Technically pre-eminent with its absolutely protective and thermal design. This boot project’s hand-made Italian quality has played a major role in the history of mountaineering. Designed for a universal fit, which convinces all feet. Yannick Graziani wore this model when scaling the south face of Annapurna: it protected him from the biting cold of this inhospitable wall and the irreversible effects of frostbite. This "five-season" product is designed for extreme winters and expeditions at very high altitudes. Guaranteeing protection down to -60°C, the EVEREST SUMMIT GTX is the boot most widely used for off-the-scale trips thanks to its ample interior, giving highly accessible fit. No need to have a slim foot to benefit from its excellent performance-to-precision ratio. A boot ready to step into any faraway adventure - but above all, the adventures you invent for it.
Boots Features
Fabric technologies: Aero therm, Gore tex, Primaloft, Recco, Vibram
thermal construction: outer boot + shell + inner boot, isothermal to -60°c precise fit,
crampon compatible rigid plantar support
waterproof gaiter, anti
perforation upper, zip closure with reflective velcro over flap
Armor edge fabric on medial to protect from crampon damage
strong insulated inner shell, easy
quick lacing
high thermal efficiency inner boot, insulated insole
lightweight, precise mountaineering outsole
Not so Famous brands
Asolo - Manaslu 8000 GV
Technical and high-altitude mountaineering and extreme use in cold environments. Developed in collaboration with the Asolo Test Team the model is engineered for extreme alpinism and low temperatures use guaranteeing maximum performances. This is Asolo’s triple-layer boots. The external gaiter guarantees resistance to abrasion and thermal insulation. Their zip closure system is meant for fast, waterproof, and precision when putting on thier boots.
Boot Features
OUTER GAITER: High tenacity stretch Cordura + neoprene + Schoeller Soft Shell + Pu rand
GAITER LINING: Gore-Tex Extended Comfort Footwear
SHELL: Cordura laminated with aluminum film + polyethylene 3 mm
SHELL LINING: Polyesthilene + polyester
INNER BOOT: Cordura laminated with aluminum film + polyethylene 3mm
INNER BOOT LINING: Primaloft 400 grams
LASTING BOARD: Carbon fiber
ANATOMIC FOOTBED: Manaslu Primaloft + no woven textile
SOLE: Vibram Betulla + toe reinforcement in full Vibram rubber; microporous midsole + Tpu crampon attachments
FIT: Man
WEIGHT: 1.250 (g) (1/2 pair size 8 UK)
SIZE: 7-12 UK
Boreal - G1 EXPE
G1 Expe is a triple layer boot consisting of an integrated outer gaiter, mid-layer ‘shell’, and a removable inner bootie. The outer gaiter has a soft and comfortable elasticated cuff with both zip and strap closures for failsafe reliability. The lower portion of the gaiter is insulated with encapsulated layers of triple Thinsulate™ and polyethylene and is reinforced with an extremely rip-resistant material in the high wear zones. A new synthetic rand material has been used which is lighter and warmer than rubber and won’t perish in the high U.V light conditions found at high altitude. The outer surface of the mid-layer boot is constructed entirely from lightweight synthetic textile and lined with a tough and waterproof/breathable Cordura reinforced laminate. Sandwiched between is a 6mm layer of EVA foam for excellent thermal insulation. Our new ‘Tanka’ lace closure system is simple, secure, and easy to manage while wearing gloves.
Boot Features
UPPERS: Composed of three layers: A fully integrated and highly insulated outer gaiter, mid-layer shell, and removable inner bootie
OUTER BOOT: Integrated outer gaiter is a waterproof and highly breathable material with a waterproof membrane and fully Thermo sealed seams. Reinforcement panels in extra durable and tear-resistant material. The lower portion of the gaiter insulated with Thinsulate and polyethylene layers. Premium quality waterproof TIZIP. Shell: One-piece lightweight Teramida with Lorica and neoprene. 6mm EVA foam insulation layer and Cordura waterproof breathable lining. 1.4mm neoprene insole for thermal insulation. Easy to use 'Tanka' lace closure system. Lightweight TPU rand for durability
INNER BOOT: Bootie made from very lightweight and extremely insulative triple layer laminate. A heat-reflective aluminum film is bonded to a durable polyurethane outer layer and insulative EVA foam on the internal side. Boreal Dry-Line® waterproof breathable lining with fully Thermo sealed seams. Triple Thinsulate® layers (no adhesives used) surround the foot guaranteeing maximum thermal protection with no cold spots. The sole of the bootie is covered with a durable textured TPU surface. Easy-adjust 'Tanka' and strap closure system with the adjustable fit around the instep area
MIDSOLE: Ultralight Boreal PBG-680 carbon composite midsole with lateral torsion control. Unique Thinsulate® lining for superior underfoot thermal insulation
SOLE: Vibram Betulla super lightweight and highly insulative outsole in special low-density EVA / rubber mix. Dual-density EVA and PU shock absorbing layers. Differential hardness TPU toe and heel pieces for automatic crampons
USAGE: Extremely cold conditions. High altitude mountaineering. 8000m peaks.
WEIGHT: 2610 grs./pair (size 7 UK)
Fitwell - GNARO 8000
The warmest and lightest boot of its kind made with the best materials currently available. Cordura® fabric with ceramic paste coat to capture UV rays and heating the hull. Gaiter lined and coupled with waterproof Event® membrane for water and wind resistance. Oblique polyurethane coated zipper, watertight closure, easy opening and closing with gloves. Rubber rand 1.6mm thickness, anti-wear and anti-scratch. Hull structure: inside Cordura® coupled with EVA and aluminum film with Velcro closure for the highest foot comfort. Multi-layer lightweight, thermal liner, aluminum lined, absorbent felt and thermal wadding. Anti-slip insole. Carbon insole coupled with a nanotech insole reaching the highest standards of lightness and insulation.
Boot Details:
UPPER: Cordura® + Superfabric®
GAITER LINING: Waterproof eVent® fabric
INNER SHELL: Cordura® + felt + alluminium
INNER BOOT: Primaloft® + felt + aluminum
INSOLE: Carbon alveolar + Aerogel®
SOLE: Vibram® Mulaz Evo + EVA
CRAMPON: Automatic C2 or C3
More details
Kailas - Everest Boots 8000M
Boot details:
Extremely wear-resistant and durable - Outer shell made of Dyneema® mesh, YKK Waterproof zip, puncture-resistant fabric and efoam mudguard Supremely warm and comfort - Inner boot made of PE insulation and thermo-reflective aluminum film and Graphene insulation that keeps you warm at -60℃dynamically. PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Aerogel at forefoot and toes can withstand a low temperature of -78℃.
Boot Features
Single/Double: Double
Weight: 1300g (size 42)
Gaiter: Wear-resistant Dyneema® mesh / efoam mudguard / puncture-resistant fabric / YKK Waterproof zip/ 3M reflective graphic
Outer boot: Bulletproof laces / QFS(Quick Fitting System)
Inner boot: Graphene insulation / PE insulation / Thermo-reflective aluminum film / Extremely durable TPU
Insole: 3 layers: anti-bacterial and anti-odor foam, non-woven polyester and thermo-reflective aluminum film PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Aerogel at forefoot and toes
Midsole: Lightweight and high-strength carbon fiber lasting board
Outsole: Vibram® ultralight outsole for alpine climbing. Completely crampon compatible.
Lacing system: Velcro closure, YKK zip, bulletproof laces
More details
Conclusion
Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With companies innovating and developing high-performing boots out there it is much safer for climbers now more than ever. We have listed some of the most famous ones to lesser-known brands which are still amazing boots. We cannot stress this enough but quality (highest) matters. You do not want to lose your toes or suffer from any frostbite incidents. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes.
Which mountaineering boots do you prefer and why did you choose that particular boot? Please comment below :)
Go. Take on your peak.
Live Your Story
When to climb Baruntse? (Spring or Autumn) - Namas Adventure
Are you wondering when the best time is to plan a Baruntse peak expedition in Nepal? Many climbers ask us this question. Based on our experience running expeditions and input from our experienced guides who regularly climb in the region, the best time for you to climb may depend on your personal preferences. Fortunately, Baruntse peak is suitable for climbing in both the spring and autumn seasons. In the following information, we will outline the conditions typically experienced during these seasons to help you decide which is the best fit for you.
Spring sees a lot more snow compared to autumn. After the winter and with ongoing spring showers, you can expect deep or fresh snow in the mountains. There appear to be more crevasse openings during the spring season. The fresh snow in the mountain definitely makes breaking the trail a lot harder (which the strong Sherpas are happy to do for you) and climbers can expect some weather-related disturbances on their planned summit window. Therefore, you should expect delays due to weather conditions. If you enjoy an extra challenge in high-altitude peak climbing, then spring expeditions might be for you. Spring definitely tests your patience, especially when things don't go according to plan and teams have to improvise a lot. That's why spring sees fewer climbers on other peaks (excluding Everest and Lhotse) compared to autumn. However, when spring does open up with a clear weather window, it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal.
Recorded Summits - There haven’t been any commercial expedition summits at Baruntse. (2005 - 2022). In 2021 Spring summit's success was recorded via a new route, alpine style by Marek Czech and Russian climbers.
Autumn is a popular time for climbers to attempt peaks in Nepal. The air is clean and crisp after the monsoon, and the snow on the Himalayan peaks has typically melted and settled compared to the deep, snowy conditions of spring. This makes climbing conditions more favorable. The autumn season begins in September and usually sees snowfall towards the end of November, with heavy falls expected as winter approaches. Baruntse also sees more teams attempting to climb during this period, although there are still fewer climbers compared to other famous expeditions like Ama Dablam or Manaslu.
Recorded Summits - Commercial expeditions have only been successful at Baruntse 7129M during the autumn season. (2006 - 2022). Namas team was able to successfully fix the ropes to the summit paving way for oncoming teams during the 2022 fall season.
Baruntse west col 5840M climb during Autumn season
Conclusion
No matter which season you prefer, climbing Baruntse and Mera is a challenging and rewarding experience. Spring offers deeper snow and more frequent showers, while autumn has less snow and stable, settled surfaces but shorter days. Both seasons offer a unique climbing experience and the opportunity to achieve a lifetime accomplishment.
Question.
Which season do you plan to climb Baruntse and Mera Peak? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.
We organize Baruntse with Mera peak expedition every year during autumn. Planning to climb Baruntse one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.
Lets, go take on Baruntse and other peaks around the world. Go. Live Your Story.
Everything you need to know about Himlung Himal 7126M climbing Expedition - Namas Adventure
Himlung Himal summit 7126M. Rikka 2022 Fall expedition.
Himlung Himal, standing at 7126 meters, is a popular and relatively safe choice for climbers looking to tackle a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. Located in the rain shadow region of mid-western Nepal, this mountain offers a semi-technical climbing route with fixed ropes available to help you reach the summit. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snow, with a steep, exposed ascent to the top. Sherpa guides from different groups often work together to set up the ropes on climbing days. If you're seeking a high-altitude climbing adventure or are looking to progress to 8000M peaks or difficult challenging peaks, Himlung Himal is a must-climb.
Overview:
Altitude: 7126M / 23,379ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate/Advanced
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: Late spring Mid April - May and September - October
Total no of days: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camp 1/2/ 3(Optional)
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Himlung Himal peak climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Himlung Himal?
Himlung Himal is best suited to climb during the mid-spring season around mid-April to May or during the early autumn season; just towards the end of the monsoon season. End of August to the end of October.
Note - Himlung is one of the remote climbing peaks with very few teams attempting the climb every year. You can be certain there won’t be many climbers or traffic during your expedition.
2. How much does the Himlung Himal expedition cost? What does it include?
Join the Namas Adventure team for a Himlung Himal expedition at a cost of $9050 per person. Our all-inclusive peak climbing services are of the highest quality and prioritize your safety with a 1:1 guide-client ratio, several successful summits, 100% safety records, and cultural immersion. As a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand, we are committed to our core values and ensuring that you can fully enjoy your climbing holiday without worrying about any logistics. With our team by your side, you can focus on the fun and adventure ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa Guide /client ratio
Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers (Assistants increase with the number of climbing team members )
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Annapurna Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried or meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options, etc)
Chocolate, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. What experience do climbers need to climb Himlung Himal? Are guides necessary for Himlung Himal climb?
Experiences - It is essential for climbers to have previous high-altitude alpine/mountaineering experience (at or above 3000 meters) in order to successfully climb Himlung or other 7000-meter peaks. While this experience does not necessarily need to be in Nepal, it is important for climbers to be comfortable using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, proficient in using fixed ropes to climb steep and exposed sections, and familiar with the use of climbing gear and basic rope techniques such as tying safety knots and abseiling. Mental toughness and the ability to withstand cold and windy conditions are also crucial for climbers attempting Himlung or other major expeditions in Nepal. The use of jumars and rappelling/abseiling skills will be necessary for descending the mountain, and it is important for climbers to have the strength and endurance to sustain these activities for an extended period of time.
Local Guides - According to Nepalese law, all climbers attempting peaks above 6000 meters must be accompanied by a guide. To obtain a permit for climbing Himlung Himal, it is necessary to go through a registered local company. For intermediate-level climbers, we strongly recommend hiring a guide for this peak due to the presence of crevasses and other potential hazards along the usual climbing route. However, if you are an experienced climber with many successful climbs under your belt, you may wish to explore less traveled routes. In this case, it is still a good idea to have a guide as a backup in case of unexpected challenges.
4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Himlung Himal Expedition?
Proper acclimatization is crucial for the success and safety of high-altitude climbing trips. It allows the body to rest, adapt, and become stronger, enabling you to reach even higher elevations. At Namas Adventure, we take a slow and steady approach to high-altitude climbing, with itineraries that have been carefully crafted through our years of experience. This ensures that you are well-prepared and able to fully enjoy your adventure.
On the Himlung Himal expedition, we have established 2-3 high-altitude camps to allow climbers sufficient time to acclimatize. This helps to ensure that you are properly adapted to the high altitude and able to successfully reach the summit. Our experienced guides will help you to monitor your progress and provide guidance and support throughout the trip to help you reach your goals.
More details are on our Himlung Himal climbing strategy.
5. What training is required for Himlung Himal? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Himlung Himal is a great mountain for anyone looking to tackle their first 7000-meter peak or a semi-technical, high-altitude expedition. It is known to be one of the easier and safer 7000-meter mountains, with a high success rate. However, it is important to note that no mountain peak is easy to climb and we do require interested climbers to have previous high-altitude experience (at or above 3000 meters) in order to participate. If you are seeking a challenging yet achievable climbing adventure, Himlung Himal may be the perfect mountain for you.
Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. It can be difficult to simulate the specific challenges you will face on the mountain, such as crossing crevasses, in your training. However, there are some general fitness activities that can help you to build endurance, strength, and core stability. These may include long-distance running (10K - 20K), long-distance hiking (6 hours+), cycling, and hiking with a weighted backpack. We recommend scheduling your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure to ensure that you are in peak physical condition. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
6. How hard is Himlung Himal climbing expedition?
Himlung Himal is graded at PD+ - AD/4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is imperative that climbers are in top physical condition before embarking on the Himlung Himal expedition. The climb will be physically and mentally demanding, with a total of 15 days of alpine climbing. Proper acclimatization, hydration, and nutrition are key to coping with the altitude and breathing challenges. The real alpine challenge begins when we depart from the base camp, also known as the French base camp, and encounter glaciers and ice surfaces on the climb. The route to the summit involves traversing some uphill, slippery sections, as well as traversing some crevasses. The campsites are located in wider sections of the mountain, reducing the risk of setting up camp on exposed cliffs. Fresh snow is also a possibility along the route. Proper training in endurance and strength should have prepared your body to handle these challenges.
7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Himlung Himal climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Himlung Himal climb?
The right gear is essential for a successful and comfortable climb. We recommend that climbers invest in high-quality gear and clothing, and pay attention to layering in order to stay warm in the cold temperatures that can drop as low as -10C/-20C at night. It is important not to skimp on quality, as you will be relying on your gear to keep you warm and comfortable during the climb. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Is it a good idea to rent climbing gear in Nepal? In our experience, we do not recommend it. We have tried various gear rentals in Nepal and have not been satisfied with the quality. While it may seem expensive to purchase all the necessary gear, it is worth the investment in the long run. You can also consider renting gear from reputable adventure gear companies in your own city. Gears of well-known adventure brands such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, or Kailas are recommended. Make sure to choose original products from trusted brands to ensure the best performance and safety on your climb.
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Himlung Himal
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. What types of foods are available during Himlung Himal climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
To ensure proper hydration, we recommend that all clients drink 4-6 liters of water per day. It is helpful to bring hydration tablets or filtration bottles. Obtaining water at higher camps can be difficult, so our team will do their best to boil snow and provide water at higher camps and during the summit push. Most meals are prepared in tea houses, and during climbing days, our Sherpa team sets up kitchen tents at the base camp. Sherpa guide members will cook quick meals at higher camps. While it can be difficult to eat enough in cold, high altitudes, it is important to try to force yourself to eat. We also provide packed dried meals as an alternative option.
It is important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the Ama Dablam expedition. While it may be common to see the guiding leaders engage in these activities, they are professionals who have adapted well to high-altitude environments. As a climber on this adventure holiday, it is important to prioritize your health and well-being by abstaining from these harmful habits. Remember to also pay attention to your diet and hydration, as these will greatly affect your performance on the mountain.
9. What trip insurance will I need for Himlung Himal climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval from your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts and a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Himlung Himal climbing
After completing your Himlung Himal climb we would like to recommend the following challenging expeditions
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Click here
Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.
3. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition
Himlung Himal climbing expedition is one of the remote trek and climbing destinations in Nepal. As we will be able to many more expeditions down the year we believe Himlung Himal Expedition can be one of the classic mountaineering adventures at 7000M level that will be accessible and climbable for upcoming climbers. The charm of its remote location tucked away in the not-so-popular area of Nepal, beautiful trek through the Annapurna valley and nomad culture makes the whole trip experience an amazing adventure. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Himlung climbing expedition. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you on board for our Himlung Himal expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Climb - Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition
10 important things to know about Ama Dablam climbing Expedition - Namas Adventure
Ama Dablam 6810M
Ama Dablam is known for its stunning beauty and is a highly sought-after mountain for mountaineering enthusiasts. It is considered a challenging climb on its own and is often viewed as a "must-do" for those who are interested in alpinism and mountaineering. Many people choose to tackle Ama Dablam either before or after attempting a larger expedition like climbing Mount Everest.
History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ama Dablam's expedition has been a dream for many mountaineers. Its Southwest ridgeline is the safest route to climb this amazing peak.
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Ama Dablam peak climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Ama Dablam?
Ama Dablam is best suited to climb during three climbing seasons.
Spring (Mid-April-May) - There are hardly any climbers during the spring season solely because major expedition companies are focused on the Everest expedition. Climbers seeking fewer teams and climbers on the route are recommended to climb during spring.
and Autumn (September - November) - Autumn attracts a lot of climbers. You can expect a lot of teams climbing from Mid October - November end. November - December is less busy but a tad colder compared to peak October expedition.
Early Winter (December - January) - Winter climbs are for the extra gritty challenge seekers. This is another best time of the year when there are very few climbers and the Everest trails are quieter. Winter officially begins on 21st December. As expected be ready to brace for crispy cold and an unexpected gust of wind.
Note - Ama Dablam is the 3rd most sought technical climbing peak in the Khumbu region, with the majority of the permits being issued during the autumn season.
Namas guide Kami at Summit of Ama Dablam. 2024 November
2. Climbing route and difficult sections, mountain grading of Ama Dablam climbing
All major commercial expeditions use the Southwest Ridge section route of the mountain. Ama Dablam expedition is graded at TD / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine / Fitness grading link).
Exposed section after Camp 2.
This expedition involves steep vertical mixed climbing on rock, ice, and snow. You must be in excellent physical and mental condition to tackle this challenging climb. Do not underestimate the difficulty of this mountain. Your previous climbing experience will help you gauge your fitness level and understand how to safely tackle the climb. With proper preparation and guidance from our team, you can achieve your dream of climbing Ama Dablam. The sheer vertical ascent of this mountain will likely be one of the toughest climbs you have ever attempted. However, the breathtaking beauty and exhilarating experience of reaching the summit make it all worth it. Are you ready to push yourself physically and mentally to reach the summit of Ama Dablam? It will surely be one of the most memorable peaks you ever climb."
Notable technical Sections at Ama Dablam climb.
Note - Your entire climb from camp 1 to the summit will be assisted by a fixed rope.
Climbing to Camp 2 “Yellow Tower”
Images by Jackson Groves / Journey Era
The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is one of the most technically challenging parts of the expedition. The climb to the top of Yellow tower involves a 90-degree vertical ascent. This section of the route is graded anywhere from 4.11 to 5.7 - 5.10 in rock climbing terms. It's important to consider the impact of altitude, carrying a backpack, cold weather, and ice conditions on the mountain while attempting this climb.
Mushroom Ridge 6250M (Between Camp 2 and Camp 3)
This section of the route is not for the faint-hearted, as you will need to carefully climb up and scramble on the steep rocky face of the mountain before reaching an exposed knife-edge ridge. Walk carefully across the ridge, which has 600-meter drops on both sides, before continuing your climb towards Camp 3.
3. How much does Ama Dablam expedition cost and what does it include?
The cost of the Ama Dablam and Island Peak expedition with Namas Adventure (Please click here for cost). Our team provides premium, all-inclusive services, including 1:1 climbing support, local guides who share their knowledge of culture and traditions, and a focus on safety, successful summit strategy, and top-quality base camp support. Our team is dedicated to being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure operator, so climbers can fully enjoy their climbing experience.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa Guide /client ratio.
Head chef and assistants ( Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members )
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
30 kgs personal weight
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/GPS
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
The arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. Are guides necessary for Ama Dablam Peak?
Climbing Ama Dablam requires a permit, which can only be obtained through a registered local company in Nepal. It is mandatory by Nepalese law to have a guide on high altitude peaks above 6,000 meters. We recommend hiring a guide for climbers of all levels, as a successful expedition requires a strong team with a proficient base camp crew and experienced, competent, and trustworthy climbing Sherpa guides.
5. Choosing the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Ama Dablam
Proper acclimatization is crucial for success on any high-altitude climbing expedition. Our team follows the "climb high, sleep low" mantra and will conduct rotations to Camp 1 and 2 as part of our acclimatization strategy. Through our years of experience, we have carefully crafted the itinerary to ensure the best possible chance of success for your expedition.
6. How difficult is it to climb Ama Dablam? What training and skills are required?
Ama Dablam, also known as the "mountaineer's mountain," is a challenging climb that requires experience and determination to reach the summit. The route from the base camp to Camp 1 (5800 meters) involves climbing moraines and a rocky boulder uphill. The fixed line normally starts after Camp 1, where the climb becomes more technical. The climb to Camp 2, located on top of the Yellow Tower, is the first crux of the climb, requiring a 60-70 foot vertical granite ascent at 20,000 feet. The mushroom ridge from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is another challenge, and Camp 3 is only set up once the guide leader determines it is safe. From Camp 3, climbers head up the pyramid to the summit, which involves an exposed climb on 55-65 degree slopes. The descent is difficult, especially on tired legs, and requires careful focus.
Training for Ama Dablam
To prepare for this challenging climb, it is important to focus on endurance, core, and strength training. This will help you to handle the vertical sections of the ascent, such as the "Yellow Tower" on the way to Camp 2. Suggested training activities include long-distance running, cycling, and hiking with added weight. It is recommended to begin training at least 12 weeks in advance of your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Skills
Additionally, taking advanced mountaineering classes can be helpful in learning technical skills like rope climbing and proper use of gear. For the Ama Dablam climb, it is recommended to be comfortable with multi-pitch climbs up to a grade of 5.10 a,b,c and to have experience with mixed climbing. Ice climbing skills up to WI-3 or WI-4 are recommended for spring climbs, although fixed-line ropes will be used for the steeper sections of the mountain.
You should be proficient with the above-mentioned mountaineering skills, climbing with ice axe support and abseiling independently in exposed mountain terrain. Be ready for a long descent when coming down from the summit. This is particularly where most of the incidents occur during this expedition. A few accidents did occur on this route when the climber did not properly attach the safety rope to the main fixed line when abseiling down the mountain.
Ama Dablam's climbing should not be taken lightly. By no means is the peak an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of several 4000M+ to 6000M+ technical climbing experience anywhere in the world. You have to be in your best physical fitness shape. All mountain expeditions are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. Successfully accomplishing the Ama Dablam expedition is a mixture of teams, skills, the right experiences, fitness, mental strength, weather, and other detailed mountain-climbing factors.
7. Right clothing, gear, and boots (trekking and mountaineering)? Rental options for Ama Dablam climbing?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gear and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10c /-20c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gear in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expense to buy all the gear, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Ama Dablam climb
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, and Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. Hydration and nutrition
To ensure proper hydration, we recommend that all clients drink 4-6 liters of water per day. It is helpful to bring hydration tablets or filtration bottles. Obtaining water at higher camps can be difficult, so our team will do their best to boil snow and provide water at higher camps and during the summit push. Most meals are prepared in tea houses, and during climbing days, our Sherpa team sets up kitchen tents. While it can be difficult to eat enough in cold, high altitudes, it is important to try to force yourself to eat. We also provide packed dried meals as an alternative option.
It is important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the Ama Dablam expedition. While it may be common to see the guiding leaders engage in these activities, they are professionals who have adapted well to high altitude environments. As a climber on this adventure holiday, it is important to prioritize your health and well-being by abstaining from these harmful habits. Remember to also pay attention to your diet and hydration, as these will greatly affect your performance on the mountain.
9. Insurance and Helicopter evacuation for Ama Dablam Expedition
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance coverage. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval from your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Ama Dablam climbing
It is only natural that as a climber, you would want to climb higher, more challenging peaks. Once you have successfully completed Ama Dablam, consider yourself one of the capable mountaineers. Climbers know that summiting Ama Dablam is no easy feat, so you should be able to take on even higher peaks, such as those over 8,000 meters, after this climb.
Mt. Everest Expedition 8848M
Everest Expedition - Image by Brad
Manaslu Expedition
Annapurna IV 7525M
Drone shot of Annapurna 4 expedition, camp 3 6550M
k2 8611m Expedition
K2 8611M
A successful Ama Dablam climbs with a strong yet fun environment expedition team, proper training, and planning before the expedition is possible. These are the things that are within your control. As we have stressed enough Ama Dablam climb is not an easy one and you will have to get every aspect right so that you have a better chance of completing your expeditions and have a great time. Join our fun-loving yet providing the best service and safety team on our yearly Ama Dablam Expedition. Our team would love to have you on board and make your dream of climbing Ama Dablam a success.
Ama Dablam Expedition - Click here
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.
Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Everything you need to know about Baruntse Peak climbing Expedition - Namas Adventure
Baruntse BC 5300M
Baruntse Peak 7129M is one of the accessible 7000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. Sitting just between the world’s highest peak Mt.Everest and Makalu, this expedition will give you a glimpse and scale of the surrounding 8000M+ mountain peaks. Most climbing is done via the southeast ridge, semi-technical in technicality where the guiding team will have fixed the rope all the way to the summit. During climbing days, local Sherpa guides leaders from several teams colloborate together to set up the ropes. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snowy surfaces with an exposed section past 6600M+ all the way to the summit. This is definitely a must climb for any climbers seeking high-altitude climbing adventure or progress to 8000M+.
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Baruntse peak climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Baruntse Peak?
Baruntse Peak is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Autumn (September - November).
Note - Mount Baruntse is one of the remote climbing peaks with very few teams attempting the climb every year. You can be certain there won’t be many climbers or traffic during your expedition.
2. How much does the Baruntse Peak expedition cost? What does it include?
Please visit our Baruntse page for the updated yearly costs [link]. With a 1:1 guide-client ratio, our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety, successful summit, enriching cultural experiences, and overall enjoyment of the trip. As a company, we uphold our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability in all our mountain adventure activities. With us, climbers can be confident that every detail is handled, allowing them to fully immerse themselves in their climbing holiday and the enjoyable experiences that await.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA or NNMGA certified Guide leader
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio
Helicopter flight back to Lukla from Baruntse BC after returning to BC
Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members )
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
30 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie talkie/ Satellite phone and GPS
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. What experience do climbers need to climb Baruntse? Are guides necessary for Baruntse Peak?
Experiences - Previous high altitude (3000M - 6000M+) alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mount Baruntse or other 7000M+ peaks. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience in hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Must be comfortable and proficient in using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, and basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains, and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Baruntse Peak climbing it will have to go through a registered local company. For intermediate experience level climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The usual climbing route does have a crevasse and there can be other danger points along the unexplored routes. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Baruntse?
Amphu Lhbatsa Pass 5840M (Namas Adventure)
Climbing up Amphu Lapcha pass will get our members warmed up with Jumaring and scramble/traverse the rocky section of the mountain. Gaining an altitude of 5840M will help climbers further acclimatize before we set off to Baruntse BC 5400M.
Mera Peak climbing (6,476 M) is another alternative to acclimatize and before we head onto Baruntse. The route itself is a very non-technical, steep climb on the ice and snowy surface. Mera mountain is classed as a trekking and climbing peak.
Over the years, we have learned to avoid using Mera Peak as our acclimatization peak because our climbers often become fatigued from the climb. This fatigue has led to difficulty in recovering fully, which affects their performance on the subsequent Baruntse expedition.
5. What training is required for Baruntse Peak? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Baruntse 7129M expedition, is by no means an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least (4000M - 6000M) climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse. We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights are some of the suggested training. We also advise clients to mix strength and muscle endurance training when climbing this peak. Kettlebell routines or cross-fit training are recommended. We advise you to schedule your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
6. How hard is Baruntse Peak climbing expedition?
Baruntse expedition is graded at AD+ \ 4 in difficulty. (Alpine / Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress it enough, but it is very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 15 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your fitness and awareness. Breathing is challenging but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well-hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Baruntse Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Baruntse Peak climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10c /-20c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gear in Nepal? You can hire these gear from our team in Nepal. (link)
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Baruntse Peak
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. What types of foods are available during Baruntse Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
9. What trip insurance will I need for Baruntse Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance coverage. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval from your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Baruntse peak climbing
We can make following recommendations
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Click here
Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.
3. Annapurna IV 7525M, Nepal
Annapurna IV camp 3 at 6500M
Baruntse Peak climbing expedition is one of the exciting mountain climbing expeditions in Nepal. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Baruntse Peak climbing expedition. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you on board for our Baruntse Peak Peak climbing trip. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
Climb - Baruntse 7129M with Mera Peak 6476M link
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.
Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.