Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions - Namas Adventure
Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions
The dream is to go higher. We are always in search of greater challenges or pushing ourselves to see what’s possible. Seeking challenges and pushing beyond has always been one of the best traits of humankind. Adventures like climbing the grand beautiful Himalayan peak are an amazing feat to undertake and require every bit of your will and determination. The outcome we get from these amazing experiences is priceless and only you can define how much do you want to push yourself.
When taking on higher and greater expeditions, we must be honest and humble enough mostly with ourselves to understand our ability and build on gaining the right experiences. Extreme high altitude expedition like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Himlung, Manaslu or the mighty Everest requires you to commit on longer duration and cold days in high altitude. (Comes with plenty of great moments each day). You as an adventurer need to understand the nature of gruesome, thin aired conditions. High altitude expeditions range from 30 to 60 days with at least 60% of your total itinerary climbing in low pressured air gasping conditions in remote high altitude locations. You need to be able to deal with it and enjoy the good suffering (that is that climbers associate it with) of your entire journey. The setbacks are inescapable, so one must learn to be patient and improvisation due to unforeseen weather forces is inevitable. How to deal with the fear and push on even when you feel like it never ends and so on.
Also, the good stuff. The base camp cheers to an appreciation of water and warm food. Being a community in the mountains, helping and motivating each other. The joy of completing each milestone and finally the summit moment. Being overpowered by the force and beauty of nature. Feeling almost non-existent yet existent with what you have accomplished. You need to build on everything, the good and the bad experiences that come with the nature of climbing high-altitude mountains if you successfully want to make it to the summit and enjoy your climb. It is within the reach of a mere mortal but building the right experience is super important.
We highly suggest undertaking Khumbu three-peak expedition or even two 6000M+ peaks like Lobuche East and Island peak or mixing any of the other 6000M+ peaks (Mera Peak). Being in the mountains for 20+ days will help you get the feel and patience needed when climbing in the Himalayas. This will help you understand how climbing in high altitude technical and non-technical section feels like. You certainly will get the feel of mountaineering but at 6000M+ level. You will encounter similar moments when taking upon further and higher expeditions, there is no escaping from this. So being mentally prepared and having that experience is key. After completing these expeditions you will be prepared to push further in future higher and more challenging expeditions.
Want to plan your Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Or even 2X6000M peak climb, Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M climbs in Nepal? We organize these peak climbing trips every year. Our team is here to assist you throughout your climb and help you successfully summit the peaks in the Himalayas. Fun times are guaranteed and you will not be disappointed. Your safety is super important to us. All our guides are IFMGA or Nepal Mountaineering association trained and certified. Rich with technical skills, Sherpa raw power, and tons of smile and humor. Having a great time when climbing is a must. Join us when you plan one or email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and we will get back to you asap.
Climb on. Push yourself. Seek adventure.
Go.
Live Your Story.
Mera Peak Ski Expedition. New possibilities in the Himalayas - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak Ski Expedition. New possibilities in the Himalayas
Mera Peak has been attracting high-altitude ski lovers and we can understand why. Although ski adventure has yet to be a fully commercial adventure activity in Nepal, foreigners seeking high altitude ski thrill adventures have been navigating the slopes of the Himalayas. Nepal has some of the highest mountains in the world and all the ski enthusiasts must be wondering why does Nepal not already have ski facilities in place? Poor infrastructure and lack of knowledge in ski sport and business models have been a foreign thing for Nepal.
But with changing time and the need for more adventure options rather than just climbing, ski sport has been gaining attention and particularly on the slopes of Mera peak. We would say it’s pretty high, wild and off-piste but that is what makes it attractive when planning a ski expedition in Nepal. Spring sees a lot of fresh snow which may make it an ideal condition to but the ones who have skied in the past, rather prefers planning skiing during autumn. With a good amount of both stable and fresh snow, skiing in autumn is much more enjoyable. We understand why Mera Peak attracts skiers as it has fewer objective hazards in normal climbing routes (i.e. crevasse, rock falls, avalanches) and the mountain has a wide section to climb or ski down making it much safer to ski compared to a narrow couloir. Our guide members who are not ski trained would always say that skiing down Mera would be so much fun and less tiring 😅. But yes ski Expedition in Mera is a new possibility adding new adventure activity in the Nepalese mountaineering scene. Nepal now has IFMGA certified ski-trained guides who can assist you in making the climb and shred down the slopes of Mera peak together. This will be one hell of an adventure for anyone planning their expedition. To top that up, you will be skiing down a peak higher than the whole of North America or Europe, how about that for a portfolio of mountains you have skied down. Skiers will have to be proficient and at least have 50+ hours of ski sessions with few high altitudes off-piste ski experiences.
Permits are a must ($1000 for 1 - 10 skiers) and an additional $100 per additional member. A separate Mera Peak climbing permit is also needed. Want to plan your next high-altitude ski expedition in Nepal? Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to plan your adventure and our team will be more than happy to assist you and help achieve the Mera Peak 6476M summit and safely ski down Mera Peak.
Go dare great things. Live your story.
Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing - Namas Adventure
Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing
Investing in the right boots is a must for any high altitude mountaineering activities. We highly suggest all climbers to not cut corners while purchasing these essential life-saving equipment. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice/rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We recommend you go to your nearest store to try it on and give it a feel on how you feel when trying on these boots. In the end, you should feel comfortable with those boots. We have listed three of our favorite boots which are suitable for Mera Peak climbing.
La Sportiva G2SM
La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double-layered system can withstand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots have a sturdy and quality feel and have BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged, unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)
Scarpa Phantom 6000
Lightweight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is built for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)
GTX Mountaineering Boots 5000m
With classic style Kailas GTX performs well in the rugged conditions. Lightweight, insulated (able to withstand up to -30C, all crampons compatible, these boots are suitable for 5000M+ to 65000M mountaineering activities.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Namas Adventure team.
Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak Expedition
Choosing the right footwear is critical to climb and summit higher peaks. Baruntse Peak standing tall at 7000M + peak demands climbers to wear appropriate mountaineering boots, which must fill in numerous roles. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice / rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We have listed boots from several brands which is suitable for your Baruntse Peak expedition.
La Sportiva G2SM
La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double layered system can with stand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots has a sturdy and quality feel and has BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)
La Sportiva Baruntse
The name itself suggest this boot particularly for Baruntse and any other 6000M-7000M peak expeditions. A sturdy built mountaineering boots specifically designed for high altitude mountaineering expedition. It is a double layered boot highly insulated boot with with tradition lacing style system. (Boot review)
Scarpa Pthanom 6000
Light weight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is build for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)
8000M Boots
For any climbers looking ahead for bigger expedition in near future, investing right away in a 8000M expedition can be a great idea, saving any extra expenses. Climbers normally use 8000M peak boots even during 6000M + expeditions. (Kailas Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons cube, Scarpa Phantom 8000)
Investing in a right gear is a must and a necessity when taking upon such great expeditions. We always advise our climbers to try them on when buying one and see which you feel most comfortable with, at the end it is your climb. If you want to take upon 7000M + peaks like Baruntse with Mera Peak expedition or Himlung Himal expedition , Namas team is here to be at your service and help you summit these amazing peaks while having a great time.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Namas Adventure team.
Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition strategy - Namas Adventure
Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition Strategy
Himlung Himal (7126M) is one of the most accessible peaks in the Himalayas (Nepal). Located just between North of Manaslu 8163M and the Annapurna Himalayan range, Himlung is a peak for any mountaineering enthusiast looking to climb a 7000M peak that is remotely situated and provides all the aspects of challenging mountaineering adventure. As we prepare to plan for this expedition from 2021 onwards, we want to share our climbing strategy which was pioneered by Paulo Grobel along with Nepalese guides, paving expedition strategy routes (safer/enjoyable) for future climbers. If you are looking for an amazing time in the Himalayas, do join our expedition. Another amazing 7000M peak to consider is Baruntse Peak expedition.
Base Camp to Camp 1 (Co-ordinates: N 28° 45 384 E 84° 22 147)
The new base camp also called ‘French base camp’ is comfortable, with water nearby and sheltered from avalanches. The logistical challenge remains to pitch the camp as it seems a bit complex when crossing through the Pangir Glacier on big inconvenient boulders and the way up the moraine on the right bank is exposed to rockfall.
Our strategy will be to conduct 2 rotations between BC- Camp 1 and Camp 2 (weather conditions permitting) and then summit push from camp 2. Note - Camp 3 is an alternative solution but due to its risky nature, the lead guide will only strategize camp 3, if needed after assessing the situations in the mountain while on expedition.
Camp 1 6000M to Camp 2, 6200M (2X rotations target)
Access to Base Camp from Camp 1, is quite simple and very quick (2 to 3 hours) on a trekking terrain, with moraines and small valleys. The snow conditions may alter the progression, of course, but there is no slope subject to avalanches on the way up.
From Camp 1 heading on to camp 2, then traverse across a perched scree slope that leads to the side of the glacier. Following the side of the glacier (crevasses and disturbed terrain, rocks, and snow) until climbers can stand up on the flatter glacier, with big steps; a few twists and turns are needed. Depending on the season and the snow conditions, this part represents the trickiest part of the ascent. We continue up on the glacier, avoiding a few crevasses. We find suitable terrains to set up our camp on the ‘Glacier Camp’. It is pleasant and vast enough to welcome several groups. It seems subject to little, if any, risk of avalanche (to be verified depending on conditions). We climb with ropes attached together on the glacier, which shows little danger of falling into crevasses.
Camp 2, 6200M - Camp 3 (Optional)
Camp 3 is only a short distance (1 hour) away from camp 2. Heading to Camp 3 from Camp 2 is a comfortable reach, we climb by continuing up on the icy escarpment up to the last place before the ridge (a few ups and downs). Camp 3 remains an option due to its risky nature of being on the ridge. Guide members will only decide after inspecting/discussing amongst themselves whether camp 3 is safe and actually required. (to be double-checked under exceptional snow conditions).
Camp 2, 6200M - Summit 7126M - Camp 2 or 1
The climb is long and cannot be reduced with an additional high camp. The first part of the ascent consists of reaching the pass across snowy slopes, a little bit steep (30°) and exposed. Fixed ropes are often installed by the lead guide and once we are past that, then the slopes become less steep, with a few flat bits.
After the crevasse opening, which is generally not a problem, the slope on the side of the ridge becomes steeper. This is the steepest part of the whole climb: about 400m at 30/35°. In hard/frozen snow conditions, there is a high risk of falling, so we install fixed ropes on this part as well. The route then reaches a less steep ridge, up to a flatter section before the small final slope.
After the summit, we descend down to camp 2 or camp 1. Then the next day we head to base camp, pack all our gears and celebrate our summit success, reflect and have a more joyous night, and prepare for the next day’s journey towards Kathmandu and thus ending our trip.
If you do have any more questions or want to join our yearly spring or fall Himlung Himal expeditions then please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as we can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things. Live your story.
More route reference: Paulo Grobel
5 Things to know about Mera Peak climb - Namas Adventure
5 things to know about Mera Peak climbing
When is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak?
March-May ( Spring ) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak.
Is Mera Peak suitable for beginner climbers and what kind of fitness do I need?
Yes, Mera Peak is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. To reach summit 6476M you do not need any special climbing skills with ropes, gears, and use of an ice axe. Mera Peak is a very popular destination for clients with little or no mountaineering experience. The mountain has fewer to non-technical challenges, there are 3-4 small opening crevasses during the climb but apart from that, the climb is straightforward. All climbers are recommended to partake in preparative fitness and altitude training before attempting an ascent. You should be able to carry 5-8 kgs of your bag pack, walk up and downhill every day for 15/16 days and be able to push yourself during the summit climb.
Physically for beginners, Mera Peak can be demanding. We highly suggest you train yourself well over 6 - 4 months before your trip. You will need good endurance and body strength. Aerobic exercises mixing with overall body strength-building routines should help you prepare physically for your trip.
Can I see Mt. Everest from Mera Peak?
From the summit, five 8,000m peaks are visible: Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga, as well as many other Himalayan peaks. The standard route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult technical routes.
How hard is it to climb to the summit of Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is classed as 1B alpine grade. When it comes to an expedition the more fitter and stronger you are, the better your chances of successfully climbing to the summit and most of all enjoying the expedition. Summiting Mera Peak mostly depends on the weather condition and your fitness level. The climb normally starts around 3/4 am in the morning and it is about 3-4 hours climb to the summit. For any climbers it is a technically straightforward ascent, the main hurdle being proper acclimatization to the high altitude.
Which Mountain can I aim for after Mera Peak that’s above 6500M?
If you have got time and you are feeling extra adventurous then you can either Mix Mera Peak with Island Peak, which takes you through a beautiful and challenging Amphu Lapsta pass. On the way, you will also come across Baruntse 7129M and Makalu 8481M. Or you can simply take on our challenge of three 6000M+ Peak expeditions. (Mera, Island and Lobuche East) Peaks (Click for expedition Link)
Our main suggestion is to take it one step at a time. The lure of Everest is there but taking small steps, gaining the right experience, and understanding your physiology is very crucial for climbing higher mountains. Amadablam 6810M, Baruntse Peak 7129M, Manaslu 8163M, Tilicho Peak 7134M are some of the 7000M+ - 8000M+ Peak expedition we operate and organize at Namas adventure.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Mera Peak or Island Peak - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak or Island Peak
Mera Peak or Island Peak? Which 6000M peak to plan when you first want to start climbing a peak in Nepal. Which is the peak best suited for my abilities or which peak should I climb? To make your decision easier for you, we have laid out the details of each peak, which will help you decide with your 6000M peak climbing. The other option will be to combine both magnificent Mera and Island Peak climb in your itinerary.
Mera Peak 6476 M
Mera Peak 6476M, highest 6000M trekking Peak in Nepal
Non-technical climb up to 6476M. No use of ropes, ice-axe, ascender, or ladders
Beginners/novice suitable peak
Base camp and high camp strategy
Located in the Makalu Barun region of Nepal
Remote and less popular compared to Island Peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
360 Panoramic view of Nepal Himalayan range. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, and many other peaks are visible from Summit and descend to high camp.
Mera Peak is considered the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The trails break off from Lukla going in a different direction to the Makalu Barun region, which completely avoids the normal Everest trek trail usually packed by Everest base camp trekkers and climbers. So, you can expect less traffic from trekkers on Mera Peak trails. With the mountain itself is a non-technical climb, Mera peak can be a perfect mountain climbing experience for those climbers not wanting to use ropes or ascender/descender gears to climb to the summit. Simply rely on the guidance of your guide and your strength to climb the peak. Physically it can be demanding, as on your summit day you will have to ascend for 4-6 hours depending on your speed of climbing uphill. The view from the summit is awe-inspiring, as you will be able to witness a 360-degree view of the great Himalayas range. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Kanchanjhunga, and other peaks are clearly visible right in front of you during clear weather.
Island Peak 6189M
The most famous 6000M climbing peak in Nepal
Technical climb with summit approach 90 degrees ascend. Use of rope lines, ascender, figure 8 to descend, and ladders to cross the crevasse gaps.
Beginners/novice technical climbing
Base camp and high camp climbing strategy
Located in Everest trail route, in Imja valley
Remote and most popular climbing and summited 6000M peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
Narrow summit ridge and is also a perfect peak to learn technical climbing approach
Island peak shares the same trail as the Everest base camp route up to Dingboche. Island peak is the most popular and summited 6000M in the Khumbu region. Island peak is suitable for first-time beginner climbers and is a perfect mountain for climbers who wants to experience and learn technical climbing in the mountains. You will be using the steel ladders (like they use in Everest) to cross the crevasse openings and use ascenders on fixed ropes to climb onto the final steep section, a 90-degree vertical wall. When climbing you will be using ascender on the fixed ropes to climb all the way to the summit. Training will be given prior to your climbing by our Sherpa guiding team on all our climbing expeditions. Like any expedition, this peak is physically demanding and on your summit day from high camp, you will be climbing for 6 - 8 hours, depending on your speed of climbing.
Or, simply you can make it extra challenging by combing both Mera Peak and Island Peak itinerary. The beauty of this itinerary is crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass which is challenging and awe-inspiring.
Arrival
Day 1 Kathmandu ( Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )
Day 2 Lukla / Monjo
Day 3 Monjo / Namche Bazaar
Day 4 Acclimatisation day
Day 5 Namche Bazaar / Tengboche
Day 6 Tengboche / Dingboche
Day 7 Acclimatisation
Day 8 Dingboche / Chukung
Day 9 Chukung / Island Peak base camp
Day 10 IPBC / Island peak high camp
Day 11 Ascend to Island peak summit / Chukung
Day 12 Chukung / Lobuche East Base Camp
Day 13 Lobuche High camp 5600M (5 to 6 hours)
Day 14 Summit day 6118M / High camp or Lobuche village
(1 Day Contingency Summit day, in case of bad weather to summit Lobuche east )
Day 15 Gorakshep / Everest Base Camp
Day 16 Dzongla
Day 17 Gokyo Via Cho-la-pass
Day 18 Gokyo ri trek
Day 19 Macahharmo
Day 20 Macahharmo to Doles
Day 21 Dole to Namche Bazaar
Day 22 To Lukla
Day 23 Kathmandu
Day 24 Departure
Or Another option would be Island Peak and Lobuche East peak.
Three Peak challenge (Mera, Island, and Lobuche East Peak)
We have set departures for all three peaks every year. To book your Spring or Autumn climb please email our team or head to the relevant page on our website for detailed pieces of information.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Meet these Badass Nepalese Adventurers
Nims dai definitely caught the world’s attention with his, once in a lifetime, attempt of climbing 14 Mountains which stands tall at 8000M+ in 7 months, ( but he did it in 6 months and 6 days ). Yes, not a big deal for Nims dai, he could just chill for the remaining 24 days or could have just taken a nap in the high altitude in his shorts (Jokes). To my imagination, only Nims dai can do that :D. We CONGRATULATE him on this bold historical success.
I did have the honour to meet him during his early days when he was just starting to pitch around the community and raise funds, which at that time seemed impossible. But with his sheer determination and focus he has pulled it all off, and now it’s in the history as one of the greatest mountaineering events, and not to mention the world records.
If Nepalese deserves an Olympic standard honour, then Mountaineering sport is the category they dominate. Nims dai has rightly so, put the name of great Nepalese adventurers right back on the map. Nepalese athletes, especially in mountain climbing, don’t get their fair share of recognition and praise. Getting a sponsorship as an athlete is a distant dream to them, but rightly so some female athletes are now recruited by The North face. Kudos to TNF. However, in this article, I wanted to make sure we can shed some light to these outstanding individuals and present some of the great Nepalese athletes to all our readers. Hold your breath tight, as some of these achievements, which you may have never heard may seem out of this planet’s achievements but these are the records of the brave Nepalese.
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa - Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary were the first 2 individuals to summit Everest, the highest point on Earth, inspiring the generation of mountaineers to come and the rest is history.
Nims Purja MBE: AKA Nims Dai - What can I say about Nims dai? He has shifted the human perception of what’s possible. What’s remarkable is he started Mountain climbing in his early 30’s and then at 35, he embarked on the world’s great adventure and inspired many. I believe Nims dai is bringing out a movie around Janaury 2020, so that is something to watch out for.
Kami Rita Sherpa - Still going strong and guiding clients to Everest. He holds the world’s most Everest Summit at 24X and he may yet continue breaking his own world records. 24 times to Everest is a no joke and he is the only one standing on this planet with that record.
Apa Sherpa - Apa Sherpa stands at 21X Everest summit. Apa thought 21 was a lucky number and decided to hang up his boots for mountaineering. He has his Apa Sherpa foundation funding schools in Khumbu region.
Babu Gauchan (First person to Paraglide from Everest) - Babu is another Nepalese that came out of no where. Ever smiling and honest, Babu never climbed any mountains prior to this bold feat. He just decided he wants to Paraglide from Everest and head to the Ganges in one single adventure. Yes, that’s why he is a bad ass and he did all this without any sponsorship, just a deal with a fellow mountaineer Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa, where Lakpa takes him to summit of Everest and Babu glides him down from Everest and together they kayak to the Indian ocean. I mean who does that, this is madness and bravery at adventure every level only Nepalese dares. Babu did it all for the sake of adventurers. Babu and Lakpa were awarded People’s choice adventurers of the year (2012).
Let’s not forget the Female Adventurers
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa: Late Pasang Lhamu Sherpa was the first-ever Nepalese woman to summit Mt. Everest and she is a national icon for all the Nepalese. She paved the way and inspired many female adventurers globally and nationally.
Lhakpa Sherpa - What’s so astonishing story about Lhakpa's story is being the female athlete with most summit Everest ( 9 times ) She works as a dishwasher in Connecticut. No sponsors, trainers or any brand deals of any sort. I mean common has the adventure community totally missed out on her. This is why I say Nepalese are very underrepresented and it seems like Female athletes are left behind even further. The Northface, Mountain Hardwear, Arc'tyrex or any adventure brands here is an opportunity.
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita - Pasang is one of the first Nepalese women to Summit K2, Everest and Amadablam. She is an inspiring figure and a humble mum. I met her on Everest trek trails and she was carrying her son all the way to Everest base camp and he was totally loving it. Guess we know already who the next generation of Nepalese mountaineer is!?
Dawa Yangzum Sherpa - Dawa is one of the first Nepalese athlete to represent from The North face. Kudos to North face, again. And she is one of the three Nepalese ladies team, to Summit K2. Dawa has further gained her recognition by being the first Nepalese female to summit Makalu and Cheki Go. One inspiring female adventurer to watch out. She now guides clients in mountains as well as take on several mountaineering projects.
Mira Rai - What makes Mira Rai’s story so powerful is the background she came from. At age 14 she joined Maoist insurgency and later when the insurgency ended only after coming out from that did her career into Ultra running take off. Now an inspiring figure in Nepal, Mira inspires the world of runners globally. She is actively participating in Ultrarunning events around the world.
What’s more is 46 more Nepalese have summited Mount Everest from 5 - 20 times. One can argue that Nepalese has to work hence they have to summit but if we look solely from the feat of climbing Everest then there is no argument that Nepalese beat this record by miles. (Wikipedia list of Everest Climbers)
There are more young Nepalese adventurers coming along the rank with Mingma David Sherpa being the youngest person in the world to summit all 14X8000 M peaks. He was a part of Nim’s Dai Bremont Project possible climbing team.
Nepalese will continue to work in the mountains and keep building on the records, with or without sponsorships from big brands. Their work is in the mountains but if big brands could back them up with sponsorship, more young Nepalese will be inspired to follow their passion into the mountains who might better represent Nepal and explore other unclimbed peaks, raise the standard of Nepalese guiding team which is a great news for all the climbers who seek better local guides coming out of Nepal.
Article by - Bisesh
Namas Adventure
New Mt. Everest expedition rules 2019
We all know the news of Everest casualties during this year’s (2019) expedition. 11 climbers deaths, 9 from Nepalese side and 2 from Tibetan side. Nepal issued a record number of 381 permits issue this year. There has been conflicting ideas on why climbers died. Traffic jam near the Hillary ridge ( above 8000 M ) was pointed out by many but just that one problem does not address the key issue of the expedition. A lot has to do with inexperienced climbers, exhaustion, altitude sickness, incompetent/inexperienced guiding team and cheap expedition. This has been pointed by many experienced sherpa climbing leaders ( Kami Rita Sherpa, 24 Summits) as well as non-Nepalese veteran climbers.
Rules from Tibetan side of expedition are strict compared to the Nepalese side. Climbers requires a proof of having summited one 8000M peak before they can climb Everest from the tibet side, where as in Nepal rules were climbers should have climbed at least one 7000M peaks.
Nepal’s ministry of tourism has proposed new rules and regulation to tackle issues in response to this years incidents. Also, this has to be passed through parliament first for the rules to come into effect for 2020 spring expeditions. New rules are focusing on operators, climbers and government officials at Everest base camp and the route. The government is also considering requiring mandatory health checkups at Everest Base Camp.
Climbers must prove ( certificate mostly ) that they have at least climbed one 6500 M Nepalese peaks before.
Climbers must also submit a certificate of good health and physical fitness and be accompanied by a trained Nepalese guide.
Expedition company must prove that they have 3 years of experience organising high altitude expedition before leading clients to Everest.
Minimum charges of Everest expedition $35000 per bookings ( $11000 permits included) to be charged. * Cheap Everest expedition were blamed by most of the Sherpa leaders for attracting in-experienced climbers.
Minimum charges of $20,000 for any expedition above 8000M+
Climbers attempting 8000M+ peaks to undergo basic and high altitude climbing training.
Other ideas passed on
improvements in the rope fixing process, primarily with respect to getting the ropes in earlier and some type of improved weather forecasting system
Theft of oxygen cylinders during the expeditions
Traffic monitoring at base camp and higher camps.
So, does this mean the quality of expeditions will improve dramatically? Maybe yes and No. The challenge has always remained with Everest expeditions and the traffic or long queue is not a new news. There has been rise in number of climbers since 1990 and only looks to grow.
The ideas proposed seems to just address the issues vaguely and does not take into account of finding solutions whole heartedly. Certainly expedition companies has to be more responsible when taking inexperienced clients to these extreme altitudes and government implementing tougher rules & regulations can be one way. Regulators needs to listen to experienced veteran Nepalese and non-Nepalese climbing leaders, operators, mountaineering community and boards on how to increase the quality and safety of Everest expeditions. It is no easy fix and the challenge will always remain but the obvious issues (like inexperience climbers or teams ) should be tackled with strict rules and implementation.
Everest is an optimum challenge we as an individual can choose to face. We support and encourage you on your aspiration to endeavour on taking the journey of the highest challenge that man kind can face. But all we ask is taking a route that protects you and your team, enriches you with the experience of alpinism and eventually fulfilling your aspirations.
* Cheap expedition - Discounted Expedition were ran on as low as $20,000 p/p which dramatically reduces
and impacts the quality of the expeditions both for the individuals and the operating team.
Nutrition for Mountain climbing - Namas Adventure
NUTRITION FOR MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
Climbing high altitude mountains for both sports and recreational purposes is an immense physical challenge. Altitudes above 4000M to 5000 M are considered high altitudes and 5000M above are considered extreme altitudes. You have to be physically, psychologically, and mentally prepared. Preparing yourself by exercising and practicing techniques, getting the right gears are important parts of mountain climbing. However, to be able to make yourself stronger during training and climbing days getting the right nutrition is very important. Did you know that taking the right diet can improve your effort ability by 20% overall? It is easier said than done but when it comes to mountains and high altitude you might want to dedicate yourself to this regime of the right amount of exercise to make you physically fit and eating well. The right nutrition is another factor in your performance.
“ Did you know that taking the right diet can improve your effort ability by 20% overall”
Research has shown that when climbing high altitude mountains climbers can burn anywhere from 6000 - 10,000 calories per day. Losing weight is very normal and you will have to gain your strength back quickly. Your digestive system won’t work the same way as it does at a lower altitude. Your system will want to reject food as it does not want to put in much effort and forcing yourself to eat is necessary. Carbohydrate (carbs) is your best friend when it comes to nutritional value but also do not forget the proteins and fats. You will have to snack a lot with easy-to-absorb carbs, hydrate often, during your climbing hours, and when you rest during dinner at your camps more carbs and proteins. Fill up that glucose in your body as it stores fats in your body which your body will use when needed or during the hard push.
“60% - 70% of your meal nutrition should be carbs, 20-30% proteins and 5% - 10% fats”
Recommendations
High carbohydrate foods - Rice or whole grain products, bread, pasta, fruits rich in natural sugar ( banana, oranges, blueberries, grapefruit, apple) sweet potatoes, potatoes, milk, Quinoa, kidney beans & chick peaks.
You can also pack dried frozen dried meals that are easily packable, 90% lighter, preserve the natural taste, gives you nutritional value. Easy to prepare, just pour boiling water, stir and wait about 10 minutes, and feast on it. This is highly practical as it makes logistical planning much easier. We recommend (LYO FOODS) they have some great options, especially for mountaineering.
Proteins sources mile & cheese, meats, tofu, eggs, lentils and seeds, and nuts.
Fats source dried meats, butter or ghee, chocolate, olives.
Keeping yourself hydrated throughout is very very important. You will sweat a lot, we recommend you to intake anywhere from 4l- 6l of water every day. Just drinking normal water is not enough. It is necessary to add hydrating tables with electrolytes in your water. Products recommended ( SIS hydration tablets, Nunu Hydration tablets )
Mini brunches when hiking/climbing for 6- 10+ hours is very crucial. Your body quickly burns all the nutrition within 2-3 hours and you will need to often replenish those nutrients. You will need foods that don’t have to be cooked, easily packable, and rich in nutrition. Bananas, chocolate, nuts& seeds, jerky or dried meat, hydration tablets, energy gels, and bars are highly recommended. Every night prepare it in a sealed bag or an area of your backpack where you can store and reach them easily. These superfoods will give you that much-needed energy, thus, you’ll feel active for a longer time.
I hope this article was helpful. It is very important that you pay attention to your diet nutrition especially during your climbing days. Remember to take in a lot of carbs during your trekking/expedition lunch or dinner time. Snack a lot, almost like a mini brunch every 2-3 hours, to give your body a constant flow of energy and stay hydrated (add hydrating tables) every time. I personally have suffered during my climbing days for not eating well or not staying properly hydrated. So I hope you can follow the suggestion and enjoy your climbing. During your trekking/expedition on all our itineraries, meals with these nutritional values are served at the lodges we rest or during camping. Extra food is always helpful. Please ask our team how much you will need to personally pack.
One more thing, do not intake any alcohol, especially during your climbing days. You will see Sherpas or porters who have always been climbing drink but you need to remember that their bodies have always been through this every year in and out. So comparing it won’t help, instead, save it for the last and enjoy your beer after your climbing is finished when you return to base camp or the nearest lodging area.
Also, please carry your waste with you all the time and dump them on your next village or lodging spot. Encourage your team not to litter the mountains as the waste might never be removed from these remote and pristine areas.
Keep exploring, eat well take on that challenge. Mountains are calling. Go live your story.
References -
https://lyofood.com/blogs/lyofood-blog/nutrition-at-high-altitude?welcome
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/12-healthy-high-carb-foods
Written by - Bisesh
Training for Mountain climbing Expeditions - Namas Adventure
TRAINING FOR MOUNTAIN EXPEDITION
The goal of your training is to get physically and mentally prepared to successfully complete your expedition. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout our expedition. Mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. As you will be climbing in high altitudes, both your cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at different levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain. The greater your level of fitness, the more efficiently you can acclimate to the altitude. Fit climbers spend less energy on certain tasks, leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatisation.
When training you should particularly focus on two key areas of endurance building, developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart and lungs) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, agility, and balance), following specific goals and timelines.
We suggest all our interested climbers commit to at least a minimum of four-six months of training time depending on your expedition.
ENDURANCE TRAINING
Endurance fitness is considered the most important for all mountaineers. Your expedition and body will demand various levels of intensity all day throughout. Excellent cardiovascular and motor fitness is very necessary. This can be both aerobic exercises as well as muscular endurance exercises.
Long-distance slow- running is one of the best ways to build your endurance fitness level.
CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS
Cardiovascular Endurance is the ability of the heart and lungs to supply oxygen-rich blood to the working muscle tissues and the ability of the muscles to use oxygen to produce energy for movement. To get the most from your cardiovascular workouts, the ACSM suggests that you exercise three to five times a week at 60 to 90 percent of your maximum heart rate. Sessions should last more than 30 minutes, and you should choose exercises that use large muscle groups in a rhythmical fashion, such as long-distance cycling, running, swimming, or rowing. If you live near mountains hiking with 20/25kgs for 10miles once or twice a week is the best way to gain even more real-world experiences.
STRENGTH AND MUSCULAR ENDURANCE
In addition to leg strength, mountaineering requires a strong core (back and stomach) as heavy pack weights add a new dimension to climbing. Strength training principles are essentially the same for upper and lower bodies. Strength training can involve bodyweight exercises as well as routines using traditional weights. Kettlebell routines or even CrossFit training programs are helpful to build your overall body strength.
P.S. - Make sure you are working out your cores too.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Squats, lunges, and leg presses with weights 5 - 20 kgs
Push-ups, pull-ups, and military presses
Sit-ups, chin-ups, bicycle kick, leg raise, abdominal exercises, planks
Kettlebell - Lunges, Squats, overhead press
Training Plan example:
We have attached the training log of Bisesh’s when preparing for Baruntse climb and he will follow a similar time frame and routines for other 8000M+ expeditions.
Recommended Book for Mountain training: Training for the New Alpinism (Click here)
When you near your expedition date, begin making your workouts more mountaineering specific with hikes and climbs and occasional interval sessions aimed at broadening your range of comfort at various effort levels. Nothing beats the old and tested method of long hikes in uneven and steep terrains (adding weights to on your backpack) which best replicates the enviroment you are going to be in when climbing in Nepal, Pakistan or anywhere around the world.
P.S - Make sure you stretch after every long interval training. Stretching helps reduce muscular tension and increases flexibility.
Preparing yourself by committing to weekly training routines is very important. Expedition in the mountains/Himalayas requires a lot of physical, mental, and psychological toughness. This nature of activity demands athlete-level fitness. It is about putting yourself in the uncomfortable zone and pushing yourself to higher limits to see what you as a person can achieve. Mountaineering expeditions of any type should not be underestimated. The journey is a challenge in itself. It will push you out of your comfort zone and you will need to dig deeper mentally and physically. It is worth every effort and this will be your life’s greatest adventure. On a plus side, it will motivate you to lead a healthy and inspiring life.
Now you know how you have to train for mountain expeditions. Get yourself out there, enjoy your training, and stay fit and together with Namas Adventure’s team and like-minded adventurers, let’s take on your expeditions into Mera Peak, Island Peak, Aconcagua, Amadablam, or other higher mountains. Happy Adventure.
Article references
Live strong: https://www.livestrong.com/article/534286-six-components-of-fitness-related-to-motor-skills/
Very well fit: https://www.verywellfit.com/interval-training-workouts-3120774
Shape.com: https://www.shape.com/fitness/workouts/interval-training-short-workouts-really-pay
Here is a video of Chad Kellogg's training for Everest.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Equipment checklist for Mountain / Peak climbing from 4000 - 7000M
EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST FOR MOUNTAIN / PEAK CLIMBING FROM 4000 - 7000M
Good solid gears are an integral part of a successful peak or mountain climbing. We have listed the absolute necessities of mountain climbing gears to help you on your journey to the summit. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by our Everest and other 6000+ expedition leaders. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear. The listed gears below are for mountain and Himalayan peak from 4000 to 7000M. Expeditions which we operate at Namas adventure ( Mera Peak, Island peak, Mount Blanc, Aconcagua ), are the recommended essential gear for extreme conditions.
Climbing Gears
Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel or similar brands)
Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
Carabineers: 3 lockings and 6 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Trekking Poles
Mountaineering boots
Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva GSM2 or equivalent
Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection (North face, Salomon, La Sportiva, or similar mountain brands )
Gaiters
Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Flip flops / Slippers
Body Layers
2 merino base layers: top/bottom set
1 mid-layer top: breathable Underwear
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore-tex and breathable
Hooded Hard Shell: Gore-tex and breathable
Hard Shell Pants: Gore-tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North face Himalayan parka or equivalent with 600-800 down fills
Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Hiking Shorts
Headgear and Handwear
Wool hat (ski hat)
Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
Under helmet Balaclava
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
Softshell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Equipment & Personal Gears
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
25L - 35LTrekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 to - 40°F. Goose down or synthetic
Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed-cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon
Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
Multisport watch with Altimeter & GPS navigation
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
Lip balm with sunblock
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
Thermos: 1 liter (buy good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and a small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers
Penknife or multi-tool (optional)
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
Travel Clothes
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smartphone, etc
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*
Apart from your personal clothes and shoes most of the mountain gears, sleeping bags, and mats can be rented when you are planning an expedition in Nepal, France, or Argentina.
Companies recommended
Climbing Gears - Black diamond, Petzl, Grivel
Mountaineering boots - La Sportiva, Kailas, Mammut, Scarpa
Trekking Boots - La Sportiva, Northface, Patagonia, Mammut
Body Layers - Northface, Mountain hardware, Mammut, Patagonia, Arctyrex, Marmot, Rab
Headgear and hand wear - Northface, Mountain hardware, Patagonia, Mammut
Glasses - Julbo
Other gear companies: Exped, Garmin, Goal zero, Bio lite, MSR Gears
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Altitude sickness
ALTITUDE SICKNESS
As adventure travelers, we naturally have the urge to defy the challenges that we see or want to take head-on so that we can accomplish our sense of adventure. There are also times when your body defies all the expectations, all science and we do have the capacity to prove all the numbers wrong but it is wise to understand the warnings and worst-case scenarios of our daring adventures. Also, another piece of advice is just because you didn't have it on the first run doesn't mean you will not have it on your next high altitude adventure. 'Prevention is better than cure', applies in the mountains.
While trekking or mountaineering adventure you have to be aware of acute mountain sickness going into the high altitude zones. We cannot point out precisely exactly what type of person certainly suffers from this, but the signs and symptoms are there when ascending the great Himalayas peaks, Andes, or any high altitude mountains. In this post, we will cover the science behind it and some of the suggestions that have been developed so far to overcome altitude sickness. In fairness, even mountain climbers who have climbed Everest 10 + times suffer from the symptoms, they are just better at dealing with it. There is no escaping and it is normal to feel its effect but it is very important to follow the precautions and guidelines to be safe, enjoy and complete your adventure.
So what is Altitude sickness and its three types?
It is a group of symptoms only experienced when elevating high altitudes too quickly. We say on average people start to feel the effects from 2500M above sea level.
Three types of altitude sickness:
1. Acute mountain sickness (2500 M +) is the mildest form and it’s very common. The symptoms can feel like a hangover-dizziness, headache, muscle aches, nausea.
2. High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE, 3200 M+) is a buildup of fluid in the lungs that can be very dangerous and even life-threatening.
3. High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE 4300 M+) is the most severe form of altitude sickness and happens when there’s fluid in the brain. It’s life-threatening and you need to seek medical attention right away.
Symptoms of Altitude sickness?
Normal signs
Headache
Dizziness
Nausea or Vomiting
tiredness
Shortness of breath
Loss of appetite
Some of the extreme signs that need immediate attention
Face, eyes, and lips color turns dark red to blue
Extreme Stomach ache and constant Vomiting
Loss in consciousness and fainting
Do not panic, when you have any of these signs. Follow the instruction from the guides and remember your body has the capacity to overcome and adapt to the new environment. Also, do not rush on your itineraries, as longer days itinerary are designed to help your body adapt to the high altitudes and we advise our travelers not to skip their acclimatization day. It is usually placed during the rest days to climb up to 300M - 500M high so that your body adapts to the environment. So that your body adapts and develops extra red blood cells in your bloodstream which in turn helps your body and brain to better utilize the oxygen in your body.
Note - It is very important that you have the right insurance (with Repatriation) and Helicopter rescue. Helicopter rescue is very effective in Nepal. You will need to provide all your insurance details (emergency hotline) to your operators so that when needed rescue is sent immediately. Please check our trusted insurance provides page (click here). Although there has been news of scams, reputable companies/operators won’t risk this, cheap tour prices are one of the main indicators.
Prevention and treatments.
Mountains as beautiful and magnificent they are, comes with hostility and challenges which we are not used to in our daily lives. We have laid down some preventions to overcome them.
Avoid flying directly to areas above 3000M high
Avoid alcohol and heavy smoking
Drink enough water. (3l - 4l) per day.
Do not overstress your body and avoid heavy exercise.
Walk at a mild comfortable pace. ( It is not a race, you want to overcome the challenge but understanding your body and mind is important, do not let your ego take over)
Acclimatization day is important, Stop and rest when you can.
Energy or Chocolate bars are helpful
Every night before sleep, drink hot tea or water. Jasmine tea is our favorite.
If you fall sick allow your body to fall sick and get some rest, there’s natural ease when you allow your body to accept what you are feeling instead of fighting it.
Treatments
Drop altitude immediately, we recommend anywhere from 500M - 1000M.
Take bottled oxygen (Normally for mountaineering or in an extreme case)
Take medication (all our guides will be carrying first aid kits )
Control your breathing and be mindfully aware of your heartbeat.
Finally, it would also be wise to follow local ways to dealing with altitude sickness. We can share few local tips
Garlic soups are the best while trekking the Himalayas. Garlic’s natural properties assist in thinning your blood which helps for better circulation.
If you can take a spicy taste, potato wedges with spicy Nepalese chutney (local ingredient) help with headache
Try to avoid sleeping during day, try and resist the pain and sip warm Jasmine tea or water.
Dal Bhat power 24 hours, it rhymes but definitely has its benefits. The carbs give you the strength and energy needed to ascend the hills of Nepal.
And lastly, check the level of oxygen in your body when you stop for the night. All our local guides will be carrying one set of fingertip oxygen level checkers to make sure your body has the right amount of oxygen needed. Based on that and their experience, they will advise you on how to recover and give their extra needed attention for your care.
Oxygen level chart ( click here )
Note - It is very important that you have the right insurance (with Repatriation) and Helicopter rescue. Helicopter rescue is very effective in Nepal. You will need to provide all your insurance details (emergency hotline) to your operators so that when needed rescue is sent immediately. Please check our trusted insurance provides page (click here). Although there has been news of scams, reputable companies/operators won’t risk this, cheap tour prices are one of the main indicators.
Get set on your adventure into these challenging areas, be safe. Defy the odds but equally, be aware of what could go wrong equally. Happy and healthy adventures.
Live your story.