Challenging perspectives: The roads of Nepal.
Roads and road ethics differ from nation to nation. Some countries have exceptional roads: even, smooth and tarmacked, alongside an extensive and efficient highway code. Other countries will be lacking drastically in both. Often their roads will be rudimentary and riddled with potholes and cavities. As for road ethics, you might as well tear up the highway code and forget everything that you have been taught so far.
Bhedetar , eastern Nepal | Photo by - Anand Lepcha
Nepal falls under the latter category. It is not a nation renowned for its even, smooth, tarmacked roads. Rather, the roads in Nepal regularly crop up in articles featuring the world's most dangerous roads; roads that you should think twice about, then thrice more before embarking on. And when it comes to road ethics, well let's just say things are done differently in Nepal.
But this does not mean that the roads in Nepal are untraversable, nor do the Nepalese disregard road safety and conduct. No the key word here is 'difference'. One cannot apply the same rules that works well in an even, smooth, tarmacked country to a country lacking in the basic fundamentals. Matters have to be addressed accordingly to the geography, the ethnography and the politics of each place. If things deviate from the norm, it is usually due to necessity. Fortunately humans are adept at making the most out of what they have, and it is usually in a country like Nepal, where many things are scarce, this is exemplified at its best.
To illustrate this here is an image of two men delivering a FRIDGE in a Rickshaw!
Whereas in countries where moving-vans can be found in abundance, scarcity offers these two men an alternative, no-nonsense solution.
Here is another example of a practical, no-nonsense solution to a problem caused by shortage.
Shortage Photo by csm
The shortage of fuel in Nepal means that people have to sit on top of buses. Every space, even the most minuscule is used up. It is the conductors' job to squeeze as many human bodies as possible inside, on top and even on the sides of buses. A stoic solution that benefits all: the driver and the conductor gain maximum profit, while for the passengers the fares are cheap and thankfully the stops are not too far apart. And this is not just limited to buses.
Jeeps:
Annapurna region | Photo by - Feing Wei
Micro-vans:
And motorcycles to name a few are all united in concord.
To a novice traveler visiting Nepal for the first time, these examples might cause a degree of discombobulation. But when you put them into context - lack of fuel - every idiosyncrasy will begin to make sense. Why would you not make the most of every inch, cm, mm when fuel is as scarce?
Of course not all roads in Nepal are underdeveloped. In the major cities of Nepal: Kathmandu, Pokhara and Dharan, there are many adequately constructed dual carriageways, which can provide a sense of form and order.
There are also some exceptionally well built roads outside the city.
Highway Nepal | Photo by - lian
But it will not be long, both in the city and the countryside, before you come across a road situation a little like this:
Photo by Aananda S
or this,
Driving in the city is also difficult because of the narrow congested roads. Here driver and pedestrian share the same road and there is no rule stating who should give way first. Drivers beep their horn until they are heard, while the pedestrians make way then return to the middle of the road completely unfazed and undeterred.
Thamel, Kathmandu | Photo by : Hassanein
Driving in the countryside is difficult for obvious reasons. The roads are under-developed; many roads are in poor dilapidated conditions, full of potholes, cracks and crevices. You will frequently find yourself being driven literally on the sides of half carved out mountains! (Don't look down). It takes both a strong head and a strong stomach to survive the eight to twelve hour journey from the city to the more rural areas of Nepal, where a lot of people still live.
Annapurna region| Photo by -Tantje
In many remote areas of Nepal, roads (for auto-motives) have yet to be built.
It is not uncommon for a journey to be brought to an abrupt stand-still due to the lack of roads either.
Annapurna circuit
Nevertheless, it is not the sorry state of the roads that is astonishing. But rather the fact that despite the atrocious conditions, nine out of ten times, the driver of the bus; the jeep; the motorbike, will safely deliver their passengers to their sought after destination.
One has to hand it to the drivers of Nepal. Whilst passengers are being sick in the back of buses; cars; and jeeps, their drivers will hasten across treacherous terrain, under terrible conditions, in vehicles that would probably fail every MOT test if they were ever to be assessed. These drivers are beyond fearless, and yet most of them won't even be aware of how dangerous their jobs are. Nor will they ever get credit for how many people they have helped and families they have reunited by choosing to undertake such formidable journeys daily. (There are unsung heroes in every corner of the world.)
So certainly the roads in Nepal are dangerous and road ethics can be found wanting. But these are an outsider's perception. To the native individual, a road in Nepal is simply a road; and every local driver is highly adept at beeping their mighty horn, whilst accelerating, decelerating and swerving pedestrians, animals and other unsuspecting objects. Therefore, do not see only what is lacking whilst travelling through countries like Nepal (of course a lot of things can benefit with a make-over or two; an investment here, an investment there; or a change in government). But rather marvel at how creatively, efficiently and marvellously the people have made the most out what they have.
Photo by - Feng Wei
It is not that any country is lacking, things are just done differently there. But to appreciate the difference, one has to first travel. Travel to Nepal today (I'm sure it is not just me who wishes to ride on top of buses and feel the wind caress my hair - whilst conserving fuel in the process).
Written by Dina Rai.
