Exploring the Summits: How Many Climbers Have summited Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South?
Annapurna massif range seen from Pokhara. Annapurna south (left), Machhapuchre Fish tail (middle), Annapurna 1, Annapurna 4, Annapurna 2 and Annapurna 3.
The Annapurna Range, with its towering peaks and breathtaking landscapes, has long captivated mountaineers in search of the ultimate challenge. From the notorious dangers of Annapurna 1 to the awe-inspiring beauty of Annapurna South, and from the treacherous slopes of Annapurna 2 to the demanding ascent of Annapurna 3, capped by the elusive and shy summit of Annapurna 4, each peak holds its own tale of triumph, endurance, and exploration. But how many have successfully conquered these majestic giants?
In this blog, we delve into the total number of summit records on Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South.
SUMMITS (1955 -2024)
Annapurna 1, 8091M: 476 Summits
Annapurna 2, 7937M: 16 Summits
Annapurna 3, 7555M: 34 Summits
Annapurna 4, 7525M: 138 Summits
Annapurna South, 7219M: 35 Summits
The Annapurna Range stands as one of the least climbed and most revered regions in the Himalayas. While the Khumbu region draws the majority of climbers to its towering peaks, the Annapurna range offers something different—a raw, untamed experience reserved for those seeking true wilderness and personal discovery.
In the modern era, where accolades and records often take precedence, the essence of mountaineering can sometimes be lost. But climbing in the Annapurnas isn’t about simply conquering a summit; it’s about embracing the journey, the hardships, and the introspection that comes with each step. These remote peaks demand respect, and the path to the top is often a deeply personal one.
The challenge of the Annapurna climbs lies not just in their technical difficulty, but in the solitude and purity they offer. With fewer climbers and less attention, these mountains become a sanctuary for true explorers, where every ascent feels like a pioneering achievement. You may even find yourself among the few who have reached these exclusive summits, but that isn't the ultimate goal.
For those seeking even more, we invite you to look beyond Annapurna. Western Nepal offers another realm of untouched beauty and challenging climbs. Dhaulagiri and Putha Hiunchuli, towering and remote, present some of the most pristine and unexplored expeditions in the Himalayas. However, that’s a journey deserving of its own story—one we’ll dive into in a different article.
Mountaineering is, at its core, about falling in love with the process—the struggle, the beauty, and the unpredictability of the climb. In the Annapurnas, the journey will shape you far more than the destination. And that is the heart of what climbing in these majestic mountains is truly about.
LIVE YOUR STORY
NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM
NAMAS team near the final section of Annapurna 4 summit, Annapurna 2, 7937M summit seen behind .
Everything You Need to Know About the Annapurna 1, 8091M Expedition
Annapurna 1, standing at 8,091 meters (26,545 feet), is the 10th highest peak in the world and is renowned for being one of the most challenging 8000M+ expeditions. Climbing this peak is a significant achievement that demands extensive preparation, endurance, and skill. Successful expeditions to Annapurna one have become more frequent, but the mountain remains one of the most difficult among the 8000-meter peaks. This comprehensive guide will cover everything you need to know about the Annapurna one expedition, including the best time to climb, costs, unique offerings by Namas Adventure, historical context, and essential logistics.
When is the Best Time to Climb Annapurna 1?
Spring (March-May) is considered the best time to climb Annapurna 1. During this period, the weather is relatively stable, climbing conditions are optimal, and temperatures are more manageable, reducing the risk of severe weather disruptions. The clear skies and favorable conditions make this the ideal window for a successful summit.
Cost of Annapurna 1 Expedition
Our cost for the Annapurna 1 expedition is detailed on our (website - click here). This includes premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, focusing on your safety, successful summit, experiencing local culture, and having fun. Here’s a detailed list of what's included in your booking:
Certified Guide Leader: Certified guide leader to ensure safety and expert guidance.
Helicopter Services: Shared helicopter services from Pokhara to Annapurna 1 base camp and from Base Camp to Pokhara.
Accommodations: Two nights before the expedition in Kathmandu and one night after the expedition in Pokhara and Kathmandu hotel.
Permits and Fees: All necessary trekking and climbing permits.
Gear and Equipment: Expedition tents (single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps) and other essential climbing equipment.
Oxygen Supply: 2 X supplemental oxygen cylinders for client use.
Meals and Logistics: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner on trek and expedition days, along with lodge accommodation during the trek.
Support Team: A head chef and kitchen helpers, additional Sherpa support, porters, and a comprehensive first aid kit.
Waste Management: Dedicated high-altitude porters to transport waste from higher camps to Base Camp for proper disposal.
For a detailed breakdown of what is included in the cost, please refer to the Annapurna 1 expedition PDF
Unique Value proposition by Namas Adventure
Namas Adventure distinguishes itself with a strong commitment to responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountaineering practices. Here are some key highlights of what sets us apart:
Annapurna specialist: Our team at Namas Adventure excels in extreme altitude mountaineering, especially within the Annapurna region. With unparalleled local knowledge and highly experienced guides, we are among the best teams to climb with on Annapurna 1.
Local Expertise: We possess extensive local expertise and strong connections to ensure a seamless and efficient expedition. Our seasoned guiding team is integral to the smooth running of your journey, allowing you to focus on the climb and the experience.
Individualized Preparations/Planning: Members participating in our Annapurna 1 team undergo strict pre-qualification checks. Once members sign up, we gain deeper insights into each client's needs and create personalized preparation plans. We understand that each member has a unique set of strengths, weaknesses, and requirements, so our approach is tailored to address these individual aspects effectively.
Premium client Services: To enhance safety and comfort, we provide convenient helicopter services, including flights to base camp after acclimatization hikes in the Annapurna region. Upon completion of the expedition, we offer a return from base camp to Pokhara, ensuring a stress-free travel experience.
Waste Management: Namas Adventure implements strict waste management protocols to minimize our environmental impact. This includes the use of WAGBAGs at higher camps and transporting waste to designated landfill sites, preserving the pristine beauty of the mountains.
Additional guide support system,: We prioritize personalized attention and safety with a high guide-to-client ratio, 1:1 guide-to-client arrangement with additional support Sherpa team in the team. Additional Sherpa support further ensures that every client receives the guidance and care needed for a successful and memorable expedition.
History, Significance, and the First Ascent
The first ascent of Annapurna 1 was achieved by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. This historic climb marked the first successful summit of an 8000-meter peak.
High Camps and Acclimatization Strategy
Annapurna 1 expeditions typically have four high camps:
Base Camp (4,190m/13,747ft)
Camp I (5,150m/16,896ft)
Camp II (5,700m/18,700ft)
Camp III (6,500m/21,325)
Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)
Summit (8,091m/26,545ft)
Our team will conduct an acclimatisation hike before reaching the base camp and then conduct two rotations between camps 1,2 and 3. The most common route to the summit of Annapurna 1 is the Northwest Ridge route.
Which is the most dangerous section in the Annapurna 1 expedition?
The most dangerous section of the Annapurna 1 climb lies between Camps 2, 3, and 4. This area is particularly hazardous due to its vertical geography, which includes avalanche-prone zones, hard blue ice, and massive hanging seracs, making the ascent extremely challenging.
The steep and exposed south face of Annapurna 1 rises 3,000 meters from the base camp to the summit, making it one of the most perilous climbs in the world. This face is notorious for its high risk of avalanches and rockfalls, posing significant dangers to climbers. The steep terrain, combined with frequent avalanches in this zone, further increases the difficulty and risk involved in the ascent.
What can climbers expect during the summit push on Annapurna 1?
The summit push on Annapurna 1 begins from Camp 4 at 7,400 meters. Climbers start their ascent in the early hours, navigating steep, icy slopes under the cover of darkness to avoid daytime avalanche risks. The route involves traversing hard blue ice and climbing through a series of seracs, which are massive, unstable blocks of ice. As daylight breaks, climbers encounter the steepest sections, requiring technical ice-climbing skills. The final approach to the summit is a narrow ridge with breathtaking views on either side, leading to the peak at 8,091 meters. This gruelling and exposed climb tests every ounce of endurance and skill, culminating in the ultimate reward of standing atop one of the world’s highest and most challenging peaks.
Preparation for Annapurna 1 Expedition
Previous Experience Required
Climbers need significant high-altitude experience to attempt Annapurna one. Previous ascents of several 4000M - 6000M climbs and at least one or more 7000-meter peaks are highly recommended. Experience on other 8000M climbs is a bonus. This experience helps climbers understand the physical and mental demands of high-altitude climbing.
Training and Fitness Requirements
Climbers must be in peak physical condition to attempt Annapurna 1. A training plan should focus on endurance, strength, and flexibility. Essential components of the training regimen include:
Long-Distance Running: To build cardiovascular endurance.
Hiking with Heavy Packs: To simulate the weight carried during the climb.
Strength Training: To build the muscle necessary for climbing.
Flexibility Exercises: To maintain agility and prevent injuries.
Technical Skills
Confidence in essential climbing skills, such as ascending and traversing with crampons, using ice axes, and being proficient with rope knots, is crucial for the Annapurna one expedition. Mastery of techniques like jummaring and ascending steep, exposed, and uncomfortable sections is also vital. Whether climbing in the alpine style or classic mountaineering style, having technical knowledge and experience with larger peaks is necessary for a successful Annapurna climb.
Mental Preparation
High-altitude mountaineering is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Experienced climbers recognize that both success and failure are possible outcomes, and understanding this reality is essential. Experience plays a crucial role in building the mental resilience needed to face unforeseen challenges in the mountains.
On Annapurna 1, you will encounter tough climbing environments and difficult days that may make you question your decision to climb. During these times, it is vital to stay mentally strong and sharp, pushing yourself to go that extra inch to successfully and safely complete your expedition. Techniques such as meditation, visualization, and stress management can further enhance mental resilience, helping you navigate the challenges of high-altitude climbing.
Gear and Equipment
Investing in quality gear is recommended at any given expedition and Annapurna 1 is no ordinary case. Please find all the expedition gear required for the Annapurna 1 expedition in the link below.
Safety and Risk Management
Annapurna 1 has one of the highest fatality rates among the 8000-meter peaks due to its extreme altitude, avalanche-prone slopes and technical challenges. Ensuring safety involves:
Thorough Preparation: Detailed planning and rigorous training.
Experienced Guides: Hiring experienced guides with a proven track record. Especially in Nepal, local guides do the heavy work and you need a team of Sherpa guides who can do both the heavy lifting and safe guiding.
Safety Protocols: Strict adherence to safety protocols and being prepared for emergencies.
Health Monitoring: Regular health checks and immediate descent in case of severe altitude sickness symptoms.
Key Achievements and Records
The range of ages among those who have climbed Annapurna 1 is staggering. The youngest person to climb Annapurna 1 was Nima Rinji Sherpa at 17 years old, while the oldest was 60-year-old Carlos Soria Fontan from Spain. Several disabled climbers have also reached the summit, showcasing the inclusivity and determination within the mountaineering community.
Notable Incidents and Fatalities
Annapurna 1 has seen many fatalities over the years, primarily due to avalanches and falls. Despite these risks, the mountain continues to attract climbers from around the world. The fatality rate has been dropping in recent years due to improved safety measures and better preparation.
Importance of LOCAL Experienced Guides
Local experienced guides are essential for navigating the technical challenges and ensuring safety on Annapurna 1. According to Nepalese law, a local guide is required for high-altitude expeditions above 6,000 meters. Even experienced climbers benefit greatly from the local knowledge and expertise that these guides provide.
Sherpa guides are particularly vital in these expeditions, as they handle most of the heavy lifting, carrying all necessary logistics to higher camps 1-4, and play a key role in guiding clients. Their strength and expertise, along with their ability to coordinate with other team members, are crucial for the success of the Annapurna expedition or any extreme climbing endeavour.
In contrast, Western guides do not carry loads to the higher camps, highlighting the unique and indispensable role that Sherpa guides play in high-altitude climbing.
Nutrition and Hydration
Proper nutrition and hydration are crucial for maintaining energy and health during an expedition. Each climber should understand their personal meal plans for the higher camps. Although it can be challenging to eat at high altitudes when losing appetite and the challenges of cooking proper meals, freeze-dried meals, snack/energy bars, protein powders, and vitamin supplements are excellent alternatives.
Your guiding team will prepare water at the higher camps, but it's essential for climbers to drink 4-6 litres of water daily to stay hydrated and aid acclimatization. Beverages like Coke and fruit juices can also be helpful and enjoyable for staying hydrated and maintaining energy levels.
Insurance and Emergency Evacuation
Comprehensive travel and medical insurance are essential, covering high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuations. Helicopter evacuation is the primary method of emergency transport in the Annapurna region. Climbers should ensure their insurance policy includes this coverage. Along with evacuations, your insurance should cover the following
Cancellation or curtailment
Helicopter rescue
Repatriation
The altitude that you are expected to attain
Grade of trek/climb/expedition
Medical cover
Next climbing goals after Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition
K2 8611M
K2 8611M
K2 stands as a formidable challenge following the Annapurna 1 expedition.
Challenge yourself to a new level with a combined 8,000-meter expedition to both Everest and Lhotse in a single journey.
Or take on the challenge of a double Annapurna climb by summiting both Annapurna 2 and 4, part of the stunning Annapurna massif.
Conclusion
Climbing Annapurna one, 8091M is a monumental achievement that requires meticulous preparation, unwavering determination, and respect for the mountain. With Namas Adventure, climbers can focus on the challenge and enjoyment of the climb, knowing that every detail is taken care of. Proper planning, expert guidance, and a commitment to safety and sustainability ensure a successful and memorable expedition.
For more information and to book your expedition, visit our Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition page.
“On Annapurna, every step tests your limits, but it's in those moments of doubt and struggle that you discover your true strength and resilience. The mountain demands respect, and in return, it offers the rarest of rewards: a deeper understanding of yourself.” - Maurice Herzog, Annapurna, First Conquest