Insider tips to prepare for Everest Expedition
Wester cwm Everest Expedition. 2024 Everest climb
Hey folks, this is Bisesh, Chief Adventurer at Namas Adventure. As you prepare for your next major mountaineering endeavor, such as an Everest expedition, I'm excited to share some personal insights and valuable tips that helped me successfully summit Everest on my first attempt. I hope these suggestions will aid you in your preparations and contribute to your success on the mountain.
Preparing for an Everest expedition or any extreme altitude mounatin expeditions can be an overwhelming experience, given the abundance of information available on preparation strategies. It's crucial to understand that climbing Everest—or any high-altitude mountain—demands extensive experience, encompassing both triumphs and setbacks. You must acquaint your mind and heart with all possible outcomes. Remember, every climber is unique, and a generic training regimen won't necessarily enable you to perform optimally against these formidable peaks.
Now that you've tailored a training plan to your specific needs and are preparing with discipline, I'd like to share some personal strategies that supported my preparations and actual ascent. My hope is that you can adapt some of these tools and tips to tackle your challenges with greater finesse and derive more enjoyment from your climb.
These preparation strategies played a pivotal role in my successful ascent of Everest —even though I was afflicted with Khumbu cough and a fever just four days before the summit push, and was only at 50% of my health post-recovery.
To provide some context, I am a fit, athletic male in my mid-30s, currently residing in New York City. It doesn’t get more urban and densely populated than NYC. I trained rigorously 5-6 days a week for 5 months, dedicating 1.5 to 2 hours each day to my fitness regime. I continue to train with the same intensity as I prepare for the upcoming Annapurna 1 (Spring 2025) and K2 (Summer 2026) expeditions. Should I optimize my training methods in any way, I will be sure to update this blog post to share my latest insights and adaptations.
Training
I focused on enhancing my VO2 max capacity. I incorporated interval & muscular endurance training, along with plyometrics. These workouts are critical for increasing aerobic capacity, especially when preparing for high-altitude climbs where oxygen levels are significantly lower.
Specifically, I engaged in a structured interval training regimen. This consisted of 10 minutes of jogging in Zone 2 to warm up, followed by more intense segments: four sets of 3-minute runs in Zone 4, each set interspersed with 3 minutes of rest. Additionally, I included four sets of 30-second all-out sprints, again with 3 minutes of rest between each sprint. This combination of medium and high-intensity intervals was designed to push my aerobic system to adapt and improve.
I committed to this training schedule once a week for four months. Over time, this regimen significantly enhanced my VO2 max, equipping me with the stamina needed to tackle the rigorous demands of high-altitude climbing.
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VO2 max, or maximal oxygen uptake, is the maximum amount of oxygen that an individual can utilize during intense or maximal exercise. It is measured in milliliters of oxygen used in one minute per kilogram of body weight (ml/kg/min). This measurement is considered the best indicator of an athlete's cardiovascular fitness and aerobic endurance.
The concept behind VO2 max is simple: it measures the efficiency with which your body can pull oxygen from the blood to produce energy. During exercise, your muscles require more oxygen to generate the energy needed to sustain activity. The more oxygen you can use during high-intensity activity, the more energy you can produce.
VO2 max is influenced by several factors, including genetics, training, age, gender, and altitude. Regular, sustained cardiorespiratory training can lead to improvements in VO2 max, as your cardiovascular system becomes more efficient at delivering oxygen to your muscles and your muscle cells become better at using that oxygen.
In sports science, VO2 max is used to:
Assess an athlete’s cardiovascular capacity and fitness level. Tailor training programs to improve endurance and performance. Evaluate the effectiveness of training regimens and monitor changes in fitness levels over time. A higher VO2 max allows athletes to perform more intense physical activity for longer periods, which is particularly important in endurance sports like running, cycling, and rowing.
Cold shower everyday and cold plunge 30F twice a month
Incorporating cold exposure into my training routine has been another critical factor in preparing for the harsh conditions of Everest. With the rising popularity of cold showers and cold plunges, I decided to embrace this trend—and it has proven immensely beneficial. Initially, I integrated cold showers into my training regimen during my Annapurna IV climb. Despite the initial discomfort and my reluctance towards the frigid water, I maintained discipline and subjected myself to daily cold showers.
Over time, not only did I adapt, but I also began to crave these showers, especially during the harsh winters of New York, which run from November to March. This practice significantly aided in acclimating to cold conditions.
Sauna 2-3 times a week. 20 min
I incorporated sauna visits into my routine 2-3 times a week for about 20 minutes each session. While saunas are known for their heat, they provided a vital counterbalance to the cold exposure. Post-training, the sauna served as an excellent recovery tool, offering cardiovascular health benefits and enhancing overall wellness—truly a win-win in my training program.
Intermittent fasting 5 days
Intermittent fasting also played a role in my preparation, with a regimen from Monday to Friday. At high altitudes, appetite can diminish significantly, and meals are often sparse. Training my body to function effectively while fasting mimicked the conditions I would face on the mountain, particularly between Camp 3 and the summit, where eating becomes a challenge. This adaptation was crucial during the strenuous stretches from Camp 2 to 3 and onto the summit.
Wim hof breathing technique
I also explored the Wim Hof breathing technique, practicing it 2-4 times a week, especially in the mornings. While it's hard to quantify the direct impact of this practice, deep breathing is essential at high altitudes. Emulating such conditions during the preparation phase likely provided a significant advantage. The technique proved especially useful when trekking to higher elevations and at base camps, helping to enhance my respiratory capacity and overall altitude tolerance.
Nutrition
Coke or sodas or fruit jelly drinks (during Expedition)
You might find this surprising, but an essential tip for high-altitude expeditions like Everest is to stock up on extra bottles of Coke for the higher camps. During your rotations to Camp 2 and Camp 3, try to include 2-3 bottles in your supplies. Then, for your summit push, leave a couple at Camp 4 and take a few with you to the summit. You’ll be incredibly grateful to have access to Coke at these elevations.
Coke or similar sugary drinks can taste surprisingly delightful and almost heavenly in the thin mountain air—trust me on this. After our summit push, as we descended back to Camp 4 and took some time to rest before heading down to Camp 2, we observed many climbers arriving from Camp 3. They were particularly eager for a sip of Coke, some even willing to pay a premium, driven by sheer desperation. So, remember: Coke, Coke, Coke—make sure you have it with you. It’s more than just a beverage up there; it’s a small luxury that can provide a big morale boost.
Protein powder meals and energy CHews
This aspect of preparation involves trial and error, and it’s crucial as you build up to an Everest expedition: make sure to test various kinds of meals. On the mountain, solid meals can become difficult to consume due to the extreme environment and altitude-induced appetite loss. An effective hack is to opt for quick, protein-powered meals, ensuring that you still receive the necessary nutrition without the struggle of heavy digestion.
One strategy I adopted was incorporating RecPak and Ka’Chava into my diet. These meal replacements are not only nutritious but also easy to prepare and consume in challenging conditions. They offer a balanced blend of proteins, vitamins, and minerals, which can be a game-changer when traditional eating becomes cumbersome. These meals provide a convenient way to maintain energy levels and nutritional intake when solid foods are less appealing or harder to digest. Testing different meal options before your expedition is essential to discover what works best for your body at altitude, ensuring you can maintain your strength and focus on the climb ahead.
Energy chews are another favorite of mine, especially during climbing. I prefer them over energy gels, which can freeze in extreme cold. Chews are incredibly handy; they're easy to carry, don't freeze, and provide a quick, substantial energy boost exactly when I need it. I've found them particularly useful during short breaks in climbing, as they are not only convenient but also effective in delivering that much-needed punch of energy. GU energy chews are my go to.
Khumbu cough and rest/recovery at lower altitudes
Khumbu cough and related sicknesses are almost an inevitable part of any Everest expedition. Most climbers experience these ailments during their journey, with the specific cause of such widespread occurrence not entirely understood. However, a plausible reason could be the close quarters and shared paths among climbers from various teams, facilitating the rapid spread of viruses.
If you find yourself feeling under the weather, which could indicate the onset of Khumbu cough or another sickness, I strongly recommend taking immediate action. Descending to a lower altitude, such as Lukla or even Kathmandu, can be crucial. Given the frequent helicopter flights servicing these areas, securing a ride to receive medical attention and recover at a lower altitude should be manageable. Returning with improved health can make a significant difference in your ability to continue the climb.
During our rest and recovery days, I experienced the onset of the Khumbu cough while we were taking a rest day in Namche Bazaar after we finished our final acclimatisation rotation. Unfortunately, other members of our team had already contracted the illness, and on the last day of our acclimatization period, I too fell ill. As we were scheduled to fly to base camp the following day, we decided to postpone our departure by two days due to my and other member’s health, which was at about 30-40% of its normal capacity.
On returning to base camp the next day stopped in Lukla, where I immediately felt a difference in the air quality and a resurgence of energy—suggesting that Lukla could be a viable option for recovery. This experience underscores the importance of listening to your body and being flexible with your itinerary to accommodate necessary health measures. Proper acclimatization and readiness to adapt plans are key to managing and overcoming altitude sickness and other health issues during high-altitude expeditions.
Rest and Recovery at lower altitude
Namche Bazaar 3430M
Our team uses a strategic acclimatization rest at Namche Bazaar for effective rest and recovery (R&R). After rotations to Camp 2 and 3, we helicopter from Base Camp to Namche to spend 3-4 days recuperating. This lower altitude offers thicker air and a chance to enjoy varied foods, significantly aiding in recovery. We found this R&R period essential before the final summit push, allowing climbers to rejuvenate physically and mentally. I highly recommend incorporating a similar strategy to enhance overall performance and summit success.
TEAM
By the time you are poised to attempt a commercial climb of Everest, you will likely have undertaken numerous preparatory climbs under the guidance of either a local Sherpa or an international guide. This is crucial, as Everest and other extreme altitude peaks subject climbers to intense emotional and physical challenges. During these preliminary climbs, your guide will have the opportunity to become intimately familiar with your strengths and weaknesses in mountainous environments. This relationship forms a vital bond that can prove indispensable when facing the toughest moments of the climb.
I can confidently say that the success of our expedition was significantly influenced by our guides, who had previously climbed with each team member, understood each person's capabilities, and knew how to motivate and push us effectively. The familiarity and trust built with our guides were crucial, especially in moments when we were on the brink of exhaustion. Therefore, it is essential to have a guide who not only knows you well but also has the ability to inspire and drive you forward when you feel like giving up. This connection can make all the difference in achieving your goal of reaching the summit.
Affermations
During the grueling push from Camp 3 to Camp 4, and then from Camp 4 to the summit, where winds reached a harrowing 40-50 mph, two specific affirmations proved crucial in helping me and my team persevere through the toughest moments.
The first comes from David Goggins, a man whose resilience and sheer mental fortitude are nothing short of inspirational. His mantra, “Who’s gonna carry the boats?” became a rallying cry for me when mental fatigue began to set in.
The second affirmation was a morning ritual: “It will get tougher, it will be harder, but today is not the day we give up. Today we march, one step at a time. You chose this, and it will be difficult. This is Everest. So today is not the day to give in.” During the climb this helped me, could not quantify then but as I now reflected back this was a powerful affermations that really helped me during the climb.
These affirmations not only bolstered our physical stamina but also strengthened our mental resilience, proving indispensable throughout the journey to the summit.
Bonus Suggestion: Express Climb
If you're capable, opting for an "Everest Express Climb" can be a highly effective strategy for conquering the world's highest peak. This approach is not for everyone; it requires meeting specific prerequisites and involves rigorous preparation.
To consider this strategy, you must first ensure you meet all the prerequisites. Specialized training is essential, which should include expert assistance.
There are several reasons to opt for the express route, but a key benefit is minimizing your exposure to the harsh conditions of the Khumbu region. This strategy is particularly advantageous as it reduces the time spent in extreme conditions, thereby decreasing the likelihood of illness. Being sick at high altitudes is challenging to overcome and can significantly impact your strength and recovery, even after you've recuperated. By shortening your time on the mountain through an express climb, you can potentially avoid these complications and maintain a higher level of health throughout your expedition.
I hope you found this blog article engaging and that the suggestions offered will assist you in preparing for your upcoming Everest climb or any other mountaineering expedition. Climbing mountains is undoubtedly challenging, but it stands as one of the most rewarding adventures that can deeply fulfill your soul. I trust that you will be able to utilize these tips, along with your own tricks, to enjoy a safe and successful climb.
Mountaineering is a close-knit community, and my wish is for everyone to have a successful and safe expedition, leaving you with feelings of contentment and joy.
Thank you and Namaste. I look forward to seeing you in the mountains. Let’s go live that daring story. After all, that is all we have.
Much love & Namaste 🙏🏼
Bisesh - Chief Adventurer
Namas Adventure
2024 Namas Adventure Everest Team.
Visual journey Everest 8848.86 Expedition Nepal
Early reminder - Click to enlarge on images
Climbing Mount Everest is not just an expedition; it's a breathtaking journey through some of the most visually stunning landscapes on Earth. From the ascent through the Khumbu Icefall's towering seracs to the vast, snow-covered expanse of the Western Cwm, each phase of the climb offers unique, awe-inspiring vistas. The thrill of ascending past the South Col into the thin air of the "Death Zone" combines a mix of fear, exhilaration, and awe, as climbers are surrounded by the world's highest peaks piercing the sky. Reaching the summit rewards adventurers with a panoramic spectacle of rugged peaks under a pristine sky, where the sheer majesty of nature is palpable, making the grueling climb a profoundly transformative experience.
Lukla to Lobuche village
Our Everest expedition journey begins in the cultural city of Kathmandu. Here, we meet the team, conduct expedition briefings, and perform a final gear check. After two days, we fly to Lukla via helicopter and start our beautiful trek through the Khumbu region, visiting picturesque villages like Namche, Phortse, Pangboche, Dingboche, and finally Lobuche.
Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu via helicopter
Lobuche East Acclimatisation
Our first acclimatization rotation is at Lobuche East Peak, reaching an altitude of 6,119 meters. This climb helps us practice technical skills and properly acclimatize before heading to Everest Base Camp.
Learn more about Lobuche East 6119M peak climbing here.
First Everest acclimatisation, Lobuche East Peak 6119M
Base Camp 5436M
Base Camp is our home for the entire expedition. We conduct puja ceremonies, and acclimatization rotations, and enjoy a well-equipped camp setup. Facilities include a kitchen, dining area, rest dome tent, communication tent, and toilets. We will also acclimatize at Kalapatthar and Pumori High Camp (5,600m) while waiting for the summit ropes to be fixed.
Khumbu Ice Fall
Traning at Khumbu Ice Fall
The SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) team fixes the icefall route, and we spend a day training near our base camp. We practice climbing techniques, ladder navigation, jumaring, and abseiling. This refresher training ends with some fun ice climbing on the glacier.
Ice fall route to camp 1 (Max 8 hours)
Once the SPCC announces that the route is fixed, we begin our climb through the icefall to Camp 1. Our first rotation helps us acclimatize and familiarize ourselves with the challenging icefall route.
Camp 1, 6100M
Camp 1 is set up on terraced ice walls, offering stunning views of Everest 8848.86, Lhotse 8516M, and Nuptse 7861M. We spend two nights acclimatizing here before moving to Camp 2.
Camp 1 to Camp 2, 6500M (4 - 5 hours)
The climb to Camp 2 is relatively easy, following a zigzag flat surface and avoiding crevasses. We aim to reach Camp 2 early to avoid the intense sunlight.
Camp 2 - Camp 3, 7100M+ (4-6 hours)
The climb to Camp 3 starts with a flat hike to the base of the Lhotse wall, followed by a steep, vertical ascent. Camp 3 is set up halfway through the Lhotse face wall.
Tiny black dots of climbers moving to camp 3
Camp 3 - Camp 4, 7950M (8-10 hours)
We begin a further vertical climb to Camp 4, passing the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur. This is a tough day with little opportunity to rest
Everest Camp 4
Camp 4 - South Balcony, 8400m (4 - 6 hours)
Starting early, we push for the summit, moving through the Everest South Col route. The views from the South Balcony are spectacular, offering a glimpse of the Tibetan plateau and the Himalayas.
Camp Hillary Ridge, 8790m (3-4 hours)
The climb above the South Balcony towards the South Summit is all uphill before reaching the iconic Hillary Ridge. The Hillary Ridge is exposed and uneven. Climbing higher up the ridge leads to the summit of Everest, the highest point on Earth. The panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, and Kanchenjunga are unparalleled, making the grueling climb worthwhile.
Summit 8848.86M
Summit of Everest 8848.86M
Descend. Going up is optional, coming down is mandatory.
Reaching the summit of Everest 8848.86, the highest point on our planet, is an unparalleled experience. On a clear summit day, the panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, Kanchenjunga, and countless other 7000m and 6000m peaks are truly breathtaking. This unique feeling is known only to those who have made the climb.
We offer exclusive small team expeditions (8-12 climbers) both Standard and Express expedition options on both the South and North sides of Everest (beginning in 2026). If climbing Everest is your dream, join our dedicated and expert team to make it a reality.
Is summiting Everest/Lhotse your ultimate dream goal adventure? We have departures every spring. For more information on our Everest expedition or any of our other expeditions, please visit our website.
Feel free to call or WhatsApp us at +1 347-476-9547, or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com. We look forward to helping you achieve your mountaineering dreams.
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