Baruntse New Route (West Face "A Heavenly trap")
New West face route. Heavenly trap. 2021 May Completed by two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh
Two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and fellow Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh completed a new route ascent to Baruntse 7129M in alpine style via the west face route which they named as “Heavenly trap” (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m). They dedicated this route line to their friend Petr Machold & Kuba Vanek, who passed away in this same route 8 years ago.
Marek true to his alpine style described this as one of his hardest climbs. On top, they completed this feat during Cyclone YASS. The pair originally planned and packed for 6 days of the climb instead they had to spend 10 days up in the walls with 7 bivouac camps. Sounds gnarly and super intense. Marek outlines and gives us a glimpse they suffered and endured everything that was thrown at them.
COMPARING BARUNTSE TWO ROUTES
Standard route vs Heavenly trap. Difference of Classic mountaineering style vs Alpine style
In the image above you can see the difference between the two routes (In Green - Heavenly trap, Alpine-style vs In Blue - Standard route, classic mountaineering style). Almost all expedition companies (including Namas Adventure/EXPEDITION) organize Baruntse expedition with classic mountaineering style. This style and route are easier and safer if you compare it with the alpine climbing style. Not to say mountaineering style is easy but when making the comparison it is pretty much clear which climbing style is tougher.
Two Alpine style routs of Baruntse. Russain-Efimov 1995 & Czech 2021.
We highlight some of the moments from this epic climb.
“The Heavenly Trap” route (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m). Westface. Baruntse. Image courtesy - Alpine Magazine.
21st May 2021 - Soon after navigating the glaciers they had to bivouac just below the base of the mountain.
22nd May 2021 - 10 Hours on crampons and climbing. Hard ice climb starts from the lower section. Tougher sections as they climb higher. Bivouac in sitting position.
23rd May 2021 - Good weather. Diagonal lead climb. Slow progress and lots of energy used. Tent in snow rib and bivouc.
24th May 2021 - Most difficult passage of the ascent. Climbing during heavy snowfall. Snowfall and wind all night.
25th May 2021 - Bad weather, no option but to climb. Plan to summit early but with snowfall and wind making it tough on the mixed section which will take all day. Summit around 4 PM in foggy conditions and low visibility. No summit cheers or photos as the weather are at its extreme. Set up the tent and wait it out.
26th - 28th May 2021 - Devlisih weather. Struggling even to boil water or take a piss. Wet, cold, frozen and pray it all settles down. Clears snow several times from the tent.
29th May 2021 - Weather improves and this is the opportunity. Descends down 1000M. Risk of avalanche so descends slowly. Impossible to make it to the glacier hence the final and another brutal bivouac awaits.
30th May 2021 - Beautiful morning and with this opportunity they call helicopter evacuation via satellite phone. Finally, around 7 am the helicopter evacuates them and flies them to Lukla.
Radoslav "Radar" Groh (left) and Marek "Mara" Holecek (Right)
Find our more detailed interview provided by Marek in the climbing magazine and alpinist magazine.
Video
Want to climb Baruntse (Classic Mountaineering style) in the remote Makalu/Barun region of Nepal? For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
Visual Journey of Baruntse Expedition - Namas Adventure
Baruntse Peak 7129M, Nepal
The experience of climbing Baruntse is one of the most thrilling climbs in the Makalu Barun Valley. Not only is the climb beautiful and raw but it is physically challenging. Land in the buzzing historic city of Kathmandu following then to the famous Lukla airport. From there trek through the Khumbu region to enter into thick jungles of the Barun Makalu region to climb the icy summits of Mera. After acclimatizing well at Mera, the following adventure leads to the summit of Baruntse.
Climbers pass through several beautiful villages and as we reach Mera BC our alpine camping begins. Once climbers reach Baruntse base camp we rest there and prepare for our Baruntse Summit. The climb demands an intermediate level of skill and past experience and our team members are made up of highly experienced climbers. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of Baruntse 7129M.
Boudhanath, Kathmandu
Arrive in the vibrant and beautiful city of Kathmandu. Our team picks you up from the airport and takes you to your hotel. There you rest and can explore the cities vibrant culture and traditions. Boudhanath (Buddhist shrine) is one of the places where you can explore.
Tenzing - Hillary Airport, Lukla, Khumbu, Nepal
Expect to reach early at the airport as most Lukla flights are in the morning. Once we arrive in Lukla (40 Min flight) our expedition starts. Porters load their packs meanwhile our climbers get their breakfast and excitement begins.
Trek through the beautiful villages passing through lush jungles and rugged trails. Climbers will come across the jungles of Rhododendron and other wild trees. Also, lots of mules and Sherpa porters along the first two days of the trek.
Trek through beautiful villages and stay in local tea houses
Monasteries and other cultural sites are a perfect detours to explore.
Once you enter Makalu Valley the mountains open them selves and climbers will be walking very close surrounded all around by the Himalayas.
Climbers can expect to see a lot of high and dry granite walls and Himalayas all around when trekking to higher tea houses and camps.
As soon as we enter Makalu Barun Nation park climbers will be able to see moraines and glaciers flowing through the Himalayas. Mera-la Glacier can be seen in the far distance just below the clouds.
Climbers and porters climbing Mera - La glacier, ascending higher to Mera high camp. From Mera-la the real alpine mountaineering begins.
Mera High Camp 5460M is one of the most interesting high camps during your expedition. We camp here for a night before making our early summit push to Mera Peak summit.
Mera Summit 6476M. This is one of the most spectacular and accessible climbs for anyone with even no climbing experience before. Mera summit offers a 360 panoramic view of surrounding Himalayan peaks. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and other uncountable amounts of 6000M and 7000M peaks are visible on a clear summit day. A visual galore to satisfy your adventure soul.
Heading towards Seto Pokhari
After Mera Peak summit, the journey heads further deep into Hunku valley taking us through base of Chamlang and other Himalayan peaks finally arriving at Baruntse base camp 5460M.
Namas team, Baruntse base camp.
Puja ceremony at Baruntse Base camp. After a day of rest, puja is organised seeking permission from the mountain god for safe passage when climbing the mountains. A monk recites and performs the rituals meanwhile all the climbers take care in this ceremony. Spirits are high and blessings are offered and everyone is to be ready for their final part of the expedition. Mentally, physically and spiritually.
West Col to Camp 1 (6100M) is one of the challenging objectives of the expedition. Once climbers leave from base camp, it takes about 2 hours to reach the crampon point. All expedition gears are then worn and after another 45 min hike on icy surface climbers reach the base of 200M vertical wall. After 2-3 hours of jumaring climbers arrive on a flat Baruntse plateau. The lead guide then advises all the team where to set up the first camp.
Camp 2 (6400M)
Camp 2 (6400M) is a short 2 - 4 hour ascent about 400M - 500M high. Gradually going higher climbing team sets up the camp just below the Baruntse ridge.
Namas Guide Pega Sherpa can be seen descending/traversing the exposed Baruntse ridge at 7000M elevation.
Climbers leave early pushing for the Summit bid. Most of the climbing is done in the ridge section of Baruntse. This is the most challenging and dangerous section of the entire climb. After passing from three false summits finally, climbers will reach their ultimate destination. Expect a long and challenging climb.
Namas Baruntse team Pega, Nima and Chewang Sherpa successfully summited Baruntse 7129M and fixed the rope to the summit paving way for other team members.
🏔Makalu 8463M seen in the right hand side, Summit of Baruntse 7129M
Baruntse Summit 7129M. Lying just between the Great Lhotse wall and Makalu.
Fish eye view of Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M. Another ridge to Baruntse on the right. Everest and Lhotse in front of the climbers (between the clouds). This is the wall between Khumbu and Makalu/Huknu valley.
For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com
When to climb Baruntse? (Spring or Autumn) - Namas Adventure
Are you wondering when the best time is to plan a Baruntse peak expedition in Nepal? Many climbers ask us this question. Based on our experience running expeditions and input from our experienced guides who regularly climb in the region, the best time for you to climb may depend on your personal preferences. Fortunately, Baruntse peak is suitable for climbing in both the spring and autumn seasons. In the following information, we will outline the conditions typically experienced during these seasons to help you decide which is the best fit for you.
Spring sees a lot more snow compared to autumn. After the winter and with ongoing spring showers, you can expect deep or fresh snow in the mountains. There appear to be more crevasse openings during the spring season. The fresh snow in the mountain definitely makes breaking the trail a lot harder (which the strong Sherpas are happy to do for you) and climbers can expect some weather-related disturbances on their planned summit window. Therefore, you should expect delays due to weather conditions. If you enjoy an extra challenge in high-altitude peak climbing, then spring expeditions might be for you. Spring definitely tests your patience, especially when things don't go according to plan and teams have to improvise a lot. That's why spring sees fewer climbers on other peaks (excluding Everest and Lhotse) compared to autumn. However, when spring does open up with a clear weather window, it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal.
Recorded Summits - There haven’t been any commercial expedition summits at Baruntse. (2005 - 2022). In 2021 Spring summit's success was recorded via a new route, alpine style by Marek Czech and Russian climbers.
Autumn is a popular time for climbers to attempt peaks in Nepal. The air is clean and crisp after the monsoon, and the snow on the Himalayan peaks has typically melted and settled compared to the deep, snowy conditions of spring. This makes climbing conditions more favorable. The autumn season begins in September and usually sees snowfall towards the end of November, with heavy falls expected as winter approaches. Baruntse also sees more teams attempting to climb during this period, although there are still fewer climbers compared to other famous expeditions like Ama Dablam or Manaslu.
Recorded Summits - Commercial expeditions have only been successful at Baruntse 7129M during the autumn season. (2006 - 2022). Namas team was able to successfully fix the ropes to the summit paving way for oncoming teams during the 2022 fall season.
Baruntse west col 5840M climb during Autumn season
Conclusion
No matter which season you prefer, climbing Baruntse and Mera is a challenging and rewarding experience. Spring offers deeper snow and more frequent showers, while autumn has less snow and stable, settled surfaces but shorter days. Both seasons offer a unique climbing experience and the opportunity to achieve a lifetime accomplishment.
Question.
Which season do you plan to climb Baruntse and Mera Peak? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.
We organize Baruntse with Mera peak expedition every year during autumn. Planning to climb Baruntse one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.
Lets, go take on Baruntse and other peaks around the world. Go. Live Your Story.