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2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions - Namas Adventure

Everest summit 8848M

Tendi Sherpa, at the top of the world. Athlete member of Himlai, wearing Himali 8000M down suit

If you have read our 2021 best Mountaineering down suits blog post (link) then those suits are still relevant and solid. There have not been major changes on the brands we listed but there are new players in the game and we believe it’s worth checking them out too. The reason, a lot of these suits performed and made it to the summits of Everest, Makalu, or other extremes/death zone altitude peaks. These new suits in the market can definitely be an option for you.

High-quality mountaineering down suits are a must in any extreme or death zone altitude expeditions. Highly specialized suits and only to be worn high in the Himalayas or during arctic crossing adventures. As you would have already spent a lot on your expedition, high-quality gears are another area where a lot of your expenses (About $7K - $10K USD) will be involved. Cutting corners is not an option, as you would not want to mess up your expedition just because you purchased poor-quality gears. You should be ready to face the weather at extremes during mountaineering adventures at 8000M, such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, or even at 7000M Baruntse, Himlung Himal, or Ama Dablam. Your down suit should be versatile to keep you warm, breathable, and easily adjustable. Below are some of the best 2022 down suits we can recommend for any climbers who are preparing for their 7000M - 8000M+ expeditions in the coming years.

HIMALI - 8000M DOWN SUITS

Himali may be the only brand that gives proper recognition to Nepalese guide members such as Tendi Sherpa, Mingma G (Winter K2 2021), Nima Tenji Sherpa, and Pasang Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa. (Pro-team page). It’s about time, Nepalese Sherpa gets other forms of recognition. Our Kudos to the Himali team 👏🏼

Himali 8000M down suit is designed to withstand the extreme conditions encountered on 8,000m peak expeditions. Built by using Pertex® QuantumPro ripstop nylon shell; it is tightly woven for durability and boasts a built-in microporous coating to repel precipitation. This Down Suit is packed with RDS certified 1000 fill-power HyperDry Down for ultimate premium lightweight warmth. With detail-focused their expedition suit features double chest zippers that work together to stop the wind, keeping this down suit highly functional without adding unneeded weight. The use of bright contrasting color designs helps you to stand out and be seen. It is truly built for the highest and harshest conditions on Earth.

  • 1000 Fill Power RDS Certified HyperDRY™ Down

  • Pertex® Pro

  • Windproof & Waterproof

  • Integrated stuff sack in the left-hand pocket 

  • Eco-DWR coating

  • Water Expanding Thread 

  • Fleece Lined Front Pockets

  • YKK® Zippers

  • Internal Mesh Pockets

  • Large Hood Lip is designed to protect against wind and snow

  • Adjustable Wrist Cuffs

  • Fully Seam Taped

Feathered friends - Expedition Down Suit

Made in Seattle, Washington Feathered friends have been in designing and making expedition down suits for 25 years. The best feature is their down suits are made to order and customizable (3-4 weeks). Their expedition Suit has been the down suit of choice by the world’s foremost mountain athletes and made it to the top of many 8,000m peaks and extensively in the North and South poles. Balancing warmth, weight, and durability, the Expedition Suit is built to defend against the earth’s worst conditions.

  • 900+ Fill Goose Down

  • Waterproof, breathable Pertex® Shield® XT

  • Tuck-stitched/baffled construction

  • Dual zipper front entry

  • Drop seat rainbow zipper

  • Adjustable internal suspender system

  • Leg zips

  • Two internal water bottle pockets

  • Reinforced knees, seat, shoulders and sleeves

  • Articulated arms

  • Napoleon style zippered pockets

  • Two insulated chest cargo pockets

  • Fully adjustable hood

  • D-ring mitt clips

  • Velcro adjustable cuff

We have all seen Millet’s amazing 8000M expedition boots and it’s time we explore their 8000M down suits too. Made with 800 RDS goose down, and ultra thermal protection Millet’s trilogy MPX down suit is built to endure harsh conditions and is a robust expedition suit. The reinforced knees and seat are built to withstand abrasion whilst the functional zip systems including a back opening and two-way zipper at the front allow it to be worn during the full length of your expedition. With large zippers and an adjustable hood, this suit is both helmet and oxygen mask compatible.

  • High protection for expeditions. Knees and buttocks reinforced

  • Delivered with storage pouch

  • Inner support waistband

  • Front fastening with two-way zip, with a large underplacket for thermal protection

  • Zipped drop seat system under wide insulated flap

  • Adjustable at the waist and cuffs

  • Capacious helmet hood, adjustable, oxygen mask-compatible

  • 2 large interior pockets

  • 4 big zipped pockets

  • Cargo pocket on thigh

Everest outfit - 8000M Khang-ri Summit suit

Born, made/tested in Nepal, the Everest outfit Khang-RI summit suit is another expedition suit that was worn by Everest ice fall doctors and route setters. Kami Rita Sherpa (26th Everest Summitier, pictured above) who lead the 2022 spring Everest/Lhotse expedition team to fix the rope can vouch for this made in Nepal suit. If they pro’s can vouch for it and have been tested rigorously then we surely can have our confidence on this suit.

Details are not mentioned on their website. Please contact Everest Outfit for any details.

Montane expedition suits rather come in a 2 piece system. Their expedition jacket and salopettes have been worn by climbers like Jon Gupta to the summit of Everest. Designed for use in the most extreme environments on earth, the Apex 8000 Down Jacket has been developed in conjunction with expedition leading mountaineers and tested in high altitudes of 8000M+. Filled with 500g of the highest quality water-resistant goose down within a box walled construction. With the additional water-resistance of PrimaLoft® insulation in key areas, there is no compromise to functionality or features on this piece of survival gear.

The expedition suits listed are some of the additional down suits we believe interested climbers should explore after all it all comes down to personal preferences once we know that these suits have been tested and worn by climbers during their expedition. Expedition suits are not updated every year like other clothing lines. What should matter is its performance at extremes and you can be confident in the 2021 and 2022 expedition down suits that we have listed in our blogpost. After utility and then it comes down to the brand you prefer, colors, styles, sustainability values, and reviews.

Conclusion

Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With adventure brands innovating and developing high-quality down suits you have more options now. We have listed (2021 and 2022) some of the most famous down suits out there in the market today. We cannot stress this enough quality (highest) matters. This is the last place on earth where you would not have adequate clothing gear. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes so you’ll need the best of the best which are listed above. Also, we highly recommend you read our 2021 mountaineering down suit blogpost. (Link)

Which mountaineering down suit will you buy for your upcoming extreme expedition? Please comment below :)

Suit up. Climb on.

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2021 Best Mountaineering Down Suits - Namas Adventure

Photo by - Matt Irving / National Geographic

Photo by - Matt Irving / National Geographic

Down suits are probably the most visible aspect when coming across images of extreme high altitude mountaineering. They are also the must clothing gear along with other specialized clothing. But in this post, we are here to talk about down suits only. They don’t come cheap and aren't supposed to. These are highly specialized suits built to perform and protect climbers from extreme cold conditions in some of the most hostile places. On any high altitude expedition like Mt. Everest, Manaslu, Baruntse, or Ama Dablam comes with both good and extremely windy cold climbing days. Your down suit should be versatile enough to perform in both conditions. Below are some of the best down suits we can recommend for any climbers who are preparing for their 7000M - 8000M+ expeditions.

Probably the most famous and well know suit. With the brand North face which is well known for their adventure clothing products, their down suits are one of the best in the industry. North Face down suits is also worn by famous North face athletes like Renan Ozturk, Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker. Probably because they are part of the team but also these athletes have helped the company to test and build these suits. Some of the down suit features

  • 800 fill goose down offers superior warmth, while 700 fill goose down in the lower body provides compression resistance

  • Welded baffle construction eliminates cold spots and weak points that accompany needle holes

  • Extra-long, two-way center front double zip with full-length draft tube

  • Coated with durable water-repellent (DWR) finish for added water repellency

  • Full-leg zips finish in a horseshoe drop-seat configuration

  • Adjustable hood is fully baffled for reliable warmth and zero cold spots

  • Intuitive, sleek, and secure integrated suspender system

Korean adventure brand Black Yak is relatively new in the European market with their expedition suits. Their expedition suit is one of the most expensive almost double or even more than other leading expedition suit brands. From the high thermal efficiency to the multi-slider zippers with extended zipper pullers. Suit features

  • Double-stitched down chambers

  • performance-mapped insulation

  • High-tenacity 20 Denier CORDURA® fibers and CORDURA® fibers

  • 750 goose down, 90/10 – RDS-certified

  • G-LOFT® synthetic insulation 120 GSM

  • Water protection lamination, Material mapped for performance, Stretch zone mapped for comfort

  • Insulated and baffled fitted hood and Auto-fitting hood

  • O2 set-compatible, Goggle-compatible

  • Windshield brim

  • Drought-free compression cuff

  • Glove/mitten fixing points

  • Kevlar®-reinforced seat

  • Kevlar®-reinforced harness/rock points

  • Outer snow gaiter with Kevlar® protection and gripper band

  • High altitude/ Expedition double boot-compatible

  • Hydration bladder-compatible

Kailas brand has been trusted and worn mostly by the Sherpa guides in the Himalayas. Partly because of the company supporting Sherpa climbing community in Nepal. People may lose their trust when it comes to China-made but Kailas has been specializing in mountain wears for quite some time and if the Sherpas have their full trust in them, rest assured we can be. Suit features

  • Fully taped seams for waterproof, windproof, and ventilation

  • DWR coating

  • Special treatment prevents down from shedding

  • Reinforced panels at elbows, knees, seat, and ankles

  • Waterproof front pockets

  • Low profile insulated hood with one-hand drawcord adjustment

  • Adjustable shoulder straps

  • Waterproof, breathable zippers at both sides of thigh

  • Oxygen-mask-compatible collar

Marmot is another well-known brand in the world of adventure. Their warm cube 8000M suit is that what you need on Icy winds, steep snow, and freezing cold conditions. When your adventures start with all of the above, you need gear that’s just as epic—and more. Marmot down Suit feature -

  • 800-fill-power-down provides exceptional warmth, loft, and compatibility

  • Pertex Quantum® fabric is designed to protect from wind and improve the efficiency of insulation

  • Removable liner with WarmCube™ construction for ultra-comfortable warmth in extreme conditions when you need it

  • Adjustable suspenders with mesh back panel and front detach system for a customized fit and improved airflow

  • Attached hood with peripheral cord adjustment and insulated muff

  • 4-way water-resistant center front zipper; 4-way rainbow seat zipper with stay-open hook

  • Dual internal mesh 1-liter water bottle pockets; Zippered hand and thigh pocket

Mountain Hardwear is another brand that holds a reputation when it comes to Hiamalayan gears and clothing. Their down suits has earned praises from many climbers. Some of the features of the suit are listed below

  • Q Shield™ Down: welded, watertight baffle construction

  • 6-slider watertight rainbow rear-zip for easy on/off

  • Oxygen mask compatible collar

  • Low profile, insulated, fixed hood with one-handed drawcord for quick fit adjustments

  • Reinforced panels at elbows, knees, seat, and hem

  • 90% Goose Down, 10% Goose Feather

expedition_suit_gold_qed_20_go-min.jpg

British brand RAB is best known for specializing in their down-filled products. Down jackets for everyday lifestyle, adventures to the high Himalayan peaks. The Rab Expedition 8000 Suit has built on the best selling Rab Expedition Down Suit and has improved on an already class-leading down suit it has been designed for use in the harshest environments, specifically for use in extremely cold conditions at High Altitude and in the Polar Regions. RAB 8000M down suits features

  • Pertex® Endurance Outer Fabric and Pertex Quantum® Lining

  • 850FP R.D.S. Certified European Goose Down (778g Size M)

  • Rab® Fluorocarbon free Hydrophobic Down developed in conjunction with Nikwax®

  • Box-wall construction, differential cut

  • Helmet Compatible down-filled Hood, wired peak

  • Front Zip Protection Flap

  • Extended LEngth YKK® front zip, 2-way zipper to allow toilet access

  • 3 outer pockets, 2 internal mesh pockets

  • Full-Length YKK® side zips with multiple Pullers

  • Weight 1990g (size M)

Whichever suit you choose at the end the listed suits above are amongst the best in the industry. Fabrics and technology have progressed so far that it’s amazing to see how far these suits have come since the early days of the expedition. You can rest assured of the performance when it comes to its utility and then it comes down to the brand you prefer, colors, styles, sustainability values, and reviews.

Conclusion

Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With adventure brands innovating and developing high-quality down suits you have more options now. We have listed some of the most famous down suits out there in the market today. We cannot stress this enough but quality (highest) matters. This is the last place on earth where you would not have adequate clothing gear. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes so you’ll need the best of the best which are listed above.

Which mountaineering down suit will you buy for your upcoming extreme expedition? Please comment below :)

Suit up. Climb on.

Live Your Story

Read More