Ever since I have voiced my want to trek Everest, everyone has been asking me one question. Is the airport and plane ride safe? I think the tag “World's most extreme and dangerous airport” (The History Channel, 2010), has given Lukla Airport a negative connotation that there are accidents every day or every month. This is not the case at all, but one can see why the calamitous perception.

On paper, Lukla airport is the perfect recipe for what could be a knuckle-biting near disaster. Only certified carriers (STOL) and pilots can take this 40-minute long flight, during which you will find yourself dodging mountains and flying through thick, white smothering of the surrounding clouds. With the unpredictable weather and no navigation aids, pilots must use their visual flying skills, which as I mentioned are at times blurred, and their empirical knowledge of the area’s terrain.

Reaching the end, you are faced with a beautiful view of the small, colourful town of Lukla at an altitude of 9,500ft, perfectly ready to have your trekking boots on the ground. But here what you see may not be the best for your blood pressure. Here, it’s time to find another reasoning behind the infamous name, that is, the relatively tiny runway. Sitting at only 1,729-foot long, a very tiny strip in comparison to Heathrow’s 12,802-ft, this timorously tiny runway is coupled with the fact at one end of the runway is a steep cliff with a 2,000-foot drop and at the other is a solid, stone wall. The plane either lands, or falls off the cliff or hits the wall.

However, as apprehensive as what I have described above may make one feel, the reality is quite anticlimactic. Given good weather, most flight activity happens between six and nine a.m., and during peak season there can be up-to 30-50 flights a day. While the airport only handles 4 planes at a time, it’s a quick switch over to take the waiting trekkers back to Kathmandu and before you know it the planes are flying back already in the next 10-15 min. Furthermore, given Nepal depends heavily on tourism, especially in the Everest and Annapurna region, and flight safety is given the utmost importance. It is carefully followed at both regional and governmental levels and I can say by experience that they don't take the flights lightly for Lukla flights. The bummer tends to come in the only one other form, an externality which I advise all travellers to be aware of. The biggest problem is often the temperamental weather.

Sitting at such high an altitude and in such vigorous terrain, the sky which looked clear a few minutes ago, can suddenly change with winds blowing swathes of fog and clouds obscuring visibility. At such moments, for safety all flights will be stopped, and should the weather persist, ending in cancellations. This is why, although flights are scheduled to run from 6am to 5pm, I say most flight activity takes place between 6-9am. I encourage all Everest trekkers to have a contingency plan in case weather turns bad and there is cancellation of flights. We recommend an extra 2-4 days to allow for flight cancellations and re-bookings or extending your budget to include helicopter expenses.

If you decide to charter a private helicopter, then it will be $1500-2500 for 5 - 6 people (the higher margin to get from Kathmandu to Lukla). When flights are cancelled, as is so often the case with later flights, there is also a good chance of unused seats in the helicopter flights and you can ask your tour company or helicopter companies to query whether there would be space for a smaller party (1-3 seats) to join ad hoc. It saves costs, lessens wasteful use of time and resources for all parties involved and we recommend speaking with your tour provider to see if and how they can help you in such a situation. In the case of cancelled airplane flights, you are entitled to the refund so be sure to query this with your tour company, or the airlines if you didn’t use one.

Third-party tour operators are imperatively valuable in such situations as their network allows them to get up-to-date information from both airports involved and search for the contingency flights. A recent case caused much confusion when, although the weather be sunny and clear in Lukla, the airport closed. It turned out the route from Kathmandu to Lukla was turbulent and unsafe to fly, but at Lukla one couldn’t see that far into the distance. A wide lens is needed when dealing with this route.

While one can after gaining experience trek the Everest route by themselves, the stress involved in getting to the starting and ending point of Lukla, arranging back-up flights, especially if you don’t speak the language, is exponential. Along with the aforementioned, perhaps “World’s most stressful…” is also a fair description. Tour operators and their teams are highly experienced to deal with unexpected situations, and the reason why it is still rare for people to make this trek on their own. At Namas, we have staff members who watch the route on both ends as well as partnerships with airlines and helicopter providers to ensure hassle-free flights. If you are planning to go to Everest base camp (click here), we have several dates announced for 2018. We take care of all your accommodations, flights, flight transfers, local Sherpa guide and porter service and meals during all trekking days.  

Nevertheless, for those wilder ones, if you are planning a solo trip, here are some pro tips

• Price one way: $160 - $175(one way) Kathmandu – Lukla and it is best to choose an early flight.

• Speak to helicopter providers working in this area.

• Return flights to Kathmandu - Confirm your ticket with your airlines a day before in Lukla. This is very important or else the operators assume that you won’t be taking that flight and will add other passengers to your seat. Speak to your hotels or tea houses staff in Lukla, most of them knows the airlines staff and will help you confirm your return tickets.

• Peak season: April/May (Spring) is very busy with mountaineers and most of the tickets are booked for mountain climbers and big groups and October(Autumn) is another busy month. It can get very hard booking flights during these months, so plan early and reserve early (or you will have to count on your luck :D).

• TIMS and Everest region permit is a must. (link)

• If you hire a porter at the Lukla airport, please pay them $18-$20 a day. The real wage is much less as they will be using this daily rate to pay for housing and food along the route. (Be a responsible traveller)

• Alternative routes to Everest region, 14 - 16 hours vehicle ride to Jiri from Kathmandu which adds extra 2 days to your Everest itinerary.

If you have any more questions regarding your trekking plans for Everest, please do let us know below in the comment box or in our email namas@namasadventure.com. 

Happy Adventure.

Written by - Bisesh ( Founder / Namas Adventure )

Edited by : Shanti Rai ( Namas team member )