Baruntse 7129M expedition, 2021 Mountain status updates - Namas Adventure
2021 Autumn Baruntse Expedition. Client member heading to Camp 1 via West col.
2021 wasn’t the year to be for any teams to successfully complete Baruntse Expedition. We had small team expeditions both during Spring and Autumn this year (2021).
Spring was a big risk with uncertainty around COVID 19. Still, we managed to get a small team of 3 members and after summiting Mera Peak, our team had settled at Baruntse Base camp 5460M and was preparing for our climb to camp 1. Soon enough our team and other teams, who have been together with us since Mera Peak learned that the person we came in contact with (a day before Mera peak climb) was evacuated to Kathmandu and tested positive for COVID. After learning this most of the teams decided to call off their expedition, since all the guide members and had been in contact with the sick person’s guiding team members, and any illness and evacuations at 6100M+ or around camp 1 and beyond would have been devastating.
Autumn, our team arrived up to camp 2 at 6400M but could not proceed further as we had a very unexpected storm and heavy snowfall (4ft - 5ft deep) for 4-5 days, our guides could not go past camp two and resorted back to base camp to wait for a clear window. After waiting out for 4 days our team went back to camp 1. Windspeeds were picking up to 60 - 70mph and a high risk of avalanche in the mountain was to follow up soon in the after 2 days. Our lead guide decided to call off the expedition since the client member did not want to add any additional days (5 - 7 days) to the expedition.
The only group or two people to summit Baruntse on (2021) spring was Marek Holecek and his climbing partner Radoslav Groh. They completed a new notorious route, climbing alpine style on the west face naming it “the heavenly trap” read more about their expedition on our blog post below ⬇️
We had previous (2019) reports that there is a huge crevasse opening when leading up to the summit but no one had a concrete certain report from 2020. Since Marek and Radoslav were the only two people to summit Baruntse in 2021 and returned via the southwest (normal expedition route) we approached him asking about any potential dangers and hazards in the mountains. Marek replied back to us with the following email. (Thank you very much Marek 🙏🏼).
Hi,
At about 6500 m there is a large transverse crack over the ridge, which at the time we were there went to overcome, but we had really a lot of snow there. The crack runs across the entire ridge. Now I don't know what it looks like. The second crack was around 6000 m, above the saddle we had to rope down. The crack at 6500 m was very dangerous.
Cheers Marek
_________________
Our expedition team could spot the hole/crack at 6000M.
We will be organizing expeditions to Baruntse during 2022 and 2023 and it is great to learn about these potential dangers and hazards beforehand. Our guiding team can expect these hazards at 6500M and prepare an additional safety line around this particular ridge section. Any teams heading to Baruntse during 2022 or 2023 can use this information for their expedition too, after all, teamwork is key during the expeditions and we would like everyone to be safe in the mountains.
Want to plan your expeditions to Baruntse Peak 7129M or other high-altitude mountaineering expeditions in the Himalayas? Please inquire about your preferred expedition to our teams as we have several 6000M, 7000M, and 8000M expeditions running in the Himalayas every year.
See you in the mountains.
Live Your Story
Experiences, fitness and skills required to climb Baruntse Expedition - Namas Adventure
Baruntse 7129M in the background
What previous experience is required to climb Mount Baruntse?
This is probably one of the most important questions we get asked a lot, and climbers will need to weigh in with their previous expedition when planning their next high/extreme altitude peak expeditions. Baruntse peak climbing is no different. This 7000M+ peak does come with a substantial set of challenges and objective dangers. First, you will have to be very comfortable and experienced with ropes, climbing with climbing gear, ascending and descending on fixed-line, and bearing crisp cold climbing conditions.
Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences
Anywhere above 4000M - 6500M+ peaks with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. For example Alpamayo, Huscaran, Aconcagua, Mt. Kenya, Denali, Mt. Blanc, Mt lenin, Ebrus. If you have experience climbing semi-technical to technical peaks with long ascents and descents, you may be qualified to tackle Baruntse and other 7000M peaks in the Himalayas. It's important to consider your previous expedition experiences and determine if you have the necessary skills and comfort with climbing techniques, such as using ropes and climbing gear, ascending and descending fixed lines, and handling cold conditions at high altitudes.
Fitness level - 4
We have graded fitness level 4 for Mount Baruntse. To successfully climb Mount Baruntse, a high level of physical fitness is necessary. This includes exceptional overall fitness, endurance, and strength. Mental toughness is also essential for these demanding expeditions. Prior experience on semi-technical to technical peaks with long ascent and descent sections is preferred for this challenge. It is important to be in top shape and have the necessary skills to tackle this physically demanding climb.
To prepare for the physical demands of climbing Mount Baruntse, it is recommended to have an exceptional level of all-around fitness. This may include the ability to run a half marathon or marathon, cycle for 2-3 hours, or hike with a load of 20 kilograms for 3-4 hours. Additionally, mental toughness and previous climbing experience will also be beneficial for success on this expedition.
Good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.
Skills to be learned.
Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.
Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, traversing and hiking with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.
Climbers belaying loads down West Col, Baruntse expedition.
As climbers joining Baruntse expedition will already have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.
With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.
Challenge yourself.
Go. Live Your Story
Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 7000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.