Khumbu Three Peak Expedition vs. Annapurna Three Peak Expedition: A Comprehensive Comparison
Khumbu Three Peak vs. Annapurna Three Peak Expedition: A Comprehensive Comparison
Introduction
If you're exploring your next mountaineering adventure and want to challenge yourself with a once-in-a-lifetime adventure climbing 6,000 meters in the Himalayas, we present two exciting triple summit expeditions: the Annapurna Three Peak Expedition and the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition challenge. These expeditions stand out for their unique challenges and breathtaking landscapes, serving as a pure test of endurance and offering thrilling summit adventures amidst stunning beauty. Both involve summiting three significant peaks, providing an unparalleled experience for climbers. This article delves into a detailed comparison to help you choose the expedition that best aligns with your aspirations and capabilities.
Overview of the Expeditions
Khumbu Three Peak Expedition
Location: Khumbu (Everest), and Mera region. Eastern Nepal
Peaks Summited:
Mera Peak: 6,476 meter (21,246 feet)
Island Peak (Imja Tse): 6,189 meters (20,305 feet)
Lobuche East Peak: 6,119 meters (20,075 feet)
Duration: 30 days
Highlights: Iconic views of Everest, vibrant Sherpa culture, famous trekking routes
Annapurna Three Peak Expedition
Location: Annapurna Region, Central Nepal
Peaks Summited:
Chulu West: 6,419M meters (20,173 feet)
Pisang Peak: 6,091M meters (19,983 feet)
Chulu Far East: 6,059 meters (19,878 feet)
Duration: 29 days
Highlights: Less crowded trails, diverse ecosystems, panoramic views of the Annapurna massif
Scenery and Terrain
Annapurna Region
Annapurna II seen from Pisang village. Annapurna circuit trail.
Diverse Landscapes: From subtropical forests to alpine meadows and high-altitude deserts
Less Crowded Trails: Offers a more solitary and serene experience, unique cultural expereinces
Unique Features: Annapurna Sanctuary and massif 8000M - 7000M peaks, deep gorges, and terraced farmlands
Khumbu Region
Eveest, Lhotse Sharr seen from Everest trail.
Iconic Landscapes: Home to Everest, the world's highest peak
Busier Trails: Popular among trekkers worldwide, especially during peak seasons
Unique Features: Sagarmatha National Park, Khumbu Glacier, and the famous Everest Base Camp trail, to world highest peaks. Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu etc
If you prefer solitude and diverse ecosystems, Annapurna might appeal more. For iconic mountain vistas and bustling trails, Khumbu is ideal.
Cultural Experiences
Annapurna Region
Ethnic Communities: Gurung and Magar villages
Cultural Highlights: Traditional farming practices, local festivals, and handicrafts
Monasteries and Temples: Bragha Iconic Monastery, Muktinath Temple (Mustang)
Braga Monaster, Manag region.
Khumbu Region
Ethnic Communities: Sherpa heartland
Cultural Highlights: Visit Tengboche Monastery, experience Sherpa hospitality
Monasteries and Temples: Tengboche Monastery
Tenboche Monastery, Everest region.
The Khumbu region offers a deep dive into Sherpa culture, while Annapurna provides a blend of different ethnic experiences.
Difficulty and Technical Requirements
Annapurna Three Peak Expedition
Technical Climbing: Chulu West Peak requires moderate technical skills, including ice and rock climbing. Pisang peak requires being comfortable traversing on rocky formations
Physical Demands: High level of fitness required due to challenging terrains and higher altitudes
Preparation Needed: Prior high-altitude trekking and some climbing experience are essential
Khumbu Three Peak Expedition
Technical Climbing: Island Peak and Lobuche East require moderate technical skills; Mera Peak is less technical
Physical Demands: Demanding and must be fit for several days of climb and trek
Preparation Needed: Good physical condition and some basic climbing experience recommended
Annapurna's expedition is generally considered more challenging due to technical requirements, making it suitable for experienced climbers.
Best Time to Trek
Annapurna Region
Spring (March to May): Blooming rhododendrons, moderate temperatures
Autumn (September to November): Clear skies, ideal for mountain views
Winter: Less favorable due to harsh weather and trail conditions
Khumbu Region
Spring (March to May): Busy season, pleasant weather
Autumn (September to November): Most popular, excellent visibility
Winter: Possible but very cold; suitable for those who can endure low temperatures
Monsoon: Not recommended due to heavy rains and cloud cover
Both regions share similar optimal trekking seasons, with spring and autumn being the most favorable.
Logistics and Accessibility
Annapurna Three Peak Expedition
Starting Point: Kathmandu to Besisahar via jeep and off road to Humde
Transportation: Road transport to trailheads; fewer flights involved
Accommodation: Combination of teahouses and camping
Permits Required:
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) card
Climbing permits for each peak
Khumbu Three Peak Expedition
Starting Point: Lukla, reached by a flight from Ramechap
Transportation: Flight to Lukla; trekking from there
Accommodation: Well-established teahouses along the trail
Permits Required:
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
Climbing permits for each peak
Khumbu is more famous for most traveller. Weather can cause delays to Lukla flights. Annapurna offers more flexibility with transportation.
Cost Considerations
All inclusive cost with Namas Adventure team
Annapurna Expedition Costs: USD 6950 P/P
Khumbu Expedition Costs: USD 6950 P/P
Safety Measures
Annapurna Region
Altitude Risks: Higher peaks may increase the risk of altitude sickness
Trail Conditions: Less crowded trails mean fewer immediate assistance options
Rescue Operations: Available but may take longer than Khumbu region
Khumbu Region
Altitude Risks: Still significant but with more established acclimatization protocols
Trail Conditions: Busy trails mean help is often nearby
Rescue Operations: More efficient due to better infrastructure and frequent helicopter services
Both expeditions require comprehensive safety measures, but Khumbu benefits from better-established rescue operations.
Who Should Choose Which Expedition?
Choose Annapurna If:
You prefer less crowded trails and a more solitary experience
You're looking for a challenging expedition with higher technical demands
You're interested in diverse landscapes and ecosystems
Annapurna massif. Annapurna region.
Choose Khumbu If:
You want to experience iconic views of Everest and surrounding peaks
You're interested in Sherpa culture and well-established trekking routes
You prefer slightly less technical climbs
You require better infrastructure and amenities
Gokyo Ri. Everest region.
Your choice should align with your personal preferences, experience level, and what you seek to gain from the expedition.
Conclusion
Both the Annapurna Three Peak Expedition and the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition offer unparalleled opportunities to explore the majestic Himalayas. Your decision should be based on your experience, desired level of challenge, cultural interests, and logistical preferences. Whichever expedition you choose, you're guaranteed an adventure that will test your limits and leave you with memories to last a lifetime.
Ready to embark on your Himalayan journey?
Contact Namas Adventure to book your expedition today!
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal
Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best expedition program for anyone seeking long mountain adventure days and a feast of Himalayan climbing experience. Climbers will summit three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Trekking through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the lifestyle in the mountains, witness Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).
Climbers pass through several beautiful villages of Khumbu and Makalu/Barun valley. Once climbers arrive at the base of each peak alpine camping beings. The expedition is suitable for anyone with beginner to intermediate skill levels. Past experience is not mandatory but climbers must have very good endurance fitness since this is a month-long expedition. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of three amazing peaks in Nepal.
Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.
Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.
After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)
Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary
Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri
The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)
The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.
Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.
Climbing and crossing the challenging Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M.
Mera High Camp 5800M
Mera high camp 5800M is one of the iconic high camps. Climbers will come across the final or beginning leg of their Khumbu Three Peak expedition. Out of all the three summits, Mera peak summit offers the most grander view of the Himalayas. Most of the 8000M+ in the Khumbu and Makalu region can be seen. On the left Cho-Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu to Kanchenjunga in the far right hand side. Chamlang another 7000M+ peak can be seen in front (slightly to right) from the summit and other Himalayan peaks are clearly visible. On a clear summit day, the view is something out of this world.
Himalayan panoramic view from Mera Peak summit 6476M.
Want to plan your expedition to the Khumbu Three Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions - Namas Adventure
Climbers pushing for Lobuche East 6119M Summit. (One of the peaks during Khumbu Three Peak Expedition)
Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions
The dream is to go higher. We are always in search of greater challenges or pushing ourselves to see what’s possible. Seeking challenges and pushing beyond has always been one of the best traits of humankind. Adventures like climbing the grand beautiful Himalayan peak are an amazing feat to undertake and require every bit of your will and determination. The outcome we get from these amazing experiences is priceless and only you can define how much do you want to push yourself.
When taking on higher and greater expeditions, we must be honest and humble enough mostly with ourselves to understand our ability and build on gaining the right experiences. Extreme high altitude expedition like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Himlung, Manaslu or the mighty Everest requires you to commit on longer duration and cold days in high altitude. (Comes with plenty of great moments each day). You as an adventurer need to understand the nature of gruesome, thin aired conditions. High altitude expeditions range from 30 to 60 days with at least 60% of your total itinerary climbing in low pressured air gasping conditions in remote high altitude locations. You need to be able to deal with it and enjoy the good suffering (that is that climbers associate it with) of your entire journey. The setbacks are inescapable, so one must learn to be patient and improvisation due to unforeseen weather forces is inevitable. How to deal with the fear and push on even when you feel like it never ends and so on.
Also, the good stuff. The base camp cheers to an appreciation of water and warm food. Being a community in the mountains, helping and motivating each other. The joy of completing each milestone and finally the summit moment. Being overpowered by the force and beauty of nature. Feeling almost non-existent yet existent with what you have accomplished. You need to build on everything, the good and the bad experiences that come with the nature of climbing high-altitude mountains if you successfully want to make it to the summit and enjoy your climb. It is within the reach of a mere mortal but building the right experience is super important.
We highly suggest undertaking Khumbu three-peak expedition or even two 6000M+ peaks like Lobuche East and Island peak or mixing any of the other 6000M+ peaks (Mera Peak). Being in the mountains for 20+ days will help you get the feel and patience needed when climbing in the Himalayas. This will help you understand how climbing in high altitude technical and non-technical section feels like. You certainly will get the feel of mountaineering but at 6000M+ level. You will encounter similar moments when taking upon further and higher expeditions, there is no escaping from this. So being mentally prepared and having that experience is key. After completing these expeditions you will be prepared to push further in future higher and more challenging expeditions.
Want to plan your Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Or even 2X6000M peak climb, Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M climbs in Nepal? We organize these peak climbing trips every year. Our team is here to assist you throughout your climb and help you successfully summit the peaks in the Himalayas. Fun times are guaranteed and you will not be disappointed. Your safety is super important to us. All our guides are IFMGA or Nepal Mountaineering association trained and certified. Rich with technical skills, Sherpa raw power, and tons of smile and humor. Having a great time when climbing is a must. Join us when you plan one or email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and we will get back to you asap.
Climb on. Push yourself. Seek adventure.
Go.
Live Your Story.
12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal
1. Which mountains does Khumbu Three Peak expedition include?
Mera Peak 6476M is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails, and of course beautiful mountains all around.
Island Peak 6189M is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The climb is suitable for beginner/intermediate level climbers. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having a difficulty rating of 2B.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is another popular 6,000+ m climbing peak in the Khumbu region. This peak is also suitable for beginner/intermediate-level climbers. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training/acclimatisation peaks before making attempting the expedition.
2. When is the best time to climb Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Khumbu three peak is best suited to climbing during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). Climbers can expect the spring season to be busier because of all major 8000M+ expeditions.
For experienced climbers, winter climb is still possible but this comes with a lot of uncertainties. i.e unstable conditions, tea houses may not be operational or even the ones operating won’t be well-stocked. Pre-arrangements will have to be made but that will also depend on the number of climbers.
3. Is it possible to shorten the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Helicopter in Nepal
Yes, the trip can be shortened, but it will incur additional costs. After reaching the summit of the final peak, the climbers will be flown via helicopter from the final base camp or village. The cost of the charter will depend on the drop-off location and the number of passengers, with prices ranging from $4000 to $4500. Our team at Namas Adventure has established relationships with reliable helicopter service providers and is able to offer flexible options. Contact us for further information.
4. How much does it cost to climb Khumbu Three Peak? What does the cost include?
At Namas Adventure, the cost of the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition is $6250 per person. Our company offers premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, so climbers can fully focus on their adventure without worrying about any logistics. With our experienced team, you can have a stress-free and enjoyable climbing holiday.
List of what’s included in your booking.
NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
40 Kgs per person
Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
5. Are guides necessary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?
To obtain a permit for climbing all three peaks, it is mandatory to work with a registered local company and hire guides. We strongly recommend that beginner to intermediate-level climbers climb with guides for their safety and to maximize their experience. This expedition lasts for 30 days, and the climb will be physically demanding, so having experienced guides is essential.
When climbing the Island Peak route, you will be required to navigate through crevasses and cross ladders, and new challenges may present themselves each climbing season. Even experienced climbers or guides who prefer to venture into new routes will still be required to have a local guide accompanying them. Thus, legally, guide assistance is mandatory for climbing these peaks.
6. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?
Mera Peak high camp 6100M
Proper acclimatization is crucial for high-altitude climbing trips and expeditions. Our team, with its years of climbing-guiding experience and a deep understanding of scientific literature, knows that the body needs sufficient time to adjust to the environment after reaching a certain elevation.
On the Khumbu Three Peak climbing trip, we prioritize acclimatization through our carefully designed itinerary, which includes climbing the Mera Peak first wich is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. This approach allows your body to adapt to altitudes above 6400M and provides you with opportunities to experience alpine camping, admire the stunning Himalayan scenery, and build up strength for your summit attempt.
Once you have successfully summited one Mera Peak, your body will have already adapted and be prepared for the challenges of the remaining 6000M peaks on the itinerary.
7. What training is required to climb the Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
The Khumbu Three Peak itinerary, although classified as a beginner to intermediate-level climb, should not be underestimated. The grading of mountains is based on both technical and physical demands. This expedition demands climbers to be in a very good physically and mentally. To ensure optimal preparation for the climb, it's recommended that climbers focus on endurance and strength training. This can include aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km to 20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 to 2 hours), and hiking with an added weight of 10 to 15 kgs. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
8. How hard is Khumbu Three Peak Expedition climb?
Lobuche East Peak summit push
The Mera Peak is rated as 1B, while Island Peak and Lobuche East Peak are rated as 2B. (Alpine grading link)
The summit climb is considered the most challenging and physically demanding part of the trip. At high altitudes, proper breathing can be a struggle, but with proper acclimatization, hydration, and nutrition, the body can adjust and recover. Once leaving the base camp, climbers will be faced with the true alpine challenge, which includes steep ascents and descents on ice and snow surfaces. Each summit day may last up to 10 or more hours of walking, climbing, and descending. The summit day usually begins early in the morning, with the goal of reaching the summit or as close to it as possible by sunrise.
To successfully complete the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, a strong endurance and physical stamina is required. All previous training, willpower, mental strength, and a passion for adventure will be put to the test during this grueling, yet rewarding journey.
9. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Khumbu Three Peak expedition (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Khumbu Three Peak climb?
Selecting the appropriate gear is essential for a successful climb. It is recommended to prioritize quality and comfort in your clothing and gear choices. Adequate layering is crucial, especially during nighttime when temperatures can drop below -10/-15°C. For our recommended clothing and gear, please consult our equipment blog.
For our Namas Adventure clients, we offer gear rental services that feature top-quality, well-maintained equipment from Kailas. Hiring gear from other local sources in Nepal is not recommended as we have found their equipment to be of subpar quality.
Investing in high-quality gear such as boots (trekking and mountaineering) is highly encouraged. With advancements in technology, climbing shoes have improved, and we suggest double-layered options such as La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa Phantom. Spending on good quality gear is a wise investment, as it can greatly impact the success and safety of your climb.
10. What types of foods are available during Khumbu Three Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?
Mineral water is readily available for purchase at most tea houses. During alpine camping, we will boil ice to produce drinking water that will be collected by our kitchen team. It's recommended that clients drink 4 to 6 liters of water daily to maintain proper hydration and acclimatization. We suggest taking hydration tablets or using a filtration bottle to ensure clean and safe drinking water.
Meals are typically prepared at the tea houses, and during climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa team. You can expect delicious food, but remember to eat enough, as at high altitudes the body may naturally resist food. Packed-dried meals are also available for those who prefer an alternative to the hot food being prepared in the tents.
It's important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the climb. While you may observe our guiding leaders smoking or drinking, they are professionals who have adapted to high-altitude environments, unlike climbers who are there for adventure holidays.
11. What trip insurance will I need for this Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
Helicopters are used for for any emergency evacuation in Nepal.
Having adequate insurance coverage is critical when embarking on a climbing expedition. Unexpected events, such as illness or altitude sickness, can occur at any time. For this reason, we strongly recommend purchasing insurance from one of our recommended providers (link).
In the event of an emergency, helicopter evacuation may be necessary. This is especially true in the Everest region where air transport is the only feasible option. Our guides will evaluate the situation and use their expertise to support and motivate you, but if a serious issue arises, helicopter evacuation will be initiated.
To initiate the evacuation process, we will contact the insurance company's emergency hotline for approval. The cost of the evacuation will need to be covered upfront but can be reimbursed upon returning home with the proper documentation, such as helicopter evacuation receipts and a doctor's certification letter.
Please note that there was a significant helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, and insurance companies are now taking extra precautions to prevent similar incidents from happening. Our guides and staff in Kathmandu will also provide a briefing on the process for emergency evacuation and the necessary steps for successful reimbursement.
12. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Upon completion of your Khumbu Three Peak expedition, if you are looking to tackle even greater heights, we can recommend other peaks in the 7000M+ to 8000M+ range for you to strive for.
Baruntse Expedition 7129M (Spring)
Himlung Himal Summit. Pic by - Elisa Rotterud. (Autumn departures)
Ama Dablam Expedition 6810M
Ama Dablam 6810M (Autumn Departures)
Manaslu Base Camp (Autumn departures)
Conclusion
The Khumbu Three Peak expedition is an incredible and once-in-a-lifetime experience. Like all mountain climbing trips, this journey is well worth the effort. We hope that the information provided will assist you in properly preparing for your adventure. If you're seeking an outstanding climbing trip and want to have a fantastic time in Nepal, we would be thrilled to have you join us. Our professional and fun-loving guides, with 5-10+ years of experience leading peak climbing trips, will ensure that you receive quality services and have a great time. Our ultimate goal is to provide the best adventure experience in the world while prioritizing your safety and success on the summit.
Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Three Peaks in the Khumbu region? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Climb - Khumbu Three Peak link
Everything you need to know about Island Peak climbing - Namas Adventure
Everything you need to know about
Island Peak 6189M climb
Planning on climbing Island Peak 6189M?
Here is everything you need to know about climbing this most popular 6000M+ peak in Nepal. Since 2016 we have been leading climbing groups to Island Peak and with our suggestions, our clients have been successfully able to enjoy while achieving their summit success.
Photo by - Brad
1) When is the best time to climb Island Peak?
For most climbers, Island Peak is best suited to climb during Spring (March-May) or Autumn (Mid-September - October) on any given year. The weather during these times in the Himalayan region and most of the places in Nepal remains stable, which is perfect for adventure activities. Spring season is chosen for most of the 8000+M expeditions in the Everest region, so you can expect trekkers’ crowd on the trails. However, once you reach your Island peak camping site, you can see the numbers dropping down drastically as the majority of the people on the trails are there for trekking.
Winter climbing is still possible, but we recommend this for individuals with a vast amount of mountaineering experiences, almost at the pro athletes’ level. Temperature is very low and weather conditions are harsh. It can be down to -25/-30 C and winds can pick up to 60mph+.
2) Are guides necessary for Island Peak?
Without the help of Sherpa guiding leaders, we do not recommend climbing in the Himalayas, unless you are a mountain guide yourself. You will have to walk through support ladders with crampons on while crossing the crevasse openings. The final climb to the summit is a 90-degree vertical climb where you will have to use ascenders to climb all the way up to the summit. Climbing a peak is not just about reaching the summit. You also need to consider the effort on descending back safely which can be equally exhausting as this requires your full focus as well. You will have to use atc or figure 8 gears to descend below from the peak.
We do collect mandatory pre-tour tips, which include summit bonus, tips to all the staff members involved in your climbing, porters, assistant guides, airport pickup/drop off drivers, and hotel helpers/securities. We fairly distribute these tips based on the type and amount of work each member has performed. Additionally, if our guests want to make extra personal tips, then they are more than welcome to do so.
3) What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Island Peak climb?
When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences. What we have found in general is that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation.
On Island Peak climbing particularly, we highly suggest taking 2 days of acclimatization at Namche Bazar and an additional 2 Days stop at Dingboche. We then make sure your itinerary has both Island Peak base camp and Island Peak high camp afterward. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gained enough strength to make your final climb.
4) What training is required to climb Island Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?
Island Peak is by no means an easy climb although we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on its technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse. We highly recommend focusing on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tools. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness. Beginner Ice climbing alone is another course that will help you with all the required skills.
Photo by jemappelleguillaume(flickr)
5) How hard is Island Peak climb?
Island peak is graded at 2B in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).
If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is hard but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude. When you finally come across the vertical wall, this will be your final challenge. On top of that, you will be walking for 4-5 hours by the time you reach at this point. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges.
6) What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Island Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Island Peak climb?
Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.
Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)
Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Island Peak
With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.
7) What types of foods are available during Island Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?
We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.
Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couples of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.
Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.
8. How long do climbers hike or climb every day?
On usual trekking days, you will be walking for 5 - 6 hours a day covering 10km - 14 km. But on the summit day, your climb could last up to 8 - 9 hours since it is advised to go as slow as possible, using the right amount of energy for the long duration and inhaling as much air as possible.
9. Everest base camp tips
Island Peak itinerary falls right in the middle of the Everest base camp trek. That’s why we have chosen to have it on our itinerary so that climbers can visit this iconic Everest base camp and see the great Khumbu icefall, the doorway to Everest climbing. See more on our blogs about Everest base camp tips.
10. What trip insurance will I need for Island Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)
Photo by - fwarrenphinney
Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.
There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.
11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Island Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Island Peak climb?
If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Island peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.
This itinerary takes you through the highest trekking Peak Mera 6476 M and then down to cross Amphu Lapsta pass. The route takes you down towards Barun valley where Baruntse Peak 7129 M peaks stand tall and towards Mera Peak, the highest trekking Peak in Nepal.
Island Peak with Lobuche Peak climbing
Lobuche Peak is another 6100+ M peak that is often used by Everest summit climbers as acclimatization peaks. The peak is just two camps away from Island Peak and is a great combination should you want to take upon two peaks at once.
This expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and a challenging feat on climbing on Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189M), Lobuche East (6119M).
If you want to aim higher after Island Peak towards 7000M+ peaks then Baruntse 7129 M, Himlung Himal 7126 M are some of the peaks climbing we would recommend. Just climbing Island peak won’t be enough, we suggest you climb more different technical and non-technical peaks in Europe around the alps if possible. Amadablam Expedition is another super technical and tough mountain we would like to recommend but you will have to be extremely great with your mixed climbing skills and be fit both mentally and physically.
Baruntse 7129M Expedition
Mt. Amadablam Expedition
If you are planning to climb Island Peak in any given year, we run climbing trips every year during Spring and Autumn.
Please click the link to be directed to Island Peak Expedition page.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Namas Adventure team