Best 7000M+ peaks to climb in Nepal - Namas Adventure
Near the summit of Annapurna IV 7525M
Although 7000M peaks do not have the same level of prestige as 8000M peaks or the highest peaks in the world, they can still be a great challenge for adventure seekers. While these peaks may not be as well-known as their higher counterparts, they offer a unique and rewarding experience for climbers. 7000-meter peaks are ideal for those who are seeking a true adventure challenge, and who are motivated by a love of climbing, cultural immersion, and personal accomplishment. If you are one of these passionate climbers, consider embarking on a mountaineering expedition to one of the six 7000er peaks in Nepal listed in this post. These peaks offer a chance to push your limits and achieve something truly remarkable.
Below we have listed 6 amazing and remote peaks to climb in the Nepalese Himalayan range.
Note - Prior experience of alpine or mountaineering climb above 4000+M - 6000M+ is a must. Skill and fitness requirements will vary from different mountain peak objectives.
1. Himlung Himal 7126M (Least difficult & least technical 7000er)
Summit of Himlung Himal 7126M, Vincente 2022 Fall expedition.
Altitude: 7126M / 23,379ft
Climbers’ experience level: Intermediate/Advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring, 5-20), Moderate (Autumn, 50 - 150)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October
Duration: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camp 1/2/3
Himlung Himal, standing at 7126 meters, is widely considered to be one of the safest and easiest 7000 meter peaks to climb in Nepal. Thanks to new, safer routes pioneered by French and Swiss climbers, Himlung Himal may become more accessible to climbers seeking a less technically demanding experience in western Nepal. The peak was not climbed until 1992, when it was conquered by a Japanese expedition, due to the fact that the area was not open to foreigners until the early 1990s. Located between the Manaslu and Annapurna ranges, the base camp for Himlung Himal is set up at an elevation of 4900 meters. The previous route up the peak, via the northwest ridge, has become increasingly prone to avalanche danger. A new, normal route was pioneered in 2013 by Kari Kobler of Switzerland, which offers an interesting and relatively short climb with limited objective danger. This route ascends the south flank of the northwest ridge to reach the upper crest, bypassing the previous route.
Note - Himlung Himal 7126M has the most successful summit records amongst all the 7000M+ commercial expeditions in Nepal. (Himalayan Database)
The Himlung Himal climbing expedition involves establishing 2-3 high camps at elevations of 5430 meters, 6000 meters, and 6300 meters. The summit day involves an ascent of 1100 meters through snow slopes with an angle of 40-45 degrees, requiring good snow conditions. Deep snow can pose a challenge even for strong teams. The climb is technically simple and objectively safe, making it an ideal preparation for your first 8000 meter peak.
History: First Ascent by the Japanese team in 1992.
Climb - Himlung Himal Link
2. Baruntse Peak 7129M (intermediate level and demanding)
Namas team on Baruntse Summit and fixed the climbing line to the summit during 22 fall expedition
Altitude: 7129M/ 23,389 ft
Acclimatization peak: Mera Peak 6476M
Climbers experience level: Intermediate level Experience
Crowd level: Minimum (Autumn, 15 - 40 climbers)
Location: Makalu Barun National Park
When to climb?: March-May or September - November
Duration: 32 - 35 Days
Difficulty Grading: D/ 4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Camping at Mera Peak/Baruntse BC/Camp 1 - 2
The Baruntse 7129M and Mera Peak 6476M climbing expedition offers a challenging and rewarding experience at the 7000 meter level. Baruntse, standing at 7129 meters, is located between Lhotse and Makalu, with other Himalayan peaks stretching out on either side. Teams often climb the nearby Mera Peak (6476 meters/21,246 feet) as an acclimatization climb, which falls on the same route as Baruntse. Once the base camp is established and the team has undergone training and a Puja ceremony, the real climb begins. Baruntse involves semi-technical climbing on steep slopes of 60 - 70 degrees incline to Camp 1 at 6000M via west col. The second camp is located at 6420 meters. Both camps are set up in exposed areas and are prone to high winds, so climbers should be prepared for unexpected weather conditions. The climbing route consists mainly of ice and snow, with very little rocky terrain after the first camp. Crevasses may appear more during the spring season compared to autumn along the route, and the objective at around 6900 meters can be dangerous. Experienced guidance is recommended in order to safely navigate the route to the summit.
History: Baruntse was first climbed on May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Climb - Baruntse with Mera Peak Expedition link
3. Annapurna IV 7525M (advanced level, technical & physically demanding)
Altitude: 7525M / 24,688ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate+/Advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/Autumn, 0 - 20)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October
Total no of days: 33 Days
Difficulty grading: TD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camps 1/2/3/4
Annapurna IV 7525M, is a great mountaineering objective for climbers looking for a challenging, but relatively safe and semi-technical climb. At 7527 meters, it is part of the Annapurna massif range and is located between Annapurna II and Annapurna III. While it may not be as popular as other peaks in the region, it offers fewer objective dangers and is considered the least technical of the Annapurna massif peaks (Annapurna I, II, III, IV, and Gangapurna). This mountain is not climbed as often as other peaks in the region.
History: Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.
4. Tilicho Peak 7134M (intermediate level and remote climb)
Tiicho Peak 7134M.
Altitude: 7134M / 23,405ft ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate to advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/autumn, 0-10 members)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October-November
Total no of days: 32 Days
Difficulty grading: D+/4 (Alpine grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Basecamp, Camps 1/2/3
If you're seeking a technical challenge at the 7000M level, Tilicho Peak may be the climb for you. The expedition starts with a beautiful trek through the Annapurna circuit, culminating in a visit to Tilicho lake, the highest lake in the world, at an elevation of 4910 meters. Located in the Annapurna region of Nepal to the north of Manang, Tilicho Peak stands at a majestic 7134 meters. Its northeast ridge, covered in snow, towers over the Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, with the hidden kingdom of Mustang just a few miles to the north. The standard climbing route for the peak is the northwest shoulder, with the base camp located at 4910 meters on the northwest end of the lake.
Tilicho Peak is a technical climb that requires proficiency in climbing skills and physical fitness. It is recommended that climbers have previous experience in alpine and high-altitude climbing. The peak is graded as 4D, with a combination of rock and ice climbing, as well as glaciers. There are three high camps established on the route to the summit of Tilicho Peak. The climb from the base camp to Camp 1 at 5800 meters is straightforward, along a 50-degree mixed rock and ice route that is 590 meters in length. Camp 2, at 6200 meters, is located on the shoulder and can be accessed via a 55-degree snowfield that is 450 meters in length. The shoulder has an angle of 55 degrees and an 800-meter snowfield, with low objective danger and minimal exposure due to the wide width of the shoulder. Fixed ropes are required for the 40-degree slope to reach Camp 2 at 6300 meters. The summit is approached by climbing stretches of a 60-degree slope.
History: The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder.
Climb - Tilicho Peak (Click here)
5. Putha Hiunchuli 7246M (Dhaulagiri VII) (least difficult and least technical. Remote 7000er)
Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) 7246M, Photo by - Nunatak
Altitude: 7,246M / 23773ft
Difficulty: Least difficult and least technical
Crowd level: Minimum (Autumn, 5 - 20)
Location: Dhaulagiri Range
When to climb?: September - October
Total no of days: 31 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Basecamp, Camp 1/2/3
Dhaulagiri VII (also known as 'Putha Hiunchuli') is one of the most accessible 7000M+ peaks in the Dhaulagiri range. It is located in the remote Dolpo or the wild west region of Nepal. Although most of the 7000M+ peaks are in remote corners of Nepal, this region even to locals is remotest compared to other regions of Nepal.
The climbing route has no significant technical climbing, the mountain is still a serious undertaking and provides excellent training for those who want to attempt Everest or other 8,000m peaks. Teams will be setting up three high altitude camps and a base camp. This can be considered as one of the easy climbs when we compare it amongst other 7000M peaks yet it is not to be underestimated. If you want to add an extra thrill then climbers with off-piste ski experiences can attempt a ski when descending.
History: This peak was first climbed by J.O.M Roberts and Ang Nima Sherpa in 1954.
Climb - Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) Click here
6. Ama Dablam 6819M (advanced level & technical climb)
Altitude: 6,812M / 22,349ft
Acclimatization: Island peak 6180M
Climbers experience level: Advanced/Pro Level
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring, 5 - 20), Excessive (Autumn, 200 - 300) Mid October - Mid November is the busiest.
Location: Khumbu Region
When to climb?: September - November
Total no of days: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: TD+/5 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Cam / Camping Island Peak BC/Highcamp/ Ama Dablam BC / Camp 1-2 and Camp 2.1 (depending on yearly climbing assessment)
Ama Dablam, standing at 6,856 meters, may not be as tall as some of the other 7000M peaks, but it is no less challenging. In fact, it is considered to be just as difficult as many of the 7000-meter peaks and is a must-do for alpine and mountain climbing enthusiasts. The combination of rock, snow, and ice climbing, along with exposed terrain and sections of almost 90-degree slopes, makes this peak a true test of skill and endurance. It is also known for its beauty and is highly sought after by even seasoned Everest summiteers. If you are looking for a thrilling and challenging mountain climbing experience, Ama Dablam is the peak for you.
Expedition teams normally utilize Island peak 6189M as an acclimatization peak before settling down at Ama Dablam base camp. The peak attracts a lot of climbers during the autumn season, rightly so because of its climbing nature. This expedition involves a cultural trek into the base camp and climbing on technical rock, vertical snow and ice routes and stunning exposed panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit. Teams climb Amadablam via the South West ridge, a technical route, and the standard route setting up 2 or possibly 3 camps (camp 3 depends on the assessment by each year’s rope fixing team). The route on the summit day is on steep snow and ice slopes, with outrageous exposure directly to the summit.
History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition lead by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Climb - Ama Dablam with Island Peak Expedition (Link)
If you're looking to add some incredible mountain climbing experiences to your repertoire, consider tackling one of the 7000M+ peaks. Whether you're looking to build up to climbing even higher or just want the thrill of a mountaineering expedition, the peaks listed above offer some of the best mountain climbing adventures in the world. Located in remote areas and reaching high altitudes, each of these peaks has its own unique character and climbing challenges. We hope that these 7000M+ peaks will receive the recognition they deserve and that Nepal will continue to welcome mountain climbers from around the globe.
If you have any questions then there are some peaks like Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Tilicho Peak, Himlung Himal, and Annapurna IV expedition. We at Namas organize yearly departures but for other peaks such as Putha Hiunchuli, and Gangapurna upon inquiry our team will be able to organize a fully serviced expedition.
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Other related articles:
When is the best time to climb Himlung Himal? Spring or Autumn? - Namas Adventure
Climbing the final summit ridge at Himlung Himal 7126M
Himlung Himal is one of the best options to climb a 7000M+ peak in the remote corner of the Annapurna region. This 7000M peak expedition is classed as one of the most accessible, safest, semi-technical climbs with a higher summit success rate at 7000M peak mountain expeditions.
This peak is suitable to climb during both seasons but more success stories have been officially recorded of the autumn season’s climb. See our blog post on Baruntse or Himlung Himal for data from 2017 to 2020 (Link). For those interested in their first 7000M peak expeditions, we often get asked when is the best time to climb Himlung Himal?
With years of running expeditions and gathering local information passed on from our guides, who have been climbing year in and out, and collecting data from local databases, we would say it depends on your preference for climbing a mountain in different conditions. The great news is that Himlung Himal is suitable to climb during late spring and during early to mid-autumn. Here, we aim to lay out the conditions during spring and autumn so that you can choose to climb in the season you prefer.
What is the difference between Spring & Autumn climb? 🧗
There are fewer climbers during the spring season compared to the autumn season.
More snow during spring compared to autumn climbs
A high probability of wind speed picking up and extreme freezing temperature drop during late autumn.
The spring season sees a longer daylight duration compared to the autumn season.
Late April to May and Mid-September to October are the best time to climb.
Autumn sees more stable weather compared to the spring season.
In spring (late April - May) some of the winter snow will have melted in the mountains making it favorable to climb. Himlung Himal is known to have more snow (more so during spring), so do not underestimate the grit you will have to go through when climbing this peak. Weather can never be guaranteed in the mountains and you should expect some weather-related disturbances during your climb even though this is the best time to climb. If you are one who enjoys a bit of an extra challenge at extreme altitude peak climbing then spring expeditions might your pick.
Every mountain definitely tests your patience especially when things don’t go according to the plan and teams will have to improvise and wait out for climbable conditions. Spring sees fewer climbers than other peaks (Everest/Lhotse excluded) compared to autumn. When spring does open up with a clear weather window it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal. Oh! and not to forget you and your team will have the whole of the mountain to yourself. There is hardly any team in Himlung Himal during the spring season.
Autumn (Mid September - October) is the next time to climb Himlung Himal. A number of teams can be expected during this season compared to the spring season. After Manaslu 8163M teams are focused on either Himlung Himal 7129M, Baruntse 7129M, or Ama Dablam 6810M (the most teams). Guides have reported that as soon as November hits high winds start to pick up in the mountain and this has been the case for the past several years most summits have been in October or in the first week of November.
Himlung Himal has the highest summit records during the autumn season when compared amongst all the commercial 7000M+ expeditions that operate in Nepal. So under good to perfect conditions and the mountain not being super-difficult to climb, technically, Himlung Himal is the best 7000M+ expedition to climb during autumn.
Conclusion
Whichever is your preferred season, climbing Himlung Himal 7129 is an amazing 7000M+ expedition to be undertaken. Spring hosts fewer climbers when compared to autumn and conditions are suitable to climb during both seasons as mentioned above. If you are up for a challenge and prefer to see fewer climbers during the expedition then spring departures are for you. If you are comfortable with some amount of teams being in the mountains then autumn is still a great time to climb this 7000er peak. The thrill and challenges of climbing a remote Himalayan peak are guaranteed. You as a climber choose your climbing condition and the thrill of a great climbing experience is guaranteed. Either way, it is an amazing peak to climb and an accomplishment of a lifetime.
Let’s go, and climb Himlung Himal and other peaks around the world.
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Question.
Which season do you plan to climb Himlung Himal? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.
We organize Himlung Himal 7129M peak expedition every year during spring and during autumn. Planning to climb a 7000M+ peak one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.
Baruntse 7129M or Himlung Himal 7126M which 7000M+ mountain peak to climb? - Namas Adventure
Baruntse and Himlung Himal are perfect intermediate level and semi-technical peaks to climb at 7000M level in the Himalayas. Whatever your goals for climbing a 7000M extreme altitude expedition be, a stepping stone to an 8000er peak or climbing simply climbing a 7000er mountain peak, we highly recommend these two peak expeditions. (Putha Hiunchuli 7246M is another great option)
Both expeditions are not crowded as the 8000er expeditions (Everest/Lhotse during spring & Manaslu during autumn). Between the two expeditions, Himlung Himal has seen slightly higher climbers compared to Baruntse. (2021 Autumn, Himlung Himal 77 - 90 climbers & Baruntse 20 - 25 climbers). So, you can certain that there won’t be a crazy amount of climbers during your expedition. Having said that, it is always good to have some number of team/s in the mountain. You can never be sure when an event turns out wrong in the mountains. Every day we are playing with the forces of nature. Balance is key.
Learning from past summit data, the Himlung Himal expedition has a higher rate of summit success compared to the Baruntse peak expedition where there are several summits during the autumn season compared to 0 summits during the spring season (commercial route). Let’s look at the data from the previous 5 years of Baruntse 7129M and Himlung Himal 7126M successful summits. (commercial expeditions). Source “Himlayan Database”
Successful summits, BARUNTSE 7129M VS HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M
So, coming to the question of which 7000M peak I should climb?
Our answer is it depends on your preference. What is it that you want from your adventure? If the summit goal is important to you (no mountain summit is 100% guaranteed) then Himlung Himal 7126M has a better odds of making it to the summit than Baruntse 7129M and is technically less challenging.
Situations change in the mountains, you never know when the next dangers pop out in the mountain, or the hazard that was there before may not even exist. Weather is a huge factor during your high camp days. You may have a clear window for the next 7+ days or it might be pouring snow and low visibility, windy for an extended period of time. Being safe and returning home safely should be your primary goal. Whatever the circumstances, you should be open to all possibilities of success or failure. What is guaranteed is a raw and thrilling Himalayan adventure in your life memoir.
With the insight data from previous years, if you would like to choose any of the 7000M expeditions mentioned above then our team at Namas Adventure is here to assist and welcome you to take on your adventure of climbing a 7000M mountain. We organize the expedition during both seasons. For yearly mountain updates and summit success, hazards in the mountains and to be part of our team on 7000M mountain expeditions or other mountaineering expeditions, please email us at - bookings@namasadventure.com. Our team will be there to assist you on your next adventure of a lifetime.
Let’s go and explore the 7000ers.
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Namas Adventure Team