Everything you need to know about Island Peak climbing - Namas Adventure
Everything you need to know about
Island Peak 6189M climb
Planning on climbing Island Peak 6189M?
Here is everything you need to know about climbing this most popular 6000M+ peak in Nepal. Since 2016 we have been leading climbing groups to Island Peak and with our suggestions, our clients have been successfully able to enjoy while achieving their summit success.
Photo by - Brad
1) When is the best time to climb Island Peak?
For most climbers, Island Peak is best suited to climb during Spring (March-May) or Autumn (Mid-September - October) on any given year. The weather during these times in the Himalayan region and most of the places in Nepal remains stable, which is perfect for adventure activities. Spring season is chosen for most of the 8000+M expeditions in the Everest region, so you can expect trekkers’ crowd on the trails. However, once you reach your Island peak camping site, you can see the numbers dropping down drastically as the majority of the people on the trails are there for trekking.
Winter climbing is still possible, but we recommend this for individuals with a vast amount of mountaineering experiences, almost at the pro athletes’ level. Temperature is very low and weather conditions are harsh. It can be down to -25/-30 C and winds can pick up to 60mph+.
2) Are guides necessary for Island Peak?
Without the help of Sherpa guiding leaders, we do not recommend climbing in the Himalayas, unless you are a mountain guide yourself. You will have to walk through support ladders with crampons on while crossing the crevasse openings. The final climb to the summit is a 90-degree vertical climb where you will have to use ascenders to climb all the way up to the summit. Climbing a peak is not just about reaching the summit. You also need to consider the effort on descending back safely which can be equally exhausting as this requires your full focus as well. You will have to use atc or figure 8 gears to descend below from the peak.
We do collect mandatory pre-tour tips, which include summit bonus, tips to all the staff members involved in your climbing, porters, assistant guides, airport pickup/drop off drivers, and hotel helpers/securities. We fairly distribute these tips based on the type and amount of work each member has performed. Additionally, if our guests want to make extra personal tips, then they are more than welcome to do so.
3) What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Island Peak climb?
When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences. What we have found in general is that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation.
On Island Peak climbing particularly, we highly suggest taking 2 days of acclimatization at Namche Bazar and an additional 2 Days stop at Dingboche. We then make sure your itinerary has both Island Peak base camp and Island Peak high camp afterward. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gained enough strength to make your final climb.
4) What training is required to climb Island Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?
Island Peak is by no means an easy climb although we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on its technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse. We highly recommend focusing on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tools. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness. Beginner Ice climbing alone is another course that will help you with all the required skills.
Photo by jemappelleguillaume(flickr)
5) How hard is Island Peak climb?
Island peak is graded at 2B in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).
If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is hard but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude. When you finally come across the vertical wall, this will be your final challenge. On top of that, you will be walking for 4-5 hours by the time you reach at this point. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges.
6) What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Island Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Island Peak climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Island Peak
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
7) What types of foods are available during Island Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?
We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couples of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
8. How long do climbers hike or climb every day?
On usual trekking days, you will be walking for 5 - 6 hours a day covering 10km - 14 km. But on the summit day, your climb could last up to 8 - 9 hours since it is advised to go as slow as possible, using the right amount of energy for the long duration and inhaling as much air as possible.
9. Everest base camp tips
Island Peak itinerary falls right in the middle of the Everest base camp trek. That’s why we have chosen to have it on our itinerary so that climbers can visit this iconic Everest base camp and see the great Khumbu icefall, the doorway to Everest climbing. See more on our blogs about Everest base camp tips.
10. What trip insurance will I need for Island Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Photo by - fwarrenphinney
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Island Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Island Peak climb?
If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Island peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.
This itinerary takes you through the highest trekking Peak Mera 6476 M and then down to cross Amphu Lapsta pass. The route takes you down towards Barun valley where Baruntse Peak 7129 M peaks stand tall and towards Mera Peak, the highest trekking Peak in Nepal.
Island Peak with Lobuche Peak climbing
Lobuche Peak is another 6100+ M peak that is often used by Everest summit climbers as acclimatization peaks. The peak is just two camps away from Island Peak and is a great combination should you want to take upon two peaks at once.
This expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and a challenging feat on climbing on Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189M), Lobuche East (6119M).
If you want to aim higher after Island Peak towards 7000M+ peaks then Baruntse 7129 M, Himlung Himal 7126 M are some of the peaks climbing we would recommend. Just climbing Island peak won’t be enough, we suggest you climb more different technical and non-technical peaks in Europe around the alps if possible. Amadablam Expedition is another super technical and tough mountain we would like to recommend but you will have to be extremely great with your mixed climbing skills and be fit both mentally and physically.
Baruntse 7129M Expedition
Mt. Amadablam Expedition
If you are planning to climb Island Peak in any given year, we run climbing trips every year during Spring and Autumn.
Please click the link to be directed to Island Peak Expedition page.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Namas Adventure team
Mera Peak or Island Peak - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak or Island Peak
Mera Peak or Island Peak? Which 6000M peak to plan when you first want to start climbing a peak in Nepal. Which is the peak best suited for my abilities or which peak should I climb? To make your decision easier for you, we have laid out the details of each peak, which will help you decide with your 6000M peak climbing. The other option will be to combine both magnificent Mera and Island Peak climb in your itinerary.
Mera Peak 6476 M
Mera Peak 6476M, highest 6000M trekking Peak in Nepal
Non-technical climb up to 6476M. No use of ropes, ice-axe, ascender, or ladders
Beginners/novice suitable peak
Base camp and high camp strategy
Located in the Makalu Barun region of Nepal
Remote and less popular compared to Island Peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
360 Panoramic view of Nepal Himalayan range. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, and many other peaks are visible from Summit and descend to high camp.
Mera Peak is considered the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The trails break off from Lukla going in a different direction to the Makalu Barun region, which completely avoids the normal Everest trek trail usually packed by Everest base camp trekkers and climbers. So, you can expect less traffic from trekkers on Mera Peak trails. With the mountain itself is a non-technical climb, Mera peak can be a perfect mountain climbing experience for those climbers not wanting to use ropes or ascender/descender gears to climb to the summit. Simply rely on the guidance of your guide and your strength to climb the peak. Physically it can be demanding, as on your summit day you will have to ascend for 4-6 hours depending on your speed of climbing uphill. The view from the summit is awe-inspiring, as you will be able to witness a 360-degree view of the great Himalayas range. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Kanchanjhunga, and other peaks are clearly visible right in front of you during clear weather.
Island Peak 6189M
The most famous 6000M climbing peak in Nepal
Technical climb with summit approach 90 degrees ascend. Use of rope lines, ascender, figure 8 to descend, and ladders to cross the crevasse gaps.
Beginners/novice technical climbing
Base camp and high camp climbing strategy
Located in Everest trail route, in Imja valley
Remote and most popular climbing and summited 6000M peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
Narrow summit ridge and is also a perfect peak to learn technical climbing approach
Island peak shares the same trail as the Everest base camp route up to Dingboche. Island peak is the most popular and summited 6000M in the Khumbu region. Island peak is suitable for first-time beginner climbers and is a perfect mountain for climbers who wants to experience and learn technical climbing in the mountains. You will be using the steel ladders (like they use in Everest) to cross the crevasse openings and use ascenders on fixed ropes to climb onto the final steep section, a 90-degree vertical wall. When climbing you will be using ascender on the fixed ropes to climb all the way to the summit. Training will be given prior to your climbing by our Sherpa guiding team on all our climbing expeditions. Like any expedition, this peak is physically demanding and on your summit day from high camp, you will be climbing for 6 - 8 hours, depending on your speed of climbing.
Or, simply you can make it extra challenging by combing both Mera Peak and Island Peak itinerary. The beauty of this itinerary is crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass which is challenging and awe-inspiring.
Amphu Laptsa Pass 5800M
Arrival
Day 1 Kathmandu ( Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )
Day 2 Lukla / Monjo
Day 3 Monjo / Namche Bazaar
Day 4 Acclimatisation day
Day 5 Namche Bazaar / Tengboche
Day 6 Tengboche / Dingboche
Day 7 Acclimatisation
Day 8 Dingboche / Chukung
Day 9 Chukung / Island Peak base camp
Day 10 IPBC / Island peak high camp
Day 11 Ascend to Island peak summit / Chukung
Day 12 Chukung / Lobuche East Base Camp
Day 13 Lobuche High camp 5600M (5 to 6 hours)
Day 14 Summit day 6118M / High camp or Lobuche village
(1 Day Contingency Summit day, in case of bad weather to summit Lobuche east )
Day 15 Gorakshep / Everest Base Camp
Day 16 Dzongla
Day 17 Gokyo Via Cho-la-pass
Day 18 Gokyo ri trek
Day 19 Macahharmo
Day 20 Macahharmo to Doles
Day 21 Dole to Namche Bazaar
Day 22 To Lukla
Day 23 Kathmandu
Day 24 Departure
Or Another option would be Island Peak and Lobuche East peak.
Three Peak challenge (Mera, Island, and Lobuche East Peak)
We have set departures for all three peaks every year. To book your Spring or Autumn climb please email our team or head to the relevant page on our website for detailed pieces of information.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Training for Mountain climbing Expeditions - Namas Adventure
TRAINING FOR MOUNTAIN EXPEDITION
The goal of your training is to get physically and mentally prepared to successfully complete your expedition. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout our expedition. Mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. As you will be climbing in high altitudes, both your cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at different levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain. The greater your level of fitness, the more efficiently you can acclimate to the altitude. Fit climbers spend less energy on certain tasks, leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatisation.
When training you should particularly focus on two key areas of endurance building, developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart and lungs) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, agility, and balance), following specific goals and timelines.
We suggest all our interested climbers commit to at least a minimum of four-six months of training time depending on your expedition.
ENDURANCE TRAINING
Endurance fitness is considered the most important for all mountaineers. Your expedition and body will demand various levels of intensity all day throughout. Excellent cardiovascular and motor fitness is very necessary. This can be both aerobic exercises as well as muscular endurance exercises.
Long-distance slow- running is one of the best ways to build your endurance fitness level.
CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS
Cardiovascular Endurance is the ability of the heart and lungs to supply oxygen-rich blood to the working muscle tissues and the ability of the muscles to use oxygen to produce energy for movement. To get the most from your cardiovascular workouts, the ACSM suggests that you exercise three to five times a week at 60 to 90 percent of your maximum heart rate. Sessions should last more than 30 minutes, and you should choose exercises that use large muscle groups in a rhythmical fashion, such as long-distance cycling, running, swimming, or rowing. If you live near mountains hiking with 20/25kgs for 10miles once or twice a week is the best way to gain even more real-world experiences.
STRENGTH AND MUSCULAR ENDURANCE
In addition to leg strength, mountaineering requires a strong core (back and stomach) as heavy pack weights add a new dimension to climbing. Strength training principles are essentially the same for upper and lower bodies. Strength training can involve bodyweight exercises as well as routines using traditional weights. Kettlebell routines or even CrossFit training programs are helpful to build your overall body strength.
P.S. - Make sure you are working out your cores too.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Squats, lunges, and leg presses with weights 5 - 20 kgs
Push-ups, pull-ups, and military presses
Sit-ups, chin-ups, bicycle kick, leg raise, abdominal exercises, planks
Kettlebell - Lunges, Squats, overhead press
Training Plan example:
We have attached the training log of Bisesh’s when preparing for Baruntse climb and he will follow a similar time frame and routines for other 8000M+ expeditions.
Recommended Book for Mountain training: Training for the New Alpinism (Click here)
When you near your expedition date, begin making your workouts more mountaineering specific with hikes and climbs and occasional interval sessions aimed at broadening your range of comfort at various effort levels. Nothing beats the old and tested method of long hikes in uneven and steep terrains (adding weights to on your backpack) which best replicates the enviroment you are going to be in when climbing in Nepal, Pakistan or anywhere around the world.
P.S - Make sure you stretch after every long interval training. Stretching helps reduce muscular tension and increases flexibility.
Preparing yourself by committing to weekly training routines is very important. Expedition in the mountains/Himalayas requires a lot of physical, mental, and psychological toughness. This nature of activity demands athlete-level fitness. It is about putting yourself in the uncomfortable zone and pushing yourself to higher limits to see what you as a person can achieve. Mountaineering expeditions of any type should not be underestimated. The journey is a challenge in itself. It will push you out of your comfort zone and you will need to dig deeper mentally and physically. It is worth every effort and this will be your life’s greatest adventure. On a plus side, it will motivate you to lead a healthy and inspiring life.
Now you know how you have to train for mountain expeditions. Get yourself out there, enjoy your training, and stay fit and together with Namas Adventure’s team and like-minded adventurers, let’s take on your expeditions into Mera Peak, Island Peak, Aconcagua, Amadablam, or other higher mountains. Happy Adventure.
Article references
Live strong: https://www.livestrong.com/article/534286-six-components-of-fitness-related-to-motor-skills/
Very well fit: https://www.verywellfit.com/interval-training-workouts-3120774
Shape.com: https://www.shape.com/fitness/workouts/interval-training-short-workouts-really-pay
Here is a video of Chad Kellogg's training for Everest.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Equipment checklist for Mountain / Peak climbing from 4000 - 7000M
EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST FOR MOUNTAIN / PEAK CLIMBING FROM 4000 - 7000M
Photo by David Ruiz Luna ( Island Peak, Nepal )
Good solid gears are an integral part of a successful peak or mountain climbing. We have listed the absolute necessities of mountain climbing gears to help you on your journey to the summit. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by our Everest and other 6000+ expedition leaders. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear. The listed gears below are for mountain and Himalayan peak from 4000 to 7000M. Expeditions which we operate at Namas adventure ( Mera Peak, Island peak, Mount Blanc, Aconcagua ), are the recommended essential gear for extreme conditions.
Climbing Gears
Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel or similar brands)
Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
Carabineers: 3 lockings and 6 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Trekking Poles
Mountaineering boots
Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva GSM2 or equivalent
Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection (North face, Salomon, La Sportiva, or similar mountain brands )
Gaiters
Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Flip flops / Slippers
Body Layers
2 merino base layers: top/bottom set
1 mid-layer top: breathable Underwear
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore-tex and breathable
Hooded Hard Shell: Gore-tex and breathable
Hard Shell Pants: Gore-tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North face Himalayan parka or equivalent with 600-800 down fills
Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Hiking Shorts
Headgear and Handwear
Wool hat (ski hat)
Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
Under helmet Balaclava
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
Softshell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Equipment & Personal Gears
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
25L - 35LTrekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 to - 40°F. Goose down or synthetic
Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed-cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon
Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
Multisport watch with Altimeter & GPS navigation
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
Lip balm with sunblock
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
Thermos: 1 liter (buy good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
Pee bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and a small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers
Penknife or multi-tool (optional)
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
Travel Clothes
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smartphone, etc
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*
Apart from your personal clothes and shoes most of the mountain gears, sleeping bags, and mats can be rented when you are planning an expedition in Nepal, France, or Argentina.
Companies recommended
Climbing Gears - Black diamond, Petzl, Grivel
Mountaineering boots - La Sportiva, Kailas, Mammut, Scarpa
Trekking Boots - La Sportiva, Northface, Patagonia, Mammut
Body Layers - Northface, Mountain hardware, Mammut, Patagonia, Arctyrex, Marmot, Rab
Headgear and hand wear - Northface, Mountain hardware, Patagonia, Mammut
Glasses - Julbo
Other gear companies: Exped, Garmin, Goal zero, Bio lite, MSR Gears
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.