Alternative routes to Everest Base Camp - Nepal
Alternative routes to Everest Base Camp - Nepal
EBC tour 2019
When it comes to Everest trails, the Everest base camp route is the one with the most adventurers from around the globe. In 2018 the region welcomed 57,000 travelers, which is only set to grow more and more in coming years. This is my third time visiting Everest base camp with my group and I can clearly see the trails getting busier every year. I get it, it is a bucket list for a lot of us, that is why we want to go there. Which I clearly admire and just seeing the mountains and taking up the challenge can be an inspiring adventure. But when it comes to the trails the busyness and the crowd is something you won’t be expecting, believe me especially if it is your first time. The great news is that there are alternative routes to go to Everest base camp apart from just the normal trekking route. The only trade-off is 4-6 additional trekking days in your itinerary but it will be totally worth it. You can avoid 70% of the crowd, will be more challenging than just Everest Base camp but more adventure for yourself.
(Click on image for more tour infos)
Gokyo with Everest Base Camp - 20 days
My first recommendation is the Gokyo trail with Everest base camp. Once we visit Everest base camp we break away from the rest of the group trails from Lobuche (Day 12). Taking you through Cho-la pass and then on to Gokyo valley. This trip sums up all the mesmerizing beauty of the Everest region. The Gokyo Lakes region at the head of the Dudh Koshi Valley provides a great alternative to the popular Everest Base Camp trek. It is a more tranquil trek through the Sherpa heartland that affords ample time for acclimatization with opportunities to savor mountain panoramas from our private permanent campsites. The highlight of the trek is our ascent of Gokyo Ri. From the summit, at over 5000m we gain superb views of Everest as well as the 8000m peaks of Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu in Tibet. Many trekkers will argue that this is one of the finest views in the Himalaya, with the awesome bulk of Everest dominating the skyline.
Three Passes Trek - 22 Days
Renjo la pass ( 5345M), Photo by- Tomislav Gracan
If you are up for a bit of a challenge crossing 3 passes in the Everest region, visiting the emerald Gokyo lake, and then finally arriving in Everest base camp then three passes are the right option for you.
The Three Passes Trek to Everest Base Camp is arguably one of the most challenging treks in the Everest region. The trek covers a lot of variation making a traverse between the three high passes, that is how it’s named – Renjo La, Cho La, and Kongma La – each over 5,000m. The trek begins at the famous Lukla and then heading towards the famous Namche Bazaar. Here, the route splits from the main trek and heads up the Dudh Koshi valley, where you will encounter the first of the Three Passes – Renjo La (5,370m). After reaching the high point, the trail descends to the turquoise Gokyo Lakes and further on to the village of Gokyo.
I hope this article helps you in making an informed choice about visiting the Everest region and you can make alternate plans when visiting the Everest base camp. There is no way to escape the crowd during the trekking season but the alternatives routes take you on a different trail that exposes you to other gems of Everest trekking tails, which 80% of the crowd visiting won’t be attempting.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Things to do In Pokhara
Heaven on Earth, City of Pokhara
Pokhara is a remarkable place of natural beauty. Situated at an altitude of 827m from the sea level and 200km west of Kathmandu valley, the city is known as a center of adventure. This enchanting city has several beautiful lakes and offers stunning panaromic views of Himalayan peaks. The serenity of lakes and the magnificence of the Himalayas rising behind them create an ambience of peace and magic. So today the city has not only become the starting point for most popular trekking and rafting destinations but also a place to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature.
Pokhara is part of a once vibrant trade route extending between India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen camped on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote regions of the Himalaya. This is the land of Gurungs and Magars, hardworking farmers and valorous warriors who have earned worldwide fame as Gurkha soldiers. The Thakalis, another important ethnic group here, are known for their entrepreneurship.
Getting here
Domestic Flights - 30 - 45 Min flight time from Kathmandu domestic airport.
Ground Transport - 6 hours of scenic ride by passing smaller busy towns. There’s a good chance you might be stuck at a traffic in Thankot just before passing the hills of Kathmandu. It might be 4-5 hours our waiting time.
Phewa lake
Phewa lake, the second largest lake in the kingdom, roughly measuring 1.5 km by 4 km, is the center of all attractions in Pokhara. The enchanting lake is an idyllic playground. Brightly painted wooden boats and sailboats can be rented on reasonable cost around lakeside.
The lake is neither deep (roughly 47 meters at most) nor particulary clean, but the water is warm and swimming is pleasant if you don't think about the probable pollution.
The eastern shoreline of the lake, popularly known as Lakeside or Baidam, consists of seemingly endless strip of lodges, restaurants, bookshops and souvenir shops. One of the fascinating parts of lakeside is the splendid view of the mountains, especially when the still water reflects the peaks, creating a double image.
Paragliding, Zip wire and Bungee Jumping
Several paragliding operators can be found in Lakeside. The rates is USD 120 maximum for foreigner, USD 90 maximum for Indian national and USD 70 maximum for Nepalese during the season time. During off season it could go down to 60 USD for foreigners.
Highground adventure operates zipwire and bungee. Combo price $120.
Avia Ultra Flights
It is a unique type of mountain flight experience only found in Pokhara. Prices are details can be found in the Avia club’s website. More infos in: https://aviaclubnepal.com/
Hot air Balloon ride
Hot air balloon services resumed again from 2018 with sole operator Balloon Nepal currently in Pokhara only. Price rates ranges from USD $90 thetered flights, free flight for 30 minutes USD $120 and Magical Voyage experience, 1 hour flight USD $160.
NightLife and Entertainment
Lakeside is famous for its tourist lifestyle. Pokhara is very welcoming to touristic lifestyle and live band performances are usually open until late 2 - 3 am in the night especially for tourist. Great food and great people. Lakeside holds range of hotels, restaurants, bars, music live band venues and clubs. Places recommended Busy bee, Altitude restaurant, Irish Bar and many more can be found on the street of Lakeside.
Food and Culture
Pokhara shares distinctly different food than Kathmandu. Pokharalies as the local define themselves have almost similar yet different food and culture than the capital. Which makes it unique on its own way. Pokhara offers various types of foods. Wester, Asian, and Nepalese.
Short Trek trips to Near villages from Pokhara City
Most of the Annapurna region trek begins from Pokhara but if you would like 2-3 tailored trips we can recommend various trip packages. i.e. Mardi Himal trek and Poon Hill trek is the most famous taking you closer to the mountains and other 1 day treks such as Dhampus or Lwang 1 day trek.
Other attraction in Pokhara - David's fall, Bat Cave, Villages, Power House, Pokhara Museum, Sarangkot for Pokhara View and World Peace Pagoda and many more.
15 Important things to know about Everest Base Camp
15 IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT
EVEREST BASE CAMP
Everest Base Camp 5340M
Climbing Everest Base Camp has been an iconic destination for many adventure travelers. I have had the luxury of traveling to Everest base camp since it was on my dream adventure list before heading into higher mountains. Through my experience of trekking solo and other times guiding with fellow Sherpa leaders, I want to share some valuable tips that will make your trip easier.
Tips are in no particular order, they are just written down as I learned them through my experience.
1. Bring cash USD and Rupees
If you have booked your tour with a travel/tour agencies then all your necessary expenses are covered. But you would want to bring in extra cash just in case you want to buy anything that is not included in your package (ie alcohol, chocolate, or energy bars). If you are traveling solo then Nepalese rupees is a must, I would recommend around (Rs 1 Lakh 50 thousand or $1500). You want to make sure you have enough cash to tip your guides and porters and for any unplanned events.
2. Get insurance
Buying normal travel insurance and travel insurance for Everest base camp is hugely different. You will be standing at 5,644.5 m (18,519 ft) above sea level and on top of that, you are traveling to one of the most remote and rugged regions on Earth. There is no vehicle roads there so the only option is helicopter evacuation or the other option is a painful Dzo/mule ride down the terrains. High altitude-related illness, accidents, diarrhea, cough, and natural disasters like avalanches and rockfalls, are expected while trekking in Everest Base Camp. My best suggestion is to get the travel insurance that covers helicopter evacuation, repatriation, and independent trekking (if you are going solo) up to 6000 m (18,510 ft) and higher if you are doing side trips to Mt Lobuche, Mera, or Island Peak. It is very important to spend some time going over terms and conditions that could ease the process should you need to claim it back.
3. Flight to Lukla and buffer days ( Very important )
Weather conditions in the Himalayas can change rapidly and aviation schedules are not as reliable as you might expect. The flight between Kathmandu and Lukla where the Everest Base Camp trek starts is frequently delayed and maybe canceled for the day or several days in succession. In the event your flight is canceled you will need to either rebook your flight for the following day or attempt to get you on a chartered helicopter. You are responsible for the extra costs of helicopter flights which might be $250 - $400 per person or more. If you end up taking a helicopter instead of your flight you can ask for a refund of $150 of the flight fare. A similar case applies when you want to return from Lukla to Kathmandu. If you have booked your trip with travel/tour agencies like ours then the reps from the company should give you these options and take care of the refund amounts.
This happened to me when I was at Lukla, waiting for my flights back to Kathmandu. Flights were canceled due to poor weather. Some people were stuck in Lukla for 2 days waiting with no way out. If they had to fly the next day home, they would have missed their flight. So we chartered the helicopter to get back to Kathmandu.
Best seat - Sit at either the front or back of the plane on the left-hand side when flying to Lukla for best views. The Himalayas are on the left and the front and back are not obscured by the wings of the plane. Sit here for your first glimpse of Mount Everest before your trek. It will help to build excitement and the view is awe-inspiring.
4. Buy the right gear. ( Do not compromise on quality gears)
I highly suggest you buy the right clothing and gear before coming to Nepal. But even if you forget or wish you do not want to carry all those loads all the way then everything you could possibly need to climb to Everest Base Camp is available in Nepal. If you need it or forgot it, you can get it in Kathmandu. Check out our gear checklist blog.
5. Filtered water bottle
I cannot stress enough the importance of a filtered water bottle when coming to Nepal. You do not want to be buying plastic water bottles every time so instead, use bottles like (Life-straw or similar brands) which I find it is a lifesaver where ever I go in Nepal. Save the environment by not using plastic bottles and save money by using water from natural sources.
6. Pack a map and books to read
You will want to reference regularly, check altitude symptoms, illnesses, your route, and what to expect. Trekking to base camp takes several days and it can get a little boring at times. You may only have the energy to lay in bed and read a book, so bring a good one. You can buy books in Kathmandu and at Namche Bazaar.
7. Hand-wipes and sanitizer.
Showering is really not recommended in high altitude cold temperatures. You won't be showering much. Nobody does on Everest after their fifth day of the trek or until their 11th day. Showers are not very appealing at -10 degrees Celcius and you won’t be getting proper shower facilities after Namche Bazaar. Hand wipes and hand sanitizer are lifesavers, keeps you clean and smelling fresh.
8. Give ways to Yaks and Sherpa's at all times and traffic on trails
When trekking a yak train comes, move to the mountainside to get out of the way. You don't want to be nudged off a cliff by a yak or get hit by one. Sherpa's and porters work hard on the Everest trail, they are constantly taking supplies up and down the mountain. Help make their life easier by staying out of their way.
Everest trail is one of the most famous trails in Nepal and during the peak season the region welcomes around 15 - 20 thousand travelers. So you should expect a bit of traffic and don’t be surprised by so many travelers. The busiest month is April as it is the only time for mountain expeditions so a lot of mountain climbers will be heading up the route and October is another busiest month. So, if you want to avoid traffic plan your trek around early March, September, or towards November and December.
9. Keep batteries close to your body.
Sleep with them in your sleeping bags. Charging batteries is very expensive per hour (almost $5 per hour) The cold drains batteries quickly, extends their life by keeping them warm. Charges for batteries near or below Namche Bazaar 100-150 NPR/hour – Closer to Base Camp 300 NPR/hour
10. Everest viewpoints
Mount Everest, Nuptse, Ama Dablam seen in background
Everest is only visible from a few points during the Everest Base Camp trek. On your acclimatization day at Namche make sure you take the acclimatization hike to Everest view point hotel for an amazing panoramic view of Everest and other Himalayan ranges. Tengboche is another site from where the tip of Everest will be visible and the finally the mighty walk to Kalapatthar where the long stretch of Everest and Himalayas are right in front of you. Hike early and take your photos in the early hours for your memories to last forever.
11. Rewards yourself give yourself a few days after the trek before you have to fly home.
After you have walked all that way, you might as well encourage and reward yourself. After my Everest Base Camp trek, I stayed in a beautiful, cozy Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel with a hot shower, super comfy bed, massage, and a moment to myself. It added a sense of fulfillment, happy energy, excitement to see more, reflect, and added encouragement to explore higher mountains. I feel it is important to encourage and motivate yourself to do the things you want to do and once you accomplish it, reward and enjoy yourself. The entire journey of the Everest base camp trail is an experience in itself. There is something to admire about every turn. The regions monasteries, cultivated fields, grazing yaks, hot momos, Dal Bhat overlooking stunning mountains, the experience of trekking the rugged terrains with giant mountains, the view from Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar, smiles of the locals, to fellow trekkers. Slow down every now and again to look around and take in the giant mountains, gorge, river, shops, homes, and life that all happens right along the path. There is nowhere else in the world like it.
12. Respect local culture
During trekking, you are exposed to new cultures and traditions. A lot of the way of doing things won’t be your way of doing so go with an open mind. When trekking Prayer rocks, walls and flags are meant to be kept to the right at all times. Also, ask before taking any photographs, many people do not want their photos taken.
13. Back to basics
I would highly suggest not to rely on WIFI or internet connections. Firstly wifi connection is very slow after Tengboche and expensive. 500 MB costs Rs 500 ($5) which to my experience is just not worth it. The other thing to keep in mind is that charging your phone will also cost you and the prices increases, the higher you go the higher the prices. So, staying out of touch with the post of the world and just living the experiences and not worrying about anything would be the best way to enjoy the trek. You may have the urge to share everything in that moment but this is the perfect moment to be in nature and allow yourself a digital detox, which is healthy for your mind and body.
14. Physically demanding than you think.
The terrains of the Everest region is raw and rugged. Reaching the lap of Mount Everest, the highest peak on Earth, is not easy but definitely doable with the right training preparations and will. Read our blog post on training for trekking in Nepal. It isn't recommended if you have knee problems or weak ankles because of steep ascents and descents, rocky paths, a lot of rock steps, and some moraine walking. Plus, people carrying significant extra weight are likely to struggle with this trek at altitude.
15. Prepare for altitude sickness.
Make sure you take the acclimatization rest day and the acclimatization hike day. There are fewer ways to prepare yourself for high altitude, so the rest days in your itineraries are a must. Please read our blog post on altitude sickness.
I hope the pointer listed above will help you when preparing for your Everest base camp trek. You have made one of the best decisions and you will not be disappointed, that I can promise. Stay healthy and fit. Enjoy your adventure and take lots of pictures. This will be a memory for a lifetime. Who knows you might be inspired to go higher and go on other challenging adventures.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Trekking in Nepal gear list
You have plans to go trekking in Nepal and wondering what are the right gears to pack for the rugged terrains in the Himalayas. Packing the right gear is crucial to successfully completing your adventures in high altitude landscapes of Nepal. We have listed some of the necessary gears to take on any trekking you undertake in the mountains. Trekking such as Everest base camp, Upper Mustang, Annapurna circuit or even short ones like Mardi Himal trek or Poon hill trek requires the right gears.
Trekking Equipment checklist
Footwears
* Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
* Gaiters
* Midweight thermal socks: 5 pairs
* Liner socks or equivalent: 2 pairs
Body Layers
* 1 merino base layers: top / bottom set
* Quick-dry sports bra (for women)
* 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
* Lightweight waterproof/breathable rain pants
* Convertible hiking pants
* Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
* Midweight down or synthetic parka with hood
* Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
* Insulated Down Jacket
* Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
* Wool hat (ski hat)
* Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
* Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
* Under helmet Balaclava
* Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
* Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
* Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
* Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
* 20-30L Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
* Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -10 to -20C. Goose down or synthetic
* Compression stuff sacks: 2 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
* Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
* Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
* Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
* Lip balm with sunblock
* Water bottles: 1 wide mouth bottles with 1L capacity
* Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
* Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitiser and small towel
* Hand warmers & toe warmers
* Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
* Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
* Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
* Travel Clothes
Duffel bags (1) with locks
* Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
Cell phone in waterproof case
Cell phone charging cable
Local SIM card for cell phone (purchase in Nepal)
Portable power device (for recharging phone or other electronics)
* Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
* Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
Toothbrush (travel size)
Toothpaste (travel size)
Toilet paper
Personal wipes
Women’s hygiene items
Pee bottle
Hand sanitizer
Shampoo and conditioner
Biodegradable soap
Deodorant
Dental floss
Razor and shaving cream
Skin lotion
* Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*
Companies recommended
Trekking Boots - La Sportiva, Northface, Patagonia, Mammut
Body Layers - Northface, Mountain hardware, Mammut, Patagonia, Arctyrex, Marmot, Rab
Headgear and hand wear - Northface, Mountain hardware, Patagonia, Mammut
Glasses - Julbo
Other gear companies: Exped, Garmin, Goal zero, Bio lite, MSR Gears
P.s- You can hire a lot of these items in Kathmandu (Thamel), if you do not wish to buy them.
Nepal under £1000 | $1500
Pic - Benjamin / everest region
Planning your Nepal adventurers this 2018 and you are wondering what can you do under £1000 in the culturally rich mountainous country? We narrow our all-inclusive and activity tours that can be done under your £1K ( $1450 or €1150 ) budget and it is not just the one type of adventure (i.e. trekking ). Nepal does not compromise the essence of adventure whether you are there for 1 week or plus. Below are some adventures listed.
Everest Base Camp (5380 M)
Price £990, 14 days
Yes it's true, Everest base camp the most well known can be experienced just at £990. When ever travelers think of Nepal, Everest base camp is the first thing which comes the mind. No, you are not climbing the mountain but rather just reaching the base camp, which is at 5380 M ( 17,600 ft) high. Yes, the most famous bucket list adventure is just got more afforadble!
We have set departures to Everest base camp, ( click here ) more infos.
Annapurna Base Camp (4310 M),
Price £720, 12 Days
The most famous trek after Everest base camp. This trek is vastly different from Everest region considering the landscapes, culture, heritage and the Himalayas. Annapurna is one of the most varied trek in Nepal from arid-desert land to hot springs. Travelers go through the villages which are mostly resided by the Gurung tribes, compared to Everest region which is mostly occupied by Sherpa tribes of Nepal.
We have set departures to Annapurna base camp, ( click here ) more infos.
Mardi Himal trekking (4500 M),
Price £750, 11 Days
Mardi Himal is one for the adventurers who seeks something new. This trek site is slowly gaining attention from adventure seekers. If you are one looking for off the beaten trek route, this is be your option until it gets will surely get the massive influx of adventurers.
To enquire about Mardi Himal trek please email us at namas@namasadventure.com ( Minimum 2 bookings required)
Poonhill trekking (3210 M)
Price £650, 8 Days
Poonhill is considered the most luxurious trekking site of Nepal. It is the shortest and quickest trek sites which takes adventurers closest to the Western Himalayas of Nepal. One highlight is the 3000 steps from Tirkhedhunga to Ulleri, and of course the final day Poonhill itself for panoramic view of western Himalayas of Nepal.
To inquire about Poonhill trek please email us at namas@namasadventure.com (Minimum 2 bookings required)
Motocross Adventure, Hills of Kathmandu.
Price £ 999, 6 Days
This one is for the riders and frankly it is also a unique introduction to the biking terrains of Nepalese hills. Motocross adventure itineraries are considered amongst the most extreme in Nepal. Nagarkot and Shivapuri still gives you the thrill of dirt bike adventure, which we recommend for beginners to moderate experienced riders. While a fairly new development for tourist adventurers, Nepalese people tend to always explore as bike riders rather than 4 wheel drivers.
To inquire about Motocross Adventure, please email us at namas@namasadventure.com (Minimum 5 bookings required)
Mountain Biking Nagarkot,
Price £ 145, 2 Days 1 Night
This Nagorkot tour is for the adventurers interested in culture, sightseeing and mountain views but also enjoy their cycling. Nagarkot is famous for is wide-ranging views of the Himalaya from Annapurna in the west to Everest it the east. From Kathmandu you ride along the flat river valley behind Thimi, through a series of back alleys and walking tracks. Once in the ancient town of Sankhu, we climb up from around 13 km on a mix of dirt road and jeep road to Nagarkot.
We have set departures to Nagarkot MTB everyday, (click here) more infos. Minimum of 2 bookings required.
Yoga Rafting
Price £ 950 | 11 Days
Yoga rafting is a new concept and the customer satisfaction has been overwhelming. Nepal being a very spiritual country, Yoga is an activity that has been integrated into trekking and now in rafting activities. Your day starts with an early sunrise yoga session that warms up the body and prepares us for a day of paddling on the beautiful river, whilst immersed in the most beautiful scenery. Practicing sun salutations with the rays of the Himalayan sun on your face will awaken your body as well as your spirit. This rafting trip is at grade II river and is beginner-friendly. This trip focuses on your body, mind and soul's health, wellbeing and awakening.
This is an exclusive tour and our teams only runs it few times in a year. For more information about the trip ( click here ) .
Rafting, Canyoning and Kayaking
Price £ 250, 3 Days
Nepal is considered to be one of the largest source in fresh water relative to the land mass base. You can guess where the waters mostly come from, of course the great Himalayas! The condition is perfect for river based adventures. Rafting and Kayaking in the rivers of Nepal has always been there, but hasn't gained its fair share of attention amongst adventurers as trekking. Maybe we are pushing it but this one is for the adventure thrill seekers.
We have set departures for Rafting, Canyoning and Kayaking everyday, (click here) more infos. Minimum of 2 bookings required.
Bungee jump, Canyoning or rafting
Price £ 210, 2 Days 1 Night
Consider the hills and the hanging bridges of Nepal and its height. All in all, Nepal has the perfect condition for the crazy adventure seekers. Currently there are only 2 bungee sites in Nepal with Last Resort being the 2nd highest in the world. This one is for the one who dares and seeks the thrill of height and jumps. Maybe it is never too late to give it a try.
To inquire about bungee, canyoning or rafting, please email us at namas@namasadventure.com . Minimum of 2 bookings required .
Ready to adventure travel Nepal this year !? Our team is here to answer all your adventure calls, lets talk adventure.
Written by - Bisesh Gurung (Founder)
Take any road today (the world is already yours).
Photo by Rabin Rana
It matters not where you go, what path you take, or how you get there. It matters only that you are going. Every road is a thoroughfare, which connects one to the other; the other to the future. The future to the past. Take one today and you shall be following the footsteps of the millions that went before you, as you too shall be followed soon after by the millions yet to come.
Because, you see, life does not ever really change that much. A thousand years ago, life was trying to survive. And the fact that you are here today, means that it was successful. You are therefore, its success story. But what we do, is not any different. We are still only trying to survive.
Thus, whether you are pragmatic, romantic, or irrational; your approach to life head on, or slightly hesitant – your existence remains an accumulation of everything that has already happened, and everything that has yet to happen. You are the driver inside the vehicle; you are the passenger in the back seat; you are the tarmac that ensures your smooth ride; the trees, and the sun.
Therefore, go! Take off now, and go where you must, but never forget that every thing you are bound to encounter is already a part of you. And the beauty of every sunset that always tends to take your breath away, is only your reflection. And hers. And his. And theirs.
By Dina Rai
Challenging perspectives: The roads of Nepal.
Roads and road ethics differ from nation to nation. Some countries have exceptional roads: even, smooth and tarmacked, alongside an extensive and efficient highway code. Other countries will be lacking drastically in both. Often their roads will be rudimentary and riddled with potholes and cavities. As for road ethics, you might as well tear up the highway code and forget everything that you have been taught so far.
Bhedetar , eastern Nepal | Photo by - Anand Lepcha
Nepal falls under the latter category. It is not a nation renowned for its even, smooth, tarmacked roads. Rather, the roads in Nepal regularly crop up in articles featuring the world's most dangerous roads; roads that you should think twice about, then thrice more before embarking on. And when it comes to road ethics, well let's just say things are done differently in Nepal.
But this does not mean that the roads in Nepal are untraversable, nor do the Nepalese disregard road safety and conduct. No the key word here is 'difference'. One cannot apply the same rules that works well in an even, smooth, tarmacked country to a country lacking in the basic fundamentals. Matters have to be addressed accordingly to the geography, the ethnography and the politics of each place. If things deviate from the norm, it is usually due to necessity. Fortunately humans are adept at making the most out of what they have, and it is usually in a country like Nepal, where many things are scarce, this is exemplified at its best.
To illustrate this here is an image of two men delivering a FRIDGE in a Rickshaw!
Whereas in countries where moving-vans can be found in abundance, scarcity offers these two men an alternative, no-nonsense solution.
Here is another example of a practical, no-nonsense solution to a problem caused by shortage.
Shortage Photo by csm
The shortage of fuel in Nepal means that people have to sit on top of buses. Every space, even the most minuscule is used up. It is the conductors' job to squeeze as many human bodies as possible inside, on top and even on the sides of buses. A stoic solution that benefits all: the driver and the conductor gain maximum profit, while for the passengers the fares are cheap and thankfully the stops are not too far apart. And this is not just limited to buses.
Jeeps:
Annapurna region | Photo by - Feing Wei
Micro-vans:
And motorcycles to name a few are all united in concord.
To a novice traveler visiting Nepal for the first time, these examples might cause a degree of discombobulation. But when you put them into context - lack of fuel - every idiosyncrasy will begin to make sense. Why would you not make the most of every inch, cm, mm when fuel is as scarce?
Of course not all roads in Nepal are underdeveloped. In the major cities of Nepal: Kathmandu, Pokhara and Dharan, there are many adequately constructed dual carriageways, which can provide a sense of form and order.
There are also some exceptionally well built roads outside the city.
Highway Nepal | Photo by - lian
But it will not be long, both in the city and the countryside, before you come across a road situation a little like this:
Photo by Aananda S
or this,
Driving in the city is also difficult because of the narrow congested roads. Here driver and pedestrian share the same road and there is no rule stating who should give way first. Drivers beep their horn until they are heard, while the pedestrians make way then return to the middle of the road completely unfazed and undeterred.
Thamel, Kathmandu | Photo by : Hassanein
Driving in the countryside is difficult for obvious reasons. The roads are under-developed; many roads are in poor dilapidated conditions, full of potholes, cracks and crevices. You will frequently find yourself being driven literally on the sides of half carved out mountains! (Don't look down). It takes both a strong head and a strong stomach to survive the eight to twelve hour journey from the city to the more rural areas of Nepal, where a lot of people still live.
Annapurna region| Photo by -Tantje
In many remote areas of Nepal, roads (for auto-motives) have yet to be built.
It is not uncommon for a journey to be brought to an abrupt stand-still due to the lack of roads either.
Annapurna circuit
Nevertheless, it is not the sorry state of the roads that is astonishing. But rather the fact that despite the atrocious conditions, nine out of ten times, the driver of the bus; the jeep; the motorbike, will safely deliver their passengers to their sought after destination.
One has to hand it to the drivers of Nepal. Whilst passengers are being sick in the back of buses; cars; and jeeps, their drivers will hasten across treacherous terrain, under terrible conditions, in vehicles that would probably fail every MOT test if they were ever to be assessed. These drivers are beyond fearless, and yet most of them won't even be aware of how dangerous their jobs are. Nor will they ever get credit for how many people they have helped and families they have reunited by choosing to undertake such formidable journeys daily. (There are unsung heroes in every corner of the world.)
So certainly the roads in Nepal are dangerous and road ethics can be found wanting. But these are an outsider's perception. To the native individual, a road in Nepal is simply a road; and every local driver is highly adept at beeping their mighty horn, whilst accelerating, decelerating and swerving pedestrians, animals and other unsuspecting objects. Therefore, do not see only what is lacking whilst travelling through countries like Nepal (of course a lot of things can benefit with a make-over or two; an investment here, an investment there; or a change in government). But rather marvel at how creatively, efficiently and marvellously the people have made the most out what they have.
Photo by - Feng Wei
It is not that any country is lacking, things are just done differently there. But to appreciate the difference, one has to first travel. Travel to Nepal today (I'm sure it is not just me who wishes to ride on top of buses and feel the wind caress my hair - whilst conserving fuel in the process).
Written by Dina Rai.
Momo: A nationwide favourite
MOMO
One cannot visit Nepal without enjoying several plates of Momo. No. One cannot, and one should not. Visiting Nepal without sampling Momo is like returning from the beach without dipping your feet, then your entire body, into the ocean. It is just not done.
Momo is arguably the most popular dish among the Nepalese folks. It is a dish that can make the entire nation literally salivate at its mere thought. Here are several reasons why:
First, it is simple to prepare. Momo is essentially a type of steamed bun. The doughy exterior is made by mixing flour and water together. The filling is usually a mixture of ground/minced meat, spices and vegetables. Put the two together and voila you have MOMO!
Second, Momo is a fairly experimental and practical dish. There are no fixed ingredients, which means people from all over the world can pick and mix accordingly to the local produce available to them. Consequently, ever since the Newar merchants brought the recipe and the name 'Momo' from Tibet, its native land, to Nepal and modified the type of meat and seasoning of the dish with local ingredients, a variety of Momos have been improvised to suit the taste buds of even the most pickiest of all eaters.
Some of the most popular types of Momo's are:
Steamed Momo
Kothey Momo: half steamed, half fried
C-Momo, otherwise known as Chilli Momo (the name should give away the modified ingredients):
Fried Momo (either deep fried, or steamed first then fried):
Jhol Momo (jhol meaning a thick soupy base, usually spicy):
Open Momo (perfect to mix and match your chutney/sauce/condiments by filling in each open pocket with something different)
Buckwheat Momo (for the health conscious)
Paneer/Cheese Momo (vegetarian option, or you can just make a vegetarian filling)
Green Momo (the dough is mixed with spinach - for those who prefer to be deceived whilst consuming their greens)
The choices are endless. Therefore, if you ever find yourself making Momo at home, feel free to personalize. If you want to add eggs into the mixture, add it! Hot banana ketchup or a Samphire, add it! The world of Momo does not discriminate.
But won't too much experimenting (adding Marmite for example) spoil the broth? Good question. And the answer is: it might, especially if you add Marmite (but you never know until you try). Nevertheless, the appeal of Momo is more than just its taste (which is just heavenly by the way). For many, especially Nepali people who have grown up alongside the dish, Momo is also a food of habit, of memory, and somewhat of a legacy passed down from one generation to another (like what Kimchi is to the South Koreans).
Correspondingly, the third reason Momo is a national favourite can be pinned down to its level of availability. Wander through the streets of any part of Nepal and you are bound to come across a little cafe, a restaurant, or a make-shift little stand selling Momo. Wander into the houses and one out of five houses will surely be either making Momo, or will have frozen Momo in their fridges. Momo in Nepal is as routine as brushing your teeth. Often ordering Momo at a cafe or a restaurant will be automatic; it is a food you order guided by your instinct rather than by thought.
Making Momo is also, although slightly lengthy, a family and friendship affair. Because the process is so simple, it is common for families and friendship groups to gather together and spend half the day catching up and reminiscing whilst making Momo.
It is the best comfort food, but it is also the best party food; the best food to have when it's raining; when the sun is out; when your mood is low; when you are craving but you don't know what for. Momo's rate of satisfaction is so high (the taste, the taste is just to die for) that even when you know what you're craving, if offered Momo, you will opt for Momo.
It is this versatile and accommodating element that makes Momo popular, and also the fourth and final reason in this attempt to explain why Momo is a national favorite. Momo is not just a food you eat. All the moments you spend in between, whether with your friends or your family, whether you are spending a whole day catching up or meeting for a quick bite, is a memory. All the conversations and the laughter make up the Momo experience. And if it's a good memory, which it usually is if Momo is involved, then it is only natural for us to want to replicate and re-live the memory again, and again, and again - individually and nationwide.
Do we live to eat, or eat to live? Why not try some Momo today and find out one of the many pleasures of being alive.
Written by Dina Rai.