Namas Adventure 2/11/22 Namas Adventure 2/11/22

Everything you need to know about Cholatse 6440M climbing expedition - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about Cholatse 6440M climbing expedition

Cholatse expedition route. South west ridge

Cholate expedition is considered the next stage of commercial climbing a technical peak in the Himalayas. This expedition is for climbers who are planning a technical challenge climbing at 6000M - 64000M altitude. Grade route WI2+ M3-4 A1-2. If you have climbed Ama Dablam or other technical peaks around the world at D+/-, 5.9/5.10 grade levels, then you can consider yourself qualified for the Cholatse expedition. This expedition is not for any beginner but rather for advanced-level climbers.

Although the Khumbu region is the most popular region amongst hikers and climbers, this area around the Gokyo region sees the least amount of visitors, and at the area where Cholatse/Taboche peak is located, there are almost no people in sight. Consider this a hidden gem to climb in the Khumbu region.

Everest or Khumbu region is the mecca for high altitude climbers and every year there is a flock of climbers into the region but Cholatse received fewer climbing teams which make it perfect for climbers who prefer fewer/uncrowded and technical climbing expedition. Also, preks f this expedition is visiting the beautiful Gokyo valley. A must-go destination, acclimatize at 5000M level and set yourself ready for a challenging expedition to Cholatse.

1. When is the best time to climb Cholatse Peak?

Cholatse is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Spring (Late March-May) and Autumn (September - November). During both seasons there aren’t as many climbers as other peaks in the Everest regions. So climbers can expect a low number of climbers.

For experienced climbers, winter climb is still possible but this comes with a lot of uncertainties. i.e unstable conditions, tea houses may not be operational or even the ones operating won’t be well-stocked. Pre-arrangements will have to be made but that will also depend on the number of climbers.

2. Is it possible to shorten the Cholatse expedition or what extensions trip are recommended?

Please contact our team for other extension options. (Inquire)

Extensions:

+ Ama Dablam 6810M (Additional 7 - 10 days) - Cost $6000 USD P/P

3. How much does the Cholatse expedition cost? What does the cost include?

The cost of the Ama Dablam and Island Peak expedition with Namas Adventure is $7250 per person for a 27-day itinerary and $9,500 per person for a 21-day express itinerary. Our team provides premium, all-inclusive services, including 1:1 climbing support, local guides who share their knowledge of culture and traditions, and a focus on safety, successful summit strategy, and top-quality base camp support. Our team is dedicated to being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure operator, so climbers can fully enjoy their climbing experience.

NNMGA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at High Camp
40Kgs per person
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Peak Permits)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. Are guides necessary for climbing Cholatse Expedition?

To issue permits for the Cholatse expedition climb, you will have to go through a registered local company. With any commercial expedition, certified guides are a must. But for climbers of all advanced/pro levels, we highly suggest climbing the peak with local guides at least as a backup support crew up to base camp and for any emergency situations. Experienced climbers/guides who want to venture into new routes will still have to be assigned a local guide even if they don’t prefer them climbing with them. So, yes legally speaking guide assistance is required.

Even the usual southwest ridge climbing route does have several crevasses and new hazards may appear every climbing season. This is a very technical and challenging peak, so should not be taken lightly.

5. What is the best acclimatization itinerary for Cholatse expedition?

For climbers, acclimatizing properly for high-altitude climbing trips is a must. Our expedition itinerary planning allows you to acclimatize to higher elevations, giving your body the time it needs to adjust to the altitude. With years of guiding experience and well-known scientific literature, we know that this is the only way for your body to adapt after gaining elevation. With that knowledge and experience, our team has built up the itinerary for this expedition.

On the Cholatse climbing trip, we make sure we have 1 - 2 rotations up to camp 1 so that we can get a feel of climbing. The first crux section in the mountain is the ice wall that leads to a steep ice headwall climbing up to 5700M where camp 1 is set up, this will also be our rotation strategy. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can acclimatize properly, experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you and be stronger to further push onto your summit bid.

6. What training is required for this expedition? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Cholatse climb is by no means an easy or comfortable climbing expedition. This expedition is not for the beginner or intermediate-level climbers. Also, climbers with only high altitude non-technical style experience will struggle in this expedition. This mountain will test you on every inch and will push you further in your technical climbing abilities.

Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers focus on endurance and strength/muscular training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. We can also suggest high-intensity training like cross-fits are a good way to build your overall fitness or kettlebell training are also suggested.

More on our training mountain expedition blog.

download 6000M+ training template

Technical climbing

With your technical climbing abilities for this expedition, you should be comfortable with the ice and mixed climbing. If you can climb anywhere above WI 2+, M 3- 4, and rock 5.4 + then these skills will be necessary for the mountain to overcome the obstacles. Ice and mixed climbing skills are a must for this expedition.

7. How hard is the Cholatse expedition climb?

Cholatse is graded at TD/5. (Alpine/fitness grading link).

Climbers are expected to be exceptionally fit. The day climbers leave from base camp to higher camps, the real expedition begins. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude.

The first real crux starts through navigating the icefall and facing a steep 45 - 60 degree headwall on the west col of the mountain. Just above the ice headwall in the narrow areas of the rocky slab is where we set up camp 1. The most difficult section of the entire expedition is from camp 1 to camp 2. Lots of different styles of climbing on open exposed, unprotected loose rocky sections. Once you are over the rocky part of the climb another 500M vertical climb further on up the knife-edge ridge, crossing crevasses, ice walls, and uneven sections. There is no comfortable place to rest before reaching Camp 1. You can expect a long- tedious climb on this day. Expect to climb around 8+ hours which depends on your climbing ability, eventually to make it to camp 2.

Camp 2 to the summit is relatively short, about 250M but another super-focused day on climbing on knife-edge ridge with 1000M drop on either side. Climbers will have to navigate uneven ice walls and trails that pass through them, climbing over them to make it to the summit. Cholatse Summit is a small plateau, comfortable one for the group to rejoice their summit moment. Summit is only halfway done and you will have to descend down to camp 1. Since climbers will have used a lot of energy climbing up the mountain, they have to stay focused when abseiling down the same exposed steep mountain.

You can expect to climb around 10+ hours on this day as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp1. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through this final day.

More in-depth details in our Cholatse Expedition page strategy.

8. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Cholatse expedition (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears in Nepal?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during nighttime when temperatures can go down to -10/-25. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? We provide gear rentals exclusively for Namas Adventure clients during our climbs. All the gears are in the best condition, clean, and highest quality. Kailas equipment, black diamond, Mountain Hardwear provides all-out mountaineering gears. (Namas Equipment hire link)

HIRE EQUIPMENTS WITH NAMAS ADVENTURE

If you want to hire it from other local sources in Nepal, our simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it.

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sportiva G2 or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

9. What types of foods are available during the expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Cholatse expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Cholatse Expedition?

Recommended 7000M Expeditions

Once you have completed your expedition and when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 7000M+ peaks that you can aim for.

HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M EXPEDITION

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

Himlung Himal Summit 7126M
The south flank of North-west ridge route, Camp 1 - 3 strategy
7 - 13 days in Himlung Himal Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Nar & Phu Villages and Manaslu conservation area

BARUNTSE PEAK 7129M EXPEDITION

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

Baruntse 7129M summit, Mera Peak 6476M (Acclimatisation training peak)
South-east ridge route, Camp 1 - 2 strategy
5-10 days in Baruntse Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M and Khumbu Valley

TILICHO PEAK 7134M EXPEDITION (TECHNICAL CLIMB)

TILICHO 7134M EXPEDITION

Tilicho 7134M summit
North-West Shoulder ridge route, Camp 1, 2 and 3 strategy
7 - 14 days in Tilicho Base Camp 4910M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Tilicho Lake and Annapurna Circuit trek

Cholatse climbing is a must for any climbers who wish to push their technical abilities in the mountains. Granted it does not offer the charm of 8000M but the style of climbing needed during this expedition pushes you to your limits. We hope the information we have provided will help you decide or prepare for your outing in the best way possible. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal, join us on our Cholatse climbing expedition! You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

Cholatse 6440m Expedition

Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Cholatse 6440M in Nepal? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Challenge yourself. Dare great things. What’s stopping you?

GO. LIVE YOUR STORY

Namas Adventure 11/15/21 Namas Adventure 11/15/21

11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal - Namas Adventure

11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal

Finally, as the world is opening and countries easing restrictions, it is now time to go on those amazing mountaineering adventures. The best mountain adventure itineraries are mixed experiences of raw alpine climbing moments, giant beautiful mountains, remote environments, welcoming locals, unique cultures, newer perspectives, and adventure challenges that bring upon that realization of what’s possible for yourself. The past 2 years have been challenging to many of us and now it is finally an opportunity to reflect and venture out. In this post, we have listed 11 amazing peak climbing expeditions up to 6500M destinations that will satisfy your mountaineering needs in 2022.

POPULAR PEAKS (Beginner or Intermediate level climbers)

Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M

For any climbers wanting to start their journey of climbing in the Himalayas, we highly recommend climbing Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M in 2022. Both the peaks are semi-technical climbs in nature. Mostly mixed climbing, jummar, and abseiling are required.

This expedition will help you understand the nature and ways of climbing in the Himalayan peaks and glimpse into the culture of Nepal. Although we will be able to train and help beginner climbers during this expedition to fully enjoy your trip, we recommend climbers to have a basic mountaineering course, ice climbing, or even a climbing course. Any one of these courses will help you when climbing these 2X6000M+ peaks. Also, remember you will have to be physically fit (endurance and strength).

P.S.- we have departures in spring and autumn every year. 🙂

Lobuche East & Island peak Expedition

Mera Peak 6476M

If you are an absolute beginner novice climber and want to jump straight into climbing a Himalayan peak then we can vouch Mera Peak 6476M will be the right expedition for you.

Mera Peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are no technical objective dangers apart from a few small crevasses, but with guided ascents, this expedition is a perfect way to start your mountaineering journey in 2022. We provide jummar, abseil, and how to walk with crampons on training during this expedition. Lastly, the views from the summit are just out of this world. Several 8000M such as Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and several 7000ers and 6000er peaks are clearly visible on a clear weather day. You won’t forget this climb 🙂. Also, physically you will have to be fit in both endurance and strength.

Mera Peak Expedition

1 Month getaway, peak challenge

Khumbu Three Peak Expedition

Climbers looking for month-long expeditions to spend some lengthy alpine moments exploring different 6000M peaks with different climbing challenges then, Khumbu Three peak expedition is the perfect expedition to choose in 2021. Although all the peaks are classed for beginner climbers we would recommend this to intermediate level climbers who want to build their endurance for climbing further into higher 7000M peaks. During this expedition, you will come across Baruntse 7129M, Makalu 8463M, Ama Dablam 6810M, Everest 8848M, Lhotse 8516M. So the next time you want to climb higher into 7000M or 8000M giants then this is the perfect recon expedition.

You can start either way from Mera Peak passing through Amphu Lhabtsa pass into Khumbu valley to climb Island Peak and Lobuche East or the other way around. Either way, this expedition will test your patience and make sure your endurance tank is full for this one. You are in for an amazing month-long journey.

Note - We organise Khumbu three peak expeditions every year, both during spring and autumn.

KHUMBU THREE PEAK EXPEDITION

REMOTE AND FEWER CROWD EXPEDITIONS

While the Everest region dominates the number of visitors they receive each year, we highly encourage climbers to consider something different and other beautiful destinations in Nepal. There is no shortage of raw alpine moments and you can find peaks that are non-technical, semi, or super technical in nature. We believe these destinations deserve your attention and you won’t be disappointed by any of the adventures you choose in these remote parts of Nepal. So, let’s go and explore these least explored peaks and claim our summits.

Chulu West 6419M and Far East 6059M

Chulu Peaks are situated in the heart of the Annapurna circuit region. There are 3 peaks and summits (West, Far-east, and East) in the Chulu mountain range. For anyone seeking a non-technical climb, we recommend peak Chulu Far east 6059M which is suitable for novice climbers and is pretty much a trekking peak.

Chulu West 6419M is a semi-technical climbing peak and with the assistance of our guides, beginner or intermediate level climbers will be able to successfully climb Chulu West peak. If you want to explore the beautiful Annapurna region and climb beginner-level peaks in the region then we have departures here every mid-spring and autumn. We highly recommend adding another 3 days to your expedition to visit the emerald blue 😍 Tilicho Lake 4900M.

Join us every year on this remote expedition in the beautiful Annapurna region. This region and peak certainly deserve your attention and alpine moments.

chulu west expedition

Yala Peak 5700M

Another remote destination in the Langtang region. Perfect climbing peak novice climbers who have never climbed any peaks. We recommend this amazing peak climbing expedition to anyone who wants to avoid the crowd and somewhat morden Everest region.

Langtang valley was the most affected region by the 2015’s earthquake in Nepal and ever since this region has been struggling to welcome back its visitors. The locals will thank you for choosing Langtang as your preferred destination and there is no shortage of other peak climbing objectives in this region.

Want to explore and climb Yala Peak 5700M in the Langtang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

inquire - yala peak private expedition

Saribung Peak 6328M

Saribung Peak in the centre with glacier hole.

Saribung Peak Climbing has is another option for anyone seeking a new peak climbing destination to climb in the remote Mustang region of Nepal close to the Nepal-Tibet border. What’s particularly interesting about this expedition is its entry in the forbidden Kingdom of Mustang which exposes climbers to newer and diverse cultures of the Nepalese Tibetan traditions. There are very few trekkers and climbers going into this region.

The peak is classed at PD grade with fitness level grade at 2 to 3 for any interested climbers. This expedition features off the beaten path trekking to base camp, semi-technical climb, old isolated villages such as Nar-Phu and from the summit on a clear summit day, giant mountains such as Nilgiri Himal (7,061 m), Himlung Himal (7,126m), Lamjung Himal (6,983m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m), and Annapurna II (7,937m).

The best time to go plan this expedition is during Spring (Mid March-May) or Early Autumn (End of August - November). Participation when taking part in these expeditions needs to be moderately fit although the peak itself is not a super touch technical climbing peak.

Want to climb the remote Saribung peak 6328 in the remote corner of the Upper Mustang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

Inquire - Saribun Peak Expedition

Larkya Peak, Sano (Small) Summit 5807M or Thulo (Big) Summit 6249M

Larkya Peak 6249M expedition is another hidden gem in the Manaslu circuit region. The peak is classed at PD+ mountain grade with 2 to 3 fitness grade requirements. You will need around 18 to 20 days to complete this expedition.

The trek leading up to the Larkya pass is a beautiful journey and the base camp lies close to the pass. Larkya peak expedition hosts two summits (Sano and Thulo). The climb to the Thulo or higher summit is longer hence a high camp has to be set up, which is recommended in order to acclimatize properly before proceeding higher. With the high camp set up, it is a safer way to access both the summits.

Given its location, you can be guaranteed to see the giant views of Manaslu 8163M, the Annapurnas, Ganesh Himal, and beyond.

Want to climb and double your summit at Larkya Peaks in the beautiful Manaslu circuit region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

Inquire - larkya Peak Expedition

Dhampus Peak 6012M (Thapa Peak)

Dhampus Peak 6012M is also referred to as Thapa peak. This is another beautiful trek and peak expedition to climb in the Dhaulagiri circuit region. Dhampus peak is a chained prominent peak of Dhaulagiri along with Tukuche Himal to the west of Kali Gandaki valley.

This peak is also graded at PD+ mountain grade and 2 to 3 fitness level grade. When there is less snow in the peak the climb is straightforward mostly on the slopes and a few rock scrambling sections around the summit area. When there are ice and snow then it gets a bit challenging as it required mixed climbing. Although this peak is suitable for beginner-level climbers we encourage climbers to at least have a winter mountaineering course, which will give you greater confidence during your expedition.

There are two routes to reach the base camp via Dhampus pass 5240M and Kali Gandaki valley side of the mountain to a makeshift Yak heard campsite and finally crossing to Dhampus pass. Once climbers reach Dhaulagiri base camp they camp here for 1 or 2 days and then head higher to french pass to finally head to the hidden valley where the base camp is set up for Dhampus peak summit bid. Totally isolated, raw, and with fewer climbs this expedition can be one of the most rewarding expeditions to accomplish and keep in your adventure memories.

Want to explore the raw Dhaulagiri base camp and climb the totally isolated Dhampus Peak 6012M? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

Inquire - Dhampus Peak Expedition

TECHNICAL CLIMB (For Experienced climbers only)

Cholatse Peak 6440M

Cholaste Peak 6440M expedition is not for inexperienced or intermediate-level climbers. This expedition is considered more of alpine-style climbing. Graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grading this mountain expedition is a serious undertaking. Cholatse peak is rated as the same or above Ama Dablam 6819M when comparing the mountain difficulty levels. There are no easy routes to the summit and descend and the southwest ridge is mostly used by the expedition team.

It is one of the more prominent peaks on the approach to the Mt. Everest Base camp. South West Ridge route is considered the expedition route which involves climbing steep snow and ice pitches linking two camps to the summit. The route ascends through snow slopes leading to a crux section on the rock. The climb is mostly on glacial ice on an exposed ridge. Once past the difficult section, the climbing reaches a steep and another exposed ridgeline that plateaus onto the summit dome. There are fewer teams in Cholatse compared to the Ama Dablam expedition.

P.S- We will be organizing Cholatse Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:2 guide/client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas. We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members

Inquire cholatse expedition

Taboche (Tawoche) Peak 6501M

Climbers looking to climb other 6000M expeditions that are challenging and technical then Taboche Peak 6501M is another option. This is a very striking peak that is connected via a long ridge with the Cholatse peak. This 6500M peak is also graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grades. This expedition can be combined with the Cholatse peak expedition sharing the same base camps.

Getting up the mountain takes a lot of your energy and is only recommended to experienced skilled climbers especially those seeking technical alpine-style climbs on steep slopes, penetrating rocky pitches, and thick, dense ice. The total expedition can take around 25+ days to complete. Interested climbers should be highly skilled in ice and mixed climbing and climbing in exposed sections of high altitude.

The base camp is set up at 5200m and the following acclimatization at either Gokyo RI or Kalapatthar. Climbing up the peak is a strenuous journey with some experienced climbers taking around 10 days to complete the 1200M climb to reach the summit. This is a rocky, icy, and technically competent mountain.

P.S- We will be organizing Taboche Peak and Chotase Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas.

INQUIRE - TABOCHE PEAK EXPEDITION

KYAJO RI 6186M EXPEDITION

Right in the central of Khumbu valley lies this beautiful technical peak. Kyajo Ri 6186M is graded at AD+ mountain grade with 3 to 4 fitness levels required to take on this peak. There is almost no fixed rope on the route and there are fewer unacceptable dangers when compared to Cholatse or Taboche Peak. Kyajo Ri involves steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, mixed ice and rock climbing, and crampon techniques, and ice ax arrest skills are required.

Southwest ridge is the normal and safer route accessed via the southeast col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Teams will do about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Namche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo. The summit is a sharp-edged peak with no room for many climbers at once.

There aren’t many expeditions running in this peak in any given years, at least yet, and can host a comfortable and beautiful base camp deep in the isolated section of the Khumbu region. This peak is perfect to test our tour technical climbing abilities.

Note- We will be organizing Kyajo Ri Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing high technical peaks in the Himalayas.

Conclusion

There are plenty of mountaineering objectives to take upon for your mountain climbing adventure in Nepal. This is no new news. Where ever you stand on your climbing experience and level there is plenty of inspirations and challenging mountain peaks to climb in Nepal. As always Everest region dominates with travelers every year but even with that, there are pockets of destinations that host fewer climbers like Cholatse, Taboche, or Kyajo Ri peak mountains.

Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, and Island Peak will see more climbers because of their accessibility, no of teams, and classic guided mountaineering styles. These features of the mountain make it favorable for most beginner or intermediate level climbers to take on these beautiful peaks.

Meanwhile, Chulu West or the Far East, Yala Peak, Dhampus peak, Larkya peak, Saribung peaks lie in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri zones. These areas are already isolated and there are fewer trekkers and climbers in this region. If you particularly want to be away from everyone and want to enjoy your mountain expeditions in isolated and be exposed to unique cultures and traditions then these are the 6000M expeditions we recommend for beginner or intermediate level climbers in 2022.

Question

Are you planning your next mountain expedition in Nepal? What is your preference when planning a mountain expedition in Nepal (Remote or famous peaks)? What is your experience level? Are you a novice, beginner, intermediate, or professional skill level climber? Which mountain peak do you want to climb in the Himalayas?

Our team can assist you in your dream expeditions and help you achieve your summit safely while creating lifelong memories to cherish.

Climb that mountain because it’s there.

Go. Live Your Story.

Namas Adventure 9/15/21 Namas Adventure 9/15/21

Everything you need to know about three peak expedition, Peru - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about Three peak expedition, CORDILLERA BLANCA, Peru

1. Which mountains does Three Peak expedition include?

Nevado Mateo 5150M

A perfect summit to begin our expedition. In just one day we will climb through moraines, glaciers to reach the summit. The climb is non-technical in nature giving us perfect acclimatisation or an entry-level peak to climb in the Cordillera Blanca.

Nevada Ishinca 5530M

Ishinca 5530M is one of the most beautiful and interesting peaks to climb in the Ancash region. Ishinca can be used as a climbing objective or acclimatization peak before climbing other 6000M peaks in the region. Excellent peak to climb for skilled mountaineers and can also be used as a training peak. Gradual climbing is recommended with a base camp set up and is suitable for climbers seeking less technical routes.

Tocllaraju 6032M

Tocllaraju is a beautiful mountain that dominates the view in the Ishinca valley. Shaped like a beautiful pyramid, Tocllaraju 6032M is one of the challenging peaks to climb located in the central-southern part of the Cordillera Blanca.

We will climb via the standard route, the North-West Ridge to the summit. The most technical part of this peak is the overcoming of the bergschrund at the base of the summit mushroom and the slope above it, which can be graded at AD/D- depending on the conditions of the crevasse and ice section in the same area. On the ridge and final climb to the summit, we will have to use ice climbing techniques to climb to the summit.

2. When is the best time to climb the Three Peak Expedition?

Three peaks are best suited to climb during the summer season every year. June - August or mid-September are the best time to plan this expedition.

3. Is it possible to shorten this Expedition?

Yes, this trip can be shortened. Climbers can choose to summit just 1 or 2 peaks out of 3. A guide member will assist the climbers all the way to Huaraz and return arrangements to Lima will be arranged accordingly.

4. How much does it cost to climb the Three Peak expedition in Peru? What does the cost include?

With Namas Adventure, the Three Peak expedition costs $4300 | £3150 | €3700 P/P. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

1:1 Certified Mountain guide (UIAGM – AGMP)

$200 Individual tip pool. * Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
Transfer airport/hotel / airport – Lima
City touring Lima
Bus ticket Huaraz / Lima, executive service in public bus-Movil Tours or Cruz del Sur
Transfer/bus station/Hotel – Lima
Transfer hotel/bus station – Huaraz in Hotel
Hotel In Huaraz, according to the program 04 nights. Double room with breakfast included
02 Nights Hotel in Lima / Double room with breakfast included
Tour of Acclimatization
Cook and Helpers
Porters, donkeys, and drivers
Entrance fee National park Huascaran
Private transportation Huaraz / according to the program/Huaraz
Complete meals during the trek program and climbing program
Kitchen/dining tent
Cooking equipment
Collective technical equipment
Tent for 2 Person
Toilette tent
First Aid

5. Are guides necessary for this expedition?

For beginner to intermediate climbers, we highly suggest climbing these peaks with guides. This trip lasts for 16 days so you can expect a lot of tiring and dreadful days (especially during the Tocllaraju climb) so to keep you safe and going experienced guides is very essential. New technical hazards may appear every climbing season as you never know with the mountains. So to have a safe and successful expedition local knowledge and guidance are key and very important.

6. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for the Three Peak expedition?

For climbers, acclimatising properly for high-altitude climbing trips is a must. Our expedition itinerary planning allows you to acclimatize to higher elevations, giving your body the time it needs to adjust to the altitude. With years of guiding experience and well-known scientific literature, we know that this is the only way for your body to adapt after gaining elevation. With that knowledge and experience, our team has built up the itinerary for the three peaks.

On our Three peak expedition, we make sure your first and second peaks are slowly and gradually helping climbers acclimatise. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the mountains all around you, and gain enough strength to make your summit climb. Once you have successfully summited two of three peaks then your body will have already acclimatised for the final peak - Tocllaraju 6032M.

7. What training is required to climb the Three Peak expedition, Peru? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

All three peak in this itinerary is by no means an easy walk in a park climb, even though we grade it as a beginner’s to intermediate climb. The first two peaks Mateo and Ishincia are non-technical climbs, so with good fitness, you should be able to summit these mountains. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers focus on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (15km - 20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Kettlebell routine training can be implemented or Cross-fit training is also suggested. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

Download 6000M+ peak training template

Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.

8. How hard is Three Peak Expedition climb in Peru?

Mountain Grades: Nevado Mateo (F), Nevado Ishinca (PD) and Tocllaraju (AD) (Alpine grading link)

Nevado Mateo and Nevado Ishinca are achievable objectives for climbers of all experience levels. Yes even for the beginners. Tocllaraju is the most challenging peak in this expedition. Technical skills of climbing high in the altitude around 5900M with an ice axe are required. Traversing and climbing ridgelines are a must, thus climbers must be comfortable with higher altitudes.

Summit climbs are the most difficult and longest days. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude. Once you depart from base camps the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. You will be walking/climbing/descending for almost 10+ hours on each summit day. Summit day climb starts early (3 or 4 am) with the goal to reach the summit or near the summit by sunrise. This will be the most challenging and rewarding part of the climb. Since this itinerary is only successful after summiting 3X 6000M+ peaks, climbers will need to have a lot of endurance stamina in their banks. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through to complete your expedition.

9. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for this expedition (trekking and mountaineering)?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during the night when temperatures can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Boots (trekking and mountaineering)

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

10. What types of foods are available during the expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

Yes, mineral water is available to buy in most of the tea houses. During base camp and alpine camping days, we will access water via the river or boil frozen ice which will be collected by our kitchen team. We suggest all our clients drink 2 - 4 liters of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our kitchen staff members. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. Special Peruvian local dishes are prepared by our kitchen team members. In the high altitudes, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couples of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

11. What trip insurance will I need for this Three Peak expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

Peru doesn’t have a helicopters evacuation service, all the rescues are on land. Rescuers from the Mountain Guides Association of Peru do this work. Insurance should include up to 6000M climb which should cover all medical expenses.

Yes, it is very important. Many of our expeditions are in remote places with no roads and developing medical services. In the unlikely event that you get sick, you want to get good medical care ASAP.

Coverage varies based on your nationality and the trip that you are taking with us. Our recommended providers are found on our Travel and Rescue Insurance page. When you have booked a trip with us, we will also send you more comprehensive information on various insurance options.

12. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after the Three Peak Expedition in Peru?

Once you have completed your Three Peak expedition with us in Peru when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 6000M - 7000M+ peaks that you can aim for.

BARUNTSE 7129M EXPEDITION

Baruntse 7129M summit, Mera Peak 6476M (Acclimatisation training peak)
South-east ridge route, Camp 1 - 2 strategy
5-10 days in Baruntse Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M and Khumbu Valley

Baruntse Expedition

Himlung Himal Expedition 7126M

Himlung Himal Summit 7126M
The south flank of North-west ridge route, Camp 1 - 3 strategy
7 - 13 days in Himlung Himal Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Nar & Phu Villages and Manaslu conservation area

Himlung Himal Summit. Pic by - Elisa Rotterud. (Autumn departures)

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

PUTHA HIUNCHULI 7246M

7246M summit
Camp 1 - 3 strategy
5-14 days in Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Far western region of Nepal, isolated and remote Dolpo region

Inquire Putha Hiunchuli Expedition

Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M

Lobuche East & Island Peak

Conclusion

Three Peak expedition in the Cordillera region of Peru is one of the most exhilarating adventures of a lifetime. Like every other mountain climbing trip, this is a worthwhile adventure. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your three Peak climbing expeditions. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Peru then we would love to have you onboard for our climbing trip. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Three Peaks in Peru? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Three peak expedition - peru

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure 12/20/20 Namas Adventure 12/20/20

Everything you need to know about Mera Peak 6476M climb - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about Mera Peak 6476M climb

Mera Peak is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails and of course beautiful mountains all around.

But before you embark on one of the most amazing adventures, we have listed 11 useful informations that will help you prepare for your Mera peak climbing expedition.

1. When is the best time to climb Mera Peak?

Mera Peak is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). During both the season there aren’t as many climbers as other peaks such as Island Peak. So climbers can expect a low-medium number of climbers.

2. Is it possible to shorten Mera Peak climb?

Mera peak climbing can definitely be shortened but this comes at an additional cost. At Namas adventure, we do provide these services for private client groups ( 2+ members). The shortest Itinerary we can make it up to is 10 days Itinerary. Extra charges apply of an additional $4000 - $4500 applies since we will have to charter helicopter services. Please contact our team for other flexible options.

3. How much does it cost to climb Mera Peak? What does the cost include?

With Namas Adventure, Mera Peak costs $3650/£2850/€3300 per person. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
35Kgs per person
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. Are guides necessary for Mera Peak?

To issue a permit for Mera Peak climb, you will have to go through a registered local company, for this purpose guides are hired. For beginner to intermediate climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The usual climbing route does have a crevasse and new hazards may appear every climbing season. Experienced climbers/guides who want to venture into new routes will still have to be assigned a local guide even if they don’t prefer them climbing with them. So, yes legally speaking guide assistance is required.

5. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Mera Peak climb?

Mera la Base Camp 5415M

Mera High Camp 5800M

On high altitude climbing trips like Mera Peak climbing expedition, it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. With years of climbing -guiding experiences and well-known scientific literature, we know that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation. With that knowledge and experience, our team has built up the following Mera Peak Itinerary.

On Mera Peak climbing trip, we make sure your itinerary has both Mera Peak base camp and high camp. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gain enough strength to make your summit climb.

6. What training required to climb Mera Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Mera Peak is by no means an easy climb even though we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers to focus on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

download 6000M+ Peaks training plan

7. How hard is Mera Peak climb?

Mera peak is graded at 1B. (Alpine grading link).

If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude. Once you depart from Mera Base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. You will be walking for 4-6 hours to reach high camp. Summit day climb starts early (3 or 4 am) with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit by sunrise. This will be the most challenging and rewarding part of the climb. You can expect to hike around 10+ hours on this day as you will have to summit and then descend back to Khare village. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through this final day and to the Summit.

8. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mera Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mera Peak climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during nighttime when temperatures can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gears.

Renting your gears in Nepal? We provide gear rentals exclusively for Namas Adventure clients during our climbs. All the gears are in the best condition, clean, and highest quality. Kailas equipment provides all-out mountaineering gears. (Namas Equipment hire link)

If you want to hire it from other local sources in Nepal, our simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it.

Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Mera Peak

9. What types of foods are available during Mera Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Mera Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Mera Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Mera Peak climb?

If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.

Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing

Island Peak is another 6100+ M peak that includes some technical climbing sections compared to Mera peak. To reach Island peak after Mera Peak climbers will have to climb via Amphu Laptsa Pass 5845M and then descend to Imja valley. Island peak is also known as Imja Tse peak (Local name).

Three Peak Expedition (Mera, Island and Lobuche)

This expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and a challenging feat on climbing on Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189M), Lobuche East (6119M).

Mera Peak 6476M

Island Peak 6189M

Lobuche East Peak 6119M

Once you have completed your Mera Peak climb and when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 7000M+ - 8000M+ peaks that you can aim for. Baruntse Peak Expedition 7129M, Himlung Himal Expedition 7126M or Manaslu Expedition 8163M.

Mera Peak is one of the most exhilarating adventure of a lifetime. Like every other mountain climbing trip this is a worthwhile adventure. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Mera Peak climbing expedition. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mera Peak climbing trip. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Climb - Mera Peak link

Namas Adventure 3/26/20 Namas Adventure 3/26/20

Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing - Namas Adventure

Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing

Investing in the right boots is a must for any high altitude mountaineering activities. We highly suggest all climbers to not cut corners while purchasing these essential life-saving equipment. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice/rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We recommend you go to your nearest store to try it on and give it a feel on how you feel when trying on these boots. In the end, you should feel comfortable with those boots. We have listed three of our favorite boots which are suitable for Mera Peak climbing.

La Sportiva G2SM

La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double-layered system can withstand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots have a sturdy and quality feel and have BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged, unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)

Scarpa Phantom 6000

Lightweight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is built for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)

GTX Mountaineering Boots 5000m

With classic style Kailas GTX performs well in the rugged conditions. Lightweight, insulated (able to withstand up to -30C, all crampons compatible, these boots are suitable for 5000M+ to 65000M mountaineering activities.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure team.

Namas Adventure 2/27/20 Namas Adventure 2/27/20

Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak Expedition

Choosing the right footwear is critical to climb and summit higher peaks. Baruntse Peak standing tall at 7000M + peak demands climbers to wear appropriate mountaineering boots, which must fill in numerous roles. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice / rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We have listed boots from several brands which is suitable for your Baruntse Peak expedition.

La Sportiva G2SM

La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double layered system can with stand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots has a sturdy and quality feel and has BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)

La Sportiva Baruntse

The name itself suggest this boot particularly for Baruntse and any other 6000M-7000M peak expeditions. A sturdy built mountaineering boots specifically designed for high altitude mountaineering expedition. It is a double layered boot highly insulated boot with with tradition lacing style system. (Boot review)

Scarpa Pthanom 6000

Light weight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is build for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)

8000M Boots

For any climbers looking ahead for bigger expedition in near future, investing right away in a 8000M expedition can be a great idea, saving any extra expenses. Climbers normally use 8000M peak boots even during 6000M + expeditions. (Kailas Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons cube, Scarpa Phantom 8000)

Investing in a right gear is a must and a necessity when taking upon such great expeditions. We always advise our climbers to try them on when buying one and see which you feel most comfortable with, at the end it is your climb. If you want to take upon 7000M + peaks like Baruntse with Mera Peak expedition or Himlung Himal expedition , Namas team is here to be at your service and help you summit these amazing peaks while having a great time.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure team.

Namas Adventure 2/23/20 Namas Adventure 2/23/20

Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition strategy - Namas Adventure

Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition Strategy

Himlung Himal (7126M) is one of the most accessible peaks in the Himalayas (Nepal). Located just between North of Manaslu 8163M and the Annapurna Himalayan range, Himlung is a peak for any mountaineering enthusiast looking to climb a 7000M peak that is remotely situated and provides all the aspects of challenging mountaineering adventure. As we prepare to plan for this expedition from 2021 onwards, we want to share our climbing strategy which was pioneered by Paulo Grobel along with Nepalese guides, paving expedition strategy routes (safer/enjoyable) for future climbers. If you are looking for an amazing time in the Himalayas, do join our expedition. Another amazing 7000M peak to consider is Baruntse Peak expedition.

Base Camp to Camp 1 (Co-ordinates: N 28° 45 384 E 84° 22 147)

The new base camp also called ‘French base camp’ is comfortable, with water nearby and sheltered from avalanches. The logistical challenge remains to pitch the camp as it seems a bit complex when crossing through the Pangir Glacier on big inconvenient boulders and the way up the moraine on the right bank is exposed to rockfall.

Our strategy will be to conduct 2 rotations between BC- Camp 1 and Camp 2 (weather conditions permitting) and then summit push from camp 2. Note - Camp 3 is an alternative solution but due to its risky nature, the lead guide will only strategize camp 3, if needed after assessing the situations in the mountain while on expedition.

Camp 1 6000M to Camp 2, 6200M (2X rotations target)

Access to Base Camp from Camp 1, is quite simple and very quick (2 to 3 hours) on a trekking terrain, with moraines and small valleys. The snow conditions may alter the progression, of course, but there is no slope subject to avalanches on the way up.

Himlung Himal camp 2 6200M — Himlung Himal , Camp 2, 6200M

From Camp 1 heading on to camp 2, then traverse across a perched scree slope that leads to the side of the glacier. Following the side of the glacier (crevasses and disturbed terrain, rocks, and snow) until climbers can stand up on the flatter glacier, with big steps; a few twists and turns are needed. Depending on the season and the snow conditions, this part represents the trickiest part of the ascent. We continue up on the glacier, avoiding a few crevasses. We find suitable terrains to set up our camp on the ‘Glacier Camp’. It is pleasant and vast enough to welcome several groups. It seems subject to little, if any, risk of avalanche (to be verified depending on conditions). We climb with ropes attached together on the glacier, which shows little danger of falling into crevasses.

Camp 2, 6200M - Camp 3 (Optional)

Camp 3 is only a short distance (1 hour) away from camp 2. Heading to Camp 3 from Camp 2 is a comfortable reach, we climb by continuing up on the icy escarpment up to the last place before the ridge (a few ups and downs). Camp 3 remains an option due to its risky nature of being on the ridge. Guide members will only decide after inspecting/discussing amongst themselves whether camp 3 is safe and actually required. (to be double-checked under exceptional snow conditions).

Camp 2, 6200M - Summit 7126M - Camp 2 or 1

The climb is long and cannot be reduced with an additional high camp. The first part of the ascent consists of reaching the pass across snowy slopes, a little bit steep (30°) and exposed. Fixed ropes are often installed by the lead guide and once we are past that, then the slopes become less steep, with a few flat bits.
After the crevasse opening, which is generally not a problem, the slope on the side of the ridge becomes steeper. This is the steepest part of the whole climb: about 400m at 30/35°. In hard/frozen snow conditions, there is a high risk of falling, so we install fixed ropes on this part as well. The route then reaches a less steep ridge, up to a flatter section before the small final slope.

After the summit, we descend down to camp 2 or camp 1. Then the next day we head to base camp, pack all our gears and celebrate our summit success, reflect and have a more joyous night, and prepare for the next day’s journey towards Kathmandu and thus ending our trip.

If you do have any more questions or want to join our yearly spring or fall Himlung Himal expeditions then please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as we can.

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things. Live your story.

More route reference: Paulo Grobel

Namas Adventure 1/22/20 Namas Adventure 1/22/20

Everything you need to know about Island Peak climbing - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about

Island Peak 6189M climb

ISLAND PEAK EXPEDITION

Planning on climbing Island Peak 6189M?

Here is everything you need to know about climbing this most popular 6000M+ peak in Nepal. Since 2016 we have been leading climbing groups to Island Peak and with our suggestions, our clients have been successfully able to enjoy while achieving their summit success.

1) When is the best time to climb Island Peak?

For most climbers, Island Peak is best suited to climb during Spring (March-May) or Autumn (Mid-September - October) on any given year. The weather during these times in the Himalayan region and most of the places in Nepal remains stable, which is perfect for adventure activities. Spring season is chosen for most of the 8000+M expeditions in the Everest region, so you can expect trekkers’ crowd on the trails. However, once you reach your Island peak camping site, you can see the numbers dropping down drastically as the majority of the people on the trails are there for trekking.

Winter climbing is still possible, but we recommend this for individuals with a vast amount of mountaineering experiences, almost at the pro athletes’ level. Temperature is very low and weather conditions are harsh. It can be down to -25/-30 C and winds can pick up to 60mph+.

2) Are guides necessary for Island Peak?

Without the help of Sherpa guiding leaders, we do not recommend climbing in the Himalayas, unless you are a mountain guide yourself. You will have to walk through support ladders with crampons on while crossing the crevasse openings. The final climb to the summit is a 90-degree vertical climb where you will have to use ascenders to climb all the way up to the summit. Climbing a peak is not just about reaching the summit. You also need to consider the effort on descending back safely which can be equally exhausting as this requires your full focus as well. You will have to use atc or figure 8 gears to descend below from the peak.

We do collect mandatory pre-tour tips, which include summit bonus, tips to all the staff members involved in your climbing, porters, assistant guides, airport pickup/drop off drivers, and hotel helpers/securities. We fairly distribute these tips based on the type and amount of work each member has performed. Additionally, if our guests want to make extra personal tips, then they are more than welcome to do so.

3) What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Island Peak climb?

When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences. What we have found in general is that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation.

On Island Peak climbing particularly, we highly suggest taking 2 days of acclimatization at Namche Bazar and an additional 2 Days stop at Dingboche. We then make sure your itinerary has both Island Peak base camp and Island Peak high camp afterward. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gained enough strength to make your final climb.

4) What training is required to climb Island Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Island Peak is by no means an easy climb although we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on its technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse. We highly recommend focusing on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

Download Island Peak training Plan

Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tools. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness. Beginner Ice climbing alone is another course that will help you with all the required skills.

5) How hard is Island Peak climb?

Island peak is graded at 2B in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).

If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is hard but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude. When you finally come across the vertical wall, this will be your final challenge. On top of that, you will be walking for 4-5 hours by the time you reach at this point. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges.

6) What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Island Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Island Peak climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Island Peak

7) What types of foods are available during Island Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couples of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

8. How long do climbers hike or climb every day?

On usual trekking days, you will be walking for 5 - 6 hours a day covering 10km - 14 km. But on the summit day, your climb could last up to 8 - 9 hours since it is advised to go as slow as possible, using the right amount of energy for the long duration and inhaling as much air as possible.

9. Everest base camp tips

Island Peak itinerary falls right in the middle of the Everest base camp trek. That’s why we have chosen to have it on our itinerary so that climbers can visit this iconic Everest base camp and see the great Khumbu icefall, the doorway to Everest climbing. See more on our blogs about Everest base camp tips.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Island Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Island Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Island Peak climb?

If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Island peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.

Mera Peak 6476M with Island Peak

This itinerary takes you through the highest trekking Peak Mera 6476 M and then down to cross Amphu Lapsta pass. The route takes you down towards Barun valley where Baruntse Peak 7129 M peaks stand tall and towards Mera Peak, the highest trekking Peak in Nepal.

Island Peak with Lobuche Peak climbing

Lobuche Peak is another 6100+ M peak that is often used by Everest summit climbers as acclimatization peaks. The peak is just two camps away from Island Peak and is a great combination should you want to take upon two peaks at once.

Three Peak Expedition (Mera, Island, and Lobuche)

If you want to aim higher after Island Peak towards 7000M+ peaks then Baruntse 7129 M, Himlung Himal 7126 M are some of the peaks climbing we would recommend. Just climbing Island peak won’t be enough, we suggest you climb more different technical and non-technical peaks in Europe around the alps if possible. Amadablam Expedition is another super technical and tough mountain we would like to recommend but you will have to be extremely great with your mixed climbing skills and be fit both mentally and physically.

If you are planning to climb Island Peak in any given year, we run climbing trips every year during Spring and Autumn.

Please click the link to be directed to Island Peak Expedition page.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure team

Namas Adventure 1/15/20 Namas Adventure 1/15/20

5 Things to know about Mera Peak climb - Namas Adventure

5 things to know about Mera Peak climbing

Mera Peak link

When is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak?

March-May ( Spring ) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak.

Is Mera Peak suitable for beginner climbers and what kind of fitness do I need?

Yes, Mera Peak is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. To reach summit 6476M you do not need any special climbing skills with ropes, gears, and use of an ice axe. Mera Peak is a very popular destination for clients with little or no mountaineering experience. The mountain has fewer to non-technical challenges, there are 3-4 small opening crevasses during the climb but apart from that, the climb is straightforward. All climbers are recommended to partake in preparative fitness and altitude training before attempting an ascent. You should be able to carry 5-8 kgs of your bag pack, walk up and downhill every day for 15/16 days and be able to push yourself during the summit climb.

Physically for beginners, Mera Peak can be demanding. We highly suggest you train yourself well over 6 - 4 months before your trip. You will need good endurance and body strength. Aerobic exercises mixing with overall body strength-building routines should help you prepare physically for your trip.

Can I see Mt. Everest from Mera Peak?

From the summit, five 8,000m peaks are visible: Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga, as well as many other Himalayan peaks. The standard route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult technical routes.

How hard is it to climb to the summit of Mera Peak?

Mera Peak is classed as 1B alpine grade. When it comes to an expedition the more fitter and stronger you are, the better your chances of successfully climbing to the summit and most of all enjoying the expedition. Summiting Mera Peak mostly depends on the weather condition and your fitness level. The climb normally starts around 3/4 am in the morning and it is about 3-4 hours climb to the summit. For any climbers it is a technically straightforward ascent, the main hurdle being proper acclimatization to the high altitude.

Which Mountain can I aim for after Mera Peak that’s above 6500M?

If you have got time and you are feeling extra adventurous then you can either Mix Mera Peak with Island Peak, which takes you through a beautiful and challenging Amphu Lapsta pass. On the way, you will also come across Baruntse 7129M and Makalu 8481M. Or you can simply take on our challenge of three 6000M+ Peak expeditions. (Mera, Island and Lobuche East) Peaks (Click for expedition Link)

Our main suggestion is to take it one step at a time. The lure of Everest is there but taking small steps, gaining the right experience, and understanding your physiology is very crucial for climbing higher mountains. Amadablam 6810M, Baruntse Peak 7129M, Manaslu 8163M, Tilicho Peak 7134M are some of the 7000M+ - 8000M+ Peak expedition we operate and organize at Namas adventure.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure 9/11/19 Namas Adventure 9/11/19

Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition strategy - Namas Adventure

Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition strategy

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

Baruntse Peak standing at 7129 M mountain is situated in Nepal between Mount Everest and Makalu in the Barun-Makalu National Park. Mount Baruntse is a substantial and symmetrical snow peak, has four ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. The three main ridges of Baruntse are situated between these glaciers and form an upturned ‘Y’running from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north past the Humni La, on to the north summit where it divides. Other well -known mountains in this area are Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Everest, and the trekking-peak Mera Peak.
Bruntse was first climbed on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd, Geoff Harrow of the Hilary New Zealand Expedition. They have climbed the mountain by the southeast Ridge. Since then many climbers have used this route and succeeded. This mountain has also been becoming coveted day by day like the other Pumori, Ama Dablam as well as Everest too.

Expedition Route

The south-east Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions have been good and the mountain has been found to be objectively safe at this time. There is still a debate on which season it is best to climb Baruntse as in the past few years 2013 - 2018 more summits have been done during the Autumn season. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.

Expedition Strategy

Acclimatizing at Mera Peak 6476 M

Baruntse Base Camp (5640 M)

After summiting Mera Peak, the team heads towards Baruntse Base Camp 5460M. 500m descent down into the Honku valley climbers is assured with rich oxygen, warm weather, and sunny spell making good conditions for a good night's sleep. The natural environment around is utterly desolate and utterly magnificent in its desolation.

Baruntse base camp is at 5460M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for Camp 2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 M is placed, from where the summit is attempted.

The team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike glacier just outside of camp and spend a few sessions perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. The hike features dirt trails, scramble over rocks, and crossing the beautiful glaciers. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse peak and then head back to Baruntse base camp.

Puja Day Ceremony ( Rituals ) Base Camp - West Col - Camp 1 (6100 M) Approx 10 hours

Photos by - David

A Puja ceremony, rituals are performed praying and asking permission to the god mountain for safe passage, success, and safety of the team in the morning, which is customary before beginning a climb. Many of the western climbers participating takes part by placing an object to be used in the climb - an ice axe, crampons, boots - on an altar that was made from stones and adorned with Tibetan buddhist prayer flags. The ceremony is concluded with readings and ritual blessings.

Guiding Sherpa leader teams fix the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas set up the safest way through the crevasses, overhangs, and icefalls.

Sirdar Sherpas team carry loads from basecamp at 5400 meters to camp 1 at 6100 meters and then returned to basecamp. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West col which is the final ascent before reaching Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consist, 45 degrees 200-meter high ice wall. Beautiful views on the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu, and the Amphu Lambtsa La which all the climbers will have to cross in a few day’s time when returning to Lukla.

Clients are meant to carry their personal loads 8kgs - 12kgs throughout the climb.

Camp 1 - Camp 2 (6,400M) or Advanced camp 2.1 (6,500M) | Time approx: 3 - 4 hours

Camp 2 (6,400M) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse south-east. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle-like slope.

Camp 2 - Summit Push - Back to Camp 2 or 1 | Time approx: 10 - 12 hours

Technical Challenges at 6900M ridge

Pic by - Karvaniers

Very sharp ridge at (approx 6900m). The sharp ridge provides excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Sherpa team fixing the rope will assess the crevasse opening ridge and there is a consideration of adding a ladder at the top if needed. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further 60 - 90 min climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalayas.

Making it to the summit is 60% job done. Descending is one of the grueling parts of climbing parts of mountain climbing. From there the descendant with all the abseiling skills will demand the climber’s full attention. So, climbers can celebrate their moment at the top. If weather permits and stays are non windy then climbers might be able to enjoy 30 - 60 min of a celebratory moment with the panoramic view Himalayas. But normally our Guiding team will advise the climbers when to descend down. It’s best to celebrate and at the same time refuel and gain some of your energy back to be able to descend back to camp 2 or 1 safely. A lot of the mountain incident happens on the way back while descending.

Amphu Lapcha Pass 5800M

After summiting Baruntse mountain, the journey back still hosts more surprises, and before climbers reach to next civilization at Pangboche. Morene country, over boulders, passed lakes to the foot of the beautiful Amphu Lapcha. Amphu Lapcha hosts zigzag glaciers with base camp at North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. From Amphu Labtsa pass grants us views of Imja Valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, just awesome.

Advice to climbers keen on climbing Baruntse Peak

Enthusiast climbers will definitely have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 250- 300 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. Route fixing guides/Sherpas have to take a large number of ropes to fix the way. Baruntse is not for novices climbers. Climbers need to have some experience at least. Climbing experiences on both the alps, Andes mountains, and the Himalayas is necessary. Climbers with some experience in mountain climbing it is another great experience to climb Baruntse to further bag and gain a lot of knowledge in mountaineering.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Baruntse expedition

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Further Source:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baruntse

https://www.summitpost.org/baruntse/153293

Namas Adventure 8/15/19 Namas Adventure 8/15/19

New Mt. Everest expedition rules 2019

We all know the news of Everest casualties during this year’s (2019) expedition. 11 climbers deaths, 9 from Nepalese side and 2 from Tibetan side. Nepal issued a record number of 381 permits issue this year. There has been conflicting ideas on why climbers died. Traffic jam near the Hillary ridge ( above 8000 M ) was pointed out by many but just that one problem does not address the key issue of the expedition. A lot has to do with inexperienced climbers, exhaustion, altitude sickness, incompetent/inexperienced guiding team and cheap expedition. This has been pointed by many experienced sherpa climbing leaders ( Kami Rita Sherpa, 24 Summits) as well as non-Nepalese veteran climbers.

Rules from Tibetan side of expedition are strict compared to the Nepalese side. Climbers requires a proof of having summited one 8000M peak before they can climb Everest from the tibet side, where as in Nepal rules were climbers should have climbed at least one 7000M peaks.

Photo by- Nims Dai / Nirmal Purja 2019 Project possible. Everest expedition.

Nepal’s ministry of tourism has proposed new rules and regulation to tackle issues in response to this years incidents. Also, this has to be passed through parliament first for the rules to come into effect for 2020 spring expeditions. New rules are focusing on operators, climbers and government officials at Everest base camp and the route. The government is also considering requiring mandatory health checkups at Everest Base Camp.

Climbers must prove ( certificate mostly ) that they have at least climbed one 6500 M Nepalese peaks before.
Climbers must also submit a certificate of good health and physical fitness and be accompanied by a trained Nepalese guide.
Expedition company must prove that they have 3 years of experience organising high altitude expedition before leading clients to Everest.
Minimum charges of Everest expedition $35000 per bookings ( $11000 permits included) to be charged. * Cheap Everest expedition were blamed by most of the Sherpa leaders for attracting in-experienced climbers.
Minimum charges of $20,000 for any expedition above 8000M+
Climbers attempting 8000M+ peaks to undergo basic and high altitude climbing training.

Other ideas passed on

improvements in the rope fixing process, primarily with respect to getting the ropes in earlier and some type of improved weather forecasting system
Theft of oxygen cylinders during the expeditions
Traffic monitoring at base camp and higher camps.

So, does this mean the quality of expeditions will improve dramatically? Maybe yes and No. The challenge has always remained with Everest expeditions and the traffic or long queue is not a new news. There has been rise in number of climbers since 1990 and only looks to grow.

The ideas proposed seems to just address the issues vaguely and does not take into account of finding solutions whole heartedly. Certainly expedition companies has to be more responsible when taking inexperienced clients to these extreme altitudes and government implementing tougher rules & regulations can be one way. Regulators needs to listen to experienced veteran Nepalese and non-Nepalese climbing leaders, operators, mountaineering community and boards on how to increase the quality and safety of Everest expeditions. It is no easy fix and the challenge will always remain but the obvious issues (like inexperience climbers or teams ) should be tackled with strict rules and implementation.

Everest is an optimum challenge we as an individual can choose to face. We support and encourage you on your aspiration to endeavour on taking the journey of the highest challenge that man kind can face. But all we ask is taking a route that protects you and your team, enriches you with the experience of alpinism and eventually fulfilling your aspirations.

* Cheap expedition - Discounted Expedition were ran on as low as $20,000 p/p which dramatically reduces
and impacts the quality of the expeditions both for the individuals and the operating team.

Namas Adventure 12/5/18 Namas Adventure 12/5/18

Equipment checklist for Mountain / Peak climbing from 4000 - 7000M

EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST FOR MOUNTAIN / PEAK CLIMBING FROM 4000 - 7000M

Photo by David Ruiz Luna ( Island Peak, Nepal )

Good solid gears are an integral part of a successful peak or mountain climbing. We have listed the absolute necessities of mountain climbing gears to help you on your journey to the summit. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by our Everest and other 6000+ expedition leaders. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear. The listed gears below are for mountain and Himalayan peak from 4000 to 7000M. Expeditions which we operate at Namas adventure ( Mera Peak, Island peak, Mount Blanc, Aconcagua ), are the recommended essential gear for extreme conditions.

Climbing Gears

Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel or similar brands)
Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
Carabineers: 3 lockings and 6 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Trekking Poles

Black Diamond Vapour or similar

Ice axe 60 - 70 cm

12 Popint crampons, Petzel or similar brands

BD ATC

BD ATC Guide

DMM Figure 8

Climbing adjustable Harness

Locking Carabineers

Carabineers regular

Trekking pole ( 1or2 )

Ascenders

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva GSM2 or equivalent
Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection (North face, Salomon, La Sportiva, or similar mountain brands )
Gaiters
Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Flip flops / Slippers

La Sportiva Gsm2

Goretex full ankle trekking boots

6 pairs Mountaineering Extra heavy socks

4 pairs linear socks

Body Layers

2 merino base layers: top/bottom set
1 mid-layer top: breathable Underwear
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore-tex and breathable
Hooded Hard Shell: Gore-tex and breathable
Hard Shell Pants: Gore-tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North face Himalayan parka or equivalent with 600-800 down fills
Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Hiking Shorts

2 Merino base layer body

2 Merino Base layer bottom

Softshell Jacket Northface

Breatheable Mid layer jacket NF Ventrix

3 Nylon full tees

4 Nylon half tees

Hardshell or triclimax jackets

Himalayan Praka (700/800) downfills

Hardshell trousers

Insulated trousers

Headgear and Handwear

Wool hat (ski hat)
Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
Under helmet Balaclava
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
Softshell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Ski Hats

Lightweight synthetic liner gloves

Shell glove with insulated liner

Expedition Mitts

Burf

Under helmet Balaclava

Ski Goggles for summit

Glacier glasses

Equipment & Personal Gears

Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
25L - 35LTrekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 to - 40°F. Goose down or synthetic
Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed-cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon
Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
Multisport watch with Altimeter & GPS navigation
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
Lip balm with sunblock
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
Thermos: 1 liter (buy good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and a small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers
Penknife or multi-tool (optional)
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
Travel Clothes
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smartphone, etc
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*

L/XL Duffle bags

Head torch BD Revolt

Personal Solar charging system

Closed cell foam pad

sleeping pad

3 Large Compression stuff sacks

Sleeping Bag -20 to -40 C

Trekking bag 25-30L

Expedition bag 65L

Multisport watch with Altimeter & GPS navigation

4 Fold dry bags

Hand or toe warmers

Apart from your personal clothes and shoes most of the mountain gears, sleeping bags, and mats can be rented when you are planning an expedition in Nepal, France, or Argentina.

Companies recommended

Climbing Gears - Black diamond, Petzl, Grivel
Mountaineering boots - La Sportiva, Kailas, Mammut, Scarpa
Trekking Boots - La Sportiva, Northface, Patagonia, Mammut
Body Layers - Northface, Mountain hardware, Mammut, Patagonia, Arctyrex, Marmot, Rab
Headgear and hand wear - Northface, Mountain hardware, Patagonia, Mammut
Glasses - Julbo
Other gear companies: Exped, Garmin, Goal zero, Bio lite, MSR Gears

Download Mountain Climbing equipment checklist

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure 7/18/18 Namas Adventure 7/18/18

10 Health, Mental and Physical benefits of outdoor adventure travel

10 HEALTH, MENTAL AND PHYSICAL BENEFITS OF OUTDOOR ADVENTURE TRAVEL

Seeing the beauty of Nepal is enough to keep you alive, your soul resuscitates and vibrates to the theme of the beauty of Nepal, think about trekking the Himalayan terrains to Paragliding in Pokhara, Yoga rafting in the Sunkoshi river, or how about enduro motocross or mountain biking in Upper Mustang. This is one of the best things that can ever happen to anyone. Life is beautiful when we know how to enjoy it. Recent studies have shown that a merry heart does more good than medicine. In the puzzle of this age, young people are finding it difficult to enjoy the true beauty of living, they are so engrossed in making a lot of money which is not bad in itself but living truly is examining the true beauty of your world.

What is outdoor adventure travel?

This is making the best moment of time by exploring new places, checking for what is not missing, and having a wonderful time digging out the true beauty of nature. For reference, we want to use Nepal as an outdoor adventure destination. I might sound bias but if you have done outdoor adventure travel somewhere else except Nepal or Peru, am sorry to say you are missing out on some of the world's greatest adventures. If you haven't visited Nepal and maybe while growing up you never had enough resources to visit astonishing places like Nepal, now that you're a young adult you should visit these amazing places. If you are around age 45 - 54, you would still have enough strength to explore.

Remember in as much as adventure travel is quite fun, it would require you to leave your comfort zone and might exercise you a little bit, but if you're fun-loving, you'd be happy you went for one. Before I go into the benefits of outdoor adventure travel, let me quickly take you by hand into the beauty of Nepal, if you stay outside Nepal and you're ever looking for a place to have your outdoor adventure travel, after reading this, I bet you'd be convinced to try Nepal.

1) Trekking in Nepal

Have you ever thought of walking on the toughest terrain before, the true beauty of Nature is seen when you walk and climb the terrains and you flex muscles like never before, feel the mild intensity of the weather and the cool breeze flowing? There is no beauty as such anywhere in the world. What better exercise can keep the brain and muscles alive, to keep them functioning in their best form.

2) Go for Paramotoring

Have you ever thought of flying like a bird, it takes away your fears and allows you to feel what it is to conquer the sky, it broadens your horizon and gives you one of the most beautiful sights of Pokhara and nearby hills.

3) Mountain Biking in Nepal

Mountain biking in Nepal will provide the golden opportunity to the visitors to enjoy the great natural view of the high hills along with the local settlements of the different places of Nepal. The mountain biking in Nepal will take the visitors to the local settlements of the Nepalese people where you learn their local culture and tradition and daily life. The cultural heritage and the traditional lifestyle of the Nepalese and Tibetan people can be observed through the microscopic view. The famous and usual mountain biking routes are Dhulikhel, Nagarkot, Chisapani or for longer rides, you can join our tours into Annapurna Circuit, Upper Mustang, and other different places of Nepal.

4) White Water Rafting in Trishuli river

There are places you go that boost your self-confidence, by default they allow you to face bold life challenges especially if you're between age 30-40 one of those places is the Trishuli river. The strength of the gushing white water, the terrific flow is enough to make you forget your fears and pains, life is truly beautiful when we know how to enjoy it.

5) Enduro Motocross in Nepal

Enduro motocross is fairly a new form of adventure service in Nepal. Although Nepal has more numbers of bikes than cars, local operators are tapping into new ways of adventure activities and motocross tours being one. Why not adventure travel and feel the thrill of off-road riding in Nepal with us.

6) Kayaking in Seti River

You would be wrong if you think kayaking is the same as canoeing, here the sitting position of the paddler is different, and also the number of blades on the paddle. Kayaking is interesting and makes the mind active and alert. Doing it in Nepal is uniquely different when as you are kayaking in one of the biggest tidal rivers of Nepal.

7) Go for Mountain Expeditions in Nepal

Are you ready for some real physical exercise, get your bag packs and ropes ready for some alpine climbing and let's get lost together climbing the great Himalayas and seeing Nature that will leave us mesmerized? And a lot more.

By now you should want to visit Nepal and have some outdoor travel adventure. You should know for certain these activities come with A lot of benefits which I will discuss now.

1) Get dirty!

In the 21st, too much emphasis has been placed on hygiene, and recent research shows that this might be leading to allergies and some other bowel diseases. Imagine going Rock Climbing on Nagarjuna and getting dirty. It simply means you'd be getting healthier in the real sense of it. Getting dirty improves your physical health.

2) Pack descriptions

Doctors are now handing over park descriptions to patients to help them fight some health problems, at times some doctors in Nepal would advise patients suffering from heart disease to obesity, and all other similar illnesses to have some kayaking and other outdoor travel adventure.

3) Stress reliever

John T.Andrew says a walk in Nature lowers pulse rate and stress levels more than walking in the city. The beauty and silence of nature are enough medicine for stress. In our world where the noise of automobiles and industries machines is on the hike, taking a walk around helps to release the tension on the muscle and make one stressless.

4) Prevention of Virus diseases

Studies are proving again and again that not only does nature give you the social and mental benefits of making you a nicer and happier person, partaking of it is physically good for you, too. A series of recent study results from Japan shows that taking a walk through the woods might protect you from the common cold and other viruses. It’s postulated that being exposed to phytoncides, aromatic oils with infection-fighting properties that certain trees emit, bestows immunity. In yet another Japanese study, it was found that participants had lower pulse rates and lower levels of the stress hormone cortisol after a short nature walk as opposed to taking a brief jaunt on a city street.

5) What If I told you outdoor travel adventure might give you a bigger brain.

Yes, it is difficult to believe but this is the magic of travel adventure, on a normal day as one grows older especially those around the age of 50, the ability to retain gets smaller due to the fact that the hippocampus gets smaller and thus leading to memory loss. But now, research was done on young adults within the age of 45-54 years, who walked 45 minutes daily for a year and it was discovered that their hippocampi grew on an average of 3%. Walking and hiking keep you mentally alert.

6) Outdoor travel adventure helps you to reflect better.

You can easily recall what you saw and how they look like this even helps your brain to stay active, this attribute is very important when you can reflect on your daily activities, it gives you an edge over others as you can know where to adapt quickly and adjust your life.

7) It dissolves your fear.

Imagine having a mountain climbing where you're are moving up the hill, naturally, your winning instincts comes alive and you would always want to try new things out, people who are happy going and always smiling tends to have a long happy life because they reached out for their dreams and aspirations.

8) Adventure travel feeds your dreams and builds your confidence.

The editor of National Geographic Traveler Magazine once suggested that the “Cycle of Travel” went like this: 1) dream, 2) plan, 3) go, 4) share. But no matter how many steps it takes to get there, the one thing that’s certain about traveling to spectacular nature spots is that it soon becomes addictive. Experiencing one wilderness just doesn’t seem to be enough; your soul quickly calls for more. And each time you go, you find yourself changing. Adventures build your confidence; and with each successive one, you challenge yourself just a little bit more. I would add a fifth step to the Travel Cycle: dream bigger.

9) Physical fitness.

Engaging in outdoor travel adventure like mountain climbing also help stay fit, your muscles rejuvenate and come alive, it is one of the most effective forms of exercise you can ever dream of. People who go for outdoor adventure activities are always physically fit.

10) Long life

Researchers at the University of Massachusetts recently found that going on vacation and doing vigorous outdoor activities while there may help extend your life. They found that vacations actually reduced the risk of untimely death and heart disease in a group of at-risk middle-aged men. What a convenient thing to tell your boss!

Waterfall rappelling, river rafting, world-class mountaineering, enduro motocross and more are waiting for you in Nepal. Now that you know the benefits Of Outdoor adventure travel, you might want to know about some more interesting places to go in Nepal.

Upper Mustang Hike trekking in Nepal.

Trekking/walking is beautiful and if you do it regularly, chances are you have a sharper memory even at your old age. The Upper Mustang trek brings you into the hidden world of the old Buddhist kingdom of Mustang, also called Lo. Lo used to be part of the Tibetan empire and is therefore closely tied to Tibet in culture, language and geography. The region’s isolation from the outside world has contributed to a highly preserved Tibetan culture and unspoiled nature. Mustang lies in the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri massif creating a ruggedly arid land surrounded by rocks in all kinds of colors and impressive formations. This barren landscape is dotted with settlements of whitewashed houses, barley fields, and Chortens festooned with prayer flags which add a splash of color to the landscape. If you are not a native of Nepal, you would instantly wish you were born there. ( Click here for tour info)

Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal

Peak climbing in Nepal is one of the most fun and thrilling adventure activities to try in this paradise of mountains and valleys. In such adventure activities, the participants will be properly tied with the rope for their safety and the destination to the summit will be marked, every participant has to try their best to reach the summit so as to win the competition. ( Click here for Mera peak climbing infos )

Zip Flying in Nepal

If you ever come to Nepal and you didn't do zip flying your outdoor adventure travel is never complete, Nepal has dangle 600 meters in thin air while roaring forward at 140 km per hour 1.8 km long! The world's tallest and longest zipline! The zipline at Nepal now offers the rush of extreme zip lining, the first of its kind in the whole of Asia. Zip flying in Nepal is not just another zipline; it is the world’s longest, steepest and fastest zip-line to give you the ultimate adventure experience. The launchpad is situated at the peak of Sarangkot, Pokhara, offering the most spectacular views of the Annapurna mountain range and the Pokhara Valley. Zip flying has been in operation since June 2, 2012. Safety is the leading criteria, and the system by Zip-flyer TM LLC, USA is designed with the most advanced technologies and has delivered a state-of-the-art zipline. So get ready to experience the ultimate adrenaline rush!

What are you waiting for again, this activity will mentally keep you alive and keep your daring spirit soaring. Experience specialized guided adventure tour in Nepal with Namas Adventure.

Email us at namas@namasadventure.com for any tour info or if you would like us to arrange a bespoke/tailor-made adventure travel itinerary (Click here) to Nepal or Peru we are here to assist and help you achieve your dream adventure.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Written by - Shirle