Ascending to new heights: A beginner and intermediate's guide to climbing 6000 meter peaks in Nepal during spring season - Namas Adventure
Ascending to new heights: A beginner and intermediate's guide to climbing 6000-meter peaks in Nepal during the spring season
Climbing the giants of the Nepalese Himalayas is a dream for many adventurous souls. With elevations reaching up to 8,000 meters, these peaks are not only challenging but also require proper planning and preparation. However, climbing peaks of around 6,000 meters can also be a rewarding experience for beginners and intermediates alike, especially during the spring season in Nepal.
Spring, from March to May, is considered the best time to climb these peaks as the weather is great, and the snow is firm enough for climbing. The period also offers clear views and friendly trekkers along the trails.
In this guide, we will look at some of the best beginner and intermediate 6000-meter peaks to climb in Nepal during the spring season.
Island Peak (6,189 meters)
Also known as Imja Tse, Island peak is a popular climbing peak. It is considered one of the easiest 6000-meter peaks to climb, with a moderate level of technical difficulty. The peak is located in the Khumbu region and can be reached via the famous Everest Base Camp trek.
The climb is relatively straightforward, and the summit provides a panoramic view of the surrounding peaks such as Lhotse Sharr and Ama Dablam.
Mera Peak (6,476 meters)
Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, located in the Makalu region. The peak is a perfect choice for beginner-level climbers who want to experience the thrill of climbing in a remote area. The climb is challenging, with steep sections of ice and snow, but the summit provides a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.
Lobuche East (6,119 meters)
Lobuche East is a popular peak located in the Khumbu region. It is considered a moderate climb with a relatively straightforward route. The peak offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. The peak can be reached via the Gokyo and Everest Base Camp trek
How about combining and making your expeditions even more challenging? Explore our combo itineraries
Chulu West Peak (6,419 meters)
Chulu West peak is an exhilarating 6000-meter-plus climbing peak in the mid-western part of Nepal. This peak is less frequently visited and attracts fewer climbers. Climbers embark on their peak climbing adventure by setting out to Chulu base camp from Ledar village, passing through one of the world's most beautiful trekking routes. The peak sits against the stunning backdrop of the Annapurna massif range, with the Himlung Himal to the northeast and the majestic Manaslu peak in the distance.
Chulu Far East (6,019 meters)
Chulu Far East peak is a high-altitude trekking peak in the Annapurna circuit region. A non-technical and straightforward climb, making it accessible to those without previous technical climbing experience. However, the steep terrain and scree slopes encountered during the approach can make the climb more challenging. It is very similar to Mera Peak expedition.
The Chulu Far East Peak climb itinerary offers climbers the opportunity to witness the stunning natural beauty of the Annapurna region. The summit provides panoramic views of Annapurna II, III & IV, Gangapurna, Manaslu 8163M, Pisang Peak, Chulu West Peak, and Dhaulagiri, as well as the plains of Tibet to the north. You can also further extend your trip to visit the emerald Tilicho lake 4900M and cross the Thorong-la-pass to enter into the forbidden Kingdom of Upper Mustang.
Yala Peak (5732 meters)
Yala Peak, standing at 5732 meters, is a part of the Langtang Lirun Himal range and is situated in close proximity to the Tibetan border. The peak offers a non-technical climb, making it an ideal terrain for novice climbers to gain experience and explore the world of mountaineering.
The base camp for the expedition is located at an altitude of 4500 meters and offers spectacular views of nearby peaks such as Langtang Lirung, Lenpo Gang, Dorje Lakpa, and the majestic Sishapangma on the Tibetan side.
In conclusion, climbing 6000-meter peaks in Nepal during the spring season is a fantastic way to experience the thrill of climbing in the Himalayas. The peaks we listed above offer a challenging yet manageable climb for beginners and intermediates alike, with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes and mountain peaks. It is important to take note that climbing any peak in the Himalayas should not be taken lightly and having a knowledgeable guide and proper gear is crucial. Always make sure to acclimatize properly, have fun, pay attention to the guide’s instructions, and have an amazing experience of climbing in the Himalayas.
Are you interested in visiting Nepal during the spring season and climbing your first 6000-meter peak in the Himalayas? Our friendly and experienced team is here to help make that dream a reality. Who knows, after your first climb, you may be inspired to tackle even more challenging peaks like Everest. Let's make it happen together!
“Do or Do not, there is no try” - YODA
Namas Adventure Team
11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal - Namas Adventure
11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal
Finally, as the world is opening and countries easing restrictions, it is now time to go on those amazing mountaineering adventures. The best mountain adventure itineraries are mixed experiences of raw alpine climbing moments, giant beautiful mountains, remote environments, welcoming locals, unique cultures, newer perspectives, and adventure challenges that bring upon that realization of what’s possible for yourself. The past 2 years have been challenging to many of us and now it is finally an opportunity to reflect and venture out. In this post, we have listed 11 amazing peak climbing expeditions up to 6500M destinations that will satisfy your mountaineering needs in 2022.
POPULAR PEAKS (Beginner or Intermediate level climbers)
Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M
For any climbers wanting to start their journey of climbing in the Himalayas, we highly recommend climbing Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M in 2022. Both the peaks are semi-technical climbs in nature. Mostly mixed climbing, jummar, and abseiling are required.
This expedition will help you understand the nature and ways of climbing in the Himalayan peaks and glimpse into the culture of Nepal. Although we will be able to train and help beginner climbers during this expedition to fully enjoy your trip, we recommend climbers to have a basic mountaineering course, ice climbing, or even a climbing course. Any one of these courses will help you when climbing these 2X6000M+ peaks. Also, remember you will have to be physically fit (endurance and strength).
P.S.- we have departures in spring and autumn every year. 🙂
Mera Peak expedition moments.
If you are an absolute beginner novice climber and want to jump straight into climbing a Himalayan peak then we can vouch Mera Peak 6476M will be the right expedition for you.
Mera Peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are no technical objective dangers apart from a few small crevasses, but with guided ascents, this expedition is a perfect way to start your mountaineering journey in 2022. We provide jummar, abseil, and how to walk with crampons on training during this expedition. Lastly, the views from the summit are just out of this world. Several 8000M such as Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and several 7000ers and 6000er peaks are clearly visible on a clear weather day. You won’t forget this climb 🙂. Also, physically you will have to be fit in both endurance and strength.
1 Month getaway, peak challenge
Khumbu Three Peak Expedition
Climbers looking for month-long expeditions to spend some lengthy alpine moments exploring different 6000M peaks with different climbing challenges then, Khumbu Three peak expedition is the perfect expedition to choose in 2021. Although all the peaks are classed for beginner climbers we would recommend this to intermediate level climbers who want to build their endurance for climbing further into higher 7000M peaks. During this expedition, you will come across Baruntse 7129M, Makalu 8463M, Ama Dablam 6810M, Everest 8848M, Lhotse 8516M. So the next time you want to climb higher into 7000M or 8000M giants then this is the perfect recon expedition.
You can start either way from Mera Peak passing through Amphu Lhabtsa pass into Khumbu valley to climb Island Peak and Lobuche East or the other way around. Either way, this expedition will test your patience and make sure your endurance tank is full for this one. You are in for an amazing month-long journey.
Note - We organise Khumbu three peak expeditions every year, both during spring and autumn.
REMOTE AND FEWER CROWD EXPEDITIONS
While the Everest region dominates the number of visitors they receive each year, we highly encourage climbers to consider something different and other beautiful destinations in Nepal. There is no shortage of raw alpine moments and you can find peaks that are non-technical, semi, or super technical in nature. We believe these destinations deserve your attention and you won’t be disappointed by any of the adventures you choose in these remote parts of Nepal. So, let’s go and explore these least explored peaks and claim our summits.
Chulu West 6419M and Far East 6059M
Chulu West Peak 6419M
Chulu Peaks are situated in the heart of the Annapurna circuit region. There are 3 peaks and summits (West, Far-east, and East) in the Chulu mountain range. For anyone seeking a non-technical climb, we recommend peak Chulu Far east 6059M which is suitable for novice climbers and is pretty much a trekking peak.
Chulu West 6419M is a semi-technical climbing peak and with the assistance of our guides, beginner or intermediate level climbers will be able to successfully climb Chulu West peak. If you want to explore the beautiful Annapurna region and climb beginner-level peaks in the region then we have departures here every mid-spring and autumn. We highly recommend adding another 3 days to your expedition to visit the emerald blue 😍 Tilicho Lake 4900M.
Join us every year on this remote expedition in the beautiful Annapurna region. This region and peak certainly deserve your attention and alpine moments.
Yala Peak 5700M
Another remote destination in the Langtang region. Perfect climbing peak novice climbers who have never climbed any peaks. We recommend this amazing peak climbing expedition to anyone who wants to avoid the crowd and somewhat morden Everest region.
Langtang valley was the most affected region by the 2015’s earthquake in Nepal and ever since this region has been struggling to welcome back its visitors. The locals will thank you for choosing Langtang as your preferred destination and there is no shortage of other peak climbing objectives in this region.
Want to explore and climb Yala Peak 5700M in the Langtang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Saribung Peak 6328M
Saribung Peak in the centre with glacier hole.
Saribung Peak Climbing has is another option for anyone seeking a new peak climbing destination to climb in the remote Mustang region of Nepal close to the Nepal-Tibet border. What’s particularly interesting about this expedition is its entry in the forbidden Kingdom of Mustang which exposes climbers to newer and diverse cultures of the Nepalese Tibetan traditions. There are very few trekkers and climbers going into this region.
The peak is classed at PD grade with fitness level grade at 2 to 3 for any interested climbers. This expedition features off the beaten path trekking to base camp, semi-technical climb, old isolated villages such as Nar-Phu and from the summit on a clear summit day, giant mountains such as Nilgiri Himal (7,061 m), Himlung Himal (7,126m), Lamjung Himal (6,983m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m), and Annapurna II (7,937m).
The best time to go plan this expedition is during Spring (Mid March-May) or Early Autumn (End of August - November). Participation when taking part in these expeditions needs to be moderately fit although the peak itself is not a super touch technical climbing peak.
Want to climb the remote Saribung peak 6328 in the remote corner of the Upper Mustang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Larkya Peak, Sano (Small) Summit 5807M or Thulo (Big) Summit 6249M
Larkya Peak 6249M expedition is another hidden gem in the Manaslu circuit region. The peak is classed at PD+ mountain grade with 2 to 3 fitness grade requirements. You will need around 18 to 20 days to complete this expedition.
The trek leading up to the Larkya pass is a beautiful journey and the base camp lies close to the pass. Larkya peak expedition hosts two summits (Sano and Thulo). The climb to the Thulo or higher summit is longer hence a high camp has to be set up, which is recommended in order to acclimatize properly before proceeding higher. With the high camp set up, it is a safer way to access both the summits.
Given its location, you can be guaranteed to see the giant views of Manaslu 8163M, the Annapurnas, Ganesh Himal, and beyond.
Want to climb and double your summit at Larkya Peaks in the beautiful Manaslu circuit region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
Dhampus Peak 6012M (Thapa Peak)
Dhampus Peak 6012M is also referred to as Thapa peak. This is another beautiful trek and peak expedition to climb in the Dhaulagiri circuit region. Dhampus peak is a chained prominent peak of Dhaulagiri along with Tukuche Himal to the west of Kali Gandaki valley.
This peak is also graded at PD+ mountain grade and 2 to 3 fitness level grade. When there is less snow in the peak the climb is straightforward mostly on the slopes and a few rock scrambling sections around the summit area. When there are ice and snow then it gets a bit challenging as it required mixed climbing. Although this peak is suitable for beginner-level climbers we encourage climbers to at least have a winter mountaineering course, which will give you greater confidence during your expedition.
There are two routes to reach the base camp via Dhampus pass 5240M and Kali Gandaki valley side of the mountain to a makeshift Yak heard campsite and finally crossing to Dhampus pass. Once climbers reach Dhaulagiri base camp they camp here for 1 or 2 days and then head higher to french pass to finally head to the hidden valley where the base camp is set up for Dhampus peak summit bid. Totally isolated, raw, and with fewer climbs this expedition can be one of the most rewarding expeditions to accomplish and keep in your adventure memories.
Want to explore the raw Dhaulagiri base camp and climb the totally isolated Dhampus Peak 6012M? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.
TECHNICAL CLIMB (For Experienced climbers only)
Cholatse Peak 6440M
Cholaste Peak 6440M expedition is not for inexperienced or intermediate-level climbers. This expedition is considered more of alpine-style climbing. Graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grading this mountain expedition is a serious undertaking. Cholatse peak is rated as the same or above Ama Dablam 6819M when comparing the mountain difficulty levels. There are no easy routes to the summit and descend and the southwest ridge is mostly used by the expedition team.
It is one of the more prominent peaks on the approach to the Mt. Everest Base camp. South West Ridge route is considered the expedition route which involves climbing steep snow and ice pitches linking two camps to the summit. The route ascends through snow slopes leading to a crux section on the rock. The climb is mostly on glacial ice on an exposed ridge. Once past the difficult section, the climbing reaches a steep and another exposed ridgeline that plateaus onto the summit dome. There are fewer teams in Cholatse compared to the Ama Dablam expedition.
P.S- We will be organizing Cholatse Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:2 guide/client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas. We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members
Taboche (Tawoche) Peak 6501M
Climbers looking to climb other 6000M expeditions that are challenging and technical then Taboche Peak 6501M is another option. This is a very striking peak that is connected via a long ridge with the Cholatse peak. This 6500M peak is also graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grades. This expedition can be combined with the Cholatse peak expedition sharing the same base camps.
Getting up the mountain takes a lot of your energy and is only recommended to experienced skilled climbers especially those seeking technical alpine-style climbs on steep slopes, penetrating rocky pitches, and thick, dense ice. The total expedition can take around 25+ days to complete. Interested climbers should be highly skilled in ice and mixed climbing and climbing in exposed sections of high altitude.
The base camp is set up at 5200m and the following acclimatization at either Gokyo RI or Kalapatthar. Climbing up the peak is a strenuous journey with some experienced climbers taking around 10 days to complete the 1200M climb to reach the summit. This is a rocky, icy, and technically competent mountain.
P.S- We will be organizing Taboche Peak and Chotase Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas.
KYAJO RI 6186M EXPEDITION
Right in the central of Khumbu valley lies this beautiful technical peak. Kyajo Ri 6186M is graded at AD+ mountain grade with 3 to 4 fitness levels required to take on this peak. There is almost no fixed rope on the route and there are fewer unacceptable dangers when compared to Cholatse or Taboche Peak. Kyajo Ri involves steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, mixed ice and rock climbing, and crampon techniques, and ice ax arrest skills are required.
Southwest ridge is the normal and safer route accessed via the southeast col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Teams will do about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Namche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo. The summit is a sharp-edged peak with no room for many climbers at once.
There aren’t many expeditions running in this peak in any given years, at least yet, and can host a comfortable and beautiful base camp deep in the isolated section of the Khumbu region. This peak is perfect to test our tour technical climbing abilities.
Note- We will be organizing Kyajo Ri Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing high technical peaks in the Himalayas.
Conclusion
There are plenty of mountaineering objectives to take upon for your mountain climbing adventure in Nepal. This is no new news. Where ever you stand on your climbing experience and level there is plenty of inspirations and challenging mountain peaks to climb in Nepal. As always Everest region dominates with travelers every year but even with that, there are pockets of destinations that host fewer climbers like Cholatse, Taboche, or Kyajo Ri peak mountains.
Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, and Island Peak will see more climbers because of their accessibility, no of teams, and classic guided mountaineering styles. These features of the mountain make it favorable for most beginner or intermediate level climbers to take on these beautiful peaks.
Meanwhile, Chulu West or the Far East, Yala Peak, Dhampus peak, Larkya peak, Saribung peaks lie in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri zones. These areas are already isolated and there are fewer trekkers and climbers in this region. If you particularly want to be away from everyone and want to enjoy your mountain expeditions in isolated and be exposed to unique cultures and traditions then these are the 6000M expeditions we recommend for beginner or intermediate level climbers in 2022.
Question
Are you planning your next mountain expedition in Nepal? What is your preference when planning a mountain expedition in Nepal (Remote or famous peaks)? What is your experience level? Are you a novice, beginner, intermediate, or professional skill level climber? Which mountain peak do you want to climb in the Himalayas?
Our team can assist you in your dream expeditions and help you achieve your summit safely while creating lifelong memories to cherish.
Climb that mountain because it’s there.
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Climbers Guide: Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M Expedition - Namas Adventure
Climbers Guide: Lobuche East & Island Peak Expedition
Mountain Overview
Lobuche East Peak
Elevation: 6119M / 200075FT
Co-ordinates: 27.9595° N, 86.7899° E
Location: Khumbu Region
Parent Mountain: Lobuche
Summits: 1 summit and extension Lobuche West Summit
Country: Nepal
Mountain Overview
Island Peak (Imja Tse)
Elevation: 6189M / 20305FT
Co-ordinates: 43.6605° N, 70.1907° W
Location: Imja Valley
Parent Mountain: Lhotse Shar
Summits: 1 main summit
Country: Nepal
About the Mountains
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.
Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.
History
The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984.
The team who first climbed Imja Tse or Island peak comprised Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and seven other Sherpas.
How to get here?
There are two main routes to get to Lobuche East and Island Peak
Via Mera Peak and Amphu Lhabtsa pass (Three Peak Expedition)
Via Lukla
Are permits required?
Yes, permits are 100% required. Permit costs $250 USD (Spring) and $125 USD (Autumn) Per person.
Climbing Routes
Lobuche East Peak 6119M: South East ridge (PD) grade.
Island Peak 6189M Peak: South West ridge (PD) grade.
Express Itinerary
With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 20/21 days. Flying from either peaks Base camps to Lukla.
Further extensions
Mera Peak summit 6476M
+ Add Mera Peak (Three Peak Expedition)
Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip to trek through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the mountain and Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).
Baruntse 7129M Expedition
Baruntse 7129M
Baruntse Peak is a 7000er mountain peak located just between the ever famous Khumbu region and the raw Makalu region. This peak range forms a giant wall seperating the two region. Crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho to the north-west by the Imja glacier, and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. Baruntse mountain stretch has four ridges and four summits. The three main ridges are situated between the glaciers, the fourth main summit lies to the west near Cho Polu peak. More detailed informations about Baruntse Expedition in the link below
Ama Dablam 6810M Expedition
Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam climb is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.
Other highlights during these expeditions
✅Tenzing Hillary ✈️Lukla Airport 2800M
Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.
✅Namche Bazzar 3375M
Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.
After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)
✅Gokyo Lake 4900M
Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary
Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri
The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)
✅Ultimate Bucket List - 🏔Everest Base Camp 5346M
The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.
Want to plan your expedition to the Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
What’s stopping you? Go. Explore more.
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Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal
Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best expedition program for anyone seeking long mountain adventure days and a feast of Himalayan climbing experience. Climbers will summit three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Trekking through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the lifestyle in the mountains, witness Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).
Climbers pass through several beautiful villages of Khumbu and Makalu/Barun valley. Once climbers arrive at the base of each peak alpine camping beings. The expedition is suitable for anyone with beginner to intermediate skill levels. Past experience is not mandatory but climbers must have very good endurance fitness since this is a month-long expedition. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of three amazing peaks in Nepal.
Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.
Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.
After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)
Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary
Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri
The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)
The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.
Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.
Climbing and crossing the challenging Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M.
Mera High Camp 5800M
Mera high camp 5800M is one of the iconic high camps. Climbers will come across the final or beginning leg of their Khumbu Three Peak expedition. Out of all the three summits, Mera peak summit offers the most grander view of the Himalayas. Most of the 8000M+ in the Khumbu and Makalu region can be seen. On the left Cho-Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu to Kanchenjunga in the far right hand side. Chamlang another 7000M+ peak can be seen in front (slightly to right) from the summit and other Himalayan peaks are clearly visible. On a clear summit day, the view is something out of this world.
Himalayan panoramic view from Mera Peak summit 6476M.
Want to plan your expedition to the Khumbu Three Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure
12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal
1. Which mountains does Khumbu Three Peak expedition include?
Mera Peak 6476M is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails, and of course beautiful mountains all around.
Island Peak 6189M is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The climb is suitable for beginner/intermediate level climbers. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having a difficulty rating of 2B.
Lobuche East Peak 6119M is another popular 6,000+ m climbing peak in the Khumbu region. This peak is also suitable for beginner/intermediate-level climbers. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training/acclimatisation peaks before making attempting the expedition.
2. When is the best time to climb Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Khumbu three peak is best suited to climbing during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). Climbers can expect the spring season to be busier because of all major 8000M+ expeditions.
For experienced climbers, winter climb is still possible but this comes with a lot of uncertainties. i.e unstable conditions, tea houses may not be operational or even the ones operating won’t be well-stocked. Pre-arrangements will have to be made but that will also depend on the number of climbers.
3. Is it possible to shorten the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Helicopter in Nepal
Yes, the trip can be shortened, but it will incur additional costs. After reaching the summit of the final peak, the climbers will be flown via helicopter from the final base camp or village. The cost of the charter will depend on the drop-off location and the number of passengers, with prices ranging from $4000 to $4500. Our team at Namas Adventure has established relationships with reliable helicopter service providers and is able to offer flexible options. Contact us for further information.
4. How much does it cost to climb Khumbu Three Peak? What does the cost include?
At Namas Adventure, the cost of the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition is $6250 per person. Our company offers premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, so climbers can fully focus on their adventure without worrying about any logistics. With our experienced team, you can have a stress-free and enjoyable climbing holiday.
List of what’s included in your booking.
NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
40 Kgs per person
Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
5. Are guides necessary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?
To obtain a permit for climbing all three peaks, it is mandatory to work with a registered local company and hire guides. We strongly recommend that beginner to intermediate-level climbers climb with guides for their safety and to maximize their experience. This expedition lasts for 30 days, and the climb will be physically demanding, so having experienced guides is essential.
When climbing the Island Peak route, you will be required to navigate through crevasses and cross ladders, and new challenges may present themselves each climbing season. Even experienced climbers or guides who prefer to venture into new routes will still be required to have a local guide accompanying them. Thus, legally, guide assistance is mandatory for climbing these peaks.
6. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?
Mera Peak high camp 6100M
Proper acclimatization is crucial for high-altitude climbing trips and expeditions. Our team, with its years of climbing-guiding experience and a deep understanding of scientific literature, knows that the body needs sufficient time to adjust to the environment after reaching a certain elevation.
On the Khumbu Three Peak climbing trip, we prioritize acclimatization through our carefully designed itinerary, which includes climbing the Mera Peak first wich is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. This approach allows your body to adapt to altitudes above 6400M and provides you with opportunities to experience alpine camping, admire the stunning Himalayan scenery, and build up strength for your summit attempt.
Once you have successfully summited one Mera Peak, your body will have already adapted and be prepared for the challenges of the remaining 6000M peaks on the itinerary.
7. What training is required to climb the Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Can you suggest to me a training plan?
The Khumbu Three Peak itinerary, although classified as a beginner to intermediate-level climb, should not be underestimated. The grading of mountains is based on both technical and physical demands. This expedition demands climbers to be in a very good physically and mentally. To ensure optimal preparation for the climb, it's recommended that climbers focus on endurance and strength training. This can include aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km to 20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 to 2 hours), and hiking with an added weight of 10 to 15 kgs. More on our training mountain expedition blog.
Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.
8. How hard is Khumbu Three Peak Expedition climb?
Lobuche East Peak summit push
The Mera Peak is rated as 1B, while Island Peak and Lobuche East Peak are rated as 2B. (Alpine grading link)
The summit climb is considered the most challenging and physically demanding part of the trip. At high altitudes, proper breathing can be a struggle, but with proper acclimatization, hydration, and nutrition, the body can adjust and recover. Once leaving the base camp, climbers will be faced with the true alpine challenge, which includes steep ascents and descents on ice and snow surfaces. Each summit day may last up to 10 or more hours of walking, climbing, and descending. The summit day usually begins early in the morning, with the goal of reaching the summit or as close to it as possible by sunrise.
To successfully complete the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, a strong endurance and physical stamina is required. All previous training, willpower, mental strength, and a passion for adventure will be put to the test during this grueling, yet rewarding journey.
9. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Khumbu Three Peak expedition (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Khumbu Three Peak climb?
Selecting the appropriate gear is essential for a successful climb. It is recommended to prioritize quality and comfort in your clothing and gear choices. Adequate layering is crucial, especially during nighttime when temperatures can drop below -10/-15°C. For our recommended clothing and gear, please consult our equipment blog.
For our Namas Adventure clients, we offer gear rental services that feature top-quality, well-maintained equipment from Kailas. Hiring gear from other local sources in Nepal is not recommended as we have found their equipment to be of subpar quality.
Investing in high-quality gear such as boots (trekking and mountaineering) is highly encouraged. With advancements in technology, climbing shoes have improved, and we suggest double-layered options such as La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa Phantom. Spending on good quality gear is a wise investment, as it can greatly impact the success and safety of your climb.
10. What types of foods are available during Khumbu Three Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?
Mineral water is readily available for purchase at most tea houses. During alpine camping, we will boil ice to produce drinking water that will be collected by our kitchen team. It's recommended that clients drink 4 to 6 liters of water daily to maintain proper hydration and acclimatization. We suggest taking hydration tablets or using a filtration bottle to ensure clean and safe drinking water.
Meals are typically prepared at the tea houses, and during climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa team. You can expect delicious food, but remember to eat enough, as at high altitudes the body may naturally resist food. Packed-dried meals are also available for those who prefer an alternative to the hot food being prepared in the tents.
It's important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the climb. While you may observe our guiding leaders smoking or drinking, they are professionals who have adapted to high-altitude environments, unlike climbers who are there for adventure holidays.
11. What trip insurance will I need for this Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?
Helicopters are used for for any emergency evacuation in Nepal.
Having adequate insurance coverage is critical when embarking on a climbing expedition. Unexpected events, such as illness or altitude sickness, can occur at any time. For this reason, we strongly recommend purchasing insurance from one of our recommended providers (link).
In the event of an emergency, helicopter evacuation may be necessary. This is especially true in the Everest region where air transport is the only feasible option. Our guides will evaluate the situation and use their expertise to support and motivate you, but if a serious issue arises, helicopter evacuation will be initiated.
To initiate the evacuation process, we will contact the insurance company's emergency hotline for approval. The cost of the evacuation will need to be covered upfront but can be reimbursed upon returning home with the proper documentation, such as helicopter evacuation receipts and a doctor's certification letter.
Please note that there was a significant helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, and insurance companies are now taking extra precautions to prevent similar incidents from happening. Our guides and staff in Kathmandu will also provide a briefing on the process for emergency evacuation and the necessary steps for successful reimbursement.
12. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?
Upon completion of your Khumbu Three Peak expedition, if you are looking to tackle even greater heights, we can recommend other peaks in the 7000M+ to 8000M+ range for you to strive for.
Baruntse Expedition 7129M (Spring)
Himlung Himal Summit. Pic by - Elisa Rotterud. (Autumn departures)
Ama Dablam Expedition 6810M
Ama Dablam 6810M (Autumn Departures)
Manaslu Base Camp (Autumn departures)
Conclusion
The Khumbu Three Peak expedition is an incredible and once-in-a-lifetime experience. Like all mountain climbing trips, this journey is well worth the effort. We hope that the information provided will assist you in properly preparing for your adventure. If you're seeking an outstanding climbing trip and want to have a fantastic time in Nepal, we would be thrilled to have you join us. Our professional and fun-loving guides, with 5-10+ years of experience leading peak climbing trips, will ensure that you receive quality services and have a great time. Our ultimate goal is to provide the best adventure experience in the world while prioritizing your safety and success on the summit.
Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Three Peaks in the Khumbu region? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.
Climb - Khumbu Three Peak link
Mera Peak or Island Peak - Namas Adventure
Mera Peak or Island Peak
Mera Peak or Island Peak? Which 6000M peak to plan when you first want to start climbing a peak in Nepal. Which is the peak best suited for my abilities or which peak should I climb? To make your decision easier for you, we have laid out the details of each peak, which will help you decide with your 6000M peak climbing. The other option will be to combine both magnificent Mera and Island Peak climb in your itinerary.
Mera Peak 6476 M
Mera Peak 6476M, highest 6000M trekking Peak in Nepal
Non-technical climb up to 6476M. No use of ropes, ice-axe, ascender, or ladders
Beginners/novice suitable peak
Base camp and high camp strategy
Located in the Makalu Barun region of Nepal
Remote and less popular compared to Island Peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
360 Panoramic view of Nepal Himalayan range. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, and many other peaks are visible from Summit and descend to high camp.
Mera Peak is considered the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The trails break off from Lukla going in a different direction to the Makalu Barun region, which completely avoids the normal Everest trek trail usually packed by Everest base camp trekkers and climbers. So, you can expect less traffic from trekkers on Mera Peak trails. With the mountain itself is a non-technical climb, Mera peak can be a perfect mountain climbing experience for those climbers not wanting to use ropes or ascender/descender gears to climb to the summit. Simply rely on the guidance of your guide and your strength to climb the peak. Physically it can be demanding, as on your summit day you will have to ascend for 4-6 hours depending on your speed of climbing uphill. The view from the summit is awe-inspiring, as you will be able to witness a 360-degree view of the great Himalayas range. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Kanchanjhunga, and other peaks are clearly visible right in front of you during clear weather.
Island Peak 6189M
The most famous 6000M climbing peak in Nepal
Technical climb with summit approach 90 degrees ascend. Use of rope lines, ascender, figure 8 to descend, and ladders to cross the crevasse gaps.
Beginners/novice technical climbing
Base camp and high camp climbing strategy
Located in Everest trail route, in Imja valley
Remote and most popular climbing and summited 6000M peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
Narrow summit ridge and is also a perfect peak to learn technical climbing approach
Island peak shares the same trail as the Everest base camp route up to Dingboche. Island peak is the most popular and summited 6000M in the Khumbu region. Island peak is suitable for first-time beginner climbers and is a perfect mountain for climbers who wants to experience and learn technical climbing in the mountains. You will be using the steel ladders (like they use in Everest) to cross the crevasse openings and use ascenders on fixed ropes to climb onto the final steep section, a 90-degree vertical wall. When climbing you will be using ascender on the fixed ropes to climb all the way to the summit. Training will be given prior to your climbing by our Sherpa guiding team on all our climbing expeditions. Like any expedition, this peak is physically demanding and on your summit day from high camp, you will be climbing for 6 - 8 hours, depending on your speed of climbing.
Or, simply you can make it extra challenging by combing both Mera Peak and Island Peak itinerary. The beauty of this itinerary is crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass which is challenging and awe-inspiring.
Amphu Laptsa Pass 5800M
Arrival
Day 1 Kathmandu ( Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )
Day 2 Lukla / Monjo
Day 3 Monjo / Namche Bazaar
Day 4 Acclimatisation day
Day 5 Namche Bazaar / Tengboche
Day 6 Tengboche / Dingboche
Day 7 Acclimatisation
Day 8 Dingboche / Chukung
Day 9 Chukung / Island Peak base camp
Day 10 IPBC / Island peak high camp
Day 11 Ascend to Island peak summit / Chukung
Day 12 Chukung / Lobuche East Base Camp
Day 13 Lobuche High camp 5600M (5 to 6 hours)
Day 14 Summit day 6118M / High camp or Lobuche village
(1 Day Contingency Summit day, in case of bad weather to summit Lobuche east )
Day 15 Gorakshep / Everest Base Camp
Day 16 Dzongla
Day 17 Gokyo Via Cho-la-pass
Day 18 Gokyo ri trek
Day 19 Macahharmo
Day 20 Macahharmo to Doles
Day 21 Dole to Namche Bazaar
Day 22 To Lukla
Day 23 Kathmandu
Day 24 Departure
Or Another option would be Island Peak and Lobuche East peak.
Three Peak challenge (Mera, Island, and Lobuche East Peak)
We have set departures for all three peaks every year. To book your Spring or Autumn climb please email our team or head to the relevant page on our website for detailed pieces of information.
If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.
Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.