7000m peaks, mountaineering Namas Adventure 7000m peaks, mountaineering Namas Adventure

Technically challenging commercial peak expeditions below 8000M to climb in Nepal - Namas Adventure

Scrambing on vertical uneven rocky section, Ama Dablam Expedition

For climbers seeking a technically challenging commercial peak climbing expedition in Nepal, we have compiled a list of amazing expeditions. By no means are these expeditions suitable for beginner/Intermediate level climbers. This one is for the pure grit lovers who want to enjoy, suffer, test their skills, and experience type 2 fun in the remote Nepalese Himalayan peaks.

Most commercial expedition teams avoid super technical routes but with some mountains, you just can’t find a way around it. The only way to accomplish the expedition is to put your technical climbing skills to the test. These expeditions require climbers to have all the necessary skills for technical climbing. For the sake of clarity, all commercial expedition does have a fixed rope system in place, unless all the team members want to go alpine-style without the assistance of a fixed rope. Fixed-line ropes are there for safety and assistance.

Skills such as climbing 70 - 90 degrees vertical routes, traversing on knife-edge ridges or couloirs, ice climbings skills on verticals, scrambling on rocky sections, being ok on uneven exposed areas, and long abseiling on vertical and vastly exposed sections. This sort of climb is more of an art form combined with pure strength and grit. So now that we have mentioned the level you need to be at, the expeditions mentioned below will give you their fair share of amazing technical climbing challenges.

AMA DABLAM 6810M EXPEDITION

Ama Dablam is our very first recommendation because the summit success rate is relatively higher compared to other peak expeditions on the list. It does have to do with its popularity and many other teams being in the mountain.

Dominating the views of the Khumbu trail, Ama Dablam is picturesque it is this magnificent peak also provides the challenges of climbing a technical peak expedition. Ama Dablam is the third most peak expedition permit that is issued every year. With Autumn being 90% of the permit issued, if you want to see very few climbing teams then spring climb should be your choice. This one is a must for all mountaineering enthusiasts.

Ama Dablam expedition Difficulty

CHOLATSE 6440M EXPEDITION

Cholatse expedition is considered a step up or technically challenging mountain compared to the Ama Dablam expedition. This towering 6640M peak sits right between Gokyo valley and Everest. Do not underestimate the peak because it does now tower above 6500M. The never-ending knife-edge ridge sections above 6000M and climbing on the super exposed mixed section are not to be taken lightly. These types of expeditions are more for the alpinist nature who loves the art of alpine climbing and perseverance.

Cholatse expedition Difficulty

PUMORI 7161M EXPEDITION

Pumori 7161M mountain peak is another technically challenging peak to climb in the Everest region. Pumori is another mountain that dominates the view during trekking or climbing in the Everest region. Climbing via the South East Ridge route, the route is wildly exposed with several exposed crux at higher altitudes. Climbers wanting to take on the challenges of the Pumori peak expedition should not take it lightly and previous climbs of extreme altitude technical climbs are a must.

Since it is located opposite to Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse south face the events on the other side of the mountain cannot go missing. Some Everest teams use Pumori an acclimatization peak.

Pumori 7161M expedition difficulty

Want to plan Pumori 7161M Expedition with the Namas Adventure team? Email us at - bookings@namasadventure.com. Once we form enough team with 4+ members we can start planning this expedition.

We will add more expeditions of such types as we explore these types of climbing expeditions.

Explore more. Go.

Live Your Story

Read More
7000m peaks, mountaineering, 8000M Peaks Namas Adventure 7000m peaks, mountaineering, 8000M Peaks Namas Adventure

Experiences, fitness level and skills required to climb Ama Dablam expedition - Namas Adventure

Ama Dablam Summit push

Ama Dablam Summit push

What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Ama Dablam? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Ama Dablam?

In order to successfully ascend Ama Dablam, it is essential for individuals to possess a strong foundation in high-altitude mountaineering and alpine-style climbing techniques. This includes proficiency in scrambling, traversing, and navigating steep rocky or icy terrain, as well as the ability to safely utilize fixed-line ropes and climbing gear. Additionally, it is important to be acclimatized to and comfortable with cold conditions. It is strongly recommended that individuals have prior experience climbing peaks of 6000 meters or higher in order to adequately prepare for this expedition. It should also be noted that Ama Dablam presents its own unique set of challenges and potential hazards, thus, it is imperative that individuals are thoroughly prepared and confident in their abilities to handle the aforementioned skills and conditions.

What are the prerequisites for climbing Ama Dablam?

Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.

Individuals contemplating an ascent of Ama Dablam should possess a strong background in high-altitude climbing, specifically by having successfully climbed several peaks ranging from 4000 to 6000 meters that require semi-technical to technical climbing techniques. For those seeking additional challenges, many climbers choose to tackle Ama Dablam following their successful expeditions on peaks such as Mount Everest or K2. Ama Dablam is a popular destination among those who thrive on the demands of alpine climbing. Some notable examples of such peaks include Alpamayo, Mount Kenya, Denali, Mount Everest, Baruntse, and Manaslu. These peaks generally require significant technical expertise, particularly in the areas of ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending. Having experience climbing such peaks would qualify one to undertake the challenging ascent of Ama Dablam.

Fitness level - 5

For our Ama Dablam mountain expedition, we have established a fitness level of 5. This signifies an exceptional level of overall fitness, including the ability to cope with and acclimatize to high-altitude environments. It also requires a high degree of endurance, strength, and mental toughness, as well as the ability to withstand extreme weather conditions for extended periods of time. Participants should also be prepared for the physical demands of carrying 8-12kgs of loads over multiple days. Given the challenging nature of this expedition, previous experience in high-altitude climbing is highly recommended in order to prepare both mentally and physically for the demands of altitude and terrain.

Preparing for the exceptional conditions of an expedition such as Ama Dablam requires a significant level of dedication and effort. To achieve the required fitness level, individuals should strive to achieve high levels of endurance and strength.

To provide a general indication of the level of fitness required, it is recommended that individuals be able to run a half marathon to a marathon distance, or cycle for 5-6 hours. For those who prefer hiking, being able to carry a load of 25 to 30 kilograms and hike for 6 hours+ is a good benchmark. Additionally, being able to complete a triathlon is a strong indicator that an individual is at their physical peak.

Additionally, a good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented through a variety of approaches, such as participating in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training. It is important to note that this training should be done under the guidance of a professional trainer or coach to ensure that it is tailored to an individual's specific needs and goals.

Skills to be learned.

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it really simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.

  1. Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.

  2. Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.

  3. Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.

  4. Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c. Indoors or outdoors. (For reference check out our - Alpine grading)

  5. Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

  6. Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4 (required for Spring Ama Dablam expedition)

Participating in an Ama Dablam expedition requires a solid foundation of previous high-altitude climbing experience and a strong understanding of various climbing techniques. Additionally, having additional essential skills such as rope techniques, rock climbing, and ice climbing can greatly enhance your chances of success. If you are unable to find mountains to climb in your area, a deeper level of indoor and outdoor rock climbing can help you maintain your skills and fitness levels.

While most commercial expeditions take care of the logistics, it is still important to be prepared and to have a good understanding of the technical aspects of the climb. Thanks to the expertise and competence of the Sherpa guide leaders in Nepal, summit attempts on Ama Dablam are now more accessible than ever. Some of our Nepalese guides even consider this peak to be their favorite climb, and it can serve as a great training ground for higher and more challenging peaks.

It is important to note that the success of an expedition depends on the competence of all team members, from operational management to field guides. Once you have signed up and have the necessary skills and experience, it is critical to commit to a physical training regimen in order to be fully prepared for the demands of the expedition.

Challenge yourself. Go. Live Your Story

ama dablam expedition

Climbers above camp 3 making summit push during Ama Dablam expedition.

Are you considering an ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal? If you are eager to tackle this stunning and challenging peak and progress to even higher mountains, the team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is here to help make your dream a reality. We would be happy to assist you with any questions you may have regarding the expedition. To contact us, please email us at bookings@namasadventure.com or give us a call/WhatsApp at +447446976060 and one of our team members will be happy to assist you.

Read More