Mountain expeditions in Nepal during the autumn season - Namas Adventure
Barutnse expedition camp 1 6100M
Planning your next 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M mountain expeditions in Nepal during the Autumn season?
September - November (autumn in Nepal) is another best time to plan your Himalayan adventures. After the spring headlines of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu stories, autumn awaits to write new chapters and records in other Himalayan peaks.
p.s. - Everest or Lhotse expedition is not organized during the autumn season. Why do you ask? There is the financial side with almost no teams to cover up for Khumbu icefall doctors fees and the weather window is generally very short.
Manaslu 8163M (Late August - September) and Ama Dablam 6810M (October - November) attract the majority of the climbers but the way we see it there are other amazing peaks that can be climbed and explored. Here are our suggestions
7000M Expeditions
Baruntse Expedition 7129M
Remote, Raw, and Rugged. Semi-technical climb in nature, Baruntse peak is one of the 7000er mountains that is accessible to climb during autumn. The knife ridge to the summit is not for the faint-hearted. Perfect 7000M expedition that gives you a solid feel of proper mountaineering (classic and alpine style) and best of all there aren’t many climbers. No traffic and one we love taking upon.
Join us here during autumn climbs (October - November)
Himlung Himal final summit ridge
A classic 7000er climb in the Annapurna region. Remote, safer, accessible, and less technical with a high chance of summit success. Expect some long climbing days, particularly on summit day. A moderate amount of teams are attempting Himlung during the autumn season.
Join us for Himlung Himal 7126M expedition (September - October - November) every year.
Annapurna IV 7525M
ANNAPURNA IV 7525M
Breaking above the 7500M zone, Annapurna IV 7527M is the perfect mountaineering objective for climbers who do not want to avoid crowds/traffic to prepare for their Everest or other 8000M peak expeditions. Annapurna IV is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna II 7937M/26040FT on the western side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the eastern face. The climbing route has fewer objective dangers and is relatively a semi-technical climb.
Far away from the sight of Everest and if you want to have a feel of the classic mountaineering expedition and raw-pristine moments then the far west expedition to Putha Hiunchuli 7246m in Nepal surely won’t disappoint.
You are a pro-seasonal high altitude skier and want to up your shredding game? This peak provides you with a perfect line. We venture into Putha Hiunchuli every 2 to 3 years. Check out our next departure dates to Putha Hiunchuli on our page.
8000M Expeditions
Manaslu 8163M
Manaslu true summit 8163m
Manaslu, the mountain of spirit, is the most climbed 8000M+ mountain during the Autumn season. Now with the true summit finally becoming clear to all the climbers, the final 100M traverse to the summit does not get easier. Manaslu is also considered one of the easiest mountains at 8000M level.
We organize a Manaslu expedition every season, join our ever so small and fun-loving team, not to forget to the true summit.
Dhaulagiri 8167M
Approaching Dhaulagiri 8167M
Located in the central west of Nepal, Dhaulagiri 8167 M mountain is another 8000er expedition that is organized mostly during the autumn season. Dhaulagiri attracts a handful of climbers during the autumn season. This is the world’s lucky 7th highest mountain.
Check out 8000M expedition pages for upcoming Dhaulagiri expeditions.
Kanchenjunga 8586M
Kanchenjunga 8586M
Mount Kanchenjunga 8586M is the final 8000M on the eastern flanks of the Himalayan belt. It sits right on the border of Nepal and India (Sikkim). A handful of expeditions are organised every year and some summits have been recorded during autumn season too.
6000M Expeditions
Ama Dablam 6810M
After the Manaslu climb, almost 90% of the team is focused on the Ama Dablam. Be it to summit this peak or to strategize with next season’s Everest climb. Either way, expect a decent crowd of climbers at Ama Dablam.
Join us at Ama Dablam every autumn and possibly during early winter too. For the ones that can brave the cold.
Climbing the ridge to Cholatse camp 2
If you want to escape the gatherings of climbers at Ama Dablam and instead climb an equally challenging or may even be a tougher peak in the Khumbu region then Cholatse is a perfect mountain to climb. Do not underestimate this mountain because it does not boast higher but the climbing routes are second to none. Climbing on a long exposed knife-edge ridge and climbing ice headwalls are some amazing feats to take on at Cholatse.
Plenty of crux and not forget the ever visible Gokyo valley during your entire climbing period. Join us at Cholatse every year during the autumn season.
Note - With Everest/Lhotse expedition not operating during the autumn season, most of the certified guides (350 - 400) are not occupied and are raring to go and help climbers achieve their dream adventures in other mountain peaks.
Since autumn is another big season to achieve your dream climbs in Nepal, are you planning any of the above-mentioned mountaineering adventures? We organize, all-inclusive expeditions during the autumn season and would love to welcome you onboard our teams. Unlike others, we organize a team of max 8 small and a compact teams, which enables us to plan swiftly and have an intimate group during our expeditions.
Join us on our 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M expeditions during autumn in any given year. Let’s go on your dream adventures.
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Climbing your first 8000M mountain peak - Namas Adventure
Which 8000M Mountain peak should I first aim for?
Which is the easiest, accessible, and safest 8000M peak to climb first?
What should my first ideal 8000M peak climb be?
Which 8000M should be my first challenge?
When considering an 8000M mountain peak expedition, it is important to have the right experience and preparation. Before attempting any 8000M peak, we recommend that climbers have completed at least two 6000M peak expeditions, such as Lobuche East 6119M, Island Peak 6189M, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua or Chulu West 6419M, as well as at least one expedition to a peak of 7000M or higher, such as Baruntse 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M, or Putha Hiunchuli 7246M. These expeditions will provide valuable experience and understanding of what it takes to be successful at high altitudes, as well as the physical and mental demands of long and challenging days in the mountains.
With that said, it is important to note that there are no easy or comfortable climbs at 8000M. However, when comparing the 14X8000M peaks, the expeditions listed below are considered entry-level and are generally considered to be less technical and safer options at this altitude
Manaslu 8163M
Manaslu 8163M, is the eighth highest mountain in the world and is considered an introductory 8000M mountain peak. This should be the choice for many climbers, who want to make this their first-ever expedition into 8000M. Granted this expedition sees many climbing teams during the autumn climbing season, this factor makes this expedition relatively safer logistically and with enough team support. There are fewer technical sections and fewer hazards. This has been the most preferred 8000M expedition ever since the Cho-Oyu expedition from the Chinese side has been uncertain and difficult dealing with Chinese authorities.
The lower section (between camp 1 and camp 2) has most of the objective danger and is also prone to avalanches. Make no mistake, all-mountain big or small is prone to these objective dangers. Climbing the true summit of Manaslu is another technical challenge. (Manaslu true summit blogpost link) The last 50M - 60M will have to be traversed on exposed slope sections and the summit can only fit 1-2 climbers at a time. You will need to sharpen your ice climbing and traversing climbing skills. But if you are comfortable with the fore summit then you need not worry about the final 50M - 60M technical climbing challenges on Manaslu.
Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.
This expedition is considered a must final crucial expedition for the “Road to Everest” expedition goal. Our team organizes Manaslu every year. Join us and let us help you step into 8000M safely and climb a true summit of Manaslu 8163M.
Cho-Oyu 8201M
Cho Oyu 8201M
Cho-Oyu 8201M, the 6th higher peak in the world is another safer mountain and gets its famous tag as the easiest 8000M peak. Located between Nepal and China, this 8000M peak lies 20km away from Mt.Everest. Where the difficulty lies in climbing this peak is complicated rules with Chinese authorities and uncertainties. New commercial routes from the Nepal side are begin tested (Gelje Sherpa team and Pioneer expedition team - 2022 Winter expedition) but the new route from the Nepal side is difficult and exposed. Only 14 people have climbed from Nepal’s side. Should the two team succeed with their expeditions, this will open doors to the Cho-Oyu expedition from Nepal’s side and a perfect alternative to climbing another 8000M peak from the Nepalese side.
Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.
Teams set up 3 higher camps with several rotations to strategize for the summit push. There are no real technical sections and the objective dangers are very few on the Chinese side of this peak. It is also one of the shorter 8000M expedition and base camp is even accessible by jeep. This makes it one of the most attractive expeditions for interested climbers and there have been well over 1000 ascents on this peak. On the Nepal side, the base camp is far, rugged, and longer compared to the Chinese side. This mountain is also a popular safer choice for high altitude skiers and snowboarders due to low objective risk and good snow conditions. Cho-Oyu 8201M, is mostly preferable to climb during the autumn season.
Our team is assessing situations with Nepal side climb and should the commercial route be tested and declared safer/accessible, we aim to plan the expedition from 2024 Autumn. Join us then
Are you planning your first-ever 8000M expedition? Want to test yourself in the death zone altitude before climbing higher to Mt. Everest or other tougher 8000M mountains? We hope the guidance and suggestion in this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of which 8000M to climb first. The right experience is a must and very important. Not only do inexperience and inadequate preparations hinder your chance of completing the expedition or endanger your life but also put the life of guide members and the team in danger too. Our team can help you prepare in the best way to gain the right experience to complete your dream of the first 8000M peak expedition.
Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼
Namas Adventure Team
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Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure
For years if not decades climbers have been debating about reaching the true summit(4) of Manaslu and where it actually is. Finally this year the drone shot captured by Jackson Groves during his Manaslu expedition made it clear as daylight to the world. His images clear the argument once and for all. Jackson himself mentions in his blog (Journeyera) that he stopped short at the fore summit and did not proceed to the main summit.
Mingma G seen climbing to the main summit. Majority of climbers previously stopped at the fore summit, claiming Manaslu 8163M Summit.
Mingma G, who set up the fix-rope at the pinnacle snow point of the summit (true summit) along with the Himalayan database claimed that this was only achieved only after 45 years (1976). Others argue otherwise but now we can understand why reaching the true summit which is 20m-25m away from the fore summit (Shelf 2) is such a dangerous challenge to overcome at 8100M+ level.
The last section is very technical and exposed which has to be climbed down a few feet, traversed through steep, snow, and rocky slopes with more than a hundred-meter drop, and is clearly not for any inexperienced climbers.
Manaslu 8163M expedition is considered an introductory 8000M+ expedition to see how non-seasoned climbers handle themselves climbing at the death zone but the last section from the fore summit to the true summit is not for the inexperienced climbers. For one the climb is a very dangerous and technical climb this final section which won’t be able to handle any sort of traffic jams and any form of rescue in between is near to impossible. Only very experienced seasoned climbers who want to stamp their name on the elitist group whose aim to hold records or gather as many summits are advised or if you have several previous climbing experiences (not just 2 or 3) then going up to the real summit is advised. Also, bearing in mind now that the true summit is clear to many, most climbers will be attempting the pinnacle point hence traffic might become an issue in such a small section.
Prior to this year (Autumn 2021), Manaslu 8163M summit has been claimed by many but it turns out only a handful of climbers had been to the main summit. The Tolerance zone concept proposed by Stefan Nestler is particularly interesting. His concept suggests two types of summiteers -
The general summit group: Many who have claimed to be at the summit have gone back home believing that they have been to the true summit. This will definitely come as an annoyance to many but the majority of the climbers who do not care about being in the absolute elite list won’t be back to climb Manaslu just to climb the few last meters.
The elitist summit group: Are the absolutes who make no compromises even to the last stone or snow point at the very top to claim the true summit. These climbers will have to come back to update their summit records.
Moving forward climbers who want to climb Manaslu as an introductory 8000M expedition will have to think really hard and make a sensible decision before venturing further away from the fore summit to the true summit. For the ones who want to be on the elite table list, the debate has ended and the true summit is clear. Operators too will have to be clear about the true summit and fore summit plans.
So, as the debate ends, are you planning to climb Manaslu 8163M in near future? Namas Adventure/Expedition team will be planning our expedition strategy to the true summit. However, to the non-seasoned climbers, the option of climbing the fore summit is still possible with our team.
See you in the mountains.
Go. Live Your Story.