Baruntse 7129M expedition, 2021 Mountain status updates - Namas Adventure
2021 Autumn Baruntse Expedition. Client member heading to Camp 1 via West col.
2021 wasn’t the year to be for any teams to successfully complete Baruntse Expedition. We had small team expeditions both during Spring and Autumn this year (2021).
Spring was a big risk with uncertainty around COVID 19. Still, we managed to get a small team of 3 members and after summiting Mera Peak, our team had settled at Baruntse Base camp 5460M and was preparing for our climb to camp 1. Soon enough our team and other teams, who have been together with us since Mera Peak learned that the person we came in contact with (a day before Mera peak climb) was evacuated to Kathmandu and tested positive for COVID. After learning this most of the teams decided to call off their expedition, since all the guide members and had been in contact with the sick person’s guiding team members, and any illness and evacuations at 6100M+ or around camp 1 and beyond would have been devastating.
Autumn, our team arrived up to camp 2 at 6400M but could not proceed further as we had a very unexpected storm and heavy snowfall (4ft - 5ft deep) for 4-5 days, our guides could not go past camp two and resorted back to base camp to wait for a clear window. After waiting out for 4 days our team went back to camp 1. Windspeeds were picking up to 60 - 70mph and a high risk of avalanche in the mountain was to follow up soon in the after 2 days. Our lead guide decided to call off the expedition since the client member did not want to add any additional days (5 - 7 days) to the expedition.
The only group or two people to summit Baruntse on (2021) spring was Marek Holecek and his climbing partner Radoslav Groh. They completed a new notorious route, climbing alpine style on the west face naming it “the heavenly trap” read more about their expedition on our blog post below ⬇️
We had previous (2019) reports that there is a huge crevasse opening when leading up to the summit but no one had a concrete certain report from 2020. Since Marek and Radoslav were the only two people to summit Baruntse in 2021 and returned via the southwest (normal expedition route) we approached him asking about any potential dangers and hazards in the mountains. Marek replied back to us with the following email. (Thank you very much Marek 🙏🏼).
Hi,
At about 6500 m there is a large transverse crack over the ridge, which at the time we were there went to overcome, but we had really a lot of snow there. The crack runs across the entire ridge. Now I don't know what it looks like. The second crack was around 6000 m, above the saddle we had to rope down. The crack at 6500 m was very dangerous.
Cheers Marek
_________________
Our expedition team could spot the hole/crack at 6000M.
We will be organizing expeditions to Baruntse during 2022 and 2023 and it is great to learn about these potential dangers and hazards beforehand. Our guiding team can expect these hazards at 6500M and prepare an additional safety line around this particular ridge section. Any teams heading to Baruntse during 2022 or 2023 can use this information for their expedition too, after all, teamwork is key during the expeditions and we would like everyone to be safe in the mountains.
Want to plan your expeditions to Baruntse Peak 7129M or other high-altitude mountaineering expeditions in the Himalayas? Please inquire about your preferred expedition to our teams as we have several 6000M, 7000M, and 8000M expeditions running in the Himalayas every year.
See you in the mountains.
Live Your Story
Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure
For years if not decades climbers have been debating about reaching the true summit(4) of Manaslu and where it actually is. Finally this year the drone shot captured by Jackson Groves during his Manaslu expedition made it clear as daylight to the world. His images clear the argument once and for all. Jackson himself mentions in his blog (Journeyera) that he stopped short at the fore summit and did not proceed to the main summit.
Mingma G seen climbing to the main summit. Majority of climbers previously stopped at the fore summit, claiming Manaslu 8163M Summit.
Mingma G, who set up the fix-rope at the pinnacle snow point of the summit (true summit) along with the Himalayan database claimed that this was only achieved only after 45 years (1976). Others argue otherwise but now we can understand why reaching the true summit which is 20m-25m away from the fore summit (Shelf 2) is such a dangerous challenge to overcome at 8100M+ level.
The last section is very technical and exposed which has to be climbed down a few feet, traversed through steep, snow, and rocky slopes with more than a hundred-meter drop, and is clearly not for any inexperienced climbers.
Manaslu 8163M expedition is considered an introductory 8000M+ expedition to see how non-seasoned climbers handle themselves climbing at the death zone but the last section from the fore summit to the true summit is not for the inexperienced climbers. For one the climb is a very dangerous and technical climb this final section which won’t be able to handle any sort of traffic jams and any form of rescue in between is near to impossible. Only very experienced seasoned climbers who want to stamp their name on the elitist group whose aim to hold records or gather as many summits are advised or if you have several previous climbing experiences (not just 2 or 3) then going up to the real summit is advised. Also, bearing in mind now that the true summit is clear to many, most climbers will be attempting the pinnacle point hence traffic might become an issue in such a small section.
Prior to this year (Autumn 2021), Manaslu 8163M summit has been claimed by many but it turns out only a handful of climbers had been to the main summit. The Tolerance zone concept proposed by Stefan Nestler is particularly interesting. His concept suggests two types of summiteers -
The general summit group: Many who have claimed to be at the summit have gone back home believing that they have been to the true summit. This will definitely come as an annoyance to many but the majority of the climbers who do not care about being in the absolute elite list won’t be back to climb Manaslu just to climb the few last meters.
The elitist summit group: Are the absolutes who make no compromises even to the last stone or snow point at the very top to claim the true summit. These climbers will have to come back to update their summit records.
Moving forward climbers who want to climb Manaslu as an introductory 8000M expedition will have to think really hard and make a sensible decision before venturing further away from the fore summit to the true summit. For the ones who want to be on the elite table list, the debate has ended and the true summit is clear. Operators too will have to be clear about the true summit and fore summit plans.
So, as the debate ends, are you planning to climb Manaslu 8163M in near future? Namas Adventure/Expedition team will be planning our expedition strategy to the true summit. However, to the non-seasoned climbers, the option of climbing the fore summit is still possible with our team.
See you in the mountains.
Go. Live Your Story.
Ama Dablam Expedition : A Climbers’ Guide - Namas Adventure
Summit push on Ama Dablam expedition, Nepal
Mountain Overview
Elevation: 6810M / 23389FT
Co-ordinates: 27.8619° N, 86.8612° E
Location: Khumbu Region
Parent Mountain: None
Summits: 1 Main summit
Country: Nepal
About the Mountain
Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountains in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Ama Dablam is the 3rd highest permit to be issued by NMA. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is referred to as the mountaineer’s mountain and is considered "a must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers. Ama Dablam is also referred to as the Matterhorn of Nepal.
History
Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (US), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ),
How to get here?
There is one main trekking route to get to Ama Dablam base camp.
Via Lukla - Namche Bazzar - Pangboche - Ama Dablam Base Camp (Hiking)
Ama Dablam Routes
Ama Dablam 6810M
Southwest Ridge (Commercial expedition route)
1979 Lowe Route on the South Face (VI AI4 M5 1200m)
1979 North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1600m)
1981 Northeast Spur to North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1500m)
1983 East Ridge (VI 80deg 1500m)
1984 Southwest Ridge
1985 West face (VI 5.7 65deg 1400m)
1985 Northeast Face (VI mixed 90deg 1400m)
1996 Northwest face (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ 1650m)
1996 North Ridge
2001 Northwest Ridge
Note - Climbers planning to climb this Ama Dablam without guide support or solo projects are advised to take other routes than (Southwest ridge) because it conflicts with the commercial expedition.
Permits
Required. Permit costs $400 (Spring and Autumn) and $200, Winter. Liaison officer charges apply.
When to climb Ama Dablam?
Spring season (April - May) if you prefer to see fewer climbing teams in the mountains.
Autumn (Mid October - November) is more famous and expect to see many teams and traffic during this season.
Winter ( Mid December - Mid February)
Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M
Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M
A few hours away from Pangboche, the Ama Dablam base camp sits at 4529M. This will be the home for many climbers for their entire climbing duration. The base camp is set up on grassy lands just beneath the mountain. A cell tower has been set up close to the Ama Dablam base camp, providing climbers with inconsistent internet access, but still decent service. An old yak hut has been transformed into a tea house, which is a short distance from the base camp. Independent climbers can use this as their permanent base camp or store their gear.
Camp 1, 5800M
It takes about 5-6 hours to reach Camp 1 from the base camp of Ama Dablam. Along the way, climbers will come across Yak Camp, which can also serve as an advanced base camp. However, the availability of water at this campsite is limited, so many teams do not use it or only use it for acclimatization rotations. The route to Camp 1 involves traversing rocky boulders and an exposed, somewhat loose ridge, which is typically dry during the autumn season. Camp 1 can accommodate 10-12 tents, which are set on the slopes of rocky boulders. Overcrowding can be an issue when all teams are planning their final summit bids at the same time.
Camp 2, 6100M (Yellow Tower)
The journey from Camp 1 to Camp 2 can take about 4 to 6 hours. After leaving Camp 1, climbers will have to clip onto the fixed ropes to make their way to the next camp. The route follows a steep ridge, exposed on both sides, with stable routes on the way to Camp 2. As climbers traverse the boulders and snow, they will face the final challenge of the day: the daunting "Yellow Tower," a vertical wall at an 80 to 90-degree angle. Climbing with all the necessary gear can be quite a challenge, so it is important for climbers to be prepared for this part of the ascent. The Yellow Tower climb can be graded at a 5.10 rock climbing level.
During the busy season, finding a spot in Camp 2 can be difficult as it only accommodates 7 to 8 tents. If the camp becomes overcrowded, additional makeshift camps may need to be set up on the edges. While this camp may not be suitable for those who are easily intimidated, it offers breathtaking views.
Camp 3 or 2.9,
Climbing towards camp 3, Ama Dablam
Camp 3 depends a lot on the condition of the snow and ice in the mountain. (It is most likely to be set up during the spring season rather than autumn.) The route goes from the back of the tower and is a very exposed section. Depending on the season, climbers will have to traverse on ice or granite slabs. Rockfalls can occur when there are many other climbing teams ahead. Some climbers have even reported rocks the size of a soccer ball. The climb up is 70-80 degrees vertical, and upon traversing, climbers will reach the uncompromising mushroom ridge.
As you navigate this section of the climb, you will encounter many new and old fixed ropes. It is important to pay attention and make sure you are clipping onto the correct rope, especially when climbing in the dark. After traversing a steep couloir and steadily making your way up the ridge, you will reach the area for Camp 3. After approximately 5 hours of climbing, many teams choose to skip this camp and continue directly to the summit. When you reach the base of the pyramid, the summit will be located above the Dablam slopes.
Camp 3, Ama Dablam. Photo by - Irina Galay
Ama Dablam Summit 6810M
Climbing further up on 55-65 degree slopes will lead to the final stretch before reaching the summit. Expect to climb for more than 10+ hours if you are planning to ascend directly from camp 2. The summit of Ama Dablam is a wide and broad plateau. On a clear day Mt. Everest, Makalu 8463M, and Baruntse 7129M ranges are clearly seen.
Prayer flags at Ama Dablam summit 6810M
Your climb is half done at this point. Abseiling down to camp 3 is straightforward, although some climbers wrap the ropes around their arms and make a speedy descent, which is not recommended. The mushroom ridge and couloir areas can be challenging during the descent, as they can be gnarly and tiring. It's important to stay focused and on top of your climbing skills, as you may already be fatigued from the climb to the summit. Once you've successfully crossed these challenging sections, you will arrive at camp 2.
We usually plan to spend the night at this camp, but very fit climbers may be able to descend further down to Camp 1. However, descending the Yellow Tower is not easy either; it's a 90-degree descent, so be sure to have enough strength left to rappel down and traverse the uncomfortable granite before reaching Camp 1. The descent to Base Camp is straightforward, where your comfortable camp awaits.
Express Itinerary
With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 21 days. Flying from Ama Dablam BC to Lukla or Kathmandu.
Some climbers arrive in Nepal with hypoxic pre-acclimatization training and do a speed climb on several mountains including Ama Dablam.
Further extensions
(i) Baruntse expedition.
Baruntse 7129M mountain peak can be your further extension going higher into a 7000M altitude zone. Additional 15 days will be required to take on this remote peak in the Makalu/Barun valley.
Continued further down via Amphu Lhabtsa pass, towards Baruntse west col and then finally climbing down via Sherini col to arrive at Makalu base camp to climb. Extra 20 - 25 days required to climb Makalu (with contingency days) We highly recommend spring season if you are to plan Makalu expedition as the weather is more stable during spring than the autumn season.
Are you planning to climb Ama Dablam someday in the near future? If yes then our team specializes in remote mountain peaks in the Himalayan region. We go where few ventures, safely access and navigate these parts of the Himalayas, creating new possibilities in the mountains.
For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Go. Explore more.
Live Your Story
Baruntse Peak: A Climbers’ Guide - Namas Adventure
South East Ridge route, Baruntse Expedition
Mountain Overview
Elevation: 7129M / 23389FT
Co-ordinates: 27°52′18″N 86°58′48″E
Location: Makalu / Barun Valley
Parent Mountain: None
Summits: 3 Fore Summit / 1 Main Summit
Country: Nepal
About the Mountain
Baruntse peak 7129M is located in the Himalayan region of Nepal, just between Lhotse 8516M and Makalu 8463M. Crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho to the north-west by the Imja glacier, and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. Baruntse mountain stretch has four ridges and four summits. The three main ridges are situated between the glaciers, the fourth main summit lies to the west near Cho Polu peak.
History
Baruntse was first climbed on 30 May 1954, via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
How to get here?
There are three main routes to get to Baruntse Base Camp.
Via Mera Peak acclimatisation / route
Via Imja lake route, climbing Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800
Via Sherpini col 5600M from Makalu route
Baruntse Routes
RED Route (Heavenly trap - 2021) and Blue Route (Russian Efimov 1995)
Southeast Ridge (Normal/safest Expedition route)
West Face (Heavenly trap) route, May 2021 - Two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and fellow Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh completed a new route ascent to Baruntse 7129M in alpine style via the west face route which they named as “Heavenly trap” (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m).
Russian Efimov Route 1995
East Ridge - 1980 by Lorenzo Ortas, Javier Escartín, Jeronimo Lopez (all Spain) and Carlos Buhler (America) of a Spanish expedition led by Juan José Díaz Ibañez.
Barutnse Base Camp 5640M
Baruntse Base Camp 5460M
Baruntse base camp is at 5640M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier.
West Col 5800M
210M high, 45-degree climb on a vertical snow, rock, and ice wall to reach the ridge section. This is the first technical and objective challenge to overcome at the 5800M level.
Camp 1, 6100M
After climbing up the West col, traversing through the ridge, and hiking further down climbers will come across an open area to set up their camp 1. Normally, Baruntse camp 1 sits at 6100M level after climbing the vertical wall and traversing towards the wide-open flowing Barun glacier.
Camp 2, 6400M
Camp 2 is not far from camp 2 rather a gradual steep hill to climb and gain some altitude on the fore mountains of Baruntse. Climbing mostly on ice/snow section camp 2 is established at 6400M elevation just below the steep section which is the path for summit push.
Camp 2, Baruntse 6400M
Summit 7129M
Summit push is where most of the climb is done during the Baruntse climb. Snow and ice conditions differ every year as with most of the mountains. Fixed-line ropes are usually fixed only above camp 2. The climb from camp 2 is mostly a steep uphill climb until climbers reach the ridge/cornice section around 6600M.
The climb from here onwards is the most technical part of the climb. Fixed-line ropes will be been set up by the Sherpa team and the climb is mostly on the exposed and steep, climbing/traversing mostly on the cornice formed on the ridge of the entire Baruntse mountain. Baruntse has 3 false summits with the final summit being the farthest. The summit of Baruntse is only a small surface area on the main summit.
Climbers will have to descend the same way back. Extra caution is required as this will be 4-5 hours of the slow and tiring way back with the goal to reach camp 1.
Express Itinerary
With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 23 to 24 days. Flying from Baruntse Base camp 5460M to Lukla.
Further extensions
(i) Makalu expedition. Continued further down via Sherpini col and then arrive at Makalu base camp to climb. Extra 20 - 25 days required to climb Makalu (with contingency days) We highly recommend spring season if you are to plan Makalu expedition as the weather is more stable during spring than the autumn season.
(ii) Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Climb the famous and stunningly beautiful Ama Dablam. A technical climbing challenge. Can be planned during both Spring (less climbers) and Autumn (busier many climbers expected) season.
(iii) Island Peak and Lobuche East. Bag some more 6000M+ expedition in the Khumbu valley
Bonus: Amphu Lhabtsa Pass
Amphu Labtsa pass is a glaciated pass located at the head of the Honku valley. The base of the valley is located at 5,000 m (16,400 ft) and contains several glacial lakes. Amphu Lapcha is zigzag glaciers formations with base camps at North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. View from Amphu Labtsa passes Imja valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, just awesome.
Are you planning to climb Baruntse 7129M mountain peak someday in the near future? If yes then our team specializes in remote mountain peaks in the Himalayan region. We go where few ventures, safely access and navigate these parts of the Himalayas, creating new possibilities in the mountains.
For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Go. Explore more.
Live Your Story
11 other essentials items for Mountaineering expedition: Easy to forget but super useful in the mountains - Namas Adventure
Mountaineering expeditions are tricky and when it comes to packing our gears it never ends. Pack, unpack, repack, re-check tour list and repack again. Wait for a few days and you feel you have missed something or you are wondering how can I make my pack lighter & smaller. So begins the process of organizing it and repacking it again. Our guess is you will never be satisfied with the process.
In this post, we have listed 11 essential items that may not look handy but are super useful during your mountaineering expedition. These items are not super-must and are easy to miss but having them in your pack can make your life a little bit easier during your expedition. Consider it mountain luxury at your disposal, adding a bit of comfort to your expedition.
Lip guards (Yes, more than one) & Sunscreen cream SPF 50, 70, or 100 (Also more than one)
SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays
SPF 100 blocks 99% of UVB ray
Extra socks and gloves
We highly suggest you pack at least 1-2 pairs of expedition socks and gloves. There are days when you don’t feel like doing your laundry and having that extra socks is comfort on its own. Gloves are tricky, great if you don’t loose one, but if you do having that backup pair is key as you won’t be able to climb without your gloves. That we can guarantee and frostbite is not the ideal situation you want to experience.
Cold/warm air Mask regulator
This is one of the tools that we would consider essential for every climber. I It is amazing that many climbers are now attempting higher expeditions above 8000M+ like Everest, Makalu, Manaslu etc without supplement O2. (Kudos to the human potential and one’s motivation of pushing themselves) Or even climbing at 6000ers to 70000ers like Baruntse, Himlung, etc peaks. The air is so thin, dry, and crip cold that it takes a toll on our nose. Gross, it may sound but climbers know the issue of the clogged up nose and trying to get rid of this booger and breathing in cold air which is a struggle on its own. These air mark regulators are a godsend. It helps retain the moisture and regulate the cold air you breathe in to somewhat tolerable and a little warm. These are slowly becoming a must-have choice for many professional climbers. We can recommend two products which are listed below.
Thermos flask with a cup
Super handy when things are flexible and accessible especially when camping in high camps. That sip of warm water or tea is a god send and a booster. Imagine just having a cup when you want to drink water in your camps, the value of it is immense.
Nose/cheek Shielder
Nothing fancy here the UV rays from the sun and the cold air might be harsh on your cheeks and nose especially. So taping up can protect it from burning up.
Satellite communicator
Want to give peace of mind to your friends and families during your expeditions? Then satellite communicators are your answer. Garmin and other providers allow you to send messages to your loved ones or audience to keep track of your expeditions. (Works in most of the Himalayas Expeditions) You will have to use their subscription plans to be able to connect to the internet and use the features. The great news is you can use their FREEDOM plan when you are in the mountains and cancel it once you are back home.
Extra batteries, power banks and portable solar panels:
Solar technology keeps advancing and that’s great news for everyone. Highly recommend getting portable solar panels that you can just hang on your bag when juicing up your batteries and devices. Especially when you are in the remote corners of the Himalayas or other mountains, the sun is the only source of energy on clear days so you will want to make the best out of it and recharge all those batteries. Goal Zero makes some amazing portable solar panels and other devices that we can highly recommend for expeditions.
Extra Sunglasses
Nothing is more frustrating than losing or breaking your glasses when climbing in the mountains. Reflections from the sun are harsh and strong or even during gloomy days you must have a pair or even impossible to climb without a good visual. So always have an extra glass as a backup option. Plenty of brands out there but we are in love with JULBO pairs 😍.
Pee bottles
One can only understand the comfort of having a pee bottle when you are inside your tent and the temperature outside is freezing below -10C. Having a pee bottle at your reach is always handy when you do not have to keep getting out into the cold and dark to just your little business. That’s why we consider this, one of the musts.
Pro tip: Comes super handy when you are driving and you don’t have a place to make you wee stop 😅.
Nuts, Bars and Energy gels
You will always need that constant supply of nutrients in any form. Be it in solid-food form or liquid through the water. So having nuts, bars, or energy gels is always handy which are pocketable and easier to carry and just reach out when climbing or just resting. There’s plenty of amazing brands out there in the market. Cliff bars, High5 nutrition, SIS, etc
Wet wipes
Showers are a luxury during expeditions and it’s hard to maintain a constant flow of water at some locations or even non-existent. Wet wipes are your answers then. For the most part during the long mountain expedition, climbers understand that they may not be able to take shower for an extended period of time but we can adapt. Take a wet wipe shower (at least that’s what we call it) is a perfect alternative.
Do you have an item that you think is a must, on long expeditions that makes your life a little bit comfortable in the mountains? Please comment below.
And if you are planning mountain adventure in the Himalayas then our team is here at your service. We have yearly 6000M peak expeditions like Mera peak or Chulu West peak for beginners and experienced level climbers. 7000ers such as Baruntse 7129M Peak or Himlung Himal 7134M peak for the explorers or challenge seekers who want to climb higher peaks. 8000ers such as Manaslu 8163M or Makalu 8485M for the ones that want to get into the death zone and summit the Big E, Mt. Everest.
Explore More. Go.
Live Your Story
Namas Adventure team
Everything you need to know about Tilicho Peak 7134M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Tilicho base camp is set on the east side of the Mountain at 4900M
1. When is the best time to climb Tilicho peak?
Autumn (September - Mid November) is the best time to organise Tilcho Peak 7134M expedition.
2. How much does Tilicho 7134M Expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?
With Namas Adventure/Expedition team, please check our website (link). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead. We explore the least climbed and remote peaks in the Himalayas and around the globe.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members)
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (ACAP region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. The first ascent of Tilicho peak 7134M.
Tilicho Peak was first climbed by a French expedition led by Emanuel Schmutz in 1978 via the North West Shoulder.
4. How many climbing routes are there to climb Tilicho Peak?
Officially Tilicho peak has only been summited via the northwest shoulder.
5. What experience do climbers need to climb Tilicho Peak expedition? Are guides necessary?
Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 6000M and several technical peaks of with alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Tilicho peak mountain. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get a wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc.
Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections, traversing on mountain slopes and climbing through spurs on the routes. Climbers must be highly efficient with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains, and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
This expedition is not for intermediate experience level climbers.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
6. How many high camps are there on this expedition?
Strategically on Tilicho peak expedition, we will have 2 to 3 high-altitude camps.
Camp 1 (5800M)
Camp 2 (6200M)
Camp 3 (6600M) - possibility after assessing the weather, snow/ice and other objective dangers in the mountains.
7. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Tilicho peak expedition?
Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions, it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
During the expedition, our team will do a couple of rotations between camps 1 and 2 to acclimatize and get familiar with the routes. This gives our body to acclimatize at the extreme altitude and drop supplies at higher camps.
Note - If you want to shorten your Tilicho Peak (Express) itinerary to 24-25 days Namas team can make those arrangements.
8. What training is required/experience for Tilicho Peak expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Tilicho peak is graded at D+ (Fitness level) and by no means should this expedition be taken lightly and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M or 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, past climbing experiences, knowledge all play a vital role in order to successfully complete this expedition.
We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. And nothing beats the good old ways of climbing other smaller peaks and testing yourself before your main expedition. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
9. How hard is Tilicho Peak climbing expedition?
Tilicho Peak expedition is graded at D+/ 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 14 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.
When we depart from Tilicho base camp 4900M our first objective challenge is to reach camp 1 navigating the ridge of North shoulder climbing through. spurs and steep 70 to 90 degree climbs to reach camps 1 and 2. Mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, and traversing on exposed ridges.
Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. and the wind starts to pick up. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment as we climb to gain 500+M to reach the summit and descend down back to camp 1. You can expect to climb for around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend as any normal climbs. Our base camp team members meanwhile will be waiting for your arrival. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges.
10. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Tilicho Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for this expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots for Mount Tilicho peak 7134M Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
11. What types of foods are available during Tilicho Peak Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our tilicho base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.
In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
12. What trip insurance will I need for this Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
13. Next climbing goals after Tilicho Peak Expedition climbing
Once you complete your objective of climbing Tilicho Peak you can start to plan further into other technical high altitude peaks that satisfy your climbing objective.
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest as Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Mera, Baruntse and Makalu (Triple Combo) or Baruntse with Mera Peak
Makalu Triple combo climbing expedition is one of the exciting mountain climbing expedition we organise at Namas Adventure. Climb the 5th highest peak in the world which is technically challenging but with a mix of climbing Mera Peak 6476M as your acclimatisation peak and Baruntse 7129M as your training peak. Mera Peak will be the most comfortable climbing peak helping you acclimatise and then we proceed onto the next 7000M peak objective of climbing Baruntse. The idea is to summit a 6000M+ peaks then to 7000M+ peak and then finally a 8000M peak.
Baruntse peak 7129M is one of the most remote peak sitting between Makalu and Everest/Lhotse. We will use this expedition to acclimatise further and also to train/refresh our climbing skills at higher altitude. Climbing Baruntse peak should further prepare us for taking on our final objective of climbing Makalu. After summiting Baruntse we then proceed towards Makalu base camp descending down via Sherpani col route.
Makalu 8463M will be the ultimate goal for this expedition. A mix of technical climb and extreme altitude this climb does not come easy. This expedition challenge is perfect after Everest expedition. You will need a serious endurance and strength in your fitness tank. Make this part of your climbing how ever it suits you. Some climbers want to climb all 14 X 8000M peaks or just another 8000M peak climbing achievement. What ever your goal Makalu is one of the best expedition to take on before or after Everest expedition.
We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your ultiamate dream of climbing Mt. Everest. If you are looking for a great climbing team and want to have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mt. Everest Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on Everest summit successfully. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
3. Manaslu 8163M Expedition
Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.
4. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Your ultiamte expedition climbing to the Roof of the world. Mt. Everest Expedition.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Other related articles:
Himlung Himal Expedition (Experience, fitness level and skills) requirements - Namas Adventure
Himlung Himal Summit 7126M.
What previous experience is required to climb Himlung Himal?
When planning a Himlung Himal expedition, it is important to consider your previous climbing experience. This 7000M+ peak presents a number of challenges, including the need for comfort and experience with ropes, climbing gear, and fixed-line techniques, as well as the ability to withstand cold and potentially adverse weather conditions.
While Himlung Himal may not be the most technically demanding of the 7000M peaks in Nepal, it is still a significant undertaking that requires a strong level of skill and preparedness. If you have limited climbing experience, this peak may be a good option to start your journey into 7000M+ expeditions. Its relatively high success rate and the fact that it requires the use of gear and fixed lines make it a suitable choice for those looking to build their skills and confidence. Regardless of your level of experience, it is crucial to be physically and mentally prepared for the demands of this expedition.
Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences
Anywhere above 4000M - 6500M+ peaks with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. For example Alpamayo, Huscaran, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, Denali, Mt. Blanc, Mt lenin, Ebrus. The general term is any semi-technical to technical peaks that are higher and have longer ascend and descend sections. These experiences do qualify you to take on Baruntse and other 7000M peaks in the Himalayas.
Fitness level - 4
We have graded fitness level 4 for Mount Himlung. An exceptional level of all-around fitness will be required to cope with the exceptionally strenuous nature of these expeditions. An exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required. The mental toughness aspect is equally required. Experience is required to be able to take on tours of this physical grading.
The difficult issue is how you train for such exceptional conditions. Hard work will be required to get to that fitness level. For a General fitness indication, climbers should be able to run a half marathon or be able to cycle for 2 -3 hours. If you prefer hiking, you should be able to carry a load of 20 kilograms and hike for 3 to 4 hours.
Good strength and muscle endurance training routines can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.
Himlung Himal camp 2, 6100M
Skills to be learned.
Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.
Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, traversing, and hiking with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.
As climbers joining Himlung Himal expedition will already have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.
With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.
Challenge yourself.
Go. Live Your Story
Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 7000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.
Manaslu expedition (Experiences, fitness and skills) - Namas Adventure
Manaslu 8163M Expedition
What experiences do I need to have to climb Manaslu?
Climbing any 8000M peak is no joke and climbing at those heights should definitely give you chills and excitement. At this level, there is no such thing as an easy climb. Manaslu is no different. Although this is considered one of the most accessible 8000M+ peaks, climbing via a standard route does not come easy and previous high-altitude climbing experiences are a must. This peak does come with a substantial set of challenges and objective dangers such as bergschrund, steep vertical climb, avalanche-prone, etc. Like any other big mountaineering project you must be very-very comfortable scrambling, traversing, and climbing on steep rocky (or icy, during spring) sections, jumaring on fixed-line ropes, climbing with gears, descending on fixed-line, and bearing crisp cold climbing conditions.
Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences
At least 1 X 7000M+ peak expedition and several 4000M - 6000M+ expeditions with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. Consider yourself ready and prepared to step into 8000M peaks with Manaslu as your starting 8000M+ peak. Manaslu Expedition is considered an essential experience before embarking higher on to Everest or K2 expeditions. Manaslu expedition attracts a lot of high-altitude climbing lovers. The general term is any semi-technical to technical peaks that are higher and have longer ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending sections. These experiences do qualify you to take on Manaslu.
Crossing crevasse using ladder during Manaslu Expedition
Fitness Level - 5
We have graded fitness level 5 for the Mt. Manalsu expedition. Exceptional level of all-round fitness coupled with the ability to cope and resist at the highest altitude. An exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required with a high degree of mental toughness. A resistance to extreme weather conditions over extended periods of time. Heavy loads over multiple days may need to be carried. Previous experience is highly crucial in order to prepare your body to endure a high level of mental and physical toughness from both altitude and terrain.
The difficult issue is how you train for such exceptional conditions. Hard work will be required to get to that fitness level. For a General fitness indication, climbers should be able to run half marathon to marathon or be able to cycle for 4 -5 hours. If you prefer hiking, you should be able to carry a load of 25 - 30 kilograms and hike for 3 to 4 hours. Being able to complete a triathlon is a great indication that you are physically at your optimum best.
Good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.
Skills to be learned
Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know. These fundamental skills listed below should be of second nature to you when climbing.
Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.
Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4. (See our - Alpine grading for reference)
Thrill of climbing Manaslu
Climbers joining Manaslu 8163M expedition must have previous high altitude experiences and solid knowledge of various climbing skills. We recommend climbers have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.
With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Manaslu now more than ever is now an achievable objective with a higher success rate for climbers who don’t consider themselves pros. Thanks to the effective guidance of Sherpa leaders of Nepal. Some of our IFMGA Nepalese guides consider this peak one of their favorite climb. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience, you will also need to commit to your physical training like any other expeditions.
Challenge yourself.
Go. Live Your Story
Are you planning to climb 🏔Manaslu 8163M in Nepal? If your dream is to climb this extremely beautiful and challenging peak in Nepal and progress to higher 7000M to 8000M+ mountains then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure expeditions. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.
Manaslu 8163M Expedition strategy. Base Camp to Summit - Namas Adventure
Manaslu Expedition, Nepal
Manaslu 8163M expedition is one of the most thrilling and accessible mountain to climb at 8000M+ level. Manaslu and Cho Oyu are the two most climbed 8000M mountains. A perfect mountain to climb before embarking on the ultimate dream of summiting Everest.
Base Camp 4800M to Camp 1 (5600M - 5700M)
Our expedition begins with 🚁 helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Sama Gaun 3690M on the third day of the expedition. After acclimatising for a day in the village we begin our hike to Manaslu base camp 4800M where our camps will already have been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa & porter teams. Preparations will have already be done months before and base camp teams will be ready to welcome clients where they will enjoy, eat, rest, relax have fun. This will be the home for next 25-28 days. We will ascend by the North-East Face, utilizing 4 camps along the way. Next, after few days of acclimatisation, puja ceremony and training day our group will head to camp 1. Climbers will hike through rugged uphill path, that takes them through moraine and crevassed glacier and finally to camp 1. The views from base camp is breathtaking with Himalayas dominating the views all around.
Camp 1 (5600M - 5700M) - Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M)
The climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a strenuous and hard climb where the team ascends moderate-angled snow slopes on the lower reaches, with a short steep slope above Camp 1. Climbing through steep slopes requires your full focus and it is expected to take anywhere from 5 - 7 hours or more until you arrive at camp 2 at 6300M -6400M. Camp 2 treats with you with another breathtaking surrounding Himalayan peaks. From here you could feel the surrounding mountains are really close to you.
Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M) - Camp 3 (6900M)
The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is mountain straight forward, requiring steady progress on a vast some snowy slopes, and one short but steep section just before arriving at camp 3. This day, we will be climbing for 4 - 5 hours.
Camp 3 (6900M) - Camp 4 (7300M)
Camp 3 to camp 4 is another steep vertical slope climbing day. Relying on the fixed ropes and your crampons to get you up to 7300M. Expect to climb for around 6 - 7 hours on this part of the climb. We will be doing a frequent rotation of higher camps to lower camps to get well acclimatized before making the final push to the summit.
Camp 4 (7300M) - Summit 8163M to Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M)
The move from camp 4 to the summit is not as technical between the camps, but longer and requires more steady progress over the flowing snowy/icy slope. The views all around on this section are as incredible as climbers will be heading towards the 8000M altitude. After around 6 - 8 hours of climb, climbers will arrive at the ‘false summit’ where a lot of the operators end their summit bid but Namas Expedition Sherpa team will always aim to fix the rope to the “true summit” which is the highest point for Manaslu 8163M. This requires meticulous planning and decision making due to the unstable nature of the ice/snow surface at the summit.
Descending the mountain is quick and straight forward but equal care is required as clients will be super tired after the summit. Making it to the summit is halfway, so our objective will be to reach camp 2 safely by afternoon or early evening hours. The very next day, we then descend from camp 2 to basecamp, which should take 3 - 4 hours. Our base camp team will be ready to welcome us there with summit achievement cheers and joy. After resting for a bit we can enjoy our much deserved warm meal prepared by our chef. The way back home involves the same trek back down into Sama Gaun, followed by a night at the village before catching the helicopter back to Kathmandu. After arriving in Kathmandu climbers will have another two nights for well-deserved celebrations, showers and rest before departing back to their home.
As climbers joining Manaslu expedition will already (must) have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.
With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up, you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.
Challenge yourself.
Go. Live Your Story
Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 8000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.
Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition
Manaslu BC 4800M
Manaslu Expedition is considered a must climb for anyone seeking to climb Everest or other challenging 8000M+ peaks in the world. Crowning itself the eighth highest peak in the world, this mountaineering expedition is suitable for anyone with 6000M - 7000M+ climbing experience. This is a perfect expedition to experience not only the challenges of climbing an extreme altitude peak but also experience the death zone altitude climb. The climbing route is technical and strenuous with fixed rope line support available to reach the summit. We expect all climbers to be extremely fit for any 7000M - 8000M+ expedition.
During climbing days, Sherpa guides leaders from several groups work together to set up the ropes. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snowy surfaces with an exposed section past 6600M+ all the way to the summit. Be ready for long duration of climbing on steep vertical section, crossing through crevasse and jumar/climbing/walking on steep sections for long hours. This is definitely a must climb for any climbers seeking high altitude climbing adventure if you particularly dream to climb Mt.Everest.
*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Manaslu 8163M climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Manaslu?
Manaslu is best suited to climb at the end of Monsoon season in Nepal. (3rd week of August to October)
Note - Manaslu is one of the most popular climbs at 8000M+ level in Nepal after Everest. You can expect several teams to attempt the climb in any given year.
2. How much does the Manaslu expedition cost? What does it include?
With Namas Adventure team, the Manaslu expedition costs $18250 P/P (Heli charter Ktm - Samagaon - Ktm) and $17500 P/P (trek to Samagaon and back via helicopter to Ktm from Samagoan). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their expedition and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IMFGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$1000 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
🚁 Helicopter charter to Nearest village (Sama Gaon) from Base camp and 🚁 helicopter charter back to Kathmandu after you summit and return to base camp. (clients who choose this option)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. ( Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )
2 X Oxygen cylinder (Additional Cylinder $500 per O2 cylinder)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
60 kgs personal weight
Meals at higher camps
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/GPS tracking system
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. What experience do climbers need to climb Manaslu? Are guides necessary to climb Manaslu?
Experiences - Previous high altitude (6000M - 7000M+) alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Manaslu. If you have climbed peaks above 6000M+ such as Chulu West 6419M, Lobuche East & Island Peak and 7000er peaks such as Baruntse Peak 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M,and Mt. Nun 7135M sets you up perfectly for the Manaslu expedition. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal and can be anywhere else in the world. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience in hiking/climbing/traversing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Must be comfortable and proficient in using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. You should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, and basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.
On most major expeditions in Nepal for the majority of the time, climbers will have to rely on their jumaring skill and strength (ascending) and rappeling/abseiling skills to safely descend down the mountains. Your strength and endurance to continue for a long duration are very key for any climbers to complete this expedition.
Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Manaslu Expedition, you will have to go through a registered local company. For intermediate-level or even professional experience-level climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The standard climbing route does have several objective dangers/challenges and there are chances of avalanche, there for local knowledge and guidance is super key on any major expeditions.
If you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.
4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for the climbing Manaslu expedition?
On high-altitude climbing trips it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.
On the Manaslu expedition, we have strategized our itinerary with 4 high camps and several rotations between camps 1, 2, and 3 so that climbers are well acclimatized, recovered, and stronger to complete the expedition successfully.
More details are on our Manaslu climbing strategy.
5. What training is required/experience for Manaslu climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Manaslu climbing is by no means an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 6000M - 7000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the mountains. We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Kettle bell strength + endurance training twice or three times a week are also recommended to build muscular endurance. We advise you to schedule your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
6. How hard is Manaslu climbing expedition?
Manaslu expedition is graded at 4E in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).
We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 35 days of alpine climbing days with contingency days in case of bad weather. The climb will demand every ounce of your fitness and awareness. Breathing will be challenging but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.
When we depart from the base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. Once staged up and set up at base camp the climbers prepare here for the next 35 days of climbing and summiting Manaslu. Once setting off from camps to camps Manaslu has some of the longest and uphill steep climbs. Climbing route is in a very exposed area and there are significant dangers of crevasses opening and avalanches. Ladders are set up by guide members from several expedition team and it is best to always follow the instructions of your guide when climbing.
All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges.
7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Manaslu climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Manaslu expedition climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-30c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Mountaineering Boots for Manaslu Expedition
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. What types of foods are available during Manaslu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Most of the foods are prepared in the Base camp and during your climbing days foods are carried up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food as our chef will prepare energy-dense delicacies in our base camp kitchen and all you have to do is enjoy your meal, recover and get stronger. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
9. What trip insurance will I need for Manaslu Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Manaslu region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts and a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim.
There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Manaslu Expedition climbing
If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition
3. Makalu 8463M, Nepal
Manaslu Expedition is one of the exciting 8000M mountain climbing expedition in Nepal. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Manaslu climbing journey. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Manaslu Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.
Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Experiences, fitness level and skills required to climb Ama Dablam expedition - Namas Adventure
Ama Dablam Summit push
What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Ama Dablam? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Ama Dablam?
In order to successfully ascend Ama Dablam, it is essential for individuals to possess a strong foundation in high-altitude mountaineering and alpine-style climbing techniques. This includes proficiency in scrambling, traversing, and navigating steep rocky or icy terrain, as well as the ability to safely utilize fixed-line ropes and climbing gear. Additionally, it is important to be acclimatized to and comfortable with cold conditions. It is strongly recommended that individuals have prior experience climbing peaks of 6000 meters or higher in order to adequately prepare for this expedition. It should also be noted that Ama Dablam presents its own unique set of challenges and potential hazards, thus, it is imperative that individuals are thoroughly prepared and confident in their abilities to handle the aforementioned skills and conditions.
What are the prerequisites for climbing Ama Dablam?
Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.
Individuals contemplating an ascent of Ama Dablam should possess a strong background in high-altitude climbing, specifically by having successfully climbed several peaks ranging from 4000 to 6000 meters that require semi-technical to technical climbing techniques. For those seeking additional challenges, many climbers choose to tackle Ama Dablam following their successful expeditions on peaks such as Mount Everest or K2. Ama Dablam is a popular destination among those who thrive on the demands of alpine climbing. Some notable examples of such peaks include Alpamayo, Mount Kenya, Denali, Mount Everest, Baruntse, and Manaslu. These peaks generally require significant technical expertise, particularly in the areas of ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending. Having experience climbing such peaks would qualify one to undertake the challenging ascent of Ama Dablam.
Fitness level - 5
For our Ama Dablam mountain expedition, we have established a fitness level of 5. This signifies an exceptional level of overall fitness, including the ability to cope with and acclimatize to high-altitude environments. It also requires a high degree of endurance, strength, and mental toughness, as well as the ability to withstand extreme weather conditions for extended periods of time. Participants should also be prepared for the physical demands of carrying 8-12kgs of loads over multiple days. Given the challenging nature of this expedition, previous experience in high-altitude climbing is highly recommended in order to prepare both mentally and physically for the demands of altitude and terrain.
Preparing for the exceptional conditions of an expedition such as Ama Dablam requires a significant level of dedication and effort. To achieve the required fitness level, individuals should strive to achieve high levels of endurance and strength.
To provide a general indication of the level of fitness required, it is recommended that individuals be able to run a half marathon to a marathon distance, or cycle for 5-6 hours. For those who prefer hiking, being able to carry a load of 25 to 30 kilograms and hike for 6 hours+ is a good benchmark. Additionally, being able to complete a triathlon is a strong indicator that an individual is at their physical peak.
Additionally, a good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented through a variety of approaches, such as participating in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training. It is important to note that this training should be done under the guidance of a professional trainer or coach to ensure that it is tailored to an individual's specific needs and goals.
Skills to be learned.
Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it really simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.
Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c. Indoors or outdoors. (For reference check out our - Alpine grading)
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.
Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4 (required for Spring Ama Dablam expedition)
Participating in an Ama Dablam expedition requires a solid foundation of previous high-altitude climbing experience and a strong understanding of various climbing techniques. Additionally, having additional essential skills such as rope techniques, rock climbing, and ice climbing can greatly enhance your chances of success. If you are unable to find mountains to climb in your area, a deeper level of indoor and outdoor rock climbing can help you maintain your skills and fitness levels.
While most commercial expeditions take care of the logistics, it is still important to be prepared and to have a good understanding of the technical aspects of the climb. Thanks to the expertise and competence of the Sherpa guide leaders in Nepal, summit attempts on Ama Dablam are now more accessible than ever. Some of our Nepalese guides even consider this peak to be their favorite climb, and it can serve as a great training ground for higher and more challenging peaks.
It is important to note that the success of an expedition depends on the competence of all team members, from operational management to field guides. Once you have signed up and have the necessary skills and experience, it is critical to commit to a physical training regimen in order to be fully prepared for the demands of the expedition.
Challenge yourself. Go. Live Your Story
Climbers above camp 3 making summit push during Ama Dablam expedition.
Are you considering an ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal? If you are eager to tackle this stunning and challenging peak and progress to even higher mountains, the team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is here to help make your dream a reality. We would be happy to assist you with any questions you may have regarding the expedition. To contact us, please email us at bookings@namasadventure.com or give us a call/WhatsApp at +447446976060 and one of our team members will be happy to assist you.
When to climb Ama Dablam? (Spring or Autumn) - Namas Adventure
Ama Dablam climbing to camp 2
When planning an expedition to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal, you may be wondering what the best time to tackle this peak is. With years of experience leading expeditions and local knowledge from our guides, we can say that it really depends on your preference for climbing in different conditions. Luckily, Ama Dablam is accessible for climbing in both spring and autumn. In this article, we will outline the conditions you can expect during each season, so you can choose the one that best fits your style and preferences.
What’s the difference between Spring & Autumn climb? 🧗
There are fewer climbers during the spring season (70% fewer climbers) compared to the autumn season.
More snow/Ice on the mountain during the spring season result.
The spring season sees a longer daylight duration compared to the autumn season.
Spring climbing days are colder & more snow showers are to be expected.
Autumn sees more stable weather compared to the spring season.
More Avalanche prone (Camp 3) during Autumn.
Spring (Mid March - End May) sees a lot more snow compared to autumn. The spring season on Ama Dablam is a true test of adventure and endurance. With fewer crowds and the added challenge of fresh, deep snow, it's the perfect opportunity for thrill-seekers to test their mettle. The chance to stake a claim on the notorious Yellow Tower is a rare and coveted opportunity, and the chance to tackle the mountain's vertical and exposed sections with minimal traffic is an experience not to be missed. Spring tests your patience, especially when things don't go according to plan, and teams may need to improvise a lot. That's why spring sees fewer climbers on other peaks (excluding Everest and Lhotse) compared to autumn. However, when spring does offer clear weather, it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal.
Irina Galay - Ama Dablam Spring Expedition
Autumn (Mid-September - End of November) attracts many climbers to most of the peaks in Nepal. The snow and ice melt during spring and monsoon, revealing granite rock formations that are visible while climbing. The post-monsoon air brings clean and crisp conditions, and the snow in the Himalayan peaks has melted and settled significantly compared to the deep, snowy conditions of spring. This makes the climbing conditions more favorable for all climbers. The season starts earlier, with shorter days and stable weather conditions. The autumn season begins in September and typically sees snowfall towards the end of November, with heavy falls expected as winter approaches. Ama Dablam is particularly popular with climbers during this season, and is probably the most famous peak to climb in autumn."
Descending Ama Dablam - Autumn season
Conclusion
As you stand at the base of Ama Dablam, the icy peak towering above you, you can't help but feel a surge of excitement and nerves. This is a mountain that demands respect, with its steep, technical routes and high altitudes. But you are ready for the challenge.
Whether you choose to brave the snowy conditions of spring or the crisp, stable autumn weather, one thing is certain: this will be an adventure you'll never forget. With fewer climbers on the mountain during the spring season, you may even have the chance to claim your own slice of solitude on the iconic Yellow Tower.
As you make your way up the mountain, the challenges will come thick and fast. From vertical ice walls to exposed traverses, Ama Dablam will test every ounce of your skill and determination. But as you stand on the summit, triumphant, you'll know that the reward was worth it.
So what are you waiting for? Grab your gear and join us on an unforgettable journey to the top of Ama Dablam. It may be tough, but the memories you'll make will last a lifetime
Lets, go summit Ama Dablam and other peaks around the world.
Go.
Live Your Story.
Question.
Which season do you plan to climb Ama Dablam & Island Peak (or Lobuche East(? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.
We organize Ama Dablam and Island Peak expedition (or Lobuche East via Gokyo) every year during spring and occasionally during autumn. Planning to climb Baruntse one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.
Experiences, fitness and skills required to climb Baruntse Expedition - Namas Adventure
Baruntse 7129M in the background
What previous experience is required to climb Mount Baruntse?
This is probably one of the most important questions we get asked a lot, and climbers will need to weigh in with their previous expedition when planning their next high/extreme altitude peak expeditions. Baruntse peak climbing is no different. This 7000M+ peak does come with a substantial set of challenges and objective dangers. First, you will have to be very comfortable and experienced with ropes, climbing with climbing gear, ascending and descending on fixed-line, and bearing crisp cold climbing conditions.
Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences
Anywhere above 4000M - 6500M+ peaks with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. For example Alpamayo, Huscaran, Aconcagua, Mt. Kenya, Denali, Mt. Blanc, Mt lenin, Ebrus. If you have experience climbing semi-technical to technical peaks with long ascents and descents, you may be qualified to tackle Baruntse and other 7000M peaks in the Himalayas. It's important to consider your previous expedition experiences and determine if you have the necessary skills and comfort with climbing techniques, such as using ropes and climbing gear, ascending and descending fixed lines, and handling cold conditions at high altitudes.
Fitness level - 4
We have graded fitness level 4 for Mount Baruntse. To successfully climb Mount Baruntse, a high level of physical fitness is necessary. This includes exceptional overall fitness, endurance, and strength. Mental toughness is also essential for these demanding expeditions. Prior experience on semi-technical to technical peaks with long ascent and descent sections is preferred for this challenge. It is important to be in top shape and have the necessary skills to tackle this physically demanding climb.
To prepare for the physical demands of climbing Mount Baruntse, it is recommended to have an exceptional level of all-around fitness. This may include the ability to run a half marathon or marathon, cycle for 2-3 hours, or hike with a load of 20 kilograms for 3-4 hours. Additionally, mental toughness and previous climbing experience will also be beneficial for success on this expedition.
Good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.
Skills to be learned.
Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.
Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, traversing and hiking with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.
Climbers belaying loads down West Col, Baruntse expedition.
As climbers joining Baruntse expedition will already have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.
With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.
Challenge yourself.
Go. Live Your Story
Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 7000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.
Baruntse New Route (West Face "A Heavenly trap")
New West face route. Heavenly trap. 2021 May Completed by two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh
Two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and fellow Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh completed a new route ascent to Baruntse 7129M in alpine style via the west face route which they named as “Heavenly trap” (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m). They dedicated this route line to their friend Petr Machold & Kuba Vanek, who passed away in this same route 8 years ago.
Marek true to his alpine style described this as one of his hardest climbs. On top, they completed this feat during Cyclone YASS. The pair originally planned and packed for 6 days of the climb instead they had to spend 10 days up in the walls with 7 bivouac camps. Sounds gnarly and super intense. Marek outlines and gives us a glimpse they suffered and endured everything that was thrown at them.
COMPARING BARUNTSE TWO ROUTES
Standard route vs Heavenly trap. Difference of Classic mountaineering style vs Alpine style
In the image above you can see the difference between the two routes (In Green - Heavenly trap, Alpine-style vs In Blue - Standard route, classic mountaineering style). Almost all expedition companies (including Namas Adventure/EXPEDITION) organize Baruntse expedition with classic mountaineering style. This style and route are easier and safer if you compare it with the alpine climbing style. Not to say mountaineering style is easy but when making the comparison it is pretty much clear which climbing style is tougher.
Two Alpine style routs of Baruntse. Russain-Efimov 1995 & Czech 2021.
We highlight some of the moments from this epic climb.
“The Heavenly Trap” route (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m). Westface. Baruntse. Image courtesy - Alpine Magazine.
21st May 2021 - Soon after navigating the glaciers they had to bivouac just below the base of the mountain.
22nd May 2021 - 10 Hours on crampons and climbing. Hard ice climb starts from the lower section. Tougher sections as they climb higher. Bivouac in sitting position.
23rd May 2021 - Good weather. Diagonal lead climb. Slow progress and lots of energy used. Tent in snow rib and bivouc.
24th May 2021 - Most difficult passage of the ascent. Climbing during heavy snowfall. Snowfall and wind all night.
25th May 2021 - Bad weather, no option but to climb. Plan to summit early but with snowfall and wind making it tough on the mixed section which will take all day. Summit around 4 PM in foggy conditions and low visibility. No summit cheers or photos as the weather are at its extreme. Set up the tent and wait it out.
26th - 28th May 2021 - Devlisih weather. Struggling even to boil water or take a piss. Wet, cold, frozen and pray it all settles down. Clears snow several times from the tent.
29th May 2021 - Weather improves and this is the opportunity. Descends down 1000M. Risk of avalanche so descends slowly. Impossible to make it to the glacier hence the final and another brutal bivouac awaits.
30th May 2021 - Beautiful morning and with this opportunity they call helicopter evacuation via satellite phone. Finally, around 7 am the helicopter evacuates them and flies them to Lukla.
Radoslav "Radar" Groh (left) and Marek "Mara" Holecek (Right)
Find our more detailed interview provided by Marek in the climbing magazine and alpinist magazine.
Video
Want to climb Baruntse (Classic Mountaineering style) in the remote Makalu/Barun region of Nepal? For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Visual Journey of Baruntse Expedition - Namas Adventure
Baruntse Peak 7129M, Nepal
The experience of climbing Baruntse is one of the most thrilling climbs in the Makalu Barun Valley. Not only is the climb beautiful and raw but it is physically challenging. Land in the buzzing historic city of Kathmandu following then to the famous Lukla airport. From there trek through the Khumbu region to enter into thick jungles of the Barun Makalu region to climb the icy summits of Mera. After acclimatizing well at Mera, the following adventure leads to the summit of Baruntse.
Climbers pass through several beautiful villages and as we reach Mera BC our alpine camping begins. Once climbers reach Baruntse base camp we rest there and prepare for our Baruntse Summit. The climb demands an intermediate level of skill and past experience and our team members are made up of highly experienced climbers. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of Baruntse 7129M.
Boudhanath, Kathmandu
Arrive in the vibrant and beautiful city of Kathmandu. Our team picks you up from the airport and takes you to your hotel. There you rest and can explore the cities vibrant culture and traditions. Boudhanath (Buddhist shrine) is one of the places where you can explore.
Tenzing - Hillary Airport, Lukla, Khumbu, Nepal
Expect to reach early at the airport as most Lukla flights are in the morning. Once we arrive in Lukla (40 Min flight) our expedition starts. Porters load their packs meanwhile our climbers get their breakfast and excitement begins.
Trek through the beautiful villages passing through lush jungles and rugged trails. Climbers will come across the jungles of Rhododendron and other wild trees. Also, lots of mules and Sherpa porters along the first two days of the trek.
Trek through beautiful villages and stay in local tea houses
Monasteries and other cultural sites are a perfect detours to explore.
Once you enter Makalu Valley the mountains open them selves and climbers will be walking very close surrounded all around by the Himalayas.
Climbers can expect to see a lot of high and dry granite walls and Himalayas all around when trekking to higher tea houses and camps.
As soon as we enter Makalu Barun Nation park climbers will be able to see moraines and glaciers flowing through the Himalayas. Mera-la Glacier can be seen in the far distance just below the clouds.
Climbers and porters climbing Mera - La glacier, ascending higher to Mera high camp. From Mera-la the real alpine mountaineering begins.
Mera High Camp 5460M is one of the most interesting high camps during your expedition. We camp here for a night before making our early summit push to Mera Peak summit.
Mera Summit 6476M. This is one of the most spectacular and accessible climbs for anyone with even no climbing experience before. Mera summit offers a 360 panoramic view of surrounding Himalayan peaks. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and other uncountable amounts of 6000M and 7000M peaks are visible on a clear summit day. A visual galore to satisfy your adventure soul.
Heading towards Seto Pokhari
After Mera Peak summit, the journey heads further deep into Hunku valley taking us through base of Chamlang and other Himalayan peaks finally arriving at Baruntse base camp 5460M.
Namas team, Baruntse base camp.
Puja ceremony at Baruntse Base camp. After a day of rest, puja is organised seeking permission from the mountain god for safe passage when climbing the mountains. A monk recites and performs the rituals meanwhile all the climbers take care in this ceremony. Spirits are high and blessings are offered and everyone is to be ready for their final part of the expedition. Mentally, physically and spiritually.
West Col to Camp 1 (6100M) is one of the challenging objectives of the expedition. Once climbers leave from base camp, it takes about 2 hours to reach the crampon point. All expedition gears are then worn and after another 45 min hike on icy surface climbers reach the base of 200M vertical wall. After 2-3 hours of jumaring climbers arrive on a flat Baruntse plateau. The lead guide then advises all the team where to set up the first camp.
Camp 2 (6400M)
Camp 2 (6400M) is a short 2 - 4 hour ascent about 400M - 500M high. Gradually going higher climbing team sets up the camp just below the Baruntse ridge.
Namas Guide Pega Sherpa can be seen descending/traversing the exposed Baruntse ridge at 7000M elevation.
Climbers leave early pushing for the Summit bid. Most of the climbing is done in the ridge section of Baruntse. This is the most challenging and dangerous section of the entire climb. After passing from three false summits finally, climbers will reach their ultimate destination. Expect a long and challenging climb.
Namas Baruntse team Pega, Nima and Chewang Sherpa successfully summited Baruntse 7129M and fixed the rope to the summit paving way for other team members.
🏔Makalu 8463M seen in the right hand side, Summit of Baruntse 7129M
Baruntse Summit 7129M. Lying just between the Great Lhotse wall and Makalu.
Fish eye view of Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M. Another ridge to Baruntse on the right. Everest and Lhotse in front of the climbers (between the clouds). This is the wall between Khumbu and Makalu/Huknu valley.
For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
2021 Best Mountaineering Boots 7000 - 8000M - Namas Adventure
Extreme high altitude mountaineering is a geared heavy activity. Specialised gears are a must and mountaineering boots specially fit in that category. Mountaineering boots should be considered as an investment, as these boots are not only meant for climbing but serve other crucial functions to keep your feet protected so that the climber's feet are warm, safe, and performing. Let’s talk about the best boots for 7000M - 8000M+ level. How many or which boots depend on your personal preference. i.e one pair of boots for 7000m and the other pair for 8000M+ or just one pair for all expeditions. First, let’s discuss the important functional features of the boots and the rest can come later. Below are 2021’s best extreme high altitude boots for 7000M- 8000M+ level. So if you are planning expeditions like Baruntse, Manaslu, Ama Dablam, Himlung Himal, or Mt. Everest these are the boots we highly recommend. First, let us help you be clear with the category of boot and crampons needed for this type of expedition.
Mountaineering boots and crampon category (More on Boots category blog post):
B3 Boots (7000M & 8000M+)
B3 boots are designed for extreme mountaineering. This category of boots has the stiffest soles and uppers available, providing lateral and medial support for front pointing, step-kicking, and traversing on steep terrain giving climbers a high level of traction for the most challenging conditions. This category includes high-altitude double boots as well as lighter technical climbing models. These boots allow both heels and toe welts to allow fitting of C2 - C3 crampons to take advantage of the easy step-in attachment system of heel clip and toe bar. B3 boots are the best when it comes to innovations and standards of high-altitude mountaineering boots.
Insulations
Double
As the name suggests double boots feature a structured outer boot combined with an insulating liner boot that can be removed. They are generally slightly heavier than single boots and are bulkier, but they do offer that extra level of warmth. They can also be easier to dry in more remote locations, but the inner booties can be worn while you are tucked inside your sleeping bags.
Triple
This is a hybrid mountaineering boot and is becoming increasingly popular amongst both the makers and climbers when it comes to extreme mountaineering. Perhaps more similar to a single boot with the addition of an integrated gaiter for extra warmth and snow protection, this also helps to keep them drier than a single boot. If they do become wet, you can’t dry them as easily as you can a double boot.
Lacing system
Standard lacing system
Like the name suggest standard lacing system are the same as in any boots. The only benefit of this to BOA system is, should it break or is damaged it is easily replaceable with other extra laces. Like any normal shoelaces.
Boa system
BOA systems are a handy and easy method to loosen or tighten your shoes. Simply rotate the screws to tighten or pop open and adjust your feet to loosen. The only downside of this system is that it is hard or impossible to repair when you are climbing in the mountains. We have a kind of love-hate relationship with this, very convenient on one end and if it breaks we have no way to repair it especially in the mountains.
Crampons category
C2
C2 crampons are referred to as mixed, hybrids, or semi-step crampons. These crampons are ideal for winter climbing and alpinism. The binding system of C2 crampons is compatible with B2 and B3 boots as they require a stiff sole and heel groove to lock onto. Traditionally C2 crampon usually has 10-12 points that include secondary spikes, that are semi-sharp.
C3
C3 crampons combine a metal toe bail with a plastic heel lever and as a result, they are referred to as ‘Step in’. The Step-in system requires very stiff boots with both a crampon heel and toe groove, because of this they are only compatible with B3 mountaineering boots. C3 crampons normally have 12-14 points that offer the best performance on steep icy slopes and technical mixed routes. Additionally, aggressive front points offer the best penetration on hard ice and on some models the front tips are replaceable. These are ideal for the hardest winter climbs and high-altitude ascents.
Famous ones:
La Sportiva - Olympus Mons Cube
When it comes to mountaineering and boots La Sportiva is one of the market leaders and they do make amazing mountaineering boots. Olympus Mons Cube is their latest non plus ultra of technicality for Himalayan mountaineering, arctic crossings, and uses in extremely cold conditions. The boot is 100% made in the Dolomites and guarantees lightweight, quick fit, safety, and water repellent for the mountaineer. The model features extremely contained external volumes, for a dual thermal high mountaineering boot and reduced weight compared to the previous version becoming the lightest model in its category.
Boot Features
Gaiter: Water repellent, stretch Cordura® + extremely high abrasion-resistant fabric with UltraSonic Welding technology and internal heat sealing + inner water repellent gusset
Inner Shell: High tenacity Nylon uppers + PE with different densities + thermo-reflective aluminum
Lacing: Double Boa® Fit System in the upper part and in the lower part of the shell for differentiated lacing
Removable double bootie: High cut outer layer: 6 mm PE + EVA Single Density with Flex Zone and double hook&loop closure - Low cut inner layer: 4 mm PE + EVA Single Density
Insole: Insulating carbon HoneyComb 3 mm + Gold Insulation Aerogel 3 mm by PrimaLoft®
Midsole: TPU 2 mm polyurethane with differentiated thickness at the toe and heel for attaching the crampon + front insert for tech skialp binding
Sole: Combination of Vibram® Litebase and Vibram® MorFlex® Expanded EVA for maximum lightweight, abrasion resistance and thermal insulation
Weight: 1.300 g (1/2 pair)
Sizes: 38 - 48 (+ 1/2) (49-50 on request)
Scarpa - Phantom 8000
Worn by Nims Dai and the Nepalese team who summited the first K2 Winter climb. So you can be certain that these boots are bound to perform in the extremes. The Phantom 8000 represents the very pinnacle of SCARPA design to create the warmest technical boot for use on the world’s highest and coldest mountains. Built around the expedition-proven double boot concept, the innovative Phantom 8000 uses state of the art construction materials for lightweight, waterproof, and warmth. The gaiter now had an offset waterproof zip to make the outer boot even easier to get on and off when wearing gloves. The inner shell is now even warmer as well as easier to operate. Wintherm technology creates a secondary layer of insulation under the gaiter. The Sock-fit XT tongue combined with the new fast lock lace system and fast strap closure make it even easier to get a close, precise fit, with no pressure points over the foot.
Boot Features
Crampon Rating C3
Inner Boot Altitude 8000
Insole Carbon Fiber + EVA + Aerogel®
Last Outer Boot- HAR8 Liner- RL
Sole Vibram 0 Gravity Lite
Upper PU-Tek + S-Tech + H-Dry®
Weight 2650g pair 42
Millet - Everest Summit GTX
Millets iconic EVEREST SUMMIT GTX is their benchmarking boot built for most extreme conditions. Recco tracking technology is integrated into their boots. Technically pre-eminent with its absolutely protective and thermal design. This boot project’s hand-made Italian quality has played a major role in the history of mountaineering. Designed for a universal fit, which convinces all feet. Yannick Graziani wore this model when scaling the south face of Annapurna: it protected him from the biting cold of this inhospitable wall and the irreversible effects of frostbite. This "five-season" product is designed for extreme winters and expeditions at very high altitudes. Guaranteeing protection down to -60°C, the EVEREST SUMMIT GTX is the boot most widely used for off-the-scale trips thanks to its ample interior, giving highly accessible fit. No need to have a slim foot to benefit from its excellent performance-to-precision ratio. A boot ready to step into any faraway adventure - but above all, the adventures you invent for it.
Boots Features
Fabric technologies: Aero therm, Gore tex, Primaloft, Recco, Vibram
thermal construction: outer boot + shell + inner boot, isothermal to -60°c precise fit,
crampon compatible rigid plantar support
waterproof gaiter, anti
perforation upper, zip closure with reflective velcro over flap
Armor edge fabric on medial to protect from crampon damage
strong insulated inner shell, easy
quick lacing
high thermal efficiency inner boot, insulated insole
lightweight, precise mountaineering outsole
Not so Famous brands
Asolo - Manaslu 8000 GV
Technical and high-altitude mountaineering and extreme use in cold environments. Developed in collaboration with the Asolo Test Team the model is engineered for extreme alpinism and low temperatures use guaranteeing maximum performances. This is Asolo’s triple-layer boots. The external gaiter guarantees resistance to abrasion and thermal insulation. Their zip closure system is meant for fast, waterproof, and precision when putting on thier boots.
Boot Features
OUTER GAITER: High tenacity stretch Cordura + neoprene + Schoeller Soft Shell + Pu rand
GAITER LINING: Gore-Tex Extended Comfort Footwear
SHELL: Cordura laminated with aluminum film + polyethylene 3 mm
SHELL LINING: Polyesthilene + polyester
INNER BOOT: Cordura laminated with aluminum film + polyethylene 3mm
INNER BOOT LINING: Primaloft 400 grams
LASTING BOARD: Carbon fiber
ANATOMIC FOOTBED: Manaslu Primaloft + no woven textile
SOLE: Vibram Betulla + toe reinforcement in full Vibram rubber; microporous midsole + Tpu crampon attachments
FIT: Man
WEIGHT: 1.250 (g) (1/2 pair size 8 UK)
SIZE: 7-12 UK
Boreal - G1 EXPE
G1 Expe is a triple layer boot consisting of an integrated outer gaiter, mid-layer ‘shell’, and a removable inner bootie. The outer gaiter has a soft and comfortable elasticated cuff with both zip and strap closures for failsafe reliability. The lower portion of the gaiter is insulated with encapsulated layers of triple Thinsulate™ and polyethylene and is reinforced with an extremely rip-resistant material in the high wear zones. A new synthetic rand material has been used which is lighter and warmer than rubber and won’t perish in the high U.V light conditions found at high altitude. The outer surface of the mid-layer boot is constructed entirely from lightweight synthetic textile and lined with a tough and waterproof/breathable Cordura reinforced laminate. Sandwiched between is a 6mm layer of EVA foam for excellent thermal insulation. Our new ‘Tanka’ lace closure system is simple, secure, and easy to manage while wearing gloves.
Boot Features
UPPERS: Composed of three layers: A fully integrated and highly insulated outer gaiter, mid-layer shell, and removable inner bootie
OUTER BOOT: Integrated outer gaiter is a waterproof and highly breathable material with a waterproof membrane and fully Thermo sealed seams. Reinforcement panels in extra durable and tear-resistant material. The lower portion of the gaiter insulated with Thinsulate and polyethylene layers. Premium quality waterproof TIZIP. Shell: One-piece lightweight Teramida with Lorica and neoprene. 6mm EVA foam insulation layer and Cordura waterproof breathable lining. 1.4mm neoprene insole for thermal insulation. Easy to use 'Tanka' lace closure system. Lightweight TPU rand for durability
INNER BOOT: Bootie made from very lightweight and extremely insulative triple layer laminate. A heat-reflective aluminum film is bonded to a durable polyurethane outer layer and insulative EVA foam on the internal side. Boreal Dry-Line® waterproof breathable lining with fully Thermo sealed seams. Triple Thinsulate® layers (no adhesives used) surround the foot guaranteeing maximum thermal protection with no cold spots. The sole of the bootie is covered with a durable textured TPU surface. Easy-adjust 'Tanka' and strap closure system with the adjustable fit around the instep area
MIDSOLE: Ultralight Boreal PBG-680 carbon composite midsole with lateral torsion control. Unique Thinsulate® lining for superior underfoot thermal insulation
SOLE: Vibram Betulla super lightweight and highly insulative outsole in special low-density EVA / rubber mix. Dual-density EVA and PU shock absorbing layers. Differential hardness TPU toe and heel pieces for automatic crampons
USAGE: Extremely cold conditions. High altitude mountaineering. 8000m peaks.
WEIGHT: 2610 grs./pair (size 7 UK)
Fitwell - GNARO 8000
The warmest and lightest boot of its kind made with the best materials currently available. Cordura® fabric with ceramic paste coat to capture UV rays and heating the hull. Gaiter lined and coupled with waterproof Event® membrane for water and wind resistance. Oblique polyurethane coated zipper, watertight closure, easy opening and closing with gloves. Rubber rand 1.6mm thickness, anti-wear and anti-scratch. Hull structure: inside Cordura® coupled with EVA and aluminum film with Velcro closure for the highest foot comfort. Multi-layer lightweight, thermal liner, aluminum lined, absorbent felt and thermal wadding. Anti-slip insole. Carbon insole coupled with a nanotech insole reaching the highest standards of lightness and insulation.
Boot Details:
UPPER: Cordura® + Superfabric®
GAITER LINING: Waterproof eVent® fabric
INNER SHELL: Cordura® + felt + alluminium
INNER BOOT: Primaloft® + felt + aluminum
INSOLE: Carbon alveolar + Aerogel®
SOLE: Vibram® Mulaz Evo + EVA
CRAMPON: Automatic C2 or C3
More details
Kailas - Everest Boots 8000M
Boot details:
Extremely wear-resistant and durable - Outer shell made of Dyneema® mesh, YKK Waterproof zip, puncture-resistant fabric and efoam mudguard Supremely warm and comfort - Inner boot made of PE insulation and thermo-reflective aluminum film and Graphene insulation that keeps you warm at -60℃dynamically. PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Aerogel at forefoot and toes can withstand a low temperature of -78℃.
Boot Features
Single/Double: Double
Weight: 1300g (size 42)
Gaiter: Wear-resistant Dyneema® mesh / efoam mudguard / puncture-resistant fabric / YKK Waterproof zip/ 3M reflective graphic
Outer boot: Bulletproof laces / QFS(Quick Fitting System)
Inner boot: Graphene insulation / PE insulation / Thermo-reflective aluminum film / Extremely durable TPU
Insole: 3 layers: anti-bacterial and anti-odor foam, non-woven polyester and thermo-reflective aluminum film PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Aerogel at forefoot and toes
Midsole: Lightweight and high-strength carbon fiber lasting board
Outsole: Vibram® ultralight outsole for alpine climbing. Completely crampon compatible.
Lacing system: Velcro closure, YKK zip, bulletproof laces
More details
Conclusion
Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With companies innovating and developing high-performing boots out there it is much safer for climbers now more than ever. We have listed some of the most famous ones to lesser-known brands which are still amazing boots. We cannot stress this enough but quality (highest) matters. You do not want to lose your toes or suffer from any frostbite incidents. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes.
Which mountaineering boots do you prefer and why did you choose that particular boot? Please comment below :)
Go. Take on your peak.
Live Your Story
When to climb Baruntse? (Spring or Autumn) - Namas Adventure
Are you wondering when the best time is to plan a Baruntse peak expedition in Nepal? Many climbers ask us this question. Based on our experience running expeditions and input from our experienced guides who regularly climb in the region, the best time for you to climb may depend on your personal preferences. Fortunately, Baruntse peak is suitable for climbing in both the spring and autumn seasons. In the following information, we will outline the conditions typically experienced during these seasons to help you decide which is the best fit for you.
Spring sees a lot more snow compared to autumn. After the winter and with ongoing spring showers, you can expect deep or fresh snow in the mountains. There appear to be more crevasse openings during the spring season. The fresh snow in the mountain definitely makes breaking the trail a lot harder (which the strong Sherpas are happy to do for you) and climbers can expect some weather-related disturbances on their planned summit window. Therefore, you should expect delays due to weather conditions. If you enjoy an extra challenge in high-altitude peak climbing, then spring expeditions might be for you. Spring definitely tests your patience, especially when things don't go according to plan and teams have to improvise a lot. That's why spring sees fewer climbers on other peaks (excluding Everest and Lhotse) compared to autumn. However, when spring does open up with a clear weather window, it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal.
Recorded Summits - There haven’t been any commercial expedition summits at Baruntse. (2005 - 2022). In 2021 Spring summit's success was recorded via a new route, alpine style by Marek Czech and Russian climbers.
Autumn is a popular time for climbers to attempt peaks in Nepal. The air is clean and crisp after the monsoon, and the snow on the Himalayan peaks has typically melted and settled compared to the deep, snowy conditions of spring. This makes climbing conditions more favorable. The autumn season begins in September and usually sees snowfall towards the end of November, with heavy falls expected as winter approaches. Baruntse also sees more teams attempting to climb during this period, although there are still fewer climbers compared to other famous expeditions like Ama Dablam or Manaslu.
Recorded Summits - Commercial expeditions have only been successful at Baruntse 7129M during the autumn season. (2006 - 2022). Namas team was able to successfully fix the ropes to the summit paving way for oncoming teams during the 2022 fall season.
Baruntse west col 5840M climb during Autumn season
Conclusion
No matter which season you prefer, climbing Baruntse and Mera is a challenging and rewarding experience. Spring offers deeper snow and more frequent showers, while autumn has less snow and stable, settled surfaces but shorter days. Both seasons offer a unique climbing experience and the opportunity to achieve a lifetime accomplishment.
Question.
Which season do you plan to climb Baruntse and Mera Peak? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.
We organize Baruntse with Mera peak expedition every year during autumn. Planning to climb Baruntse one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.
Lets, go take on Baruntse and other peaks around the world. Go. Live Your Story.
2021 Best Mountaineering Down Suits - Namas Adventure
Photo by - Matt Irving / National Geographic
Down suits are probably the most visible aspect when coming across images of extreme high altitude mountaineering. They are also the must clothing gear along with other specialized clothing. But in this post, we are here to talk about down suits only. They don’t come cheap and aren't supposed to. These are highly specialized suits built to perform and protect climbers from extreme cold conditions in some of the most hostile places. On any high altitude expedition like Mt. Everest, Manaslu, Baruntse, or Ama Dablam comes with both good and extremely windy cold climbing days. Your down suit should be versatile enough to perform in both conditions. Below are some of the best down suits we can recommend for any climbers who are preparing for their 7000M - 8000M+ expeditions.
Probably the most famous and well know suit. With the brand North face which is well known for their adventure clothing products, their down suits are one of the best in the industry. North Face down suits is also worn by famous North face athletes like Renan Ozturk, Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker. Probably because they are part of the team but also these athletes have helped the company to test and build these suits. Some of the down suit features
800 fill goose down offers superior warmth, while 700 fill goose down in the lower body provides compression resistance
Welded baffle construction eliminates cold spots and weak points that accompany needle holes
Extra-long, two-way center front double zip with full-length draft tube
Coated with durable water-repellent (DWR) finish for added water repellency
Full-leg zips finish in a horseshoe drop-seat configuration
Adjustable hood is fully baffled for reliable warmth and zero cold spots
Intuitive, sleek, and secure integrated suspender system
Korean adventure brand Black Yak is relatively new in the European market with their expedition suits. Their expedition suit is one of the most expensive almost double or even more than other leading expedition suit brands. From the high thermal efficiency to the multi-slider zippers with extended zipper pullers. Suit features
Double-stitched down chambers
performance-mapped insulation
High-tenacity 20 Denier CORDURA® fibers and CORDURA® fibers
750 goose down, 90/10 – RDS-certified
G-LOFT® synthetic insulation 120 GSM
Water protection lamination, Material mapped for performance, Stretch zone mapped for comfort
Insulated and baffled fitted hood and Auto-fitting hood
O2 set-compatible, Goggle-compatible
Windshield brim
Drought-free compression cuff
Glove/mitten fixing points
Kevlar®-reinforced seat
Kevlar®-reinforced harness/rock points
Outer snow gaiter with Kevlar® protection and gripper band
High altitude/ Expedition double boot-compatible
Hydration bladder-compatible
Kailas brand has been trusted and worn mostly by the Sherpa guides in the Himalayas. Partly because of the company supporting Sherpa climbing community in Nepal. People may lose their trust when it comes to China-made but Kailas has been specializing in mountain wears for quite some time and if the Sherpas have their full trust in them, rest assured we can be. Suit features
Fully taped seams for waterproof, windproof, and ventilation
DWR coating
Special treatment prevents down from shedding
Reinforced panels at elbows, knees, seat, and ankles
Waterproof front pockets
Low profile insulated hood with one-hand drawcord adjustment
Adjustable shoulder straps
Waterproof, breathable zippers at both sides of thigh
Oxygen-mask-compatible collar
Marmot - warm cube 8000M suit
Marmot is another well-known brand in the world of adventure. Their warm cube 8000M suit is that what you need on Icy winds, steep snow, and freezing cold conditions. When your adventures start with all of the above, you need gear that’s just as epic—and more. Marmot down Suit feature -
800-fill-power-down provides exceptional warmth, loft, and compatibility
Pertex Quantum® fabric is designed to protect from wind and improve the efficiency of insulation
Removable liner with WarmCube™ construction for ultra-comfortable warmth in extreme conditions when you need it
Adjustable suspenders with mesh back panel and front detach system for a customized fit and improved airflow
Attached hood with peripheral cord adjustment and insulated muff
4-way water-resistant center front zipper; 4-way rainbow seat zipper with stay-open hook
Dual internal mesh 1-liter water bottle pockets; Zippered hand and thigh pocket
Mountain Hardwear is another brand that holds a reputation when it comes to Hiamalayan gears and clothing. Their down suits has earned praises from many climbers. Some of the features of the suit are listed below
Q Shield™ Down: welded, watertight baffle construction
6-slider watertight rainbow rear-zip for easy on/off
Oxygen mask compatible collar
Low profile, insulated, fixed hood with one-handed drawcord for quick fit adjustments
Reinforced panels at elbows, knees, seat, and hem
90% Goose Down, 10% Goose Feather
British brand RAB is best known for specializing in their down-filled products. Down jackets for everyday lifestyle, adventures to the high Himalayan peaks. The Rab Expedition 8000 Suit has built on the best selling Rab Expedition Down Suit and has improved on an already class-leading down suit it has been designed for use in the harshest environments, specifically for use in extremely cold conditions at High Altitude and in the Polar Regions. RAB 8000M down suits features
Pertex® Endurance Outer Fabric and Pertex Quantum® Lining
850FP R.D.S. Certified European Goose Down (778g Size M)
Rab® Fluorocarbon free Hydrophobic Down developed in conjunction with Nikwax®
Box-wall construction, differential cut
Helmet Compatible down-filled Hood, wired peak
Front Zip Protection Flap
Extended LEngth YKK® front zip, 2-way zipper to allow toilet access
3 outer pockets, 2 internal mesh pockets
Full-Length YKK® side zips with multiple Pullers
Weight 1990g (size M)
Whichever suit you choose at the end the listed suits above are amongst the best in the industry. Fabrics and technology have progressed so far that it’s amazing to see how far these suits have come since the early days of the expedition. You can rest assured of the performance when it comes to its utility and then it comes down to the brand you prefer, colors, styles, sustainability values, and reviews.
Conclusion
Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With adventure brands innovating and developing high-quality down suits you have more options now. We have listed some of the most famous down suits out there in the market today. We cannot stress this enough but quality (highest) matters. This is the last place on earth where you would not have adequate clothing gear. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes so you’ll need the best of the best which are listed above.
Which mountaineering down suit will you buy for your upcoming extreme expedition? Please comment below :)
Suit up. Climb on.
Live Your Story
Everything you need to know about Himlung Himal 7126M climbing Expedition - Namas Adventure
Himlung Himal summit 7126M. Rikka 2022 Fall expedition.
Himlung Himal, standing at 7126 meters, is a popular and relatively safe choice for climbers looking to tackle a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. Located in the rain shadow region of mid-western Nepal, this mountain offers a semi-technical climbing route with fixed ropes available to help you reach the summit. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snow, with a steep, exposed ascent to the top. Sherpa guides from different groups often work together to set up the ropes on climbing days. If you're seeking a high-altitude climbing adventure or are looking to progress to 8000M peaks or difficult challenging peaks, Himlung Himal is a must-climb.
Overview:
Altitude: 7126M / 23,379ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate/Advanced
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: Late spring Mid April - May and September - October
Total no of days: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camp 1/2/ 3(Optional)
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Himlung Himal peak climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Himlung Himal?
Himlung Himal is best suited to climb during the mid-spring season around mid-April to May or during the early autumn season; just towards the end of the monsoon season. End of August to the end of October.
Note - Himlung is one of the remote climbing peaks with very few teams attempting the climb every year. You can be certain there won’t be many climbers or traffic during your expedition.
2. How much does the Himlung Himal expedition cost? What does it include?
Join the Namas Adventure team for a Himlung Himal expedition at a cost of $9050 per person. Our all-inclusive peak climbing services are of the highest quality and prioritize your safety with a 1:1 guide-client ratio, several successful summits, 100% safety records, and cultural immersion. As a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand, we are committed to our core values and ensuring that you can fully enjoy your climbing holiday without worrying about any logistics. With our team by your side, you can focus on the fun and adventure ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa Guide /client ratio
Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers (Assistants increase with the number of climbing team members )
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Annapurna Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried or meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options, etc)
Chocolate, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
3. What experience do climbers need to climb Himlung Himal? Are guides necessary for Himlung Himal climb?
Experiences - It is essential for climbers to have previous high-altitude alpine/mountaineering experience (at or above 3000 meters) in order to successfully climb Himlung or other 7000-meter peaks. While this experience does not necessarily need to be in Nepal, it is important for climbers to be comfortable using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, proficient in using fixed ropes to climb steep and exposed sections, and familiar with the use of climbing gear and basic rope techniques such as tying safety knots and abseiling. Mental toughness and the ability to withstand cold and windy conditions are also crucial for climbers attempting Himlung or other major expeditions in Nepal. The use of jumars and rappelling/abseiling skills will be necessary for descending the mountain, and it is important for climbers to have the strength and endurance to sustain these activities for an extended period of time.
Local Guides - According to Nepalese law, all climbers attempting peaks above 6000 meters must be accompanied by a guide. To obtain a permit for climbing Himlung Himal, it is necessary to go through a registered local company. For intermediate-level climbers, we strongly recommend hiring a guide for this peak due to the presence of crevasses and other potential hazards along the usual climbing route. However, if you are an experienced climber with many successful climbs under your belt, you may wish to explore less traveled routes. In this case, it is still a good idea to have a guide as a backup in case of unexpected challenges.
4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Himlung Himal Expedition?
Proper acclimatization is crucial for the success and safety of high-altitude climbing trips. It allows the body to rest, adapt, and become stronger, enabling you to reach even higher elevations. At Namas Adventure, we take a slow and steady approach to high-altitude climbing, with itineraries that have been carefully crafted through our years of experience. This ensures that you are well-prepared and able to fully enjoy your adventure.
On the Himlung Himal expedition, we have established 2-3 high-altitude camps to allow climbers sufficient time to acclimatize. This helps to ensure that you are properly adapted to the high altitude and able to successfully reach the summit. Our experienced guides will help you to monitor your progress and provide guidance and support throughout the trip to help you reach your goals.
More details are on our Himlung Himal climbing strategy.
5. What training is required for Himlung Himal? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
Himlung Himal is a great mountain for anyone looking to tackle their first 7000-meter peak or a semi-technical, high-altitude expedition. It is known to be one of the easier and safer 7000-meter mountains, with a high success rate. However, it is important to note that no mountain peak is easy to climb and we do require interested climbers to have previous high-altitude experience (at or above 3000 meters) in order to participate. If you are seeking a challenging yet achievable climbing adventure, Himlung Himal may be the perfect mountain for you.
Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. It can be difficult to simulate the specific challenges you will face on the mountain, such as crossing crevasses, in your training. However, there are some general fitness activities that can help you to build endurance, strength, and core stability. These may include long-distance running (10K - 20K), long-distance hiking (6 hours+), cycling, and hiking with a weighted backpack. We recommend scheduling your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure to ensure that you are in peak physical condition. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
6. How hard is Himlung Himal climbing expedition?
Himlung Himal is graded at PD+ - AD/4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).
It is imperative that climbers are in top physical condition before embarking on the Himlung Himal expedition. The climb will be physically and mentally demanding, with a total of 15 days of alpine climbing. Proper acclimatization, hydration, and nutrition are key to coping with the altitude and breathing challenges. The real alpine challenge begins when we depart from the base camp, also known as the French base camp, and encounter glaciers and ice surfaces on the climb. The route to the summit involves traversing some uphill, slippery sections, as well as traversing some crevasses. The campsites are located in wider sections of the mountain, reducing the risk of setting up camp on exposed cliffs. Fresh snow is also a possibility along the route. Proper training in endurance and strength should have prepared your body to handle these challenges.
7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Himlung Himal climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Himlung Himal climb?
The right gear is essential for a successful and comfortable climb. We recommend that climbers invest in high-quality gear and clothing, and pay attention to layering in order to stay warm in the cold temperatures that can drop as low as -10C/-20C at night. It is important not to skimp on quality, as you will be relying on your gear to keep you warm and comfortable during the climb. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Is it a good idea to rent climbing gear in Nepal? In our experience, we do not recommend it. We have tried various gear rentals in Nepal and have not been satisfied with the quality. While it may seem expensive to purchase all the necessary gear, it is worth the investment in the long run. You can also consider renting gear from reputable adventure gear companies in your own city. Gears of well-known adventure brands such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, or Kailas are recommended. Make sure to choose original products from trusted brands to ensure the best performance and safety on your climb.
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Himlung Himal
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. What types of foods are available during Himlung Himal climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition
To ensure proper hydration, we recommend that all clients drink 4-6 liters of water per day. It is helpful to bring hydration tablets or filtration bottles. Obtaining water at higher camps can be difficult, so our team will do their best to boil snow and provide water at higher camps and during the summit push. Most meals are prepared in tea houses, and during climbing days, our Sherpa team sets up kitchen tents at the base camp. Sherpa guide members will cook quick meals at higher camps. While it can be difficult to eat enough in cold, high altitudes, it is important to try to force yourself to eat. We also provide packed dried meals as an alternative option.
It is important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the Ama Dablam expedition. While it may be common to see the guiding leaders engage in these activities, they are professionals who have adapted well to high-altitude environments. As a climber on this adventure holiday, it is important to prioritize your health and well-being by abstaining from these harmful habits. Remember to also pay attention to your diet and hydration, as these will greatly affect your performance on the mountain.
9. What trip insurance will I need for Himlung Himal climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval from your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts and a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Himlung Himal climbing
After completing your Himlung Himal climb we would like to recommend the following challenging expeditions
1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here
Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
2. Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Click here
Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.
3. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal
Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition
Himlung Himal climbing expedition is one of the remote trek and climbing destinations in Nepal. As we will be able to many more expeditions down the year we believe Himlung Himal Expedition can be one of the classic mountaineering adventures at 7000M level that will be accessible and climbable for upcoming climbers. The charm of its remote location tucked away in the not-so-popular area of Nepal, beautiful trek through the Annapurna valley and nomad culture makes the whole trip experience an amazing adventure. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Himlung climbing expedition. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you on board for our Himlung Himal expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Climb - Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition
10 important things to know about Ama Dablam climbing Expedition - Namas Adventure
Ama Dablam 6810M
Ama Dablam is known for its stunning beauty and is a highly sought-after mountain for mountaineering enthusiasts. It is considered a challenging climb on its own and is often viewed as a "must-do" for those who are interested in alpinism and mountaineering. Many people choose to tackle Ama Dablam either before or after attempting a larger expedition like climbing Mount Everest.
History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ama Dablam's expedition has been a dream for many mountaineers. Its Southwest ridgeline is the safest route to climb this amazing peak.
We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Ama Dablam peak climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Ama Dablam?
Ama Dablam is best suited to climb during three climbing seasons.
Spring (Mid-April-May) - There are hardly any climbers during the spring season solely because major expedition companies are focused on the Everest expedition. Climbers seeking fewer teams and climbers on the route are recommended to climb during spring.
and Autumn (September - November) - Autumn attracts a lot of climbers. You can expect a lot of teams climbing from Mid October - November end. November - December is less busy but a tad colder compared to peak October expedition.
Early Winter (December - January) - Winter climbs are for the extra gritty challenge seekers. This is another best time of the year when there are very few climbers and the Everest trails are quieter. Winter officially begins on 21st December. As expected be ready to brace for crispy cold and an unexpected gust of wind.
Note - Ama Dablam is the 3rd most sought technical climbing peak in the Khumbu region, with the majority of the permits being issued during the autumn season.
Namas guide Kami at Summit of Ama Dablam. 2024 November
2. Climbing route and difficult sections, mountain grading of Ama Dablam climbing
All major commercial expeditions use the Southwest Ridge section route of the mountain. Ama Dablam expedition is graded at TD / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine / Fitness grading link).
Exposed section after Camp 2.
This expedition involves steep vertical mixed climbing on rock, ice, and snow. You must be in excellent physical and mental condition to tackle this challenging climb. Do not underestimate the difficulty of this mountain. Your previous climbing experience will help you gauge your fitness level and understand how to safely tackle the climb. With proper preparation and guidance from our team, you can achieve your dream of climbing Ama Dablam. The sheer vertical ascent of this mountain will likely be one of the toughest climbs you have ever attempted. However, the breathtaking beauty and exhilarating experience of reaching the summit make it all worth it. Are you ready to push yourself physically and mentally to reach the summit of Ama Dablam? It will surely be one of the most memorable peaks you ever climb."
Notable technical Sections at Ama Dablam climb.
Note - Your entire climb from camp 1 to the summit will be assisted by a fixed rope.
Climbing to Camp 2 “Yellow Tower”
Images by Jackson Groves / Journey Era
The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is one of the most technically challenging parts of the expedition. The climb to the top of Yellow tower involves a 90-degree vertical ascent. This section of the route is graded anywhere from 4.11 to 5.7 - 5.10 in rock climbing terms. It's important to consider the impact of altitude, carrying a backpack, cold weather, and ice conditions on the mountain while attempting this climb.
Mushroom Ridge 6250M (Between Camp 2 and Camp 3)
This section of the route is not for the faint-hearted, as you will need to carefully climb up and scramble on the steep rocky face of the mountain before reaching an exposed knife-edge ridge. Walk carefully across the ridge, which has 600-meter drops on both sides, before continuing your climb towards Camp 3.
3. How much does Ama Dablam expedition cost and what does it include?
The cost of the Ama Dablam and Island Peak expedition with Namas Adventure (Please click here for cost). Our team provides premium, all-inclusive services, including 1:1 climbing support, local guides who share their knowledge of culture and traditions, and a focus on safety, successful summit strategy, and top-quality base camp support. Our team is dedicated to being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure operator, so climbers can fully enjoy their climbing experience.
List of what’s included in your booking.
IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa Guide /client ratio.
Head chef and assistants ( Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members )
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
30 kgs personal weight
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/GPS
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
The arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. Are guides necessary for Ama Dablam Peak?
Climbing Ama Dablam requires a permit, which can only be obtained through a registered local company in Nepal. It is mandatory by Nepalese law to have a guide on high altitude peaks above 6,000 meters. We recommend hiring a guide for climbers of all levels, as a successful expedition requires a strong team with a proficient base camp crew and experienced, competent, and trustworthy climbing Sherpa guides.
5. Choosing the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Ama Dablam
Proper acclimatization is crucial for success on any high-altitude climbing expedition. Our team follows the "climb high, sleep low" mantra and will conduct rotations to Camp 1 and 2 as part of our acclimatization strategy. Through our years of experience, we have carefully crafted the itinerary to ensure the best possible chance of success for your expedition.
6. How difficult is it to climb Ama Dablam? What training and skills are required?
Ama Dablam, also known as the "mountaineer's mountain," is a challenging climb that requires experience and determination to reach the summit. The route from the base camp to Camp 1 (5800 meters) involves climbing moraines and a rocky boulder uphill. The fixed line normally starts after Camp 1, where the climb becomes more technical. The climb to Camp 2, located on top of the Yellow Tower, is the first crux of the climb, requiring a 60-70 foot vertical granite ascent at 20,000 feet. The mushroom ridge from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is another challenge, and Camp 3 is only set up once the guide leader determines it is safe. From Camp 3, climbers head up the pyramid to the summit, which involves an exposed climb on 55-65 degree slopes. The descent is difficult, especially on tired legs, and requires careful focus.
Training for Ama Dablam
To prepare for this challenging climb, it is important to focus on endurance, core, and strength training. This will help you to handle the vertical sections of the ascent, such as the "Yellow Tower" on the way to Camp 2. Suggested training activities include long-distance running, cycling, and hiking with added weight. It is recommended to begin training at least 12 weeks in advance of your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Skills
Additionally, taking advanced mountaineering classes can be helpful in learning technical skills like rope climbing and proper use of gear. For the Ama Dablam climb, it is recommended to be comfortable with multi-pitch climbs up to a grade of 5.10 a,b,c and to have experience with mixed climbing. Ice climbing skills up to WI-3 or WI-4 are recommended for spring climbs, although fixed-line ropes will be used for the steeper sections of the mountain.
You should be proficient with the above-mentioned mountaineering skills, climbing with ice axe support and abseiling independently in exposed mountain terrain. Be ready for a long descent when coming down from the summit. This is particularly where most of the incidents occur during this expedition. A few accidents did occur on this route when the climber did not properly attach the safety rope to the main fixed line when abseiling down the mountain.
Ama Dablam's climbing should not be taken lightly. By no means is the peak an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of several 4000M+ to 6000M+ technical climbing experience anywhere in the world. You have to be in your best physical fitness shape. All mountain expeditions are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. Successfully accomplishing the Ama Dablam expedition is a mixture of teams, skills, the right experiences, fitness, mental strength, weather, and other detailed mountain-climbing factors.
7. Right clothing, gear, and boots (trekking and mountaineering)? Rental options for Ama Dablam climbing?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gear and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10c /-20c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gear in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expense to buy all the gear, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Ama Dablam climb
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, and Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
More 8000M boots link here (other media article)
8. Hydration and nutrition
To ensure proper hydration, we recommend that all clients drink 4-6 liters of water per day. It is helpful to bring hydration tablets or filtration bottles. Obtaining water at higher camps can be difficult, so our team will do their best to boil snow and provide water at higher camps and during the summit push. Most meals are prepared in tea houses, and during climbing days, our Sherpa team sets up kitchen tents. While it can be difficult to eat enough in cold, high altitudes, it is important to try to force yourself to eat. We also provide packed dried meals as an alternative option.
It is important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the Ama Dablam expedition. While it may be common to see the guiding leaders engage in these activities, they are professionals who have adapted well to high altitude environments. As a climber on this adventure holiday, it is important to prioritize your health and well-being by abstaining from these harmful habits. Remember to also pay attention to your diet and hydration, as these will greatly affect your performance on the mountain.
9. Insurance and Helicopter evacuation for Ama Dablam Expedition
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance coverage. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval from your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
10. Next climbing goals after Ama Dablam climbing
It is only natural that as a climber, you would want to climb higher, more challenging peaks. Once you have successfully completed Ama Dablam, consider yourself one of the capable mountaineers. Climbers know that summiting Ama Dablam is no easy feat, so you should be able to take on even higher peaks, such as those over 8,000 meters, after this climb.
Mt. Everest Expedition 8848M
Everest Expedition - Image by Brad
Manaslu Expedition
Annapurna IV 7525M
Drone shot of Annapurna 4 expedition, camp 3 6550M
k2 8611m Expedition
K2 8611M
A successful Ama Dablam climbs with a strong yet fun environment expedition team, proper training, and planning before the expedition is possible. These are the things that are within your control. As we have stressed enough Ama Dablam climb is not an easy one and you will have to get every aspect right so that you have a better chance of completing your expeditions and have a great time. Join our fun-loving yet providing the best service and safety team on our yearly Ama Dablam Expedition. Our team would love to have you on board and make your dream of climbing Ama Dablam a success.
Ama Dablam Expedition - Click here
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.
Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.