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7000M and 8000M expedition 2025 departures - Namas Adventure

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7000M and 8000M expedition 2025 departures - Namas Adventure

Climbers ascending the false summit of Annapurna 4

7000M and 8000M expedition

2025 departures

Planning your next high-altitude adventure? Namas Adventure's 2025 departures for 7000M and 8000M peaks cater to climbers of varying skills, from entry-level enthusiasts to advanced level climbers. For more detailed information about each expedition, please click on the expedition name.

7000M

Entry Level

Perfect for climbers with basic technical skills and a good fitness level. Climbers must have experience at altitudes over 5000M - 6000M and are looking to push their limits further:

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with some high-altitude experience, good technical skills, and fitness level.

Advanced Level

Suitable for climbers with advanced skills and experience.

8000M

Entry Level

For climbers with intermediate technical skills and great fitness. Must have previous experience at altitudes over 6000M, including at least one 7000M peak.

Advanced Level

The ultimate test for top-tier climbers, requiring advanced technical knowledge and peak physical fitness.

Whether you're looking to step up your climbing game or tackle the world's highest peaks, Namas Adventure has an expedition for you. Join us to reach beyond the clouds and achieve the extraordinary in 2025.

Inquire here

Namas Adventure Team

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Exploring the Summits: How Many Climbers Have summited Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South?- Namas Adventure

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Exploring the Summits: How Many Climbers Have summited Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South?- Namas Adventure

Annapurna massif range seen from Pokhara. Annapurna south (left), Machhapuchre Fish tail (middle), Annapurna 1, Annapurna 4, Annapurna 2 and Annapurna 3.

The Annapurna Range, with its towering peaks and breathtaking landscapes, has long captivated mountaineers in search of the ultimate challenge. From the notorious dangers of Annapurna 1 to the awe-inspiring beauty of Annapurna South, and from the treacherous slopes of Annapurna 2 to the demanding ascent of Annapurna 3, capped by the elusive and shy summit of Annapurna 4, each peak holds its own tale of triumph, endurance, and exploration. But how many have successfully conquered these majestic giants?

In this blog, we delve into the total number of summit records on Annapurna 1, 2, 3, 4, and South.

SUMMITS (1955 -2024)

Annapurna 1, 8091M: 476 Summits

Annapurna 2, 7937M: 16 Summits

Annapurna 3, 7555M: 34 Summits

Annapurna 4, 7525M: 138 Summits

Annapurna South, 7219M: 35 Summits

The Annapurna Range stands as one of the least climbed and most revered regions in the Himalayas. While the Khumbu region draws the majority of climbers to its towering peaks, the Annapurna range offers something different—a raw, untamed experience reserved for those seeking true wilderness and personal discovery.

In the modern era, where accolades and records often take precedence, the essence of mountaineering can sometimes be lost. But climbing in the Annapurnas isn’t about simply conquering a summit; it’s about embracing the journey, the hardships, and the introspection that comes with each step. These remote peaks demand respect, and the path to the top is often a deeply personal one.

The challenge of the Annapurna climbs lies not just in their technical difficulty, but in the solitude and purity they offer. With fewer climbers and less attention, these mountains become a sanctuary for true explorers, where every ascent feels like a pioneering achievement. You may even find yourself among the few who have reached these exclusive summits, but that isn't the ultimate goal.

For those seeking even more, we invite you to look beyond Annapurna. Western Nepal offers another realm of untouched beauty and challenging climbs. Dhaulagiri and Putha Hiunchuli, towering and remote, present some of the most pristine and unexplored expeditions in the Himalayas. However, that’s a journey deserving of its own story—one we’ll dive into in a different article.

Mountaineering is, at its core, about falling in love with the process—the struggle, the beauty, and the unpredictability of the climb. In the Annapurnas, the journey will shape you far more than the destination. And that is the heart of what climbing in these majestic mountains is truly about.

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NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM

NAMAS team near the final section of Annapurna 4 summit, Annapurna 2, 7937M summit seen behind .

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How Much Does It Cost to Climb Mount Everest?  - Namas Adventure

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How Much Does It Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - Namas Adventure

How Much Does It Cost to Climb Mount Everest?

If you've ever dreamed of conquering the world's highest peak, understanding the financial commitment is crucial. Climbing Mount Everest offers unparalleled challenges and rewards, and Namas Adventure provides two distinct programs to suit your needs: the Standard Program and the Express Program. Let's break down the costs and inclusions for these popular Everest climbing programs.

Everest Expedition Overview

Namas Adventure offers two tailored programs for climbing Mount Everest:

These programs cater to different needs, budgets, and time constraints, ensuring a suitable option for every climber.

Standard Everest Expedition Costs

The Standard Everest Expedition is a comprehensive package designed for climbers seeking thorough support. The costs are divided into three tiers:

  • Tier 1: $85,500 per person

  • Tier 2: $73,000 per person

  • Tier 3: $67,000 per person (does not include helicopter services)

Inclusions:

  • Permit and Fees: This covers the mandatory climbing permit from the Nepalese government.

  • Guiding Services: Experienced Sherpa guides with IFMGA qualifications or local NNMGA guides with over five summits.

  • Helicopter Services: Included in Tier 1 and Tier 2 services for transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, and Base Camp. Rest days in BC - Namche - BC

  • Accommodation: Well-equipped base camps and higher camps for comfortable resting.

  • Meals: All meals during the expedition, from base camp to higher camps.

  • Logistics and Equipment: Essential climbing gear, supplemental oxygen, and other necessary equipment.

  • Medical Support: Comprehensive medical facilities and evacuation services.

  • More inclusion information on our website - Click here

Exclusions:

  • International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.

  • Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.

  • Extra Days: Additional charges for unforeseen delays.

Everest Express Expedition Costs

The Everest Express Expedition is designed for climbers with limited time but still wanting a robust experience.

Cost: From $95,000 per person.

Inclusions:

  • Permit and Fees: Climbing permit and related fees.

  • Guiding Services: Highly experienced IFMGA guides and additional support from Sherpa staff.

  • Specialized Pre-Acclimatization Training: 10 to 12 weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance.

  • Helicopter Services: Transportation between Kathmandu, Lukla, Lobuche, and Base Camp.

  • Luxury Accommodation: Upgraded and private camps for enhanced comfort.

  • Meals: High-standard dining options throughout the expedition.

  • Advanced Logistics: Expedited support, more than 20+ oxygen bottles, and additional amenities.

  • Medical Support: Enhanced medical facilities and faster evacuation services.

  • More inclusion information on our website - Click here

Exclusions:

  • International Travel: Flights to Nepal are not included.

  • Personal Expenses: Travel insurance, tips, and personal gear.

  • Additional Days: Extra costs for unforeseen delays.

Additional Costs

From $10,000 - $20,000+

  • International Flights: $1,000 - $10,000, depending on the class of travel.

  • Travel Insurance: $2000+ Varies based on insurance companies; must for high-altitude climbing and evacuation.

  • Personal Gear: $10,000 - $20,000 for high-quality clothing and specialized equipment.

  • Internet at Base Camp: $300+ for internet cards.

  • Additional Supplemental Oxygen: $800 per bottle.

  • Summit Bonuses: $1,500 - $3,500 per guide.

  • Group Tips: $500 - $1000 per person. Customary for support guides and kitchen staff.

  • Training and Preparation: $3,000+ for personal trainers and mountaineering courses.

  • High altitude Meal: $250+ Dried frozen meals, bars, snacks,

  • Lhotse 8516M Add-On: $18,000 for an additional 8000M climb.

Conclusion

Climbing Mount Everest is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that comes with significant costs. The Standard Everest Expedition offers a comprehensive approach at a more accessible price point, while the Everest Express Expedition provides a luxurious and expedited time-efficient option. Both programs ensure a pathway to achieving your mountaineering dreams with varying levels of support and amenities.

For more detailed information, including booking and itinerary details, visit Namas Adventure’s Everest Expedition Page and Namas Adventure’s Everest Express Expedition Page.

Embarking on an Everest climb is a monumental decision, and understanding the costs involved is the first step towards reaching your summit.

Namas Founder - Bisesh. Everest Summit 2024 Spring (May 20th)

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Everything You Need to Know About the Annapurna 1, 8091M Expedition

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Everything You Need to Know About the Annapurna 1, 8091M Expedition

Everything You Need to Know About the Annapurna 1, 8091M Expedition

Annapurna 1, standing at 8,091 meters (26,545 feet), is the 10th highest peak in the world and is renowned for being one of the most challenging 8000M+ expeditions. Climbing this peak is a significant achievement that demands extensive preparation, endurance, and skill. Successful expeditions to Annapurna one have become more frequent, but the mountain remains one of the most difficult among the 8000-meter peaks. This comprehensive guide will cover everything you need to know about the Annapurna one expedition, including the best time to climb, costs, unique offerings by Namas Adventure, historical context, and essential logistics.

When is the Best Time to Climb Annapurna 1?

Spring (March-May) is considered the best time to climb Annapurna 1. During this period, the weather is relatively stable, climbing conditions are optimal, and temperatures are more manageable, reducing the risk of severe weather disruptions. The clear skies and favorable conditions make this the ideal window for a successful summit.

Cost of Annapurna 1 Expedition

Our cost for the Annapurna 1 expedition is detailed on our (website - click here). This includes premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, focusing on your safety, successful summit, experiencing local culture, and having fun. Here’s a detailed list of what's included in your booking:

  • Certified Guide Leader: Certified guide leader to ensure safety and expert guidance.

  • Helicopter Services: Shared helicopter services from Pokhara to Annapurna 1 base camp and from Base Camp to Pokhara.

  • Accommodations: Two nights before the expedition in Kathmandu and one night after the expedition in Pokhara and Kathmandu hotel.

  • Permits and Fees: All necessary trekking and climbing permits.

  • Gear and Equipment: Expedition tents (single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps) and other essential climbing equipment.

  • Oxygen Supply: 2 X supplemental oxygen cylinders for client use.

  • Meals and Logistics: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner on trek and expedition days, along with lodge accommodation during the trek.

  • Support Team: A head chef and kitchen helpers, additional Sherpa support, porters, and a comprehensive first aid kit.

  • Waste Management: Dedicated high-altitude porters to transport waste from higher camps to Base Camp for proper disposal.

For a detailed breakdown of what is included in the cost, please refer to the Annapurna 1 expedition PDF

Unique Value proposition by Namas Adventure

Namas Adventure distinguishes itself with a strong commitment to responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountaineering practices. Here are some key highlights of what sets us apart:

Annapurna specialist: Our team at Namas Adventure excels in extreme altitude mountaineering, especially within the Annapurna region. With unparalleled local knowledge and highly experienced guides, we are among the best teams to climb with on Annapurna 1.

Local Expertise: We possess extensive local expertise and strong connections to ensure a seamless and efficient expedition. Our seasoned guiding team is integral to the smooth running of your journey, allowing you to focus on the climb and the experience.

Individualized Preparations/Planning: Members participating in our Annapurna 1 team undergo strict pre-qualification checks. Once members sign up, we gain deeper insights into each client's needs and create personalized preparation plans. We understand that each member has a unique set of strengths, weaknesses, and requirements, so our approach is tailored to address these individual aspects effectively.

Premium client Services: To enhance safety and comfort, we provide convenient helicopter services, including flights to base camp after acclimatization hikes in the Annapurna region. Upon completion of the expedition, we offer a return from base camp to Pokhara, ensuring a stress-free travel experience.

Waste Management: Namas Adventure implements strict waste management protocols to minimize our environmental impact. This includes the use of WAGBAGs at higher camps and transporting waste to designated landfill sites, preserving the pristine beauty of the mountains.

Additional guide support system,: We prioritize personalized attention and safety with a high guide-to-client ratio, 1:1 guide-to-client arrangement with additional support Sherpa team in the team. Additional Sherpa support further ensures that every client receives the guidance and care needed for a successful and memorable expedition.

History, Significance, and the First Ascent

The first ascent of Annapurna 1 was achieved by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. This historic climb marked the first successful summit of an 8000-meter peak.

High Camps and Acclimatization Strategy

Annapurna 1 expeditions typically have four high camps:

  • Base Camp (4,190m/13,747ft)

  • Camp I (5,150m/16,896ft)

  • Camp II (5,700m/18,700ft)

  • Camp III (6,500m/21,325)

  • Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)

  • Summit (8,091m/26,545ft)

Our team will conduct an acclimatisation hike before reaching the base camp and then conduct two rotations between camps 1,2 and 3. The most common route to the summit of Annapurna 1 is the Northwest Ridge route.

Which is the most dangerous section in the Annapurna 1 expedition?

The most dangerous section of the Annapurna 1 climb lies between Camps 2, 3, and 4. This area is particularly hazardous due to its vertical geography, which includes avalanche-prone zones, hard blue ice, and massive hanging seracs, making the ascent extremely challenging.

The steep and exposed south face of Annapurna 1 rises 3,000 meters from the base camp to the summit, making it one of the most perilous climbs in the world. This face is notorious for its high risk of avalanches and rockfalls, posing significant dangers to climbers. The steep terrain, combined with frequent avalanches in this zone, further increases the difficulty and risk involved in the ascent.

What can climbers expect during the summit push on Annapurna 1?

The summit push on Annapurna 1 begins from Camp 4 at 7,400 meters. Climbers start their ascent in the early hours, navigating steep, icy slopes under the cover of darkness to avoid daytime avalanche risks. The route involves traversing hard blue ice and climbing through a series of seracs, which are massive, unstable blocks of ice. As daylight breaks, climbers encounter the steepest sections, requiring technical ice-climbing skills. The final approach to the summit is a narrow ridge with breathtaking views on either side, leading to the peak at 8,091 meters. This gruelling and exposed climb tests every ounce of endurance and skill, culminating in the ultimate reward of standing atop one of the world’s highest and most challenging peaks.

Preparation for Annapurna 1 Expedition

Previous Experience Required

Climbers need significant high-altitude experience to attempt Annapurna one. Previous ascents of several 4000M - 6000M climbs and at least one or more 7000-meter peaks are highly recommended. Experience on other 8000M climbs is a bonus. This experience helps climbers understand the physical and mental demands of high-altitude climbing.

Training and Fitness Requirements

Climbers must be in peak physical condition to attempt Annapurna 1. A training plan should focus on endurance, strength, and flexibility. Essential components of the training regimen include:

  • Long-Distance Running: To build cardiovascular endurance.

  • Hiking with Heavy Packs: To simulate the weight carried during the climb.

  • Strength Training: To build the muscle necessary for climbing.

  • Flexibility Exercises: To maintain agility and prevent injuries.

Technical Skills

Confidence in essential climbing skills, such as ascending and traversing with crampons, using ice axes, and being proficient with rope knots, is crucial for the Annapurna one expedition. Mastery of techniques like jummaring and ascending steep, exposed, and uncomfortable sections is also vital. Whether climbing in the alpine style or classic mountaineering style, having technical knowledge and experience with larger peaks is necessary for a successful Annapurna climb.

Mental Preparation

High-altitude mountaineering is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Experienced climbers recognize that both success and failure are possible outcomes, and understanding this reality is essential. Experience plays a crucial role in building the mental resilience needed to face unforeseen challenges in the mountains.

On Annapurna 1, you will encounter tough climbing environments and difficult days that may make you question your decision to climb. During these times, it is vital to stay mentally strong and sharp, pushing yourself to go that extra inch to successfully and safely complete your expedition. Techniques such as meditation, visualization, and stress management can further enhance mental resilience, helping you navigate the challenges of high-altitude climbing.

Gear and Equipment

Investing in quality gear is recommended at any given expedition and Annapurna 1 is no ordinary case. Please find all the expedition gear required for the Annapurna 1 expedition in the link below.

Safety and Risk Management

Annapurna 1 has one of the highest fatality rates among the 8000-meter peaks due to its extreme altitude, avalanche-prone slopes and technical challenges. Ensuring safety involves:

  • Thorough Preparation: Detailed planning and rigorous training.

  • Experienced Guides: Hiring experienced guides with a proven track record. Especially in Nepal, local guides do the heavy work and you need a team of Sherpa guides who can do both the heavy lifting and safe guiding.

  • Safety Protocols: Strict adherence to safety protocols and being prepared for emergencies.

  • Health Monitoring: Regular health checks and immediate descent in case of severe altitude sickness symptoms.

Key Achievements and Records

The range of ages among those who have climbed Annapurna 1 is staggering. The youngest person to climb Annapurna 1 was Nima Rinji Sherpa at 17 years old, while the oldest was 60-year-old Carlos Soria Fontan from Spain. Several disabled climbers have also reached the summit, showcasing the inclusivity and determination within the mountaineering community.

Notable Incidents and Fatalities

Annapurna 1 has seen many fatalities over the years, primarily due to avalanches and falls. Despite these risks, the mountain continues to attract climbers from around the world. The fatality rate has been dropping in recent years due to improved safety measures and better preparation.

Importance of LOCAL Experienced Guides

Local experienced guides are essential for navigating the technical challenges and ensuring safety on Annapurna 1. According to Nepalese law, a local guide is required for high-altitude expeditions above 6,000 meters. Even experienced climbers benefit greatly from the local knowledge and expertise that these guides provide.

Sherpa guides are particularly vital in these expeditions, as they handle most of the heavy lifting, carrying all necessary logistics to higher camps 1-4, and play a key role in guiding clients. Their strength and expertise, along with their ability to coordinate with other team members, are crucial for the success of the Annapurna expedition or any extreme climbing endeavour.

In contrast, Western guides do not carry loads to the higher camps, highlighting the unique and indispensable role that Sherpa guides play in high-altitude climbing.

Nutrition and Hydration

Proper nutrition and hydration are crucial for maintaining energy and health during an expedition. Each climber should understand their personal meal plans for the higher camps. Although it can be challenging to eat at high altitudes when losing appetite and the challenges of cooking proper meals, freeze-dried meals, snack/energy bars, protein powders, and vitamin supplements are excellent alternatives.

Your guiding team will prepare water at the higher camps, but it's essential for climbers to drink 4-6 litres of water daily to stay hydrated and aid acclimatization. Beverages like Coke and fruit juices can also be helpful and enjoyable for staying hydrated and maintaining energy levels.

Insurance and Emergency Evacuation

Comprehensive travel and medical insurance are essential, covering high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuations. Helicopter evacuation is the primary method of emergency transport in the Annapurna region. Climbers should ensure their insurance policy includes this coverage. Along with evacuations, your insurance should cover the following

  • Cancellation or curtailment

  • Helicopter rescue

  • Repatriation

  • The altitude that you are expected to attain

  • Grade of trek/climb/expedition

  • Medical cover

Next climbing goals after Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition

K2 8611M

K2 8611M

K2 stands as a formidable challenge following the Annapurna 1 expedition.

Challenge yourself to a new level with a combined 8,000-meter expedition to both Everest and Lhotse in a single journey.

Or take on the challenge of a double Annapurna climb by summiting both Annapurna 2 and 4, part of the stunning Annapurna massif.

Conclusion

Climbing Annapurna one, 8091M is a monumental achievement that requires meticulous preparation, unwavering determination, and respect for the mountain. With Namas Adventure, climbers can focus on the challenge and enjoyment of the climb, knowing that every detail is taken care of. Proper planning, expert guidance, and a commitment to safety and sustainability ensure a successful and memorable expedition.

For more information and to book your expedition, visit our Annapurna 1, 8091M expedition page.

“On Annapurna, every step tests your limits, but it's in those moments of doubt and struggle that you discover your true strength and resilience. The mountain demands respect, and in return, it offers the rarest of rewards: a deeper understanding of yourself.” - Maurice Herzog, Annapurna, First Conquest

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Visual journey Everest 8848.86 Expedition Nepal- NAMAS ADVENTURE

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Visual journey Everest 8848.86 Expedition Nepal- NAMAS ADVENTURE

Visual journey EVEREST 8848.86 Expedition nepal

Early reminder - Click to enlarge on images

Climbing Mount Everest is not just an expedition; it's a breathtaking journey through some of the most visually stunning landscapes on Earth. From the ascent through the Khumbu Icefall's towering seracs to the vast, snow-covered expanse of the Western Cwm, each phase of the climb offers unique, awe-inspiring vistas. The thrill of ascending past the South Col into the thin air of the "Death Zone" combines a mix of fear, exhilaration, and awe, as climbers are surrounded by the world's highest peaks piercing the sky. Reaching the summit rewards adventurers with a panoramic spectacle of rugged peaks under a pristine sky, where the sheer majesty of nature is palpable, making the grueling climb a profoundly transformative experience.

Lukla to Lobuche village

Our Everest expedition journey begins in the cultural city of Kathmandu. Here, we meet the team, conduct expedition briefings, and perform a final gear check. After two days, we fly to Lukla via helicopter and start our beautiful trek through the Khumbu region, visiting picturesque villages like Namche, Phortse, Pangboche, Dingboche, and finally Lobuche.

Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu via helicopter

Lobuche East Acclimatisation

Our first acclimatization rotation is at Lobuche East Peak, reaching an altitude of 6,119 meters. This climb helps us practice technical skills and properly acclimatize before heading to Everest Base Camp.

Learn more about Lobuche East 6119M peak climbing here.

First Everest acclimatisation, Lobuche East Peak 6119M

Base Camp 5436M

Base Camp is our home for the entire expedition. We conduct puja ceremonies, and acclimatization rotations, and enjoy a well-equipped camp setup. Facilities include a kitchen, dining area, rest dome tent, communication tent, and toilets. We will also acclimatize at Kalapatthar and Pumori High Camp (5,600m) while waiting for the summit ropes to be fixed.

Khumbu Ice Fall

Traning at Khumbu Ice Fall

The SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) team fixes the icefall route, and we spend a day training near our base camp. We practice climbing techniques, ladder navigation, jumaring, and abseiling. This refresher training ends with some fun ice climbing on the glacier.

Ice fall route to camp 1 (Max 8 hours)

Once the SPCC announces that the route is fixed, we begin our climb through the icefall to Camp 1. Our first rotation helps us acclimatize and familiarize ourselves with the challenging icefall route.

Camp 1, 6100M

Camp 1 is set up on terraced ice walls, offering stunning views of Everest 8848.86, Lhotse 8516M, and Nuptse 7861M. We spend two nights acclimatizing here before moving to Camp 2.

Camp 1 to Camp 2, 6500M (4 - 5 hours)

The climb to Camp 2 is relatively easy, following a zigzag flat surface and avoiding crevasses. We aim to reach Camp 2 early to avoid the intense sunlight.

Camp 2 - Camp 3, 7100M+ (4-6 hours)

The climb to Camp 3 starts with a flat hike to the base of the Lhotse wall, followed by a steep, vertical ascent. Camp 3 is set up halfway through the Lhotse face wall.

Tiny black dots of climbers moving to camp 3

Camp 3 - Camp 4, 7950M (8-10 hours)

We begin a further vertical climb to Camp 4, passing the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur. This is a tough day with little opportunity to rest

Everest Camp 4

Camp 4 - South Balcony, 8400m (4 - 6 hours)

Starting early, we push for the summit, moving through the Everest South Col route. The views from the South Balcony are spectacular, offering a glimpse of the Tibetan plateau and the Himalayas.

Camp Hillary Ridge, 8790m (3-4 hours)

The climb above the South Balcony towards the South Summit is all uphill before reaching the iconic Hillary Ridge. The Hillary Ridge is exposed and uneven. Climbing higher up the ridge leads to the summit of Everest, the highest point on Earth. The panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, and Kanchenjunga are unparalleled, making the grueling climb worthwhile.

Summit 8848.86M

Summit of Everest 8848.86M

Descend. Going up is optional, coming down is mandatory.

Reaching the summit of Everest 8848.86, the highest point on our planet, is an unparalleled experience. On a clear summit day, the panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, Kanchenjunga, and countless other 7000m and 6000m peaks are truly breathtaking. This unique feeling is known only to those who have made the climb.

We offer exclusive small team expeditions (8-12 climbers) both Standard and Express expedition options on both the South and North sides of Everest (beginning in 2026). If climbing Everest is your dream, join our dedicated and expert team to make it a reality.

Is summiting Everest/Lhotse your ultimate dream goal adventure? We have departures every spring. For more information on our Everest expedition or any of our other expeditions, please visit our website.

Feel free to call or WhatsApp us at +1 347-476-9547, or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com. We look forward to helping you achieve your mountaineering dreams.

Let’s write you top of the world story.

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Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition - Namas Adventure

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Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about

MT. Everest 8848M Expedition

Note - Mt. Everest is officially a little higher. 8848.86M / 29,031.69FT (2020 new measurement)

Everest Expedition 8848M

1. When is the best time to climb Mt. Everest?

Spring (April-May) is the best time to climb Everest. All major commercial expeditions are organised during spring.

2. How much does Mt. Everest expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

With our team, Namas Adventure team, your Everest expedition costs (website - click here). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. 🚁 Helicopter services to Lukla and rest day rotations BC - Namche Bazaar - BC and return to Lukla after your summit. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture, and having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holidays and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader

  • 🚁 Shared helicotper Kathmandu to Lukla. BC to Kathmandu and to Kathmandu.

  • 🚁 to Namche Bazzar for 3-4 days and fly back to BC

  • ✈️ Kathmandu or Ramechap - Lukla - Kathmandu or Ramechap (for members without helicopter option)

  • $1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff).Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)

  • Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu - Lukla. Base Camp - Namche Bazaar - BC. Base Camp - Lukla (Once the expedition ends)

  • Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

  • 2:1 or 1:1 Guide/client ratio

  • 1 Additional Sherpa Support for every 2 climbing members

  • Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members)

  • 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. Single room. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

  • All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

  • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

  • Expedition tents, a single tent in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas

  • 8 or 16 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use

  • 60 kgs personal weight

  • Meals for Camps 1 - 4

  • Burners and expedition equipment

  • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone

  • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

  • Lodge accommodation during the trek

  • Porters per guest

  • The arrival pick up and departure

  • Basic First aid kit

  • Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

3. How is namas operating Mt. Everest expedition differently?

We will have a dedicated high-altitude porter(s) to transport our waste from Camps 1 and 2 to Base Camp. The client-leading Sherpa team will assist in bringing the waste down from Camps 3 and 4 to Camp 2 during rotations and the summit descent.

WAGBAG

All members are required to bring a wag bag for use at higher camps and to carry their wag bags down to Base Camp for proper disposal. While this might seem standard practice, not every company does this. We have been implementing this protocol since our first Everest expedition.

Once waste reaches Base Camp, it will be securely sealed and transported via yak down to the valley for proper disposal at a designated landfill site. We firmly believe that when conducting expedition operations in our mountains, we have a moral duty to protect the environment and keep it clean for future generations.

There is a growing concern about pollution and waste being left on the mountains. This is a legitimate concern that we share. In line with our commitment to sustainable values, we are implementing these waste management strategies and continuously improving our program to address this issue.

We appreciate your cooperation in maintaining the pristine condition of our beautiful mountains.

4. The first ascent and debate

Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition led by Lord John Hunt from the Nepal south col side. There is also the debate on whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the top of Everest from North side (tibet), on the final push of the 1924 expedition. They went missing soon after. No one knows whether they reached the top, a feat that, if proved, would rewrite climbing history.

5. The oldest and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest

The range of ages among those who have climbed Everest is staggering. The oldest person was Yuichiro Miura from Japan at 80 in 2013, while the youngest was American Jordan Romero at 13 in 2010.

A number of disabled climbers have reached the summit, including blind American Erik Weihenmayer in 2001 and double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand in 2006.

6. How many people have died on Everest?

Sadly 308 people have died on Everest, between 1922 and 2021. 165 have died on the Nepali side, while the remainder died on the Tibetan North side.

On 18 April 2014, 16 high-altitude local workers, including 13 Sherpas, were killed in the Khumbu Icefall below Camp 1, following a serac collapse on the mountain’s west shoulder. It was the worst single loss of life in the mountain’s history.

Despite this tragic loss of life, the fatality rate on Everest has been dropping in recent years, both for foreign climbers and hired high-altitude workers. According to the Himalayan Database – a useful resource for research on Everest – there were 61 deaths between 1950 and 1999 among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 1.52%. Between 2000 and 2014 there were 31 fatalities among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 0.57% – based on the number of journeys through the icefall.

7. Who holds the most Everest summit record?

Nepalese Sherpas hold the record for the most ascents. Kami Rita Sherpa X 29 summits and on second Ngima Nuru Sherpa X 22 summits.

8. How many climbing routes are there to climb Everest?

There are seventeen different routes to climb Everest. The two most famous and standard routes are South Col from Nepal and North Ridge from Tibet.

More detailed climbing routes on Alan Arnett's blog: https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12/28/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2018-edition/

Image from Alan Arnett Blog site

Image from Alan Arnett Blog site

9. What experience do climbers need to climb Mt. Everest? Are guides necessary to climb Mt. Everest?

If you are a total beginner then you will definitely want to check out our Road to Everest program.

Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 7000M and 1 X 8000M+ of any alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mt. Everest. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get the wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.

For intermediate experience level climbers with no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience we highly suggest you build and gain the right experience before committing to climb Everest. Patience and right skill and experience is key and mostly the difference between death and survival in Everest.

Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.

10. How many high camps are there on Mount Everest?

Strategically with Everest expedition we will have 4 high altitude camps.

  • Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)

  • Camp 2 (6400M/20,997ft)

  • Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M/23,622+ft)

  • South Col or Camp 4 (7906M/25,938ft)

11. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Mt. Everest expedition?

Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.

On our Everest Expedition, our team will climb Lobuche East 6119M for their acclimatization/training peak and we will strategically conduct several rotations between Camp 1 - 3 to acclimatise properly.

During the main expedition, our base camp will be fully stationed and extra facilities will be available. We will conduct training day and several rotation to acclimatise during our expedition. More details are on our Everest climbing strategy.

Note - If you want to shorten your Everest (Express) itinerary to 45 days Namas team can make those arrangements.

12. What training is required/experience for Mt. Everest expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

Everest is the ultimate climb for many and by no means is an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M and 1X 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the ice fall or even the high altitudes.

We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

13. How hard is Mt. Everest climbing expedition?

Everest expedition is graded at E / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).

We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 45 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.

When we depart from Everest base camp our first objective challenge of navigating the great Khumbu icefall begins, mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, climbing on ladders just between the crevasse and ascending up the huge icefall to camp 1. As we go into higher elevation breathing will be challenging but with proper rotation acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.

Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment. You can expect to climb around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp 3 or camp 2 and then descend towards base camp the next day. Our teams will already have set up Everest base camp and the remaining 4 camps before client members reach there on their rotation and climbing days. Training walking on ladders, ice climbing and rotations are all meant to prepare you and acclimatize you for your summit. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges. 

What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mt. Everest expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mt. Everest expedition climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Boots for Everest Expedition

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

14. What types of foods are available during Mt. Everest Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition

On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our Everest base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.

In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

15. What trip insurance will I need for Mt. Everest Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon. 

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

16. Next climbing goals after Mt. Everest Expedition climbing

Everest expedition being one of the most sought out expedition is also one of the expedition with the most organised facilitated expedition. After completing your Everest expedition successfully there are are other mind boggling and challenging/adventure filled expedition which we can recommend.

1. Annapurna 1, 8091m

The iconic Annapurna 1, is known for being one of the difficult and dangerous 8000er to climb.

2. K2, 8611M

K2, another dangeours and difficult second highest peak in the world.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Other related articles:

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A Guide to Climbing at-least one 8000M+ Mountain peak - Namas Adventure

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A Guide to Climbing at-least one 8000M+ Mountain peak - Namas Adventure

Manaslu 8163M. Considered one of the lesser difficult 8000er

A GUIDE TO CLIMBING AT LEAST ONE 8000M+ MOUNTAIN PEAK

How can I prepare to climb an 8000m peak? I aspire to summit at least one 8000m peak. What steps should I take to fulfill this dream of mine? These are common inquiries we receive from passionate adventurers seeking guidance on their journey to conquer the world's highest peaks.

Is it your dream to climb at least one 8000M+ in your lifetime? If so, then in this blog article we aim to guide you towards how to prepare for an 8000M+ climb through preparatory stages, and which 8000m peak should undoubtedly be on your initial list.

Embarking on the journey to summit an 8000m peak is a dream cherished by many adventurers. In this comprehensive guide, we provide expert advice to prepare you for this monumental endeavor and recommend the ideal peaks to start your journey. Pushing your limits and summiting one of the 8000M peaks on Earth can be an incredibly rewarding and life-changing experience.

Setting Your Goals High: Summiting an 8000m peak epitomizes the ultimate test of endurance, skill, and mental resilience. Few achievements rival the sense of accomplishment gained from conquering these towering giants. By setting your sights on an 8000m peak, you embark on an extraordinary adventure that promises unforgettable experiences and lifelong memories.

Preparation Is Key: Climbing an 8000m peak demands meticulous planning, rigorous training, and expert guidance. Before undertaking such a formidable challenge, it is imperative to undergo comprehensive mountaineering training and seek guidance from seasoned professionals. Additionally, climbing several 4000m-6000m peaks is essential to hone your skills and build confidence for the ultimate ascent.

Gradual Progression: Success in mountaineering requires patience and gradual progression. Before attempting an 8000m expedition, it is advisable to summit at least one 7000m or 7500m peak to acclimatize to higher altitudes and assess your readiness. This incremental approach allows you to gain valuable experience and confidence before tackling the grandeur of an 8000m peak.

Endurance & Strength is Essential: Achieving success at high altitudes necessitates exceptional physical fitness and endurance. Incorporate regular endurance, muscular endurance, and strength training into your routine to build stamina and resilience. Activities such as hiking, running, cycling, and weight training are invaluable in preparing your body for the rigors of high-altitude climbing.

Mind Over Matter: Mental preparedness is just as crucial as physical strength in the realm of mountaineering. Cultivating a positive mindset, envisioning success, and mentally preparing for the trials ahead are paramount. Maintaining focus, determination, and resilience amidst adversity is key to overcoming obstacles and inching closer to your summit goal. While these may seem like clichés, they hold immense significance during the final stages of safely completing your ascent of an 8000m peak.

So, which 8000M+ should you climb? Below are our recommendations

Choosing Your Peak: For climbers with minimum prerequisites, Cho Oyu (8201m) or Manaslu (8163m) stands out as the ideal 8000M mountain expedition. Amongst 8000M mountains, these peaks are renowned for their least difficult terrain, lower fatal rate, and higher success rates, making them favorable choices. However, it's essential to acknowledge the inherent challenges of any mountain expedition and approach each ascent with respect and caution. No mountain expedition should be taken lightly.

Consider Everest: For seasoned climbers with great fitness profiles, with a proven track record of conquering numerous endurance events such as marathons, ultras, and Ironman competitions, coupled with successful ascents on multiple 4000m, 6000m, and 7000m expeditions, Mount Everest beckons as the ultimate challenge. Everest calls upon those who are prepared to push their boundaries and stand atop the world's highest summit.

With an ever-growing community of climbers, well-established teams, and increasingly safer routes compared to other 8000m expeditions, Everest stands as an exceptional choice for individuals possessing exceptional physical fitness, unwavering mental toughness, a wealth of climbing experiences, and the financial means to embark on a guided expedition.

Moreover, considering the inclusion of Lhotse 8516M alongside Everest offers a compelling proposition. With approximately 70% of the route overlapping, this can fit right in the mix for double 8000er.

In Conclusion: Embarking on the journey to climb an 8000m peak is an extraordinary endeavor that promises unparalleled rewards. While meticulous planning, physical fitness, and preparation are essential, it's when the challenges become most daunting that your mental fortitude truly shines. Battling every inch of the mountain, refusing to surrender easily, and persevering through each demanding step are the ultimate keys to success.

Though these principles may seem straightforward in theory, they demand unwavering self-discipline, meticulous planning, relentless self-motivation, and a steadfast commitment to gradual progress from the very moment you commit to pursuing your dream of conquering an 8000m peak. Remember, the journey to success may be challenging, but with unwavering dedication and perseverance, you can ascend to the pinnacle of achievement.

At Namas Adventure, we are dedicated to helping adventurers like yourself turn their dreams into reality and conquer the world's highest peaks. Let's begin by discussing your plans and aspirations, and together, we'll take the necessary steps forward. Allow our experienced team to guide you towards achieving your dream of summiting an 8000m mountain peak.

Your dream adventure awaits—let's make your 8000M dream a reality.

Live Your Story.


Expeditions Mentioned

INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING

IFMGA GUIDED 14 DAYS COURSE.

CHULU FAR EAST 6059M

6000M PEAK EXPEDITIONS

SOLO, COMBO OR THREE PEAKS

7000M EXPEDITIONS

BEGINNER. INTERMEDIATE & ADVANCED LEVEL 7000ER

CHO OYU 8201

MANASLU 8163M

EVEREST/LHOTSE


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Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what Makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition - Namas Adventure

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Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what Makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition.

In this blog article discover why climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th-highest mountain is considered one of the easier and safest 8000m peaks to climb:

  • Elevation - At 8,201m, Cho Oyu is in the lowest category of the 8000m peaks, so there is slightly less altitude to acclimatize to compared to giants like Everest (8,848m) or K2 (8,611m).

  • Standard Route - The normal West Ridge route is relatively straightforward, with no major technical sections or steep pitches. It involves mostly moderate to steep snow climbing.

  • Gradient - The slope gradients on the standard route don't exceed about 30 degrees, making it less steep than other major 8000ers.

  • Weather - Cho Oyu sees less severe weather compared to the peaks in the western Himalayas. The post-monsoon season has relatively stable weather.

  • Camps - There are only 3 camps from the Advanced base camp to the summit, limiting the amount of gear hauling required.

  • Sherpa Support - 1:1 Sherpa guide with additional Sherpa team for logistics support. Experienced Sherpa teams fix ropes and establish camps, providing crucial support.

  • Previous Experience mandatory checks- Most climbers tackle Cho Oyu after building experience on lower several 6000M and 7000m peaks first. The Chinese authorities are very strict when approving permits and only allow climbers with proof of a previous 7000M summit certificate to climb Cho Oyu.

  • Fatality Rate - Historically, Cho Oyu has had a lower death rate compared to other 8000ers. Proper preparation greatly minimizes risks.

In conclusion, Cho Oyu 8201M emerges as an attainable choice for climbers embarking on their first 8000m peak, thanks to its manageable technical difficulty, safely positioned higher camps, and the invaluable support of experienced Sherpa teams. While it offers a relatively lower fatality rate, it is crucial to approach Cho Oyu with the utmost respect and thorough training. Adequate preparation remains paramount to ensure a safe and successful climb.

Are you ready to embark on your dream of climbing an 8000M peak with the lowest fatality rate? Look no further than our Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition. We pride ourselves on keeping our team small and agile, ensuring a high-quality experience focused on your safety and summit achievement. Join us for an unforgettable adventure filled with exhilaration and camaraderie as we conquer Cho Oyu together.

Namas Adventure / Expedition Team

Live Your Story

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Annapurna IV 7525M expedition: Pre requisite experiences, fitness level, and skills requirement - Namas Adventure

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Annapurna IV 7525M expedition: Pre requisite experiences, fitness level, and skills requirement - Namas Adventure

Annapurna IV, Climbing high above camp 2

Annapurna iv 7525m Expedition

Experiences, Fitness, and Skills

What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Annapurna IV? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Annapurna IV?

To undertake a successful ascent of Annapurna IV, individuals must possess a solid foundation in high-altitude mountaineering and alpine-style climbing techniques. This encompasses a high level of proficiency in skills such as scrambling, traversing, and navigating steep and treacherous rocky or icy terrain. Additionally, climbers should be well-versed in the safe and effective use of fixed-line ropes and climbing equipment.

Furthermore, being acclimatized to and comfortable with the cold and harsh mountain conditions prevalent at high altitudes is of utmost importance. It is strongly advised that climbers have prior experience scaling peaks of several 4000M to 6000M elevations, as well as at least one expedition to a 7000-meter that involves technical climbing. This level of experience is crucial for adequately preparing for the challenges inherent in an Annapurna IV expedition.

Climbers with a proven history of successful high-altitude ascents are welcome to consult and undergo an evaluation by our team to assess their eligibility for the Annapurna IV expedition. We encourage climbers to provide us with their climbing portfolio, fitness routines, and expedition plans for a thorough evaluation. While it is important to acknowledge that Annapurna IV is comparatively less prone to objective dangers, it is crucial to recognize that this expedition presents its own set of distinctive challenges and potential hazards. Therefore, it is vital for individuals to be well-prepared and possess the necessary confidence to effectively manage the specific skills and conditions associated with this undertaking.

What are the prerequisites for climbing Annapurna IV?

Two or more 6000M peaks and one 7000M expedition. Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Himlung Himal, Baruntse (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9/5.10 (not a must but a bonus)
Individuals considering an ascent of Annapurna IV should possess a robust background in high-altitude climbing, including a track record of successful climbs on several peaks ranging from 4000 to 6000 meters, as well as at least one 7000-meter peak that requires semi-technical to technical climbing skills. Many climbers opt to include Annapurna IV in their mountaineering journey as a stepping stone to more challenging 8000-meter peaks like Mount Everest or K2. It should be noted that Annapurna IV is not a widely popular climb, making it an ideal expedition for those seeking a remote and less crowded alpine climbing experience.

Fitness level - 4

Our Annapurna IV mountain expedition requires participants to meet a fitness level of 4, indicating an exceptional overall fitness level that encompasses the ability to adapt to and acclimatize in high-altitude environments. This entails possessing a high degree of endurance, strength, and mental resilience, as well as the capacity to endure prolonged exposure to extreme weather conditions. Participants must also be prepared for the physical demands of carrying loads weighing between 8-12 kilograms over multiple days. Given the challenging nature of this expedition, previous experience in high-altitude climbing is highly recommended to adequately prepare both mentally and physically for the altitude and terrain challenges.

Preparing for the demanding conditions of Annapurna IV necessitates significant dedication and effort. Achieving the required fitness level requires a focus on developing high levels of endurance and strength.

As a general indicator of the fitness level required, it is recommended that individuals be capable of running a half marathon to a marathon distance or cycling for 5-6 hours. For those who prefer hiking, being able to carry a load of 25 to 30 kilograms and hike for over 6 hours is a suitable benchmark. Completing a triathlon is also a strong indicator of being in peak physical condition. Improving one's VO2 max is crucial.

In addition, implementing a well-rounded strength and muscle endurance training routine is essential. This can be achieved through various approaches, such as engaging in cross-fit sessions, high-intensity interval training (HIIT) sessions, and kettlebell training. It is important to note that such training should be done under the guidance of a professional trainer or coach to ensure it is tailored to the individual's specific needs and goals.

Skills to be learned.

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it really simple. So there are five basic skills you must - must know.

  1. Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.

  2. Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.

  3. Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.

  4. Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9 to 5.10. Indoors or outdoors. (For reference check out our - Alpine grading)

  5. Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

Participating in an Annapurna IV (7525M) expedition requires a solid foundation of previous high-altitude climbing experience and a high level of physical fitness. In addition, possessing advanced skills such as rope techniques, outdoor lead climbing, and ice climbing can greatly enhance your chances of success. If you don't have access to mountains in your local area, focusing on indoor and outdoor rock climbing can help you maintain your skills and fitness levels.

While commercial expeditions typically handle logistics, it is still important to be prepared and have a good understanding of the technical aspects of the climb. Thanks to the expertise and competence of Sherpa guide leaders in Nepal, summit attempts on Annapurna IV have become more attainable. It's worth noting that this expedition is not popular among climbers, and only a few teams will be attempting to climb this mountain. Your team should be prepared to fix ropes to the summit, and all members participating in the expedition must be physically and mentally ready to put in the hard work and push themselves to successfully and safely ascend this 7500-meter peak.

It's important to recognize that the success of an expedition relies on the competence of all team members, from operational management to field guides. Once you have enrolled and possess the necessary skills and experience, it is crucial to commit to a physical training regimen to ensure you are fully prepared for the demands of the expedition.

Let’s go climbing. Live Your Story

Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M

Are you ready to take on the magnificent Annapurna IV 7525M in Nepal? If you're eager to take on this breathtaking and demanding peak, and perhaps set your sights even higher on other majestic mountains, the passionate team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is here to make your dream come true! We are thrilled to offer our assistance and answer any questions you may have about the expedition. To get in touch, simply email us at bookings@namasadventure.com or give us a call/WhatsApp at +447446976060. Our dedicated team members are eagerly waiting to help you embark on this incredible journey.

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The Best Spring Climbing Expeditions in Nepal: 7000M, 7500M and 8000M - Namas Adventure

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The Best Spring Climbing Expeditions in Nepal: 7000M, 7500M and 8000M - Namas Adventure

The Best Spring Climbing Expeditions in Nepal: 7000M, 7500M, and 8000M level

Spring is an excellent time for climbing in Nepal, as the weather is generally clear and stable, and the days are longer. There are several popular peaks to tackle during this season, including some of the highest and most challenging mountains in the world. If you're planning a spring climbing expedition in Nepal, here are a few options to consider and you could join us every spring

Mount Everest 8848M and Lhotse 8516M

This is the crown jewel of Nepal's climbing scene, and it's no surprise that many people flock to the country specifically to tackle this iconic peak. Spring is the best and the busiest season on Everest, as the weather is typically the most favorable. However, keep in mind that it's also the most crowded and competitive time to climb, as there are many other teams vying for the same summit window.

Lhotse is located just next to Everest and shares the same base camp and higher camps up to camp 3, so it's a convenient option for climbers who are already in the area. Many teams and our team offer Lhotse as an add-on or as a solo expedition. Lhotse is the fourth-highest peak in the world, and it offers a challenging and rewarding climb for those who are up to the task.

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 to 60 days

Mt. Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Standing at 8463 meters tall, this peak is located in the northeast region of the country and sits on the border of Nepal and China. As one of the eight-thousanders, Makalu offers a more technically challenging climb than Mt. Everest and is known for its lack of crowds. The spring season is the best time to tackle Makalu, as the weather and snow conditions are generally favorable. With its distinctive pyramid shape and beautiful views, Makalu is a must-climb for those looking to avoid the crowds of the more popular Everest expedition or for those seeking a new challenge after climbing the world's highest peak.

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 - 45 Days

Located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, Ama Dablam is a beautiful and technically challenging peak that is often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas." It's a popular choice for experienced climbers who are looking for a less crowded alternative to Everest, and the spring season offers the best weather for a successful ascent.

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 21 - 30 Days

Annapurna I 8091M

Spring is one of the best times to take on the Annapurna massif range. Annapurna I is the tenth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8019 meters tall. Located in north central Nepal, it is part of the Annapurna mountain range and is considered one of the most dangerous peaks to climb due to its steep and unpredictable terrain. Despite the risks, many climbers are drawn to Annapurna I each year due to its beautiful views and challenging routes

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 - 45 days

Annapurna IV (7525 meter) is a lesser-known peak in the Annapurna mountain range of Nepal, standing at 7525 meters tall. It is located between Annapurna II and III. Despite its relatively low elevation compared to other peaks in the range, Annapurna IV is a challenging climb due to its steep and rocky terrain but less technical and dangerous compared with the other Annapurna peaks.

Level: Intermediate + to Advanced. Time required: 25 - 33 Days

Himlung Himal 7126M

This is another exciting 7000M mountain peak to climb during the spring season. Comprised of bit snowy conditions when compared to the autumn season, Himlung Himal is an exciting peak to climb where there are fewer teams taking on the challenge of climbing during the spring. With the right amount of team members (4+) this 7000er is one of the safest and easiest objectives to take on.

Level: Intermedaite to +. Time required: 25 - 30 days

No matter which peak you choose, it's important to remember that climbing extreme and technical high-altitude peaks in the Himalayas is a serious undertaking that requires a high level of fitness, technical skill, and mental fortitude. Make sure you have the necessary experiences, mindset, and commitment to physical training before venturing into these daring endeavors. Namas expedition team can help you navigate the complexities of planning your expedition. With the right preparation and mindset, a spring climbing goals expedition in Nepal can be an unforgettable and life-changing experience.

Let’s go take on your spring climbing goals.

Namas Adventure Team

Live Your Story

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2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions - Namas Adventure

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2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions - Namas Adventure

Everest summit 8848M

Tendi Sherpa, at the top of the world. Athlete member of Himlai, wearing Himali 8000M down suit

2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions

If you have read our 2021 best Mountaineering down suits blog post (link) then those suits are still relevant and solid. There have not been major changes on the brands we listed but there are new players in the game and we believe it’s worth checking them out too. The reason, a lot of these suits performed and made it to the summits of Everest, Makalu, or other extremes/death zone altitude peaks. These new suits in the market can definitely be an option for you.

High-quality mountaineering down suits are a must in any extreme or death zone altitude expeditions. Highly specialized suits and only to be worn high in the Himalayas or during arctic crossing adventures. As you would have already spent a lot on your expedition, high-quality gears are another area where a lot of your expenses (About $7K - $10K USD) will be involved. Cutting corners is not an option, as you would not want to mess up your expedition just because you purchased poor-quality gears. You should be ready to face the weather at extremes during mountaineering adventures at 8000M, such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, or even at 7000M Baruntse, Himlung Himal, or Ama Dablam. Your down suit should be versatile to keep you warm, breathable, and easily adjustable. Below are some of the best 2022 down suits we can recommend for any climbers who are preparing for their 7000M - 8000M+ expeditions in the coming years.

HIMALI - 8000M DOWN SUITS

Himali may be the only brand that gives proper recognition to Nepalese guide members such as Tendi Sherpa, Mingma G (Winter K2 2021), Nima Tenji Sherpa, and Pasang Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa. (Pro-team page). It’s about time, Nepalese Sherpa gets other forms of recognition. Our Kudos to the Himali team 👏🏼

Himali 8000M down suit is designed to withstand the extreme conditions encountered on 8,000m peak expeditions. Built by using Pertex® QuantumPro ripstop nylon shell; it is tightly woven for durability and boasts a built-in microporous coating to repel precipitation. This Down Suit is packed with RDS certified 1000 fill-power HyperDry Down for ultimate premium lightweight warmth. With detail-focused their expedition suit features double chest zippers that work together to stop the wind, keeping this down suit highly functional without adding unneeded weight. The use of bright contrasting color designs helps you to stand out and be seen. It is truly built for the highest and harshest conditions on Earth.

  • 1000 Fill Power RDS Certified HyperDRY™ Down

  • Pertex® Pro

  • Windproof & Waterproof

  • Integrated stuff sack in the left-hand pocket 

  • Eco-DWR coating

  • Water Expanding Thread 

  • Fleece Lined Front Pockets

  • YKK® Zippers

  • Internal Mesh Pockets

  • Large Hood Lip is designed to protect against wind and snow

  • Adjustable Wrist Cuffs

  • Fully Seam Taped

Feathered friends - Expedition Down Suit

Made in Seattle, Washington Feathered friends have been in designing and making expedition down suits for 25 years. The best feature is their down suits are made to order and customizable (3-4 weeks). Their expedition Suit has been the down suit of choice by the world’s foremost mountain athletes and made it to the top of many 8,000m peaks and extensively in the North and South poles. Balancing warmth, weight, and durability, the Expedition Suit is built to defend against the earth’s worst conditions.

  • 900+ Fill Goose Down

  • Waterproof, breathable Pertex® Shield® XT

  • Tuck-stitched/baffled construction

  • Dual zipper front entry

  • Drop seat rainbow zipper

  • Adjustable internal suspender system

  • Leg zips

  • Two internal water bottle pockets

  • Reinforced knees, seat, shoulders and sleeves

  • Articulated arms

  • Napoleon style zippered pockets

  • Two insulated chest cargo pockets

  • Fully adjustable hood

  • D-ring mitt clips

  • Velcro adjustable cuff

We have all seen Millet’s amazing 8000M expedition boots and it’s time we explore their 8000M down suits too. Made with 800 RDS goose down, and ultra thermal protection Millet’s trilogy MPX down suit is built to endure harsh conditions and is a robust expedition suit. The reinforced knees and seat are built to withstand abrasion whilst the functional zip systems including a back opening and two-way zipper at the front allow it to be worn during the full length of your expedition. With large zippers and an adjustable hood, this suit is both helmet and oxygen mask compatible.

  • High protection for expeditions. Knees and buttocks reinforced

  • Delivered with storage pouch

  • Inner support waistband

  • Front fastening with two-way zip, with a large underplacket for thermal protection

  • Zipped drop seat system under wide insulated flap

  • Adjustable at the waist and cuffs

  • Capacious helmet hood, adjustable, oxygen mask-compatible

  • 2 large interior pockets

  • 4 big zipped pockets

  • Cargo pocket on thigh

Everest outfit - 8000M Khang-ri Summit suit

Born, made/tested in Nepal, the Everest outfit Khang-RI summit suit is another expedition suit that was worn by Everest ice fall doctors and route setters. Kami Rita Sherpa (26th Everest Summitier, pictured above) who lead the 2022 spring Everest/Lhotse expedition team to fix the rope can vouch for this made in Nepal suit. If they pro’s can vouch for it and have been tested rigorously then we surely can have our confidence on this suit.

Details are not mentioned on their website. Please contact Everest Outfit for any details.

Montane expedition suits rather come in a 2 piece system. Their expedition jacket and salopettes have been worn by climbers like Jon Gupta to the summit of Everest. Designed for use in the most extreme environments on earth, the Apex 8000 Down Jacket has been developed in conjunction with expedition leading mountaineers and tested in high altitudes of 8000M+. Filled with 500g of the highest quality water-resistant goose down within a box walled construction. With the additional water-resistance of PrimaLoft® insulation in key areas, there is no compromise to functionality or features on this piece of survival gear.

The expedition suits listed are some of the additional down suits we believe interested climbers should explore after all it all comes down to personal preferences once we know that these suits have been tested and worn by climbers during their expedition. Expedition suits are not updated every year like other clothing lines. What should matter is its performance at extremes and you can be confident in the 2021 and 2022 expedition down suits that we have listed in our blogpost. After utility and then it comes down to the brand you prefer, colors, styles, sustainability values, and reviews.

Conclusion

Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With adventure brands innovating and developing high-quality down suits you have more options now. We have listed (2021 and 2022) some of the most famous down suits out there in the market today. We cannot stress this enough quality (highest) matters. This is the last place on earth where you would not have adequate clothing gear. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes so you’ll need the best of the best which are listed above. Also, we highly recommend you read our 2021 mountaineering down suit blogpost. (Link)

Which mountaineering down suit will you buy for your upcoming extreme expedition? Please comment below :)

Suit up. Climb on.

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Mountain expeditions in Nepal during the autumn season - Namas Adventure

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Mountain expeditions in Nepal during the autumn season - Namas Adventure

Baruntse expedition camp 1

Barutnse expedition camp 1 6100M

MOUNTAIN EXPEDITIONS IN NEPAL DURING THE AUTUMN SEASON

Planning your next 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M mountain expeditions in Nepal during the Autumn season?

September - November (autumn in Nepal) is another best time to plan your Himalayan adventures. After the spring headlines of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu stories, autumn awaits to write new chapters and records in other Himalayan peaks.

p.s. - Everest or Lhotse expedition is not organized during the autumn season. Why do you ask? There is the financial side with almost no teams to cover up for Khumbu icefall doctors fees and the weather window is generally very short.

Manaslu 8163M (Late August - September) and Ama Dablam 6810M (October - November) attract the majority of the climbers but the way we see it there are other amazing peaks that can be climbed and explored. Here are our suggestions

7000M Expeditions

Baruntse Expedition 7129M

Remote, Raw, and Rugged. Semi-technical climb in nature, Baruntse peak is one of the 7000er mountains that is accessible to climb during autumn. The knife ridge to the summit is not for the faint-hearted. Perfect 7000M expedition that gives you a solid feel of proper mountaineering (classic and alpine style) and best of all there aren’t many climbers. No traffic and one we love taking upon.

Join us here during autumn climbs (October - November)

Himlung Himal Expedition

Himlung Himal final summit ridge

A classic 7000er climb in the Annapurna region. Remote, safer, accessible, and less technical with a high chance of summit success. Expect some long climbing days, particularly on summit day. A moderate amount of teams are attempting Himlung during the autumn season.

Join us for Himlung Himal 7126M expedition (September - October - November) every year.

annapurna iv

Annapurna IV 7525M

ANNAPURNA IV 7525M

Breaking above the 7500M zone, Annapurna IV 7527M is the perfect mountaineering objective for climbers who do not want to avoid crowds/traffic to prepare for their Everest or other 8000M peak expeditions. Annapurna IV is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna II 7937M/26040FT on the western side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the eastern face. The climbing route has fewer objective dangers and is relatively a semi-technical climb.

Far away from the sight of Everest and if you want to have a feel of the classic mountaineering expedition and raw-pristine moments then the far west expedition to Putha Hiunchuli 7246m in Nepal surely won’t disappoint.

You are a pro-seasonal high altitude skier and want to up your shredding game? This peak provides you with a perfect line. We venture into Putha Hiunchuli every 2 to 3 years. Check out our next departure dates to Putha Hiunchuli on our page.

8000M Expeditions

Manaslu 8163M

Manaslu expedition, true summit 8163M

Manaslu true summit 8163m

Manaslu, the mountain of spirit, is the most climbed 8000M+ mountain during the Autumn season. Now with the true summit finally becoming clear to all the climbers, the final 100M traverse to the summit does not get easier. Manaslu is also considered one of the easiest mountains at 8000M level.

We organize a Manaslu expedition every season, join our ever so small and fun-loving team, not to forget to the true summit.

Dhaulagiri 8167M

Approaching Dhaulagiri 8167M

Located in the central west of Nepal, Dhaulagiri 8167 M mountain is another 8000er expedition that is organized mostly during the autumn season. Dhaulagiri attracts a handful of climbers during the autumn season. This is the world’s lucky 7th highest mountain.

Check out 8000M expedition pages for upcoming Dhaulagiri expeditions.

Kanchenjunga 8586M

Kanchenjunga 8586M

Mount Kanchenjunga 8586M is the final 8000M on the eastern flanks of the Himalayan belt. It sits right on the border of Nepal and India (Sikkim). A handful of expeditions are organised every year and some summits have been recorded during autumn season too.

6000M Expeditions

Ama Dablam 6810M

After the Manaslu climb, almost 90% of the team is focused on the Ama Dablam. Be it to summit this peak or to strategize with next season’s Everest climb. Either way, expect a decent crowd of climbers at Ama Dablam.

Join us at Ama Dablam every autumn and possibly during early winter too. For the ones that can brave the cold.

Cholatse 6440M expedition, Nepal

Climbing the ridge to Cholatse camp 2

If you want to escape the gatherings of climbers at Ama Dablam and instead climb an equally challenging or may even be a tougher peak in the Khumbu region then Cholatse is a perfect mountain to climb. Do not underestimate this mountain because it does not boast higher but the climbing routes are second to none. Climbing on a long exposed knife-edge ridge and climbing ice headwalls are some amazing feats to take on at Cholatse.

Plenty of crux and not forget the ever visible Gokyo valley during your entire climbing period. Join us at Cholatse every year during the autumn season.

Note - With Everest/Lhotse expedition not operating during the autumn season, most of the certified guides (350 - 400) are not occupied and are raring to go and help climbers achieve their dream adventures in other mountain peaks.

Since autumn is another big season to achieve your dream climbs in Nepal, are you planning any of the above-mentioned mountaineering adventures? We organize, all-inclusive expeditions during the autumn season and would love to welcome you onboard our teams. Unlike others, we organize a team of max 8 small and a compact teams, which enables us to plan swiftly and have an intimate group during our expeditions.

Join us on our 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M expeditions during autumn in any given year. Let’s go on your dream adventures.

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Climbing your first 8000M mountain peak - Namas Adventure

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Climbing your first 8000M mountain peak - Namas Adventure

Which 8000M Mountain peak should I first aim for?

Which is the easiest, accessible, and safest 8000M peak to climb first?

What should my first ideal 8000M peak climb be?

Which 8000M should be my first challenge?

When considering an 8000M mountain peak expedition, it is important to have the right experience and preparation. Before attempting any 8000M peak, we recommend that climbers have completed at least two 6000M peak expeditions, such as Lobuche East 6119M, Island Peak 6189M, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua or Chulu West 6419M, as well as at least one expedition to a peak of 7000M or higher, such as Baruntse 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M, or Putha Hiunchuli 7246M. These expeditions will provide valuable experience and understanding of what it takes to be successful at high altitudes, as well as the physical and mental demands of long and challenging days in the mountains.

With that said, it is important to note that there are no easy or comfortable climbs at 8000M. However, when comparing the 14X8000M peaks, the expeditions listed below are considered entry-level and are generally considered to be less technical and safer options at this altitude

Manaslu 8163M

Manaslu 8163M, is the eighth highest mountain in the world and is considered an introductory 8000M mountain peak. This should be the choice for many climbers, who want to make this their first-ever expedition into 8000M. Granted this expedition sees many climbing teams during the autumn climbing season, this factor makes this expedition relatively safer logistically and with enough team support. There are fewer technical sections and fewer hazards. This has been the most preferred 8000M expedition ever since the Cho-Oyu expedition from the Chinese side has been uncertain and difficult dealing with Chinese authorities.

The lower section (between camp 1 and camp 2) has most of the objective danger and is also prone to avalanches. Make no mistake, all-mountain big or small is prone to these objective dangers. Climbing the true summit of Manaslu is another technical challenge. (Manaslu true summit blogpost link) The last 50M - 60M will have to be traversed on exposed slope sections and the summit can only fit 1-2 climbers at a time. You will need to sharpen your ice climbing and traversing climbing skills. But if you are comfortable with the fore summit then you need not worry about the final 50M - 60M technical climbing challenges on Manaslu.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.

This expedition is considered a must final crucial expedition for the “Road to Everest” expedition goal. Our team organizes Manaslu every year. Join us and let us help you step into 8000M safely and climb a true summit of Manaslu 8163M.

Cho-Oyu 8201M

Cho Oyu 8201M

Cho Oyu 8201M

Cho-Oyu 8201M, the 6th higher peak in the world is another safer mountain and gets its famous tag as the easiest 8000M peak. Located between Nepal and China, this 8000M peak lies 20km away from Mt.Everest. Where the difficulty lies in climbing this peak is complicated rules with Chinese authorities and uncertainties. New commercial routes from the Nepal side are begin tested (Gelje Sherpa team and Pioneer expedition team - 2022 Winter expedition) but the new route from the Nepal side is difficult and exposed. Only 14 people have climbed from Nepal’s side. Should the two team succeed with their expeditions, this will open doors to the Cho-Oyu expedition from Nepal’s side and a perfect alternative to climbing another 8000M peak from the Nepalese side.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.

Teams set up 3 higher camps with several rotations to strategize for the summit push. There are no real technical sections and the objective dangers are very few on the Chinese side of this peak. It is also one of the shorter 8000M expedition and base camp is even accessible by jeep. This makes it one of the most attractive expeditions for interested climbers and there have been well over 1000 ascents on this peak. On the Nepal side, the base camp is far, rugged, and longer compared to the Chinese side. This mountain is also a popular safer choice for high altitude skiers and snowboarders due to low objective risk and good snow conditions. Cho-Oyu 8201M, is mostly preferable to climb during the autumn season.

Our team is assessing situations with Nepal side climb and should the commercial route be tested and declared safer/accessible, we aim to plan the expedition from 2024 Autumn. Join us then

Are you planning your first-ever 8000M expedition? Want to test yourself in the death zone altitude before climbing higher to Mt. Everest or other tougher 8000M mountains? We hope the guidance and suggestion in this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of which 8000M to climb first. The right experience is a must and very important. Not only do inexperience and inadequate preparations hinder your chance of completing the expedition or endanger your life but also put the life of guide members and the team in danger too. Our team can help you prepare in the best way to gain the right experience to complete your dream of the first 8000M peak expedition.

Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼

Namas Adventure Team

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Mount Everest expedition. New route, Nepal South side - Namas Adventure

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Mount Everest expedition. New route, Nepal South side - Namas Adventure

New Proposed Sundari route, Everest Expedition, Nepal.

Legendary French mountaineer, Marc Batard and his team of Nepalese and french climbers have discovered a new route for Everest Expedition. Batard wants to further observe and test this route on his 2022 Spring Everest Expedition (without supplement O2) to see if it is commercially feasible. This alternative new route avoids the most dangerous part of the Nepal side Everest expedition, climbing the Great Khumbu Icefall.

This new route can be started from the village of Gorakshep which is at 5100M and the climbing route falls beneath the Nuptse ridge. The climb starts at an adjacent peak that was unnamed. Batard wanted to pay his homage to his former Sherpa team (Sundari Sherpa), named the peak Sundari Peak 5880M and the route Sundari route. Sundari Sherpa was part of his Everest expedition (1988) member who inspired him to climb Everest and break the speed record of the first ascent in less than 24hrs.

The route then leads to Camp 1 at 6065M, which is above Khumbu Icefall. Batard came up with this new route to find a safer alternative. Avoid the dangers of Khumbu Icefall which is nerve-racking even for experienced climbers. Batard team has fixed new 700M routes with 1000M ropes and 10mm screw blots. The idea is to have via-Ferrata with fixed metal railings, so that Sherpas with a heavy load can use it making it much-much safer compared to the dangerous Khumbu icefall. The team is aiming to fix the remaining 400M to Camp 2 (6400M).

What are your thoughts on this new proposed route which seems much safer, not just for the clients but to Sherpa members too? Please comment below.

We think this is a great alternative and this could even open a possibility for the Autumn Everest expedition. Historically Autumn season is avoided by expedition companies to avoid the dangers of avalanches that come falling from the hanging serac above the icefall.

Even if the Autumn season is not possible, this will give Sherpa’s working in Everest/Lhotse expedition an extra layer of safety when working in the mountains. We wish Batard and his team very best wishes and a safe summit during their 2022 (without supplement O2) expeditions.

God's speed and success. Live Your Story.

Namas Adventure team

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Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure

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Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure

Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit.

The debate ends here.

For years if not decades climbers have been debating about reaching the true summit(4) of Manaslu and where it actually is. Finally this year the drone shot captured by Jackson Groves during his Manaslu expedition made it clear as daylight to the world. His images clear the argument once and for all. Jackson himself mentions in his blog (Journeyera) that he stopped short at the fore summit and did not proceed to the main summit.

Mingma G seen climbing to the main summit. Majority of climbers previously stopped at the fore summit, claiming Manaslu 8163M Summit.

Image by - Jackson Groves (Journeyera)

Mingma G, who set up the fix-rope at the pinnacle snow point of the summit (true summit) along with the Himalayan database claimed that this was only achieved only after 45 years (1976). Others argue otherwise but now we can understand why reaching the true summit which is 20m-25m away from the fore summit (Shelf 2) is such a dangerous challenge to overcome at 8100M+ level.

The last section is very technical and exposed which has to be climbed down a few feet, traversed through steep, snow, and rocky slopes with more than a hundred-meter drop, and is clearly not for any inexperienced climbers.

Manaslu 8163M expedition is considered an introductory 8000M+ expedition to see how non-seasoned climbers handle themselves climbing at the death zone but the last section from the fore summit to the true summit is not for the inexperienced climbers. For one the climb is a very dangerous and technical climb this final section which won’t be able to handle any sort of traffic jams and any form of rescue in between is near to impossible. Only very experienced seasoned climbers who want to stamp their name on the elitist group whose aim to hold records or gather as many summits are advised or if you have several previous climbing experiences (not just 2 or 3) then going up to the real summit is advised. Also, bearing in mind now that the true summit is clear to many, most climbers will be attempting the pinnacle point hence traffic might become an issue in such a small section.

Prior to this year (Autumn 2021), Manaslu 8163M summit has been claimed by many but it turns out only a handful of climbers had been to the main summit. The Tolerance zone concept proposed by Stefan Nestler is particularly interesting. His concept suggests two types of summiteers -

The general summit group: Many who have claimed to be at the summit have gone back home believing that they have been to the true summit. This will definitely come as an annoyance to many but the majority of the climbers who do not care about being in the absolute elite list won’t be back to climb Manaslu just to climb the few last meters.

The elitist summit group: Are the absolutes who make no compromises even to the last stone or snow point at the very top to claim the true summit. These climbers will have to come back to update their summit records.

Moving forward climbers who want to climb Manaslu as an introductory 8000M expedition will have to think really hard and make a sensible decision before venturing further away from the fore summit to the true summit. For the ones who want to be on the elite table list, the debate has ended and the true summit is clear. Operators too will have to be clear about the true summit and fore summit plans.

So, as the debate ends, are you planning to climb Manaslu 8163M in near future? Namas Adventure/Expedition team will be planning our expedition strategy to the true summit. However, to the non-seasoned climbers, the option of climbing the fore summit is still possible with our team.

See you in the mountains.

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 11 other essentials items for Mountaineering expedition: Easy to forget but super useful in the mountains - Namas Adventure

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11 other essentials items for Mountaineering expedition: Easy to forget but super useful in the mountains - Namas Adventure

11 other essentials items for Mountaineering expedition: Easy to forget but super-useful in the mountains

Mountaineering expeditions are tricky and when it comes to packing our gears it never ends. Pack, unpack, repack, re-check tour list and repack again. Wait for a few days and you feel you have missed something or you are wondering how can I make my pack lighter & smaller. So begins the process of organizing it and repacking it again. Our guess is you will never be satisfied with the process.

In this post, we have listed 11 essential items that may not look handy but are super useful during your mountaineering expedition. These items are not super-must and are easy to miss but having them in your pack can make your life a little bit easier during your expedition. Consider it mountain luxury at your disposal, adding a bit of comfort to your expedition.

Lip guards (Yes, more than one) & Sunscreen cream SPF 50, 70, or 100 (Also more than one)

SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays

SPF 100 blocks 99% of UVB ray

Extra socks and gloves

We highly suggest you pack at least 1-2 pairs of expedition socks and gloves. There are days when you don’t feel like doing your laundry and having that extra socks is comfort on its own. Gloves are tricky, great if you don’t loose one, but if you do having that backup pair is key as you won’t be able to climb without your gloves. That we can guarantee and frostbite is not the ideal situation you want to experience.

Cold/warm air Mask regulator

This is one of the tools that we would consider essential for every climber. I It is amazing that many climbers are now attempting higher expeditions above 8000M+ like Everest, Makalu, Manaslu etc without supplement O2. (Kudos to the human potential and one’s motivation of pushing themselves) Or even climbing at 6000ers to 70000ers like Baruntse, Himlung, etc peaks. The air is so thin, dry, and crip cold that it takes a toll on our nose. Gross, it may sound but climbers know the issue of the clogged up nose and trying to get rid of this booger and breathing in cold air which is a struggle on its own. These air mark regulators are a godsend. It helps retain the moisture and regulate the cold air you breathe in to somewhat tolerable and a little warm. These are slowly becoming a must-have choice for many professional climbers. We can recommend two products which are listed below.

Thermos flask with a cup

Super handy when things are flexible and accessible especially when camping in high camps. That sip of warm water or tea is a god send and a booster. Imagine just having a cup when you want to drink water in your camps, the value of it is immense.



Nose/cheek Shielder

olympic-skiers-wear-tape-on-face-today-inline-2-180212.jpg

Nothing fancy here the UV rays from the sun and the cold air might be harsh on your cheeks and nose especially. So taping up can protect it from burning up.

Satellite communicator

Want to give peace of mind to your friends and families during your expeditions? Then satellite communicators are your answer. Garmin and other providers allow you to send messages to your loved ones or audience to keep track of your expeditions. (Works in most of the Himalayas Expeditions) You will have to use their subscription plans to be able to connect to the internet and use the features. The great news is you can use their FREEDOM plan when you are in the mountains and cancel it once you are back home.

Extra batteries, power banks and portable solar panels:

Solar technology keeps advancing and that’s great news for everyone. Highly recommend getting portable solar panels that you can just hang on your bag when juicing up your batteries and devices. Especially when you are in the remote corners of the Himalayas or other mountains, the sun is the only source of energy on clear days so you will want to make the best out of it and recharge all those batteries. Goal Zero makes some amazing portable solar panels and other devices that we can highly recommend for expeditions.

Extra Sunglasses

Nothing is more frustrating than losing or breaking your glasses when climbing in the mountains. Reflections from the sun are harsh and strong or even during gloomy days you must have a pair or even impossible to climb without a good visual. So always have an extra glass as a backup option. Plenty of brands out there but we are in love with JULBO pairs 😍.

Pee bottles

One can only understand the comfort of having a pee bottle when you are inside your tent and the temperature outside is freezing below -10C. Having a pee bottle at your reach is always handy when you do not have to keep getting out into the cold and dark to just your little business. That’s why we consider this, one of the musts.

Pro tip: Comes super handy when you are driving and you don’t have a place to make you wee stop 😅.

Nuts, Bars and Energy gels

You will always need that constant supply of nutrients in any form. Be it in solid-food form or liquid through the water. So having nuts, bars, or energy gels is always handy which are pocketable and easier to carry and just reach out when climbing or just resting. There’s plenty of amazing brands out there in the market. Cliff bars, High5 nutrition, SIS, etc

Wet wipes

Showers are a luxury during expeditions and it’s hard to maintain a constant flow of water at some locations or even non-existent. Wet wipes are your answers then. For the most part during the long mountain expedition, climbers understand that they may not be able to take shower for an extended period of time but we can adapt. Take a wet wipe shower (at least that’s what we call it) is a perfect alternative.

Do you have an item that you think is a must, on long expeditions that makes your life a little bit comfortable in the mountains? Please comment below.

And if you are planning mountain adventure in the Himalayas then our team is here at your service. We have yearly 6000M peak expeditions like Mera peak or Chulu West peak for beginners and experienced level climbers. 7000ers such as Baruntse 7129M Peak or Himlung Himal 7134M peak for the explorers or challenge seekers who want to climb higher peaks. 8000ers such as Manaslu 8163M or Makalu 8485M for the ones that want to get into the death zone and summit the Big E, Mt. Everest.

Explore More. Go.

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Namas Adventure team

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Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy - Namas Adventure

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Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy - Namas Adventure

Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy

Everest Base Camp - Expedition moments

The Everest, as in the mountaineering, is the greatest goal of climbing adventures. As a mountaineering challenge, it has attracted people to come and explore this breathtaking Himalayan mountain. The most desirable achievement accomplishing here is to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest 8848M.

There is a system that every Everest climber should follow to increase the likelihood of success. It’s based on experience, planning and skill but there are other factors too such as clear weather window, sheer persistence and training. Our expert team of Everest expedition strategists take all the factors involved and build a plan that ensures your dream becomes a reality, not just once but time and time again. Everest results from the combination of a great strategy and a system. If you decide to join an Everest expedition, you will be dealt with professional guides who will do everything they can to ensure you reach the summit. We give you a structured game plan to assure that you’ll get to base camp and one day, to the summit of Mount Everest.

Everest Base Camp 5346M

We take a slow trek through the world's iconic Everest base camp trek, acclimatising and getting the perspective of the local region. Our first goal will be to summit Lobuche east as our acclimatisation peak. After that our team heads towards our final camp to settle in Everest base camp.

If you want to invite your family or friends to join you until Everest Base camp or Lobuche East Peak climb (Beginner/Intermediate) then you can find more information on the link below or please mail us to make those arrangements.

For more information on Everest Base Camp (Click here)

Lobuche East 6119M climb for training and acclimatisation

Lobuche East 6119M

We use Lobuche East peak as our acclimatisation and training peak. Mount Lobuche East 6119M is another popular 6,000M climbing peak in Nepal. This peak will provide us a perfect starting point to refresh our skills, climb a 6000M+ peak to get our body acclimated to high altitude, and enjoy the climb with our fellow expedition members. As this will be the group’s first climb together, this will give our guides a better understanding of where each climber are in terms of confidence, fitness and skills.

We will be using base camp and high camp before we summit Lobuche East mountain and head back to base camp and rest for a night there before we move towards Everest BC.

Everest Base Camp 5346M

Everest base camp

Preparation will have already begun even before the arrival of climbers at the base camp. Our base camp manager and the team will have already set up our individual camps, storage camps, comms-media stations, toilet-showers, kitchen-dining tents, and Namas base camp HQ for all other briefing purposes.

Puja Ceremony

All of our expeditions only begin after a Puja ceremony. Where a dedicated Lama Guru (head Monk) will conduct the ceremony. He will recite the prayers to The Mountain gods asking for well-being, safety, safe passage and a successful expedition. All climbers will be requested to take part in the ceremony as this is very important for the guides and your climbing gears will also be blessed during the puja.

Training at Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall. (Ladders, fixed lines training) 5486M / 17998ft

Cross glaciers- Everest Expeditions

After settling at base camp, this is where all the climbing team will reside for the next 40+ days. Climbing ladders to cross the great Khumbu icefall is the first real objective/technical challenge when climbing Everest. So, we focus a large portion of our training on getting used to crossing these ladders. Another part of our training will be climbing on the glaciers which are near to our base camp. Here we will further refine our skills by climbing vertical ice walls using fixed ropes and ice axe. We do our best to mimic the environment in the icefall and train walking on the step ladder step by step. By the time we start our way to climb Khumbu icefall to climb up to camp 1, all climbers will have a good understanding of crossing the ladders and will also be guided personally in real-time.

How many rotations: Each time we go from base camp to Camp 1 we will have to cross Khumbu ice fall.

When will climbers sleep here: No, we do not sleep here.

Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)

Camp 1 Everest Expedition

Camp 1 Everest Expedition

Camp 1 is will be setup once Khumbu Icefall challenge is crossed. The camp is setup below the Nuptse in an icy and snowy surface. The route gets even from here onwards up to camp 2. This will be the first area where climbers will have to share tents and accommodate in an alpine environment.

How many rotations: 2 rotations

When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly.

Camp 2 (6400M/20997ft)

Hike from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a fairly even one out of all the climb during the entire expedition. The route is a pass sitting right between Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse face right in front when climbers hike.

How many rotations: 2 rotation

When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and when descending back from the summit.

Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M / 23622ft+)

Camp 3 sits at a steep section of Lhotse's face. This climb and will be one of the most strenuous uphill climbs using fixed-line ropes from camp 2 to camp 3. Camps here are one of the most dangerous ones as they are set up in small ledges/pockets where it is suitable. We ask all our climbers to make sure their safety ropes are tied onto the main safety ropes as there have been many falls and incidents, particularly during nighttime.

How many rotations: 2 rotation

When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and possibly when descending back from the summit if they are too tired to make it to camp 2.

South Col (Camp 4) (7906M / 25938ft)

This will the final camp before heading to the summit. The camp sits at 7906M just 100M below the Death Zone area. Climbers will be using oxygen bottles when they are in their tents as the air is very thin here. From the South Col to the summit it is about 1.7-1.9 miles and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. We will begin our summit bid just before midnight with a steep climb up the Southside of Everest. Upon reaching the Balcony at 27,500 feet, climbers turn West up the ridge to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step onto the Summit Ridge, and then to the summit.

How many rotations: None

When will climbers sleep here?: 1 night

Summit of Everest (8848.86M / 29031.69 ft)

Hillary ridge - Everest expedition

Hillary ridge - Everest expedition

Our aim will be to stand at the summit around 7 - 8 am in morning. The climb to the summit will be one of the hardest and toughest part of the entire expedition. As we leave the south col, first we will have to climb a steep hill about 30-40 degrees to the balcony of the south side of Everest. From there with the support of fixed-line rope we jummar and ascend climbing on the southeast ridge to the south summit. Here we rest and replace our new O2 cylinder and after regaining our energy, climb to cornice traverse, then to Hillary's step, and finally reach the summit or roof of the world, Everest. For most climbers, once they climb the Hillary step it will roughly take 30min to reach the summit of Everest.

Once on the summit, we rejoice our moment, celebrate take pictures and soak it all in before we gather our moment and get ready to head back down to our camps. The duration of your summit depends upon how long the good weather window will remain open. Remember on any mountain climb the summit is only halfway done. Heading down is another dangerous part there have been many incidents. We slowly make our way through the same route to South Col camp with our aim to stop at Camp 2. The entire climb will be about 10 - 16 hours depending on the fitness level of climbers.

Are planning to climb and summit to the roof of the World one day? We run expedition to Everest every year (2023) taking all your climbing personal needs into accounts as well as implementing responsible and sustainable strategy in our expedition strategy. Our team is here to assist you in making your dream of climbing Everest being safe with tons of fun and being responsible & sustainable during our expeditions. Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to inquire.

Live Your Dream. Live Your Story

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Manaslu expedition (Experiences, fitness and skills) - Namas Adventure

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Manaslu expedition (Experiences, fitness and skills) - Namas Adventure

Manaslu 8163M Expedition

Experiences, fitness and skills

Manaslu 8163M Expedition

Manaslu 8163M Expedition

What experiences do I need to have to climb Manaslu?

Climbing any 8000M peak is no joke and climbing at those heights should definitely give you chills and excitement. At this level, there is no such thing as an easy climb. Manaslu is no different. Although this is considered one of the most accessible 8000M+ peaks, climbing via a standard route does not come easy and previous high-altitude climbing experiences are a must. This peak does come with a substantial set of challenges and objective dangers such as bergschrund, steep vertical climb, avalanche-prone, etc. Like any other big mountaineering project you must be very-very comfortable scrambling, traversing, and climbing on steep rocky (or icy, during spring) sections, jumaring on fixed-line ropes, climbing with gears, descending on fixed-line, and bearing crisp cold climbing conditions.

Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences

At least 1 X 7000M+ peak expedition and several 4000M - 6000M+ expeditions with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. Consider yourself ready and prepared to step into 8000M peaks with Manaslu as your starting 8000M+ peak. Manaslu Expedition is considered an essential experience before embarking higher on to Everest or K2 expeditions. Manaslu expedition attracts a lot of high-altitude climbing lovers. The general term is any semi-technical to technical peaks that are higher and have longer ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending sections. These experiences do qualify you to take on Manaslu.

Crossing crevasse using ladder during Manaslu Expedition

Crossing crevasse using ladder during Manaslu Expedition

Fitness Level - 5

We have graded fitness level 5 for the Mt. Manalsu expedition. Exceptional level of all-round fitness coupled with the ability to cope and resist at the highest altitude. An exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required with a high degree of mental toughness. A resistance to extreme weather conditions over extended periods of time. Heavy loads over multiple days may need to be carried. Previous experience is highly crucial in order to prepare your body to endure a high level of mental and physical toughness from both altitude and terrain.

The difficult issue is how you train for such exceptional conditions. Hard work will be required to get to that fitness level. For a General fitness indication, climbers should be able to run half marathon to marathon or be able to cycle for 4 -5 hours. If you prefer hiking, you should be able to carry a load of 25 - 30 kilograms and hike for 3 to 4 hours. Being able to complete a triathlon is a great indication that you are physically at your optimum best.

Good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.

Skills to be learned

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know. These fundamental skills listed below should be of second nature to you when climbing.

  1. Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.

  2. Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.

  3. Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.

  4. Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

  5. Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4. (See our - Alpine grading for reference)

Thrill of climbing Manaslu

Thrill of climbing Manaslu

Climbers joining Manaslu 8163M expedition must have previous high altitude experiences and solid knowledge of various climbing skills. We recommend climbers have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.

With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Manaslu now more than ever is now an achievable objective with a higher success rate for climbers who don’t consider themselves pros. Thanks to the effective guidance of Sherpa leaders of Nepal. Some of our IFMGA Nepalese guides consider this peak one of their favorite climb. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience, you will also need to commit to your physical training like any other expeditions.

Challenge yourself.

Go. Live Your Story

Are you planning to climb 🏔Manaslu 8163M in Nepal? If your dream is to climb this extremely beautiful and challenging peak in Nepal and progress to higher 7000M to 8000M+ mountains then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure expeditions. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.

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Manaslu 8163M Expedition strategy. Base Camp to Summit - Namas Adventure

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Manaslu 8163M Expedition strategy. Base Camp to Summit - Namas Adventure

Manaslu Expedition, Nepal

Manaslu Expedition, Nepal

Manaslu 8163M Expedition strategy.

Base Camp to Summit

Manaslu 8163M expedition is one of the most thrilling and accessible mountain to climb at 8000M+ level. Manaslu and Cho Oyu are the two most climbed 8000M mountains. A perfect mountain to climb before embarking on the ultimate dream of summiting Everest.

Base Camp 4800M to Camp 1 (5600M - 5700M)

Our expedition begins with 🚁 helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Sama Gaun 3690M on the third day of the expedition. After acclimatising for a day in the village we begin our hike to Manaslu base camp 4800M where our camps will already have been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa & porter teams. Preparations will have already be done months before and base camp teams will be ready to welcome clients where they will enjoy, eat, rest, relax have fun. This will be the home for next 25-28 days. We will ascend by the North-East Face, utilizing 4 camps along the way. Next, after few days of acclimatisation, puja ceremony and training day our group will head to camp 1. Climbers will hike through rugged uphill path, that takes them through moraine and crevassed glacier and finally to camp 1. The views from base camp is breathtaking with Himalayas dominating the views all around.

Camp 1 (5600M - 5700M) - Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M)

The climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a strenuous and hard climb where the team ascends moderate-angled snow slopes on the lower reaches, with a short steep slope above Camp 1. Climbing through steep slopes requires your full focus and it is expected to take anywhere from 5 - 7 hours or more until you arrive at camp 2 at 6300M -6400M. Camp 2 treats with you with another breathtaking surrounding Himalayan peaks. From here you could feel the surrounding mountains are really close to you.

Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M) - Camp 3 (6900M)

The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is mountain straight forward, requiring steady progress on a vast some snowy slopes, and one short but steep section just before arriving at camp 3. This day, we will be climbing for 4 - 5 hours.

Camp 3 (6900M) - Camp 4 (7300M)

Camp 3 to camp 4 is another steep vertical slope climbing day. Relying on the fixed ropes and your crampons to get you up to 7300M. Expect to climb for around 6 - 7 hours on this part of the climb. We will be doing a frequent rotation of higher camps to lower camps to get well acclimatized before making the final push to the summit.

Camp 4 (7300M) - Summit 8163M to Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M)

The move from camp 4 to the summit is not as technical between the camps, but longer and requires more steady progress over the flowing snowy/icy slope. The views all around on this section are as incredible as climbers will be heading towards the 8000M altitude. After around 6 - 8 hours of climb, climbers will arrive at the ‘false summit’ where a lot of the operators end their summit bid but Namas Expedition Sherpa team will always aim to fix the rope to the “true summit” which is the highest point for Manaslu 8163M. This requires meticulous planning and decision making due to the unstable nature of the ice/snow surface at the summit.

Descending the mountain is quick and straight forward but equal care is required as clients will be super tired after the summit. Making it to the summit is halfway, so our objective will be to reach camp 2 safely by afternoon or early evening hours. The very next day, we then descend from camp 2 to basecamp, which should take 3 - 4 hours. Our base camp team will be ready to welcome us there with summit achievement cheers and joy. After resting for a bit we can enjoy our much deserved warm meal prepared by our chef. The way back home involves the same trek back down into Sama Gaun, followed by a night at the village before catching the helicopter back to Kathmandu. After arriving in Kathmandu climbers will have another two nights for well-deserved celebrations, showers and rest before departing back to their home.

As climbers joining Manaslu expedition will already (must) have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.

With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up, you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.

Challenge yourself.

Go. Live Your Story

Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 8000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.

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Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Namas Adventure

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Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition

Manaslu BC 4800M

Manaslu BC 4800M

Manaslu Expedition is considered a must climb for anyone seeking to climb Everest or other challenging 8000M+ peaks in the world. Crowning itself the eighth highest peak in the world, this mountaineering expedition is suitable for anyone with 6000M - 7000M+ climbing experience. This is a perfect expedition to experience not only the challenges of climbing an extreme altitude peak but also experience the death zone altitude climb. The climbing route is technical and strenuous with fixed rope line support available to reach the summit. We expect all climbers to be extremely fit for any 7000M - 8000M+ expedition.

During climbing days, Sherpa guides leaders from several groups work together to set up the ropes. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snowy surfaces with an exposed section past 6600M+ all the way to the summit. Be ready for long duration of climbing on steep vertical section, crossing through crevasse and jumar/climbing/walking on steep sections for long hours. This is definitely a must climb for any climbers seeking high altitude climbing adventure if you particularly dream to climb Mt.Everest.
*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.

We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Manaslu 8163M climbing expedition.

1. When is the best time to climb Manaslu?

Manaslu is best suited to climb at the end of Monsoon season in Nepal. (3rd week of August to October)

Note - Manaslu is one of the most popular climbs at 8000M+ level in Nepal after Everest. You can expect several teams to attempt the climb in any given year.

2. How much does the Manaslu expedition cost? What does it include?

With Namas Adventure team, the Manaslu expedition costs $18250 P/P (Heli charter Ktm - Samagaon - Ktm) and $17500 P/P (trek to Samagaon and back via helicopter to Ktm from Samagoan). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their expedition and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

  1. IMFGA/NMA certified Guide leader

  2. $1000 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)

  3. Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

  4. 🚁 Helicopter charter to Nearest village (Sama Gaon) from Base camp and 🚁 helicopter charter back to Kathmandu after you summit and return to base camp. (clients who choose this option)

  5. 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. ( Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)

  6. Head chef and kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )

  7. 2 X Oxygen cylinder (Additional Cylinder $500 per O2 cylinder)

  8. 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

  9. All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

  10. All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

  11. Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas

  12. 60 kgs personal weight

  13. Meals at higher camps

  14. Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts

  15. Burners and expedition equipment

  16. Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/GPS tracking system

  17. Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

  18. Lodge accommodation during the trek

  19. Porters per guest

  20. Arrival pick-up and departure

  21. Internal flights

  22. Basic First aid kit

  23. Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

3. What experience do climbers need to climb Manaslu? Are guides necessary to climb Manaslu?

Experiences - Previous high altitude (6000M - 7000M+) alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Manaslu. If you have climbed peaks above 6000M+ such as Chulu West 6419M, Lobuche East & Island Peak and 7000er peaks such as Baruntse Peak 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M,and Mt. Nun 7135M sets you up perfectly for the Manaslu expedition. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal and can be anywhere else in the world. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience in hiking/climbing/traversing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Must be comfortable and proficient in using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. You should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, and basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.

On most major expeditions in Nepal for the majority of the time, climbers will have to rely on their jumaring skill and strength (ascending) and rappeling/abseiling skills to safely descend down the mountains. Your strength and endurance to continue for a long duration are very key for any climbers to complete this expedition.

Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Manaslu Expedition, you will have to go through a registered local company. For intermediate-level or even professional experience-level climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The standard climbing route does have several objective dangers/challenges and there are chances of avalanche, there for local knowledge and guidance is super key on any major expeditions.

If you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.

4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for the climbing Manaslu expedition?

On high-altitude climbing trips it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.

On the Manaslu expedition, we have strategized our itinerary with 4 high camps and several rotations between camps 1, 2, and 3 so that climbers are well acclimatized, recovered, and stronger to complete the expedition successfully.

More details are on our Manaslu climbing strategy.

5. What training is required/experience for Manaslu climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

Manaslu climbing is by no means an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 6000M - 7000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the mountains. We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Kettle bell strength + endurance training twice or three times a week are also recommended to build muscular endurance. We advise you to schedule your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

6. How hard is Manaslu climbing expedition?

Manaslu expedition is graded at 4E in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).

We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 35 days of alpine climbing days with contingency days in case of bad weather. The climb will demand every ounce of your fitness and awareness. Breathing will be challenging but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.

When we depart from the base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. Once staged up and set up at base camp the climbers prepare here for the next 35 days of climbing and summiting Manaslu. Once setting off from camps to camps Manaslu has some of the longest and uphill steep climbs. Climbing route is in a very exposed area and there are significant dangers of crevasses opening and avalanches. Ladders are set up by guide members from several expedition team and it is best to always follow the instructions of your guide when climbing.

All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges. 

7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Manaslu climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Manaslu expedition climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-30c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Mountaineering Boots for Manaslu Expedition

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

8. What types of foods are available during Manaslu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the Base camp and during your climbing days foods are carried up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food as our chef will prepare energy-dense delicacies in our base camp kitchen and all you have to do is enjoy your meal, recover and get stronger. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

9. What trip insurance will I need for Manaslu Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Manaslu region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon. 

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts and a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim.

There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

10. Next climbing goals after Manaslu Expedition climbing

If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.

1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here

Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.

2. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal

Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition

Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition

3. Makalu 8463M, Nepal

Manaslu Expedition is one of the exciting 8000M mountain climbing expedition in Nepal. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Manaslu climbing journey. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Manaslu Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.

Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

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