New Mt. Everest expedition rules 2019
We all know the news of Everest casualties during this year’s (2019) expedition. 11 climbers deaths, 9 from Nepalese side and 2 from Tibetan side. Nepal issued a record number of 381 permits issue this year. There has been conflicting ideas on why climbers died. Traffic jam near the Hillary ridge ( above 8000 M ) was pointed out by many but just that one problem does not address the key issue of the expedition. A lot has to do with inexperienced climbers, exhaustion, altitude sickness, incompetent/inexperienced guiding team and cheap expedition. This has been pointed by many experienced sherpa climbing leaders ( Kami Rita Sherpa, 24 Summits) as well as non-Nepalese veteran climbers.
Rules from Tibetan side of expedition are strict compared to the Nepalese side. Climbers requires a proof of having summited one 8000M peak before they can climb Everest from the tibet side, where as in Nepal rules were climbers should have climbed at least one 7000M peaks.
Nepal’s ministry of tourism has proposed new rules and regulation to tackle issues in response to this years incidents. Also, this has to be passed through parliament first for the rules to come into effect for 2020 spring expeditions. New rules are focusing on operators, climbers and government officials at Everest base camp and the route. The government is also considering requiring mandatory health checkups at Everest Base Camp.
Climbers must prove ( certificate mostly ) that they have at least climbed one 6500 M Nepalese peaks before.
Climbers must also submit a certificate of good health and physical fitness and be accompanied by a trained Nepalese guide.
Expedition company must prove that they have 3 years of experience organising high altitude expedition before leading clients to Everest.
Minimum charges of Everest expedition $35000 per bookings ( $11000 permits included) to be charged. * Cheap Everest expedition were blamed by most of the Sherpa leaders for attracting in-experienced climbers.
Minimum charges of $20,000 for any expedition above 8000M+
Climbers attempting 8000M+ peaks to undergo basic and high altitude climbing training.
Other ideas passed on
improvements in the rope fixing process, primarily with respect to getting the ropes in earlier and some type of improved weather forecasting system
Theft of oxygen cylinders during the expeditions
Traffic monitoring at base camp and higher camps.
So, does this mean the quality of expeditions will improve dramatically? Maybe yes and No. The challenge has always remained with Everest expeditions and the traffic or long queue is not a new news. There has been rise in number of climbers since 1990 and only looks to grow.
The ideas proposed seems to just address the issues vaguely and does not take into account of finding solutions whole heartedly. Certainly expedition companies has to be more responsible when taking inexperienced clients to these extreme altitudes and government implementing tougher rules & regulations can be one way. Regulators needs to listen to experienced veteran Nepalese and non-Nepalese climbing leaders, operators, mountaineering community and boards on how to increase the quality and safety of Everest expeditions. It is no easy fix and the challenge will always remain but the obvious issues (like inexperience climbers or teams ) should be tackled with strict rules and implementation.
Everest is an optimum challenge we as an individual can choose to face. We support and encourage you on your aspiration to endeavour on taking the journey of the highest challenge that man kind can face. But all we ask is taking a route that protects you and your team, enriches you with the experience of alpinism and eventually fulfilling your aspirations.
* Cheap expedition - Discounted Expedition were ran on as low as $20,000 p/p which dramatically reduces
and impacts the quality of the expeditions both for the individuals and the operating team.
Nutrition for Mountain climbing - Namas Adventure
NUTRITION FOR MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
Climbing high altitude mountains for both sports and recreational purposes is an immense physical challenge. Altitudes above 4000M to 5000 M are considered high altitudes and 5000M above are considered extreme altitudes. You have to be physically, psychologically, and mentally prepared. Preparing yourself by exercising and practicing techniques, getting the right gears are important parts of mountain climbing. However, to be able to make yourself stronger during training and climbing days getting the right nutrition is very important. Did you know that taking the right diet can improve your effort ability by 20% overall? It is easier said than done but when it comes to mountains and high altitude you might want to dedicate yourself to this regime of the right amount of exercise to make you physically fit and eating well. The right nutrition is another factor in your performance.
“ Did you know that taking the right diet can improve your effort ability by 20% overall”
Research has shown that when climbing high altitude mountains climbers can burn anywhere from 6000 - 10,000 calories per day. Losing weight is very normal and you will have to gain your strength back quickly. Your digestive system won’t work the same way as it does at a lower altitude. Your system will want to reject food as it does not want to put in much effort and forcing yourself to eat is necessary. Carbohydrate (carbs) is your best friend when it comes to nutritional value but also do not forget the proteins and fats. You will have to snack a lot with easy-to-absorb carbs, hydrate often, during your climbing hours, and when you rest during dinner at your camps more carbs and proteins. Fill up that glucose in your body as it stores fats in your body which your body will use when needed or during the hard push.
“60% - 70% of your meal nutrition should be carbs, 20-30% proteins and 5% - 10% fats”
Recommendations
High carbohydrate foods - Rice or whole grain products, bread, pasta, fruits rich in natural sugar ( banana, oranges, blueberries, grapefruit, apple) sweet potatoes, potatoes, milk, Quinoa, kidney beans & chick peaks.
You can also pack dried frozen dried meals that are easily packable, 90% lighter, preserve the natural taste, gives you nutritional value. Easy to prepare, just pour boiling water, stir and wait about 10 minutes, and feast on it. This is highly practical as it makes logistical planning much easier. We recommend (LYO FOODS) they have some great options, especially for mountaineering.
Proteins sources mile & cheese, meats, tofu, eggs, lentils and seeds, and nuts.
Fats source dried meats, butter or ghee, chocolate, olives.
Keeping yourself hydrated throughout is very very important. You will sweat a lot, we recommend you to intake anywhere from 4l- 6l of water every day. Just drinking normal water is not enough. It is necessary to add hydrating tables with electrolytes in your water. Products recommended ( SIS hydration tablets, Nunu Hydration tablets )
Mini brunches when hiking/climbing for 6- 10+ hours is very crucial. Your body quickly burns all the nutrition within 2-3 hours and you will need to often replenish those nutrients. You will need foods that don’t have to be cooked, easily packable, and rich in nutrition. Bananas, chocolate, nuts& seeds, jerky or dried meat, hydration tablets, energy gels, and bars are highly recommended. Every night prepare it in a sealed bag or an area of your backpack where you can store and reach them easily. These superfoods will give you that much-needed energy, thus, you’ll feel active for a longer time.
I hope this article was helpful. It is very important that you pay attention to your diet nutrition especially during your climbing days. Remember to take in a lot of carbs during your trekking/expedition lunch or dinner time. Snack a lot, almost like a mini brunch every 2-3 hours, to give your body a constant flow of energy and stay hydrated (add hydrating tables) every time. I personally have suffered during my climbing days for not eating well or not staying properly hydrated. So I hope you can follow the suggestion and enjoy your climbing. During your trekking/expedition on all our itineraries, meals with these nutritional values are served at the lodges we rest or during camping. Extra food is always helpful. Please ask our team how much you will need to personally pack.
One more thing, do not intake any alcohol, especially during your climbing days. You will see Sherpas or porters who have always been climbing drink but you need to remember that their bodies have always been through this every year in and out. So comparing it won’t help, instead, save it for the last and enjoy your beer after your climbing is finished when you return to base camp or the nearest lodging area.
Also, please carry your waste with you all the time and dump them on your next village or lodging spot. Encourage your team not to litter the mountains as the waste might never be removed from these remote and pristine areas.
Keep exploring, eat well take on that challenge. Mountains are calling. Go live your story.
References -
https://lyofood.com/blogs/lyofood-blog/nutrition-at-high-altitude?welcome
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/12-healthy-high-carb-foods
Written by - Bisesh
Mera Peak a treat of panoramic Himalayan vista - Namas Adventure
MERA PEAK A TREAT OF PANORAMIC HIMALAYAN VISTA
Now, I am not exaggerating by that headline for Mera Peak. In this blog post, I am trying to share the visual journey of the Mera Peak trek/climb. First let me admit, although Mera Peak is classed as a beginners peak, I was dead tired (exhausted) by the time I got back from Summit to high camp. To me, that climb did not feel like a beginner’s climb or maybe I just was not fit enough (gotta train harder). Every Sherpa leader that I met there was like yes, this is the easiest one and the only peak with a very wide 360 views of all the Himalayas. I could feel my whole body burning with tiredness and at the same time, I was ecstatic as well because I was back safely from the summit. It was not that I had doubts about making it to the summit but I wasn’t expecting the degree of fitness I needed to have to make that climb. I have so much respect for all the Sherpa leaders that can just march up these peaks like it’s a walk in the park and I could only imagine the level of fitness everyone has when they guide the guest to 7000 - 8000 M peaks. I have realized that I need to upgrade my level of fitness by some fold and have more experiences under my belt to climb higher mountains. Next stop Baruntse Peak 7129, Tilicho peak 7134, Amadablam (climbers consider this tougher than Everest) the tough one 6810 technically challenging, Manaslu 8156 in the next 2 years.
So first all the technical details about Mera peak. The peak stands tall at 6476 M tall in Makalu valley. The mountaineering association in Nepal considers Mera as a trekking peak rather than an expedition peak which is just about right.
Beginners/ Intermediate trekking peak. No mountain climbing experience is required for this trip. Although previous trekking experiences do help.
18 Days total climb. But can be shortened 12/13 days, Mera Peak express ( Taking helicopter from Lukla to Kothe or Khare to Lukla. Additional charges apply)
Fitness level required. Endurance and strength training suggested.
Pro tip: To better your chance of making it to the Summit, make sure your itinerary has Base camp 5200M and high camp day 5800M. Both are tented camping.
Gears rentals can be done in Khare but I would highly recommend getting your own gears. I rented their equipment ( sleeping bag ) for the sake of trying and I would not recommend it at all. You will need all the mountain climbing gear for this trek. Even the boots are made of plastic ones which do not provide enough protection from the cold.
Best time to visit. March-May ( less traffic ) September - November ( high traffic )
Next goal Baruntse or Tilicho Peak ( 7000+M) mountain.
360-degree views of the Himalayas from high camp all the way to the Summit. Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and hundreds of small peaks are visible. On a clear day expect yourself to be completely blown away by the never-ending view of Himalayan vistas.
Mera peak trip was a job as well as an adventure. So the trekking trail separates from Lukla going south in the other direction than the Everest trail. That helps us avoid all the huge traffic that goes to the iconic base camp trail. The trek up to Nimgsa is pretty much walking one hilly trail, passing through small villages. But after that, the trail gets tougher and the snow made the trails even harder at some point. Mera isn’t a popular choice as Everest trails so the trails are not as well taken care of or are built like most on Everest base camp trails. On some part, we literally had to use our hands and feet to just climb the steep stairs and the trail wasn’t a gradual one. One minute it goes straight up and the other minute it’s a steep downhill but after Kothe camp, it was gradual uphill which was good.
The Himalayas are only fully visible after we left the Kothe camp. As we were gradually going higher the mountain tops with different shapes slowly appear and the next thing you know it’s on your right/left and slowly the Mera range appears right above on the right corner. We made a pit stop at a nearby glacier lake, which was 90% frozen. Kothe was our final tea house camp place. By the time we get to Kothe, we are now pretty much walking by the mountains. I could see this frozen sharp ice on the cliffs of the mountains. Finally, upon arrival in Kothe, we could see Mera peak and the other range just above. Our guide (Lopsang Sherpa) pointed to us the glacier we were to walk on before reaching high camp. To my surprise, the tea house in Kothe was the best one out of all during the entire trek.
So we acclimatized and rested in Kothe for a day then we set about for Mera Peak base camp. Now, this is the most tricky bit in Mera. Mera base camp is only built upon request and many will say oh! why did you have to have Mera base camp or it is not necessary or you can make your way to high camp directly. A lot of the operators choose not to do this because it adds an extra day to the itinerary or is only 3 hours walk from Khare camp. But when it comes to mountain and you want to better your odds of making it to the summit and completing your trek/ expedition rather than rushing and not acclimatizing properly. So, as a company, we choose to have Mera la Base camp in our Itinerary so that our clients and group has a better chance of successfully completing the journey. Then once we rested at base camp and moved on to High camp that’s when the real test began. From this day onwards we are on our harness, ropes, crampons, and mountain climbing shoes. Perfect practice for the next day’s summit climb. From the base camp, the terrains is completely different. We started off with a steep 80 degree walk up the snowy hill and then to the blue ice glacier climbing 4 - 5 hills to Mera high camp. You are walking slowly on those ice paths all the way to the Summit. Still, a tiring walk but the place they chose for a high camp has such a great view. It looks crazily dangerous as the campsite is just on the flat base side of the cliff and a 500-600 m drop after that, somehow it’s safe to station the camp there. So, the group arrived there and we rested in our camp waiting for the big day tomorrow. We briefed our team the next day as we had to start our climb to the summit at 4 am in morning.
The next day we were all set and ready to go at 4 am. We started in the dark and sunshine was scheduled around 4:30 am-ish, so as we were making our climb on the snowy slopes we could slowly see the sun rising just behind the Himalayan ranges. What a sight, to see the colors change and the white snow slowly light up making the whole climb shinier and brighter. Shades on and we started to move up to the summit. The walk to the top was a killer one. So on the high altitudes, anyone climbing is not supposed to stay out exposed out in the cold/ wind for long. Every break we took was a quick 30s to 1 min and then off we go again. I can’t remember the number of breaks we took but I am pretty sure we take a handful of one. It took us around 4 hours to get to the summit. Just when we were to reach the summit the final climb was a 90-degree vertical ice block and at that moment in my head, I was like how am I to climb this and then our climbing leader just took us a sideways walk from and slowly side-stepping we climbed the to the summit. I was exhausted, tired but joy overfilled me with what we had achieved. The whole group was at the summit and we spoke on the radio with our team at Kothe camp. There were congratulation, hugs, laughter, and tears. This was one of the hardest things that I had done but definitely worth it. This was it all the month’s worth of planning and preparation was for this climb. All the clients were at the top which was another achievement for all the Namas adventure team.
This was definitely a great experience for me because as a founder of Namas Adventure I want to understand as much as I can of work that goes during our tour operations which gives me the perspective of how our staff is doing while on tours and expeditions, as well as understanding in what ways we can improve in our services, having a great time with people with the same interest and enjoying my passion of climbing mountains, inspiring through our work and seeking for greater adventures.
This is the story I chose and it has been an amazing learning and developing so far. The story continues ahead and our message as a company leads with inspiring human individuals to choose to live their story.
Live Your Story.
See you in future adventures and good luck with many adventures ahead. The upcoming expedition that I will be joining Baruntse Expedition, Manaslu Expedition, and Amadablam Expedition.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Training for Mountain climbing Expeditions - Namas Adventure
TRAINING FOR MOUNTAIN EXPEDITION
The goal of your training is to get physically and mentally prepared to successfully complete your expedition. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout our expedition. Mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. As you will be climbing in high altitudes, both your cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at different levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain. The greater your level of fitness, the more efficiently you can acclimate to the altitude. Fit climbers spend less energy on certain tasks, leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatisation.
When training you should particularly focus on two key areas of endurance building, developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart and lungs) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, agility, and balance), following specific goals and timelines.
We suggest all our interested climbers commit to at least a minimum of four-six months of training time depending on your expedition.
ENDURANCE TRAINING
Endurance fitness is considered the most important for all mountaineers. Your expedition and body will demand various levels of intensity all day throughout. Excellent cardiovascular and motor fitness is very necessary. This can be both aerobic exercises as well as muscular endurance exercises.
Long-distance slow- running is one of the best ways to build your endurance fitness level.
CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS
Cardiovascular Endurance is the ability of the heart and lungs to supply oxygen-rich blood to the working muscle tissues and the ability of the muscles to use oxygen to produce energy for movement. To get the most from your cardiovascular workouts, the ACSM suggests that you exercise three to five times a week at 60 to 90 percent of your maximum heart rate. Sessions should last more than 30 minutes, and you should choose exercises that use large muscle groups in a rhythmical fashion, such as long-distance cycling, running, swimming, or rowing. If you live near mountains hiking with 20/25kgs for 10miles once or twice a week is the best way to gain even more real-world experiences.
STRENGTH AND MUSCULAR ENDURANCE
In addition to leg strength, mountaineering requires a strong core (back and stomach) as heavy pack weights add a new dimension to climbing. Strength training principles are essentially the same for upper and lower bodies. Strength training can involve bodyweight exercises as well as routines using traditional weights. Kettlebell routines or even CrossFit training programs are helpful to build your overall body strength.
P.S. - Make sure you are working out your cores too.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Squats, lunges, and leg presses with weights 5 - 20 kgs
Push-ups, pull-ups, and military presses
Sit-ups, chin-ups, bicycle kick, leg raise, abdominal exercises, planks
Kettlebell - Lunges, Squats, overhead press
Training Plan example:
We have attached the training log of Bisesh’s when preparing for Baruntse climb and he will follow a similar time frame and routines for other 8000M+ expeditions.
Recommended Book for Mountain training: Training for the New Alpinism (Click here)
When you near your expedition date, begin making your workouts more mountaineering specific with hikes and climbs and occasional interval sessions aimed at broadening your range of comfort at various effort levels. Nothing beats the old and tested method of long hikes in uneven and steep terrains (adding weights to on your backpack) which best replicates the enviroment you are going to be in when climbing in Nepal, Pakistan or anywhere around the world.
P.S - Make sure you stretch after every long interval training. Stretching helps reduce muscular tension and increases flexibility.
Preparing yourself by committing to weekly training routines is very important. Expedition in the mountains/Himalayas requires a lot of physical, mental, and psychological toughness. This nature of activity demands athlete-level fitness. It is about putting yourself in the uncomfortable zone and pushing yourself to higher limits to see what you as a person can achieve. Mountaineering expeditions of any type should not be underestimated. The journey is a challenge in itself. It will push you out of your comfort zone and you will need to dig deeper mentally and physically. It is worth every effort and this will be your life’s greatest adventure. On a plus side, it will motivate you to lead a healthy and inspiring life.
Now you know how you have to train for mountain expeditions. Get yourself out there, enjoy your training, and stay fit and together with Namas Adventure’s team and like-minded adventurers, let’s take on your expeditions into Mera Peak, Island Peak, Aconcagua, Amadablam, or other higher mountains. Happy Adventure.
Article references
Live strong: https://www.livestrong.com/article/534286-six-components-of-fitness-related-to-motor-skills/
Very well fit: https://www.verywellfit.com/interval-training-workouts-3120774
Shape.com: https://www.shape.com/fitness/workouts/interval-training-short-workouts-really-pay
Here is a video of Chad Kellogg's training for Everest.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Equipment checklist for Mountain / Peak climbing from 4000 - 7000M
EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST FOR MOUNTAIN / PEAK CLIMBING FROM 4000 - 7000M
Good solid gears are an integral part of a successful peak or mountain climbing. We have listed the absolute necessities of mountain climbing gears to help you on your journey to the summit. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by our Everest and other 6000+ expedition leaders. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear. The listed gears below are for mountain and Himalayan peak from 4000 to 7000M. Expeditions which we operate at Namas adventure ( Mera Peak, Island peak, Mount Blanc, Aconcagua ), are the recommended essential gear for extreme conditions.
Climbing Gears
Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel or similar brands)
Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
Carabineers: 3 lockings and 6 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Trekking Poles
Mountaineering boots
Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva GSM2 or equivalent
Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection (North face, Salomon, La Sportiva, or similar mountain brands )
Gaiters
Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Flip flops / Slippers
Body Layers
2 merino base layers: top/bottom set
1 mid-layer top: breathable Underwear
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore-tex and breathable
Hooded Hard Shell: Gore-tex and breathable
Hard Shell Pants: Gore-tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North face Himalayan parka or equivalent with 600-800 down fills
Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Hiking Shorts
Headgear and Handwear
Wool hat (ski hat)
Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
Under helmet Balaclava
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
Softshell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Equipment & Personal Gears
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
25L - 35LTrekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 to - 40°F. Goose down or synthetic
Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed-cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon
Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
Multisport watch with Altimeter & GPS navigation
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
Lip balm with sunblock
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
Thermos: 1 liter (buy good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and a small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers
Penknife or multi-tool (optional)
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
Travel Clothes
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smartphone, etc
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*
Apart from your personal clothes and shoes most of the mountain gears, sleeping bags, and mats can be rented when you are planning an expedition in Nepal, France, or Argentina.
Companies recommended
Climbing Gears - Black diamond, Petzl, Grivel
Mountaineering boots - La Sportiva, Kailas, Mammut, Scarpa
Trekking Boots - La Sportiva, Northface, Patagonia, Mammut
Body Layers - Northface, Mountain hardware, Mammut, Patagonia, Arctyrex, Marmot, Rab
Headgear and hand wear - Northface, Mountain hardware, Patagonia, Mammut
Glasses - Julbo
Other gear companies: Exped, Garmin, Goal zero, Bio lite, MSR Gears
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.