11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal - Namas Adventure
11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal
Finally, as the world is opening and countries easing restrictions, it is now time to go on those amazing mountaineering adventures. The best mountain adventure itineraries are mixed experiences of raw alpine climbing moments, giant beautiful mountains, remote environments, welcoming locals, unique cultures, newer perspectives, and adventure challenges that bring upon that realization of what’s possible for yourself. The past 2 years have been challenging to many of us and now it is finally an opportunity to reflect and venture out. In this post, we have listed 11 amazing peak climbing expeditions up to 6500M destinations that will satisfy your mountaineering needs in 2022.
POPULAR PEAKS (Beginner or Intermediate level climbers)
Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M
For any climbers wanting to start their journey of climbing in the Himalayas, we highly recommend climbing Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M in 2022. Both the peaks are semi-technical climbs in nature. Mostly mixed climbing, jummar, and abseiling are required.
This expedition will help you understand the nature and ways of climbing in the Himalayan peaks and glimpse into the culture of Nepal. Although we will be able to train and help beginner climbers during this expedition to fully enjoy your trip, we recommend climbers to have a basic mountaineering course, ice climbing, or even a climbing course. Any one of these courses will help you when climbing these 2X6000M+ peaks. Also, remember you will have to be physically fit (endurance and strength).
P.S.- we have departures in spring and autumn every year. 🙂
Mera Peak expedition moments.
If you are an absolute beginner novice climber and want to jump straight into climbing a Himalayan peak then we can vouch Mera Peak 6476M will be the right expedition for you.
Mera Peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are no technical objective dangers apart from a few small crevasses, but with guided ascents, this expedition is a perfect way to start your mountaineering journey in 2022. We provide jummar, abseil, and how to walk with crampons on training during this expedition. Lastly, the views from the summit are just out of this world. Several 8000M such as Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and several 7000ers and 6000er peaks are clearly visible on a clear weather day. You won’t forget this climb 🙂. Also, physically you will have to be fit in both endurance and strength.
1 Month getaway, peak challenge
Khumbu Three Peak Expedition
Climbers looking for month-long expeditions to spend some lengthy alpine moments exploring different 6000M peaks with different climbing challenges then, Khumbu Three peak expedition is the perfect expedition to choose in 2021. Although all the peaks are classed for beginner climbers we would recommend this to intermediate level climbers who want to build their endurance for climbing further into higher 7000M peaks. During this expedition, you will come across Baruntse 7129M, Makalu 8463M, Ama Dablam 6810M, Everest 8848M, Lhotse 8516M. So the next time you want to climb higher into 7000M or 8000M giants then this is the perfect recon expedition.
You can start either way from Mera Peak passing through Amphu Lhabtsa pass into Khumbu valley to climb Island Peak and Lobuche East or the other way around. Either way, this expedition will test your patience and make sure your endurance tank is full for this one. You are in for an amazing month-long journey.
Note - We organise Khumbu three peak expeditions every year, both during spring and autumn.
REMOTE AND FEWER CROWD EXPEDITIONS
While the Everest region dominates the number of visitors they receive each year, we highly encourage climbers to consider something different and other beautiful destinations in Nepal. There is no shortage of raw alpine moments and you can find peaks that are non-technical, semi, or super technical in nature. We believe these destinations deserve your attention and you won’t be disappointed by any of the adventures you choose in these remote parts of Nepal. So, let’s go and explore these least explored peaks and claim our summits.
Chulu West 6419M and Far East 6059M
Chulu West Peak 6419M
Chulu Peaks are situated in the heart of the Annapurna circuit region. There are 3 peaks and summits (West, Far-east, and East) in the Chulu mountain range. For anyone seeking a non-technical climb, we recommend peak Chulu Far east 6059M which is suitable for novice climbers and is pretty much a trekking peak.
Chulu West 6419M is a semi-technical climbing peak and with the assistance of our guides, beginner or intermediate level climbers will be able to successfully climb Chulu West peak. If you want to explore the beautiful Annapurna region and climb beginner-level peaks in the region then we have departures here every mid-spring and autumn. We highly recommend adding another 3 days to your expedition to visit the emerald blue 😍 Tilicho Lake 4900M.
Join us every year on this remote expedition in the beautiful Annapurna region. This region and peak certainly deserve your attention and alpine moments.
Yala Peak 5700M
Another remote destination in the Langtang region. Perfect climbing peak novice climbers who have never climbed any peaks. We recommend this amazing peak climbing expedition to anyone who wants to avoid the crowd and somewhat morden Everest region.
Langtang valley was the most affected region by the 2015’s earthquake in Nepal and ever since this region has been struggling to welcome back its visitors. The locals will thank you for choosing Langtang as your preferred destination and there is no shortage of other peak climbing objectives in this region.
Want to explore and climb Yala Peak 5700M in the Langtang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Saribung Peak 6328M
Saribung Peak in the centre with glacier hole.
Saribung Peak Climbing has is another option for anyone seeking a new peak climbing destination to climb in the remote Mustang region of Nepal close to the Nepal-Tibet border. What’s particularly interesting about this expedition is its entry in the forbidden Kingdom of Mustang which exposes climbers to newer and diverse cultures of the Nepalese Tibetan traditions. There are very few trekkers and climbers going into this region.
The peak is classed at PD grade with fitness level grade at 2 to 3 for any interested climbers. This expedition features off the beaten path trekking to base camp, semi-technical climb, old isolated villages such as Nar-Phu and from the summit on a clear summit day, giant mountains such as Nilgiri Himal (7,061 m), Himlung Himal (7,126m), Lamjung Himal (6,983m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m), and Annapurna II (7,937m).
The best time to go plan this expedition is during Spring (Mid March-May) or Early Autumn (End of August - November). Participation when taking part in these expeditions needs to be moderately fit although the peak itself is not a super touch technical climbing peak.
Want to climb the remote Saribung peak 6328 in the remote corner of the Upper Mustang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Larkya Peak, Sano (Small) Summit 5807M or Thulo (Big) Summit 6249M
Larkya Peak 6249M expedition is another hidden gem in the Manaslu circuit region. The peak is classed at PD+ mountain grade with 2 to 3 fitness grade requirements. You will need around 18 to 20 days to complete this expedition.
The trek leading up to the Larkya pass is a beautiful journey and the base camp lies close to the pass. Larkya peak expedition hosts two summits (Sano and Thulo). The climb to the Thulo or higher summit is longer hence a high camp has to be set up, which is recommended in order to acclimatize properly before proceeding higher. With the high camp set up, it is a safer way to access both the summits.
Given its location, you can be guaranteed to see the giant views of Manaslu 8163M, the Annapurnas, Ganesh Himal, and beyond.
Want to climb and double your summit at Larkya Peaks in the beautiful Manaslu circuit region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Dhampus Peak 6012M (Thapa Peak)
Dhampus Peak 6012M is also referred to as Thapa peak. This is another beautiful trek and peak expedition to climb in the Dhaulagiri circuit region. Dhampus peak is a chained prominent peak of Dhaulagiri along with Tukuche Himal to the west of Kali Gandaki valley.
This peak is also graded at PD+ mountain grade and 2 to 3 fitness level grade. When there is less snow in the peak the climb is straightforward mostly on the slopes and a few rock scrambling sections around the summit area. When there are ice and snow then it gets a bit challenging as it required mixed climbing. Although this peak is suitable for beginner-level climbers we encourage climbers to at least have a winter mountaineering course, which will give you greater confidence during your expedition.
There are two routes to reach the base camp via Dhampus pass 5240M and Kali Gandaki valley side of the mountain to a makeshift Yak heard campsite and finally crossing to Dhampus pass. Once climbers reach Dhaulagiri base camp they camp here for 1 or 2 days and then head higher to french pass to finally head to the hidden valley where the base camp is set up for Dhampus peak summit bid. Totally isolated, raw, and with fewer climbs this expedition can be one of the most rewarding expeditions to accomplish and keep in your adventure memories.
Want to explore the raw Dhaulagiri base camp and climb the totally isolated Dhampus Peak 6012M? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
TECHNICAL CLIMB (For Experienced climbers only)
Cholatse Peak 6440M
Cholaste Peak 6440M expedition is not for inexperienced or intermediate-level climbers. This expedition is considered more of alpine-style climbing. Graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grading this mountain expedition is a serious undertaking. Cholatse peak is rated as the same or above Ama Dablam 6819M when comparing the mountain difficulty levels. There are no easy routes to the summit and descend and the southwest ridge is mostly used by the expedition team.
It is one of the more prominent peaks on the approach to the Mt. Everest Base camp. South West Ridge route is considered the expedition route which involves climbing steep snow and ice pitches linking two camps to the summit. The route ascends through snow slopes leading to a crux section on the rock. The climb is mostly on glacial ice on an exposed ridge. Once past the difficult section, the climbing reaches a steep and another exposed ridgeline that plateaus onto the summit dome. There are fewer teams in Cholatse compared to the Ama Dablam expedition.
P.S- We will be organizing Cholatse Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:2 guide/client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas. We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members
Taboche (Tawoche) Peak 6501M
Climbers looking to climb other 6000M expeditions that are challenging and technical then Taboche Peak 6501M is another option. This is a very striking peak that is connected via a long ridge with the Cholatse peak. This 6500M peak is also graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grades. This expedition can be combined with the Cholatse peak expedition sharing the same base camps.
Getting up the mountain takes a lot of your energy and is only recommended to experienced skilled climbers especially those seeking technical alpine-style climbs on steep slopes, penetrating rocky pitches, and thick, dense ice. The total expedition can take around 25+ days to complete. Interested climbers should be highly skilled in ice and mixed climbing and climbing in exposed sections of high altitude.
The base camp is set up at 5200m and the following acclimatization at either Gokyo RI or Kalapatthar. Climbing up the peak is a strenuous journey with some experienced climbers taking around 10 days to complete the 1200M climb to reach the summit. This is a rocky, icy, and technically competent mountain.
P.S- We will be organizing Taboche Peak and Chotase Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas.
KYAJO RI 6186M EXPEDITION
Right in the central of Khumbu valley lies this beautiful technical peak. Kyajo Ri 6186M is graded at AD+ mountain grade with 3 to 4 fitness levels required to take on this peak. There is almost no fixed rope on the route and there are fewer unacceptable dangers when compared to Cholatse or Taboche Peak. Kyajo Ri involves steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, mixed ice and rock climbing, and crampon techniques, and ice ax arrest skills are required.
Southwest ridge is the normal and safer route accessed via the southeast col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Teams will do about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Namche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo. The summit is a sharp-edged peak with no room for many climbers at once.
There aren’t many expeditions running in this peak in any given years, at least yet, and can host a comfortable and beautiful base camp deep in the isolated section of the Khumbu region. This peak is perfect to test our tour technical climbing abilities.
Note- We will be organizing Kyajo Ri Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing high technical peaks in the Himalayas.
Conclusion
There are plenty of mountaineering objectives to take upon for your mountain climbing adventure in Nepal. This is no new news. Where ever you stand on your climbing experience and level there is plenty of inspirations and challenging mountain peaks to climb in Nepal. As always Everest region dominates with travelers every year but even with that, there are pockets of destinations that host fewer climbers like Cholatse, Taboche, or Kyajo Ri peak mountains.
Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, and Island Peak will see more climbers because of their accessibility, no of teams, and classic guided mountaineering styles. These features of the mountain make it favorable for most beginner or intermediate level climbers to take on these beautiful peaks.
Meanwhile, Chulu West or the Far East, Yala Peak, Dhampus peak, Larkya peak, Saribung peaks lie in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri zones. These areas are already isolated and there are fewer trekkers and climbers in this region. If you particularly want to be away from everyone and want to enjoy your mountain expeditions in isolated and be exposed to unique cultures and traditions then these are the 6000M expeditions we recommend for beginner or intermediate level climbers in 2022.
Question
Are you planning your next mountain expedition in Nepal? What is your preference when planning a mountain expedition in Nepal (Remote or famous peaks)? What is your experience level? Are you a novice, beginner, intermediate, or professional skill level climber? Which mountain peak do you want to climb in the Himalayas?
Our team can assist you in your dream expeditions and help you achieve your summit safely while creating lifelong memories to cherish.
Climb that mountain because it’s there.
Go. Live Your Story.
Climbers Guide: Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Climbers Guide: Lobuche East & Island Peak Expedition
Mountain Overview
Lobuche East Peak
Elevation: 6119M / 200075FT
Co-ordinates: 27.9595° N, 86.7899° E
Location: Khumbu Region
Parent Mountain: Lobuche
Summits: 1 summit and extension Lobuche West Summit
Country: Nepal
Mountain Overview
Island Peak (Imja Tse)
Elevation: 6189M / 20305FT
Co-ordinates: 43.6605° N, 70.1907° W
Location: Imja Valley
Parent Mountain: Lhotse Shar
Summits: 1 main summit
Country: Nepal
About the Mountains
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.
Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.
History
The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984.
The team who first climbed Imja Tse or Island peak comprised Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and seven other Sherpas.
How to get here?
There are two main routes to get to Lobuche East and Island Peak
Via Mera Peak and Amphu Lhabtsa pass (Three Peak Expedition)
Via Lukla
Are permits required?
Yes, permits are 100% required. Permit costs $250 USD (Spring) and $125 USD (Autumn) Per person.
Climbing Routes
Lobuche East Peak 6119M: South East ridge (PD) grade.
Island Peak 6189M Peak: South West ridge (PD) grade.
Express Itinerary
With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 20/21 days. Flying from either peaks Base camps to Lukla.
Further extensions
Mera Peak summit 6476M
+ Add Mera Peak (Three Peak Expedition)
Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip to trek through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the mountain and Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).
Baruntse 7129M Expedition
Baruntse 7129M
Baruntse Peak is a 7000er mountain peak located just between the ever famous Khumbu region and the raw Makalu region. This peak range forms a giant wall seperating the two region. Crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho to the north-west by the Imja glacier, and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. Baruntse mountain stretch has four ridges and four summits. The three main ridges are situated between the glaciers, the fourth main summit lies to the west near Cho Polu peak. More detailed informations about Baruntse Expedition in the link below
Ama Dablam 6810M Expedition
Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam climb is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
Other highlights during these expeditions
✅Tenzing Hillary ✈️Lukla Airport 2800M
Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.
✅Namche Bazzar 3375M
Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.
After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)
✅Gokyo Lake 4900M
Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary
Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri
The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)
✅Ultimate Bucket List - 🏔Everest Base Camp 5346M
The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.
Want to plan your expedition to the Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
What’s stopping you? Go. Explore more.
Live Your Story
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal
Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best expedition program for anyone seeking long mountain adventure days and a feast of Himalayan climbing experience. Climbers will summit three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Trekking through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the lifestyle in the mountains, witness Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).
Climbers pass through several beautiful villages of Khumbu and Makalu/Barun valley. Once climbers arrive at the base of each peak alpine camping beings. The expedition is suitable for anyone with beginner to intermediate skill levels. Past experience is not mandatory but climbers must have very good endurance fitness since this is a month-long expedition. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of three amazing peaks in Nepal.
Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.
Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.
After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)
Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary
Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri
The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)
The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.
Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.
Climbing and crossing the challenging Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M.
Mera High Camp 5800M
Mera high camp 5800M is one of the iconic high camps. Climbers will come across the final or beginning leg of their Khumbu Three Peak expedition. Out of all the three summits, Mera peak summit offers the most grander view of the Himalayas. Most of the 8000M+ in the Khumbu and Makalu region can be seen. On the left Cho-Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu to Kanchenjunga in the far right hand side. Chamlang another 7000M+ peak can be seen in front (slightly to right) from the summit and other Himalayan peaks are clearly visible. On a clear summit day, the view is something out of this world.
Himalayan panoramic view from Mera Peak summit 6476M.
Want to plan your expedition to the Khumbu Three Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions - Namas Adventure
Climbers pushing for Lobuche East 6119M Summit. (One of the peaks during Khumbu Three Peak Expedition)
Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions
The dream is to go higher. We are always in search of greater challenges or pushing ourselves to see what’s possible. Seeking challenges and pushing beyond has always been one of the best traits of humankind. Adventures like climbing the grand beautiful Himalayan peak are an amazing feat to undertake and require every bit of your will and determination. The outcome we get from these amazing experiences is priceless and only you can define how much do you want to push yourself.
When taking on higher and greater expeditions, we must be honest and humble enough mostly with ourselves to understand our ability and build on gaining the right experiences. Extreme high altitude expedition like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Himlung, Manaslu or the mighty Everest requires you to commit on longer duration and cold days in high altitude. (Comes with plenty of great moments each day). You as an adventurer need to understand the nature of gruesome, thin aired conditions. High altitude expeditions range from 30 to 60 days with at least 60% of your total itinerary climbing in low pressured air gasping conditions in remote high altitude locations. You need to be able to deal with it and enjoy the good suffering (that is that climbers associate it with) of your entire journey. The setbacks are inescapable, so one must learn to be patient and improvisation due to unforeseen weather forces is inevitable. How to deal with the fear and push on even when you feel like it never ends and so on.
Also, the good stuff. The base camp cheers to an appreciation of water and warm food. Being a community in the mountains, helping and motivating each other. The joy of completing each milestone and finally the summit moment. Being overpowered by the force and beauty of nature. Feeling almost non-existent yet existent with what you have accomplished. You need to build on everything, the good and the bad experiences that come with the nature of climbing high-altitude mountains if you successfully want to make it to the summit and enjoy your climb. It is within the reach of a mere mortal but building the right experience is super important.
We highly suggest undertaking Khumbu three-peak expedition or even two 6000M+ peaks like Lobuche East and Island peak or mixing any of the other 6000M+ peaks (Mera Peak). Being in the mountains for 20+ days will help you get the feel and patience needed when climbing in the Himalayas. This will help you understand how climbing in high altitude technical and non-technical section feels like. You certainly will get the feel of mountaineering but at 6000M+ level. You will encounter similar moments when taking upon further and higher expeditions, there is no escaping from this. So being mentally prepared and having that experience is key. After completing these expeditions you will be prepared to push further in future higher and more challenging expeditions.
Want to plan your Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Or even 2X6000M peak climb, Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M climbs in Nepal? We organize these peak climbing trips every year. Our team is here to assist you throughout your climb and help you successfully summit the peaks in the Himalayas. Fun times are guaranteed and you will not be disappointed. Your safety is super important to us. All our guides are IFMGA or Nepal Mountaineering association trained and certified. Rich with technical skills, Sherpa raw power, and tons of smile and humor. Having a great time when climbing is a must. Join us when you plan one or email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and we will get back to you asap.
Climb on. Push yourself. Seek adventure.
Go.
Live Your Story.
12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal
1. Which mountains does Khumbu Three Peak expedition include?
Mera Peak 6476M is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails, and of course beautiful mountains all around.
Island Peak 6189M is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The climb is suitable for beginner/intermediate level climbers. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having a difficulty rating of 2B.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is another popular 6,000+ m climbing peak in the Khumbu region. This peak is also suitable for beginner/intermediate-level climbers. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training/acclimatisation peaks before making attempting the expedition.
2. When is the best time to climb Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Khumbu three peak is best suited to climbing during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). Climbers can expect the spring season to be busier because of all major 8000M+ expeditions.
For experienced climbers, winter climb is still possible but this comes with a lot of uncertainties. i.e unstable conditions, tea houses may not be operational or even the ones operating won’t be well-stocked. Pre-arrangements will have to be made but that will also depend on the number of climbers.
3. Is it possible to shorten the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Helicopter in Nepal
Yes, the trip can be shortened, but it will incur additional costs. After reaching the summit of the final peak, the climbers will be flown via helicopter from the final base camp or village. The cost of the charter will depend on the drop-off location and the number of passengers, with prices ranging from $4000 to $4500. Our team at Namas Adventure has established relationships with reliable helicopter service providers and is able to offer flexible options. Contact us for further information.
4. How much does it cost to climb Khumbu Three Peak? What does the cost include?
At Namas Adventure, the cost of the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition is $6250 per person. Our company offers premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, so climbers can fully focus on their adventure without worrying about any logistics. With our experienced team, you can have a stress-free and enjoyable climbing holiday.
List of what’s included in your booking.
NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
40 Kgs per person
Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
5. Are guides necessary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?
To obtain a permit for climbing all three peaks, it is mandatory to work with a registered local company and hire guides. We strongly recommend that beginner to intermediate-level climbers climb with guides for their safety and to maximize their experience. This expedition lasts for 30 days, and the climb will be physically demanding, so having experienced guides is essential.
When climbing the Island Peak route, you will be required to navigate through crevasses and cross ladders, and new challenges may present themselves each climbing season. Even experienced climbers or guides who prefer to venture into new routes will still be required to have a local guide accompanying them. Thus, legally, guide assistance is mandatory for climbing these peaks.
6. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?
Mera Peak high camp 6100M
Proper acclimatization is crucial for high-altitude climbing trips and expeditions. Our team, with its years of climbing-guiding experience and a deep understanding of scientific literature, knows that the body needs sufficient time to adjust to the environment after reaching a certain elevation.
On the Khumbu Three Peak climbing trip, we prioritize acclimatization through our carefully designed itinerary, which includes climbing the Mera Peak first wich is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. This approach allows your body to adapt to altitudes above 6400M and provides you with opportunities to experience alpine camping, admire the stunning Himalayan scenery, and build up strength for your summit attempt.
Once you have successfully summited one Mera Peak, your body will have already adapted and be prepared for the challenges of the remaining 6000M peaks on the itinerary.
7. What training is required to climb the Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
The Khumbu Three Peak itinerary, although classified as a beginner to intermediate-level climb, should not be underestimated. The grading of mountains is based on both technical and physical demands. This expedition demands climbers to be in a very good physically and mentally. To ensure optimal preparation for the climb, it's recommended that climbers focus on endurance and strength training. This can include aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km to 20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 to 2 hours), and hiking with an added weight of 10 to 15 kgs. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
8. How hard is Khumbu Three Peak Expedition climb?
Lobuche East Peak summit push
The Mera Peak is rated as 1B, while Island Peak and Lobuche East Peak are rated as 2B. (Alpine grading link)
The summit climb is considered the most challenging and physically demanding part of the trip. At high altitudes, proper breathing can be a struggle, but with proper acclimatization, hydration, and nutrition, the body can adjust and recover. Once leaving the base camp, climbers will be faced with the true alpine challenge, which includes steep ascents and descents on ice and snow surfaces. Each summit day may last up to 10 or more hours of walking, climbing, and descending. The summit day usually begins early in the morning, with the goal of reaching the summit or as close to it as possible by sunrise.
To successfully complete the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, a strong endurance and physical stamina is required. All previous training, willpower, mental strength, and a passion for adventure will be put to the test during this grueling, yet rewarding journey.
9. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Khumbu Three Peak expedition (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Khumbu Three Peak climb?
Selecting the appropriate gear is essential for a successful climb. It is recommended to prioritize quality and comfort in your clothing and gear choices. Adequate layering is crucial, especially during nighttime when temperatures can drop below -10/-15°C. For our recommended clothing and gear, please consult our equipment blog.
For our Namas Adventure clients, we offer gear rental services that feature top-quality, well-maintained equipment from Kailas. Hiring gear from other local sources in Nepal is not recommended as we have found their equipment to be of subpar quality.
Investing in high-quality gear such as boots (trekking and mountaineering) is highly encouraged. With advancements in technology, climbing shoes have improved, and we suggest double-layered options such as La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa Phantom. Spending on good quality gear is a wise investment, as it can greatly impact the success and safety of your climb.
10. What types of foods are available during Khumbu Three Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?
Mineral water is readily available for purchase at most tea houses. During alpine camping, we will boil ice to produce drinking water that will be collected by our kitchen team. It's recommended that clients drink 4 to 6 liters of water daily to maintain proper hydration and acclimatization. We suggest taking hydration tablets or using a filtration bottle to ensure clean and safe drinking water.
Meals are typically prepared at the tea houses, and during climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa team. You can expect delicious food, but remember to eat enough, as at high altitudes the body may naturally resist food. Packed-dried meals are also available for those who prefer an alternative to the hot food being prepared in the tents.
It's important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the climb. While you may observe our guiding leaders smoking or drinking, they are professionals who have adapted to high-altitude environments, unlike climbers who are there for adventure holidays.
11. What trip insurance will I need for this Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
Helicopters are used for for any emergency evacuation in Nepal.
Having adequate insurance coverage is critical when embarking on a climbing expedition. Unexpected events, such as illness or altitude sickness, can occur at any time. For this reason, we strongly recommend purchasing insurance from one of our recommended providers (link).
In the event of an emergency, helicopter evacuation may be necessary. This is especially true in the Everest region where air transport is the only feasible option. Our guides will evaluate the situation and use their expertise to support and motivate you, but if a serious issue arises, helicopter evacuation will be initiated.
To initiate the evacuation process, we will contact the insurance company's emergency hotline for approval. The cost of the evacuation will need to be covered upfront but can be reimbursed upon returning home with the proper documentation, such as helicopter evacuation receipts and a doctor's certification letter.
Please note that there was a significant helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, and insurance companies are now taking extra precautions to prevent similar incidents from happening. Our guides and staff in Kathmandu will also provide a briefing on the process for emergency evacuation and the necessary steps for successful reimbursement.
12. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Upon completion of your Khumbu Three Peak expedition, if you are looking to tackle even greater heights, we can recommend other peaks in the 7000M+ to 8000M+ range for you to strive for.
Baruntse Expedition 7129M (Spring)
Himlung Himal Summit. Pic by - Elisa Rotterud. (Autumn departures)
Ama Dablam Expedition 6810M
Ama Dablam 6810M (Autumn Departures)
Manaslu Base Camp (Autumn departures)
Conclusion
The Khumbu Three Peak expedition is an incredible and once-in-a-lifetime experience. Like all mountain climbing trips, this journey is well worth the effort. We hope that the information provided will assist you in properly preparing for your adventure. If you're seeking an outstanding climbing trip and want to have a fantastic time in Nepal, we would be thrilled to have you join us. Our professional and fun-loving guides, with 5-10+ years of experience leading peak climbing trips, will ensure that you receive quality services and have a great time. Our ultimate goal is to provide the best adventure experience in the world while prioritizing your safety and success on the summit.
Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Three Peaks in the Khumbu region? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Climb - Khumbu Three Peak link
Top 5 peaks for beginner/novice climbers in Nepal, Himalayas - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak
Top 5 peaks for beginner/novice climbers in Nepal, Himalayas
Mountain climbing is one of the most amazing adventure sports. People climb mountains because of many reasons. The adventure thrill-seekers would like to challenge themselves, some climb for the excitement, but for others, the desire to reach the top of the peaks in Nepal has been growing over years. The journey through valleys, mountain ranges, and highlands is a sight to behold as it makes you realize why people spend sleepless nights and challenge themselves to the achievement of a mountain summit. Beyond the breathtaking views, there are many reasons to get motivated to climb mountains. Mountain climbing also provides an opportunity for cultural exchanges and a chance to see how people from rural areas live. Overall, mountain climbing is a fulfilling experience where you can develop friendships, gain new skills, and open up your mind to new possibilities.
If you are one of those curious challenge-seeking adventure lovers, then it’s only natural for you to question, is mountain climbing safe? I do not have any previous mountain climbing experience, can I climb and summit particular mountains? You may have trekked to high altitude places like Everest base camp, Annapurna region, or hiked around the world and you naturally want to explore higher ground? You may want to summit Everest one day or even all the highest peaks around the world but do not know where to start? Or you finally have the time and motivation to at least give mountain climbing a try or there may be thousand other inspirations.
On this blog, we want to help you by suggesting the best 5 peaks suitable for beginner/novice level or even intermediate level climbers. We promise you, there’s no shortage of awe-inspiring moments, adventure thrill and challenges in any of the suggested peaks below. The summit days will be tough but that’s the beauty of peak climbing. After-all “The best view only comes after the hardest climb”
1. Mera Peak 6476M
Summit of Mera Peak 6476M
Overview:
Altitude: 6,476M / 21,246FT
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice
Type: Non-technical/High altitude trekking style climb
Location: Makalu Barun National Park
When to climb: March-May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: F / 2-3 (Alpine/fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea house and 1-2 high camps above 5000M
What makes Mera Peak suitable for all beginner-level climbers is its non-technical climbing style. What do we mean by that? Simply put the climb does not need fixed-line ropes, ice-axes, ladders, or other alpine techniques to climb to the summit. It is a good old fashion uphill steep walk with your mountaineering boots and crampons on. You may need a little practice walking with your crampons on but once those boots are on you will soon get the hang of it. From Mera base camp to the summit you will be walking on ice and snowy surfaces. This will be the most challenging part of your entire itinerary. Mera Base camp is not included in many other operators’ itineraries but we believe it is the best approach when attempting to climb Mera Peak. This will give our climbers an extra day to rest/acclimatize at 5400M altitude. There is no point in rushing into the mountains, your body not being acclimatized properly, and having to abort your final summit push.
Mera high camp 6100M, is another highlight of this expedition. The camp is set up just in the shadow of what seems like a half-scrapped-off part of a mountain. Both Mera base and high camp expose you to alpine-style camping. Totally secluded just you, fellow climbers, and the alpine environment. (lots of snow and mountains around).
Once you start your climb from the high camp, the view of the surrounding mountain gets better and better and endless beauty. From the Summit of Mera Peak, you will have the most widest and beautiful views of the Himalayas because of its geographic positioning in the region. 8000M + peaks such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu and Kanchenjunga are visible. Other iconic peaks like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Chamlang are also seen in the distance. Like every other mountaineering adventure, the entire climb is physically and mentally challenging. But once you are at the summit it is well worth it.
Ridge climb to Summit of Island Peak 6189M
Overview:
Altitude: 6,189 M / 20,305 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-technical climb/Jummar
Location: Everest Khumbu Region/Imja Valley
When to climb: March-May or September - November
Total no of days: 20 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine /Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea Houses and Alpine camping at Island Peak BC and high camp
Island Peak 6189M, is one of the most popular peaks to climb in Nepal. Island peak climb shares an itinerary with Everest base camp and is included in the trip itinerary. Although this peak is slightly smaller than Mera Peak, the final Summit push is the final crux, an almost 90-degree vertical climb.
Island Peak, is graded as a semi-technical climb, by this we mean climbers will need to use fixed-line ropes to climb up the peak and abseil/rappel down when descending down the peak. Summit day is the hardest, as it can be very physically and mentally challenging for beginner-level climbers. There are wide crevasses along the route, so climbers will also have to use steel ladders (which will already be set up) from base camp to high camp/crampon point. This feature of the climb makes it one of the best climbing experiences to learn basics mountaineering skills and also gives climbers an understanding of the level of fitness needed when climbing bigger mountains. The summit ridge is very exposed and not many climbers can fit at a single time. Having stated that, once you are at the summit, you will be over-filled with the joy of accomplishment and the Himalayan views all around will make it a worthwhile accomplishment.
Setting eyes on Chulu West Peak 6419M in far distant.
Overview:
Altitude: 6,419M / 21,059 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-Technical/Jummar
Location: Annapurna region, Manang District
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea houses and Alpine camping to Chulu West BC and high camp
Chulu West 6419M Peak, is another 6000M+ climbing peak in the north-midwestern part of Nepal. The peak is located in the beautiful region of the Annapurna region. Trekking through one of the world’s most beautiful trekking routes, climbers set apart to Chulu base camp from Ledar village to embark on their peak climbing adventure. The peak resides on the backdrop of the great Annapurna Massif range, Himlung Himal on the northeast and further is the great Manaslu peak.
Chulu West Peak climb is a semi-technical climbing peak, making it suitable for beginner and intermediate experience level climbers. With fewer technical sections, climbers will mostly depend on their endurance and physical strength while climbing. The climb is mostly on ice and snow terrain all the way to the summit. Once on the summit, climbers are given a glimpse of the great Annapurna Massif ranges and other surrounding peaks of Mid-western Nepal. Climbing peaks in the Annapurna region can be a different experience compared to the Everest region. If you want to go even remotely and enjoy one of the world’s beautiful trails, climbing a peak in the Annapurna region is an experience on its own. Chulu West Peak is the right option to go for climbers seeking fewer crowd options.
Summit Push to Lobuche East Peak 6118M
Overview:
Altitude: 6,119M / 20,072 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-technical/Jummar
Location: Everest Khumbu Region
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 20 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine/fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea houses and Alpine camping at BC and high camp
Lobuche East 6119M Peak, is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. This peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams, as one of the training peaks before heading for Everest Expedition. The base camp is located just a day away from Everest base camp.
Lobuche East Peak is graded 2B, the same as Island Peak. Climbers will have to use assisted fixed-line ropes, descend using abseiling techniques, and should be comfortable on exposed terrain. The climb is mostly on snow, ice, and rock surfaces. The summit is narrow, exposed and Everest is visible from the summit, unlike Island Peak summit. The climb is a 60-70 degrees climb and can be somewhat challenging for beginner/novice level climbers. This can also be a perfect mountain to climb whatever your climbing goals.
5. Pisang Peak
Pisang Peak 6100M, Pic by Oleg Bartunov
Overview:
Altitude: 6,100M / 20,013 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice
Type: Semi-technical
Location: Annapurna region, Manang District
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: F\2-3 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Alpine camping to Chulu West BC
Pisang Peak sits in the Manang district, Nepal. The peak is tucked just between Annapurna I and Manaslu. This is another 6000M+ Peak in the Annapurna region suitable for beginner/novice level climbers. This peak also falls in the Annapurna circuit trail and the climb starts after the beautiful Pisang village.
Pisang Peak is graded at 1B climb but has some technical climbing feature during the summit climb. Fixed line ropes have to be used when climbing. Climbers will have to navigate through rocky, ice, and snowy surfaces. Climbers will need to have a good fitness level when climbing as other peak climbing in Nepal.
Climb - Pisang Peak (Email us for private climbing inquiry)
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.