11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal - Namas Adventure
11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal
Finally, as the world is opening and countries easing restrictions, it is now time to go on those amazing mountaineering adventures. The best mountain adventure itineraries are mixed experiences of raw alpine climbing moments, giant beautiful mountains, remote environments, welcoming locals, unique cultures, newer perspectives, and adventure challenges that bring upon that realization of what’s possible for yourself. The past 2 years have been challenging to many of us and now it is finally an opportunity to reflect and venture out. In this post, we have listed 11 amazing peak climbing expeditions up to 6500M destinations that will satisfy your mountaineering needs in 2022.
POPULAR PEAKS (Beginner or Intermediate level climbers)
Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M
For any climbers wanting to start their journey of climbing in the Himalayas, we highly recommend climbing Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M in 2022. Both the peaks are semi-technical climbs in nature. Mostly mixed climbing, jummar, and abseiling are required.
This expedition will help you understand the nature and ways of climbing in the Himalayan peaks and glimpse into the culture of Nepal. Although we will be able to train and help beginner climbers during this expedition to fully enjoy your trip, we recommend climbers to have a basic mountaineering course, ice climbing, or even a climbing course. Any one of these courses will help you when climbing these 2X6000M+ peaks. Also, remember you will have to be physically fit (endurance and strength).
P.S.- we have departures in spring and autumn every year. 🙂
Mera Peak expedition moments.
If you are an absolute beginner novice climber and want to jump straight into climbing a Himalayan peak then we can vouch Mera Peak 6476M will be the right expedition for you.
Mera Peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are no technical objective dangers apart from a few small crevasses, but with guided ascents, this expedition is a perfect way to start your mountaineering journey in 2022. We provide jummar, abseil, and how to walk with crampons on training during this expedition. Lastly, the views from the summit are just out of this world. Several 8000M such as Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and several 7000ers and 6000er peaks are clearly visible on a clear weather day. You won’t forget this climb 🙂. Also, physically you will have to be fit in both endurance and strength.
1 Month getaway, peak challenge
Khumbu Three Peak Expedition
Climbers looking for month-long expeditions to spend some lengthy alpine moments exploring different 6000M peaks with different climbing challenges then, Khumbu Three peak expedition is the perfect expedition to choose in 2021. Although all the peaks are classed for beginner climbers we would recommend this to intermediate level climbers who want to build their endurance for climbing further into higher 7000M peaks. During this expedition, you will come across Baruntse 7129M, Makalu 8463M, Ama Dablam 6810M, Everest 8848M, Lhotse 8516M. So the next time you want to climb higher into 7000M or 8000M giants then this is the perfect recon expedition.
You can start either way from Mera Peak passing through Amphu Lhabtsa pass into Khumbu valley to climb Island Peak and Lobuche East or the other way around. Either way, this expedition will test your patience and make sure your endurance tank is full for this one. You are in for an amazing month-long journey.
Note - We organise Khumbu three peak expeditions every year, both during spring and autumn.
REMOTE AND FEWER CROWD EXPEDITIONS
While the Everest region dominates the number of visitors they receive each year, we highly encourage climbers to consider something different and other beautiful destinations in Nepal. There is no shortage of raw alpine moments and you can find peaks that are non-technical, semi, or super technical in nature. We believe these destinations deserve your attention and you won’t be disappointed by any of the adventures you choose in these remote parts of Nepal. So, let’s go and explore these least explored peaks and claim our summits.
Chulu West 6419M and Far East 6059M
Chulu West Peak 6419M
Chulu Peaks are situated in the heart of the Annapurna circuit region. There are 3 peaks and summits (West, Far-east, and East) in the Chulu mountain range. For anyone seeking a non-technical climb, we recommend peak Chulu Far east 6059M which is suitable for novice climbers and is pretty much a trekking peak.
Chulu West 6419M is a semi-technical climbing peak and with the assistance of our guides, beginner or intermediate level climbers will be able to successfully climb Chulu West peak. If you want to explore the beautiful Annapurna region and climb beginner-level peaks in the region then we have departures here every mid-spring and autumn. We highly recommend adding another 3 days to your expedition to visit the emerald blue 😍 Tilicho Lake 4900M.
Join us every year on this remote expedition in the beautiful Annapurna region. This region and peak certainly deserve your attention and alpine moments.
Yala Peak 5700M
Another remote destination in the Langtang region. Perfect climbing peak novice climbers who have never climbed any peaks. We recommend this amazing peak climbing expedition to anyone who wants to avoid the crowd and somewhat morden Everest region.
Langtang valley was the most affected region by the 2015’s earthquake in Nepal and ever since this region has been struggling to welcome back its visitors. The locals will thank you for choosing Langtang as your preferred destination and there is no shortage of other peak climbing objectives in this region.
Want to explore and climb Yala Peak 5700M in the Langtang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Saribung Peak 6328M
Saribung Peak in the centre with glacier hole.
Saribung Peak Climbing has is another option for anyone seeking a new peak climbing destination to climb in the remote Mustang region of Nepal close to the Nepal-Tibet border. What’s particularly interesting about this expedition is its entry in the forbidden Kingdom of Mustang which exposes climbers to newer and diverse cultures of the Nepalese Tibetan traditions. There are very few trekkers and climbers going into this region.
The peak is classed at PD grade with fitness level grade at 2 to 3 for any interested climbers. This expedition features off the beaten path trekking to base camp, semi-technical climb, old isolated villages such as Nar-Phu and from the summit on a clear summit day, giant mountains such as Nilgiri Himal (7,061 m), Himlung Himal (7,126m), Lamjung Himal (6,983m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m), and Annapurna II (7,937m).
The best time to go plan this expedition is during Spring (Mid March-May) or Early Autumn (End of August - November). Participation when taking part in these expeditions needs to be moderately fit although the peak itself is not a super touch technical climbing peak.
Want to climb the remote Saribung peak 6328 in the remote corner of the Upper Mustang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Larkya Peak, Sano (Small) Summit 5807M or Thulo (Big) Summit 6249M
Larkya Peak 6249M expedition is another hidden gem in the Manaslu circuit region. The peak is classed at PD+ mountain grade with 2 to 3 fitness grade requirements. You will need around 18 to 20 days to complete this expedition.
The trek leading up to the Larkya pass is a beautiful journey and the base camp lies close to the pass. Larkya peak expedition hosts two summits (Sano and Thulo). The climb to the Thulo or higher summit is longer hence a high camp has to be set up, which is recommended in order to acclimatize properly before proceeding higher. With the high camp set up, it is a safer way to access both the summits.
Given its location, you can be guaranteed to see the giant views of Manaslu 8163M, the Annapurnas, Ganesh Himal, and beyond.
Want to climb and double your summit at Larkya Peaks in the beautiful Manaslu circuit region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Dhampus Peak 6012M (Thapa Peak)
Dhampus Peak 6012M is also referred to as Thapa peak. This is another beautiful trek and peak expedition to climb in the Dhaulagiri circuit region. Dhampus peak is a chained prominent peak of Dhaulagiri along with Tukuche Himal to the west of Kali Gandaki valley.
This peak is also graded at PD+ mountain grade and 2 to 3 fitness level grade. When there is less snow in the peak the climb is straightforward mostly on the slopes and a few rock scrambling sections around the summit area. When there are ice and snow then it gets a bit challenging as it required mixed climbing. Although this peak is suitable for beginner-level climbers we encourage climbers to at least have a winter mountaineering course, which will give you greater confidence during your expedition.
There are two routes to reach the base camp via Dhampus pass 5240M and Kali Gandaki valley side of the mountain to a makeshift Yak heard campsite and finally crossing to Dhampus pass. Once climbers reach Dhaulagiri base camp they camp here for 1 or 2 days and then head higher to french pass to finally head to the hidden valley where the base camp is set up for Dhampus peak summit bid. Totally isolated, raw, and with fewer climbs this expedition can be one of the most rewarding expeditions to accomplish and keep in your adventure memories.
Want to explore the raw Dhaulagiri base camp and climb the totally isolated Dhampus Peak 6012M? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
TECHNICAL CLIMB (For Experienced climbers only)
Cholatse Peak 6440M
Cholaste Peak 6440M expedition is not for inexperienced or intermediate-level climbers. This expedition is considered more of alpine-style climbing. Graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grading this mountain expedition is a serious undertaking. Cholatse peak is rated as the same or above Ama Dablam 6819M when comparing the mountain difficulty levels. There are no easy routes to the summit and descend and the southwest ridge is mostly used by the expedition team.
It is one of the more prominent peaks on the approach to the Mt. Everest Base camp. South West Ridge route is considered the expedition route which involves climbing steep snow and ice pitches linking two camps to the summit. The route ascends through snow slopes leading to a crux section on the rock. The climb is mostly on glacial ice on an exposed ridge. Once past the difficult section, the climbing reaches a steep and another exposed ridgeline that plateaus onto the summit dome. There are fewer teams in Cholatse compared to the Ama Dablam expedition.
P.S- We will be organizing Cholatse Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:2 guide/client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas. We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members
Taboche (Tawoche) Peak 6501M
Climbers looking to climb other 6000M expeditions that are challenging and technical then Taboche Peak 6501M is another option. This is a very striking peak that is connected via a long ridge with the Cholatse peak. This 6500M peak is also graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grades. This expedition can be combined with the Cholatse peak expedition sharing the same base camps.
Getting up the mountain takes a lot of your energy and is only recommended to experienced skilled climbers especially those seeking technical alpine-style climbs on steep slopes, penetrating rocky pitches, and thick, dense ice. The total expedition can take around 25+ days to complete. Interested climbers should be highly skilled in ice and mixed climbing and climbing in exposed sections of high altitude.
The base camp is set up at 5200m and the following acclimatization at either Gokyo RI or Kalapatthar. Climbing up the peak is a strenuous journey with some experienced climbers taking around 10 days to complete the 1200M climb to reach the summit. This is a rocky, icy, and technically competent mountain.
P.S- We will be organizing Taboche Peak and Chotase Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas.
KYAJO RI 6186M EXPEDITION
Right in the central of Khumbu valley lies this beautiful technical peak. Kyajo Ri 6186M is graded at AD+ mountain grade with 3 to 4 fitness levels required to take on this peak. There is almost no fixed rope on the route and there are fewer unacceptable dangers when compared to Cholatse or Taboche Peak. Kyajo Ri involves steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, mixed ice and rock climbing, and crampon techniques, and ice ax arrest skills are required.
Southwest ridge is the normal and safer route accessed via the southeast col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Teams will do about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Namche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo. The summit is a sharp-edged peak with no room for many climbers at once.
There aren’t many expeditions running in this peak in any given years, at least yet, and can host a comfortable and beautiful base camp deep in the isolated section of the Khumbu region. This peak is perfect to test our tour technical climbing abilities.
Note- We will be organizing Kyajo Ri Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing high technical peaks in the Himalayas.
Conclusion
There are plenty of mountaineering objectives to take upon for your mountain climbing adventure in Nepal. This is no new news. Where ever you stand on your climbing experience and level there is plenty of inspirations and challenging mountain peaks to climb in Nepal. As always Everest region dominates with travelers every year but even with that, there are pockets of destinations that host fewer climbers like Cholatse, Taboche, or Kyajo Ri peak mountains.
Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, and Island Peak will see more climbers because of their accessibility, no of teams, and classic guided mountaineering styles. These features of the mountain make it favorable for most beginner or intermediate level climbers to take on these beautiful peaks.
Meanwhile, Chulu West or the Far East, Yala Peak, Dhampus peak, Larkya peak, Saribung peaks lie in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri zones. These areas are already isolated and there are fewer trekkers and climbers in this region. If you particularly want to be away from everyone and want to enjoy your mountain expeditions in isolated and be exposed to unique cultures and traditions then these are the 6000M expeditions we recommend for beginner or intermediate level climbers in 2022.
Question
Are you planning your next mountain expedition in Nepal? What is your preference when planning a mountain expedition in Nepal (Remote or famous peaks)? What is your experience level? Are you a novice, beginner, intermediate, or professional skill level climber? Which mountain peak do you want to climb in the Himalayas?
Our team can assist you in your dream expeditions and help you achieve your summit safely while creating lifelong memories to cherish.
Climb that mountain because it’s there.
Go. Live Your Story.
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal
Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best expedition program for anyone seeking long mountain adventure days and a feast of Himalayan climbing experience. Climbers will summit three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Trekking through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the lifestyle in the mountains, witness Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).
Climbers pass through several beautiful villages of Khumbu and Makalu/Barun valley. Once climbers arrive at the base of each peak alpine camping beings. The expedition is suitable for anyone with beginner to intermediate skill levels. Past experience is not mandatory but climbers must have very good endurance fitness since this is a month-long expedition. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of three amazing peaks in Nepal.
Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.
Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.
After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)
Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary
Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri
The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)
The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.
Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.
Climbing and crossing the challenging Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M.
Mera High Camp 5800M
Mera high camp 5800M is one of the iconic high camps. Climbers will come across the final or beginning leg of their Khumbu Three Peak expedition. Out of all the three summits, Mera peak summit offers the most grander view of the Himalayas. Most of the 8000M+ in the Khumbu and Makalu region can be seen. On the left Cho-Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu to Kanchenjunga in the far right hand side. Chamlang another 7000M+ peak can be seen in front (slightly to right) from the summit and other Himalayan peaks are clearly visible. On a clear summit day, the view is something out of this world.
Himalayan panoramic view from Mera Peak summit 6476M.
Want to plan your expedition to the Khumbu Three Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Mera Peak Ski Expedition. New possibilities in the Himalayas - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak Ski Expedition. New possibilities in the Himalayas
Mera Peak has been attracting high-altitude ski lovers and we can understand why. Although ski adventure has yet to be a fully commercial adventure activity in Nepal, foreigners seeking high altitude ski thrill adventures have been navigating the slopes of the Himalayas. Nepal has some of the highest mountains in the world and all the ski enthusiasts must be wondering why does Nepal not already have ski facilities in place? Poor infrastructure and lack of knowledge in ski sport and business models have been a foreign thing for Nepal.
But with changing time and the need for more adventure options rather than just climbing, ski sport has been gaining attention and particularly on the slopes of Mera peak. We would say it’s pretty high, wild and off-piste but that is what makes it attractive when planning a ski expedition in Nepal. Spring sees a lot of fresh snow which may make it an ideal condition to but the ones who have skied in the past, rather prefers planning skiing during autumn. With a good amount of both stable and fresh snow, skiing in autumn is much more enjoyable. We understand why Mera Peak attracts skiers as it has fewer objective hazards in normal climbing routes (i.e. crevasse, rock falls, avalanches) and the mountain has a wide section to climb or ski down making it much safer to ski compared to a narrow couloir. Our guide members who are not ski trained would always say that skiing down Mera would be so much fun and less tiring 😅. But yes ski Expedition in Mera is a new possibility adding new adventure activity in the Nepalese mountaineering scene. Nepal now has IFMGA certified ski-trained guides who can assist you in making the climb and shred down the slopes of Mera peak together. This will be one hell of an adventure for anyone planning their expedition. To top that up, you will be skiing down a peak higher than the whole of North America or Europe, how about that for a portfolio of mountains you have skied down. Skiers will have to be proficient and at least have 50+ hours of ski sessions with few high altitudes off-piste ski experiences.
Permits are a must ($1000 for 1 - 10 skiers) and an additional $100 per additional member. A separate Mera Peak climbing permit is also needed. Want to plan your next high-altitude ski expedition in Nepal? Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to plan your adventure and our team will be more than happy to assist you and help achieve the Mera Peak 6476M summit and safely ski down Mera Peak.
Go dare great things. Live your story.
Everything you need to know about Mera Peak 6476M climb - Namas Adventure
Summit of MeraCancel Peak 6476M
Everything you need to know about Mera Peak 6476M climb
Mera Peak is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails and of course beautiful mountains all around.
But before you embark on one of the most amazing adventures, we have listed 11 useful informations that will help you prepare for your Mera peak climbing expedition.
1. When is the best time to climb Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). During both the season there aren’t as many climbers as other peaks such as Island Peak. So climbers can expect a low-medium number of climbers.
For experienced climbers, winter climb is still possible but this comes with a lot of uncertainties. i.e unstable conditions, tea houses may not be operational or even the ones operating won’t be well-stocked. Pre-arrangements will have to be made but that will also depend on the number of climbers.
2. Is it possible to shorten Mera Peak climb?
Mera peak climbing can definitely be shortened but this comes at an additional cost. At Namas adventure, we do provide these services for private client groups ( 2+ members). The shortest Itinerary we can make it up to is 10 days Itinerary. Extra charges apply of an additional $4000 - $4500 applies since we will have to charter helicopter services. Please contact our team for other flexible options.
3. How much does it cost to climb Mera Peak? What does the cost include?
With Namas Adventure, Mera Peak costs $3650/£2850/€3300 per person. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead.
List of what’s included in your booking.
NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
35Kgs per person
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
4. Are guides necessary for Mera Peak?
To issue a permit for Mera Peak climb, you will have to go through a registered local company, for this purpose guides are hired. For beginner to intermediate climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The usual climbing route does have a crevasse and new hazards may appear every climbing season. Experienced climbers/guides who want to venture into new routes will still have to be assigned a local guide even if they don’t prefer them climbing with them. So, yes legally speaking guide assistance is required.
5. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Mera Peak climb?
On high altitude climbing trips like Mera Peak climbing expedition, it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. With years of climbing -guiding experiences and well-known scientific literature, we know that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation. With that knowledge and experience, our team has built up the following Mera Peak Itinerary.
On Mera Peak climbing trip, we make sure your itinerary has both Mera Peak base camp and high camp. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gain enough strength to make your summit climb.
6. What training required to climb Mera Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?
Mera Peak is by no means an easy climb even though we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers to focus on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
7. How hard is Mera Peak climb?
Mera peak is graded at 1B. (Alpine grading link).
If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude. Once you depart from Mera Base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. You will be walking for 4-6 hours to reach high camp. Summit day climb starts early (3 or 4 am) with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit by sunrise. This will be the most challenging and rewarding part of the climb. You can expect to hike around 10+ hours on this day as you will have to summit and then descend back to Khare village. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through this final day and to the Summit.
8. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mera Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mera Peak climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during nighttime when temperatures can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gears.
Renting your gears in Nepal? We provide gear rentals exclusively for Namas Adventure clients during our climbs. All the gears are in the best condition, clean, and highest quality. Kailas equipment provides all-out mountaineering gears. (Namas Equipment hire link)
If you want to hire it from other local sources in Nepal, our simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it.
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Mera Peak
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
9. What types of foods are available during Mera Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?
We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
10. What trip insurance will I need for Mera Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Mera Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Mera Peak climb?
If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.
Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing
Island Peak is another 6100+ M peak that includes some technical climbing sections compared to Mera peak. To reach Island peak after Mera Peak climbers will have to climb via Amphu Laptsa Pass 5845M and then descend to Imja valley. Island peak is also known as Imja Tse peak (Local name).
Island Peak 6189M
This expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and a challenging feat on climbing on Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189M), Lobuche East (6119M).
Once you have completed your Mera Peak climb and when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 7000M+ - 8000M+ peaks that you can aim for. Baruntse Peak Expedition 7129M, Himlung Himal Expedition 7126M or Manaslu Expedition 8163M.
Baruntse Base Camp 5300M
Mera Peak is one of the most exhilarating adventure of a lifetime. Like every other mountain climbing trip this is a worthwhile adventure. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Mera Peak climbing expedition. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mera Peak climbing trip. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Climb - Mera Peak link
Top 5 peaks for beginner/novice climbers in Nepal, Himalayas - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak
Top 5 peaks for beginner/novice climbers in Nepal, Himalayas
Mountain climbing is one of the most amazing adventure sports. People climb mountains because of many reasons. The adventure thrill-seekers would like to challenge themselves, some climb for the excitement, but for others, the desire to reach the top of the peaks in Nepal has been growing over years. The journey through valleys, mountain ranges, and highlands is a sight to behold as it makes you realize why people spend sleepless nights and challenge themselves to the achievement of a mountain summit. Beyond the breathtaking views, there are many reasons to get motivated to climb mountains. Mountain climbing also provides an opportunity for cultural exchanges and a chance to see how people from rural areas live. Overall, mountain climbing is a fulfilling experience where you can develop friendships, gain new skills, and open up your mind to new possibilities.
If you are one of those curious challenge-seeking adventure lovers, then it’s only natural for you to question, is mountain climbing safe? I do not have any previous mountain climbing experience, can I climb and summit particular mountains? You may have trekked to high altitude places like Everest base camp, Annapurna region, or hiked around the world and you naturally want to explore higher ground? You may want to summit Everest one day or even all the highest peaks around the world but do not know where to start? Or you finally have the time and motivation to at least give mountain climbing a try or there may be thousand other inspirations.
On this blog, we want to help you by suggesting the best 5 peaks suitable for beginner/novice level or even intermediate level climbers. We promise you, there’s no shortage of awe-inspiring moments, adventure thrill and challenges in any of the suggested peaks below. The summit days will be tough but that’s the beauty of peak climbing. After-all “The best view only comes after the hardest climb”
1. Mera Peak 6476M
Summit of Mera Peak 6476M
Overview:
Altitude: 6,476M / 21,246FT
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice
Type: Non-technical/High altitude trekking style climb
Location: Makalu Barun National Park
When to climb: March-May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: F / 2-3 (Alpine/fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea house and 1-2 high camps above 5000M
What makes Mera Peak suitable for all beginner-level climbers is its non-technical climbing style. What do we mean by that? Simply put the climb does not need fixed-line ropes, ice-axes, ladders, or other alpine techniques to climb to the summit. It is a good old fashion uphill steep walk with your mountaineering boots and crampons on. You may need a little practice walking with your crampons on but once those boots are on you will soon get the hang of it. From Mera base camp to the summit you will be walking on ice and snowy surfaces. This will be the most challenging part of your entire itinerary. Mera Base camp is not included in many other operators’ itineraries but we believe it is the best approach when attempting to climb Mera Peak. This will give our climbers an extra day to rest/acclimatize at 5400M altitude. There is no point in rushing into the mountains, your body not being acclimatized properly, and having to abort your final summit push.
Mera high camp 6100M, is another highlight of this expedition. The camp is set up just in the shadow of what seems like a half-scrapped-off part of a mountain. Both Mera base and high camp expose you to alpine-style camping. Totally secluded just you, fellow climbers, and the alpine environment. (lots of snow and mountains around).
Once you start your climb from the high camp, the view of the surrounding mountain gets better and better and endless beauty. From the Summit of Mera Peak, you will have the most widest and beautiful views of the Himalayas because of its geographic positioning in the region. 8000M + peaks such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu and Kanchenjunga are visible. Other iconic peaks like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Chamlang are also seen in the distance. Like every other mountaineering adventure, the entire climb is physically and mentally challenging. But once you are at the summit it is well worth it.
Ridge climb to Summit of Island Peak 6189M
Overview:
Altitude: 6,189 M / 20,305 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-technical climb/Jummar
Location: Everest Khumbu Region/Imja Valley
When to climb: March-May or September - November
Total no of days: 20 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine /Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea Houses and Alpine camping at Island Peak BC and high camp
Island Peak 6189M, is one of the most popular peaks to climb in Nepal. Island peak climb shares an itinerary with Everest base camp and is included in the trip itinerary. Although this peak is slightly smaller than Mera Peak, the final Summit push is the final crux, an almost 90-degree vertical climb.
Island Peak, is graded as a semi-technical climb, by this we mean climbers will need to use fixed-line ropes to climb up the peak and abseil/rappel down when descending down the peak. Summit day is the hardest, as it can be very physically and mentally challenging for beginner-level climbers. There are wide crevasses along the route, so climbers will also have to use steel ladders (which will already be set up) from base camp to high camp/crampon point. This feature of the climb makes it one of the best climbing experiences to learn basics mountaineering skills and also gives climbers an understanding of the level of fitness needed when climbing bigger mountains. The summit ridge is very exposed and not many climbers can fit at a single time. Having stated that, once you are at the summit, you will be over-filled with the joy of accomplishment and the Himalayan views all around will make it a worthwhile accomplishment.
Setting eyes on Chulu West Peak 6419M in far distant.
Overview:
Altitude: 6,419M / 21,059 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-Technical/Jummar
Location: Annapurna region, Manang District
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea houses and Alpine camping to Chulu West BC and high camp
Chulu West 6419M Peak, is another 6000M+ climbing peak in the north-midwestern part of Nepal. The peak is located in the beautiful region of the Annapurna region. Trekking through one of the world’s most beautiful trekking routes, climbers set apart to Chulu base camp from Ledar village to embark on their peak climbing adventure. The peak resides on the backdrop of the great Annapurna Massif range, Himlung Himal on the northeast and further is the great Manaslu peak.
Chulu West Peak climb is a semi-technical climbing peak, making it suitable for beginner and intermediate experience level climbers. With fewer technical sections, climbers will mostly depend on their endurance and physical strength while climbing. The climb is mostly on ice and snow terrain all the way to the summit. Once on the summit, climbers are given a glimpse of the great Annapurna Massif ranges and other surrounding peaks of Mid-western Nepal. Climbing peaks in the Annapurna region can be a different experience compared to the Everest region. If you want to go even remotely and enjoy one of the world’s beautiful trails, climbing a peak in the Annapurna region is an experience on its own. Chulu West Peak is the right option to go for climbers seeking fewer crowd options.
Summit Push to Lobuche East Peak 6118M
Overview:
Altitude: 6,119M / 20,072 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-technical/Jummar
Location: Everest Khumbu Region
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 20 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine/fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea houses and Alpine camping at BC and high camp
Lobuche East 6119M Peak, is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. This peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams, as one of the training peaks before heading for Everest Expedition. The base camp is located just a day away from Everest base camp.
Lobuche East Peak is graded 2B, the same as Island Peak. Climbers will have to use assisted fixed-line ropes, descend using abseiling techniques, and should be comfortable on exposed terrain. The climb is mostly on snow, ice, and rock surfaces. The summit is narrow, exposed and Everest is visible from the summit, unlike Island Peak summit. The climb is a 60-70 degrees climb and can be somewhat challenging for beginner/novice level climbers. This can also be a perfect mountain to climb whatever your climbing goals.
5. Pisang Peak
Pisang Peak 6100M, Pic by Oleg Bartunov
Overview:
Altitude: 6,100M / 20,013 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice
Type: Semi-technical
Location: Annapurna region, Manang District
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: F\2-3 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Alpine camping to Chulu West BC
Pisang Peak sits in the Manang district, Nepal. The peak is tucked just between Annapurna I and Manaslu. This is another 6000M+ Peak in the Annapurna region suitable for beginner/novice level climbers. This peak also falls in the Annapurna circuit trail and the climb starts after the beautiful Pisang village.
Pisang Peak is graded at 1B climb but has some technical climbing feature during the summit climb. Fixed line ropes have to be used when climbing. Climbers will have to navigate through rocky, ice, and snowy surfaces. Climbers will need to have a good fitness level when climbing as other peak climbing in Nepal.
Climb - Pisang Peak (Email us for private climbing inquiry)
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Other related articles:
Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing - Namas Adventure
Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing
Investing in the right boots is a must for any high altitude mountaineering activities. We highly suggest all climbers to not cut corners while purchasing these essential life-saving equipment. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice/rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We recommend you go to your nearest store to try it on and give it a feel on how you feel when trying on these boots. In the end, you should feel comfortable with those boots. We have listed three of our favorite boots which are suitable for Mera Peak climbing.
La Sportiva G2SM
La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double-layered system can withstand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots have a sturdy and quality feel and have BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged, unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)
Scarpa Phantom 6000
Lightweight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is built for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)
GTX Mountaineering Boots 5000m
With classic style Kailas GTX performs well in the rugged conditions. Lightweight, insulated (able to withstand up to -30C, all crampons compatible, these boots are suitable for 5000M+ to 65000M mountaineering activities.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Namas Adventure team.
Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Photo by - Mark Horrell
Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak Expedition
Choosing the right footwear is critical to climb and summit higher peaks. Baruntse Peak standing tall at 7000M + peak demands climbers to wear appropriate mountaineering boots, which must fill in numerous roles. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice / rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We have listed boots from several brands which is suitable for your Baruntse Peak expedition.
La Sportiva G2SM
La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double layered system can with stand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots has a sturdy and quality feel and has BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)
La Sportiva Baruntse
The name itself suggest this boot particularly for Baruntse and any other 6000M-7000M peak expeditions. A sturdy built mountaineering boots specifically designed for high altitude mountaineering expedition. It is a double layered boot highly insulated boot with with tradition lacing style system. (Boot review)
Scarpa Pthanom 6000
Light weight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is build for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)
8000M Boots
For any climbers looking ahead for bigger expedition in near future, investing right away in a 8000M expedition can be a great idea, saving any extra expenses. Climbers normally use 8000M peak boots even during 6000M + expeditions. (Kailas Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons cube, Scarpa Phantom 8000)
Investing in a right gear is a must and a necessity when taking upon such great expeditions. We always advise our climbers to try them on when buying one and see which you feel most comfortable with, at the end it is your climb. If you want to take upon 7000M + peaks like Baruntse with Mera Peak expedition or Himlung Himal expedition , Namas team is here to be at your service and help you summit these amazing peaks while having a great time.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Namas Adventure team.
5 Things to know about Mera Peak climb - Namas Adventure
Descending down Mera Peak Summit
5 things to know about Mera Peak climbing
When is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak?
March-May ( Spring ) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak.
Is Mera Peak suitable for beginner climbers and what kind of fitness do I need?
Yes, Mera Peak is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. To reach summit 6476M you do not need any special climbing skills with ropes, gears, and use of an ice axe. Mera Peak is a very popular destination for clients with little or no mountaineering experience. The mountain has fewer to non-technical challenges, there are 3-4 small opening crevasses during the climb but apart from that, the climb is straightforward. All climbers are recommended to partake in preparative fitness and altitude training before attempting an ascent. You should be able to carry 5-8 kgs of your bag pack, walk up and downhill every day for 15/16 days and be able to push yourself during the summit climb.
Physically for beginners, Mera Peak can be demanding. We highly suggest you train yourself well over 6 - 4 months before your trip. You will need good endurance and body strength. Aerobic exercises mixing with overall body strength-building routines should help you prepare physically for your trip.
Can I see Mt. Everest from Mera Peak?
From the summit, five 8,000m peaks are visible: Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga, as well as many other Himalayan peaks. The standard route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult technical routes.
How hard is it to climb to the summit of Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is classed as 1B alpine grade. When it comes to an expedition the more fitter and stronger you are, the better your chances of successfully climbing to the summit and most of all enjoying the expedition. Summiting Mera Peak mostly depends on the weather condition and your fitness level. The climb normally starts around 3/4 am in the morning and it is about 3-4 hours climb to the summit. For any climbers it is a technically straightforward ascent, the main hurdle being proper acclimatization to the high altitude.
Which Mountain can I aim for after Mera Peak that’s above 6500M?
If you have got time and you are feeling extra adventurous then you can either Mix Mera Peak with Island Peak, which takes you through a beautiful and challenging Amphu Lapsta pass. On the way, you will also come across Baruntse 7129M and Makalu 8481M. Or you can simply take on our challenge of three 6000M+ Peak expeditions. (Mera, Island and Lobuche East) Peaks (Click for expedition Link)
Our main suggestion is to take it one step at a time. The lure of Everest is there but taking small steps, gaining the right experience, and understanding your physiology is very crucial for climbing higher mountains. Amadablam 6810M, Baruntse Peak 7129M, Manaslu 8163M, Tilicho Peak 7134M are some of the 7000M+ - 8000M+ Peak expedition we operate and organize at Namas adventure.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Mera Peak or Island Peak - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak or Island Peak
Mera Peak or Island Peak? Which 6000M peak to plan when you first want to start climbing a peak in Nepal. Which is the peak best suited for my abilities or which peak should I climb? To make your decision easier for you, we have laid out the details of each peak, which will help you decide with your 6000M peak climbing. The other option will be to combine both magnificent Mera and Island Peak climb in your itinerary.
Mera Peak 6476 M
Mera Peak 6476M, highest 6000M trekking Peak in Nepal
Non-technical climb up to 6476M. No use of ropes, ice-axe, ascender, or ladders
Beginners/novice suitable peak
Base camp and high camp strategy
Located in the Makalu Barun region of Nepal
Remote and less popular compared to Island Peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
360 Panoramic view of Nepal Himalayan range. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, and many other peaks are visible from Summit and descend to high camp.
Mera Peak is considered the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The trails break off from Lukla going in a different direction to the Makalu Barun region, which completely avoids the normal Everest trek trail usually packed by Everest base camp trekkers and climbers. So, you can expect less traffic from trekkers on Mera Peak trails. With the mountain itself is a non-technical climb, Mera peak can be a perfect mountain climbing experience for those climbers not wanting to use ropes or ascender/descender gears to climb to the summit. Simply rely on the guidance of your guide and your strength to climb the peak. Physically it can be demanding, as on your summit day you will have to ascend for 4-6 hours depending on your speed of climbing uphill. The view from the summit is awe-inspiring, as you will be able to witness a 360-degree view of the great Himalayas range. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Kanchanjhunga, and other peaks are clearly visible right in front of you during clear weather.
Island Peak 6189M
The most famous 6000M climbing peak in Nepal
Technical climb with summit approach 90 degrees ascend. Use of rope lines, ascender, figure 8 to descend, and ladders to cross the crevasse gaps.
Beginners/novice technical climbing
Base camp and high camp climbing strategy
Located in Everest trail route, in Imja valley
Remote and most popular climbing and summited 6000M peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
Narrow summit ridge and is also a perfect peak to learn technical climbing approach
Island peak shares the same trail as the Everest base camp route up to Dingboche. Island peak is the most popular and summited 6000M in the Khumbu region. Island peak is suitable for first-time beginner climbers and is a perfect mountain for climbers who wants to experience and learn technical climbing in the mountains. You will be using the steel ladders (like they use in Everest) to cross the crevasse openings and use ascenders on fixed ropes to climb onto the final steep section, a 90-degree vertical wall. When climbing you will be using ascender on the fixed ropes to climb all the way to the summit. Training will be given prior to your climbing by our Sherpa guiding team on all our climbing expeditions. Like any expedition, this peak is physically demanding and on your summit day from high camp, you will be climbing for 6 - 8 hours, depending on your speed of climbing.
Or, simply you can make it extra challenging by combing both Mera Peak and Island Peak itinerary. The beauty of this itinerary is crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass which is challenging and awe-inspiring.
Amphu Laptsa Pass 5800M
Arrival
Day 1 Kathmandu ( Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )
Day 2 Lukla / Monjo
Day 3 Monjo / Namche Bazaar
Day 4 Acclimatisation day
Day 5 Namche Bazaar / Tengboche
Day 6 Tengboche / Dingboche
Day 7 Acclimatisation
Day 8 Dingboche / Chukung
Day 9 Chukung / Island Peak base camp
Day 10 IPBC / Island peak high camp
Day 11 Ascend to Island peak summit / Chukung
Day 12 Chukung / Lobuche East Base Camp
Day 13 Lobuche High camp 5600M (5 to 6 hours)
Day 14 Summit day 6118M / High camp or Lobuche village
(1 Day Contingency Summit day, in case of bad weather to summit Lobuche east )
Day 15 Gorakshep / Everest Base Camp
Day 16 Dzongla
Day 17 Gokyo Via Cho-la-pass
Day 18 Gokyo ri trek
Day 19 Macahharmo
Day 20 Macahharmo to Doles
Day 21 Dole to Namche Bazaar
Day 22 To Lukla
Day 23 Kathmandu
Day 24 Departure
Or Another option would be Island Peak and Lobuche East peak.
Three Peak challenge (Mera, Island, and Lobuche East Peak)
We have set departures for all three peaks every year. To book your Spring or Autumn climb please email our team or head to the relevant page on our website for detailed pieces of information.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition strategy - Namas Adventure
Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition strategy
Baruntse Peak standing at 7129 M mountain is situated in Nepal between Mount Everest and Makalu in the Barun-Makalu National Park. Mount Baruntse is a substantial and symmetrical snow peak, has four ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. The three main ridges of Baruntse are situated between these glaciers and form an upturned ‘Y’running from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north past the Humni La, on to the north summit where it divides. Other well -known mountains in this area are Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Everest, and the trekking-peak Mera Peak.
Bruntse was first climbed on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd, Geoff Harrow of the Hilary New Zealand Expedition. They have climbed the mountain by the southeast Ridge. Since then many climbers have used this route and succeeded. This mountain has also been becoming coveted day by day like the other Pumori, Ama Dablam as well as Everest too.
Expedition Route
The south-east Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions have been good and the mountain has been found to be objectively safe at this time. There is still a debate on which season it is best to climb Baruntse as in the past few years 2013 - 2018 more summits have been done during the Autumn season. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.
Expedition Strategy
Acclimatizing at Mera Peak 6476 M
Baruntse Base Camp (5640 M)
Baruntse expedition route
After summiting Mera Peak, the team heads towards Baruntse Base Camp 5460M. 500m descent down into the Honku valley climbers is assured with rich oxygen, warm weather, and sunny spell making good conditions for a good night's sleep. The natural environment around is utterly desolate and utterly magnificent in its desolation.
Baruntse base camp is at 5460M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for Camp 2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 M is placed, from where the summit is attempted.
The team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike glacier just outside of camp and spend a few sessions perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. The hike features dirt trails, scramble over rocks, and crossing the beautiful glaciers. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse peak and then head back to Baruntse base camp.
Puja Day Ceremony ( Rituals ) Base Camp - West Col - Camp 1 (6100 M) Approx 10 hours
Photos by - David
A Puja ceremony, rituals are performed praying and asking permission to the god mountain for safe passage, success, and safety of the team in the morning, which is customary before beginning a climb. Many of the western climbers participating takes part by placing an object to be used in the climb - an ice axe, crampons, boots - on an altar that was made from stones and adorned with Tibetan buddhist prayer flags. The ceremony is concluded with readings and ritual blessings.
Guiding Sherpa leader teams fix the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas set up the safest way through the crevasses, overhangs, and icefalls.
Sirdar Sherpas team carry loads from basecamp at 5400 meters to camp 1 at 6100 meters and then returned to basecamp. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West col which is the final ascent before reaching Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consist, 45 degrees 200-meter high ice wall. Beautiful views on the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu, and the Amphu Lambtsa La which all the climbers will have to cross in a few day’s time when returning to Lukla.
Clients are meant to carry their personal loads 8kgs - 12kgs throughout the climb.
Camp 1 - Camp 2 (6,400M) or Advanced camp 2.1 (6,500M) | Time approx: 3 - 4 hours
Photo by - Matthew D Thornton
Camp 2 (6,400M) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse south-east. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle-like slope.
Camp 2 - Summit Push - Back to Camp 2 or 1 | Time approx: 10 - 12 hours
Technical Challenges at 6900M ridge
Pic by - Karvaniers
Very sharp ridge at (approx 6900m). The sharp ridge provides excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Sherpa team fixing the rope will assess the crevasse opening ridge and there is a consideration of adding a ladder at the top if needed. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further 60 - 90 min climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalayas.
Making it to the summit is 60% job done. Descending is one of the grueling parts of climbing parts of mountain climbing. From there the descendant with all the abseiling skills will demand the climber’s full attention. So, climbers can celebrate their moment at the top. If weather permits and stays are non windy then climbers might be able to enjoy 30 - 60 min of a celebratory moment with the panoramic view Himalayas. But normally our Guiding team will advise the climbers when to descend down. It’s best to celebrate and at the same time refuel and gain some of your energy back to be able to descend back to camp 2 or 1 safely. A lot of the mountain incident happens on the way back while descending.
Amphu Lapcha Pass 5800M
After summiting Baruntse mountain, the journey back still hosts more surprises, and before climbers reach to next civilization at Pangboche. Morene country, over boulders, passed lakes to the foot of the beautiful Amphu Lapcha. Amphu Lapcha hosts zigzag glaciers with base camp at North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. From Amphu Labtsa pass grants us views of Imja Valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, just awesome.
Advice to climbers keen on climbing Baruntse Peak
Enthusiast climbers will definitely have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 250- 300 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. Route fixing guides/Sherpas have to take a large number of ropes to fix the way. Baruntse is not for novices climbers. Climbers need to have some experience at least. Climbing experiences on both the alps, Andes mountains, and the Himalayas is necessary. Climbers with some experience in mountain climbing it is another great experience to climb Baruntse to further bag and gain a lot of knowledge in mountaineering.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Further Source:
Mera Peak a treat of panoramic Himalayan vista - Namas Adventure
MERA PEAK A TREAT OF PANORAMIC HIMALAYAN VISTA
Now, I am not exaggerating by that headline for Mera Peak. In this blog post, I am trying to share the visual journey of the Mera Peak trek/climb. First let me admit, although Mera Peak is classed as a beginners peak, I was dead tired (exhausted) by the time I got back from Summit to high camp. To me, that climb did not feel like a beginner’s climb or maybe I just was not fit enough (gotta train harder). Every Sherpa leader that I met there was like yes, this is the easiest one and the only peak with a very wide 360 views of all the Himalayas. I could feel my whole body burning with tiredness and at the same time, I was ecstatic as well because I was back safely from the summit. It was not that I had doubts about making it to the summit but I wasn’t expecting the degree of fitness I needed to have to make that climb. I have so much respect for all the Sherpa leaders that can just march up these peaks like it’s a walk in the park and I could only imagine the level of fitness everyone has when they guide the guest to 7000 - 8000 M peaks. I have realized that I need to upgrade my level of fitness by some fold and have more experiences under my belt to climb higher mountains. Next stop Baruntse Peak 7129, Tilicho peak 7134, Amadablam (climbers consider this tougher than Everest) the tough one 6810 technically challenging, Manaslu 8156 in the next 2 years.
So first all the technical details about Mera peak. The peak stands tall at 6476 M tall in Makalu valley. The mountaineering association in Nepal considers Mera as a trekking peak rather than an expedition peak which is just about right.
Beginners/ Intermediate trekking peak. No mountain climbing experience is required for this trip. Although previous trekking experiences do help.
18 Days total climb. But can be shortened 12/13 days, Mera Peak express ( Taking helicopter from Lukla to Kothe or Khare to Lukla. Additional charges apply)
Fitness level required. Endurance and strength training suggested.
Pro tip: To better your chance of making it to the Summit, make sure your itinerary has Base camp 5200M and high camp day 5800M. Both are tented camping.
Gears rentals can be done in Khare but I would highly recommend getting your own gears. I rented their equipment ( sleeping bag ) for the sake of trying and I would not recommend it at all. You will need all the mountain climbing gear for this trek. Even the boots are made of plastic ones which do not provide enough protection from the cold.
Best time to visit. March-May ( less traffic ) September - November ( high traffic )
Next goal Baruntse or Tilicho Peak ( 7000+M) mountain.
360-degree views of the Himalayas from high camp all the way to the Summit. Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and hundreds of small peaks are visible. On a clear day expect yourself to be completely blown away by the never-ending view of Himalayan vistas.
Mera peak trip was a job as well as an adventure. So the trekking trail separates from Lukla going south in the other direction than the Everest trail. That helps us avoid all the huge traffic that goes to the iconic base camp trail. The trek up to Nimgsa is pretty much walking one hilly trail, passing through small villages. But after that, the trail gets tougher and the snow made the trails even harder at some point. Mera isn’t a popular choice as Everest trails so the trails are not as well taken care of or are built like most on Everest base camp trails. On some part, we literally had to use our hands and feet to just climb the steep stairs and the trail wasn’t a gradual one. One minute it goes straight up and the other minute it’s a steep downhill but after Kothe camp, it was gradual uphill which was good.
The Himalayas are only fully visible after we left the Kothe camp. As we were gradually going higher the mountain tops with different shapes slowly appear and the next thing you know it’s on your right/left and slowly the Mera range appears right above on the right corner. We made a pit stop at a nearby glacier lake, which was 90% frozen. Kothe was our final tea house camp place. By the time we get to Kothe, we are now pretty much walking by the mountains. I could see this frozen sharp ice on the cliffs of the mountains. Finally, upon arrival in Kothe, we could see Mera peak and the other range just above. Our guide (Lopsang Sherpa) pointed to us the glacier we were to walk on before reaching high camp. To my surprise, the tea house in Kothe was the best one out of all during the entire trek.
So we acclimatized and rested in Kothe for a day then we set about for Mera Peak base camp. Now, this is the most tricky bit in Mera. Mera base camp is only built upon request and many will say oh! why did you have to have Mera base camp or it is not necessary or you can make your way to high camp directly. A lot of the operators choose not to do this because it adds an extra day to the itinerary or is only 3 hours walk from Khare camp. But when it comes to mountain and you want to better your odds of making it to the summit and completing your trek/ expedition rather than rushing and not acclimatizing properly. So, as a company, we choose to have Mera la Base camp in our Itinerary so that our clients and group has a better chance of successfully completing the journey. Then once we rested at base camp and moved on to High camp that’s when the real test began. From this day onwards we are on our harness, ropes, crampons, and mountain climbing shoes. Perfect practice for the next day’s summit climb. From the base camp, the terrains is completely different. We started off with a steep 80 degree walk up the snowy hill and then to the blue ice glacier climbing 4 - 5 hills to Mera high camp. You are walking slowly on those ice paths all the way to the Summit. Still, a tiring walk but the place they chose for a high camp has such a great view. It looks crazily dangerous as the campsite is just on the flat base side of the cliff and a 500-600 m drop after that, somehow it’s safe to station the camp there. So, the group arrived there and we rested in our camp waiting for the big day tomorrow. We briefed our team the next day as we had to start our climb to the summit at 4 am in morning.
The next day we were all set and ready to go at 4 am. We started in the dark and sunshine was scheduled around 4:30 am-ish, so as we were making our climb on the snowy slopes we could slowly see the sun rising just behind the Himalayan ranges. What a sight, to see the colors change and the white snow slowly light up making the whole climb shinier and brighter. Shades on and we started to move up to the summit. The walk to the top was a killer one. So on the high altitudes, anyone climbing is not supposed to stay out exposed out in the cold/ wind for long. Every break we took was a quick 30s to 1 min and then off we go again. I can’t remember the number of breaks we took but I am pretty sure we take a handful of one. It took us around 4 hours to get to the summit. Just when we were to reach the summit the final climb was a 90-degree vertical ice block and at that moment in my head, I was like how am I to climb this and then our climbing leader just took us a sideways walk from and slowly side-stepping we climbed the to the summit. I was exhausted, tired but joy overfilled me with what we had achieved. The whole group was at the summit and we spoke on the radio with our team at Kothe camp. There were congratulation, hugs, laughter, and tears. This was one of the hardest things that I had done but definitely worth it. This was it all the month’s worth of planning and preparation was for this climb. All the clients were at the top which was another achievement for all the Namas adventure team.
This was definitely a great experience for me because as a founder of Namas Adventure I want to understand as much as I can of work that goes during our tour operations which gives me the perspective of how our staff is doing while on tours and expeditions, as well as understanding in what ways we can improve in our services, having a great time with people with the same interest and enjoying my passion of climbing mountains, inspiring through our work and seeking for greater adventures.
This is the story I chose and it has been an amazing learning and developing so far. The story continues ahead and our message as a company leads with inspiring human individuals to choose to live their story.
Live Your Story.
See you in future adventures and good luck with many adventures ahead. The upcoming expedition that I will be joining Baruntse Expedition, Manaslu Expedition, and Amadablam Expedition.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.