Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition strategy - Namas Adventure
Himlung Himal Summit
Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition Strategy
Himlung Himal (7126M) is one of the most accessible peaks in the Himalayas (Nepal). Located just between North of Manaslu 8163M and the Annapurna Himalayan range, Himlung is a peak for any mountaineering enthusiast looking to climb a 7000M peak that is remotely situated and provides all the aspects of challenging mountaineering adventure. As we prepare to plan for this expedition from 2021 onwards, we want to share our climbing strategy which was pioneered by Paulo Grobel along with Nepalese guides, paving expedition strategy routes (safer/enjoyable) for future climbers. If you are looking for an amazing time in the Himalayas, do join our expedition. Another amazing 7000M peak to consider is Baruntse Peak expedition.
Base Camp to Camp 1 (Co-ordinates: N 28° 45 384 E 84° 22 147)
The new base camp also called ‘French base camp’ is comfortable, with water nearby and sheltered from avalanches. The logistical challenge remains to pitch the camp as it seems a bit complex when crossing through the Pangir Glacier on big inconvenient boulders and the way up the moraine on the right bank is exposed to rockfall.
Our strategy will be to conduct 2 rotations between BC- Camp 1 and Camp 2 (weather conditions permitting) and then summit push from camp 2. Note - Camp 3 is an alternative solution but due to its risky nature, the lead guide will only strategize camp 3, if needed after assessing the situations in the mountain while on expedition.
Camp 1 6000M to Camp 2, 6200M (2X rotations target)
Access to Base Camp from Camp 1, is quite simple and very quick (2 to 3 hours) on a trekking terrain, with moraines and small valleys. The snow conditions may alter the progression, of course, but there is no slope subject to avalanches on the way up.
Himlung Himal , Camp 2, 6200M
From Camp 1 heading on to camp 2, then traverse across a perched scree slope that leads to the side of the glacier. Following the side of the glacier (crevasses and disturbed terrain, rocks, and snow) until climbers can stand up on the flatter glacier, with big steps; a few twists and turns are needed. Depending on the season and the snow conditions, this part represents the trickiest part of the ascent. We continue up on the glacier, avoiding a few crevasses. We find suitable terrains to set up our camp on the ‘Glacier Camp’. It is pleasant and vast enough to welcome several groups. It seems subject to little, if any, risk of avalanche (to be verified depending on conditions). We climb with ropes attached together on the glacier, which shows little danger of falling into crevasses.
Camp 2, 6200M - Camp 3 (Optional)
Camp 3 is only a short distance (1 hour) away from camp 2. Heading to Camp 3 from Camp 2 is a comfortable reach, we climb by continuing up on the icy escarpment up to the last place before the ridge (a few ups and downs). Camp 3 remains an option due to its risky nature of being on the ridge. Guide members will only decide after inspecting/discussing amongst themselves whether camp 3 is safe and actually required. (to be double-checked under exceptional snow conditions).
Camp 2, 6200M - Summit 7126M - Camp 2 or 1
Final ridge to Himlung Summit.
The climb is long and cannot be reduced with an additional high camp. The first part of the ascent consists of reaching the pass across snowy slopes, a little bit steep (30°) and exposed. Fixed ropes are often installed by the lead guide and once we are past that, then the slopes become less steep, with a few flat bits.
After the crevasse opening, which is generally not a problem, the slope on the side of the ridge becomes steeper. This is the steepest part of the whole climb: about 400m at 30/35°. In hard/frozen snow conditions, there is a high risk of falling, so we install fixed ropes on this part as well. The route then reaches a less steep ridge, up to a flatter section before the small final slope.
After the summit, we descend down to camp 2 or camp 1. Then the next day we head to base camp, pack all our gears and celebrate our summit success, reflect and have a more joyous night, and prepare for the next day’s journey towards Kathmandu and thus ending our trip.
If you do have any more questions or want to join our yearly spring or fall Himlung Himal expeditions then please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as we can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things. Live your story.
More route reference: Paulo Grobel
Training for Mountain climbing Expeditions - Namas Adventure
TRAINING FOR MOUNTAIN EXPEDITION
The goal of your training is to get physically and mentally prepared to successfully complete your expedition. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout our expedition. Mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. As you will be climbing in high altitudes, both your cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at different levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain. The greater your level of fitness, the more efficiently you can acclimate to the altitude. Fit climbers spend less energy on certain tasks, leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatisation.
When training you should particularly focus on two key areas of endurance building, developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart and lungs) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, agility, and balance), following specific goals and timelines.
We suggest all our interested climbers commit to at least a minimum of four-six months of training time depending on your expedition.
ENDURANCE TRAINING
Endurance fitness is considered the most important for all mountaineers. Your expedition and body will demand various levels of intensity all day throughout. Excellent cardiovascular and motor fitness is very necessary. This can be both aerobic exercises as well as muscular endurance exercises.
Long-distance slow- running is one of the best ways to build your endurance fitness level.
CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS
Cardiovascular Endurance is the ability of the heart and lungs to supply oxygen-rich blood to the working muscle tissues and the ability of the muscles to use oxygen to produce energy for movement. To get the most from your cardiovascular workouts, the ACSM suggests that you exercise three to five times a week at 60 to 90 percent of your maximum heart rate. Sessions should last more than 30 minutes, and you should choose exercises that use large muscle groups in a rhythmical fashion, such as long-distance cycling, running, swimming, or rowing. If you live near mountains hiking with 20/25kgs for 10miles once or twice a week is the best way to gain even more real-world experiences.
STRENGTH AND MUSCULAR ENDURANCE
In addition to leg strength, mountaineering requires a strong core (back and stomach) as heavy pack weights add a new dimension to climbing. Strength training principles are essentially the same for upper and lower bodies. Strength training can involve bodyweight exercises as well as routines using traditional weights. Kettlebell routines or even CrossFit training programs are helpful to build your overall body strength.
P.S. - Make sure you are working out your cores too.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Squats, lunges, and leg presses with weights 5 - 20 kgs
Push-ups, pull-ups, and military presses
Sit-ups, chin-ups, bicycle kick, leg raise, abdominal exercises, planks
Kettlebell - Lunges, Squats, overhead press
Training Plan example:
We have attached the training log of Bisesh’s when preparing for Baruntse climb and he will follow a similar time frame and routines for other 8000M+ expeditions.
Recommended Book for Mountain training: Training for the New Alpinism (Click here)
When you near your expedition date, begin making your workouts more mountaineering specific with hikes and climbs and occasional interval sessions aimed at broadening your range of comfort at various effort levels. Nothing beats the old and tested method of long hikes in uneven and steep terrains (adding weights to on your backpack) which best replicates the enviroment you are going to be in when climbing in Nepal, Pakistan or anywhere around the world.
P.S - Make sure you stretch after every long interval training. Stretching helps reduce muscular tension and increases flexibility.
Preparing yourself by committing to weekly training routines is very important. Expedition in the mountains/Himalayas requires a lot of physical, mental, and psychological toughness. This nature of activity demands athlete-level fitness. It is about putting yourself in the uncomfortable zone and pushing yourself to higher limits to see what you as a person can achieve. Mountaineering expeditions of any type should not be underestimated. The journey is a challenge in itself. It will push you out of your comfort zone and you will need to dig deeper mentally and physically. It is worth every effort and this will be your life’s greatest adventure. On a plus side, it will motivate you to lead a healthy and inspiring life.
Now you know how you have to train for mountain expeditions. Get yourself out there, enjoy your training, and stay fit and together with Namas Adventure’s team and like-minded adventurers, let’s take on your expeditions into Mera Peak, Island Peak, Aconcagua, Amadablam, or other higher mountains. Happy Adventure.
Article references
Live strong: https://www.livestrong.com/article/534286-six-components-of-fitness-related-to-motor-skills/
Very well fit: https://www.verywellfit.com/interval-training-workouts-3120774
Shape.com: https://www.shape.com/fitness/workouts/interval-training-short-workouts-really-pay
Here is a video of Chad Kellogg's training for Everest.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.